Saturday, November 7, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 372

It's time to move along again...  This morning, I woke up (no alarm) at 0520 - I was still tired.  Since it was a weekend morning, I went back to sleep until 0710.  Beyond that, I spent some time reading, doing Duolingo exercises and working on puzzles.  Next, I started getting packed and did some light planning (but didn't make any lodging reservations).  In addition, I tried to coordinate get togethers with some of my old Navy friends (John T in AR, Mark M in SW MO, Rick B near Branson and Bill B in east central MO).  Only one (Rick) replied immediately in the affirmative - but now I know where I'm headed!  With all the preliminaries completed, I packed up my car, checked out of the hotel and departed Emporia.  By then (0910), it was 38 F but sunny and cloudless.  After seeing a huge sign nearby that said fuel was $3.13 (wow!!!!), I drove over to the 5R station and filled up my gas tank (87 octane too!).  My gas mileage techniques had yielded 31.1 mpg and that felt good.  When I was done fueling (0920), I drove into Downtown Emporia and got on KS-99, which I used to drive south towards Eureka.  Thus began another full day of birding observations, which started with ID in Greenwood County (0950).  Next, I got on KS-58 and drove east.  At first, I thought it was my imagination but I was soon realized that almost all the drivers were waving hello to me - nice.  At 1005, I entered Coffey County and made my way to US-75.  At 1030, I entered Woodson County (45 F) and continued (bird IDs in hand) until I reached Yates Center and could get on US-54.  Continuing east, I reached Allen County (1105) and stopped for lunch at Sonic in the town of Iola (1115).  After finishing my meal in the car, I got back on the road at 1130.  About 15 minutes later, I entered Bourbon County and made my way to Fort Scott National Historic Site (arrived at 1215).  Unlike all the previous forts I've visited during the last few weeks, this one was planted right in the middle of the town, which had a Wild West feel.  For the next 30 minutes, I walked the grounds of the park and explored the 1840s fortress, which used to control the border of Indian territory and was the scene (in the 1850s) of Bleeding Kansas activities.  The dragoons stationed at this fort patrolled Santa Fe and Oregon Trails for many years.  After getting my fill of history, I departed Fort Scott and got on US-69 (four lane).  Soon after that, I entered Crawford County (1300) and then turned east on US-160.  Just before the border with Missouri, I turned south on 260th Street.  By then, the terrain was flat and green and the day was still sunny & warmer (52 F).  Before long, I got on KS-171 and entered the State of Missouri (Jasper County) by 1330 (the road became MO-171).  My target at this point was the town of Joplin, which I reached by 1345.  While making my way through stop/go traffic in Webb City, I saw lots of signs about Historic Route 66 and also noticed a bike trail that seemed promising (with have to hike it tomorrow).  Meanwhile, my mind was made up to visit the George Washington Carver National Monument, which was located about 20 miles to the east.  I made my way on to I-49 Business Loop and then used I-44, MO-249 and I-49 to make my way towards the NPS unit.  Eventually, I turned off the Interstate and on to MO-V.  From there, I was struck by the pointless ups and downs (some were pretty big).  By 1405, I reached the National Monument.  Almost immediately, I started experiencing Deja Vu.  Almost 50 years ago, my mother told me about the work of Dr. George Washington Carver, a man who grew up enslaved in southwestern Missouri but went on to make revolutionary discoveries related to the Peanut.  I wasn't even 10 years old yet but my mom was trying to put into my head the idea that almost anything is worth doing well and that expertise in a seemingly small area could lead to earthshattering success.  Our family made the journey to the site of Dr. Carver's birthplace back in 1977 and I'd never forgotten the impact of seeing the world where my mom's hero (and I don't think that is too strong a word) had lived.  As I've gotten older, I have started to believe that my mother hoped I'd be affected by the visit.  And she was correct - every time I've seen something about the famous man, I've remembered the ideas she shared and seen how they apply to my life today.  Re-visiting this National Monument, then, was a wonderful trip down memory lane and a reminder that we are formed by so many influences as we learn, grow and develop into adults...  I was very impressed by the interactive exhibits and the wonderful museum that was located inside the Visitor Center.  After that, I walked around on the property.  There were nice trails and some good birding (first sighting of Wilson’s Snipe).  I might have stayed until sunset but I figured out that there was a Mass at a nearby Catholic Church starting within the hour. So, at 1515, I headed west (via I-49 - I-49 BL to I-44 - US-166) towards Kansas.  Following up on a goal I have to attend church in every state, I departed from Missouri and made a short stop (1540) at the Tri-State Marker (OK-KS-MO), where I briefly did some birding in all three states.  Five minutes later, I was officially driving in Cherokee County (Kansas).  I arrived about 10 minutes later at St. Joseph's Parish in Baxter Springs - for the next 50 minutes, I attended 1600 Mass in the tiny church.  The young priest had a booming voice and almost seemed to insist on chanted prayers (rather than organ music).  He gave a good homily about prayer and I really enjoyed the vibe of the congregation.  Afterwards, I decided I was tired of driving and started looking for lodging.  I noticed one place "The Mollie Retreat on Route 66" but it was sold out (I shared the information with Mollie for a future visit, however).  Instead, I found a reasonably priced hotel in Baxter Springs - five minutes after making the online reservation, I was checked into the Baxter Inn 4 Less Hotel (1700).  Once I was settled, I went back outside the hotel and went walking for about 45 minutes.  Fortunately, I had some more good birding (including two kinds of owls) as the sun went down.  Finished with my walk at 1800, I made and ate dinner in my room.  The rest of the night was spent reading, working on Duolingo exercises and watching movies until I was tired.  For once, bedtime was early (2220).  This will likely be my last night in Kansas - it's been an interesting week!

Friday, November 6, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 371

Even though I slept pretty well overnight in my room at the Knights Inn (Emporia), I still was disturbed a bit early and was wide awake by the time my alarm rang (0600).  I started teleworking immediately and was very productive for a few hours.  Along the way, I skipped breakfast but did make lunch in my hotel room.  Eventually, the momentum of the day started to peter out - Fridays are almost always like that...  My work day/week finally ended at 1515 and I got ready to depart for an outdoor adventure.  By then, it was very gray outside and the temps were hovering just below 50 F.  Before bed last night, I'd learned that there was a long distance (about 118 miles) rail trail, the Flint Hills Nature Trail, located about 20 miles north of Emporia.  I decided to check it out and headed west from my hotel (on US-50) until I could get on CR-G.  As I drove north, I passed through the town of Americus and the road I was on started zig-zagging until it became CR-F.  I'd been planning to find a trailhead for the FHNT in the town of Allen but, suddenly (1540), I crossed the trail as I passed through the town of Bushong.  It only took me a short backtrack to find a nice trailhead and I decided to just do my walk there and then.  Starting a few minutes later, I started walking eastbound towards Allen.  Along the nice gravel trail, I was very successful in finding a LOT of bird species.  The trail wound its way through farm fields, small forests and over some narrow creeks.  The weather was nice enough that I started to think I could just keep on going until I was tired.  However, the amount of remaining sunlight started to become a factor so I turned around at "Road H2".  During my backtrack, I was witness to another beautiful sunset and even found a few more birds before I was finished (1720).  Checking my pedometer when I was back at F Road and my car, my pedometer reported that I had walked 3.8 miles - a nice amount for the limited time I had.  Later, I learned that I'd actually hiked my first 1.9 miles of the American Discovery Trail (Southern Route).  Of course, I could have done more before (pending a review of all my previous travel).  It was almost dark but I decided to stick with an earlier plan I'd made to visit Morris County (only about five miles to the northwest) to do some birding.  To get there, I used CR-F to get to US-56 and drove west until I reached the county line (close to Rock Creek Crossing).  Starting at 1730, I observed a few species in the deepening twilight.  By 1735, I’d started my backtrack to Emporia and listened to an audiobook on the way.  My next destination was Radius Brewing in Downtown Emporia and I made my way through some traffic and streetlights.  When I arrived at the brewery (1815), it took a bit of time to find parking and then even more when I got inside the building.  I bypassed the Hostess and found a way to the bar area - it took a while for a seat to open up (standing room only).  When one finally did, I sat down (1825) and was able to order a flight of six beers.  Meanwhile, I'd started a conversation with a young guy (John) and his dad (Tom).  They had come to Emporia to explore the Flint Hills before the next Kansas City Chiefs game at Arrowhead Stadium.  It turned out that we'd all been hiking on the ADT, used the Untapped app and had traveled around the US to hike long distance trails (like the Buckeye, IAT, NCT, etc.).  When the bar seats next to me opened up, we ended up having a nice evening - lots of good conversation about travel.  For dinner, I ordered the gyro entree and it was pretty tasty. By the end of my time at Radius Brewing (1950), I'd gotten some contact information so we could meet up again when I am in Cincinnati in 2027.  Afterwards, I said goodbye to my friends and started walking around the Downtown area to get the rest of my steps.  When I reached four miles for the day, I drove back to my hotel (arrived at 2025).  For the rest of the evening, I worked very hard to catch up on my eBird entries from the last two days.  Beyond that, I watched movies and did some Duolingo exercises.  Another nice day in the Jayhawk State.  American Discovery Trail Today = 1.9 miles / Grand Total ADT = 1.9 miles

Thursday, November 5, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 370

This morning marked the end of my stay in Dodge City - it's been a good few days...  I was awake at 0555 - like yesterday, a loud truck started up its engines just outside my door and ZI started to smell the exhaust fumes.  Oh well, it gave me the incentive to start teleworking immediately...  I skipped breakfast in the Nendels Inn & Suites (Dodge City).  Meanwhile, outside, it rained all morning.  At about 1100, I took a break to make lodging reservations for the coming night and then made/ate some lunch in my room.  I'd asked for late checkout (approved) was able to telework until noon.  After that, I loaded up the car and departed from the hotel.  By then, the rain had stopped and the day had turned overcast (50F).  My route out of Dodge City took me east on US-50/US-56 and I was mindful of the road signs because I wanted to so some birding in new Kansas counties.  So, about one mile west of the town of Offerle, I turned north on 136th Road (dirt), which allowed me to do some bird observations in both Edwards County (1230) and Hodgeman County (1235).  Next, I drove east on CR-22 (more Edwards County) on a muddy, swervy road.  It was a shame, since my car was newly coated in a thick layer of clay-mud (which turned into a kind of concrete by the time I finished my drive)...  There were times that I drove through deep enough mud that I wondered if I would make it back to pavement.  Eventually, I did (whew) and, a few more miles after that, I reached US-50 again and continued driving east.  As I'd been seeing for most of the week, I saw many more signs for the Santa Fe trail during my trek across Kansas.  One difference, though - I started to see HUGE trucks.  Meanwhile, the day had turned sunny (56 F) and the clouds were dispersing.  At 1300, I crossed into Pawnee County.  My plan had been to keep going east and to use a road through the next town (Kinsley) to get to my planned destination.  However, I found US-50 was closed, instead, turned north on US-183/US-56.  Soon after that, I turned east on I Road (dirt) and started driving through green fields.  There were some trees (from time to time) and passed several oil rigs occasionally.  At 190th Avenue, I turned north and then stopped (1315) to visit a viewing platform for some Santa Fe Trail Ruts that were visible on the prairie.  Almost immediately, I started to get some good bird observations.  Even more pronounced, however, were the loud sounds of a huge prairie dog colony.  I checked out all of the historical signs and plaques before getting back on the road.  When I reached J Road, I followed it to 180th Avenue - this took me to KS-156 and a crossing of the Pawnee River.  My intended destination was Fort Larmed National Historic Site and I was parked there by 1335.  Since the trails from the parking lot seemed to be paved or nicely packed gravel, I didn't put on hiking boots (wore Crocs instead).  During my walk around the grounds, I stopped at the Visitor Center (there was a good museum inside).  All of the buildings were apparently original (with some repairs) because the fort had not been abandoned at any point since its construction.  I went inside several of the buildings, which had a great reconstruction (with all kinds of period artifacts) of the lives of the soldiers stationed on the prairie in the mid Nineteenth Century.  Along the way, I had a nice conversation with a chatty blacksmith - he offered to make me a chain link to take home but I declined.  By the time I reached my car again (1430), I discovered that I'd walked a whole mile.  Almost immediately, I departed towards the east on KS-156.  Hoping to find some more birds, I turned onto O Road and soon (1450, near the town of Radium) reached Stafford County.  Fortunately, I found some birds so didn't tarry long.  Instead, I used 80th Avenue to drive north into Barton County (1500) and got back on US-56.  From there, I began my fuel conservation strategies (as I've been doing nearly every day since leaving Lake Tahoe.  As I entered Great Bend (1505), I noticed signs for a "B-29 Memorial" and made a stop at the Airport to pay my respects to the brave Superfortress crews who won World War II.  There were plaques for the engineers who designed the aircraft, crews that manned the planes during the war, memorials to many who gave the ultimate sacrifice and individual bricks for local veterans.  The committee that created the memorial included Senator Bob Dole and the artwork (sculpture of a soaring B-29) was very impressive.  After getting back on the road, I made my way through busy Great Bend.  It was nice to see that gas prices were dropping but, on the other hand, I was stuck (long delays) at nearly every traffic light in town.  I was finally out on the prairie again and immediately noticed a strong gas/oil smell (coming from the oil rigs? I hope so...).  By 1545, I had entered Rice County (more bird observations) and was pleased to see that the temps had increased to 62 F.  I listened to an audiobook and later explored Spotify (I'm loving the gift from Mollie and Alex!).  Though I wasn't speeding, I didn't expect to get passed by an 18-wheeler - however, a Dollar General truck passed and I had to help him by slowing down (significantly) so he could get over to the right in time.  Soon after that (1620), I arrived in McPherson County.  I passed a huge refinery (probably the cause of the lower fuel prices) just before the town of McPherson, where I got stuck at more lights.  Beyond that, though, I had a nice stretch of driving and passed quickly through Marion County (1655), Chase County (1725) and another town of Marion (they seem to be in nearly every state).  In the distance, I could see a lot of tall windmills spinning.  Eventually, I turned on to KS-150 and headed due east.  Meanwhile, the sun was setting earlier than I expected so I sped up.  I'd been hoping to make it to another National Park Service unit before dark but it was going to be close.  I passed signs that indicated I was entering the Flint Hills, terrain I'd noticed when driving through Kansas in the past.  Along the way, I passed a huge bison herd on the south side of road - cool!  Eventually, I reached US-50 which, shortly after that, became a nice four lane road.  I turned off of the highway when I reached KS-177 (near Strong City) and arrived at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve by 1740.  Even though the sun was almost gone, I was able to do some hiking, birding and was treated to a spectacular sunset.  In the distance, I heard what I presumed to be some coyotes howling (shiver).  While walking, I ended up in a call with Mollie.  As a result, I got a lot of steps (two more miles walked) before I was finished (complete dark) at 1840.  After making my way back to US-50, I headed east and passed into Lyon County by 1850.  Along the way, I skipped dinner (although I did eat some snacks).  Upon arrival at Emporia (1855), I followed Google Maps until it took me to the wrong hotel.  The lady at the desk seemed annoyed and then I realized that the correct one, Knights Inn, was located immediately behind the first.  When I'd made the reservation, I'd been impressed by the extremely good price - it was basically two nights for the price of one (much better than what was offered on the Wyndham site).  The place was under new managements (I met the owners) and featured a nice indoor pool inside a large courtyard with rooms.  The hotel was big enough that there were more rooms outside of this area and I told the owners that I wished them the best in their new endeavor.  After reaching my room (1910), I resumed teleworking.  At about 2020, I started hearing a ruckus in one of the hotel rooms nearby - a lady and man were fighting loudly.  Hoping to avoid the rage and stress, I took a break and went shopping for some beer at the liquor store next to my hotel.  Inside the store, I ended up talking with lady clerk - she was very interested about my Nomad Life.  After saying goodbye to her, I walked my last mile for the day (four miles total) before returning to my room.  Beyond that, I finished the last 50 minutes for my workday (done at 2140).  The rest of the evening was filled with Duolingo, YouTube videos and streaming service shows.  I finally was ready for bedtime at 2315.  The available sunlight will be a challenge for me, going forward, as the days get shorter and I'm no longer three time zones from my (work) office.  Hoping I can still find the time for outdoor exercise!

Wednesday, November 4, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 369

The Election Night Results watching last night did not make today very easy...  Even worse, I woke up at 0550 (before alarm) because a large truck started its engines just outside my door (I could smell the exhaust fumes).  Hoping to stay in some kind of a routine, I resisted the urge to try to go back to sleep and started teleworking immediately.  Like yesterday, I skipped breakfast in my room at Nendels Inn & Suites (Dodge City) but decided not to repeat my full day of not eating.  Instead, I worked until 1250 and left the hotel so I could have a real meal.  It was 65 F and sunny (very little breeze) during my short drive to the nearby "Miss Kitty's Cafe" (recommended by the hotel clerk).  At the lunch counter, I ordered the special ("Fajita Lunch") and eagerly consumed the first "real" food I'd had in a few days.  When I was done eating, I returned to my room to continue teleworking (1320).  Since I'd interrupted a project before I'd gone to eat, I stayed online until 1600.  I did feel better, though, when I departed the Nendels Inn just after that.  Initially, I drove north (up Boot Hill) and found a parking lot at the north end of Speirs Park.  The weather was great (67 F, sunny, no breeze).  From my car, I walked south on a cement path and, eventually, entered Chilton Park.  Along the way, I passed lots of signs and monuments that described the local history (Indian treaties, Chiton, Atkinson, etc.).  It appeared that the entire system in the area was covered under the umbrella of "Gunsmoke Trail."  When I reached the end of the local trail, I turned around (south end of second park) and walked all the way back to my car.  Not feeling ready to be done, I crossed over 14th Avenue and went walking on the campus of Dodge City Community College.  The sun was already dipping behind some terrain in the west by the time I got back to my car the second time (1710).  I should add that I reached 2.3 miles of walking and had a lot of good species to add to my eBird after this outdoor exercise.  It was time to do some errands!  To this end, I made my way to a nearby Walmart and did some grocery shopping.  After I was done (1730), I was leaving the huge parking lot and noticed the cheapest gas price I’ve seen in a long time ($3.81) at Murphy Gas.  Of course, I had to stop to fill up tank.  By then, the mileage gauge on my dashboard said 35.0 mpg (a manual calculation said 33.1 mpg)!  With food and fuel taking care of, I next drove to where I’d heard (online) that there was free air: Dodge City Motors.  When I arrived, however,  I found out from the nice young man who worked there (Luis) that the business had donated a compressor to the nearby VFW (that's where the free air was available).  Perhaps it was because he was about to close and was in a charitable mood but Luis ended providing me the necessary air "top off" for free.  We ended up talking (about life in Dodge City, the cattle business nearby and the oil rigs I'd been seeing).  As I've found with most young people I've met during the Nomad Life, Luis was very interested in my car, my process of deciding where to go next and how I passed my days.  Some interesting things I learned (or clarified) during this talk: National Beef (the huge meat production silos located right net to my hotel) and Cargill Meat Solutions (also in Dodge City) are apparently are connected with 20% of the Nation's supply; 13,000 cows are slaughtered in those local facilities every day; the holding yards ("feed lots") I'd been passing over the previous day were all connected to the "draw" for beef that is required each morning.  What a production!  I left from this great interaction feeling very nice - until I got the TPMS light (30 psi) as I drove away...  Oh well!  I next stopped at Dodge City Brewing and, once inside, ordered a flight of six beers (1815).  I'd already tried their 1872 Lager (yesterday at the Boot Hill Museum) and it was nice to try several more.  They were all great!  The brewery also seemed to be a locally popular source of wood-fired pizza - everyone else had at least one pie on their table.  But I was still feeling relatively full from my lunch at that point.  When I was done with my beer tasting, I drove over to the VFW and found the free air that Luis and I had earlier discussed - I was quickly able to get rid of the dashboard warning light (whew).  Since Mollie had asked if we could talk about a job situation she was having, I called her and we talked for about 20 minutes.  Meanwhile, I'd repositioned to the Central Station Bar & Grill (another place recommended by the staff at my hotel).  After wrapping up with my daughter, I went inside and ordered a club sandwich, chased down with a Michelob AmberBock (strangely, this was the first time I've had that drink).  On the TV, I noticed an NBA game and I got sucked into it, despite my best efforts.  The locals, who I normally end up talking to in these scenarios, were congregated with the lady bartender at the opposite end of the bar - so no local flair this evening...  Still, the restaurant had a good vibe and the food was good.  When I was done eating (2000), I went walking nearby at the old train depot (but they still have limited Amtrak service, I discovered).  Once back in my car, I arrived back at my hotel by 2015.  At that point, I still hadn't reached my step count goal for the day so continued walking until I reached four miles (2040).  In my room again, I did some Duolingo exercises and then watched movies until bedtime (2315).  Another good day in Dodge City!

Tuesday, November 3, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 368

With no need to drive anywhere, it was nice to be able to just do a "normal" telework day...  I was up at the new (Central Time) 0545 (before alarm) and got on my computer right after that.  Since the Nendels Inn & Suites (Dodge City) didn't offer breakfast, I didn't eat a morning meal.  Meanwhile, outside, there was a terrible wind blowing all morning.  But I was warm (despite a visible crack of light showing through the door jamb) in my room.  I ended up skipping lunch too, hoping for a chance to eat a more substantial meal at a restaurant nearby.  As a result, I worked until 1445 (Central Time Zone) and then called it a day.  Soon after that, I left my hotel and drove west into the Downtown area of Dodge City.  By then, it was mostly sunny (56 F) but it was still very windy.  After looking for some places where I might be able to add air to my tire (all charged money), I deferred that action until later in the week.  Instead, I parked near a huge gateway arch that read "Wickedest Little City in the West".  In the same area, I found lots of statues of Wild West figures (Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterson, Doc Holiday, etc.).  I also found one alley named "Gunsmoke Street" and there were murals and other signs of history (actual and TV).  Everything looked like it had been renovated recently so it was a nice thing to see.  Before long, I arrived at a large building and saw that it was called the Boot Hill Museum.  Hoping to learn more about the frontier past of Dodge City, I bought a ticket (1515) and started walking through the exhibits.  Everything was very interactive and I learned far more than I expected about the founding of the town, the wild and untamed period of its heyday and the modern advancements that this little city on the prairie had in the early Twentieth Century - it was well ahead of its time for the era, I think.  The highlight of the visit was climbing up to the top of Boot Hill, where I found dozens of grave markers (and some ceramic boot tips).  Each marker also had an explanatory historical sign next to it and it really showed the character of the people who settled the area.  Even though most of the burials had apparently been moved to a new cemetery over 100 years ago, the whole effect of simulating the famous historical cemetery was really great.  After that, I visited the Kansas Cowboy Hall of Fame (another building on the Museum property).  In the same building, I found an homage to the TV Series "Gunsmoke" (lots of autographed photos and memorabilia).  There was even an old TV showing the classic program on (I presume) a continuous loop.  Next, I made my way to the mock up of old Front Street, Dodge City.  Every store front represented a historical business and, inside, I saw all kinds of artifacts and biographical context.  One of the highlights in this area was finding beer (1872 Lager by Dodge City Brewing) and and liquor (Red Eye Whiskey by Boot Hill Distillery, which came with a commemorative shot glass).  After ordering one of each (1550), I stood at the bar in the Long Branch Saloon and tried to imagine myself back in the Wild West days...   The bartender was a young woman about the age of my daughters and it was interesting to hear her perspective about her job, the history of the town, life on Dodge City and, at one point, some philosophy about life in general.  When I was done with my visit to the saloon, I completed walking through the mock-up block and then entered several original buildings that had apparently been moved into the Museum property.  Everything I saw was well presented and I really felt like I'd gotten a real slice of history by buying the ticket.  Even better, I reached about 1.5 miles of walking while I was exploring all the exhibits.  With my museum visit concluded, I drove west on Wyatt Earp Boulevard and started looking for food.  By that point, I really wanted to find a steak house but hadn't bothered to look on my Google Maps app.  As a result, I only saw fast food food options.  Feeling quite hungry (no meal all day), I decided to stop at Dairy Queen for dinner (1700) and ate inside the restaurant.  Once my "hangry" feelings had subsided (1720), I drove east again and located a large expanse of green on the south side of the main drag - for the next hour, I went walking in and around Wright Park.  Along the way, I located a KOA, an active polling place (it was Election Day) and some birds.  The sun set over the distant horizon (much earlier than I expected) 0 it looked very pretty.  During this walk, I added 2.5 miles to my overall total of four miles for the day.  When it was finally too dark to continue, I got back in my car and headed to the hotel (arrived at 1835).  The rest of the evening was consumed by watching Election Results.  America surely spoke through their voting today...  Ultimately, I didn't go to bed until about 2315 and was sure I'd have trouble sleeping.  Regardless, I'm very glad I explored Dodge City today!

Monday, November 2, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 367

Now that I was going to be stationary for a few days, I was able to relax and return to more of a "normal" Nomad Life balance.  As usual, I was awake at 0700 Eastern Time (0500 local, alarm required) and started teleworking.  At 0715, I went to breakfast in the lobby of the Mid-Town Motel (La Junta).  The day was overcast but pleasant.  After getting done (0725), I returned to my room to continue working.  With a late checkout previously coordinated, I was able to stay online all the way to 1200.  By then, the conditions had shifted to raining and windy (temp was 54 F) - it was definitely not the best weather for driving... After checked out of my motel, I left La Junta and drove south on CO-109.  The terrain climbed gradually until I was on a higher plateau above the town.  Soon after that, I entered the Comanche National Grasslands.  As I continued driving, I noticed breaks in the rain and genuinely thought the weather was improving.  But the rain continued.  Meanwhile, my TPMS (once again) indicated that I had low tire pressure on one of my wheels (grrrr...).  I saw signs for something called the Picketwire Canyon but didn't stop.  The name stuck in my head, though, and I later learned that the name for this area (including the River) had developed because of the inability for the English-speaking settlers to correctly pronounce the French name for the Purgatoire River.  This was the first time I got near a place mentioned in the 1962 film, “The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance” and the conditions on the ground (farmers and ranchers) fit the scene...  Like I've been doing for the last week, I started fuel conservation measures.  At 1225, I crossed into Bent County but, five minutes later, I reached Las Animas County.  Ominously, the temperatures dropped to 48 F and I started wondering if I was making a good decision no to drive directly east on US-50.  In the early part of the day, it felt like the road had lots of useless zig zags.  That seemed strange since there were no visible terrain obstacles.  In any case, I was relieved to reach US-160 and turn east - that seemed like a more direct route.  At 1315, I reached the border of Baca County but saw no noticeable change in the scenery.  Since it was only drizzling at that point, I made the decision (I'd been on the fence about the options) to turn south on CR-8 (dirt) just after I reached the town of Utleyville.  For the next 30+ minutes (25+ miles), I made my way across the soggy prairie on a series of increasingly muddy roads (CR-U, CR-8 again, CR-C and CR-5).  There were deer and cows in my way and I had to dodge huge piles of cow patties (especially near the cattle guards).  The land was flat for a long time but I eventually descended into a deep valley with lots of evidence that the rivers/creeks in that area were rising rapidly. At one point, I had to make a rather scary river crossing - if I hadn't been able to make it, it would have been a LONG drive back to the pavement...  Surprisingly, I suddenly started encountering homes in the area - what a remote place to live...  Near the border of Oklahoma, I turned on to  EW-1 and, after sliding my way down a really sketchy road, reached my destination: the Preston Monument (CO-NM-OK Tripoint).  By then (1405), the weather was horrible - just getting out of the car for a few minutes caked my shoes in a LOT of mud.  Despite this, I took a walk around the cement pole (with the names of the tree states written on it), pausing briefly in each state (Colorado, New Mexico and Oklahoma).  Fortunately, I got to see a few birds (some in each state) - that made the trip to this remote location worthwhile.  After about 10 minutes on site, I departed from the Preston Monument at (the new) 1515 (Central Time Zone again) and made my way fully into Oklahoma (Cimarron County) and on to Black Mesa Road.  It was a relief to be back on a paved road with the deteriorating conditions.  I'm not sure it was visible but I was very close to the highest point (Black Mesa) in OK (although it was practically in NM).  As if to assure me that things would be better, weather wise, a rainbow appeared to the north.  After weaving my way towards the southeast for a while, I managed to reach a more substantial road (OK-325) and turned east. Shortly after that, I passed what appeared to be a dinosaur bone just standing on a small hill at a major turn in the road (I later learned it was a mock up of a Brontosaurus femur).  Meanwhile, I still had to contend with lots of rain.  Before long, however, I started to see an area to the south that was completely clear with bight sunlight.  In my present position, though, it got progressively more windy.  Eventually, it became clear that the weather to my north was no joke (tornados? hail?) so I made it my goal to get ahead of the storm.  Fortunately, the route I'd chosen before I departed La Junta was conducive to this plan.  Perhaps that was just luck...  In any case, I reached Boise City at 1605 and got on US-56 east, which I followed all the way to my destination for the night.  It wasn't all smooth sailing, though - when I reached US-287, I found that the bridge had been closed for major damage to it.  The resulting detour was not at all clear (no real signs or police assistance) and I really felt like I was making things up as I went.  Happily, I managed to get back on my way without issue.  On the other hand, this delay may have hurt me a bit because I soon found myself back in some horrible weather, with the worst wind I'd seen all day and horrible visibility.  The tumbleweeds were racing across my path (left to right) and I couldn't avoid a few of them (no noticeable impact noise, though).  When I finally came out of the weather (at about 1630), it was a relief.  For most of the remaining drive, however, I had a front row seat to a huge wall of weather on my left (north) - yikes!  Signs indicated that I'd found the Santa Fe Trail again and I continued on this historic route even after I entered Texas County and crossed the border into Kansas (Elkhart, Morton County) ten minutes later (1650).  This was my 43rd state since beginning the Nomad Life!  Since I was now completely out of the rain and had the full effect of the sun, the temps had risen to 55 F and I hoped I would have time to do something outdoors before the day was done.  My scenery during this part of the drive included the wide expanses of prairie in the Cimarron National Grassland and oil rigs that were scattered across the horizon.  As I continued driving towards the northeast, I remembered our family's visit to this same area in 2010 - the kids liked visiting some of the "Wizard of Oz" sites in the town of Liberal.  Speaking of that story, I still kept eyeing the nasty clouds over my left shoulder...  After entering Stevens County (1715), I arrived in the town of Hugoton and had to contend with a turn of US-56 towards the north.  I'll never forget the sight of the massive, black cloud of the nasty thunderstorm as I turned directly towards it - the effect was to make the little town look defenseless on the wide prairie.  And I thought maybe I'd made a mistake in choosing this route...  In an effort to make myself feel better, I stopped fuel conservation - by then, I'd reached 35.9 mpg!  To my relief, US-56 started to arch back towards the northeast and I managed to stay just east of the storm.  Along the way, I passed huge cattle collection pens (oh, the smell) and encountered huge grain elevators in each little hamlet where the speed limit dropped down to 25 or 35 mph.  I also noticed a long line of black tanker cars on the train tracks in each town (research revealed they are used for biofuels, fertilizers and heavy oils).  As I continued driving, the sky started getting dark "early", probably mostly because of the extremely high clouds in west.  With very little traffic (it had actually been that way most of the day), I made good time and passed through Seward County (1745), Haskell County (1750) and Gray County (1815).  Along this part of the drive, I crossed the Cimarron River, started encountering even bigger tumbleweeds, watched a fox or coyote cross the highway and noticed a large number of windmills (identified only by their synchronized flashing red lights in the increasing darkness.  Just as the last bit of sunset disappeared (as I passed through the town of Sublette), I noticed that I'd finally gotten completely in front of storm.  After that, the drive was pretty easy and I only just had to contend with the normal issues of driving in the dark.  I passed into Ford County at 1840 and, soon after, crossed the Arkansas River.  Dodge City was just beyond that landmark and I was able (with some city street driving) to reach my hotel, Nendels Inn & Suites, at 1855.  My lodging was located on Wyatt Earp Boulevard (so named, I learned later, because of a visit by Hugh O'Brian).  Once I was in my room, I resumed teleworking (1900 to 2000) so I could complete my work day.  Meanwhile, I made and ate dinner (microwave).  Afterwards, I posted on social media about my recent Colorado adventures.  Outside, it was VERY windy...  At 2045, I decided to go outside in an effort to get my first real steps all day.  When I opened the door, I immediately encountered a massive police presence (five or six officers) who were standing just outside my room and talking with a young kid.  The hotel property was so extensive that I was able to walk far away from this unsettling situation and, by the time I returned, found no more police in the area.  The resulting walk (two miles in the parking lot) was hard because of the wind but I stuck with it until 2125.  After that, I settled back in my room again for some reading, Duolingo and Dodge City research.  The extremely heavy winds continued for the rest of the night.  My bed time was at (the new) 2300.  It feels strange to have left behind so much of the West over the last few days - I feel like I'm squarely back in the Midwest now...

Sunday, November 1, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 366

Overnight, I had to contend with the time change - and, for some reason, I woke up in middle of night.  Fortunately, I was able to go back to sleep and finally was ready to get out of bed at the (the new) 0630.  As I typically do on weekend mornings, I did some reading, puzzles and Duolingo.  At about 0745, I went to breakfast in the lobby of the Mid-Town Motel (La Junta) - they had a pretty good spread for such a small room!  Looking out the window, I started to wonder if it had rained overnight.  This morning's weather was cloudy with 50 F temps.  At that point, I hoped I'd just be able to avoid rain later in the day...  Back in my room, I did some preparation (AI mapping of routes) for visiting three local National Park Service locations and do some birding in new counties (for me) of Colorado.  At 0835, I left the motel.  I initially used US-50 to reach CO-107 and then turned north until I could get on CO-194.  This road took me east and I arrived at Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Park by 0855.  A five minute walk took me to a the fort that used to stand in the area back in the 1830s and 1840s.  A lot of the building was closed due to "structural concerns" but I still learned a lot about life on the Arkansas River frontier.  There were a few other guests but I was able to get away from them by taking a longer walk (it ended up being 1.5 miles before I reached my car) along the river and did some birding.  During this part of the day, I got my first sighting of a Scaled Quail - the area was filled with a LOT of loud Western Meadowlarks.  After getting my fill of this first park stop of my day (0955), I departed to the east on CO-194.  Within five minutes, I'd crossed into Bent County 1000 - strangely, the Western Meadowlarks in the prairie were so loud that I could hear them while driving!  When I reached the junction with US-50, I turned "west" (south on the map) and crossed the Arkansas River into the town of Las Animas.  I'd earlier seen that gas cost about $0.20 less than it had been in La Junta and I found a good example (price was just over $4) at the local Sinclair station.  When checking the quality of my fuel conservation efforts, I was pleased to find that I’d driven almost 600 miles (over multiple days) on the same tank of 85 octane - result was 34.8 mpg!  Done pumping at 1015, I turned back east on US-50 and made me way north.  Along the way, I listened to audiobook and enjoyed the wide, four-lane highway.  To reach my next stop, the Sand Creek Massacre National Historical Site, I turned north on CR-14 and made my way (using CR-19 and CO-96) into Kiowa County, which I reached just before entering the little (population 71) town of Haswell (1055).  Beyond that, I finally started seeing green crops again.  At 1120, I reached the town of Eads and turned north on US-287.  The reason I was doing this was because I wanted to do some birding in Cheyenne County.  Google AI had come up with a long, elaborate route to the town of Kit Carson but I had no intention of driving that far.  Speaking of Kit Carson, I have been thinking about him for most of the last few weeks.  In addition to being the namesake for several locations I've visited, I just remembered that he was the part I played in a school pageant back in the mid 1970s.  I can still remember the lines...  Intrigued (and, frankly, tempted), I struggled with making the decision about what to do.  When I reached the border of Cheyenne County (1130), I immediately saw some birds.  With that reason for entering the area completed, I checked with Google Maps and learned that there was a route directly to the east (from my current location) to the NHS.  That settled it...  Striking out on a dirt road (CR-BB), I crossed a huge Open Range with no road signs or any other landmarks.  The day had turned windy and the temps had crept up to 54 F.  At some point, I entered Kiowa County again.  Meanwhile, I used CR-Y, CR-50 and CR-W to cross a series of cattle ranches.  At 1205, I arrived at Sand Creek Massacre NHS and found that I was one of the few people in the area.  I never went inside the (makeshift) Visitor Center but, instead, started walking out into the stiff wind.  The park unit was really more of a memorial to the fallen of the the terrible 1864 murder of peaceful women and children.  At every historical marker, my heart sank to read about yet another terrible crime that probably set back Native American relations with the US Government.  The signs had been modified (by the Park Service?) to redact all references to the word “squaw” and it was clear that the wounds have not healed.  Definitely not a good moment in American History...  I was the only guest at the park for most of my visit and walked the entire length of the Monument Hill Trail and then hiked a bit of the Bluff Trail (got another 1.5 miles along the way).  My visit was completed by 1250, just as a group of cars arrived.  Very glad I got to be there and experience the memorial alone.  From the NPS unit, I headed towards the south on CR-W, CR-59 and CO-96.  Along the way, I encountered a LOT of prairie dogs, oil rigs and tumbleweeds.  The seemingly endless prairie was rather forbidding...  Eventually, I reached US-385 and made my way into Prowers County (1325).  Along the way, I kept thinking about the movie called "The Magic of Ordinary Days”, which is set in the area.  I've been reminded of this film several times, both in La Junta and during my drive across the farms nearby.  My next destination, Amache National Historical Site, was also a part of that movie - it is also known as the Granada Relocation Center, used as an internment camp for Japanese-Americans during World War II.  To reach it, I turned west on US-50 just after I passed through Granada (1340).  I found the entrance less than 10 minutes later but never found any kind of official infrastructure (i.e., Visitor Center).  There was a reference on a bulletin board inside the park that guests could get more information at the "Amache Museum" but I never found that.  My visit, therefore, consisted of driving around the "skeleton" grid of the old road map of the historic camp.  Just after I arrived (1350), I did get out of the car for a little bit of walking but mostly just stayed in my car as I made my way through some areas where I found reconstructions of barracks, administrative buildings, guard shacks etc.  There were enough signs to explain almost everything but I would have liked to find an actual building with exhibits.  Oh well...  As a result of this, I departed after only 20 minutes on site and made my way back to US-50.  Continuing west, I soon (1425) arrived in the larger town of Lamar, where I encountered a major (at least for the area) traffic jam due to a long train crossing through town.  Eventually, I was able to cross the tracks and continued following US-50 towards La Junta.  Along the way, I got a call from Mollie and she helped me to pass the time (almost an hour) on this otherwise unremarkable drive.  I reached my motel by 1535 - by them, I'd driven about 225 miles during the day (which was actually less than Google AI had predicted).  I spent time entering all my observations on the eBird site and worked some more on my travel blog (almost completely caught up!).  At 1650, I left the motel and walked east to Boss Hogg’s Saloon & Restaurant.  The sign outside talked about an "Early Bird Special" (only before 1800) of filet mignon and I eagerly put in my order with Adrienne (bartender from last night).  She informed me that the steak came with two sides and I was convinced to try the salad bar (pretty extensive) and some french fries, which I requested be smothered in white gravy (following the example of the rancher I met the night before).  During my dinner, which turned out to be exceptionally good (they even gave me a slice of Texas Toast), I enjoyed two new beers (only one was new to me) and watched the last quarter of the Broncos versus Chiefs football game.  It turned out to be very good and everyone in the bar cheered when the Broncos came back to win.  Later, the Eagles and Commanders started playing but they were much less entertaining...  Surprisingly, there were not many people in the restaurant - I'd seen a lot the night before and I thought more would want to watch football on a big TV... Towards the end of my evening, I was joined by Larry (the retired railroad employee from last night) and we had another nice talk about life in Southeastern Colorado, Kansas and the Oklahoma Panhandle.  Adrienne and her colleagues were very interested in my Nomad Life and kept asking me questions throughout the evening.  For good reason - by the time I left (1910), there wasn't a single customer in the bar/restaurant...  Overall, I really liked the vibe of Boss Hogg's!  When I walked back to my motel, I reached four miles for the day - that felt good because I didn't really find a good place to get a lot of steps.  In my room again (1930), I spent the rest of the night watching movies and streaming service series episodes.  Bed time (AKA the end of my weekend) was at 2310.  It took a lot of driving but I'm glad I ventured out to see all the history and natural beauty of the High Plains today!

Saturday, October 31, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 365

It's the weekend!  This morning, I woke up at 0645 and spent some time reading, working on puzzles and completing Duolingo exercises.  At 0745, I went to breakfast in the lobby of the Best Western Motor Manor (Monte Vista). The day was sunny and cool (39 F) and there was water everywhere - it must have rained overnight.  I was pleasantly surprised by the very good spread at the breakfast and I got my fill.  At the time, however, I didn't realize there was a fitness center in that building - I would have loved to have gotten a workout...  After getting back to my room, I did some blog catch-up and then packed up my car.  At 1015, I departed Monte Vista (7643 feet), using US-160 to pass through the town into the rural part of San Luis Valley.  Shortly after that (1030), I entered Alamosa County and passed through the town of Alamosa.  Almost everywhere, I saw electronic signs that warned about heavy rain and snow coming to the on Sunday - after what I'd heard the previous day, the poor folks living in this area definitely can't afford any more precipitation in the near future.  At 1055, I stopped at the Alamosa National Wildlife Refuge and soon found some hiking trails.  The weather was great (sunny and 50s) and I was pleased to see that I had easy access to the Rio Grande River.  The trail surface was muddy (it was amazing to see my boots getting so caked) in places but I was able to get a full mile away from my car before I decided I needed to stop slogging.  By then, I'd found an amazing amount of birds, including what I can only assume were nesting sandhill cranes (cooing in the tall grasses).  It was quiet and the breeze wasn't too bad and I was glad to get this exercise before continuing my drive.  In the distance, I could see the Great Sand Dunes (see AUG 2011) and several snow capped mountains.  After crossing a canal (on a rickety bridge), I walked back on the gravel "car tour" road and arrived at my car by 1200.  It took a while to clean off my boots...  After I was back in my car, I got back on US-160 and drove east across the wide open prairie.  By 1220, I'd reached Costilla County and thought the drive would be more "business as usual".  However, I was shocked to see speed cameras in the little towns of Blanca and Fort Garland (SMH).  Once I was past those hamlets, I found myself in the middle of nowhere, with the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Range visible to the north.  Along the highway, I saw tall wildlife fences.  Next, I climbed over an unnamed pass and, shortly after that, La Veta Pass (9413 feet) - these were the last high passes I had to cross in Colorado.  It's been an interesting transit over the Rockies this week!  At 1255, I passed through Huerfano County and started a long descent.  Along the way, I listened to College Football games (including ND versus Navy).  To the south, I could clearly see the Spanish Peaks.  The descent continued all the way until I entered the town of Walsenburg (1320).  Beyond I-25, I followed CO-10 towards the northeast.  For context, I should add that the temperatures had climbed to 68 F.  The drive from this point was filled with long, flat views with every little in the way of landmarks or terrain features from which to determine my location.  One exception was Lake Maria (six miles east of town), which was full of American White Pelicans when I passed (1330).  When I reached the border of Las Animas County (1345), I started to see lots of huge windmills.  Meanwhile, the road continued descending...  I passed into Pueblo County (1355) and started seeing a series of large ranches along the long, straight road (there were, however, some pointless ups and downs).  The best part of this drive, though, was that there was very little traffic. I was still trying to conserve fuel (and was doing a good job) as I made my way east across the seemingly endless prairie.  At 1405, I entered Otero County and could have reached my destination, La Junta, without further deviation.  Hoping to do some more birding, though, I turned north onto CO-167.  This decision gave me a clear view to the west and I could see the tops of the Rocky Mountains.  At about this time, Erin called and we talked while I continued north into the town of Fowler (4341 feet) at 1430.  Using US-50 and then rejoining CO-167, which I used to drive north across the Arkansas River.  This bridge gave me access to Crowley County (1435) and I was able to find a few bird species before turning south again after 10 minutes.  Back in Otero County, I followed CO-167 to the intersection with US-50 - from there, I headed east on a two lane that later became a four lane.  Along the way, I noticed several gas stations with prices under $4 - yay!  I reached La Junta (just above 4K feet in elevation) at 1515 and soon located the Mid-Town Motel five minutes later.  It was easy to check in and I was soon settled in my room.  However, I had an interest in attending Mass at the local Catholic Church so changed clothing and left the hotel at 1535.  While I was making my way west to Our Lady of Guadalupe (AKA St. Patrick's) Parish.  Along the way, I found myself walking on the Santa Fe Trail.  When I arrived at the church (1555), I took my seat just before the service began.  There were some interesting differences from what I've been seeing as I travel: they started with lots of prayers (Eucharistic Adoration) and did a LOT of singing.  The key point, though, was that the Priest gave a VERY long Homily (about how "we are all Holy").  As I've noted many times before, it has been a privilege to see the variety of the Order of the Mass used at each church I visit.  When the service was over (1700), I walked north towards US-50 and found a restaurant called The Asian Cafe.  They had a sign about their “Famous Chicken Teriyaki" and I decided to try that entree for my dinner.  Along with this delicious (and healthy!) food, I had a bowl of fried rice and a Hong Kong Steamed Bun (with pork inside; the real name was, apparently Char Siu Bau).  When I was finished eating (1740), I had a funny exchange with the server who told me I could grab a handful of fortune cookies (they kept a giant bucket near the entrance).  One of my fortunes said that I'd have a wonderful October - perhaps that was more of a "fulfilled fortune"...  Next, I continued exploring La Junta on foot.  First, I wandered through Auggie's Grocery, which I later learned had replaced a chair grocery store.  The prices seemed good and I liked the local flavor of the establishment.  I was tempted to buy a can of beer in the store but, instead, started looking for a pub/bar.  With this idea in mind, I stopped into BJs Sports Bar - sadly, I was NOT impressed with the selection of beers on tap.  Later, I passed by a place, Wild Roots Kava Company, that had lots of people wearing Halloween costumes.  Intrigued, I went inside and ended up in an interesting conversation with the patrons and staff about the benefits of Kava and Kratom.  I'll admit I was intrigued but didn't take the plunge...  However, with help from mellow customers, I learned there was another bar on the far eastern end of town: The Red Dog Saloon.  With the goal of getting the rest of my daily step goal (and finding a cold brew), I walked all the way there.  Just before I was about to go inside, however, I noticed another place, Boss Hogg's Saloon & Restaurant.  The sign on the building, as well as the "Dukes of Hazzard" reference, convinced me to cross the road.  Inside, I found the exact vibe (and craft beers) that I wanted.  Even better, I met some ranchers and retired railroad workers.  The bartender, Adrienne, was very nice and the beer prices were very reasonable.  Noting that there were some really great food options, I decided that I'd like to return the following nigh.  At 1930, however, it was time for the immediate night to end - I walked back to the motel.  Along the way, I could hear the loud sounds of lots of cows on the prairie.  In my room by 1945, I updated eBird with the extensive sightings I'd had today.  Beyond that, I watched movies until I was ready for bed (2330).  Sad to leave the Rockies behind but it's great to be in a brand new part of Colorado!

Friday, October 30, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 364

Today's plan was to finish my work day early and do some hiking on the Continental Divide Trail!  Since I didn't need to start as early as usual, I set my alarm for 0640 - however, I woke up at 0540 and then started teleworking immediately.  At 0740, I took a break (door lock started working) to walk over to the main building of the Gunnison Inn at Dos Rios (Gunnison) for breakfast.  There was thick frost on all of the vehicles and the temps by then were only at 33 F (partly cloudy).  There was a great selection of food (surprising due to the low cost) and I was very satisfied by the time I returned to my room (0800).  As I continued working, I discovered that I was underneath the flight pattern for the airport - lots of people were practicing landings.  When I reached 3.5 hours for my work day (1030), I took a break from my computer and checked out of my hotel.  Thankfully, by then it was sunny and 45 F.  With all the research I'd done to make sure I had good conditions for a hike, I felt like I'd hit the jackpot.  I should also mention that I had wrestled with which route to take (US-50 or CO-114) and ultimately concluded that the lower pass (North Cochetepa) would make for better conditions and help me avoid an extremely steep descent on the east side of the Rockies.  As a result, I only used US-50 to drive through Gunnison and then switched to CO-114.  By 1055, I crossed into Saguache County and entered a narrow canyon which initially contained the climb.  Later, the canyon expanded in width and I found myself in the Gunnison National Forest; fortunately, the grade wasn't too dramatic.  As has happened several times while I have been looking for the CDT, I didn't see any obvious signage or blazes.  As a result, I climbed too high on CO-114 and ended up at the parking lot on North Cochetepa Pass (10135 feet).  Backtracking a bit, I carefully made my way west and back down the mountain until I noticed a tiny CDT sign at the entrance of CR-31.  Even though this road looked more like a trail, I drove north in the dirt for a little while.  About a half mile from the pavement, I found a CDT sign that indicated that the trail branched off the track (which continued towards the northwest).  (Note: later, I figured out that I'd been at mile marker 1039.25 for the CDT.)  After executing a tough three-point-turn in thick mud, I drove south to the place that most looked like a CDT parking lot (this was mm 1038.0); along the way, I'd driven about 1.2 miles where the trail was synonymous with a road.  At 1150, after gearing up for my hike, I walked through the gate at the trailhead and headed SOBO.  The conditions were pretty good - I was crossing through a big dry meadow; only later did I think about the elevation and realized I'd been hiking above 9.5K feet!  The temps were in the mid 50s and the trail was comprised of squishy mud.  I saw a lot of horse/cow patties and large elk prints (only then did the ubiquitous signs for "Elk Hunters" make sense).  Eventually, I reached what looked to be a semi-drivable dirt road and followed it (still going south) until it crossed Pine Creek.  (Note: this was mm 1036.25).  Uncertain about how long I might have to walk before seeing another landmark - or even a CDT sign/blaze - I turned around and walked back towards the car.  When I reached it (1320), my pedometer reported that I'd hiked 3.6 miles (1.8 new miles of CDT).  If I could the 1.2 miles of driving on CO-114 and CR-31 north of parking area, it meant I'd had a three mile day of new CDT miles.  This was also, I noted, the first time I'd recorded any miles in the State of Colorado and I felt pretty good, all things considered, after the scare with my heel bursitis.  Bonus: this section was coincident with the Colorado Trail (my first hike on that too) and I shared some photos with my finish friend, Inka, about that accomplishment.  My boots were very muddy so I changed out of them (and clapped them together, hoping to dislodge the dirt) before departing the trailhead at 1330.  Continuing east on CO-114, I crossed North Cochetepa Pass and entered the Rio Grande National Forest.  I could see a long row of high snow capped mountains ahead of me but, in my immediate vicinity, had a gradual descent into a wide, expensive valley.  There were lots of cattle and a small, meandering creek that dominated the low-lying terrain nearby.  Later, I saw cowboys rounding up cattle with four wheelers and horses.  Beyond that, I passed the Trickle Mountain (BLM) parking lot (and access road ?).  At 1405, I entered the town of Saguache (7697 feet) and switched to US-285.  From that point onward, the terrain was almost completely flat but this belied that I was still in the 7K range of altitude above sea level!  Hoping to continue the excellent conservation I've been seeing this month, I slowed down below the speed limits and let everyone (including some big trucks) pass me.  The area had beautiful long views of snow covered peaks in all directions.  In a few places, I crossed the Rio Grande River, which looked quite small.  At 1455, I arrived in the town of Monte Vista (7643 feet) - I'd done about 100 miles of driving since Gunnison.  Three miles to the west (on US-160), I reached my hotel, the Best Western "Movie Manor", which featured two drive-in screens behind it and movie themed room names.  During the summer, the rooms get a great view of nightly movies, with sound available through speakers in the room.  After checking in (1455), I made it to my room (named for Cary Grant, with the Sally Field room next door).  This was the earliest I’d checked into a hotel in a while and I loved having the extra time - I spent the rest of the afternoon finishing my telework day (30 minutes), catching up on my travel blog.  At 1745, I went back outside and took photos of the property (wish I could have seen a movie presented there...) before walking to Eduardo’s Mexican Grill (next to hotel).  Inside, I ordered some good food (enchiladas) and beer.  Like so many places I've seen over the last 15 months, this was definitely a local watering hole.  During my meal, I was fascinated while listening to local ranchers talking about flooding across the valley (including on their own property).  I appears that I got VERY lucky to have used the route I did - I avoided massive flooding in the Southwest corner of Colorado...  When I was done eating (1820), I walked back to my room and spent the evening making social media posts, doing some more blog catchup, finishing Duolingo exercises and watching movies.  I was finally ready for bed at 2330.  What a great day of mountain hiking!  Continental Divide Trail Today = 3.0 miles / Grand Total CDT = 47.0 miles

Thursday, October 29, 2026

Nomad Life - Day 363

Since this trip began, I've been trying to verify (though old notes and this travel blog) if our family went to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park in 1984.  Try as I may, I didn’t have direct evidence and hadn't taken credit for that NPS Unit.  Still, the feeling that I'd been there as a youngster was pretty strong (it was likely the North Rim because we visited Rocky Mountain National Park just before driving to Grand Junction)...  Earlier this week, I decided to resolve the issue once and for all by visiting the park this afternoon - the entrance to the South Rim was only about 20 minutes from downtown Montrose.  With this goal in mind, I woke up at 0500 (with alarm) this morning and started teleworking.  At 0730, I went to breakfast in the lobby of the Econolodge (Montrose) before returning to my room for more teleworking.  With the blessing of the hotel staff, I kept working until 1200.  Even after I checked out, though, I stayed online (in my car) for another hour, although I took a short break to order lunch from the Arby's right next door.  The day was sunny and pleasant (50s) and I was able to keep the windows open while I worked.  When I was finished (1300), I left Montrose and drove east (via US-50 and CO-347) to the National Park.  At the entry gate, the Park Ranger suggested that I should check out "something unique for this side of the Canyon": the East Portal drive to the edge of the Gunnison River.  I eagerly accepted this suggestion and made my way down into the eastern end of the Black Canyon.  The road had a 16% grade at times (yikes) and I could see my destination for most of the drive.  After I reached the bottom and found some shade in the deep canyon, I rested my brakes and then gradually made my way to Crystal Dam (end of road) - by then, I was over five miles from the entrance.  By that point (1330), I switched into birding mode and found lots of interesting species, including my first sighting of a Pine Grosbeak.  The river was full of fly fishermen and I enjoyed all the shade and silence of the deep canyon.  After checking out some short trails nearby, I started the climb back up to the South Rim Road - I was very careful during this drive...  Once I was on the main road through this part of the park, I drove west along the canyon.  Like I'd seen in the East Portal area, there was significant fire damage along the route.  It was still pretty sunny and getting warmer (low 60s).  On the other hand, there was almost no wind and the high, dry elevations made short sleeved shirts an option.  For the rest of the afternoon, I stopped at several places and hiked on the available trails there: Tomichi Viewpoint; Visitor Center (found a spectacular view behind the building there at 1430); Pulpit Rock; Cross Fissures (from there, I got a view of North Rim visitors on the opposite side of the Canyon); skipped areas closed due to NPS construction; Chasm View; Painted Walls; Cedar Point (I encountered an NPS crew of young folks working to restore area damaged by fire and enjoyed reading the tree ID signs); kipped Dragon Point; and High Point (end of road cul-de-sac).  At this last location, I could see out of the canyon towards the Northwest - the horizon in that direction was dominated by the Elk Mountains.  Taking advantage of this stop, I hiked about 100 yards of Warner Point Trail and reached two miles of walking for the day.  One thing that happened at nearly al of the places I stopped was I had an extreme feeling of falling off the steep cliff edges - other folks commented on the same thing.  I think the difference between this park and others with canyons was that Black Canyon was formed differently (sheer drop off of huge slabs).  At 1545, I made my way back to the park entrance (first time with cell signal for a long time) and descended down CO-347 to US-50.  From there, I headed east - almost immediately, I had a big climb over Cerro Summit.  Beyond that, I stopped in Cimarron, which was part of Curecanti National Recreation Area, and checked out the Morrow Point Dam (1620).  Hoping to visit some more sites for this NRA, I continued east into Gunnison County (1640) and then climbed over Blue Mesa (AKA Blue Creek) Summit (8704 feet) and then descended into a deep.  When the terrain opened up again (1700), I stopped at the Lake Fork (a boat launch area for the Blue Mesa Reservoir) unit of Curecanti NRA) and took another hike.  The water was way down and there were tons of mosquitos.  It was actually a steep descent to the water's edge but it was well worth the effort, birding-wise.  When I was finished (1715), I continued east on US-50 - the road followed the reservoir for many miles and was quite beautiful.  Just after I passed the Bay of Chickens (1725), I stopped at Elk Creek Visitor Venter (7500 feet).  Even though it was closed, I found some good signage and did some more birding.  Along the way, I reached three miles of walking for the day.  There was a large RV Park at this location but I also saw several others as I continued driving east through the Gunnison River Canyon.  At 1755, I arrived at my lodging for the night, the Gunnison Inn at Dos Rios.  It turned out to be another Booking.com gem: the very nice property west of town was situated on on a golf course and price was very reasonable.  After checking in at the main building, I found my room (accessed with an old fashioned key) and, five minutes later, had resumed teleworking to wrap up my day (one more hour online).  Hoping to find some food and local beers, I left my room at 1900.  For some reason, I couldn't figure out how to lock my door - in the end, I took the risk and left anyway.  Next, I used US-50 to drive into Downtown Gunnison and found it to be a nice, outdoor sports kind of place.  I saw signs for Crested Butte and other nearby ski areas.  Eventually, I stopped for dinner at the Sherpa Cafe (Indian food).  My meal consisted of some delicious fried rice and naan.  Since there was no one else at the bar, I didn't tarry long - after finishing my meal, I was in my room again at 2005.  I watched movies for the rest of the evening and went to bed at 2330.  It was great to see the Black Canyon today!