South America Trip - Day 23

Even though I wanted to sleep in later because of my long travel day, I was still wide awake by 0545.  Ever since arriving in Rio, I’d been hoping to get a late checkout from my hotel on this day but the desk clerks told me I had to wait until today to ask ("hotel policy").  So, on the way to breakfast (0715), I checked on this perk and they confirmed I could keep the room until 1400.  After that, I sat down to a nice breakfast (eggs, sausage, yogurt, pastries) in the pleasant morning air.  Unlike all the previous days at the Hotel Mercure, I noticed many more people in the dining area - it must be the weekend crowd.  Also many people I encountered (including hotel staff) were wearing masks - that seemed ominous.  After I was done with my meal, I walked back to Droga Raia and picked up some more cough drops (0745).  Subsequently, I returned to my room and did some packing.  I also watched more movies, did some reading and tried to get mentally prepared for my long journey home.  At 1300, I left my room and headed for the lobby.  I checked out of the hotel and then ordered another Uber (1305) and was soon on my way back to Galeo Airport.  My driver (Nelson) was quite aggressive, which seemed to be a helpful trait for those driving the chaotic city streets of Copacabana and Lagoa.  We passed the lake again and it had lots of sailboats on it this time.  Eventually, we made it onto the highway and I was whisked out of the city that I’ve been enjoying for the last several days - sad to leave.  We reached the airport by 1345 and then I had to locate the LATAM counter - not an easy task.  After walking almost the entire length of the terminal, I finally managed to find it.  Hoping to take advantage of my early arrival, I asked one of the LATAM employees who spoke English if it were possible to “start early” in the check-in-process.  They said that it was and directed me towards the self-check-in kiosks.  The last two flights in my vacation itinerary seemed a bit more challenging because I had to check bags to New York (international) but then fly to Sao Paolo (Guarulhos) within Brazil's domestic system.  Somehow, I managed to navigate the Portuguese prompts (including tagging my own bags) and got in the queue for the baggage weight/submission step in the process.  It took a while to turn in my bags because the lines were slow.  However, I was able to get both bags checked for free again and was soon headed to the security gate for Domestic Departures.  As I’ve seen for most of my stops through airports on this vacation, the security process was much quicker and straightforward here.  I then had to make another journey through the Duty Free shop to get to the date area.  By this point (1415), I was hungry for lunch and began looking for a place to eat.  After scoping out a few small bistro counters, I decided to take advantage of the short line at Subway.  Even though the ladies there didn't speak English, we were able to work together to construct a 30 cm Italian BMT for me (and I even was able to help an English speaking lady with her order).  After I got my food, I sat in the dining area to enjoy it (1425).  I didn’t have to be in a hurry because I had almost three hours until my flight - it was nice to not feel rushed.  After finishing the sandwich, I walked a bit deeper into the gate area, passing lots of crowds, and eventually found a place to sit quietly and charge my phone.  Until it was time to board, I pretty much stayed right there, reading.  During the same interval, I heard very little English and the sign with gate assignments was very slow to update.  With this in mind, I paid very close attention to announcements and crowd behavior.  By using some of my few Portuguese words, was ultimately able to arrive at the proper gate on time (1630).  While standing in the boarding queue, I witnessed a tremendous amount of annoyance on the part of other passengers because the cabin crew had apparently decided not to allow anyone to bring any carry-on luggage aboard.  Tensions were high but we eventually started down the jetway.  Even then, though, we got to stand in a big line that stretched all the war from the gate to the back of the airplane (A321). I was finally in my seat by 1715 and we pushed back from the gate shortly afterwards.  This time, I was in a middle seat and it meant I had very little room to move (meanwhile, there were six empty seats in front of me in the exit row...).  We got airborne at around 1735 and, departing south, got a spectacular view of the entire part of Rio I’d been visiting for the last few days.  The evening sky was filled with clouds and scattered showers but the glow of the setting sun made the images of the city quire memorable.  After all the logistics in getting onboard, we had a very quick flight to Sao Paolo (landed at 1825).  When our plane parked, I believe I witnessed a flight attendant rendition of “who is our favorite section?” because they made everyone stay seated and called random rows to exit.  This was annoying, actually, but they were completely in charge.  Once off the plane, I found that I had to enter yet another series of queues that took me from the domestic area to the international area.  Along the way, I had to scan a ticket, visit Brazilian customs and then pass through the heaviest security I’ve yet seen on the trip,  My carry-on backpack got flagged for a search but I was ultimately cleared, unlike several other poor folks who had to throw things away.  After that, I found myself inside the huge international terminal - it was full of people and I had to walk clear across the entire place in my search for a bar/pub.  Along the way, I passed a busy area where a Doha-bound flight from was boarding - everyone looked like they were psyched for Brasil in the World Cup.  Although the National Team didn't actually play until the following Thursday, I guess everyone wanted to see the other matches too.  After finding no where to sit down for a drink, I backtracked to the beginning of my tour of the terminal and noticed a small place called Bleriot where I was able to get some beers (Sol Cerveza Mexicana) and a snack. While there, I heard a lot of English being spoken and a few folks even engaged me in conversation.  Overall, there was lots of friendly banter.  After a nice break (2045), I moved to another area so I could charge my phone and wait for the departure of my next flight.  By 2200, I decided to go looking for the gate and found it nearby.  Group 1 was already loading!  Wanting to use some more of my Reals, I bought a bunch of candy at a store nearby (2215).  Back at the gate, I waited a little longer before my group was called.  After that, it took a while to reach my seat, on the aisle in a middle trio near the back of the plane.  The aircraft was mostly full.  A lady in the seat next to me said hello and I realized she had sat next to me on the previous flight.  Behind me, two toddler-aged kids sat down with their mother - it could be a long night...  The doors closed at 2300 and we took off almost on time.  Even though I was exhausted and ready for sleep, I started watching movies because the crew didn’t seem to be planning to “darken ship” for the nine hour flight.  Just before midnight (Sao Paulo time), I was surprised when the flight attendants brought me some dinner (pasta, veggies, bread, candy).  Since it was available, I didn’t pass up the opportunity and add a cup of wine too... After getting done with my meal, I wrapped up in my blanket and tried to sleep.  We were over the Atlantic Ocean when the LONG day finally ended...

South America Trip - Day 22

Yesterday’s cold really threw me for a loop… Fortunately, I woke up this morning (0615) fully rested. Not wanting to spend anymore time in my room, I went downstairs early and, when I found the restaurant wasn’t open for breakfast yet, walked a few blocks north to find a pharmacy. I located one (DrogaRaia) that was actually open 24 hours and, after some assistance with Google Translate, bought some Halls cough drops (0650). Back at the hotel, I ate a filling breakfast (eggs, sausages, yogurt, pastries and cheese bread). I felt much better this morning and decided that I would stick to my original plan of visiting Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf). For the last three days, I’d been attempting to make a ticket purchase (unsuccessfully) on the Parque Bondindo website so figured I would get an early start in case I had problems getting a ride on the gondola lift. My Uber (with Andre, 0750) got me to the park entrance just before 0800, when operations were supposed to begin. However, it soon became clear that the gondolas didn’t start running on Fridays until later - I eventually figured out that the first one departed at 0900. Since I had time to kill, I tried the website again and was actually able to buy a ticket (0820). This proved to be fortuitous, since there were separate queues for people with and without tickets. As a result, I was one of the first people to get into the park when they opened and soon found myself riding a gondola from Praia Vermelha up to Morro da Urca. The views were spectacular and the ride was quick. At the first stop of the journey to the top of Sugarloaf, I explored briefly in the area near the two gondola lift entrances and marveled at several amazing views of Rio. One of the most interesting things I saw was the huge turn that aircraft had to make when taking off from Aeropuerto Santos Dumont - southbound departures had Sugarloaf right on the nose as they got airborne! A little bit later, I walked to the north end of the Morro And boarded the second gondola that would take me the rest of the way to the top of Sugarloaf. On top of the second hill, there was a pleasant breeze and even better views of the surrounding city. There were many shops and bistros there too - I imagine it would be a very nice date to bring someone to the top of Sugarloaf at sunset time and enjoy a caipirinha or other cocktail… Not wanting my visit to end immediately, I took a walk on several different stairways and jungle covered walkways that ringed the Morro. Before long, however, I ran out of things to do and pictures to take so I made my way back to the gondola entrance and returned to Morro da Urca. By this point, it was getting busier and warmer and I was ready to try another activity. One more gondola ride, took me to the base of the entire system, and I was soon standing on the street. Using suggestions from my guidebook, I next explored the area near Praia Vermelha and then walked down the northern side of the Urca waterfront. This side-trip took me on on a route that was directly opposite (across Enseada de Botofogo and Baia de Guanabara) from where I’ve been walking yesterday (Flamengo). After stopping at Igrejs de Nossa Senhora do Brasil and Praia da Urca, I backtracked to Avenida Pasteur and ordered another Uber. My driver (Joao) found me and then made a great move across four lanes of traffic to get us quickly on our way to Jardim Botanico. I arrived at (1135) and (with help) quickly found the ticket booth (1145). A nice lady gave me a detailed map in English and I began to explore the shaded groves and pretty gardens that filled the area within the walls. From several angles, I saw the nearby (as the crow flies) Christ the Redeemer statue. I rested happily on benches, filled up on water from natural fountains, watched monkeys playing and took a break at a little café (1230). By this point, the temperatures had, once again, risen into the high 80s and I had to decide what to do next. Nearby, was the neighborhood of Lagoa - while I’d seen the Lake briefly during an Uber ride yesterday, I hoped to get a closer view. However, my navigation was not quite as good as I would’ve liked, and there were several private properties along the west side of the lake. This meant that I soon found myself, instead, in the neighborhood of Leblon. Figuring I’d probably do better if I just headed straight to the beach, I continued south on Avenida Bartolomeu Mitre. Once I was near the sand (far west side of Leblon-Ipanema, near Posto 11), I found images that were completely different than just a few days before. So many people were on the beach! Of course, there were many bathers but there were also people playing handball and some sort of soccer volleyball. And there were so many pop-up vendors near the people on the sand, selling drinks and snacks and swimwear. I realized at that moment that I was about four miles from my hotel and still had to walk - fully exposed to the sun - a long way. The sun-bronzed and leathered bodies of the Cariocas nearby seemed like a cautionary tale but I kept going. During this phase, I also denied myself several drinks that seemed inviting - I knew that if I sat down I’d never get moving again. Ultimately, I reached Hotel Mercure at around 1420, having walked over 11 miles around the city. I realize it would take weeks of exploring to truly appreciate Rio but it does feel good to have seen glimpses of so much of it! Once again, I rolled into a siesta period, hoping for a second wind to enjoy my last night in Brazil. Today’s rest seemed to go better (no nap needed) and I felt ready to go to dinner by about 1800. I’d seen a burger place to the west called “Bob’s” and decided to check out the Brazilian version of fast food. The evening was already cooler as I walked and, after ordering the “Big Bob” (1815), I sat down to dinner (double patty burger, chicken fries, banana-caramel shake) on their patio. Up until today, I’d been approached by panhandlers only a few times during this trip - most were friendly and smiling. During this meal, however, one came upon me from behind and seemed unwilling to just give up after my first “nao.” I was startled (more than anything else) and was a bit short with him. Afterwards, I walked across Avenida Atlantica and proceeded down to the beach. The sky was clear and I could see all the prominent landmarks for miles in every direction. It didn’t occur to me until later that I should have scanned the southern skies, once more, in search of the elusive Southern Cross… I watched more “Fut-Volei” and handball while dipping my toes once more in the Copacabana surf. Near my hotel, I decided to return to Mar de Copa for one more adult beverage. I’d been seeing people ordering a drink (“coco”) that seemed to be entirely comprised of a giant coconut so I got one too. It turned out to include an almost unlimited amount of coconut milk - tasty and hydrating. After that, I ordered one more caipirinha - it hit the spot! Meanwhile, I watched what appeared to be informal tournaments of the beach sports near the volleyball nets and secretly cheered on the different duos of players in range. By 2000, I was tired and decided to head back to the hotel (2000). At the front door, I encountered a young lady who seemed annoyed (much more than I expected) that I couldn’t respond in Portuguese to whatever she wanted. By her (over)reaction, I can only conclude that I dodged a big bullet in several ways… In my room, I watched movies on my phone until it was time for bed (2300). Last night in Rio…

South America Trip - Day 21

I’d been advised to be very careful about petty crime in Rio so I changed my normal plan of walking everywhere - Ubers work great in this city! This morning, I ate breakfast at the hotel and then got a ride (with Alvaro, 0800) to the neighborhood of Corcovado (“hunchback”). When I arrived (0800) at the ticket counter for the Cog Train that would take me to the summit and Cristo Redentor statue, I had no trouble getting a ride on the next train (0820) - it was much easier there than online… It was already quite warm (70s) and humid so a climb to 2300 feet promised to bring breezy relief. Along the way, we passed through the deep jungles of Parque da Tijuca (didn’t see any of the monkeys, though). After about 25 minutes in the incline (quite steep), I joined hundreds of other folks (on my train and earlier ones) in trying to get the best pictures of the statue and city skyline far below. Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) was easily viewable, since the weather was good. What a great day to be on top of the world! I didn’t tarry long up there (the huge number of selfie sticks and social media posers were tiresome). By 0930, I was back at the bottom of the hill amd ordered my second Uber. This time, the driver (Cesar, 1000) took me to the Santa Teresa neighborhood (1000) and dropped me off at the famous Arcos da Lapa. I was in luck: the “bonde” train passed over the span while I was watching. From there, it was a short walk to the equally famous Escadaria Selaron (colorful steps that reminded me of a town I’ve visited in Sicily. The commercialism and (more) selfie culture made me pause in climbing - I also found some shade. After reaching the top, I backtracked through the crowds until I found the Catedral Metropolitana, a huge pyramid shaped church near the Arcos. Once inside, I marveled at the pretty stained glass windows and ubiquitous statues of São Sebastião. Back in the hot sun (temps in the high 80s), I resisted the temptation to order my third Uber. Instead, I walked east into the Centro neighborhood. I’d heard that this place was safest during the work week so I crossed through several blocks of highrises and old, historic buildings (I believe I passed the Teatro Municipal and Museu Nacional de Belas Artes). I also walked through a series of pretty parks that were close to the water: Praca Pistóia, Jardins do MAM and Monumento Nacional aos Mortos da Segunda Guerra Mundial. After that, I found myself on the waterfront, following a route I’d last seen in Copacabana called Rio a Pe (“Walk Rio”) along with many bikers, joggers and other walkers. Passing Marina da Glória, I reached Parque do Flamengo. The views of the sun, sand and Sugarloaf (across the harbor) were tremendous! Also, I kept seeing other angles of Cristo Redentor - and I noticed a lot of paragliders near the big statue. I’d been going so long on foot that I began to believe I was really close to the Urca neighborhood but I soon realized I’d have to cross the entire Botafogo neighborhood first. That was where I ran out of steam (after more than six miles). Looking for a break, I bailed on the Rio Walk and found a little bistro (Farani 1903 Sports Bar) that specialized in steak. I may have disappointed them by only ordering two Sprites and French Fries… After I was finished with my food boost (1225), I walked a short distance to the south and looked inside of the Basílica Imaculada Conceição. Then it was time for another Uber (1235). Fortunately, the ride (with Fabio, 1250) was the fastest of the day and I was back in my hotel by 1250. With the hot sun, a huge list of “must sees” and a bit of a cold (it finally got me!), I’m happy with all the things I did this morning. I was hoping that another siesta would get me ready for a second wind in the evening but that never happened. Instead, I took a nap and rested in my room for the rest of the day. My dinner was an apple I’d been carrying with me since Buenos Aires. I found out that my hotel has HBO (English, with Portuguese subtitles) and enjoyed watching a movie called “Gunpowder Milkshake”. Went to bed just before 2100 - hoping to beat this cold with a lot of rest and hydration…

South America Trip - Day 20

I slept until 0630 this morning - it was raining so I didn’t leave the room early. At 0800, I went down to breakfast in the hotel restaurant and tried several good things they had (pineapple, cereal, eggs, various pastries, cheese bread). I finally decided that I didn’t want to waste a single day of sightseeing. Starting just after 0915, I walked the entire length of Copacabana Beach on Avenida Atlantica, first to the east (through Leme Beach area) as far as Ponta do Leme and then (backtrack) all the way to the southern end (gate of Forte de Copacabana). Using Rua Francisco Otaviano, I then reached Ipanema Beach and walked west about one quarter of the way down Avenida Vieira Souto (just past Posto 8). Backtracked to Ponta do Arpoador, climbed the huge rocks and got photos of much of the famous coastline nearby. The higher terrain (Pao de Acucar and Dois Irmaos) were covered in clouds… Actually used some of the phrases I’ve learned on Duolingo in the last year: once to ensure I was dressed appropriately enough to enter an interesting church I passed and another time when I offered to take a picture for a young couple. In the latter situation, I wasn’t sure what to say so they would know I was pressing the photo button so I called out “Queijo” (cheese). There was a bit of wind at the time but it could also be my pronunciation because they laughed and kissed for the camera. I later figured out that they must have heard “Beijo” (kiss). Regardless, they seemed quite happy with the snaps… My little umbrella wasn’t completely useless but I still got pretty wet in the early part of my three hour walk. The sun finally came out as I reached the hotel and, by then, the character of the beach changed completely. The only people I saw when I started were fishermen, hard-core runners and a happy group of enthusiastic dancers who seemed to be trying to make the rain stop. At the end of my excursion, however, all the “normal” people responded to the sunshine by spilling out of their hotels, covering the streets and resuming their beach vacations. It may be strange to say this but I kind of liked having the place mostly to myself… I then took a rest after my 8 mile walk and planned to get out for more sights and sounds later in the day. During my “siesta” this afternoon, I did a lot of research about how to accomplish some of my “bucket list” activities in the area. Like so many of the things I’ve already done on this trip, logistics are a big challenge - *everyone* has the same ideas and reservations are limited in many good places. I’ve been getting better at using WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger to communicate directly with the venues and I hope these new social media skills pay off in the next 72 hours… At around 1630, I went down to visit the desk clerks (my new friends, Lenora and Guy) and they sent me off to their favorite “Frango” (chicken) spot in Copacabana: Galeto Sats. By then, it had completely stopped raining and there was a pleasant breeze coming off the ocean. Clouds still threatened, though… It took a little effort to find this hole in the wall but it was definitely worth the effort. When I mentioned I’d been sent by a hotel for their best chicken, the waiter set me up with “Galeto ao Molho Sats” (fried chicken, with a special sauce) and Batatas Cozidas (boiled potatoes). Of course, he insisted that I wash it all down with their local Chopp (or two, or three) and I didn’t argue. The food was excellent! The sauce was a mix of citrus and oils and it went well with both the chicken and potatoes. The little place wasn’t busy yet so I watched an interesting Futbol match with the staff. When I tried to pay, my credit card didn’t work and I got alarmed that I didn’t have a way to pay. Then I remembered that the Real to Dollar conversion rate made things seem unnecessarily expensive and used some of my cash to pay for the meal (1800). After a great meal, I took my time going back to the hotel, walking in the surf that gently (and warmly) soothed my feet - they’ve averaged almost 9 miles a day for almost three weeks. There actually weren’t many people on the beach this evening. I heard that the locals think it is too cold right now but it seemed like Cape Cod summer temps to me… I got my second (if I count the Uber ride last night) good view of Cristo Redentor, watching Rio from the top of his hill - hope to get closer soon! The sunset (which happened just after 1800) created some amazingly colorful images (my camera probably doesn’t do them justice). When I got near my hotel again, I stopped into Mar de Copa again so I could try one (or two) of their Caipurnias. The music was good and the atmosphere was fine. I was done at 1955 and walked back to my room. Had to get all the sand off my feet but that felt good. Rested and watched videos on my phone until bed (2210). Maybe you are all getting tired of hearing me say it, but Life is Good!

South America Trip - Day 19

Somehow, after all of yesterday's walking, I still woke up at 0545.  I finished packing and left a tip in the room for the nice folks who'd been taking care of me (0700).  I then headed down to the main level.  Last night, I had issues with confirming my flight to Rio.  Fortunately, both Booking.com (website) and GOL Airlines (Facebook Messenger) sent messages to me that helped to sort out the problem.  In the lobby, I was able to thank Mateo and Gonzalo for their services and then paid for my room (0715).  The staff let me store my bags in the lobby while I went to breakfast (cereal, pastries).  The hotel also set up a shuttle for me at 0800 but it didn't arrive on time.  When I checked with Gonzalo on the status, he prompted the driver, who finally showed up at 0815.  After that, I said goodbye to the Ramada and we got on the road towards Aeroparque Jorge Newberry.  I'd learned that Buenos Aires actually has two separate airports (one for domestic and one for international) but I lucked out by getting to use the same one leaving the country as when I'd arrived on December 12.  On the flip side, I remembered (as we drove) that this was the first flight on the trip that I’d scheduled without the help of the USAA Travel agent and it felt a bit risky to be using the airline (GOL)... Still, the weather was beautiful and the taxi ride went relatively smoothly.  As we drove, I started to wish that I had more time in this amazing city - I'll definitely have to return!  The driver dropped me off at the Departures terminal (0835) and I quickly found the GOL desk.  It was mobbed with people and I gradually deduced that there was another (earlier) flight that was being handled.  When I asked about the best thing to do, I was told to wait until exactly three hours before takeoff.  Since this was still about 60 minutes later, I killed time by trying to figure out whether I could get any Argentinian taxes reimbursed.  By the time I eventually found an actual person to assist me, I learned that I couldn’t get money back because I hadn’t done the entire, complex process correctly.  Oh well...  After that, I sat in a chair and watched some guys who were shrink wrapping any bags people had brought (for a fee) - I ended up seeing a lot of hiker backpacks getting “mummified." Just before 0940, I got in a line just outside the official check-in queue and waited for my own flight to be called.  It probably took 20 minutes more before the entire line of passengers for São Paulo was finished and then most of the agents took a 10 minute break (only one stayed behind in case late São Paulo passengers arrived).  At 1015, our own queue finally began to move - I felt fortunate to be near the front and got checked in easily (once again, two pieces of baggage checked for free).  I then navigated my way to the International departure area and proceeded through security (they were quite serious) and Argentina Immigration.  By 1045, I had made it through to the gates and felt a bit better about the way things were going.  I ate a snack in the area near Gate 17 (where my boarding pass said I should be waiting) and used a phone charger nearby.  During this time, I noticed a gentleman with an iPad who was walking nearby and realized I’d seen him at the Buquebus terminal the day before.  It turned out that he was a representative of Argentina’s Tourism Board and he asked me to take a brief survey about my time in Argentina (I obliged him).  At the scheduled boarding time, I noticed that the gate was still completely deserted and decided to check out Gate 20 (a status board showed that was where the flight would be).  I found a huge line of people there and noticed the distinctive orange of the GOL logo nearby. From this point, time seemed to stop...  I noticed many of the same agents here that I’d seen at the check-in counter (small staff?) but no announcements of any kind were made during the next hour.  I actually could see the plane (B737-800) outside the window but nothing happened when the departure came and went.  Eventually, I got the gist of the situation from watching the expressions of others: we’d had a mechanical problem that was needed to be resolved.  Eventually, the agents started checking people in (before the gate even opened) and finally (1300), we were allowed to board. We then managed to get everyone seated and the doors were actually closed (the plane wasn’t completely filled).  At that point, though, I heard announcements in Spanish and Portuguese that the Argentine Federal Police wanted to re-check all of the carry-on bags! With many groans, everyone got their stuff and we started walking up the jetway.  Midway, however, we were told to turn around and return to our seats. I’d only half understood what was happening and tried to get more info from nearby passengers.  In the end, as best I can figure, everyone accepted the random and unexplained disruption with phrases like “it is better not to ask”...  Once on the plane again, there was another delay before a large number of extra passengers arrived.  My guess is that this was partly the source of all the other issues (the airline and security didn’t want to depart with a partially full aircraft).  We finally departed at around 1350.  I had a window seat and got to see some of the northern suburbs of Buenos Aires during the climb out - I’m not 100% sure but I think I also saw Colonia as we crossed the delta if the River Plate.  The only outlets were strange “USB” ports which (again) wouldn’t work for me.  We got snacks on the plane but the flight was otherwise uneventful.  We landed at Galeo Airport in Rio de Janeiro at 1650.  Once I was off the plane, I found that I had a LONG walk to immigration.  Luckily, the line for foreigners was not long.  I retrieved my bags and then proceeded through  customs quite quickly.  My first attempt to get cash initially failed (there was, apparently, a problem with the computer).  Instead, i snaked through a huge Duty Free area.  Once outisde the Security Zone, I started getting harassed by taxi drivers - they followed me all the way through terminal and almost demanded that I used their services.  I managed to find an ATM at 1710 and took out some Reals (first time using my credit card to get cash).  After that, I managed to set up an Uber but then had to find the place where they were waiting.  On the way to that location, I got even more harassment from drivers - wow!  I eventually found my Uber and we left the airport.  By then, it was raining and I discovered that the driver (Vitor) didn’t speak English.  And it was already getting dark!  We made good time from the airport to Copacabana Beach, fortunately.  Along the way, I saw the Christ the Redeemer statue and Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf).  It appeared to be "rush hour" because everywhere we went had busy streets. I was able to chit chat a bit with driver and was impressed by his driving skills - I got lots of evidence that the Rio drivers were crazy...  We arrived at my hotel (Mercure) at around 1815 and I was quite pleased to find that the place was right on the beach (on Avenida Atlantica).  While trying to check in, I had trouble with my credit card initially.  I was also faced with a question about "Real charge versus US dollars" and then discovered that the hotel had own conversion rate - I chose the Real rate and it turned out to be much better in the end.  I actually had to call my bank to sort things out before the card finally worked (1900).  Before going to my room, I talked to the desk staff (Lorena, Guy and “Peter Parker”) about arranging tours (etc.).  After stashing my stuff and changing in to "beach attire", I went downstairs again and went outside to look for a beer.  It was still raining a little bit so I ducked into the first place I found - a little beach bar called Mar de Copa.  By then, it was already dark but I still had a nice view of the sand and palm trees.  I ordered a small glass of Chopp (local Pilsner) that was on Happy Hour special and later got a 600ml Brahma Duplo Malte to go with some fried shrimp.  The waiter was quite nice and we talked about beer, Rio and Miami (his daughter was born there).  The ambience and music were also good and I took my time, relaxing.  I found that my seat location in the bar allowed for some harmless vendor harassment but vowed to do better in choosing a table.  I finally finished up my evening at 2050.  As I was leaving, a guy chased after me on the way out (he called me “Boss”) but I didn’t understand what he wanted so continued across the street.  Once in my hotel room again, I watched some videos on my phone (first time on the trip) until I got sleepy.  Went to bed at 2215.  Really excited to be in this iconic place!