Hanover, NH (USA)

Got off work early today and did some paddling on the Connecticut River on the north side of Hanover.  With the temps falling during the last week, I was lucky to even have 60 degree weather.  But the sun was shining and I still had my kayak on the roof of my car - couldn’t miss the opportunity!  I launched from Wilson’s Landing (1530) and paddled north to the mouth of the Ompompanoosuc River.  Backtracking, I kayaked south to the bend in the river where I’d turned around last week.  Along the way, I got to watch the high school girl’s crew team (pairs and fours) and Dartmouth men’s crew team (solos and pairs) practicing.  I checked out the Kendal Waterfront Park (where the Upper Valley Rowing Club stores all their boats) and chatted with a proud crew mom who was waiting for her daughter.  By the time I was done with my 6(ish) miles of paddling (1730), the sun was dropping behind the mountains in Vermont, setting up a great sunset.  Hopefully, I’ll get a few more days like today before the cold weather *really* arrives!

Bellows Falls, VT (USA)

On the recommendation of my friend (John P), I spent a few hours walking around in the historic town of Bellows Falls (VT) today. As has happened several times this month, I woke up to rather dreary weather in Hanover.  Since it didn't seem like a good idea to hurry outside, I took care of some chores around my condo and then packed up my car (1000).  I headed south on I-89 (into Vermont) and used I-91 until I reached the exit for VT-103; I followed that to US-5.  The 40+ mile drive to the south took me into some beautiful Fall weather - sunny and high 60s. The water in the eponymous falls wasn’t running very high, unfortunately, but I later saw pictures (at the visitor center) of the rough rapids at their peak (in the Spring) and it was clear the area would be usually impassible for most boats.  As a result, one of the first canals and lock system in the US was built here in the 1790s to bypass the rocky gorge through which the Connecticut River normally travels. With the advent of the railroad, the canal was converted to generate hydro power - it still does today.  Speaking of trains, “The Vermonter” came through (1235) while I was walking nearby and, as it departed, went through a huge tunnel under the town!  Nearby, parked on a spur, I saw several train cars full of limestone slurry.  I later learned that this material is used for a process called “wet limestone scrubbing” at factories that generate sulphur dioxide as a byproduct of their operations. Having seen the huge amount of limestone generated in the Danby quarry, it makes sense that Vermont contributes to pollution reduction efforts with such a product.  Most of the rest of my visit included walking around on the streets in town - they have lots of old industrial buildings with lots of potential for redevelopment.  Sadly, there were a lot of off-limits areas and a general lack of development of tourist infrastructure near the Falls, so I was unable to access everything I wanted, including: the petroglyphs left by the Native Peoples, fish ladder around the dam and better views of the Gorge. It was clear that I’d need to cross the river for this latter item - I’m going to save that for a visit in the Spring. Overall, an interesting place!  At 1325, I drove north again on US-5 and stopped for lunch at Joy Wah on the edge of town.  The meal was delicious!  I was finished at 1410 and got back on US-5 again so I could do some more exploring.  Had seen a place called Hoyt's Landing that looked like a good kayak launch spot.  It took a while to find it - I got turned around without my Google Maps and ended up in Charlestown (NH) on the wrong side of the River.  Eventually, though, I located it at the intersection of VT-11 and US-5.  After confirming my thoughts on the viability for paddling, I drove east (back into New Hampshire) to check out The Fort at No. 4 in Charlestown.  The place had been conducting a Colonial History weekend but I got there too late.  Undaunted, I picked up information for a future visit and then backtracked across the River into Vermont.  I then resumed my drive north on US-5 in search of Wilgus State Park.  When I found it, I talked to the Ranger about camping (hoping to find something good for Katie and John) and then explored the grounds for about 30 minutes.  The park was very pleasant and had lots of interesting lodging choices (tent sites, lean-tos, cabins) and boat launches.  The weather was still nice but I decided it was time to head home.  I used US-5 to reach VT-131 and then (while talking to Mollie) took I-91 and I-89 to reach home (arrived by 1600).  What a great day!

Gorham, NH (USA)

I got up later than I’d wanted to this morning and discovered that the conditions in Hanover wasn’t good at all (cold, wet and foggy).  Still, I had some free time and decided to take a chance that other parts of the Granite State had better weather.  After driving about an hour to northeast (via  I-91, VT/NH-25, River Road, NH-10, NH-116, Wells Road, NH-18, NH-141, US-3), I found beautiful weather again!  Stopped for gas in Twin Mountain (0915) and then continued around the north side of the Presidential Range on US-3 and NH-115 to US-2.  Stopped again for breakfast at McDonalds in Gorham (0955).  There were SO many people all the trailheads I’d passed that I wasn’t sure where I would be able to park… I took a look at a lot I’d seen on the west side of town (on NH-16) and found a space near the Rail Trail I walked earlier this year.  From there, I crossed the Androscoggin (on an old train trestle) and joined the Mahoosuc Trail.  This was a back (non-AT) route to the top of Mount Hayes.  I hiked (via the AT) to a place I’d thought was the summit in 2014 but later learned I’d been fooled by the pretty view on a lower ridge.  So I had about a half mile to “reset” to the correct turnaround point for future hikes - not a lot of new AT miles but I was crossing my fingers that it wasn’t a popular destination.  One other goal today: I wanted to learn more about the Mahoosuc Trail in case I needed to use it during a future hike ("AT bail out").  Temps were in the 50s and there were no clouds.  However, there was plenty of mud from the water runoff from rain during the previous 24+ hours.  I had a lot of trouble following the trail during the first mile - there were very few signs and I didn’t see a lot of blue blazes as I followed an old gravel road along the river and power plant canal.  At one point, I met a dirt biker who was also disoriented - fortunately, we were able to help each other!  Eventually, I found a big sign that showed the way to the woods… The climb wasn’t too difficult and I realized when I reached the top that I’d definitely missed out on the REAL view from Mount Hayes - wow!  I could see almost all the High Peaks of the Whites and even back to the Connecticut River Valley.  Breathtaking!  There were four ladies lunching at the vista and I learned they were doing a loop via the Mahoosuc and Centennial Trails.  I continued via the blue blazes until I located the junction for the AT - it was very well marker and proved I’d missed the correct turnaround previously.  I headed SOBO on the AT and immediately encountered NOBO Thru hikers - in the short half mile I did, I passed 7.  Most of them started in April and were hopeful that they still had time to hike 300 miles and climb Katahdin before Baxter State Park was closer for the year.  I had my doubts but didn’t say anything.  I backtracked to the Mahoosuc junction and briefly thought about continuing north on the AT.  However, I could tell from the terrain on my Guthook app that any good vibes I had at that moment would be crushed by a hike to a good turnaround point (i.e., too far).  So I headed downhill, retracing my steps from the morning.  Along the way, I passed a pair of ladies who were enjoying the overlook, a few other day hikers (small families), a dead porcupine (who hadn’t been there on the way up the mountain) and LOTS of acorns.  I made very good time and decided to take the ATV trail back to the car - it, along with some of the other trail I’d walked, was part of the Cross NH Rail Trail.  Saw lots of folks on their four wheelers and dirt bikes (lots of waves, all around).  Back at my car just after 1445 (completed around 8 miles), I drove towards home on NH-16 to US-2, NH-115 to US-3, NH-141, NH-18, Wells Road, NH-116 and NH-10.  On the way, I decided to stop at Bedell Covered Bridge State Park (in Haverhill) to try to use my kayak before the sun went down for the evening.  When I first arrived and was getting ready to go paddling, an older couple parked their Prius next to me and, when they decided to reposition their car, tore apart their front end.  I let them know and then gave them some duct tape (I was carrying it in my backpack) so they could secure the broken pieces to their car before they had a 75 mile drive home.  Later (as I was launching), I saw a familiar looking man and his dog and we both realized we'd seen each other at Bedell Bridge at other times (e.g., from my last visit with my dad).  I delayed my launch for a bit and we talked about the bridge, bugs and beavers...  Eventually, I got on my way from the launch near the ruins of the old bridge.  The weather and the water ended up being perfect and I was able to spend two hours (1645 to 1845) on the Connecticut River!  Overall, I paddled about three miles downriver (logging six miles altogether).  The sun was dropping steadily behind the mountains in Vermont and this created some amazing reflection images of the fall foliage on the smooth water - I started to wonder if the Impressionists were inspired by such glimpses… Talked for a while with some successful fishermen - they had just caught some large grouper and pike - and learned that boaters are allowed to camp in the area (Vermont side)!  I continued until it was obvious that I barely had enough time to get back to my car before it got dark.  I saw lots of herons and a funny egret who kept resetting his fishing zone to avoid me.  The paddle back was harder than I expected (there was a current) but I’m pretty pleased with how I did: pretty steady pace, 500 strokes without a break and (best of all) I made it to the landing before I lost all the light (1900).  After finishing, I got back on NH-10 and followed it to River Road, NH/VT-25 and I-91.  Talked with Mollie on the way and was back at my condo by 1945.  After a late start, I definitely made the most of the day!  AT Today = 0.5 miles / Grand Total AT = 1868.1 miles

Norwich, VT (USA)

After work today (1630), I drove across the Connecticut River to Norwich (VT) and parked at a boat launch I noticed a few weeks ago.  From there, I could look back to NH and see the Dartmouth Crew Team Facility and Ledyard Canoe Club.  There were lots of watercraft on this section of the river - most seemed to have originated from the latter spot.  However, there were also Crew Teams departing upriver - two four-man Dartmouth boats (and their coach, on a motorized launch) departed as I paddled down to the Ledyard Bridge and, when I backtracked, two eight-man boats (+female coxswains) were launching.  These last two boats were apparently filled with Hanover High School Crew Team candidates because I was treated to lots of introductory terminology and instructions blared on a PA system as I paddled north.  Soon, though, I was alone on the water and was able to truly savor peace and quiet in some outstanding Fall weather!  I kept up a steady paddling pace for about three miles upriver - I only slowed down a few times when motorboats (full of what appeared to be drunken Frat Boys) cruised past with a big wake.  Otherwise, my arms kept moving and helped me cover almost six miles in two hours.  Along the way, I saw several places where the huge trees leaned out so far over the river that I couldn’t go underneath - however, I could see lots of ducks huddling in those safe havens.  As often happens when I hike, I had several moments when I considered (à la Matthew 6:25-34) the amazing, hidden world that I’ve otherwise failed to notice in my busy travels…. At another point, I found myself surrounded by a crowd of Canadian Geese who were peacefully coasting up to the bank of the river and began exiting to their resting place for the night: an apple orchard with pretty weeping willows.  Beautiful image!  After turning around, I got a different kind of treat: the two four man boats blew by me during the tail end of their workout (the coach was still pointing out flaws).  It was great to see the young guys at the peak of their fitness.  Also, the sun went behind the mountains to the west and made a spectacular sight as I was finishing.  Can’t beat a September evening paddle like today’s!

Hart's Location, NH (USA)

I left Hanover very early this morning, hoping that the thick fog and low temperatures (40s) weren’t an indicator of the conditions in the Whites.  Used I-91 (lots of turkeys near the road) to reach VT/NH-25 and then used River Road, NH-10, NH-116, back roads, NH-141, US-3 and US-302 to reach Crawford Notch.  Fortunately, by the time I arrived, I was treated to some spectacular views of the Presidential Range.  Unlike last weekend, there weren’t any clouds!  I parked near Crawford House (Railroad Station) and started into the woods (0845) on the Crawford Path, the oldest continuously traveled footpath in the U.S.  Unlike many of the other access trails I’ve used in the WMNF, this one was rather gradual and easy to walk.  A LOT of downhill hikers passed me - they’d all stayed overnight in the Mizpah Hut - but I only saw a few other people climbing to the ridge.  At the sign for the Mizpah Cut-Off, I took the left hand side of the fork and this took me to the north side of Mount Pierce when I reached (after ~2.7 miles) the AT.  I could see all the peaks to the north: Eisenhower, Franklin, Monroe, Washington, Clay and Jefferson - wow!  Reluctantly, I turned right (SOBO) and immediately climbed Pierce (4.3K’).  I got even better views there but the wind drove me off of the “bald” pretty quickly (I was wearing a long sleeved shirt but was trying to avoid breaking out my coat).  Back in the trees for the next few miles, I had to carefully navigate steep rocks and slog through lots of mud.  There were a lot of people on the ridge - mostly day hikers with her little gear (shudder).  When I reached the AMC Hut (very fancy and modern), I took a snack break and chatted with some other hikers.  Eventually, I got back on the AT (AKA Webster Cliff Trail).  Since I wasn’t doing a lot of distance, I really took my time and enjoyed the walk.  As a result, the mud, roots and rocks didn’t tire me out as much as usual and I made it to the top of Jackson before I realized my AT section was done.  I took the Webster-Jackson Trail (~2.7 miles) back down to my car - this was the second time I used this side trail and I’m still not a fan…  Other than all the same gripes I had last time, there isn’t much to mention except that the foliage was pretty and I got to hear the whistle of the Railway in the valley below (wish I could have seen the actual train).  I passed lots of day hikers (uphill and downhill) but was really only focused on getting back to my car, which I accomplished by 1430 (after about 9 miles).  Took US-302 (through Bethlehem and Woodsville) all the way back to I-91 and arrived home by 1600.  Felt pretty good after my loop (*much* better than the one I tried from Franconia Notch).  The temps had warmed into the 60s and there weren’t any clouds at all - a beautiful day in the Whites!  Hope I can take advantage of a few more days like this before the snow... AT Today = 2.6 miles / Grand Total AT = 1867.6 miles / NH 4000 Footer #10 of 48

Killington, VT (USA)

After driving over to the Killington area (via I-89, VT-107 and VT-100), I tried (unsuccessfully, due to private property warnings) to access the Long Trail north of town this morning.  Fortunately, there was a place to kayak nearby: Colton Pond.  Before doing any paddling, though, I got some exercise at/near Green Mountain National (golf course).  I was able to walk on a lot of the golf cart paths because not many people were playing yet.  Later, I put my kayak in the cool, clear water and spent the next 1.5 hours on the lake (0930 to 1100).  There were only two other people nearby - a fisherman who told me a little about that area and a lucky guy on his deck (he owned a lot on the water).  During several circuits of the shoreline, I marveled at the developing views of the foliage, watched kingfishers diving, observed the fish swimming just beneath the surface and startled a HUGE beaver near his lodge.  I also witnessed the fog lift off the Green Mountains as the weather transitioned to a beautiful Fall day.  When I was finished, I drove back towards home (via VT-100, US-4, I-89) and attended "LebFest" in Colburn Park (Lebanon).  That was pretty fun and I explored a lot of the booths (wish Mollie had been able to go with me).  Since I was already close to Sacred Heart, I went to Mass (1600).  Afterwards, I helped out with Applefest preparations for the next day (worked with John P).  Quite a full day!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[appointment at VA Medical Center in White River Junction (0800) - shopping in West Lebanon afterwards]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[I went to an appointment at the VA Medical Center in White River Junction (0800) and then did some weekly shopping in West Lebanon (0830 to 0900)]

Contoocook, NH (USA)

This morning, I reluctantly said "goodbye" to my dad after a great visit.  We were up early and I showed him the way to "The Fort" Diner in Lebanon, where we had a good breakfast (finished at 0745).  I went to Mass at 0800 and, after it was over, drove south on I-89.  On the way, I stopped for gas at Irving in Grantham (0905) and then used Google Maps to find the trailhead for the Stevens Rail Trail in Hopkinton (arrived at 0930).  There were some ladies setting up a drink station for a Hospital fundraiser and, when I talked to them, they mentioned the name of the only person I knew from the area (a doctor I'd met at a Notre Dame Club event) - what a small world!  I ended up walking the full length (4ish miles) of the rail trail (finished by 1045) before the bike riders in the fundraiser started coming through the area.  It was definitely another great day for another walk in NH and I thoroughly enjoyed myself.  Before departing, I talked to some spectators nearby and asked them about places to kayak nearby.  They directed me to a boat launch near the Contoocook (pronounced, according to them, as "Can-too-cook") Railroad Covered Bridge (NH-103).  So I drove over there and arrived just after 1100.  An aside: when I drive around, exploring, sometimes good things just fall in my lap!  Just as I arrived at the boat launch, I saw that there were some kayakers putting their boats in the water.  I had planned to walk over to check the water conditions anyway but wasn't prepared for what happened next.  My exclamation of surprise when I saw that there were 15+ kayaks attracted the attention of three older ladies nearby.  One of them (Robin) asked if I was going with the NH AMC Paddlers on their excursion downriver.  At first, I answered “no” but, after some additional prodding, I decided to “Carpe Diem” and agreed to join the group.  The real selling point was when they told me they’d help me get back to my car in the end - otherwise, I would probably have passed on the opportunity.  By the time I agreed, though, the other kayakers had departed - there was a strong current so they weren’t even visible. Robin’s advice: “you need to catch up to them!”  Without knowing where they were going, how long the paddle was and what the weather conditions were, I raced to get my kayak off the roof of my car, pack up rudimentary supplies and launch.  As I pushed off the shore, I wondered whether this whole gamble was going to pay off.  First goal: catch the AMC Paddlers!  It took me about two miles but I did “reel-in” the tail-end stragglers.  I then dropped some names and the group leader (Sandy) welcomed me into the fold.  It was only at that point that I learned the paddle was nine miles and that there was a barbecue at the end.  That was a double bonus - I’d have settled for only a ride back to the car… For the next few hours, I enjoyed the trip downriver, paddling with different folks in the group and learning more about the Club.  I also heard about other kayaking events, AMC Huts worth visiting and the kind of paddling (flatwater, whitewater and seawater) everyone liked.  Each person had a different kind of boat and skill level but all were extremely nice - I felt very welcome.  Most of the time, we were the only people on the River - towards the end, though, we arrived at a busy place (Daisy Beach) where people had paddled upriver to swim.  There were also several pontoon boats but nothing deflated my mood.  We got out of the water at the landing for the Contoocook River Canoe Company (in the Riverhill area of Concord) about three hours after I’d first decided to take the metaphorical plunge.  One of the ladies I’d met earlier gave four of us a ride to our cars and then convoyed us back to the picnic.  After that, I socialized until they wrapped things up at 1615 (I found out later that my photo was taken for the group's Facebook page).  Not ready for the day to end, I reluctantly, backtracked towards I-89 (used back roads to NH-127 and then took NH-103 to the Interstate).  On the way, I talked to Dad and Mollie.  I arrived home just after 1700, still pinching myself to see if the good fortune I'd had was real.  Overall, the entire experience proved (once again) how lucky I am to live year-round in the Granite State - I haven’t gotten bored yet!  People are soooo nice and always encourage me to venture even further out into the Wild.  Life is GOOD!

Mount Washington, NH (USA)

Again, we got up really early (0600).  My dad suggested that we try another AT hike today and I replied that it might be a good idea if we visited Crawford Notch and/or Mount Washington.  He liked this plan and we left my condo by 0700 (my dad wanted a "real" cup of coffee).  Used I-91 to reach VT/NH-25, then took back roads to NH-10.  Got on NH-116, which we used to reach Wells Road (near Franconia Notch).  Then took NH-141 to US-3 and later switched to US-302 in Twin Mountain.  Our drive was pretty easy and the weather looked nice.  There were some clouds on the Presidential Range but I thought I could tolerate the weather, especially after I left the top.  We stopped (0845) to check out the Cog Railway and found we could ride up to the Summit almost immediately (0900).  Because of the heavy cloud cover up high, I made the split-second decision to leave all my hiking gear behind and just enjoy a scenic trip.  This ultimately proved to be a very good decision… The Railway is over 150 years old and, in addition to being a technological marvel (at least to me), has a rich history.  Our guide was entertaining and we had fun watching the world from a 25-30 percent grade.  The ride was pleasant and appealing until we passed the tree line but then the temps dropped significantly and the wind speed increased.  By the time we got off the train, visibility was almost zero and the wind appeared to be about 35-40 mph.  My dad headed inside the Summit House quickly and stayed there until it was time to leave (about an hour later).  Meanwhile, I braved the elements and explored the AT signs and landmarks.  It was SO COLD and windy!  Every Thru hiker I saw (and there were a lot) looked miserable.  At that point, I decided to go back inside where it was warm.  Got food at the snack bar (1015) and looked around at some exhibits.  At 1045, my dad and I got back on the Railway - it was kind of a relief to have tickets for a comfortable ride back down through the clouds...  My dad told me he really enjoyed our excursion and "never got cold."  We got off the train at 1130 and explored the museum (history of the railroad and work on the mountain).  Satisfied, we drove back to US-302 and explored the area around the Mount Washington Hotel.  Then continued south on US-302 to the Railroad Station - I wanted to stop but my dad took one look at the traffic and refused.  Instead, we checked out the little flume cascades nearby and later stopped for ice cream at Willey House in Crawford Notch State Park (1325).  We ate on a bench with overlook of Webster Cliffs and later went for walk around pond near Willey House (Saco River).  Once finished with our sight seeing in the area, we continued south to NH-16 and then drove through North Conway - Dad got a gas fill-up there (meanwhile, I talked to Mollie).  Next, we continued south until we were able to turn west on NH-113 and proceeded southwest, passing through the edge of the town of Sandwich (my dad liked that).  We switched to NH-25 and continued west.  Along the way, we saw the northern end of Lake Winnipesaukee but then ended up taking NH-25B by accident.  Fortunately, we still made our way back to US-3 and found ourselves in the town of Meredith.  We parked on the waterfront and spent some time walking along the water (it was VERY crowded).  There was a nice 9/11 tribute (flags across a huge grass park) there - amazing to think it had been 20 years since that terrible day...  We got back on US-3 and took NH-104 to continue west.  In Danbury, we switched to US-4 and eventually took I-89 to Lebanon.  After we arrived home (1700), I made dinner (pizza) and my dad spent over an hour relaxing on my deck.  We later played my new "AT Game" and had a fun time.  I went to bed at around 2230.  Today was very memorable and fun!  Later, though, I realized this was my second visit to the summit of Mount Washington, a NH 4000 Footer (my #1 of 48), but still haven't done a real hike.  Hopefully, that changes in 2022!

Warren, NH (USA)

Once again, the weather was iffy when my dad and I woke up at my condo (0700).  All the White Mountains were shrouded in dark gray clouds and the wind continued to blow intermittent rain through the northern part of New Hampshire.  It made sense, therefore, that we should avoid such weather by visiting lower elevations.  I then remembered Warren, a town I’ve often passed through on the way to hiking zones - I was quite sure my dad would enjoy the history and scenery there.  At around 0800, we drove (via NH-120, I-89, US-4 and NH-118) to visit the area, which was located at the base of Moosilauke.  We easily found a parking area for the Warren Corridor 5 Trail (used by dirt bikes and ATVs) and then walked north from the southern edge of town.  Along the way, we passed a fish hatchery and my dad fed the ravenous trout that were living in two of the holding pens. The sky occasionally dropped some light rain but we still got some good exercise under tree cover.  My dad turned back about half way to our targeted stopping point (the beginning of the Warren to E. Haverhill Railroad Grade Trail) but I continued until I reached a local landmark located on NH-118/NH-25: a Redstone rocket!  My dad retrieved the car and soon joined me - he really enjoyed reading the historical information, especially the part about how the town’s Historical Society had managed to move the old rocket all the way from Alabama.  I was interested in the short biography of local favorite son, Norris Cotton, who has been memorialized in the name of the Cancer Center at Dartmouth-Hitchcock supported by “The Prouty”.  Just after noon, we drove a short distance to eat lunch at a local diner called “Calamity Jane’s” (1245).  While there, we avoided more rain and enjoyed a delicious meal.  Altogether, the stop-off in this little town was very memorable.  Unfortunately, our visit to Warren didn’t include any views of Moosilauke itself because of the weather.  I asked my dad if he had anything other sight seeing in mind and he indicated that he’d like to see some more rural scenery.  So I took him down the Moosilauke Highway (NH-25) to NH-10 and we stopped for visits at Bedell Bridge State Park, Haverhill Corners and the Farm-Way Store in Bradford (VT).  My dad enjoyed the eclectic artwork (he even bought some) and other fun gifts.  We actually saw one of my neighbors (Peter)!  Left from there and took US-5 all the way to Norwich - my dad liked the scenic route.  We arrived at my condo by 1600 and spent the evening resting, relaxing and doing laundry (bed at around 2200).  I believe, and my dad said he agreed, that we’d definitely experienced a full measure of “Life in the Upper Valley” today.  So far, this has been a great week of hiking, eating, exploring and visiting - we’ve still got some more time and hope to get outside for more tomorrow!

Rangeley, ME (USA)

With storms forecasted all over Maine, we “played it by ear” and ultimately spent most of the day exploring AT access roads, quaint Maine villages and inspiring landmarks.  Our morning started early (woke up at 0600) in the kitchen - we were the only guests in our hotel who took advantage of the opportunity to cook our own breakfast.  We left Stratton at around 0800 and drove east on ME-27, back to the area of Sugarloaf Ski Resort.  After locating the Caribou Pond Road, we drove about four miles into the forest until we located the AT parking lot (this helped me plan for a future hike).  We then visited the Base Lodge at Sugarloaf and I talked to the chair lift maintenance crew about taking a ride up to the ridge.  “Scenic rides” had been suspended for a second year but the techs were hopeful they’d resume in 2022.  Armed with lots of new Intel, I suggested that we drive over to Rangeley and my dad agreed (he had never been there).  We used ME-27 and ME-16 to get there, following a map we’d found for the Maine High Peaks Arts & Heritage Loop.  My dad seemed to really like Rangeley and we explored the downtown area a bit.  We got some great views of the Lake and he found good bargains in a big Thrift Store.  Up to this point, it really hadn’t rained - there was only a bit of mist and lots of clouds.  Taking a chance that conditions wouldn’t get worse, I decided to hike a short leg of the AT that was nearby (on ME-4) about 10 miles south of town.  After locating the main parking area, we went exploring down nearby Beech Hill Road.  The AT was supposed to cross it just under a mile from the blacktop and (after passing it the first time) we found the “trailhead”.  We also marveled at all of the really nice vacation properties nearby - it would be great to own a lot in the area!  My dad dropped me off (1100) and I hiked (SOBO) to ME-4.  It was muddy all the way but a Robert Frost line (“the woods are lovely, dark and deep”) kept coming into my head.  Passed four Thru hikers along the way and saw five more at the parking lot where my dad was waiting (1130).  Considered helping the latter get to Rangeley but we were heading south instead… We took a break at the nice Rest Area at Smalls Falls in nearby Madrid before driving into Phillips to have lunch.  We found a small store/diner called the “Local Bull” and got a pizza (1210).  We were surrounded by several boisterous locals who were sharing gossip loudly - great ambiance!  Backtracking a bit, we used ME-142 and West Side Road to find the beach at Mount Blue State Park.  The Ranger told us there was a better view from the other side of Webb Lake at the Center Hill unit so we headed over there.  He wasn’t wrong about the view (especially if the lake itself) but we couldn’t see the mountain, unfortunately.  It started to rain at that point and, since it didn’t seem practical to continue pursuing hiking opportunities, we departed the area via ME-142 and US-2 (1330).  Got gas at Shell in Mexico, ME (1435) and, after crossing into New Hampshire, stopped again in Gorham so my Dad could take a break).  We then continued on US-2 until we reached NH-115 (Twin Mountain).  Got on US-3, crossed I-93 at the north end of Franconia Notch and then used NH-141, NH-18 and Wells Road to reach NH-112.  Then took NH-116 and NH-10 to Piermont.  Crossed Connecticut River on NH/VT-25 and stopped to check out the (legendary) Farm Way store in Bradford (VT).  It looked like a cool place but was just about to close (1730) - we both agreed that we needed to come back again!  Just down the road, we got ice cream shakes at the Bradford Diner (1745).  Those shakes ("dinner") really hit the spot!  Got on I-91, drove south to Norwich and crossed the River again - we were at my condo by 1900.  Spent the rest of the evening doing laundry, relaxing and watching “The Illusionist”.  Went to bed at 2300.  Today’s change of pace was great!  Almost everything during the last few days has been “new” for my dad - I’m not really missing the trail mileage at all.  If conditions improve, we’ll try some more AT shuttling before the end of the weekend.  Until then, we are having fun visiting!  AT Today = 0.7 miles / G.T. AT = 1865.0 miles

Stratton, ME (USA)

Weather was great again when we woke up this morning (0500) so I decided to take on a more challenging section of the AT: the Bigelow Range.  We’d stayed in Farmington last night so were able to get a filling breakfast at McDonalds (0600) before driving about 40 miles north (we used ME-27, ME-146, ME-16 and Long Falls Dam Road).  Since a hike across the whole range was close to 17 miles, I asked my dad to drop me where the Safford Brook Trail crossed East Flagstaff Road.  We found the trailhead successfully (despite having no cell service) and I was hiking (SOBO) by 0845 (my dad insisted that I take part of one of his sandwiches).  The blue-blazed trail (2.2 miles long) was well maintained and not too steep.  Meanwhile, my dad went back towards civilization so I could call an audible (if needed) on which direction I hiked.  As I reached the ridge, I decided to follow Plan A (hike westbound to ME-27) as planned - since I had cell service by then, I notified “the shuttle” and he was then free to explore the Carrabasset Valley.  Choosing a western heading (AT SOBO), I proceeded to climb the East Peak of Mount Bigelow (4K’+) - the trail terrain increased more than 2000 feet in less than two miles (yikes).  Since I was still fresh, I made good, steady progress to the Avery Memorial on the summit.  I’d seen glimpses of Sugarloaf and the Crockers to the south as I climbed but conditions were much worse at the top.  Wind was 25+ knots, clouds swirled across the bare plateau, temps dropped into the 40s and all visibility was lost.  I pressed on, finding my way through the “Brigadoon-like” conditions, and eventually got back into the trees again as I descended.  Actually, there really wasn’t a trail in this area; I made my way through a boulder field… I started passing NOBO Thru hikers at that point and I saw 12 before the day was done (I also passed one LASHer).  Their demeanor was tremendously different from what I saw yesterday near Katahdin - all of them were grumpy and mostly silent because they had nearly 200 miles of AT left to go… The trail crossed the West Peak (same conditions) and then ducked back into the trees.  This happened several more times as I continued my hike and I began to (silently) curse the “Great Trail Designer” for making me climb and descend so often.  The weather began to improve as I reached the far western end of the Bigelows - I got great views of the Valley from the Horns and was treated to some pretty “over my shoulder” glimpses of the trail I’d crossed (wow!).  I had to descend to a lean-to/camping area near Horns Pond and I was hoping to then continue down to ME-27.  Instead, the trail climbed almost 1000 feet above the pond (good views) and then started a scary descent.  I’m glad I didn’t have to climb the Range from this direction but my life was probably in more danger going downhill: slippery roots and rocks, steep granite slabs with no handholds and mud/pine-needle ground cover.  The end result was that I couldn’t go any faster than I had in my climb and the hike started to feel interminable.  I passed a family of day hikers (also going downhill) and they looked really beaten (they’d tried to visit the Pond but couldn’t reach it).  My dad and I had texted a few times about my ETA and it was clear I wasn’t on target - I couldn’t estimate pace because of the conditions.  Finally, I reached the last mile of my day - it looked flat on all the maps I had.  Special bonus, though: let’s climb and descent four ridges before we’re done!  When I emerged from the woods (1730, after more than 13 miles), I was physically and mentally drained.  I’d already finished my three liters of water and the food I had brought but was still ravenously thirsty/hungry.  And my boots had started to disintegrate...  My dad wasn’t at the Trailhead but some Trail Angels (with food and drinks) were - they said they’d helped my dad find another parking lot (where he’d gone to wait for me after I’d already passed).  I collapsed in a chair and chugged Gatorade while my brain searched for the energy to fix the problem.  (Note: my dad had given a hiker a ride in the AM, so we balanced out on Trail Magic Karma).  Fortunately, we had cell service at that point and were able to coordinate a rendezvous easily.  Dad picked me up and (by 1745) we drove north on ME-27 to Stratton - fortunately for me, he’d made a reservation at the Spillover Hotel and we got a nice room.  Even better, my dad had saved me half of his sandwich for my dinner.  I took a bath and rested in bed.  I also called Mollie and then updated my trail spreadsheet.  My dad let me read more of his new book.  Before calling it a day (whew!), we discussed how bad weather was incoming and strategized an itinerary for the next day.  At 2230, I went to bed.  As I drifted off to sleep, I considered how glad I was to get this section done but wished I had a bigger gas tank!  Crossing fingers I can log more AT miles over the next few days!  AT Today = 10.4 miles / G.T. AT = 1864.3

Millinocket, ME (USA)

As I mentioned yesterday, my dad had graciously offered to be a shuttle driver so I could get more AT miles in Maine; we tested the logistics today.  We awoke (0530) to beautiful weather in the morning and ate a nice breakfast at the hotel.  It was great to find that it was only a short drive from Medway to Baxter State Park!  After a nice drive through Millinocket (via ME-157, Millinocket Road and Baxter State Park Road), we arrived at the State Park just before 0800.  It’s been almost seven years since I visited the area and my dad had never been there.  We first stopped at Visitors Center for hiking ideas (for Dad) and directions to pick me up later.  We then drove to the Gate Shack, where I paid for our parking pass, and then continued into the Maine Woods on a gravel park road.  We parked at Katahdin Stream Campground and I showed my dad some good views of the mountain before I headed into the woods on the AT (SOBO, 0845).  Since the trail crossed another park road within the first few miles (near Daicey Pond Campground), my dad drove over to meet me there.  After I arrived, he accompanied me on the trail for about a mile and we stopped to see a series of cascades which culminated in the impressive “Big Niagara” waterfall.  At that point, we parted - Dad hiked back to his car and drove to my planned endpoint, the Abol Bridge.  Meanwhile, I walked about another seven miles of AT.  This section was really great because everyone I passed was an NOBO Thru hiker that was only about 15 miles from completing the entire 2200 mile AT.  All the excitement and positivity was infectious!  I lost count of all the hikers after I’d passed more than 30 but everyone was smiling and admiring any views of Katahdin that we passed.  I had a great chat with one young guy, trail name “Yonder”, and learned a lot about the 100-Mile Wilderness.  The terrain was mostly flat for the entire section and I had the pleasant company of the mighty Penobscot River on my right for several miles.  The temps were cool but pleasant and my legs seemed fresh for such an easy jaunt.  Before I expected it, I reached the park boundary and got a glimpse of Katahdin, crowned with clouds.  I talked to a “gatekeeper” from the ATC (he checked on peoples’ plans as they came and went) just before I reached Golden Road.  Soon after (1345), I saw my dad’s car waiting at the Campground Store (he’d only arrived 15 minutes earlier!).  I walked across the Abol Bridge and found the end-point of the 100-Mile Wilderness - will have that adventure next year!  After over 10 miles of new trail, rewarded myself with some Gifford’s ice cream at the Abol Bridge Campground Store (1405).  (My dad commented that the lady inside wasn't nice to him but I didn't have any issues (hiker bias?).  We then drove back to civilization via Golden Road, Millinocket Road and then ME-157.  When we reached I-95, we used it to drive all the way back to ME-139 (basically, a backtrack of yesterday's drive) and took it west to US-2.  It was already about 1700 so we stopped to check out the nightly rate at the Farmington Motel - that turned out to be a good idea and we decided to stay there.  I took a bath (soaking sore muscles) and posted on Facebook.  We later went to dinner at Taco Bell / KFC (1850) and got gas at Irving (1945) in Farmington.  Back at room, had to weather MJ and loud music all evening...  I read  part of one of my dad’s new books until it got quiet at around 2200.  I talked with Dad until late and then read until bed (2359).  Had a great day on the AT - especially since my dad joined me!  I'm hoping to hike in the Bigelow Range tomorrow.  AT Today = 10.1 miles / G.T. AT = 1853.9 miles

Medway, ME (USA)

My dad came to visit me in Hanover and promised to help me with some of the tougher sections I still have left of the AT in Maine.  We spent this morning packing and left my condo at 0800.  Dad drove us in his car.  We were racing a rain forecast as we headed north; we used I-91, US-302 (gas fillup in Woodsville), NH-16 and US-2 to reach Maine.  We stopped for lunch at Subway in Farmington, ME (1240) and I made a hotel reservation for us in Medway, the gateway to the Katahdin area.  We then drove east on US-2, switched to ME-139 and followed it to I-95.  The weather ended up being pretty nice and my dad commented on how the drive was great.  At about 1530, we stopped in Medway and checked into Gateway Inn (1530).  Since my dad hadn't been in the area before, we then got back on I-95 and drove north to a scenic overlook.  The weather mostly obscured Katahdin but we were both pleased to see what we could.  We then continued north to the exit for the little town of Benedicta, which we explored briefly.  My dad was intrigued by the rural nature of Aroostook County.  We drove back to Medway and visited the Public Beach on the Penobscot River (off ME-157).  From the lot, we were able to take a walk on a snowmobile trail in the woods.  By the time we were finished, the rain started threatening...  We went back to the hotel and ate dinner on the hotel deck until a thunderstorm began (1830) and then spent the rest of the evening in the room reading and planning for the next day.  We went to bed at around 2145.  AT Hike in Baxter State Park teed up for tomorrow!

Lyme, NH (USA)

Was able to get some more great active time this morning: walked and kayaked the Connecticut River on/near River Road in Lyme!  Starting out my "two-fer" day, I parked at Hewes Brook Landing (0900) and walked north until I reached the place where I dropped my kayak in the river last summer (road side parking just south of the Thetford Bridge).  I then backtracked to the Lyme/Hanover town line.  I saw more bikers than cars during the 4+ miles.  Enjoyed views of the pretty homes with water access and huge yards for cookouts/relaxing.  It was another pleasant day, with temps in low 60s - the sun peeked out a few times but it was mostly overcast.  Just before 1100, I put my kayak in the water and, after managing to walk/paddle myself through a shallow channel, started north on the Connecticut.  Despite it being Labor Day weekend, I was the only person on the water.  There were lots of watercraft tied up on the shore (on NH and VT sides) but I guess no one wanted a day on the River.  Their loss!  I ended up finding the place where I’d last kayaked in the area after about two miles of paddling.  Turned around immediately but then took my time getting back to the Landing.  There was a little breeze but the water was mostly calm.  Saw lots of birds along the shoreline (safe in Wilder Waterfowl Management Area) and in the air (most of them southbound).  Got a good view of Smarts Mountain at one point.  Finished my fun on the water just after 1200.  It felt great to have gotten so much exercise in the AM!  Sad that there are so many signs of the end of Summer - hope I'll be able to kayak a few more times before Fall truly arrives…

Danby, VT (USA)

It’s been a while since I hiked and I wanted to do a “shakedown” before my Maine trip.  When I saw that the weather looked great to the west this morning, I decided to tackle another section of the Long Trail in Vermont (I’ve got a five year streak hiking at least a bit of it).  I left early and drove west (via I-89, I-91, US-4 and VT-100) to locate a trailhead north of Killington (VT) called “The Elbow”.  The road wasn’t on the map or the Guthook App for the Long Trail but I knew it was there after hiking down it last year - I also got lucky that the logging companies had poured fresh gravel on the it.  By 0900, I was parked at the trailhead and started hiking (SOBO).  After about a year of hiking the AT in the White Mountains, the trail seemed “easy”!  On the outbound leg, I passed two solo guys who were Thru hiking from the Massachusetts border to the Canadian border and had good chat with each of them.  Otherwise, I didn’t see anyone… I made good progress up a gradual incline (no views today, unfortunately) and turned around at Maine Junction.  I’ve now hit that landmark three times (twice on the AT and now on the LT).  Was back at my car before 1130 (after a little less than 5 miles) and was really feeling good.  I guess today proved that I’ve got some good trail mileage left in me - I just need to take the Whites in bite sized pieces!  From the trailhead, I drove back to US-4 and used it to reach US-7 in Rutland.  I then drove south to Danby so I could have lunch with Elizabeth.  As we had done last year, we ate a nice meal in the kitchen of her house (the one I've "borrowed" when hiking in the area).  This time, we were joined by a mouse that kept popping in and out of Elizabeth's stove!  We joked about the company and continued our fun discussion.  Along with other topics (family, Vermont, etc.), we talked about the fun time I'd had kayaking at Emerald Lake State Park the year before.  Elizabeth pointed out that she had a park pass that I could borrow - at around 1400, I took her up on the offer and drove a short distance to the park entrance.  The return visit to kayak today was just as good as the last time!  There were fewer people so was able to make a several clockwise circuits around the island in solitude. Loons put on a big diving show for a visiting photography club; skies full of southbound geese.  No sign yet of Fall colors on the surrounding (aptly named) Green Mountains.  Saw a HUGE turtle under me at one point, really close to the swimming area!  Couldn’t every really get enough paddling on the calm waters with the strange emerald tint but, reluctantly, packed up my kayak by about 1600 and went back to Elizabeth's (to return her park pass).  We ended up talking for a while after that and I didn't get on the road for home until almost 1700.  The resulting drive (via US-7, VT-140, VT-103, VT-131, I-91 and I-89) started out in the dusk but ended in the dark.  On pleasant part of the trip, though, was how everyone started lighting fireplaces in the evening - the smell was a great reminder of the colder weather that was coming.  Made it home by 1900 after a great day!  Long Trail Today = 2.31 miles / Grand Total LT = 109.60 miles