South America Trip - Day 4

Our guide, Alvaro, passed us the news last night that the planned visit to a penguin colony at Isla Magdalena National Park would need to be canceled.  The main reason for this was that the wind in the Strait of Magellan was expected to be too strong (more than 25 knots) for the small boat used to ferry visitors.  An alternate plan, to explore Cueva del Milodon, was also not going to be possible because the Tres Horas de Puerto Natales (auto race) was taking place during the time when we needed to be arriving at our hotel in that city.  As a result, Alvaro suggested we drive straight to our destination so we'd have more time for lunch, the Torres del Paine “W” hike orientation, dinner and packing prior to our early wake up on November 1.  We were all a bit disappointed but started our morning with full knowledge of the curtailed activities.  I slept alright but woke (0600) with a nagging feeling that it was actually later.  I got ready, packed up my bag and then headed down to breakfast (0715).  It was surprising to find almost everyone there because I’m used to late sleepers, I guess... The hotel’s breakfast was pretty good and I ate my fill, not entirely sure when the next meal might be.  Alvaro joined me and we had a good talk about his worldwide hiking adventures.  Despite the many amazing trips he’d already done, I was surprised that he was interested in my own experiences in the White Mountains.  At around 0830, I went back to my room to get my suitcase.  About 30 minutes later, all 13 members of our group had convened in the lobby, checked out of the hotel and were loading our bags in the back of our 20 passenger touring van.  Shortly after that (0905), we drove out of Punta Arenas (via city streets).  Alvaro put on his "tour guide" hat and shared lots information about the town and I found I’d actually checked out most of the points of interest and read about much of the history.  The rest of the group, however, was very engaged because they apparently hadn’t had as much time in town.  One place I hadn’t visited was the Zona Franca (tax free area) and it looked like an interesting place to check out next time...  Soon, we were on Ruta 9, headed north.  Another name for the highway was Ruta del Fin de Mundo and we all got a chuckle about that.  After passing the airport, the terrain was extremely barren and windswept.  We saw lots of wind turbines and radar domes (for StarLink internet).  We ended up driving very close to the Strait and the water looked deceptively calm.  By the time we reached the ferry port, located about 20 minutes north of town, it was a different story.  Alvaro pointed out the little ferry boats (basically, covered Zodiacs) that we might have used to visit the penguin colony and I think we all were happy to be on solid ground.  I was actually able to see Isla Magdalena from there but I was certain that the ride would have been unpleasant.  Continuing north for another 30 minutes, we traveled further inland and saw very little signs of civilization.  We made a planned stop at at gas station (to use the restrooms) and I played with a friendly cat who lived there.  Most of us were surprised to need money to pay for use of the facilities but Alvaro "saved the day."  Back in the van, we drove for almost 200 more kilometers without stopping.  If the remoteness of this area wasn’t already apparent in the rather barren landscapes near Punta Arenas, the drive on this road drove the point home! Our route roughly followed the Chile-Argentina border and we saw signs of defensive pillboxes from a potential conflict, fortunately averted, that almost took place between these neighbors in the early 1980s.  Other than those signs of humans, though, the land was desolate (it looked like West Texas to me).  In the distance (west and north), we started to catch glimpses of snow capped mountains.  Eventually, the low scrub brush transitioned to light forests (it looked like Wyoming to me).  In the meantime, we passed lots of domestic animals (cows, horses, llamas and LOTS of sheep).  A bigger bonus, however, was seeing wild Guanacos (relatives of llamas and alpacas), Nandus (AKA Darwin’s Rheas, looked like ostriches), Upland Geese, soaring Condors and (surprisingly) flamingos.  I can’t imagine a better tour of the local fauna than what we got!  By about 1200, we entered an area that Alvaro described as a “Fiordland" (I’ve only seen similar terrain in Norway, Iceland and Alaska).  Meanwhile, the white capped mountains grew larger and larger on the horizon until we could also see the Ultima Esperanza Sound, an inland strait of water that connects to the Pacific Ocean.  I spent most of the trip talking with Kirk and Janice (Canadian doctors) and found that we had a lot in common.  By 1230, we’d reached Puerto Natales itself and stopped at the Hotel Natalino.  We quickly unloaded the van, checked on our rooms (not ready yet) and stored our bags in the lobby.  While waiting to get into our rooms, we fortunately had lunch reservations at Le Finestre, a local Italian Pizzeria.  We had to walk a few blocks (very windy) to reach it.  At 1300, we were sitting inside the cozy restaurant and ordering our food.  I split a Torino (essentially meat lovers) pizza with Terry and also ate half of a Mediterranean salad (it was huge but no one else seemed interested in sharing).  We all got adult beverages - I had something called Glaciares del Sur IPA and it was good.  While eating, we spent a lot of time talking about our many travels.  After two nights of hearing about all the places the retirees and doctors have been, I believe I may be the least traveled person in the trip...  However, the conversation sure helped on updating my bucket list, though!  We finished eating at 1430, walked back to the hotel, retrieved our bags, dropped our stuff in the rooms and then reconvened in the hotel restaurant for our Torres del Paine orientation.  At 1500, we met our local guide, Chris, and he took the six of us who’d planned to hike the “W” Route through our itinerary for the next five days.  We discussed weather conditions, packing and Refugio perks.  The discussion lasted until around 1615 and we got some Active Adventures "SWAG."  Alvaro and Chris then distributed the gear that most of us had rented - I got a 60L backpack, hiking poles and a sleeping bag/liner.  After that, I returned to my room and spent some time practicing my Spanish with the desk clerk ladies.  They gave me a map of town and told me about holiday closures (All Saints Day).  Upon leaving the hotel, I converted $50 USD into Chilean Pesos at a nearby hole-in-the-wall currency exchange.  Alvaro had offered a tour of town at around this time but I decided against going on that trip.  Instead, I walked down to the southern entrance of town to see the Milodon statue - this area of Chile is known for the pre-historic creature.  Today, the location was also an excellent place to watch part of the Tres Horas race.  It was VERY windy but I enjoyed hanging out in the crowd with the locals and watching the action.  On the way back into town, I watched black headed swans serenely riding the whitecaps and marveled at the majestic mountains that dominated the horizon on the opposite side of the Sound.  Along the way, I passed by a huge ferry boat (the “Esperanza”) that was loading up - this is the only way (a five day ferry ride!) that most of the locals can use to reach the closest Chilean city with a road that connects to Santiago.  I also saw lots more stray dogs, all friendly, and chuckled to see how their fur was so unkept in the wind.  Puerto Natales is only about a quarter of the size/population of Punta Arenas so I ended up walking almost a full circuit of town (half was along the windy waterfront) - overall, I probably walked about four miles.  The place reminded me very much of Valdez, AK.  Once I was finally back in the middle of town (1730), I started to see lots of kids trick-or-treating in the local businesses that weren’t closed for the holiday.  Alvaro had indicated that this was a new tradition (started in the last 10 years) for Chile and the little Natalinos seemed to embracing the fun... I reached the hotel just before 1800 and tried (unsuccessfully) to get ready for the backtracking trip the next day.  At 1900, our group of 13 met in the lobby again and walked to our restaurant, Cormoran de las Rocas, so we could eat dinner.  The ambiance there was nice and we had a great view - out across the windy Sound - from our table.  At one point, we watched a fishing boat trying to reach the shoreline through the high surf (yikes)... The owner of the restaurant was a friend of Alvaro’s and food was mostly local fare.  I teamed up with Kirk to tackle a meal called “Tabla Criole de Carnes”, a giant plate of assorted cooked meats and steak fries.  We couldn’t finish all the food but gave it our best shot!  Our group stayed at the restaurant until around 2045 and then walked back to the hotel.  In the main square, nearby, a giant Halloween party (for the local adults and also the race car drivers) was in full swing.  Despite being tempted to attend, we returned to our rooms.  I spent the rest of the evening trying to prepare for the W Trek - I repacked backpack several times before I felt ready...  I ended up going to bed at around 2200.  Heading into Torres del Paine NP tomorrow!

South America Trip - Day 3

Before this trip, I’d considered taking an excursion to Tierra del Fuego on this day.  As time passed in travel preparations, I considered the way I’d likely feel after 30+ hours of travel and eventually decided against it.  That ended up being a good call because I was awake early but decided to catch up on some sleep.  As a result, I didn’t get out of bed until almost 0730.  I then took my time getting ready before going down to breakfast in the hotel lobby (0830).  There was a good variety of food, mostly of the kinds I’ve seen in visits to other countries during my travels, and some fresh juices (with lots of pulp).  I saw a girl with a Dartmouth sweatshirt on and asked her if she was an Alum.  She replied that she didn’t know anything about the school and couldn’t remember where she’d found the shirt.  We had a good laugh and then she and her friend told me about their travel plans to Antarctica.  After breakfast, I went back to my room (0930) and got ready for some exploring in Punta Arenas.  Leaving the hotel, I walked across Plaza de Armas Munoz Gamero to go to Mass at Catedral del Sagrado Corazon.  The 1000 service was sparsely populated and proceeded slightly differently (due to local traditions, I suppose) than I was expecting.  Fortunately, there were some older ladies in front of me who I was able to watch for cues.  It helped when I discovered that the homily was about Zacheus... The sanctuary was pretty inside and I saw several people enter just to take photos.  Afterwards (1045), I started a walk around the west and north side of town.  It was initially quite windy again but the sun was shining and I was dressed appropriately.  First, I walked up a steep set of stairs to reach the Mirador Cerro de La Cruz.  On the top of the climb, there was a great vista to towards the Strait of Magellan and the weather was clear enough to see across to Tierra del Fuego.  I saw lots of little locks on a fence there - not sure what that meant but I assumed it was an homage to a bridge in Paris... I spent a little time there, getting my bearings, before walking down the hill towards the waterfront (Muelle Prat).  There were a lot of (friendly) dogs running loose and I chuckled to myself when I discovered the “Liberty Risk” areas.  Almost all the businesses I passed were closed but I did notice several instances of a busy chain of grocery stores (Unimarc).  It also appeared that Chileans have embraced Halloween - I saw lots of window displays.  After reaching Ruta 9, I walked south for a bit, looking at the activities of an old Port Terminal and learning about the history of the town.  This short detour didn't lead to much else so I eventually backtracked until I saw a large statue of Bernardo O’Higgins.  Nearby, I found a road called “21 de Mayo” and learned that is a holiday in Chile called “Navy Day."  From there, I walked north, past Plaza Munoz Gamero, on Avenida Gobernador Carlos Bories until I located the Cemetario Municipal.  The hotel clerk had mentioned it as a good place to visit and he was absolutely correct.  On a normal day, touring the tree lined pathways and passing the many mausoleums would already be interesting but this weekend was close to All Saints Day (El Dia de Todo Los Santos) and there was a lot more activity.  I’d understood about half of the closing remarks by the priest at Mass but it was clear he’d been instructing the parishioners to make their families and loved ones a priority during “Una Fiesta de Vida."  Families in Punta Arenas probably didn’t need a lot of encouragement, though, because I noticed that almost every family plot in the cemetery had recently been visited and spruced-up.  In fact, I saw many, many more people arriving with flowers, cans of paint and other supplies.  Once they were inside, I watched them cleaning, painting, polishing and even tilling soil for new plantings.  The love they showed to the memories of their deceased family members was stunning to me.  After I departed the main cemetery, I noticed a huge market that was selling most of the supplies people needed.  I’d read in my guide book that there was a large population of immigrant Croats in the town and this was quite evident by the names on the stones.  Overall, I’m very glad I paid a visit to this place because I learned a lot about Chile and Punta Arenas by stopping here.  Headed back to the Hotel Cabo de Hornos via Avenida Hernando de Magellanes, arriving just before 1300. By then, I’d walked over four miles and seen most of the town.  I packed up my bags in the room and checked out (1400).  Since I'd discovered that my fish-sandwich leftovers from last night hadn't kept well (I’d ditched them) and was hungry, I left my big bag with the front desk and walked back to an area where I’d seen several bars and restaurants (including the Darwin, where I ate last night).  Unfortunately, I found every one of them packed with people...  Eventually, I remembered another place I’d passed, La Casa de Dona Maria, that was farther off the beaten path.  I returned to that location and was able to get a table without too much difficulty.  The ambiance was totally different than I’d previously seen and, after a while, I figured out that it was the kind of place where local families brought their loved ones for a special meal.  I heard at least three “Feliz Cumpleanos” performances (and clapped along with the families).  Meanwhile, I was able to order a different local beer (Hernando de Magellanes IPA) and navigate through another extensive menu.  Ultimately, I ordered Fettuccini Dona Maria, which had a good cream sauce with shrimp and prosciutto.  I enjoyed some more pebre on my bread (I'm getting to like it!) and relaxed.  After I was done eating (1530), I walked back to the hotel to wait for the time when I was supposed to meet up with my Active Adventures group.  For the next few hours, I read and relaxed in the lobby.  At 1745, I walked about two blocks west to the Hotel Almasur (1745).  When I arrived in the lobby, I met the Active Adventures guide, Alvaro, and checked into my room (1800).  I came down to the meeting area a few minutes later and joined the Tour Orientation with about half of our 13 member group.  Alvaro told us all about our two week itinerary and explained rules and expectations.  We got to join his WhatsAp group (to share photos) and did a short Q&A.  At 1900, we left the hotel together and walked over to La Yegua Loca, a place I’d seen earlier during my walk to the city overlook.  Inside, we sat at a table and, when the rest of the group joined (1915), did introductions.  Most of the others were from the US but there was also middle aged couple from Nova Scotia.  Almost all were retired....  Only one person (Shaowen, a software engineer from San Francisco) was actually younger than me and that was surprising because I’d expected younger (and fitter) companions...  Almost every other member of our group was either an engineer or a physician.  During the course of the evening, we ate a delicious meal with three courses: carrot soup, blackened fish over risotto and a slice of meringue pie.  I had one glass of Astral Lager but mostly filled up more on water (it’s been a losing battle to combat the dryness in the area).  The conversation was very interesting, with topics from people’s previous experiences with Active Adventures to travel difficulties encountered in the journey to Punta Arenas.  One lady (Joanne) had managed to visit the island in Tierra del Fuego with the King Penguins the day before but had almost been unable due to heavy winds (and canceled ferries).  I also learned that an older couple from Colorado (Tony and Shelly) would be on the same flight with me to Buenos Aires - we discussed the possibly of going to Uruguay on the same day.  At 2130, we finished eating and departed.  The two Canadians (Kirk and Janice) said they wanted to see the view from the Mirador so I took them to the top.  The view was much different than what I'd seen in the morning, with city lights covering all the visible land.  As a result, I couldn’t see any stars, unfortunately.  We headed back to the hotel and said goodnight to Alvaro (who was watching the door to make sure everyone returned).  In my room, I did some travel logging and checked emails before going to bed (2330).  Let the (Active) Adventure begin!

South America Trip - Day 2

Because of the inflight distractions, I think I might actually have gotten about 90 minutes of uninterrupted sleep...  At around 0500 (Santiago time and one hour earlier than New York), I woke completely because the flight attendants were asking passengers about breakfast.  I was (again) pleasantly surprised at the options and quality of the meal (omelet, potatoes, muffin) that LATAM provided for free.  During this time, I kept expecting some kind of customs forms but none ever circulated.  Instead, we ended up starting our approach into Santiago about an hour earlier than I’d expected (0600).  By then, I could see the first signs of rosy dawn and a hint of the High Andes.  We flew straight into the airport and were taxiing to the gate by about 0615.  By 0630, we were parked and I was completely certain that LATAM Airlines is a world class company!  Bonus: my AT&T calling plan notified me (via text) that I had unlimited data, calls and texts while in Chile (score!).  I was soon on my way to Immigration - this required lots of walking.  By the time I arrived at the Customs area, I figured out that the line was much longer than TSA at a busy US Airport.  As a result, it took me almost an hour to weave my way though the "Disneyland-esque" queue but I managed to get my first passport stamp in over 10 years (0730).  There was no time to rest, however, because I then had to retrieve my two checked bags (more walking), check them again (I ended up combining the two of them) for the domestic I had later in the morning (more walking and waiting) and then leave the International Terminal for the National Terminal (much more walking).  By the time I reached the last point, I only had about 30 minutes left before boarding for my next LATAM Airlines flight (to Punta Arenas) began.  I was interested in exploring a bit and looking for a place to take photos of the mountains but never really got a good opportunity.  At one point along the way, I encountered three young Americans who were talking loudly about their planned travels to Antarctica, two through Ushuaia (Argentina) and the other through Punta Arenas.  I later talked to the latter guy (he’d been a few seats away from my on the flight from New York) and learned he was on a later flight to P.A.  He also told me he was working in Antarctica for three whole months!  Since I was short on time, I reluctantly headed towards my departure gate.  Along the way, I was surprised to see several Dunkin’ Donuts and Starbucks!  I took an opportunity to try out my credit card (and my Spanish) at a small store and found that both worked pretty well (0810).  By this point, I’d figured out that the number of Chileans who feel comfortable speaking English was quite low.  I see this as a bonus, though - it will force me to immerse myself in the language and culture.  I had to drink the soda I’d bought (and the rest of my water) almost immediately because I located Security at that point.  Fortunately (with my limited time), I discovered that it was MUCH easier than TSA but not a joke (it reminded me of pre-9/11 in the US).  After reaching the other side of the queue, I figured out that my gate was at the complete opposite end of the terminal (yet more walking).  I arrived with about 15 minutes to spare before I was able to board the next flight (0845).  What a short, but action packed, visit to Santiago! Once aboard the aircraft (B787 again) and in my seat (last row but got a window in one of only two seats), I emailed the hotel in Punta Arenas and made arrangements for a shuttle from the airport.  By 0900, we were in the air.  I again enjoyed the inflight entertainment center and (for the first hour, anyway) got to see some views of the Andes range.  We got a snack (a “Tribu” bar of cereal and berries) and drink.  Later, I read up on some of the trip details and about Punta Arenas.  I also checked out my electrical power outlet adapters and found one that worked (I was carrying three).  As we began our arrival, the skies cleared and I got to see some more of the Andes, along with parts of the Strait of Magellan - it looked really windy!  The pilots did a great job landing us in what appeared to be extremely gusty conditions.  On the ground (1250), it started to rain...  I found that my WhatsAp had a message from the Hotel Cabo de Hornos, indicating that a driver would meet me at the airport exit.  It took a while to get off the plane and retrieve my bag but, when I left the main area, I found my driver holding a sign with my name on it.  He seemed to be about my age and was quite friendly.  Our conversation skills in each other’s language were about equal but we were able to communicate (mostly about my trip, the weather and local points of interest) during the ride from the airport to Punta Arenas. I saw lots of ships waiting to enter the port, snow on the highest hills and lots of interesting buildings in the industrial areas.  My driver was quite zippy and made very good time.  The terrain, weather and visuals along the reminded me Lajes (Terceira) in the Azores...  When we arrived at the hotel, I gave the driver a tip (1350) and checked into my room.  The desk clerk was the same person who’d been helping me via email and WhatsAp and I thanked him.  He gave me a late checkout on October 30 and indicated some of the hotel amenities.  From the lobby, I made my way to my room and, once I was settled, texted the kids to let them know I was done with my 33 hours (and 6700 miles) of traveling (1400).  I took a much needed bath and looked for bottled water.  Just as good, the hotel had set up filtered water stations in the elevator lobbies on each floor.  I filled up as many containers as I could find because I was quite dehydrated by this point.  After that, I tried to take a nap but this turned out to be a bit difficult because the drivers below the hotel would, at times, randomly begin blaring their horns continuously.  Still, I eventually got over two hours of dozing (until about 1630).  Taking advantage of some time and WiFi, I answered a few emails (and did two surveys, giving 10 out of 10, for my LATAM flights).  I tested out my converter plug again and found that the outlets were different than the one on the airplane - fortunately, I had brought another one that worked.  At about 1930, I ventured out of the hotel and walked (in circles of increasing size) around the south and east side of town.  It was cool out but the wind was strong and made it seem colder.  I found several (closed) museums about the maritime history and connection to Antarctica exploration and a nice gift shop.  I also checked out several restaurants (most didn’t open until 1830) and the waterfront (northern coast of Strait of Magellan).  Finally (1845), I decided to stop for a meal at La Ruta de Darwin, a restaurant with an amazing assortment of dishes.  It took me a long time to decide but I enjoyed one of the local beers (Astral Lager) in the meantime.  I also had some good bread rolls with two different “salsas."  I later learned that one was called pebre (“a finely chopped mix of fresh cilantro, onion, garlic, oil, vinegar, and ají pepper”) and was part of a uniquely Chilean way of eating bread.  The other salsa was fish based but I never heard the name.  Since I had time and the exchange rate was good, I ordered three dishes: empanadas (jamon queso), a fish & chips variant (sandwich merluza) and a soup (Ajiaco Chileno).  All were delicious but, of course, I didn’t have the appetite to finish everything.  Still, it was nice to sample and get a taste of many good flavors.  I obviously had some leftovers with me... When I asked for the bill, I learned that a 10% gratuity was automatically added (need to watch for that).  Subsequently, I successfully navigated through another English-Spanish exchange to pay the bill (1955).  Since I was only at 7000 steps for the day, I decided to do some more walking.  I spent more time on the waterfront and saw lots of black and white birds (Imperial Cormorants) on the old piers. I found a memorial for the 500th Anniversary of Magellan’s voyage in 1520 and lots of signs warning about Tsunamis.  It was starting to get dark by this point so I went back (the long way) to my hotel.  In the Plaza de Armas Munoz Gamero, I found a statue that memorialized the 400th Anniversary of Magellan’s arrival.  There was also a large crowd of young people nearby and they seemed to be angry about something - I obviously decided to depart the area immediately...  In my room again, I figured out how to use the TV (it allowed for streaming services) and did some reading.  At 2200, I was startled to hear more random horns blaring.  Fortunately, they stopped by 2230 and I went to bed, exhausted (fell right to sleep).  Whew!

South America Trip - Day 1

My Patagonia Adventure starts today!  I was awake at 0515 and finished getting the house ready.  I ate my breakfast (finishing the last of my food) and then met Monte in the parking lot at 0545.  He drove me to the Dartmouth Coach stop in Lebanon (I left keys and a copy of my passport with him).  By 0600, I was inside the warm lobby and, about five minutes later, was boarding the bus (I was able to scan the ticket from my phone).  Only about 10 other people were onboard.  We left Lebanon at 0615 and made no stop in Hanover, for some reason.  Instead, we drove to NYC (via I-91).  On the way, I watched a movie (“Dog”), read and enjoyed the scenery (nice sunrise).  The driver provided a free box of snacks and mini-waters.  Our journey (via I-95) to NYC went well - before long, we passed through Queens and I saw Arthur Ashe Stadium, (Mets Stadium) and Worlds Fair Globe.  I also got a good view of the Manhattan skyline.  Our bus stopped at a location close to Grand Central Station just after 1100.  From there, I walked all the way to Penn Station (via a series of zig-zags on Park & 5th Ave, Broadway and 34th Street (saw Macy’s too).  It was a beautiful day!  All told, I walked just over a mile.  I found the ticket desk for the LIRR (1130) and was able to board the 1138 train to Babylon.  Every train ride is different, I guess, but I must admit that I was surprised when the conductor took my ticket.  I got off the train at Jamaica by 1200 and made my way to the AirTrain station.  When I arrived, I found that I needed a MTA ticket (kicking myself I didn't bring the old one I had).  This led to some trouble with ticket kiosk because the machine would not take my credit card.  When I eventually paid in cash (1210), I then had trouble making the ticket work in the gate.  Eventually, I got inside and made my way to the platform.  I was on the JFK-Bound AirTrain by 1219.  As I rode along, I started to remember images of my first international flight (it was also out of JFK).  So much has changed since I was that rising High School Senior...  On that trip, I actually flew into the airport and didn’t have to navigate through the city.  Still, the trip went pretty well and, by 1240, I was at JFK Terminal 5.  I’d coordinated (in advance with the volunteer staff) to stop at the USO and wait for three or four hours for my flight so I tried to locate the lounge.  It took a bit of walking and floor changes but I eventually found the USO (1255).  Unfortunately, the volunteer lady running the place told me she went off duty at 1300 and there was no person taking over for her - basically, she said “we’re closing now."  She did let me come in and check things out and get a few snacks.  She also had a lot of good recommendations for where I could wait before checking into the LATAM ticket counter.  I took one of her ideas and walked a short distance to the TWA Hotel.  It turned out to be designed (restored?) in the style of the 1960s.  I walked around, examining the décor for a little while, and checked out the menu of the vintage restaurant and drink bar - “holy overpriced food, Batman!”  I did stay in the lounge area for over an hour, though.  At around 1430, I started walking to Terminal 4.  It wasn’t far but I had to go outside to make the trip.  Then, I had to look for a while to locate the LATAM ticket counter.  The fact that I was quite early made things less stressful...  When I arrived, the check in process was mostly in Spanish and I failed miserably to recall much of my High School class work.  Fortunately, I got some help from a nice gate agent and ended up getting my seat moved from middle of the row to near a window.  One surprise, though, was that I was not allowed to take my carry-on bag onboard.  It was collapsible and I’ve used it several times but they said it wouldn’t fit under my seat... Fortunately, I already had prepared for this situation and downsized most of my stuff into a backpack.  Also, both checked bags ended up being free.  About 10 minutes later (1500), I got in line for Security.  This was my first time going through the process with my Global Entry and I discovered that it was a lot easier. I was struck by how few people were wearing masks - I guess I missed the worst of the COVID-19 rules during the last few years...  I was through the line by 1525, which was a relief because the line and delay was getting much longer by then.  I explored the terminal and then backtracked for a beer and some wings at BWW. The food and drink was good but cost a small fortune in the end (1645).  While there, I met a young couple who (between them) ate about 45 wings.  It turned out that they were moving from their current home (NYC) to San Francisco.  We ended up having a great talk about National Parks and other benefits of moving around the country.  By 1700, I said goodbye to them and made my way up the departure gate so I could charge my phone.  During this time, I did a lot of texting with kids (telling them my status).  At 1835, my LATAM Airlines flight started boarding.  It turned out to be a B787 (first time on one of those).  I’d been “upgraded” to a window seat in an exit row but, when I got to it, found there wasn’t any window or place to stow my carry on (backpack).  I grabbed a few items for my seat and, when I was seated, realized that I’d somehow been separated from all three of my bags.  As I waited for departure, I realized I didn’t know how to set up inflight WiFi (I don’t think they even had it) and started to wonder how I’d pass the nearly 10 hours of the flight.  Fortunately, I figured out (by watching some other passengers) that there was a nifty entertainment center that lifted out of the seat (like a tray table).  The system had almost every conceivable form of entertainment (movies, TV series, music, games and a flight map)!  After a lot of multilingual instructions (the flight attendants did well for those of us who spoke English, Spanish and Portuguese), we got airborne (2000).  It was too dark (and our flight path took us out over the ocean) to really see anything through the tiny part of the window I could see in the row behind me...  Within about 15 minutes of “seatbelt light off”, I’d decided I could turn off my phone completely because there was plenty to keep me busy.  The middle seat in my row was empty and this gave me some room to relax.  I also met the young passenger, Christian, on the aisle.  I was about an hour into my first movie (“Top Gun: Maverick”) when the flight attendant came by and offered me (free) dinner!  This was so unexpected (just like the free checked bag and free entertainment center) because most US Airlines have nickel and dimed me for over 20 years.  The food (penne marinara and some kind of flat bread) was good and I was more than satisfied.  Bonus: wine and beer were free (!).  Actually, though, I had a Sprite.  I finished the first movie and then watched “The Martian." After that (1145 New York time), I was tired enough that I decided to try to sleep.  Somehow, I dozed several times (I know because I woke up with “help chimes").  Unfortunately, this promising scenario was disrupted later when two different passengers came to sit in our middle seat during the night.  I'm not sure why they thought they could do this - and I woke to a third and fourth time when the flight attendant came by to ask them why they each were there.  The second person (a guy) really annoyed me by trying to watch a movie in the middle of the night.  Fortunately, the system was too complicated for him and he gave up.  It was restless sleeping but at least I wasn’t up ALL night (the next day began during the flight)...

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - after work (1530), drove over to UVAC in White River Junction so I could work out (45 minutes of biking, rowing, Stairmaster and weights) - picked up some dinner at Dunkin in WRJ and then did errands in West Lebanon - home by 1745]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - during my lunch break (1230), did some errands at West Lebanon - then drove over to UVAC in White River Junction so I could work out (30 minutes of biking and 15 minutes of Stairmaster) - home by 1400]

Woodstock, VT (USA)

I helped out today at the Annual Family Halloween event at the Billings Farm in Woodstock!  Arriving early (0830), I witnessed the transformation of "The Farm" from quiet, pastoral setting to bustling, cheerful festival event.  My volunteer station was at the Pumpkin Bowling lanes and I had a good time setting up pins (lots of squats), cheering on the kids (lungs filling with crisp Fall air) and taping the pumpkins as they started to crack (“mummy-kins”).  All the costumes were so great!  Along the way, I got to sample apple donuts, a maple creamie cone and some other yummy snacks in the break room.  I watched costume parades, hay rides and animal feedings.  By 1330, we’d welcomed over 1000 visitors!  This event, along with the others I attended since Friday, definitely shows that a kind of “normalcy” now exists in my area - it’s great to see/experience.  I got a parting gift, too: for volunteering over 10 hours this season, I took home an 8oz bar of Billings Farm Smoked Cheddar.  Mmmm...

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - volunteered at UVAC in White River Junction from 0800 to 1000 (setting up for polo weekend, washing windows) - by 1030, I was home again for telework]

Hanover, NH (USA)

Assisted my friends from the Hanover Conservancy today in maintaining one of our town’s great trail systems in the Mayor-Niles Forest!  Starting at 0900, we spent the next two hours updating (and adding) yellow blazes on the Two Brooks Trail.  We also raked leaves off the trail so we could find roots or rocks that might need to be removed.  This latter task seemed like a metaphor for several futilities of life but, I was assured, it served to prevent hikers from getting lost.  Maybe… Regardless, I’m glad I could help improve our community, while simultaneously exploring a new trail near my home and enjoying the outside on a nice Fall day!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked all morning - at 1245, drove to White River Junction for doctor appointment at VA Medical Center - afterwards, got shot records updated (for my trip) - then drove across US-5 to UVAC and took at 13.5 mile bike ride (stationary) - headed home after that (working again by 1500)]

Danby, VT (USA)

It's been a while since I visited my friend, Elizabeth, at her Summer Home in Danby - since she was in town this week, today seemed like a good time to make the trip over there!  In the morning (0615), I went in UVAC at White River Junction so I could take a swim (30 minutes) and do some biking (30 minutes), Stairmaster, rowing machine and weights.  I was finished by 0845 and then made my way (via US-5, VT-44, VT-106, back roads, VT-100, VT-103 and VT-140) to Wallingford.  From there, I took US-7 to Danby (listened to audiobooks on the way).  I arrived (1030) before Elizabeth so decided to explore the areas west of town.  There were a lot of unexpected fields and mountains there - and great fall colors! Along the way, I found the horse farm where I'd told once Mollie we could go sometime (maybe we still can).  After that, I backtracked to Elizabeth's and waited until she arrived (1100).  We talked for about an hour before her brother, James, and his wife (Margaret) arrived (1200).  We then all sat down for a delicious cold-cut sandwich lunch.  We talked a lot about travel and had some really interesting discussions about life in Vermont.  James and Margaret left at about 1345 and I stayed with Elizabeth (more talking) for another hour.  By the time I finally I departed, it quickly became clear that I wouldn't get back to Lebanon in time for 4 PM Mass at Sacred Heart.  So, I took my time on a slight variation on my morning drive (mostly the same route but tried some gravel roads in the middle).  Found lots of farm-stores, trails, lakes, etc.  Also made it through some more audiobooks...  Ended up driving into Windsor on the way back and then made my way north to I-91.  Finally arrived home at around 1645 - what a nice trip to Vermont!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - volunteered at UVAC in White River Junction from 0800 to 1100 (washing windows in the pool area) - by 1115, I was home again for more telework]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[after my telework day, drove over to UVAC in White River Junction so I could work out (45 minutes of swimming, 30 minutes of biking) - home by 1615]

Cape Cod Trip - Day 3

Columbus Day!  I was up by 0630 again and found the day even colder than yesterday.  After getting myself ready, I packed up my car.  Then drove (following John and Katie) to Pembroke and got gas at Irving (0915) and breakfast at the Omelette Factory - it was really good!  We finished eating at around 1000 and then I said goodbye to them.  Next, I drove down to Plymouth to visit Gerard, arriving at his house at around 1045.  It had been a while since I'd seen him but, as usual, we had a nice political debate!  At 1245, we drove over to ThreeV for lunch.  The restaurant (and area in general) was very upscale and reminded me of something I'd seen in the DC Metro area.  We had a nice time there and I met the owner, Mike.  After we finished eating, he gave me a bottle of his family wine!  Gerard and I then drove around in the area, visiting places that meant a lot to him.  We got back to his house at 1430 and chatted for a bit longer.  By 1500, I was on my way back to New Hampshire after a nice visit.  Unfortunately, by then there were several major accidents on MA-3.  This extended the length of my drive by over 30 minutes.  Google Maps took me west on US-44 and this route had its own traffic problems.  Fortunately, I finally reached MA-24 and took it north to I-95/I-93.  After I reached Quincy, though, the traffic slowed down again - and rain started... I passed the time with audiobooks.  Once I'd passed though Boston, the traffic sped up a lot.  On the other side of the highway, though, there was major traffic (yikes).  I reached Hookset by about 1700 and took NH-3A to I-89.  There was lots of traffic through this area but it was not as bad as in the other direction... From that point on, I had a great drive (weather improved) all the way to Lebanon.  I was still about 15 minutes late for the Knights of Columbus meeting but managed to participate in that for about 30+ minutes.  Afterwards (1915), I headed home and unpacked.  I hadn't realized it previously but I was VERY tired.  However, all the driving was worth the effort - it was great to have seen so many people over the holiday weekend!

Cape Cod Trip - Day 2

It was a bit cold overnight so I was awake by 0630.  After making it to the kitchen, I said goodbye to Katie and John as they left for Church (0715).  I then got ready, ate a light breakfast and did some reading.  At 0800, I left Hanover (MA) and drove down to Cape Cod (using MA-139, side streets and MA-3 to US-6) so I could get together with my cousin, David, at the Buttercup Cafe in Barnstable Village.  By the time he arrived (0930), there were too many people waiting to eat at the restaurant and it was clear it would be too difficult to get food there.  Instead, we walked to the Barnstable Market (just a few buildings away) and got coffee and hot chocolate (0935).  We enjoyed our drinks on the front patio and had a nice conversation.  When we finished (1050), I drove towards Nancy and Rick's house in Harwich.  As soon as I told them I was on my way, Nancy told me to meet her at Sea Street Beach.  I didn't notice that she had added (in a follow up text) that she meant "Northside" so I ended up at the Sea Street Beach in Dennisport (1115).  It wasn't long before I realized it was the wrong beach and Nancy and I then talked on the phone - we decided to meet at their house.  I arrived there about 15 minutes later and got to see Rick before he departed for a Sea Scouts event in Chatham.  After he was gone, Nancy gave me a horseshoe crab she'd found on the beach (I'd been wanting to find one that I could give to Eileen).  We then drove over to the Sea Dog Brew Pub in South Yarmouth and ate lunch (started at 1205). It was fun to catch up and we had a nice time until the NFL afternoon games started (1300).  It then got so loud that we decided to leave (I bought half price appetizers for the road).  We drove back to Nancy's house and she got ready for an afternoon with her dad.  To reach his house, we walked along the lake behind her house until we reached his back porch.  I visited with him for a little while.  By 1415, I said goodbye to Nancy and her dad and drove east towards Brewster.  When I reached the Old Cemetery there, I stopped to visit my mother's grave site before backtracking towards Sandwich on MA-6A.  I wanted to take a hike somewhere near where I used to live but couldn't find a place I liked.  Instead, I drove all the way to East Sandwich until I found a Nature Area at Scortons Creek (1530).  There, I walked on several of the trails (extensive system) and met lots of people with (unleashed) dogs.  Ultimately, I didn't get a ton of steps but enjoyed the outdoor time... I finished by 1630 and got back on MA-6A until I reached my Dad's house.  We visited for a while before he took me to get some dinner at Graziella's Artisan Pizza Company (1715).  Inside the restaurant, they had some good scary displays that startled me!  We explored some of the new buildings (e.g., senior center) nearby and then went back to eat dinner with Beth.  Over dinner, we visited for a long time and I wasn't on my way north again until after 1900.  I used US-6 to reach MA-3 and then drove back to Hanover (via MA-139 and side streets).  I arrived just after 2030 and visited with Katie and John in their basement lounge until around 2300.  Went to bed soon after that.  Nice day of visiting!

Cape Cod Trip - Day 1

Since the Summer Season was over on Cape Cod, it seemed like a good weekend to visit my family.  I left my condo at 0745 and stopped at Sacred Heart so I could attend Men of Saint Joseph Meeting (0800).  It was great to hang out with several guys I knew from church!  We were done at 1000 and I left Lebanon.  I headed south on I-89 and listened to an audiobook.  I encountered a major traffic jam at the end of I-89 (junction with I-93) and eventually had to go back to the north on I-89 so I could access some surface streets.  This allowed me to reach NH-3A and, finally, I-93.  From there, I drove south to I-293 and arrived at Texas Roadhouse in Manchester at 1135.  I had coupon that I'd got from an AT Hiker in March and this allowed me to order a nice lunch there (always good!).  I was done at 1225 and got back on I-293, following it back to I-93.  Instead of heading south, I went the opposite direction until I was able to get off at the exit for Massabesic Lake.  From there, I drove around the north side on NH-121.  Along the way, I found the rail trail I was looking for but no place to park.  I did see some interesting "scarecrow people" between Auburn and Chester...  Took NH-102 back towards the southwest and got on NH-28B; took that to NH-28.  Continued listening to my audiobook on the way... Once I entered Massachusetts, I made my way to MA-114.  Wanting to do some hiking, I got off the highway and found Harold Parker State Forest.  The parking lot was almost full but I was able to do a little walking on the trail system there.  The Fall colors were much more brilliant in NH but the slight lag in their changing gave me a chance to see the “early adopters” peeking out of a sea of green...  It was cool but the sky was clear.  Didn't see many people but did encounter someone on a horse (!) along the way.  Nice break!  After finishing my walk (1545), I drove on back roads until I found MA-62 and took it to US-1.  From there, I continued north to Topsfield and encountered a traffic jam near the entrance to the Fair.  At 1635, I paid for parking near the main entrance (skipped bus shuttle parking area) and then paid to enter the park.  At almost the same time, I learned that Katie and her family were still far away...  Undeterred, I continued inside the Fair and found it was VERY crowded.  Oh, the (mass of) humanity!  While waiting, I walked around, looking at events and attractions, and finally sat down at a concert venue and listened to a garage band playing "music".  This 200+ year old Fair was amazing - but it was also so big and crowded that I was glad I’d already been to a smaller event earlier this year...  Katie, John and Ella eventually arrived at around 1730 - I had to move to another area of the Fair to see them.  When Ella's concert started (1800), I got to see my niece, Ella (@itselladuff on Instagram) perform.  She was really good!  She later told me she was glad that I had made the effort to watch her ("no one else in the family has").  I took a break at 1845 (when she started to repeat some of her songs) and got dinner (Cuban sandwich) and then walked around with John so we could see the record pumpkin (it was almost 2500 pounds!).  Back at Ella's performance stage (near the kiddie rides), I enjoyed watching the families with small children clapping and cheering her.  We all finally left the park at around 2015 (separate cars).  I took US-1 to I-95 (talking to Mollie on the way).  Google Maps kept trying to get me to change roads but I stayed on I-95 all the way to I-93 merge - this allowed me to reach MA-3 from the west (and avoid driving through Boston).  I arrived at Katie's house by 2130 and the rest of them arrived about 30 minutes later.  Not ready for bed yet, I stayed up late talking to John and Katie - we had a lot of news to share!  Finally went to sleep at 2330.  This is already shaping up to be a great weekend!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - volunteered at UVAC in White River Junction from 0800 to 1100 (setting up for swim meet, pressure washing mats) - by 1115, I was home again for telework]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked until 1345 - then drove to the VA Medical Center in White River Junction so I could get my Flu Shot (and drop off annual Volunteer training documentation) - then drove over to UVAC so I could work out (45 minutes of swimming, 45 minutes of rowing and biking) - home by 1615]

Rockwood, ME (USA)

It was a warmer night but I only slept until around 0500.  After that, I couldn't get back to sleep so I read for a while before getting ready for my day.  By the time I was dressed, I'd decided to forego hiking any more AT miles in 2022.  I was able to make this choice with a lot of peace because of all the great experiences I’ve had on the Trail since March.  With less than 100 miles until I’m done, I am really looking forward to 2023!  Ate another delicious breakfast with the other hikers and learned that "Water" had left the trail because she'd gotten COVID - that's too bad because I'd hoped to run into her again...  I paid for Shaw's (lodging and breakfast) at 0755 and then headed out of Monson and away from the AT...  Of course, I had no intention of sitting on the couch today!  Instead, I paid a visit to Mount Kineo, an iconic Maine landmark located on Moosehead Lake and featured in Thoreau’s “The Maine Woods” (which I read in the last year).  I actually was able to see it from the top of Barren Mountain yesterday and the locals I’d been with jokingly referred to it as “Maine’s Half Dome.”  To reach it, a visitor has to take a ferry from the town of Rockwood.  After using ME-15 and ME-6, I arrived for the first departure today and was faced with a strong, icy wind (along with temps in the high 30s) - for the first time in months, I had to put on my winter coat!  By 0900, we were on the water (it was even colder out there) for the short (less than 15 minute) transit.  Only four other hardy souls joined me… After getting dropped off at the Golf Course Pier (not kidding), I entered Mount Kineo State Park and started the hike up the the summit.  After walking along the edge of the lake on the Carriage Road, I had two choices for the ascent: Bridle Trail or Indian Trail.  Since the latter trail hugged the cliff, was the shortest distance and was considered (by the ferry driver) a challenge, I took it.  This decision soon put me out in front of everyone and I realized I had a chance to be the first person on the peak all day.  While climbing, I began wishing I’d brought my trekking poles - I’ve gotten used to having them on every hike.  I took my time to enjoy the spectacular views but kept up a good pace.  After an entire summer of steep climbs, the relatively short rise of Kineo seemed easy - from ferry landing to the fire tower only took me about 45 minutes.  By then, the sun had warmed up the island and I was able to shed my winter coat.  At the summit (1789’), I climbed up the rickety steel tower (the wind seemed to make it sway) and got some impressive photos on top.  Amazing 360 degree views!  I reached the bottom of the tower before anyone else arrived and decided to go back down the mountain again.  By now, the second ferry was offloading more people and I anticipated a crowd on the island before long… I used the Bridle Path during my descent and, encountering the latest arrivals near the water’s edge, realized I had a really good chance to get to the ferry by the time it left for the mainland (10:45).  This did require that I walk pretty fast (there actually was some jogging involved), just to be sure, but I made it in time.  I walked almost four miles in about 1+30!  The wind had died down by then and it was much warmer - I would have loved to stay longer.  But I had five plus hours of driving to do and didn’t want to wait another hour for the next ferry.  Fortunately, I was able to get on the road again quickly.  My route during the return was almost an exact reverse of the way I'd used to reach the area on Friday (ME-6, ME-15, ME-16, ME-151, ME-150, US-2, ME-156, US-2, NH-116, US-302) until I stopped for gas at Cumberland Farms in Littleton (1525).  After that, I used I-93 and I-91 to get home (listened to audiobooks on the way).  I arrived at my condo by 1645 and spent some time unpacking.  Thinking about my weekend, I’d definitely be glad to make a longer visit to Moosehead Lake in the future, perhaps after I’ve finished the AT.  But I still felt like I’d gotten enough Maine Vibes to keep me going until next year.  Plus, I’ve got bigger things planned for later this month - it’s time to focus all my attention on Patagonia prep!

Monson, ME (USA)

I spent the night in a tent at Shaw’s Hiker Hostel in Monson and it got quite cold!  Somehow, I wrapped myself in enough layers  (sleeping bag, long johns, blankets) to get some sleep... When I woke up (0630), I found myself surrounded by more than 30 hikers who were eagerly awaiting the big breakfast spread that started at 0700.   The food (eggs, bacon, homefries, pancakes) was awesome! It’s been almost eight years since I last stayed at Shaw’s and the business changed hands in the interim.  The new owners have expanded tremendously and the entire vibe is great.  I ran into several hikers I’d previously met (in the Whites, near Sugarloaf, etc.) and there was a good mix of NOBOs & SOBOs.  Several folks were starting the HMW and I decided to join them.  I paid for my room and the breakfast at 0810 and then packed up my car. From town, I followed Elliotsville Road north and, after crossing Big Wilson Stream, used Bodfish Valley Road to a parking area I’d used when I was in the area with my dad in August.  Starting at 0845, I hiked up Long Pond Tote Road until it intersected the AT.  Temps were in the low 40s but the sky was clear again.  I started NOBO at that point and immediately had to ford Long Pond Stream, which was knee deep and had a strong current.  Fortunately, I came prepared (brought my crocs).  It still took a little while to prep for the crossing - longer, in fact, than walking through the river took… Back in my boots, I started a long climb up the west slope of Barren Mountain.  Along the way, I saw three separate markers for “100” (AT left to go) - this was appropriate because I passed that milestone today!  But I still had work to do and couldn’t really celebrate.  Like so many of my AT hikes in Maine, the constant rocks, roots and mud made for slow going.  At some points, however, I passed viewpoints with stunning views of Lake Onawa and Borestone Mountain.  I encountered a father and son who were trying to reach the Barren Slide and hiked with them for a short time.  After we parted ways, I kept on steadily slogging up the steep slope until I reached a plateau - this was a welcome break from the climb.  But then the trail started steeply uphill again… Eventually, I reached the main summit (2670’) and got even better views - I believe I could see all the way to Sugarloaf.  There was a fire tower there that looked like it had seen better days.  Since the climb had been so hard, I decided to try to get some more mileage to avoid a revisit on another day - I continued north for another mile until I reached the Cloud Pond Shelter.  By this point, the wind had made it feel colder and I was forced to layer up.  I ate a snack before starting my backtrack but then tried to pick up the pace.  I made it to the Barren Mountain summit pretty quickly and encountered two middle aged guys who were hiking the same basic route that I was.  The main difference, however, was that they reached the AT via the Otter Pond Trail (close to the Long Pond Stream Shelter).  After listening to their description of the route, I decided I’d use that trail to get back to Bodfish Valley Road.  On the way down the mountain, I passed four NOBO Thrus but didn’t chat with them long.  I found the access trail and used it to get back to the gravel road.  From there, I returned to my car with about two miles of road walking.  The temps had risen into the low 60s by then and I really enjoyed the marvelous Fall afternoon… When I reached my car (1615), my pedometer said I’d walked over 14 miles - that may be true because my body sure felt like that distance.  Since the weather was forecasted to be nice tomorrow, I drove back to Monson.  On the way, I stopped at AMC AT Visitor Center and got LOTS of maps and information.  After my nice conversation with the caretaker there, I returned to Shaw's.  This time (probably because I was early), they gave me a semi-private room, with a screen separating me from the living room.  I also got some free beers from the Shaw's desk clerk and a Trail Angel.  Dinner was leftovers and snacks.  For the rest of the evening, I visited with hikers (most of the same people from the previous night, plus others I'd met at Hostel of Maine).  The evening was filled with great trail stories, good beer (I passed on partaking in stronger stuff) and a roaring campfire.  I went to bed at around 2200 - it’s been a great AT Hiking season!  Now just need to decide what kind of hike to do tomorrow… AT Today = 4.9 miles / Grand Total AT = 2088.3 miles / AT Left = 97.0 miles