Wednesday, January 30, 2019
Springfield, VA (USA)
[work - went home and changed - drove to St. Raymond of Penafort for the Arlington Diocese BLA Appreciation Reception - arrived at 1815 and stayed until 2045 - met lots of nice people]
Sunday, January 27, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip B - Day 6
Last day of the unexpected hiking getaway... Up early (0600) in Elizabethton, packed and cleaned, ate breakfast at the hotel and got on the road (0800). Drove to Erwin, parked at Indian Grave Gap on TN-395 (same place as yesterday) and started SOBO at 0850. Temps started in the high 20s and warmed into the 30s during the leg so I only needed two layers. The sun never really came out but there was good visibility throughout the morning. I saw individual footprints in the snow but never saw people or animals. For most of the section, I did hear a woodpecker loudly working away somewhere above me. The snow was slippery and there were several places where the trail may have had two inches of flat space for a footfall before dropping precipitously into the valley below. The section skirted the midline of several 3.5K hills but I only really crossed one. My hike took me around the inside of a huge letter “C”, with a constant view of Erwin. In other words, I could see the start and end point of the section for the entire day. The trail was slightly downhill on the outbound leg and I made good time to my turnaround point, Curley Maple Gap Shelter. Headed back immediately but had more trouble on the slippery snow-covered trail, slowing me down significantly. The distance was comparable to yesterday (~8.5) but it took me almost 30 minutes longer (finished at 1205). Changed clothes at nearby Rock Creek Recreation Area and then hit the road for home. Got on I-26 and headed north. Had some good phone calls with Erin and Eileen. Lowlight: almost run off the road by a semi-truck near Marion. Used I-81 all the way to Raphine, where I got a gas fill-up (1530). Made plans via phone and text to meet the Twins for dinner and arrived in Harrisonburg at 1715. I told the Twins I was at Cracker Barrel. Brenna called to tell me she was on her way to meet me but I had to text a lot with Erin to convince her to come. Brenna and I started out with some food and had a nice chat. Eventually, Erin arrived with Austin and we enjoyed and even bigger dinner (they had good appetites). Brenna called Mollie on FaceTime and we talked for a little while. Everyone was in very good spirits by the time I left for home at (1900). Used I-81 and I-66 to get back to Alexandria (good speed and light traffic). Home by 2030! Hoping to work tomorrow... Walked over 100 miles (50+ new AT miles) during the Shutdown - hope I don’t have to wait too long for the next hiking trip! AT Today = 4.10 miles / G.T. AT = 1332.02 miles]
Saturday, January 26, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip B - Day 5
Was awake at 0545 and spent some time packing and cleaning up the room. The temperature was just over 20 degrees in town his morning - brrrr!!!! I was not in the mood to immediately venture into the higher elevations for my hike and decided to wait until the sun warmed up the trail. I checked out of my hotel (0745), ate a leisurely breakfast in Franklin (finished at 0830) and headed northeast on US-23 until I reached I-40. Took the interstate to the west and got on NC-209, bound for Hot Springs. This is one of the most remote parts of the AT south of Maine and it sometimes takes hours to drive between two AT points that are only 30 miles apart - it seemed like a good day to try to chip away at the big mileage I still have left in that area. First tried to find a road that went to Max Patch and located one (Caldwell Mountain Road) near the town of Spring Creek. Followed that until l reached NC-1175 and then used NC-1181 to reach Max Patch Road (NC-1182) - there were signs helping me all the way. Up to that point, the swerving, steep paved roads had good traction but the road to the summit was gravel and got progressively icier as I climbed - I had to give up and turn around about a mile from my destination. Backtracked to NC-1175 and followed it until I reached NC-209 again. Somehow (senior moment?), I ended up turning the wrong direction and ended up back in Spring Creek (grrrr!), Got going again in the right direction and explored another place where the trail supposedly crossed a road (Garenflo Gap) just outside of the city limits. That road turned out to be too rough for Nellie so I gave up again. Drove through town and headed east on US-25/70 until I got to NC-208. There was supposed to be another crossing on that road before I reached the TN/NC border but I couldn't find it. Denied three times, I decided to drive over to I-26 next (via NC-212) and arrived in Erwin, where I filled up the gas tank (1315). The weather had improved tremendously (high 30s) but all the peaks (most around 4K feet) around town were shrouded in white. Took a gamble and used TN-395 (AKA Rock Creek Road) to try to find where it crossed the AT and was successful this time! I discovered that the trailhead on the NC/TN border was Indian Grave Gap - I had never hiked in area, but had mapped out a strategy a long time ago to complete it in 3-5 mile sections. The climb to "The Beauty Spot", was supposed to be around three miles so I quickly geared up and headed NOBO (1330). It was sunny and cool but the trees initially shielded me from any winter breezes. I wore two layers (but brought more) and felt comfortable. Almost the whole section was a climb and, as I went higher, the snow got deeper (probably no more than two inches at worst). That didn't bother me because the trail had been worn down by other hikers before me. The views from the tree covered ridge were tremendous but they got better when I reached a huge bald with views in every direction. It was a lot colder up there but I took lots of pictures and marveled at the vistas. Kept going until I saw a parking area for the Beauty Spot Gap (about 100 yards off the trail) but didn't want to turn around until I crossed a road - after a descent, I found one (USFS-230) about half a mile to the north. Started back immediately, torn between staying on the bald until sunset and wondering what my next destination would be before I had to get home the following day... On the way down, I encountered a "trio of aunts" (day hikers with no gear) and a "trio of moms" (day hikers with gear, including "chili and hot chocolate"). I also saw a dad and his daughter - he had brought her up to the Gap to see snow since there wasn't any in town. Finished my hike at 1615 and was surprised to learn from the AT guide that I'd hiked almost 8 miles - I double and triple checked it because I couldn't imagine I'd gone so far. Must have really gotten my trail legs back during the last few months! Felt great after the satisfying hike and decided to stay overnight in Elizabethton so I could try another section tomorrow. Ate dinner at Taco John's in Elizabethton (1700). After making plans with the Twins for the following day, I checked into the Travelers Inn (1730) and relaxed in my room (read, watched TV). I went to bed at 2230. Sometimes I just get lucky and stumble across an AT section that I never heard of or imagined hiking before I woke up that morning. Today was such a day - may there be many more! AT Today = 3.90 miles / G.T. AT = 1327.92 miles
Friday, January 25, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip B - Day 4
Got up early (0645) and discovered that it was very cold. As a result, I worked in the room to let it warm up a bit. Breakfast was leftovers. After an hour or so, I decided to tackle a challenging section in the Nantahala Gorge. Used NC-28 and US-19 to get to the Nantahala Outdoor Center. When I first visited the area in 2014, I climbed up from US-19/74 for about a mile and gave up - I didn't have a map, the climb was steep and it was really hot. In 2017, I returned to the area and hiked (from the opposite direction) along the ridge near Wesser Bald, stopping just short of the huge descent at a place called "The Jumpoff". This effectively "landlocked" about three miles on a very steep hill and I was not looking forward to re-hiking the additional climb to reach the area... Arrived at the trailhead (Nantahala Outdoor Center) at 0900 and started SOBO, wearing three layers again because the temps were in the mid-30s. It wasn't fun to retread the first mile but there were nice switchbacks and views of the river below. As I climbed, though, the hill got steeper and I had to contend with lots of mud, ice, slippery rocks, roots and fallen trees. One nice thing - the sun was shining brightly and warmed me up a bit. My pedometer quit on me again halfway through the climb and all I had to go on was the time (tried to gauge distance via my normal trail speed). As I've mentioned before, a lot the challenge of the AT is psychological - I struggled to keep going when I had no idea how far I'd really been or how much was left. I kept mindlessly trudging and only realized later that I hadn't taken any photographs for most of the day. Fortunately, I knew what the area near "The Jumpoff" looked like and I got more deja vu the higher I went. Eventually, the trail was a series of stairs - rocks, chopped logs, etc. With almost no room on either side of my feet, I had to be VERY careful not to slip - a fall would be disastrous! My pace was so slow near the top of the climb but I was sure I reached the right turnaround - the views were unforgettable! I felt like I was on top of the world and could see a panorama of almost 360 degrees. I'm not afraid of heights but I felt very exposed/unbalanced on the rocky cliff. I also noticed that my three layers had drenched through with sweat and I was extremely cold. So I headed back down again. It was slow going for several miles but eventually I reached the "easier" part of the section again. My blister was acting up and I felt very tired/sore. When I reached my car (1300) after about 8.5 miles, I'd already begun to lean towards calling it a day. When I got news that the Government might re-open soon (yaay!), I decided to go back to town. Reached Franklin via US-19 and NC-28. Picked up lunch/dinner (to go) at Arby's (1400) and went back to my room. Watched news and movies, did some reading and packing in my room and didn't go anywhere for the rest of the evening. Worked on Trail Mileage Log (other long trails) and went to bed at 2200. A day like today, while difficult, gives me hope that I can finish the whole AT eventually! AT Today = 3.30 miles / G.T. AT = 1324.02 miles
Thursday, January 24, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip B - Day 3
Up at 0700 but I didn't hurry out of the room. A front came through overnight and drenched everything within about 100 miles. Colder temps also followed so I wasn't sure what direction to drive to get the most out of the rain-shortened day. Renewed my hotel for a few more days (had to help the mother of the manager with the credit card machine). Ate leftovers for breakfast. Waited in town much longer than I'd wanted to while the clouds raced overhead... Eventually (0930) decided on a Georgia hike and made an effort to get as close to Springer Mountain as I could to fill in some gaps I still have near the Southern Terminus. Used US-64, GA-68, US-76 and US-19 to reach GA-60. This was the long way around but I wanted to have a chance to choose the section, based on the conditions. And, boy, was there weather - between Franklin and the AT Trailhead, I passed through rain, thick fog, snow flurries, heavy winds and warm sunshine! Stopped to check out the section that started at Woody Gap but decided it was too windy. Drove a short distance to Cooper Gap Road (AKA USFS-42) and found the AT crossing at Gooch Gap by 1130. Headed SOBO with clear skies and cool temperatures (three layers and gloves). Just as I started, I encountered another hiker (Tom, from Gainesville, FL) who was just crossing the road. He was doing a loop hike with only a few miles on the AT and I was only able to stay with him for a short time. Passed five other section hikers that were all going in the other direction - almost none of them talked to me. Near Cooper Gap, however, I met one who was taking his time and was chatty - he told me he had three months to kill and was going to see how far he could get on the AT (NOBO) before he had to go back to work. His daily mileage was pretty short (8-10 miles) and he was worried about the incoming snow storm (expected on Tuesday). I gave him the advice that I could and wished him well. After that, I didn't see anyone else. There was some climbing today but it wasn't too difficult - the trail was nice and smooth with barely any mud or ice. I got great views of Springer to the west (through the trees, so didn't take pictures) and made great time - probably almost three miles an hour all day. As the sun started to set, the temps dropped a lot. The icy winds were pretty strong every time I came through a gap or on the ridgeline of the mountains (Justus and Sassafras) and had cooled me down a good bit. But it got real when I started to see the water in puddles starting to freeze before my eyes. Fortunately, the sun still kept some areas warmer - it was only in the hollows where I truly felt cold. Earlier in the day, I'd decided to push as far as I could on distance, hoping to take advantage of the fact that the road paralleled the AT for almost the entire hike. In the back of my mind, I also hoped a Trail Angel would be willing to give me a ride back to my car - I'd seen three cars on the way and thought I would find another one when I finished my outbound leg. With the worsening cold as a motivator, I turned around at Hightower Gap and hiked back on the gravel road (USFS-42) back to my car. I think the road route was a little shorter but it was hard to be sure because my pedometer quit a few times (and my phone shut off because it was so cold). This also meant that I didn't have any guarantee that the road I'd picked was actually the right one - I walked about three miles before I saw the AT blazes in the woods (and breathed a sigh of relief). Unfortunately, no cars came along so I had to walk all the way back. Finished at my car again by 1745 after close to 17 miles - and finishing the last 8 miles in less than three hours! I was SO COLD when I got in the car that it took 30 minutes to get warm. When I got done with my hike, I found I had received a huge number of emails and some texts - it was strange being "in demand" after having so much solitude recently... Used GA-180 to cut off some of the distance during my backtrack to the hotel. It was light enough for me to get out of the mountains and back to the GA-NC border before it was full on dark. Stopped for gas in Young Harris (1855) and then used GA-69 and US-64 to reach Franklin. After I got to my hotel room, found out I had a HUGE blister - hoping it doesn't slow me down at all over the next few days... Ate leftovers for dinner and talked to Brenna on the phone for a long time. Watched some TV before bed (2300). Today I felt as strong, limber and full of endurance as I ever have - it was so great to be out on the trail with such extended daylight! AT Today = 8.60 miles / Grand Total AT = 1320.72 miles
Wednesday, January 23, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip B - Day 2
Woke up in my comfy bed and realized it was 0800 already! All this time off (and the documentary about early "Rush" (the band) last night) has really reset my internal clock... Fortunately, I was able to get ready rather quickly and, after picking up gas and breakfast in Franklin (0840), I got on the road. I used NC-28, US-19 and NC-28 to reach the area near Stecoah Gap and found a side road (Upper Tuskeegee, became County Road 1242) that crossed the AT to the north. This allowed me pick up where I left off few weeks ago and cut into the distance of another section that was "marooned" due to my earlier ignorant decisions. Started NOBO from my car (1000), bound for the Cable Gap Shelter. The temps were in the mid 40s so I only wore two layers (carried more, just in case). The first part of the hike was only about a mile and I immediately backtracked to my car. Crossing the road, I started a big climb that really didn't end until I reached my second turnaround point (Brown Fork Gap Shelter). It didn't really rain on me but I occasionally felt spitting precipitation (somewhere between ice crystals and misty drops). I saw some pretty threatening clouds to the west but they must have followed the ridge line, since they never reached me. There was some wind on the ridge and I actually lost my Stetson a couple of times (fortunately, not over too steep a cliff). Last time I was in the area, I didn't even wear the hat because it was too cold, windy and rainy. Today was actually pretty pleasant - I didn't really sweat or feel too cold. I was treated to several views of Fontana Lake, some to the far west and some to the far east (the mountain I was on obscured the middle). At other times, the clouds closed in and I couldn't see anything. Most of the trail was smooth but there were some places ("hollows") where there was significant ice and mud and I took my time navigating through those areas - though I didn't fall, the lower part of me was covered in mud and I lost my breath a couple of times when I stepped on mud that covered ice. There was no room for error, since I skirted the steep ridge for many miles. I passed many downed trees (the trail maintenance crews can't do anything to clear them while the government is shut down) - I actually think some of the trees fell while I was hiking because I had trouble during my backtrack in areas that I thought were clear earlier. Finished up my almost 12.5 mile day with a descent to the road (1515). Hadn't seen any people or animals all day but that was OK - bonus at the end was to hear a loud Barred Owl hooting "who cooks for you?" across the valley. Was careful in my return to Franklin - rain had covered the road (NC-28) all the way back and worse was expected. Drove back to my hotel (same route as the morning), arriving at 1600. Cleaned up in my room and then drove to Pizza Hut in Franklin, where I had a nice dinner (salad bar, medium pizza and Hershey Cookie). It was pouring when I finished (1915). Back in the Budget Inn, I watched TV and read until going to bed (2245). Glad I found somewhere dry today and will try to do the same again tomorrow! AT Today = 6.10 miles / G.T. AT = 1312.12 miles
Tuesday, January 22, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip B - Day 1
Since I have no clue when work will resume, I decided to go back to the southern hiking zone again. I usually never have this much “me time” vacation at once so figured I wouldn’t let it go to waste! Left home at around 1015 and used I-495, I-66 and I-81. It turned out to be a great drive, with very little traffic and the weather was awesome. Got gas in Marion, VA (1450) and continued on I-81 until reaching I-40. Used that road to reach the TN/NC border near Waterville (1700). I'd previously hiked in this area in 2014 and it was another one of the sections from that trip with “nebulous” turnaround locations. Just as I saw about a week ago, the sun sets much later than it does in the eastern part of the time zone - this gave me just enough time to smooth the rough edge of the section (between I-40 and Green Corner Road). It was much warmer (mid 40s) and I didn’t even carry gear for such a short walk. This place is where I’ll need to park when I tackle the Max Patch area - it’s also near where a hike through the Great Smoky Mountain National Park would end... Made it back to my car after less than an hour on the trail - the "leisurely walk" was barely a mile round trip (with retreaded distance). Headed southwest again at 1745 - got back on the Interstate and drove until I reached US-23 and followed that to Franklin. Checked into the Budget Inn at 1905 and then walked to the Lazy Hiker for drinks. There was really no one there (I actually thought they were closed) and I only stayed until 2035. Back in my room, watched TV until I was ready for bed (2330). Best news of the day was when I discovered that it was supposed to be in the 50s down on the GA/NC border during the next few days! Looking forward to some more good Trail mileage this week! AT Today = 0.30 miles / Grand Total AT = 1306.02 miles]
Friday, January 18, 2019
Dumfries, VA (USA)
[after dropping Mollie off at school, I drove to Woodbridge - I made a return at Walmart and did a little walking while I waited for an audiologist appointment I'd made in December - at 0845, I drove a bit farther south (to Dumfries) and arrived at the doctor office - as I was checking in, the receptionist said she had never heard of me (!) and couldn't fit me in until the following week - after verifying with my insurance company that I could reschedule to any other provider, I drove back to Alexandria - teleworked until Mollie had her early release from school]
Wednesday, January 16, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip A - Day 6
Up early (0530) and spent some more time reading. Also had to pack before going back to civilization... Was checked out of my hotel before 0800 and got breakfast (McDonalds) in Franklin. Drove just over 10 miles to Winding Stair Gap. Almost every morning on this trip, I’ve come over the hill near the AT trailhead and the good weather has been whisked away in fog and rain. Today, it was the opposite! It was overcast (low clouds) and in the low 20s in the valley but when I got to the parking area, I found bright blue skies and a warming sun. There was some frost in the shady areas but no ice. Jackpot! I had to connect two previous hikes (one from 2014 and one from 2017) so some of the miles were “retreads”. No matter - I left my car at 0830, headed NOBO, and feeling great. The trail guide showed the section as a steady climb up to Siler Bald but it seemed almost flat after the last few days. Also, the surface was pretty smooth, with almost no rocks, roots or mud to avoid. As a result, I flew! The sun was shining on me almost all the way - I had worn lighter clothes and it kept me just on the edge of sweating and cold. The views of the valley below were amazing - it looked like a scene from the PNW, with “islands” (hills) poking through a sea of clouds/fog. It was windy at my turnaround point (Snowbird Gap) but I didn’t stay long. Motored back to my car, arriving at 1130 after more than 8 total miles (some didn’t count). Realized at the end I hadn’t seen anyone or any animals (other than two horsemen at the trailhead this morning). Was sad to leave the area but I then remembered I'd gotten a good bit of AT mileage this week and that snow was coming. Changed at my car and then headed north. Used US-23 to get back to I-40 and decided to go east - on the way, I heard what sounded like WMAL broadcast (not sure how that was possible). Actually thought I would run out of gas near Old Fort (NC) so got off the highway for a bit - but I never found a gas station until I reached the Interstate again. Fortunately, I then saw a sign for much cheaper fuel just a few miles away. Filled up in Marion, NC at 1355 and then continued on I-40 to I-85, where I headed north. The traffic was OK but it was a long drive. Got gas again in North Dinwiddie (near Petersburg) at 1830. A short time later, finally got on I-95 - fortunately, had a great drive the rest of the way. It's funny, but I didn't see any evidence of snow until I was north of Richmond. Arrived home at 2030 and found snow in my own parking lot! It was a great trip - glad I had a chance to hike during unexpected "vacation" and now excited to spend time with Mollie. AT Today = 3.70 miles / G.T. AT = 1305.72 miles
Tuesday, January 15, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip A - Day 5
Woke up at 0600 - found I had a text from the hikers I'd met the previous day (Roger and Sean). They'd actually texted me overnight with their plans for the day: they decided (I guess because of Roger's knees) not to shuttle the full section we'd discussed but, instead, to camp midway. They did ask me to join them until I needed to backtrack to my car (7+ miles in each direction) but it seemed like too much hiking for me under that conditions. Also, I didn't come prepared for an overnight below freezing and the shuttle would take more than 24 hours - so I politely declined. Fortunately, I had enough time to make alternative plans. I cleaned up some work stuff (end of pay period) and did some planning and prep for my hike. Ate a relaxed (sit down) breakfast in Franklin (0810) and then headed west towards Georgia. Made it across Winding Stair Gap without almost any fog but noticed a heavy frost line on all the peaks above - wondered if this would continue into Georgia... Arrived at the trailhead (Byron Reece Memorial Parking Area) for my hike at 1000 and immediately headed SOBO on the approach trail (0.65 steep miles up to Flatrock Gap). It was very chilly (low 30s) when I started and it got colder as I climbed - I wore three layers again when I left the car. Switched to the AT on the ridge and soon I was completely surrounded by trees with thick hoarfrost. It was eerily silent in the snowy morning air and my heart sank with the thought that I'd miss the sun again. The trail started a steady (but not too steep) climb up Blood Mountain, the highest point in Georgia (almost 4500 feet). As I reached the halfway point in the climb, I cleared the clouds (!) and found sunlight! The terrain to the south was completely clear of weather and it appeared that we'd get the same conditions soon (about 30 minutes later, they arrived). Caught up to a local section hiker (Wayne) who I'd actually seen at Neel/Neels Gap when I first got to the area - he'd been dropped off by his wife and was considering an overnight on the trail. We hiked together for the next three miles - over the top of Blood Mountain, which was covered in "armor" of huge rocks and few trees. The views were spectacular! An airplane circled the summit (at eye level) several times and it got warm enough that I took off my coat. We exchanged trail stories and he showed me his detailed sectional map of the area (I probably need one of those...). A solo LASHer passed us and we chatted with him for a little bit. We later found the Shelter on top of the peak - it was made of stone but had no windows (looked cold). We then headed down the mountain on the north side, which was still shrouded in snow. As the sun climbed in the sky, the hoarfrost started to melt quickly and soon it was snowing (heavy!) with debris from the tree tops - it seemed like it would never end! Passed another solo LASHer, three day hikers and an ATC Trail Maintainer. We passed along news of downed trees in the area to the latter hiker and continued south until reaching Jerrard Gap. I said goodbye to Wayne there and backtracked towards my car. Passed the Trail Maintainer again and, when I told him my plan to hike the Freeman Trail (AKA Bypass Trail), he told me he'd never used it before. Wayne had said the same thing and I thought it was odd that local people wouldn't go that way. Then he warned me about rattlesnakes and copperheads that were usually present on that route. At first, I laughed inside, since I thought there was so much snow on the ground a snake would be foolish. When I switched to the trail, however, I saw that it was completely clear of snow - the south side of the mountain had shed all hoarfrost and it had even melted... For a trail that was designed to avoid the difficulty of the mountain climb, I was not impressed. For one thing, it was so rocky that I kept wishing I'd stuck with the AT. It didn't seem to be regularly traveled and there was very little evidence of trail maintenance - I guess it is because it isn't part of the AT. Also, it was poorly marked - many times, I would stumble across a rock field (or gushing waterfall through the middle of the trail) and be unsure about which way to go (but sometimes there were blue blazes and I was "saved"). The distance on the Bypass was supposed to be a little shorter than over the ridge but I think the difficulty made the time savings negligible. I passed three (older) day hikers during this section. Eventually, I made it back to Flatrock Gap and resumed hiking the AT (NOBO at that point). Passed Balance Rock and saw some good views of US-19 below the trail. It was only about a mile to Neel Gap and it was mostly downhill. Took some pictures and then used the highway to get back to the parking area (about 0.5 mile north of the Gap). It was colder again, mostly from the wind - I think it is some kind of venturi effect, since I've encountered it many times in the gaps. At my car by 1445 after almost 10 miles. It wasn't a long section but the day was much nicer than the previous few and I really got to enjoy the views. Was on the road again by 1500. When I came back into an area with cell phone signal (near Hiawassee), I was hit with a huge email blast - people from work were looking for me! I actually pulled over for a short time to take care of the issues. Then used GA-69 at Young Harris to get to Hayesville and US-64. The weather was much better as I drove through the pass. Picked up dinner (to go) at Arby's in Franklin (1620) and went back to my room. Rested, read and watched TV for several hours. Thought about going to the Lazy Hiker again but decided against it. Went to bed at 2230 but didn't fall asleep for a while (restless). Since it was almost time to have Visitation with Mollie, I knew I had to leave the area very soon. Going to try one more hike tomorrow and will then head north. It's been a great trip! AT Today = 5.00 miles / G.T. AT = 1302.02 miles
Monday, January 14, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip A - Day 4
Awake by 0445 but went back to sleep - as a result, I slept late (0730). Did some organizing in my room - it was so cold that I was not in a hurry. Was hoping to give the sun a chance to warm things up but it didn't work (stayed in 30s all day). At least it wasn't raining! at about 0900, I left Franklin and headed towards Hiawassee, hoping to find several choices where it was warmer. After crossing Winding Stair Gap on US-64 (treacherous again, from dense fog this time), I found the weather in the valley on the NC/GA border to be much nicer. Took NC-175 and GA-75 to reach Hiawassee and got some breakfast at Hardees (1015) because it was the only place that was open. Ate in my car as I drove down GA-75 and GA-180, back into the mountains. Unfortunately, I figured out that the nicer weather was only confined to the town - at 4000 feet, the fog, clouds, wind and frost were in full force. I had initially decided to hike off GA-75 (just a bit south of Hiawassee) but I realized while driving that this trip is a unique opportunity to drive to the farthest, most difficult trailheads and that I should take advantage of that fact. So I drove back (via GA-180 and GA-348) to Hogpen Gap, where I'd been two days earlier. The conditions were nasty and I noticed there were no road crossings in the nearly 15 mile section to the east. Decided instead to backtrack to nearby Tesnatee Gap - drove carefully through the area where I'd almost skidded off the road on Saturday but there was no ice this time. There was, however, a pickup truck plastered against the rocky cliff where he'd apparently lost a battle to the black ice... Parked at the trailhead by 1115 and headed SOBO. I was wearing three layers, carrying multiple sets of gloves and hats (some still dry, in reserve, in my little backpack). At times, I felt overdressed and hot - at others, the icy wind cut through the gaps in the hills like a wind tunnel and made me grateful that I hadn't de-layered. I'd hiked on both ends of this section in 2014, which meant that the new trail miles were "landlocked" between hikes I'd done without a map. Still, I was energized by the chance to connect the dots and get the exercise, even if some of the miles didn't count towards my AT total. I'd hiked for over three miles (uphill much of the way, across wet and muddy rocks and roots) without seeing any wildlife or people. I didn't see any scenic views, either - the fog was too thick. The trees at the highest elevations were covered in hoarfrost - it was quite pretty until it started "raining" on me - luckily, they weren't icicles! The ground in some places was covered in feathery looking "pellets". About midway through, two NOBO Thru/LASHer guys passed me with nary a word. Then I encountered a pair of hikers and their red American Husky, enjoying a snack on the side of the trail. I figured out quickly that their truck (Ohio plates) was the one parked next to mine at the trailhead. The pair (older father = Roger, middle aged son = Sean, dog = Dash) had gotten a shuttle ride from their car to Neel Gap and had started hiking from Mountain Crossings at about noon. It had already taken them almost two hours to hike two miles - Roger was just getting back out on the AT after knee replacement surgery the previous year. Sean, on the other hand, had completed an AT Thru Hike in 1994 and was trying to help his dad finish the AT in sections. We talked for a long time - about favorite AT sections, logistics of section hiking and how we were enjoying the getaway in the mountains - and then I realized I was up against sunset. Before I continued, we talked briefly about the chance to shuttle another section in the coming days. I gave them my business card and left for my turnaround point (Neel Gap). I've made this offer a few times and haven't heard back - in fact, today at the trailhead I noticed a lady and her Aussie walking who I swear looked like the North Georgia hiker I'd met near Carver's Gap last Fall with her husband - it seemed like too much of a coincidence but it made me ponder how that offer never panned out (I didn't expect today's to happen either). Continued towards US-19 and, before I could see it, I heard the loud sounds of traffic echoing through the large valley below. Gradually, I came out of the fog/cloud and could see Mountain Crossings. The descent was not too steep and I made a quick turnaround at the doorway through their building where the AT goes. While there, I also saw the famous tree where hikers have thrown their worn boots for many years (should have brought my old ones!). Headed back towards my car and was quickly in the goo again... Made great time going back, though! Passed the two serious hiker guys (they were setting up camp for the night) and even caught up to Roger and Sean. Hiked the last mile with Sean, who seemed to like a much faster pace than his dad. Made it to my car, after hiking 12 miles total, by 1645 - same times as yesterday but more miles. Said goodbye to my fellow travelers and headed back towards Franklin. The weather improved after I descended to about 2000 feet above sea level. Decided to use US-76 and US-441 this time - hoping to avoid more fog in the darkness - and it seemed like a better way to go for this hiking area. After driving with the heat full blast in my car, I still felt very cold (subtle shiver). Got gas and dinner (Taco Bell) in Clayton (GA) at 1815 and then continued north to my hotel (arrived at 1845). Only after I was able to change clothes did I start to feel normal - my hiking gear was much wetter than I'd expected, despite the fact that it didn't rain. Spent most of the evening trying to dry everything - didn't want to wake up with wet hiking gear! Watched TV and read my book until it was time for bed (2200). Really looking forward to some genuine sunshine on the ridgeline - gonna try some more miles (probably in Georgia again) tomorrow! AT Today = 5.60 miles / G.T. AT = 1297.02 miles
Sunday, January 13, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip A - Day 3
Up early again (0555). As expected, the rain continued all night and was still threatening when I woke up. No worries - the reason I picked Franklin for my "headquarters" was because it is a town with AT all around and I can choose several hiking zones based on the forecast. Read and watched TV while waiting for the rain to stop. Cleaned and organized my stuff again. There had still been no progress on reopening the Government so I renewed my room so I could stay for a few more days. Eventually decided to head north, hoping to find a place where the rain would hold off for the rest of the day. Picked up late breakfast (to go) in Franklin at McDonalds (0945) and then drove north on NC-28. It didn't look good as I was driving the long and winding way - it was very rainy and the road had standing water. Continued until reaching US-19 and then got back on NC-28 until it passed the Fontana Dam, which I last visited in 2014. Decided to stop at the overlook, even though I'd already hiked that part of the trail, and then backtracked to the trailhead on the state road. Headed NOBO at 1115, wearing two layers (temps were in the mid-high 30s), carrying my winter coat and covered in my rain poncho/tarpaulin. The part of the section was as steep as the AT comes - I gained almost 2500 feet in 2.5 miles. As I climbed, the limited visibility that I'd had at the road vanished - soon I was walking in the clouds/fog. It wasn't raining too much but the humidity in that environment basically drenched me. This wasn't good because the wind on the ridge was strong and biting (and I think the temps dropped to near freezing, as evidenced by frozen water on rocks). I saw lots of birds (large and small) but no other wildlife. There were several difficult rock scrambles along the ridge and I fell down more than once - nothing injured but my pride, though! At about the mid point (just past Walker Gap), I passed three section hikers (guys' weekend) whose first words were "when does it stop climbing?" We exchanged some good trail geography and I was convinced that I needed to turn around before the shelter (my initial goal for the day) so I could avoid a major climb during the backtrack. However, I also wanted to avoid turning around at a non-descript location. As a result, I ended up reaching the Cable Gap Shelter before turning back. That meant I had to use all the determination I had left to get back to the ridge. Most of the AT challenges are psychological and today's was no different - mind over matter and I made it back to the top. When I reached Walker Gap again, I realized just how steep the climb in the outbound leg had been - it was much more difficult to go downhill without slipping on roots or on random muddy spots. Had to concentrate a lot to avoid a major spill - I usually make great time back to the car but today the backtrack time might have been almost equal with the one for the outbound leg. I was pleasantly surprised that I got some visibility as I got closer to Fontana Lake - the clouds must have been moving east the whole time I'd been gone and this cleared up the visibility near the road. I hadn't realized that the drizzling had stopped until it started up again just as I reached the road - I was already drenched so it didn't matter. Got into my car at 1645 after around 11 miles - feeling strong and happy that I hadn't turned around early. Returned home by same route as in the morning - it took over an hour to get back to Franklin but I beat the darkness by about 10 minutes (1815). After quickly showering and changing, I drove over to Sakura, a Japanese restaurant on NC-28 that I believe was previously a Chinese restaurant (Fortune House?) when I was visiting in 2017. Enjoyed sushi made by a friendly chef (from China) behind the bar. Met a local hiker named Perry (casino bartender) and had a fun conversation about the local area. Stayed until 2000. Back at my room, did more cleanup, worked on journal, read and watched TV. Bed at 2300. More tomorrow! AT Today = 5.50 miles / G.T. AT = 1291.42 miles
Saturday, January 12, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip A - Day 2
Got up early (0530) and repacked (prepping for my hike). Rain was expected and I researched the weather in all directions. The morning started out in the low 30s and overcast but it looked nice enough to try hiking around Albert Mountain. Got breakfast (to go) in Franklin at McDonalds (0805) and then headed west. It was a short drive on US-64 and I expected to be able to reach the trailhead via a gravel Forest Service Road. Unfortunately, the gate was closed (for the winter) and I had to make other plans. I decided to drive into Georgia and try one of the easier three or four spots where I had miles remaining. On the way across the border, there was intermittent rain/sleet but I had the clothing and rain gear and didn't change direction. Decided to tackle a section near Springer Mountain that I'd never tried when I was last in that area (2014) - arrived at the trailhead on GA-60 (near the town of Suches) at 1045. After exploring my options and layering up again (the wind made Woody Gap feel a lot colder than everywhere else I'd been), I headed SOBO. Truth be told, this decision was made partly because of the large number of loud and obnoxious college age kids who were hiking in the other direction... I didn't regret my choice - the wind died down as I hugged the southern side of the ridge and I didn't really need my hat and gloves (although I kept them on). Didn't see any wildlife but got some pretty views of the valley to the south - there were almost no more mountains in that direction and it was clear that the Southern Terminus of the AT was selected in this area for a reason. Met some day hikers (opposite direction on my outbound leg but none on the way back to the car) and one guy who looked like a Thru or LASHer. He told me there was sleet at the Gooch Mountain Shelter and that worse weather was coming by 1300. With that intel, I decided to turn around at Gooch Gap (USFS-42), even though it meant that my hike was going to be much shorter than I wanted. As I began my backtrack, I was less than 16 miles from the start of the AT! Made great time back to my car and it started to pour (freezing rain) just as I got inside (1345) after 3.8 (times two) miles. Considered calling it a day but, after it stopped raining 15 minutes later, thought maybe I could get a bit more hiking in since the sun doesn't set around here until around 1800 - headed back to US-19 and then towards Hiawassee. The trailheads in the area were close as the crow flies but very far apart on the mountain roads. Stopped briefly at Neel Gap, where the AT crossed the road and where I hoped to log another mile, but discovered that there was no parking there for hikers - instead, I had to drive half a mile away to a brand new parking lot and access trail (extra mile involved). It started raining again so I left the area and turned on GA-180 and then GA-348. This took me to a place (Tesnatee Gap) where I'd hiked in 2014 without a map or trail guide. As a result, I had recorded some "mushy" turnaround points (i.e., no landmarks). Figured out that I could park only a mile away (at Hogpen Gap) and fill in the blank - it was less than a mile section but would mean that my next hike would be from a road and not a random tree in the woods. Started SOBO at 1445. The climb up Wildcat Mountain was far different than the earlier hike - I did not enjoy the fierce wind or driving sleet that I found on the top of the ridge. Located what I thought was my 2014 turnaround (0.6 whole miles from the car!) and then quickly backtracked. At my car by 1515 and spent a short time watching crazy ice climbers on the rocky hillside near the parking lot. By then, the sleet had built up a thin layer of black ice on the road - I slipped when I was walking and it was much worse when I started down the hill in the car. Had one very scary moment where I was glad I just had the brakes replaced - yikes! Retraced my route through Hiawassee and it started pouring down rain again. After hiking around nine miles and feeling pretty fresh, despite the weather, I decided to turn my attention to the drive back to Franklin. Got gas in Hiawassee (1615) and continued north. I was expecting ice on the Winding Stair Gap again but, fortunately, didn't encounter any. After reaching Franklin (via US-64), I stopped for dinner at Bojangles (1705) and ate in the restaurant. Back in my hotel room, I read my AT hiking book ("Hiking Through") and watched football games. Mollie called to talk and then watched some movies until I went to bed (2330). It's supposed to rain for about 24 hours but I hope to get in a few more AT miles by sunset tomorrow - it's all "free" miles, whatever I get, since I didn't expect to be here at all. "When life gives you lemons..." AT Today = 4.40 miles / Grand Total AT = 1285.92 miles
Friday, January 11, 2019
Government Shutdown Trip A - Day 1
A good boss of mine used to tell me "if you don't have anything to do, don't do it here" and I decided to heed his sage advice and get out of town. A winter storm was expected in NoVA so I planned an early departure. Targeted the hiking zone in Western North Carolina, too far to reach in a two or three day weekend so it was a special opportunity to get some NC and GA AT miles, even if it was wintertime. After getting home very late after my drive to/from the Eastern Shore the day before, I slept late. Was still able to leave my house at 0915. Drove to Harrisonburg via I-495, I-66 and I-81 (got gas in Toms Brook at 1015, reaching US-33 by 1050. On the way, I'd been texting the Twins, hoping they might want to get together for a late breakfast. Brenna said she was busy but Erin said she wanted to meet me at Mr. J’s Bagels. We met up at around 1100 and got our food quickly. We then talked for almost two hours! We discussed classes, upcoming summer plans and current events - it was a nice time and I had a hard time getting back on the road again (1345). Continued on I-81 for a few uneventful hours. Near Marion, I encountered a scary situation where cop came off exit ramp and blew by me on the right to chase a speeder - relieved he wasn't after me! More driving I-81, all the way into Tennessee, and then used I-26. Got gas in Erwin (1700) and then took I-26 to I-340 (on the north side of Asheville). Then used I-40 to get to US-23. The sunset over the Smokies was beautiful! I followed US-23 (and other names for the road) until I reached Franklin (1900). Checked into Budget Inn (the same place I'd stayed when I'd visited on other trips to the area) and unpacked. Walked down the street to the Lazy Hiker Brewing Company and bought dinner at the Mad Batter (1935). Had some drinks at the bar (VERY crowded) - the live entertainment was a group of pickers called "Social Insecurity". Stayed until 2120 and then walked back to my hotel, getting in 5K steps for the day, despite a day of driving. Watched some TV and went to bed at 2300.
Thursday, January 10, 2019
Cape Charles, VA (USA)
[while unsure about the status of the Government Shutdown, I took previously scheduled leave and my boss told me he'd let me know if work was officially going to end) - before leaving my apartment, I packed for a hiking trip that I planned to take if the Government closed - gas fillup in Alexandria (0945) - left for Eastern Shore - used I-495 and US-50 - at Chesapeake Bay Bridge by 1030 - it was very windy all the way and there were speed restrictions on the bridge - continued on US-50 until I reached US-13 in Salisbury (drove through town rather than using bypass) - stopped at Walmart in Fruitland and got light lunch at Dunkin Donuts (1215) - checked my email while there and learned I'd officially been furloughed - continued south to Chincoteague - all the parks (including Wallops NASA Facility) were closed and town was dead but was able to drive around in Assateague Island - saw wild ponies near the road, drove down the beach - walked to Lighthouse - couldn't get NPS stamp for Mollie because no gift shops were open - headed back to US-13 and drove south - not a lot of traffic - saw some tractors working a cotton harvest - decided to check out Cape Charles - found the downtown/waterfront area and explored for a bit - walked on a paved trail that followed the beach - it was very windy and I got lots of sand in my hair - drove back towards US-13 - stopped at the Cape Charles Brewing Company - enjoyed a flight (4) of beers with a friendly bartender (Aidan) - sampled Assateague IPA, Ole Reliable, a Blueberry beer and Horsey Norsey - done at 1630 - hadn't heard from Eileen all day but she said she'd be free for dinner - so decided to continue south towards the CBBT - stopped briefly at Kiptopeke State Park (not very exciting) and found the (closed) Eastern Short of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge - took a walk on a paved trail there (about two miles) from 1645 to 1730 - Mollie called me and then I started to get texts from Eileen - I'd thought she was in Exmore (only about 20 minutes away) but it turned out she was in Onancock (farther...) - headed north on US-13 immediately and turned west in Onley - after figuring out there were two Methodist Churches in town, I finally located the one where Eileen was staying with her SLU Habitat Crew - picked her up at 1825 and we looked for a place to eat dinner - discovered Kendall's Kountry Kitchen in Onley and were able to get some good food (no alcohol, much to Eileen's disappointment) - enjoyed a very nice talk over a Seafood Sampler plate for almost two hours - we only stopped visiting because the restaurant closed at 2030 and I had to drive back home - dropped her off in Onancock again and I headed north on US-13 - stopped for gas in New Church, VA (on the border) at 2115 - then US-13 to US-50 - traffic was light and I made good time - once I was on I-495, I hit construction area (minor) and arrived home at 0030]
Friday, January 4, 2019
Woodbridge, VA (USA)
[teleworked - drove to Woodbridge to get my windshield repaired again (warranty) - done by 1045 - shopping at REI - was going to meet up with Greta but she was busy - drove home and teleworked some more]
Wednesday, January 2, 2019
Alexandria, VA (USA)
[getting Explorer repaired in Alexandria - worked in DC - picked up car and drove to Port City Brewery to meet with Stephanie - happy hour there from about 1645 to 1930 - drove home]
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