Antarctica Trip - Day 15

Despite remaining under the weather (sinus block), I slept OK and was awake at 0615.  Spent some time reading, blogging and during Duolingo before heading to breakfast in the hotel restaurant (0715).  There were LOTS of food choices (eggs, sausage, fruit, cereal, pastries) and the venue was quite crowded.  I spent a little time avoiding the other Americans because I continued to hear complaints about the overall travel experiences (SMH).  At 0800, I left the Hilton and walked across the nearby canal, making my way to Plaza de Mayo.  It was sunny, clear and HOT!  My goal was to locate the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, where Pope Francis used to practice Mass.  Fortunately, I arrived just as a Mass was beginning (0830) and joined the service.  My Spanish isn’t great but it was clear that the Homily was actually about His Holiness - I learned later that today was the Feast of the Chair of St. Peter at Antioch. Glad to have been able to get a feel for the Parish.  Afterwards (0900), I made my way north along the west side of the the Puerto Madero canals until I found the Buquebus terminal.  This brought back good memories of my visit to Colonia in 2022.  Skirting the harbor on some surface streets, I managed to enter the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur.  I’d been trying to get inside during the last two visits to Buenos Aires and today it was actually open!  I walked along the north side boundary (fence line) and, later, got some pretty views of the Rio de La Plata.  The trail was dry and dusty and there were more annoying mosquitos.  On the plus side, I felt some nice breezes when I arrived at an area with a beach (no swimming allowed).  Departing the river via a trail junction to the west, I walked towards the Puerto Madero canals.  It was SO hot!  Stopped a few times to check out little boardwalks in the marshes.  Later, I crossed one of the canals on a wooden boardwalk that crossed an algae/weed/lilypad choked channel.  There was no open gate there, however, and I had to continue south on the “quay” before I was able to exit on the southern end of the park.  Along the way, I watched paddle-wheel boats removing organic materials from the canal - looked like a never ending job...  Overall, the hiking activity in the Reserva was quite challenging because of the heat (90ish F) and humidity but, while feeling the breezes coming off the Rio de La Plata, I became convinced that the city is well named.  Leaving the park, I walked the "long way" back to the Hilton (arrived at 1100).  In my room, I tried to dry my sweaty clothing, take a shower, charge my phone and do some repacking before I had to vacate (1200).  I was mostly successful and was completely checked out of the hotel by noon.  I left my bags with the concierge and walked across the canals again.  Initially, I was in search of the recommended restaurant/pub “La Birratera” but found it was closed.  Later, after walking down the entire northern end of the west side of the canals, I finally sat down at Gran Puente (1245).  It was actually located right next door to the restaurant where I’d eaten dinner the night before.  Sitting outside, my table was shady and breezy.  I wasn't in a hurry at that point, so I ordered an Imperial Lager.  Unfortunately, a flight delay crisis started just at that moment: American Airlines moved my flight from later in the evening (today) to afternoon on February 23 (tomorrow).  This would also have meant that my arrival in NYC would be after 2100 local and I'd lose the chance to ride home on the Dartmouth Coach.  Alarmed, I called the Viking emergency line; they were eventually able to resolve the issue by rerouting me through Miami.  Not the best outcome but better than the alternatives...  At that point, I ordered lunch (quesadillas) and had some more cervezas.  Finished at 1415, I walked back to the Hilton and stopped at the Viking desk to update them on my flight situation.  I found several other passengers there who were in full panic mode about the travel SNAFU.  Delayed by transportation arrangements, I started seeking some cool air - the front desk suggest that I try the fifth floor of the hotel (Business Center) so I headed up there.  This looked like a good solution for my two (plus) hour delay and I settled into a couch next to charging port.  However, I then got displaced while removed every piece of furniture from the area (including the couch I had been sitting on.  I spent the next few hours in another part of the fifth floor, trying to stay cool until it was time for our bus ride to the airport.  At 1700, I met the remaining Viking passengers (along with what appeared to be guests from several other cruise companies) and we boarded the bus.  Arriving at EZE (1745), the bus dropped us off at the completely opposite end of the terminal from where the American counter was.  Even after I walked the long distance, I arrived to find a HUGE queue.  I started wondering if I should try to upgrade to Business Class but, after waiting in a big line for about 30 minutes, I reached the counter and found that they were all sold out.  Oh well...  Next, I headed to security and found the several layers of it to be quite quick.  Not knowing which gate my flight had been assigned, I walked around in the terminal and looked for food.  I found some, at La Panera Rosa (1810), and spent some time resting in a nearby seating area (I didn't eat the food I'd bought, however).  At 1900, I got an email about my gate assignment and wandered in that direction.  After verifying the location, I backtracked to get some dinner at Burger King (1940).  Spent about an hour there, resting and relaxing, before walking back to my gate.  I then waited there for another hour before boarding began.  At that point, it was a free-for-all and I ended up getting in line without knowing the boarding section.  I got told (by a roving security person) to drink my water (“no liquids”) and then got a personal search just after I walked to through the gate.  Regardless, I was in my seat (an aisle) by 2100 and we took off for Miami about 40 minutes later.  The Boeing 777 was quite crowded and uncomfortable.  To make matters worse, the young man next to me was fidgety and bulky.  In the end, I was never able to feel good about my seat, especially since the aircraft was generally hot.  Trying not to think about my discomfort, I watched movies to pass the time.  Later, the flight attendants served us a meal (pasta, “salad”, bread, crackers, cake) but I didn’t eat much of it (full from dinner, which I'd eaten because I wasn't sure we'd get dinner onboard).  Once the lights were dimmed, I tried to doze but it was nearly impossible, even though it was almost midnight and I was feeling rather fatigued.  The end of the day found me flying over the Amazon, considering the trip I was now completing.  After my recent adventure onboard "Polaris", my two days in Bs.As were quite tame.  I enjoyed staying Puerto Madero and the delicious empanadas I'd sampled during my three visits to the city.  The “vacation” part of this trip is now ending and I'm going to need some luck to stay close to my schedule.  I'm glad I wasn't switched from a non-stop to a one-stop itinerary on the outbound leg… All of the logistics confusion is just a reminder that I'll need to work on getting back into the rhythm of real/normal life after such a dreamy few weeks...

Antarctica Trip - Day 14

Last day on "Polaris" :-( On the plus, side, I got to go on an early morning excursion into the southernmost Andes before heading north.  I was awake before my alarm clock (0600) and got to watch a very pretty sunrise.  Spent some time reading and doing Duolingo before I got my remaining items (checked in closets and drawers one more time ) and left my cabin for the last time (sad).  Ate breakfast (with ALL passengers) at World Cafe (eggs, sausage, beans, fruit, yogurt).  I’d already checked two bags to Buenos Aires so only had my small backpack to deal with.  At 0720, I met my tour group in The Library so we could depart on our trip to Tierra del Fuego National Park .  By 0730, we left the pier on a big tour bus (many farewells to crew) with a sign on it that said "Blue 1 Group".  Our guide was Georgina and our driver was Martino.  Amazingly, we got another wonderful weather day, unusual for the area (I'd often heard “we have 200 days of rain a year”).  During the drive to the west, our guide told us about the history of Ushuaia (it was formerly a prison colony).  We got nice views of the Beagle Channel (Georgina: “I’ve never seen so calm”).  Eventually, we ended up on a dirt road (very curvy, with rickety bridges).  We passed camping and rafting sites and saw lots of wild horses (she called them something like "trobishas").  Our route took us near (but not visible) to a historic train track that was built by convicts.  We stopped to look at a "turbal" (peat bog) and learned a lot about trees; we saw beech and canella (Winter’s Bark).  Georgina also talked about something she called "faralitochina" (a parasite on trees).  At 0820, we stopped for a walk at the end of Rua 3 (“Fin del Mundo”); the place was called “La Battalla."  We took a walk on a pretty boardwalk that gave us beautiful views of the water (I learned later that the calm "lake" was connected to Beagle Channel).  Encountered many upland geese and walked among Lenga trees.  All around us, there were many snowy mountains.  At one point, I stumbled across a boat dock that seemed to offer transit to Puerto Arias.  On our way in the bus again at 0850, we headed towards the park exit.  During this phase of the trip, we learned about native cultures.  We stopped at Alakush (visitor center), which contained an interesting museum. We also got a snack of Alfajor con Dulce de Leche, another pastry and some tea.  While eating, I met a French trekker (Oliver) and had an interesting conversation with him.  Back on the bus at 0955, we continued on our way through the park.  Georgina told us about about a nearby peak called Cerro Condor - it was located on the 65th parallel of longitude and defined part of the border with Chile.  We made another stop at southernmost post office in the world.  Most of the other passengers wanted to send some mail or get a passport stamp but I avoided the big line.  Instead, I walked part of the Senda Costera - beautiful.  Everyone was back on  the bus again at 1035 and then we drove to the Ushuaia airport (on the way, I filled out a satisfaction survey, all excellent marks, for our guide and driver).  When we arrived (1100), we had to stand in a huge queue that went from the departure terminal entrance to the gates.  This was because all of the other (non “field trip”) passengers from “Polaris” got there at the same time (they’d been waiting in a restaurant in Ushuaia).  Despite the annoying queue, it was actually kind of amazing to see how many people could be processed by security... After we reached the gate area, I found an outlet where I was able to recharge my phone,  During that time, I saw lots of familiar faces and made some more farewells.  Our departure time wasn’t planned until 1300 but everyone else jumped in the line at the gate at about 1130 (I did not).  At one point, I got up to walk around and encountered more “Polaris” passengers (from a fight scheduled earlier than ours) who are also waiting.  I’d initially been a bit disappointed to see the “FlyBondi” logo on my boarding pass but was later quite pleased to see several Aerolineas Argentinas B737s arrive.  My mood improved further when we started boarding (1215) and I found my seat had much more leg room than our aircraft on the previous flight from Buenos Aires.  Unfortunately, I started in a middle seat - but I was able to move to the aisle after the aircraft doors were closed.  We took off on time and got some pretty views of the area as we departed to the north.  At cruising altitude, I did some reading and blogging.  Mid-flight, we were served chicken salad sandwiches and “chips” (more like little sliced pieces of toast).  We got lemon cookies and tea near the end of the flight.  My sinuses cleared out a little during the climb but, during the descent, my ears were blocked again (uggggh).  After we landed in Buenos Aires (1615) we found there was no jetway.  This might not have normally been a big deal but it was VERY hot outside.  Eventually, we deplaned and I was able to get my bags quickly and locate the Viking representatives inside the terminal.  Our next delay began immediately, though, and we ended up waiting for Viking passengers who had booked an extension.  Finally (1700), we were on our way (by bus) to Puerto Madero - whew!  It took nearly an hour to reach our hotel (Hilton again) and, once in the lobby, there was another logjam of activity.  It eventually became clear that the order we did tasks would determine how quickly things moved along.  Using some of my Navy Career experience, I went first to the Viking desk and then got my room key - total time elapsed was 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, many of the other guests were milling around, waiting for instructions.  Reaching my hotel room, I found it to be very warm but also determined that I had great views from the window.  After closing the curtains and firing up the HVAC, I showered, changed and then departed the hotel (1830).  Even then, it was still quite warm and the sun angle was brutal for several of the restaurants along the canal.  Despite the heat, I walked a good bit to locate somewhere I might be comfortable.  Ultimately, I settled on “Juan Bautista” (1900).  Once seated, I ordered some Prisionero Malbec and ate a tasty appetizer (empanada).  My main course for dinner was Bondiola de Cerdo (pork).  For the first time in years, I’d didn’t enjoy the assado because the meat seemed very charred.  In the end, I only consumed one third...  By that point, the mosquitos had descended on Puerto Madero.  As a result, it became almost unbearable to be outside and I started my walk back to the hotel.  Crossing the canals, I arrived back at the Hilton at 2020.  Walking past the hotel restaurant, I saw almost all of the other Viking passengers I'd arrived with eating dinner there (SMH).  Back in my room, I basically collapsed in bed and was asleep quite quickly (2130).  Another fun filled day - with more time in Buenos Aires tomorrow before I have to go home!

Antarctica Trip - Day 13

Viking Polaris: Day 11!  Sadly, this was our last day at sea - I’ve had a wonderful time!  During the night, we completed Drake Passage Crossing #2 without much incident. I was awake at 0615 after a restful sleep.  Before getting dressed, I read and relaxed.  I also took photos of the Cape Horn Islands and then got breakfast (eggs, sausage, fruit, hash browns) at the World Cafe (0730).  While there, I gave a tip to Mega (who was serving nearby) - she has been so nice to me each time I've encountered her.  At 0800, the Captain announced that we were passing Cape Horn.  Hoping to get some good photos of this important event, I went topside (bow) and got some hot chocolate.  Since temps were in the 40s, I was comfortable in a long-sleeved shirt - everyone else was bundled up in winter gear...  The weather was wonderful and I was glad to be able to be outside.  During the next 10 minutes, there were a few other announcements about the ship’s course and the history of the landmark.  Here’s to all the sailors from Cape Cod who made the journey around Cape Horn!  I returned to my cabin (0815) and, for the first time on the ship, I did laundry.  While waiting in my room, I did some more reading.  Rico and the other stewards wanted to clean my room so I left the cabin and went walking.  I came back to the laundry room several times (to check on the washer/dryer) and also picked up a hard copy of the “Viking Daily”.  Later, I began watching some more Enrichment videos (rest of “The Seals of Antarctica”, by Rorie; all of “Thrilled for Krill, by Rorie; part of “Seabirds”, by Ewa).  It eventually became clear I’d never complete them all… My laundry was finished at 1100 and, soon afterwards, I went down to the Aula foyer so I could join a tour of the Laboratory.  Spent more than 30 minutes there, learning about (and viewing through the microscope) microplastics in the Drake Passage.  Other than the excursions in Antarctica, I’m going to miss the scientific nature of this Expedition the most. Afterwards, I got some hot chocolate and had a nice talk with Steve and Regina.  It was getting close to lunch time so I next headed towards Deck 5.  Along the way, I stopped at Expedition Central to watch a demo of knot tying.  At 1200, I went on deck for photos in the Beagle Channel and, 30 minutes later, stopped in for some lunch at Mamsen’s.  Jim and Gayle had suggested we meet there for lunch; I had the Viking Burger and some fries.  We had a very nice conversation and exchanged contact information.  While eating, I was able to tip Satria (he was very appreciative).  I took some more photos on the way back to my room (1400).  When I arrived, I found a special Cape Horn certificate lying on my bed - I’ll proudly add mine to the collection of similar documents I got during my Navy career.  With the warm sun outside, I started feeling rather warm and opened the window of my cabin.  This allowed me to enjoy the pleasant sea breeze.  I’d felt so at home in my fancy cabin that I had to double/triple/quadruple check in every drawer.  I tried reading but soon got quite tired - ended up napping between 1500 and 1700.  As a result, I skipped a planned Hangar Tour.  With the window still open, I got great views of lots of soaring albatrosses, pretty mountains and picturesque coastal communities.  Most of the rest of the day was spent preparing for the return home. Started organizing all my belongings (for packing later) but it wasn’t easy.  I filled out a six page Cruise Satisfaction survey - that was quite difficult, with so many things to report and people to recognize. Fortunately, I’d kept some notes since we began the cruise and believe I submitted kudos for almost all of the wonderful staff.  Also left a tip for Rico and Jocko when I next left the stateroom (1830).  Took more photos outside (approaching Ushuaia).  As I walked through The Library, Paul gave me a small cup of an alcoholic drink, a sort of "Tea" (mmmm).  For my last meal in the World Cafe, I had some Asian soup, sushi, sashimi and some desserts; my last “wine of the day” was a Marius Grenache Syrah (by Michel Chapoutier).  I'd been planning to move on to another activity but then stopped to visit with Richard and Duane because they had more questions about Patagonia.  Eventually (1945), I left the dining area and watched a bit of the docking maneuvers ("Polaris" was docked by 2000).  Next, I returned to my cabin to finish packing.  The stewards were quite happy with my tip and helped me repair my old duffle bag with safety pins.  After that, I left my two bags in the hallway (I’d labeled them with special colored tags) so they could be taken to the airport in the morning.  At 2045, I left the ship and headed into town, hoping to explore a bit before the sun went down.  I initially went walking along the coast and checked out side streets. Some members of the Expedition Team (crew) had told me the name of the bar (“Krund”) where they often have an “end of cruise” drink.  When I arrived there, however, it was closed.  I waited nearby for about 30 minutes but eventually gave up.  In the pretty dusk, I took lots of photos and was just (2130) about to go back onboard "Polaris" when I encountered Olly and Rorie.  They graciously showed me the way to the bar that the crew had chosen on this particular night (The Birra) and I was able to buy a round of beers for the nearly 20 people (mostly the Excursion Team) who were there.  During the ensuing revelry, I met some new crewmembers, talked with the penguin counters, learned more about the “Polaris” future itinerary and chatted about experiences.  I hope I was able to thank them properly for all the wonderful experiences during the last week.  They are an amazing group of young people and constantly exuded positivity, even during the tough times. Believe me, it was infectious! After about an hour, I mentioned that I was going to depart; they were disappointed I’d only had one beer.  But I was feeling quite tired (still not 100% after cold).  Regardless, I'm very glad I could join them. I was back at the ship by 2300 and, in my cabin, made one more run at verifying my packing.  Did some Duolingo and enjoyed the views of the pretty shoreline from my window.  Finally went to bed at 2345 after another full day.  Thoughts in my head as I drifted off to sleep: the people onboard “Polaris”, from guests to crew, were all very nice. Tomorrow this cruise officially ends and I'll start making my way homeward.  Already, though, this has (hands down) been the best trip ever!

Antarctica Trip - Day 3

Viking Polaris: Day 1!  The last leg of my journey to reach my “home away from home” for the next 11 days began early this morning.  My alarm got me up at 0500 and I packed my bags for the next leg of my trip.  At 0545, I checked out of my room at the Hilton and got some breakfast (croissants and fruit).  While eating, I spoke with a friendly German about his recent trip to Antarctica - he said he had a great time.  Meanwhile, the Viking Team was getting everyone ready to go.  All airfare was included as part of the overall Expedition cost and, to get all of us from Buenos Aires to where the ship was, Viking chartered a flight so we could reach the southernmost city in the world: Ushuaia!  But first, we had to leave our hotel and reach the airport.  Watching the Viking logistics in action was impressive.  During arrivals to Buenos Aires yesterday, the 350ish passengers on the Viking Expedition ship “Polaris” had already been sorted and sent to two different hotels.  Beyond that, the Hilton guests were also sorted with colors. All of this categorizing allowed the tour company to distinguish between buses and charter flights.  I was assigned to the Yellow Group and my bags were identified with a similarly colored ribbon.  Before leaving the US, I’d printed out a lot of documents but most were, ultimately, unnecessary.  At 0615, I boarded a bus with other members of the Yellow Group and we got a ride to Ezeiza International Airport.  On the way, we were issued our charter flight boarding passes.  Like yesterday, it was quite rainy.  Most of the other people on the bus were couples and much older than me.  We arrived at the airport at 0700 and were quickly guided through the terminal by Viking Team members with signs.  I cleared security pretty quickly and, by 0730, was sitting at the gate.  I almost lost my phone along the way but a nice person let me know (whew!).  To pass the time, I did some more reading and charged my iPhone (with the Argentinian charger I’d brought).  At 0755, we were told to board some busses and these took us out to a distant parking spot on the ramp.  When we arrived there, we found a FlyBondi Boeing 737.  An inside joke in my family caused me to laugh because there was a capybara on the tail.  Using some air stairs, we boarded and I found my seat.  There was even less room for legs than I’d seen on my earlier flight (“budget airline”, sort of an Argentinian version of Frontier) but, fortunately, the aircraft was not completely full.  At that time, the fuel truck was still attached so there was no air conditioning - I was really glad that I’d worn my short sleeved shirt because it was so hot.  Other passengers were not as lucky...  Our departure time was supposed to be 0840 but that time came and went before the baggage arrived.  As a result, we didn’t take off until almost 0920.  Most of us were stoic about these things (these flights were arranged by Viking, after all, and we didn’t pay extra) but I did sense some “Ugly American” sentiment with some folks.  Once airborne, the cabin temps were more pleasant and I was able to enjoy some scenery from my window seat.  Along the way to the tip of South America, I did some reading.  The crew served some lunch (jamon y queso) and bottled water (no shortage of that, fortunately) as we flew the length of the Argentinian coast.  During most of the route, we were pretty far out over the ocean but, occasionally, I saw things that I could find on the map.  There were some clouds but most of the views were unobstructed.  Highlights were seeing the entrance to the Strait of Magellan and some of the snow peaked Andes mountains.  Also noticed a huge inland body of water that I later learned was called Lago Fagnano.  Throughout this time, we had no internet or power outlets - felt very glad I charged my phone earlier.  I did (finally) meet one guy who was going on his first cruise vacation too.  The flight attendants came through again later with juice and chips.  After our 3+ hour flight, we made a nice descent into Ushuaia.  I could see “Polaris” in the harbor!  We landed only a few minutes later than scheduled (1215) and it was clear that we'd arrived in town on one of the most spectacular days of weather the area gets - sunny & 60 F.  Unfortunately, our pilots then had to wait 15 minutes for a gate to open up for our plane.  Some of my fellow passengers were not gracious with the delay and things only got worse after we had to wait for an hour for our checked bags to arrive at baggage claim.  Even then, some of us were apparently standing in the wrong place and had to move to go wait some more.  Once we were finally through the mandatory Agriculture Checkpoint, we had to drop our bags with a Viking Team member (there were a lot of them outside security) to stage the bags for our staterooms.  At 1330, I got on a bus that would take us from the airport to the pier.  The weather was awesome (60 F and sunny) and we could see all kinds of beautiful views, including Mount Sarmiento and snowy peaks in Chile.  One of our guides said the locals can almost never see any of the scenery (because of fog on typical days) - I feel very lucky.  Arriving at the ship, we got a welcome from the Cruise Director (Danny) and then walked onto “Polaris”.  WooHoo!  After we started the check in process (1345), things went quite smoothly.  We had some safety briefs, visited our staterooms, met our stewards (mine was named Rico) and got cleaned up.  I took a shower and then watched a mandatory orientation video on the TV in my room.  My Expedition Gear was waiting for me to check (sizes, etc.) but then I was allowed almost two hours of "free time".  I made my way back (still getting my bearings) to the entry/exit area and tested out my ID card (it worked).  Since I was interested in seeing a bit of the town before we left, I asked one of the crew members for ideas.  It turned out that I'd found one who’d grown up in Ushuaia and she told me about some good places to take photos.  I got back off the ship and wandered around the harbor area and edge of the commercial areas.  With mountains and glaciers to the north and the Beagle Channel and Chile to the south, the scenery was awesome.  Not wanting to miss anything (e.g., launching of the ship), I returned to the ship very soon after leaving it (1545).  Before we got underway, I spent time walking around, exploring and getting lots of photos.  At one point, I found myself at "The Hide", a solitary location on one of the lower decks.  I also checked in with guest services (Amir) and he loaded me up with more excursions than I’d expected.  At 1630, there was a ship wide drill and orientation from the Captain.  Continuing to explore, I engaged with crew members (who told me where to watch the ship’s launch), some scientists (at Expedition Central science fair) and some fellow passengers who remembered me from the plane.  During this whole phase, I asked lots of questions!  One interesting thing I learned about was that my Viking App had an art gallery function, meaning I could listen to a story about each piece of art.  While exploring, I found some cookies and lemonade - this cruise may turn out to be a trial of self control... "Polaris" left the Ushuaia pier at 1700 (I watched us pull away from land from a great position on the bow) and I then attended a “Sail Away” party that had begun on the stern. They gave us all champagne so we could celebrate the beginning of the Expedition - everyone was feeling very upbeat!  I met several members of the crew and enjoyed the pleasant sea air as we headed east through the Beagle Channel.  Having recently completed Charles Darwin’s book about his voyage on the “Beagle”, it was interesting to compare his narrative with reality.  Afterwards, I enjoyed music by a Classical Duo (strings) in the Aula (auditorium) before heading to the World Cafe for some dinner (1800).  I explored all the food options before settling on some sushi and sashimi (I also tried some swordfish).  Tonight I learned how good the dining/drinking package with Viking was: I was given complimentary Rioja wine and some Grimbergen Double Amber beer - the servers would not stop offering drinks!.  Moving along, I found lots more food that I'll have to try during the next week.  Wrapped up my meal with some pasta and dessert.  Before leaving the dining area, I did some texting with Eileen and my daughters.  Overall, I was pleased to note that I didn’t gorge myself or imbibe as heavily as would have been possible because I still had things I wanted to do before sunset.  Returning to the upper decks, I was disappointed to find that the crew had secured them (due to winds).  Fortunately, there are plenty of windows and I still got some nice views.  The scenery of both the Argentinian and Chilean coasts was breathtaking from several of the common areas.  Strangely, I found many places to be completely deserted - perhaps everyone was getting an early bedtime in preparation for tomorrow?  Not me!  Wanting to see if my bags had been delivered to my stateroom (they had been), I spent a little time with the open balcony window.  The air was cool and the sea sounds made me sleepy.  Watching the huge numbers of soaring albatrosses also tempted me to retire for the evening.  But I wasn’t finished with my exploring!  During this time, I unpacked my bags, stowed my gear, tried some of the complimentary mini-bar snacks and drinks, reviewed the “Viking Daily” (newsletter) and planned for my day tomorrow (there were lots of mandatory training and orientation sessions).  It started to get a bit foggy but the sun stayed out well past 2100.  When I left my room again, I found more people had begun to congregate in one of the bars - these drinks, however, were NOT free.  In that same area, a fellow passenger told me he was interested in playing one of the table-top video poker games so I joined him.  It’s a good thing the money was pretend because neither of us beat the house.  The countless library books caught my attention and I took one with me to read later.  Continuing my walkabout, I managed to locate almost everything of interest (to me) before we entered the open ocean.  By then, I realized I’m going to be forced to recall my sea legs from Navy days - this ship certainly doesn’t have the stability of a CVN...  Regardless, this definitely won’t be “Haze Gray & Underway”!  After returning to my room for good, I watched a movie, did some blogging and social media, laid out my excursion gear (prep for biosecurity screening the next day) and read.  By then (2300), The Drake Passage crossing had begun.  According to everything I've heard/read, it can be hit or miss on waves/wind/etc.  Initially, though, my sleep began with some pleasant, lulling swells - the next 24 hours may be “interesting”...

Antarctica Trip - Day 2

We continued flying all night and there was a two hour time change (+2) awaiting our landing. I slept fitfully, especially before 0330, but eventually got *some* rest.  My aisle seat was kind of a liability, though, because almost everyone who passed bumped part of my anatomy.  It wasn’t very quiet, either...  At around 0500, I woke up and started watching episodes of “The Morning Show”.  The flight attendants came around at 0630 with breakfast (yogurt, granola, fruit bar, orange juice) and people gradually opened their windows to the bright morning.  We landed in Buenos Aires just before 0800 (local time) - pilot made a “swervy landing”.  My AT&T account once again provided free phone service in Argentina - nice!  As we got off the airplane, I was surprised by how warm and humid it was.  I made my way to Immigration and didn’t have too much difficulty (through by 0830).  After walking to baggage claim, I found my duffel bag very quickly (one strange thing, though, was that American Airlines later emailed to tell me my bag was delayed).  I had to pass through one more checkpoint (Customs) but was completely through the security exit by 0900.  Almost immediately, I started seeing people with Viking signs and they directed me down the airport concourse to a waiting bus.  I was able to board quickly but then had to wait on everyone else from the same flight to arrive - the early bird did not get the worm for once...  As a result, it was 1000 before we left the airport property.  While waiting, I met several of the other passengers (all couples, all older, all with dozens of cruises under their belts) and quickly determined that I was probably going to be one of the only a few “rookies” on our cruise ship.  Since the airport I used today (Ezeiza International Airport) was different from the one I used during my last visit (Jorge Newbery Airfield), the scenery was different during our drive into the heart of Buenos Aires.  There was evidence of recent rain on the roads and the sky was overcast.  One of the Viking Team members (Victoria) talked to us about the city on the way.  We arrived at the Hilton Hotel in Puerto Madero at around 1045 and I checked in with some Viking staff members in the lobby.  I then proceeded to the Viking Orientation table and learned more about the next 18 to 24 hours of my trip.  The rooms weren’t ready yet so I left my bags with the Viking team, changed into a short sleeved shirt and considered my options.  Despite running on fumes after my 36 hours of transit to South America, I decided to venture into the Central Business District before forecasted rain arrived.  Just after exiting the hotel, I noticed a place to eat, Dandy Deli, that was located just across the street so I headed there to pick up some food to go (1120).  They had a special of two empanadas (one carne and one jamon y queso), some fries and a can of soda - the price was good.  After scarfing down one of the empanadas, I walked across the canal and (from memory) located the Obelisk.  Compared to home, the temps and humidity south of the equator were downright tropical - they are having a hot/wet summer weather and my clothes were soon wet from my exertions in the conditions...  Along the way, I had to pause at a lot of crosswalks but, eventually, I was finally able to cross Avenida 9 de Julio and the navigation got easier.  During my 2022 visit to Buenos Aires, I saw a lot of sights and did a lot of the things that were described in my City Guidebook.  Two things that weren’t possible (due to running out of time) were a tour of Teatro Colon and exploring the neighborhood of San Telmo.  Today, I was able to do both!  First, I stopped at the former location to learn about the possibility of a tour (1145).  Unlike during my last visit, I was in luck and managed to buy a ticket (with an English guide) for a tour scheduled for about two hours later.  Since it wasn’t raining yet, I ate my lunch (the second empenada and the fries) on a bench in the Parque Lavalle.  Afterwards, I walked around the area, looking for things to see and do before my tour.  As usually happens when I’m traveling, people stopped me to ask for directions.  I didn’t feel entirely comfortable using my Spanish, unfortunately (learning Portuguese may be mixing up my memories) so could only reply "No sei."  Along the way, I looked inside a free museum that was located within the historic Teatro National Cervantes and checked out the tickets for a nearby Tango venue.  For the latter activity, the timing didn’t work to attend during my short stay in the city.  It started to rain so I made my way back to Teatro Colon to wait in a dry area.  I was thinking how lucky I was that I'd previously visited Bs. As - fortunately, I’ve already seen most of the nearby attractions.  While relaxing, I suddenly realized that I’d miscalculated the number of days of my trip (because I hadn’t noticed the overnight flight).  This mean that my Dartmouth Coach ticket was for the wrong day and my leave request wasn't long enough.  Because of the good mobile phone service, I was able to contact work, my neighbors and the Dartmouth Coach to rearrange everything without much difficulty.  Relieved, I got in line for my tour (1315) and ended up talking to a nice older (octogenarians) couple who were almost done with 50 days of vacation in Chile and Argentina - they were very interesting people.  At 1330, I eagerly joined an English speaking guide (Vanessa) as she led us through the beautiful Teatro Colon.  Like much of the other architecture in the city, the Theater was inspired by European buildings.  With elaborate faux-marble wall designs, majestic columns and colorful paintings, visitors would be sure to be impressed by the lobby and social areas.  But the auditorium itself, with amazing acoustics and classical layout, blew me away.  Our guide said the Theater is “Number 1” in the world for Opera - she added that the performance quality and ambiance are second to none and I can well believe that.  Tickets are hard to get (lots of competition for affordable seats) but visiting the Theater alone might make a trip from the US worthwhile.  After the awesome tour ended (1430), I started walking back towards Puerto Madero.  It was no longer raining, fortunately, but it was very muggy.  There was a huge line for empanada truck (!) - I considered seeing what the hoopla was but decided my time was too short to waste on something like that.  I had to cross lots of busy streets again but eventually got on Aveninda Roque Sainz Peña.  From there, I walked to Plaza de Mayo and then took Bolivar.  I wandered deep into San Telmo, marveling at the Old World feel of the neighborhood and its churches.  Like I’ve felt about other parts of this amazing city, it’s easy to forget what continent I’m on when turning down an old side street.  I got some good looks at the pretty balconies above the street in the rows of old homes and stopped in for a look at the little church of San Ignacio.  Next, I turned east at Avenida Independencia.  Crossing the canal at one of the southern most bridges, I made my way back towards the Hilton.  Just before arriving, I stumbled across a memorial to Anne Frank.  I made it into the lobby at 1530 but then had to wait in a big line to get my room key (grrrr).  Feeling tired and cranky after so much traveling, I still managed to bite my tongue while dealing with the staff.  Finally, I was in my room at 1615 - yaaay!  I spent the next two hours getting cleaned up, repacking, catching up on reading, Duolingo and replying to some texts from my daughters. Feeling better, I left the hotel at 1815 and walked across the canal to locate a restaurant recommended by the Viking Team: Cabana Las Lilas.  I sat outside because the weather had turned rather tropical (pleasant).  Many of the other patrons were American and weren’t trying to use Spanish at all.  Meanwhile, I struggled along, fooling neither Roberto (who didn’t speak English at all) or his replacement, Jonas (who did).  Still, as the evening wore on I started to feel like I could get some of the language back before the trip was done...  Dinner began with a huge appetizer platter (I think it was called “entretenimientos”) that had all kinds of items (Pan Casaro, mousselines, pan de queso, pan de fecula, caprese salad, olives, cremas, escabeches y marinadas).  It was an optional add on but, of course, I had to try it!  For my first course, I had the Ensalada Especial Las Lilas (lettuce with avocados, tomatoes and other items) and, for my second, I had the house Wagyu Burger with puffy fries (papas soufflé).  I also enjoyed a glass of (Argentinian) Saint Felicien Malbec.  My meal dinner was topped off with a dessert of Volcan de Dulche de Leite.  After nearly two days of traveling, this was a feast and all of it tasted great.  When I paid, I was pleased to discover that I was able to use a credit card along with US dollars for a tip (they are highly valued in Buenos Aires).  I departed the restaurant at 1945, which was just in time because it started raining right then.  Fortunately, I managed to make it back to the Hilton before I needed my umbrella (or got soaked).  As requested by the Viking Team, I dropped my checked bag off at the Concierge (to save time in the morning) and spent the rest of the evening blogging, reading and relaxing.  I was also able to check in with Eileen, which was nice.  Due to feeling a couple of days’ worth of fatigue, I went to bed early (2130).  Departing in the morning for points further south but glad I got more Buenos Aires time today!

South America Trip - Day 19

Somehow, after all of yesterday's walking, I still woke up at 0545.  I finished packing and left a tip in the room for the nice folks who'd been taking care of me (0700).  I then headed down to the main level.  Last night, I had issues with confirming my flight to Rio.  Fortunately, both Booking.com (website) and GOL Airlines (Facebook Messenger) sent messages to me that helped to sort out the problem.  In the lobby, I was able to thank Mateo and Gonzalo for their services and then paid for my room (0715).  The staff let me store my bags in the lobby while I went to breakfast (cereal, pastries).  The hotel also set up a shuttle for me at 0800 but it didn't arrive on time.  When I checked with Gonzalo on the status, he prompted the driver, who finally showed up at 0815.  After that, I said goodbye to the Ramada and we got on the road towards Aeroparque Jorge Newberry.  I'd learned that Buenos Aires actually has two separate airports (one for domestic and one for international) but I lucked out by getting to use the same one leaving the country as when I'd arrived on December 12.  On the flip side, I remembered (as we drove) that this was the first flight on the trip that I’d scheduled without the help of the USAA Travel agent and it felt a bit risky to be using the airline (GOL)... Still, the weather was beautiful and the taxi ride went relatively smoothly.  As we drove, I started to wish that I had more time in this amazing city - I'll definitely have to return!  The driver dropped me off at the Departures terminal (0835) and I quickly found the GOL desk.  It was mobbed with people and I gradually deduced that there was another (earlier) flight that was being handled.  When I asked about the best thing to do, I was told to wait until exactly three hours before takeoff.  Since this was still about 60 minutes later, I killed time by trying to figure out whether I could get any Argentinian taxes reimbursed.  By the time I eventually found an actual person to assist me, I learned that I couldn’t get money back because I hadn’t done the entire, complex process correctly.  Oh well...  After that, I sat in a chair and watched some guys who were shrink wrapping any bags people had brought (for a fee) - I ended up seeing a lot of hiker backpacks getting “mummified." Just before 0940, I got in a line just outside the official check-in queue and waited for my own flight to be called.  It probably took 20 minutes more before the entire line of passengers for São Paulo was finished and then most of the agents took a 10 minute break (only one stayed behind in case late São Paulo passengers arrived).  At 1015, our own queue finally began to move - I felt fortunate to be near the front and got checked in easily (once again, two pieces of baggage checked for free).  I then navigated my way to the International departure area and proceeded through security (they were quite serious) and Argentina Immigration.  By 1045, I had made it through to the gates and felt a bit better about the way things were going.  I ate a snack in the area near Gate 17 (where my boarding pass said I should be waiting) and used a phone charger nearby.  During this time, I noticed a gentleman with an iPad who was walking nearby and realized I’d seen him at the Buquebus terminal the day before.  It turned out that he was a representative of Argentina’s Tourism Board and he asked me to take a brief survey about my time in Argentina (I obliged him).  At the scheduled boarding time, I noticed that the gate was still completely deserted and decided to check out Gate 20 (a status board showed that was where the flight would be).  I found a huge line of people there and noticed the distinctive orange of the GOL logo nearby. From this point, time seemed to stop...  I noticed many of the same agents here that I’d seen at the check-in counter (small staff?) but no announcements of any kind were made during the next hour.  I actually could see the plane (B737-800) outside the window but nothing happened when the departure came and went.  Eventually, I got the gist of the situation from watching the expressions of others: we’d had a mechanical problem that was needed to be resolved.  Eventually, the agents started checking people in (before the gate even opened) and finally (1300), we were allowed to board. We then managed to get everyone seated and the doors were actually closed (the plane wasn’t completely filled).  At that point, though, I heard announcements in Spanish and Portuguese that the Argentine Federal Police wanted to re-check all of the carry-on bags! With many groans, everyone got their stuff and we started walking up the jetway.  Midway, however, we were told to turn around and return to our seats. I’d only half understood what was happening and tried to get more info from nearby passengers.  In the end, as best I can figure, everyone accepted the random and unexplained disruption with phrases like “it is better not to ask”...  Once on the plane again, there was another delay before a large number of extra passengers arrived.  My guess is that this was partly the source of all the other issues (the airline and security didn’t want to depart with a partially full aircraft).  We finally departed at around 1350.  I had a window seat and got to see some of the northern suburbs of Buenos Aires during the climb out - I’m not 100% sure but I think I also saw Colonia as we crossed the delta if the River Plate.  The only outlets were strange “USB” ports which (again) wouldn’t work for me.  We got snacks on the plane but the flight was otherwise uneventful.  We landed at Galeo Airport in Rio de Janeiro at 1650.  Once I was off the plane, I found that I had a LONG walk to immigration.  Luckily, the line for foreigners was not long.  I retrieved my bags and then proceeded through  customs quite quickly.  My first attempt to get cash initially failed (there was, apparently, a problem with the computer).  Instead, i snaked through a huge Duty Free area.  Once outisde the Security Zone, I started getting harassed by taxi drivers - they followed me all the way through terminal and almost demanded that I used their services.  I managed to find an ATM at 1710 and took out some Reals (first time using my credit card to get cash).  After that, I managed to set up an Uber but then had to find the place where they were waiting.  On the way to that location, I got even more harassment from drivers - wow!  I eventually found my Uber and we left the airport.  By then, it was raining and I discovered that the driver (Vitor) didn’t speak English.  And it was already getting dark!  We made good time from the airport to Copacabana Beach, fortunately.  Along the way, I saw the Christ the Redeemer statue and Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf).  It appeared to be "rush hour" because everywhere we went had busy streets. I was able to chit chat a bit with driver and was impressed by his driving skills - I got lots of evidence that the Rio drivers were crazy...  We arrived at my hotel (Mercure) at around 1815 and I was quite pleased to find that the place was right on the beach (on Avenida Atlantica).  While trying to check in, I had trouble with my credit card initially.  I was also faced with a question about "Real charge versus US dollars" and then discovered that the hotel had own conversion rate - I chose the Real rate and it turned out to be much better in the end.  I actually had to call my bank to sort things out before the card finally worked (1900).  Before going to my room, I talked to the desk staff (Lorena, Guy and “Peter Parker”) about arranging tours (etc.).  After stashing my stuff and changing in to "beach attire", I went downstairs again and went outside to look for a beer.  It was still raining a little bit so I ducked into the first place I found - a little beach bar called Mar de Copa.  By then, it was already dark but I still had a nice view of the sand and palm trees.  I ordered a small glass of Chopp (local Pilsner) that was on Happy Hour special and later got a 600ml Brahma Duplo Malte to go with some fried shrimp.  The waiter was quite nice and we talked about beer, Rio and Miami (his daughter was born there).  The ambience and music were also good and I took my time, relaxing.  I found that my seat location in the bar allowed for some harmless vendor harassment but vowed to do better in choosing a table.  I finally finished up my evening at 2050.  As I was leaving, a guy chased after me on the way out (he called me “Boss”) but I didn’t understand what he wanted so continued across the street.  Once in my hotel room again, I watched some videos on my phone (first time on the trip) until I got sleepy.  Went to bed at 2215.  Really excited to be in this iconic place!

South America Trip - Day 18

Adventure in Uruguay! Before leaving on this trip, I’d discovered that day trips were possible from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, by means of a fast catamaran (Buquebus) that daily crosses the large bay of the Rio de La Plata delta. However, I was hesitant to buy tickets or build plans around such an excursion, mostly because of a concern I didn’t really have enough time while in Buenos Aires. After getting a huge amount of walking yesterday, though, I figured I would give the ferry a chance. First challenge: the Buquebus website was tough to use with an iPhone and gave conflicting information about ticket availability. My friend from the Patagonia trip, Tony, texted that he and Shelly had been unable to get any tickets themselves so were not planning on going to Colonia. I didn’t give up so easily - instead, I went down to the lobby and asked the clerk (Mateo) for help. He was able to find me a round trip ticket that left Buenos Aires at 1215 and returned at 2030. But then I hit the second challenge: when we tried to make the payment online, it didn’t work. At the time, I suspected that it was the website. Mateo suggested that I walk down to the ferry terminal (only six blocks away) and ask for assistance. Before leaving, I got breakfast (cereal, pastries, fruit) in the hotel dining room. Then (0715), I got on my way! The morning weather was completely different than the previous day: it was cool (50s), overcast and breezy. Almost everyone else but me was bundled up for the nasty (for here) weather. After cutting south to Cordoba, I walked straight east to the Buquebus Terminal on the north end of Puerto Madero. When I arrived, the 0830 ferry was loading and it was crazy busy. I asked for some help but no one spoke English. Fortunately, one of the nice ladies working there knew about a large, English-speaking tour group nearby with a bilingual leader. Through their their combined help, I ended up in the correct line. It took a little while to reach the Sales counter so I checked my phone for messages - it was only then that I realized that the earlier charge had been blocked by my bank. Fortunately (again), I was able to validate the vendor and (after one clerk set up my ticket and sent me to the payment center) was ultimately able to get my round trip tickets (0800). The itinerary was called something like a “Tourist” fare (one day, out and back). Relieved that I’d actually been able to complete the process, I next had to kill about two hours. Since walking is usually my thing, I just headed east as far as the road would allow and found a street that abutted the city port (route blocked by security) and a wildlife sanctuary. I followed this street to the south and got to see a lot of interesting birds that were resting in the marshy areas along the Rio de La Plata (the river itself was not visible). After a little while, I turned back to the west and explored the canals and shopping areas of Puerto Madero. Highlights: got photos of the Puente de Las Mujeres (being repaired) and an old sailing ship; looked around inside a McDonalds (they have some different food and “all day” options). By 1000, I’d made it back to the ferry terminal and settled in for what I thought would be a long wait. I picked up some food, in case I couldn’t get lunch later (1025), and charged my phone. Just a little while later, I saw a crowd of people moving towards the Embarkation area and decided to follow. After I snaked through a long queue, a lady scanned my ticket and then handed me a boarding pass and something called a Control Manga. From this area, I had to go to the second floor of the terminal, where I cleared both Argentinian (photo, fingerprint) and Uruguayan (loud stamp in my passport) customs. During this time, I saw the first of several instances during the day when security gave great deference to older persons and mothers - both got to go straight to the head of the line and no one (at all) objected. I also started noticing some fellow Americans - they were easily distinguishable because of their face masks and COVID-19 vaccine cards… After I got through with Immigration, I got to wait in a big room for about an hour. At around 1130, someone must have noticed the Buquebus ferry (“Atlantic III”) coming into the harbor because a wild stampede began to queue into three lines. Of course, I followed the leaders and then got to stand around for another 30 minutes while the catamaran docked. At around 1205, the lines started moving and we all handed one of our slips of paper (Control Manga) to the agents near the entrance of the boarding gate. From there, it was organized chaos through a LONG maze of gangways. When I finally got onboard, I found a store, restaurant and dining area (and bathrooms). The seats looked comfortable but the windows were frosted. Since I already knew we couldn’t stroll around on the deck, I gave up any illusions of taking photos and just tried to find a seat. Most of the good ones were already taken so I sat down in a cushioned seat near a group of families with small children. The ferry departed a bit late (1230) and I settled into my chair to listen to an audiobook. About ten minutes later, a little girl (2 years old) started paying a lot of attention to me. Her mother kept apologizing to me, in Spanish, so I tried to tell her that it was ok because I have three daughters of my own. The few sentences we spoke could have ended the interaction (I apologized for not knowing a lot of Spanish) but the “Dad” of the family arrived shortly afterwards and (after his wife told him I was a dad of three girls) began talking to me in English. It turned out that Marco and Tatiana were financial advisers who split time between Uruguay (Montevideo) and Argentina (each has family in both countries). They often visit the US, mostly to ski, and asked me a lot of questions about my travels. They loved that I had seen so much of Patagonia and insisted that I should consider retiring in Uruguay (“just like all the other people from the US”). The conversion lasted so long that we were docking in Colonia before I knew it (almost an hour and a half had passed since I got on the boat). We debarked quickly (no customs needed) and I soon (1345) found myself in Uruguay! Almost no one spoke English in the terminal but I was able to get a map and instructions about how to find a restaurant that Tatiana had recommended to me (they go there every time they are in Colonia). I walked west from the ferry landing and entered the Barrio Viejo. This town, a Seventeenth Century colony of the Portuguese, was juggled between powers until the Spanish finally got the upper hand in 1777. There are actually homes and other types of buildings from the time of the earliest settlement and parts of the old city walls have been restored to their former greatness. As I started my informal walking tour, it was still cool, breezy and overcast but I was comfortable in my shorts and t-shirt. The ocean looked angry, though… I got a little more information about the town at the Cultural Center and then checked out the old lighthouse (Faro). After that, I proceeded to the El Charco Bistro. On the way, I passed SO many tour huge Brazilian your busses! Once I got inside, I was able to find a young waitress who understood English and settled into my seat at a bar counter that faced the ocean. It was a great view and my mood improved even more when I learned that there was a local craft brewery (Maltik) with some beers on tap. I ended up ordering a Belgian Ale and an Irish Red. For my late lunch (I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast), I tried the house rolls with a tangy olive oil called Coratina - it was good. For my entree, I had the Poke Bowl with salmon, over rice, and lots of veggies. It was amazing and I scarfed it down with chopsticks. To top off the meal, I ate a dessert called “Volcano de Dulce” (melted chocolate and caramel with a side of ice cream). Outstanding meal, overall! When it was time to pay, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to add a tip to my credit card bill (1525). Near the end of the meal, I noticed that a guy my age was sitting nearby and politely smiling whenever I tried to use my Spanish with the waitress. We struck up a conversation and he (Julian) told me he was a contractor with the US CDC (epidemic research) and was always looking for ways to practice his English to improve his job skills. For a little while, we took turns describing our travels in alternating languages. Julian’s English was much better than my Spanish but he thanked me for making the effort. As I was leaving, I asked the waitress where I could go for a good walk along the shore and she pointed me towards a route called Rambla Cristobal Colon. It took a bit of walking to reach it but I used my paper map (I didn’t initially have cell service) as I navigated through streets with large trees over them. The houses of the town were all very colorful and I saw lots of old cars and “community dogs.” I passed a school with kids playing all kinds of outdoor sports and then continued west towards the far end of the cove/harbor - there was supposed to be an old bullfighting ring there and I wanted to see it. Along the way, I noticed (in the distance) the skyline of Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, after only a kilometer of walking, it started to rain. Not wanting to be wet and miserable, I turned around and then walked back to the port. The precipitation must have only been concentrated to the west of me because I never felt any more rain for the rest of the day. I walked through a busy shopping district on the main street and changed some of my Argentinian Pesos into Uruguayan Pesos. Back in the old part of town, I spent a little time near a pretty church and the ruins of the governor’s palace. By about 1730, I felt like I’d seen almost everything of interest (it then made sense that the guy at the Cultural Center had said “Monday, everything is closed”). Backtracking to the old city walls, I used all of the Uruguayan pesos I had (and some Argentinian) to treat myself at a Heladera that claimed to be the best in Colonia (1745). As with most ice cream, I really can’t argue… While I was sitting outside the Heladera, the sun came out and warmed up the town considerably. I watched whole families (of four!) riding around on the cobbled streets in their Vespas and golf carts. It was getting late by the time I finished eating and then the “fun” began again. With a bit of apprehension (that I might not have correctly understood all the procedures for returning to Buenos Aires), I returned to the ferry terminal at 1830. I’d noticed before that there were several companies with ferries coming/going and I wasn’t completely sure which people to emulate! As soon as I saw movement towards the security line, I checked in for my return ride on the Buquebus and proceeded through the immigration checkpoint. Unlike the departure process, there was only one group of officials - my heart sank to realize that I’d probably have a delay for customs when I reached Buenos Aires… In the waiting area, I sat quietly for around an hour until everyone seemed to spring out of their seats and queue up for departure. An older lady nearby was talking in English to some people and I heard her say “that is for the Colonia Express, 2015 Departure, and the Buquebus is behind that - you can relax!” I took her counsel to heart and felt like I was in good hands for making it back to my hotel. Actually, I ended up talking to the lady myself when (after I tried to speak Spanish to her) she determined I was from the US. Like everyone else I’ve met on this trip, she (and others around me) were quite helpful and gave me lots of suggestions for places to see/go in Argentina and Uruguay. I also talked to another English-speaking couple nearby - one of them was on a 10 Week (!!!) vacation. At 2030, my actual departure time, I got into a queue and started towards the loading ramp. Fortunately (yet again), one of the agents verified that I was on Buquebus just before I boarded the wrong ferry. He pointed to another line (not quite as long, luckily) and I sheepishly went to stand in it. At 2045, boarding began for Buquebus (“Atlantic III” again) and I made my way down the gangway to the correct boat. We departed just before 2100 and I relaxed/read as we re-crossed the River. As before, I really didn’t have any chance to take photos out the window (it was dark anyway). However, it was possible to see the bright skyline of Buenos Aires as we approached the city. The ride seemed to go more quickly and we were tied at the pier by around 2150. Only 10 minutes later, I was walking west on Cordoba - the immigration line went quite quickly (thanks to my Spanish!). I reached my hotel quickly (2215) and set up a shuttle to the airport for the following day. Spent another 30 minutes packing and then went to bed (2245). Over 10 miles of walking again - really glad I made the journey across the River Plate today!

South America Trip - Day 17

Full day in Buenos Aires! Afternoon rain was forecasted so I woke up at 0630 with plans to explore as much as possible before it arrived. Prior to today, I’d thought about riding the train to Tigre but then decided I didn’t have enough time to do that, take a ferry on the Rio de La Plata and still see all the major city landmarks listed in my guide book. I got some breakfast (cereal, eggs, pastries and some beet juice) at the hotel (0800) and then went to the lobby to get a few more ideas about areas to see and avoid. By 0830, I departed on my walk - I first headed north (after walking east on Paraguay to the first corner) towards Plaza San Martin (in the Retiro neighborhood). The weather was warm (60s) and a little breezy. I enjoyed having the streets mostly to myself early on a Sunday morning (my friends who are staying across town said that the partying near them didn’t end until 0600!). After getting photos of the liberating hero of Argentina, General San Martin, and some interesting architecture nearby, I started walking west on Avenida Santa Fe. Each block was full of color angst interesting businesses. I was able to keep going, despite crossing many major roads (Avenida 9 de Julio has about 16 lanes!) because the walk signs were mostly in my favor. For most of this excursion, I only referenced my paper map and the compass on my phone. With these tools, I easily reached Plaza Vicente Lopez y Planes, on the edge of the Barrio Norte neighborhood. There was an amazingly large tree in that park and, around it, a maze of roads that “spoked” outwards in every direction. So I checked my phone for navigation towards the Recoleta Cemetery. I eventually decided to use Avenida Gen. Las Hures and it took me most of the way there; at Junin, I saw the first signs of a high wall and walked in that direction. Arriving at 0915, I figured out how to buy a ticket (0915) and entered the expansive cemetery. Like I’d seen when I toured a similar place in Punta Arenas (on this trip), the families of Buenos Aires care so much about their deceased loved ones that they have gone “all out” in building monuments to them. Every mausoleum was stunning! Of course, the biggest and best had been made for the city’s (and country’s) elite: politicians, military leaders, doctors, lawyers, etc. I really didn’t know who many of these people were but walked on nearly every pathway (for almost an hour). Towards the end, I managed to locate the burial vault of “Evita” (Eva Duarte Peron); it was strewn with flowers and I had to wait behind a huge team of Futbol players to reach it. Satisfied I’d found the highlight of the cemetery, I departed to the north. On the way, I passed the Basilica Nuestra Senora de Pilar and noticed they had just started Mass. Since this seemed like a fortunate bit of timing, I joined in (and mostly followed through the Liturgy). At 1045, I left the church and continued north again, strolling through a sea of vendors who were setting up their little shops (the market looked like it would be HUGE). I soon found myself in Feria Artesanal Intendente Alvear, which (after walking a bit farther) helped me reach the Plaza Francia. On the way to Avenida Pres. Figueroa Alcorta, I passed the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and, a bit later, the Plaza Libres del Sud (it had a giant statue of a flower that was called “Floralis Generica”). I then walked to the northwest and passed through pretty groves of Jacaranda trees (with their pretty purple blossoms). Before long, I reached the MALBA (famous museum) and decided that I needed to turn west towards the Palermo neighborhood. At about that time, I noticed a huge line forming at the entrance to Jardín Japonés. This place was listed as a “Top 10” attraction in my guidebook so I paid the small fee to explore it (1115). For about an hour, I explored several pretty gardens and gardens - the place brought back happy memories of my visits to Japan… After leaving, I decided to try to find Plaza Italia (and look for lunch) and walked west on several side streets until I found Avenida Gen. Las Hures again. By now, my legs were getting tired and I hoped to rest. Unfortunately, the only thing I found at Plaza Italia was an area with huge green parks (i.e., no restaurants). I was going to turn around but I noticed that everyone was going inside one of the parks without paying. Following them, I found myself in the city’s old Zoo - it was recently converted into an “Eco Park”. I spent a little time exploring the place, noting several instances of statues and enclosures that belied the park’s former life. However, there were very few animal residents left - I did see peacocks, several kinds of birds, little monkeys and a few Patagonian Maras (cat-sized rodents). Since the vendors in the park only took cash (and I was short), I sat for a short time and ate an apple I’d brought. By now, the temps were in the high 70s but the rain had not appeared. Earlier, I’d thought about taking the Subway back towards my hotel (I was almost four miles away) but now it seemed possible to walk. Leaving the park, I spent the next hour crisscrossing the northern parts of Palermo and Barrio Norte (between Avenida del Liberator and Avenida Gen. Las Hures). I visited several small parks, enjoyed a mix of architectural styles and meandered towards the hotel. I passed a Heladera called “Chungo” that had a Visa (credit card) sign in the window - buying two scoops of gelato there (chocolate and lemon) really made my day (1315)! Since I’d missed seeing the Teatro Colon the previous day, I started a meandering path towards the southeast from Chungo. This walk took me through a large tourist shopping district (mostly stores and restaurants from the USA) and into Plaza Lavalle. The Teatro Colon was a massive architectural masterpiece and I hoped to be able to tour the interior. However, I learned that there were no more tours in English for the day and there was very little lighting anyway (they were doing maintenance). A bit disappointed, I reluctantly crossed Avenida 9 de Julio and made my way back to my hotel. In the lobby, I talked briefly with the clerk (Gonzalo) about a place where I could get dinner if it started raining. He recommended a place nearby and I then (1445) went to my room to rest. My pedometer said that I’d covered over 10 miles! It occurred to me that I’d felt quite safe throughout the day - the large number of police officers I’d seen probably made a difference. For the next few hours, I stayed off my feet and entertained myself with blogging and reading. At 1830, I left the hotel and walked about a block (through light sprinkles) to the restaurant recommended by Gonzalo: Parilla Cero5 (highly rated Asado). It was a small place and, even at the early hour, was quite busy. There was actually only one table available (for four) but I managed to snag it before anyone else saw it. It took a little while but my server (who looked swamped) eventually came unto take my order. Actually, he first apologized for the delay and I told him I was in no rush. This seemed to make him (he told me his name was Juan) happy and we shared a few laughs during the rest of the evening. Since I hadn’t really eaten a lot since breakfast, I ordered the Matrimonio (a cirrizzo and a black sausage) and mashed potatoes. To wash it down, I ordered a “grande” Quilmes Clasica (Argentinian beer). When Juan returned with the bottle, I was startled to see that it was a full Liter! Undeterred, I kept it at the table and spent over an hour trying to finish it (I couldn’t). The ambiance was nice, the food was good and Juan was an excellent (and VERY popular/busy) server. He explained some of the tipping rules (it can’t be added to a credit card charge and subsequently is considered, even by the waiters, as being optional) and shared some colloquial phrases used in Buenos Aires. I was finished at about 2000, paid (2000) and walked back (through steady drizzle) to the Wyndham. Spent the rest of the evening reading and prepping for a new adventure tomorrow. I’m still tired from all the walking I did but my Active Adventures friends (Tony and Shelly) asked me to join them on an excursion to Uruguay!

South America Trip - Day 16

Last day with the Active Adventures Group... I was awake by 0530 and did some more packing.  At 0715, went down to eat breakfast (cereal, eggs, meat, cheese, bread) with everyone else.  People started to leave (Alvaro first, then Kirk & Janice) soon after that.  Shaowen told me he couldn't pay for the coke he’d bought me the night before because the credit card machine was broken so I settled up with Rafael using the last of my Argentinian Pesos (0730).  Back in the dining area, I chatted with Tony & Shelly about life in the Plains States and family histories.  While we were still sitting there, Rafael helped people in two different groups celebrate their birthdays (music, cake with candles).  At around 0800, I went back to my room to rest until check out (1000).  When it was finally time to leave the Patagonia Queen Hotel, I returned to the lobby and hung out with Joanne and the eight people who had the same flight as me.  By 1030, Mariano had returned to the hotel and helped us load our stuff in his van.  We then drove to the El Calafate Airport.  The weather great again (50s) - we sure have been spoiled in Patagonia!  At the terminal, I was unloading my bag from the van when I realized that my suitcase wheels and zippers might be starting to fail - uh oh...  Inside, there was only one line - it was big but moving well - and it wasn’t difficult to figure out where to go.  When it was my turn to check in for my Aerolineas Argentinas flight (1100), things went much better than I’d expected.  Bottom line: I must have packed well because I was able to check both bags (one about 16 kg and the other 4 kg) and didn’t have to pay any extra fees.  Meanwhile, the big family group from New Mexico was forced to get into another line to pay (heavily) for their overweight luggage.  Meanwhile, I made my way (very quickly) through the security checkpoint and stopped at a small store to get some drinking water (1110).  A bit later, I found a charging station for my phone and got it back close to 100%.  This was important because the battery, which was showing signs of age before I left, has been draining even more quickly during the last few days.  I'd been a bit worried about connecting to the outlets in Argentina (220 VAC) but Tony had told me that my iPhone would be alright (he was correct).  By 1200, boarding commenced for our flight (B737-800 aircraft).  The queue was organized in four zones and my seat was in the last one.  In the end, the line moved slowly but pretty efficiently...  Along the way, I enjoyed watching a little girl with her grandpa getting royal treatment from the flight crew (I think it was her first flight).  Aboard the plane, I found myself three seats deep in a window seat - there was very little leg room.  We took off on time (1235) and departed El Calafate towards the north, across the Lago Argentino.  This provided us with spectacular views of all the peaks nearby (even as far away as Fitz Roy) before the cloud cover hid everything.  Throughout the flight, the crew made several multilingual announcements and this was helpful.  Lunch was snacks (nuts and yogurt bar).  Meanwhile, I spent most of the flight fidgeting in my seat, reading my Buenos Aires guide book and listening to part of an audiobook.  In the middle of the flight, we all joined in on a birthday celebration for someone who was turning 49 (that seemed to be a big milestone in Argentina).  At 1515, we began our approach to Buenos Aires (landing towards the southeast at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) and were treated to a wonderful view of the Rio de la Plata Delta and northwest suburbs of the city.  By 1545, we were at the gate.  Outside, it was clearly more warm and humid than I’ve seen for weeks and I was glad I’d worn a short sleeved shirt.  It took a while to reach the baggage claim area and then the process took longer than I’d hoped (start/stop).  After I got my stuff, I said goodbye to the other Active Adventures folks and started looking for a ride to my hotel. I’d initially tried to coordinate with my hotel (Ramada by Wyndham near Plaza San Martin) about a shuttle but learned it would cost over $30.  Instead, I decided to use the taxi fare calculator - there was a special QR code on the wall near the taxi stand that allowed visitors to pre-coordinate a fare with the drivers.  This produced a much more reasonable $15-$20 cost (complete with receipt).  At 1630, I made my way into the queue and ended up having to help some other English speakers to complete the process (I guess things aren't easy for the the internet challenged or iPhone illiterate).  Soon, I was in my taxi.  My driver was named Jorge and he didn’t speak a lot of English - I had to dig really deep to communicate with my limited Spanish.  Somehow, we had a great conversation about hiking, Patagonia, Iguazu, Buenos Aires and other Argentinian past times.  He got me to the hotel by 1655 and and I easily checked in (1700).  I was surprised to have a porter who wanted to assist me to my room (1715) - I took advantage of this perk and asked him to show me how to work the safe and find other items.  After quickly changing into "exploring" clothes, I went down to the lobby again and spoke with the clerk (Mateo) about safety of the neighborhood, breakfast, snacks & drinks in the room, Mass time for the church across the street and other sights.  He gave me a good map and lots of helpful advice.  After that, I proceeded west on Paraguay.  When I reached Avenida 9 de Julio, I walked south.  When I reached the Obelisk, I took lots of photos (and a video) of a joyous drum and dancing celebration.  While there, I was asked several questions by folks nearby and sheepishly had to admit that I didn’t speak Spanish very well. Nearby, I attempted to figure out how to use the Subway but, when I went down under the street, it was too difficult to understand without additional assistance.  Maybe tomorrow I can try again!  Back on street level, I took Avenida Pres. Roque Sáenz Peña and immediately found myself in the middle of an Empanada Festival.  Not feeling hungry yet, I didn’t buy any but stayed in the area so I could watch the cooks, vendors and crowds enjoying themselves.  I also texted Tony and Shelly about it (they were staying in another hotel nearby) and they later replied that they'd been there earlier in the afternoon.  At Plaza de Mayo, I got lots of photos (including one of General Belgrano and the Argentinian flag he’d created) and marveled at the architecture.  A highlight was examining the Pink House.  There were signs in several places with maps of the entire country that gave unmistakable signs that Portenos consider the Malvinas/Falklands to be part of Argentina.  I definitely did NOT ask questions or make comments about this...  Making my way further east, I reached the canal in Puerto Madero.  Exploring nearby, I found a restaurant (Happening) that appeared to be open for dinner - that was nice, because it was only 1830 and I'd expected to have to wait.  On the patio in the back of the restaurant, I sat down to eat and enjoyed a bottle of Malbec (2020 Zorzal Terroir Unico), various breads, Empanada Caseras Fritas and Rigatoni ‘Nduja.  While I was eating, the sun went down and I enjoyed the transition to cooler temps.  From my table, I was able to see lots of people on the boardwalk and, nearby, a tall, black and white bird (black crowned night heron?) fishing near the docks.  Mollie called and we talked for a while (it's nice to have such reliable AT&T International service!).  When I was finished (2005), I was disappointed that I couldn’t leave a tip on my credit card.  Since I didn't have any Argentinian pesos, I was a bit embarrassed.  However, it couldn't be helped...  Afterwards, I walked north and a bit west until I found the ferry landing for the Buquebus - I'm still hoping to use this boat to reach Uruguay.  Along the way, I overshot Paraguay and had to make my way (via zig-zag) back to my hotel.  This turned out to be a fortunate accident, however, because I encountered a kind of “Salsa Rave” as I was walking.  I stopped a while to watch the dancing and take in the sounds.  After one of the bands finished their set, I wandered further west and found lots of nice places to eat, drink and shop.  These places were quite near my hotel, which gave me the impression that I'd made a good choice.  In the lobby of the Ramada again (2045), I found a HUGE group of people checking into their rooms.  The clerk (Mateo) recognized me and asked about my excursion (I thanked him for the great advice).  Later, I had a problem with my key and had to make another trip to the lobby via the slow, tiny elevator - the stairs were closed except for emergencies.  Being on the 5th floor isn’t easy...  Back in my room, I relaxed and listened to my audio book until it was time for bed (2200).  With the hiking / biking / kayaking part of my trip complete, I'm going to have to find new ways to make sure I get exercise.  Fortunately, there is always walking...  More exploring tomorrow!

South America Trip - Day 15

Los Glaciares National Park Day 5!  Sadly, today’s hike to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado marked the last planned activity in our group itinerary.  It’s hard to believe that I’ve been in South America for almost two full weeks and that this phase of my adventure will end in less than 24 hours.  Focusing on the positive, I woke up ready to hike (0530), got my bags packed and went to the lobby for breakfast at 0630.  I was the only one there.  The hotel normally doesn’t open the buffet until 0700 but the clerk said I could start.  As usual, I had cereal, eggs, fruit and a ham/cheese sandwich.  Alvaro arrived soon afterwards and we chatted about the overall group mood.  Most everyone had expressed feelings of exhaustion but a few hardy souls wanted to get one more day on the trail. Those folks, along with a small group of moral supporters, arrived shortly afterwards.  I checked out of my room and received a note from the night clerk, Dondro, that contained helpful ideas about things to do in Buenos Aires.  By 0730, I met Luis, Alvaro, Julie and five other members of the group (Janice, Kirk, Tony, Kathy and Patty) so we could begin our hike.  First, we had to walk through the entire town of El Chalten, across the Rio Fitz Roy and another few hundred meters to reach the trailhead.  Along the way, we saw flamingos flying overhead - it seemed like a good sign.  We’d previously been told that the hike could be as long as 20 km but the odometer hadn’t even started!  Luis and Alvaro then explained that Active Adventures groups typically only climbed to a plateau about 2 km below the highest point and this made completing our hike seem more possible.  Actually, I would normally want to hike as much as possible but our bus back to El Calafate was scheduled to depart at 1400 - this made the pace an distance much more important than normal.  The temps were pleasant (50s), the sun was out and Cerro Solo, Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy were mostly visible.  As has happened many times on this trip, Alvaro shook his head about how nice our weather and views have been - apparently, such a stretch of “luck” is unheard of in Patagonia.  Regardless, I’ll take it!  Right at the entrance to the trail, we encountered an entire tree full of Astral Parakeets, chirping away.  Luis said that they like to eat dandelions on the ground and were waiting for us to pass.  We started a gradual climb after this and passed through low shrubbery for about a mile - Alvaro pointed out a particularly prickly plant he called the “Mother-in-Law Pillow" and we had a good laugh.  Nearby, Luis showed us some small, flowering plants called ladyslipper and anemone.  There were also Calafate bushes (minus the berries) everywhere on the hill.  Behind us, the full panorama of El Chalten and the Valle del Rio de Las Vueltas spread majestically below.  We next reached a grove of Lenga trees (very pretty) and learned more about the red-headed Patagonian Woodpecker.  They are quite territorial and will fight each other for control over an area of trees - today, one kept making a single knocking sound that indicated his displeasure about our presence.  Climbing higher, we saw huge balancing rocks, distant snowy peaks in nearly every direction and different angles of the nearer peaks.  Unfortunately, the clouds soon began to obscure our views of Fitz Roy and Torre.  The effect was interesting to watch but quickly diminished the entire purpose of our hike!  So, when we reached our first “official” mirador, we lost two members of our die hard group.  I wanted to keep going (and convinced a few others to follow) and was glad that Luis and Julie obliged.  In the front of the group, I walked close to Luis and learned about how the locals (with some help from the National Park rangers) manage forest fires and mountain rescues.  Luis happily described how, as a certified guide, he has authority to enforce park regulations.  In addition, he is very involved in the volunteer mountain rescue service in El Chalten - apparently, a major “skills” event was going to take place in town over the next few days and he was looking forward to attending.  Finally, we learned that many people - some he had guided but many more that he had never met - contact him for advice about the Patagonian backcountry.  In the typical fashion of the wonderful people who live in this region (“Hermanos en el Fin del Mundo”), he assists them all.  At about this time, we passed a sign that talked about being aware of “Vacas Salvajes”, which Luis explained were the local version of feral cows (grazing on the National Park since the land was privately owned).  Julie’s boyfriend (Pablo, a triathlete) came running by during this time and we marveled at his stamina and dedication.  Continuing on our hike, we traveled through an extremely deep forest that covered the lower side of Loma del Pliegue Tumbado.  When we reached the tree line, it became clear that we were definitely not going to see any more good views.  While we stood in a big clearing there, Luis pointed out many of the landmarks we’d seen during our visit to El Chalten and Los Glaciares National Park (Secciones Lago Viedma).  Since it was cooler (there was snow up there!) and rain appeared to be threatening, we began our descent.  As usual, our pace on the downhill was much faster - Luis, Janice, Kirk and I soon left the other three behind.  I’d asked Luis previously about how he got connected as a local guide with Active Adventures and he’d told me several details.  What he’d left out, however, was that he had designed the first Active itinerary and taken the company founder on the first trip.  He’d since taken many groups similar to ours into the wilds of Los Glaciares.  We all agreed that we owed our good times to him! After this, the rest of us continued talking about memories from our trip, Luis’ plans for the rest of the guiding season, movies and (mostly Janice and Kirk) plans after returning home.  On this last topic, I really had no interest in imagining being back in the USA.  However, my Canadian friends have truly made Halifax and the Nova Scotia northern shore sound very inviting and fun so I tried to live vicariously through their vivid happiness about work routines, date nights, outings with friends and holiday events.  Back in the field with the sign warning us about feral cows, we sat down to lunch (ham and cheese hoagie, lemon cake, “scooter pie” and trail mix).  The sun was still shining but clouds were closing in from all directions.  Suddenly, a group of hikers with huge backpacks and snowshoes came out of the woods nearby - the guide knew Luis and they talked excitedly for a little while.  To us, the other group’s guide sang Luis’ praises, calling him the “Emperor of Chalten”.  This isn’t the first time he’s gotten good reviews when we’ve encountered guides so I’m sure we definitely had “the best” during our visit.  Soon after that, we put our backpacks on again and continued down the mountain.  In a slippery place, I almost fell face-first in the mud (VERY close call) but I otherwise enjoyed the walk.  I’d gotten a few comments during the last two hikes that my boots looked like something was wrong with them - it appears I may have blown out the bottom left side of my right boot.  Fortunately, this was the last time I will definitely need them… Actually, though, these Ozark Trail Hikers hold up to a lot of wear and tear and logged more than 100 miles on this trip!  During the rest of the hike, we watched condors and kestrels soaring overhead, European Hares scampering, glacial rivers cascading and pretty mountain flowers swaying in the breeze.  We stopped at the National Park Visitors Center when we reached the bottom of the trail.  They had some information about the park there but the building seemed to be mostly just a place for mountaineers to register their climbs and for other visitors (on big tour buses) to learn about a short (10 minute) walk they could take to reach an overlook view of the town. Why anyone would come all this way to just do that one “nature walk” and leave immediately is beyond me…. Walking back to our hotel through town, I took some photos of signs and a giant wood carving of a backpack.  At one point, I took a left turn when I should have gone right and Julie (who had caught up to me and was telling me more about Buenos Aires) tried to steer me in the correct way.  However, she then checked herself and said it was ok for us to continue.  At first, I thought it was because all roads eventually must lead to El Barranco but she then started quizzing me about whether I had been in the area before.  All of this mysterious behavior became clear when we came to a corner and she said, quite matter of factly, “this is my coffee shop” (!).  None of us had realized that her guide duties were only part time and initially thought she meant it was her favorite.  However, we eventually came to understand that she was saying she OWNED it!  It was a cute little place and I felt bad we hadn’t known enough to visit it during our four days in town.  Next time!  By 1335, we reached the hotel (after completing about 10 miles of hiking) and that the van (for our trip back to El Calefate) had arrived and was already loading up baggage.  I sat down in the lobby to change shoes and my shirt and quickly got the feeling (mostly from the non-hikers) that we needed to get on the bus NOW.  I barely managed to get my bag, provide a tip for our two guides (1350), use the rest room and grab some snacks before the van (the biggest and fanciest we’ve yet seen) began rolling out of town (1400).  Still riding a high from getting one more hike before the trip was over - what a nice way to end my visit to this amazing town and region!  Our driver (Mariano, who we’d met during the excursion to Perito Merino Glacier) quickly drove us south, along the edge of Lago Viedma, on Ruta 23.  It soon started to rain (but not heavily)… We switched to Ruta 40 and made a quick stop at Hotel La Leona (1515).  Back in the bus after less than 10 minutes, we continued to the southwest.  I’d hoped to listen to my audiobook during the ride but found that my digital library loan had expired (dang).  Fortunately, I’d previously retrieved my Buenos Aires visitor guide and used this opportunity to review it.  Meanwhile, everyone else slept… After reaching Ruta 11, we drove west into El Chalten (1700).  Rafael and his staff were waiting for us at the Patagonia Queen Hotel and, within minutes, we were in our rooms.  I spent the next few hours getting re-packed for the next transition of my trip - fortunately, it was easy to separate hiking/not-hiking gear in my bags.  At 1910, our group met in the lobby to thank Alvaro for his fine attention in organizing our wonderful trip.  He made some remarks about how he was glad about the good group synergy we had and Rafael made videos.  I learned later that this was the first time the Active Adventures group had been able to do all the “normal” things (read: amenities) that Rafael likes to provide since the start of the COVID-19 restrictions.  We next adjourned to a small room in the back of the hotel that included a large oven - Mariano (apparently the local Jack of All Trades) was hard at work in there, cooking as much meat as I’ve ever seen on a grill.  This was the first time we’d been treated to a meal that was only for us and the resulting ambiance was quite nice.  Of course, the Asado was even better!  We had salad, potatoes, bread, homemade empanadas (ground beef with olives), sausages, “Meatza” (meat with cheese on top, sliced thinly) and several other delicious (and well seasoned and grilled) cuts of beef.  Our Canadian friends ordered some more Malbec and I tried some more - it’s growing on me… There were speeches and toasts and sharing of addresses - the kinds of farewell activities warmly shared between life long friends.  The feast was topped off by four flavors of gelato/ice-cream.  It was great to watch Mariano, Alvaro and Rafael (and the latter’s son, Tomas) working together to share a big slice of Patagonian hospitality with our group!  By 2045, most everyone started heading to their rooms (hugs all around) but I stayed at the bar for another 45 minutes with Kirk & Janice, Tony & Shelly and Shaowen.  For much of this time, we spoke about travel and family.  By 2130, I was in my room again, prepping for my flight to Buenos Aires tomorrow.  Alvaro stopped by to chat at around 2300 and we drank a beer (Patagonian Amber Lager) in the second floor recreation room while discussing good activities for my later visit to Rio.  I’m genuinely going to miss seeing Alvaro each day and I hope I’ll someday be able to visit and/or take another tour with him again.  I retired to my room just before midnight and went to bed at 0020.  What a day, what a trip, what an adventure!

South America Trip - Day 14

Los Glaciares National Park Day 4!  Somehow, I’m still not sick yet.  Most of the rest of the group except for me, Janice and Kathy have come down with the nagging cough - two of the older guys have missed several days of events.  Earlier, I thought this cold may have traveled with us from the USA but now it appears to be widespread in El Chalten (other hikers have it).  Riding in the van and sitting near people in restaurants has made me feel sure I’m next but, perhaps, the exercise I’m getting every day in the mountain air is counteracting the other factors.  My day started a bit later (woke at 0630) and I met everyone for breakfast (cereal, fruit, eggs, meat/cheese sandwich) in the El Barranco lobby at about 0715.  By 0800, we (12 members of the group) loaded up in the van for our day’s adventure on the north end of the National Park.  Actually, we crossed the official park boundary (on to private land) again, drove north of El Chalten for about 40 km and arrived at the southern end of Lago del Desierto at around 0920.  One thing that was completely different about today was the fact that our driver (Augustin) had brought a huge trailer full of mountain bikes!  After parking at the Base Camp for hikes to Glaciar Huemul, we first took a short walk to an overlook over the lake.  At that point, we were only about five miles from the Chile-Argentine border but the crossing was only accessible by boat (and then by foot) in the summertime.  Luis told us that a location nearby was the scene of a small but violent skirmish between border patrol teams on November 6, 1965.  The situation eventually led to rapport and resolution, fortunately, but is still remembered as an unnecessary tragedy.  Back at the van, Augustin and Julie helped fit us with all the gear we needed for our 20 km bike ride.  Our guides provided brand new (18 speed) mountain bikes (complete with a modern shock absorber system), helmets, biking gloves, water bottle and reflective belts.  After a safety brief from Luis, we were ready to go!  At first, I had some trouble with the bike I’d been given - the seat was too low (I fixed that) and the brakes made loud squealing sounds when applied.  For the latter problem, I ended up having to wait for our “Sag Wagon” (Augustin) to help - he ended up giving me a different bike that worked just fine afterwards.  Armed with new equipment, I made my way towards the front of the group (Ed led the way and Janice/Kirk, Shelly/Tony followed close behind).  Unlike most of my previous mountain bike rides (on nice crushed stones or pavement) the riding surface was made out of huge stones that probably came out of the river.  Rolling over them was rather unpredictable and I had to concentrate A LOT (result = few photos).  But I eventually got the hang of things. We made stops at several waterfalls (one had some pretty red flowers called “tears of the stream”) and at a memorial for the 1965 conflict.  After that, though, Luis gave us free reign in a few places and those of us who bike more often had a great time racing on the gravel roads.  We did have to watch out for oncoming cars but we successfully avoided problems.  Our weather was great (50s and clear), scenery was awesome (high peaks on either side of the valley) and the bikes worked well (by the end, I was digging the shocks!).  After passing Laguna Condor, we began to watch for signs of the Huemules Reserve, a private resort (and residential) area near the road crossing of the Rio Electrico.  When the front-runners arrived (1245), Luis showed us where to put our bikes and where our group picnic would be.  After everyone else (including our van) arrived, Augustin and Julie set up a huge lunch spread.  While they were busy, we walked to the Huemules main building so we could take a tour of their museum.  Inside, we found a very nice series of displays that covered the natural sciences (and some local history) of the Reserve.  By 1315, it was time to eat and we got to enjoy a typical Argentinian picnic: fruits, empanadas (meat and veggie), assorted meats and cheeses, chocolate and potato chips.  Topping off the meal was a big can of Imperial Lager (Cerveza Extra), an Argentinian beer.  At about 1430, Luis and Alvaro suggested that we begin our second planned event in the area: a hike to the Laguna Azul and Laguna Verde.  We just had to walk west on a gravel road until we reached the trailhead and from there we had about 40 minutes of climbing.  It started to sprinkle a little bit but I stayed mostly dry under the good tree cover of the forest.  At the top of the climb (a long ridge), we could see a lake with a deep blue color that sat at the foot of snow covered mountains.  On the other side (towards the east), we saw a dark green (almost emerald) pond with lots of reeds in it.  Luis told us the different colors were the result of lake depth and sediment density.  We soon headed downhill and circled back towards the van by a different route.  During our circuit, we saw lots of flowers (including our third kind of orchid), several kinds of birds (many ducks) and more of the large European Hares that seem so ubiquitous.  We also crossed a few torrents (almost waterfalls) on rickety, one-person-at-a-time, suspension bridges - yikes!  I quizzed Luis about some of the animals and he told me about two invasive species (the beaver and a mink-like mammal, both from North America) that were wreaking havoc in Patagonia.  Later, I practiced more Spanish with Julie and got tips about travel in Buenos Aires from both her and Alvaro.  At the bottom of the hill, we reunited with our driver and a few folks that hadn’t taken the hike.  We then started the 40 km drive back to El Chalten (on the way, I had another beer).  JoAnne was sitting near me and she told me all about her home in Western New York, Shelly & Tony made more specific plans with me regarding our trip to Uruguay and Kathy shared some of her Australian licorice.  By 1645, we were at the hotel - Alvaro was having trouble with the restaurant reservations but told us to meet him in the lobby again at 1855.  I cleaned up and checked on some of my travel plans.  When our group reconvened, we just had to walk a short distance to the restaurant, La Ceverceria Chalten.  Alvaro had been talking about it since we arrived and I soon understood why: in addition to serving delicious Italian food (most of the workers, and much of Argentina for that matter, are of Italian descent), the restaurant made their own beers (in the Czech style).  For dinner, I ordered one of their Bocks, some fried cheese to share with Kirk & Janice, a ravioli made with spinach (inside and outside) and an apple crumble.  Our server proudly added a “shot-glass” of delicious soup as an apéritif and kept the beer and wine flowing.  Shaowen seemed relieved that we’d finished most of the planned active adventures and happily talked about how much he was looking forward to returning home.  Meanwhile, I became aware of a push by others to just depart El Chalten in the morning and arrive in El Calafate early.  I’d been hoping to do the last hike (Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado) in the morning before we left town but the group inertia was clearly shifting against this.  Fortunately, Alvaro squelched this mini-rebellion and those who didn’t want to hike were told to wait for us to return.  The weather isn’t supposed to be very good (for the first time in the entire trip) so we shall see which people were the smart ones… We paid for our drinks (2100) and we walked back to the hotel.  The temps had dropped noticeably (40s, with wind) so I was glad to have my fleece pullover.  In the lobby, I practiced my Spanish with a different clerk (who was from Buenos Aires) and paid for my laundry (2115).  In my room, I read a little bit before going to bed at the earliest time in over two weeks (2215).  Only one more day of trekking in Patagonia - I’ll be really sad to depart…