White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworking very early - at 0725, I drove to White River Junction (UVAC) - spent 45 minutes swimming (50 lengths) - then drove home (arrived at 0915) - more teleworking]

Enfield, NH (USA)

[after work (1615), I drove to Forward's Garage so I could join the VA Medical Center Adaptive Sports Team at their Tuesday Night Cycling event (arrived at 1630) - everyone was surprised to see me because I'd been gone for so long - John and I rode on a tandem (connected set of) reclining bike(s) - he was in the lead seat - between 1700 and 1845, we to the gazebo at Lake Mascoma in Enfield and back - John did great and we logged 9 miles - afterwards, I stayed to talk with some of the other Veterans before heading home (arrived at 1930)]

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 19

Despite many years of traveling to places around the world, there has been one place that I’ve intentionally avoided: NYC. I can’t exactly pinpoint the reason but, perhaps, I’ve always associated the place with huge numbers of people and traffic. Earlier visits always gave me the feeling that I should not return again until I’d had several years of detoxification from the crush of humanity. Since I began using JFK for international travel, however, I’ve gotten a bit more comfortable using the public transportation, found some patterns in the street/avenue names and come to appreciate the amazing variety in the city’s neighborhoods that I’ve passed through on my way to catch a flight. Still, I’ve mostly done duck-in/duck-out visits and not really tried to immerse myself in the Big Apple. That changed this weekend - the logistics of my later return from Europe yesterday forced me to wait overnight for today’s Dartmouth Coach. Months ago, I’d reserved a hotel ((Hampton by Hilton on E 43rd Street) close to the bus stop and Grand Central Station and this gave be a base of operations close to landmarks in Midtown that I already know. Went to bed early last night (due to six time zone changes) so didn’t really experience the “City That Never Sleeps” - unless you consider that the nightclub 20 floors below was rocking loudly until 4 AM...  As a result of this noise, I didn’t sleep well and ended up getting up at 0345 (!) to read, blog and Duolingo.  It wasn't hard to fit in some bag packing and I was able to hit the hotel breakfast buffet at 0600 (right when they opened).  After a hearty meal, I did some more aggressive exploring of the "Big Apple", forcing myself to build some knowledge and confidence. Activities included: 7 AM Mass at St. Patrick’s Cathedral on Fifth Avenue (wow), a walk across Central Park between Trump Tower and Trump International HQ (dodging runners, bikers and dogs; first time in the park since 1988), an A Train (express) ride from Columbus Circle up to W 125th Street (interesting), a visit to Grant’s Tomb in Riverside Park (green and shady), a stroll on the edge of the Columbia campus (it was “Move In Day”), another subway ride on 1 Train (local) down from W 116th Street to W 42nd Street (hot car, ugh) and some people watching in Times Square. Lots of NYC movie scene (and “Law & Order”) deja vu throughout… Only consulted my map once (when concerned I’d done something wrong with the A Train). Overall, I was away from my hotel for close to four hours and enjoyed a pretty summer morning in NYC. And, because I didn’t have any experiences to deter my curiosity, I can imagine returning to try some other things (e.g., LIRR to Babylon or points east, checking out more sights Downtown, Yankees Game, Fleet Week). Perhaps an overnight trip on Dartmouth Coach might even be worthwhile… Those of you Manhattan-philes are probably laughing at my narrative but this small town boy needs to work his way up to “I ❤️ NY”!  As my morning exploring was ending, I got a call from Brenna (her car had been damaged when she hit a deer!).  After that, I spent time decompressing in my hotel room (1015 to 1200).  I then checked out but left my bags with the hotel front desk so I could walk over to Third Street to eat lunch.  I ended up enjoying a Haus Dog, with a flight of beers, at Bierhaus NYC (a Hofbrau affiliate).  I was finished eating at 1245 and walked back to the hotel to get my bags.  Soon after that, I was at the (nearby) Dartmouth Coach bus stop, ready to go.  I was able to board at about 1300 and then we departed at 1330.  The driver drove north on Manhattan until he could access the RFK bridge - after that, we used I-95 all the way to New Haven.  There was a young mother with a screaming son in seat across the aisle and this made it difficult to sleep (believe me, I tried).  We hit a huge traffic jam in Connecticut but finally got on I-91 (almost 30 minutes late).  We stopped to pick up another driver north of Hartford before continuing north on the Interstate.   By that point, I started listening to music and exchanging texts with Monte.  We made another stop (for a driver change) near Greenfield, MA and finally arrived in Hanover at 1905 (late).  Unfortunately, we then spent more time driving all the way around the Dartmouth construction zones... Monte picked me up (1915) and took me home (arrived at 1935).  After that, I did some unpacking, mail sorting and relaxing.  Ominously, my left foot hurt when I took off my sock - hopefully, the bursitis will calm down soon.  As usual, I shared a "Smurfey photo" with the girls.  What an amazing trip - I won't soon forget it!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 18

Last day in Europe - what a trip!  I was awake by 0515 without an alarm and spent time packing, working on Duolingo, reading, etc.  At 0700, I went to breakfast at the hotel restaurant and had some more good food.  Back in my room, I finished cleaning and packing and then went down to the lobby to meet my bus (for airport ride) at 0930.  After a pretty drive through Prague and neighborhoods on the west side of the Vltava, we arrived at the airport (1000).  Got to see Alan one more time and thanked him for his assistance.  After that, I did some collaborating with Karen (doctor from Cleveland) in order to find the Delta check-in and bag-check.  We both found it odd that there was no security at first...  Instead, we had to sit in the main area of the terminal before we were allowed through to the waiting area - we finally cleared security then (1100).  The downside of this process, though, was that we were "trapped" in that secondary waiting area until boarding time.  At 1200, we started boarding and I was one of the first people onboard (Delta Comfort Plus because I’d used some of my miles back in March).  The boarding process went alright until the crew encountered a delay for a broken overhead bin.  We took off at 1305 and had great weather for most of the flight.  I really enjoyed my seat with extra leg room!  We got red wine and lunch (pasta, salad, tiramisu) on the way and I entertained myself by watching movies (free internet was spotty).  During another service, we got some water but I wanted more - got snacks and OJ from galley in the rear of the aircraft.  This might have been unnecessary because we then got drink (red wine) service with “dessert” (some kind of Stromboli and chocolate cookie).  After a rather uneventful flight, we landed at JFK at around 1530 local.  At that point, though, we had to sit on the taxiway until we were given clearance to park (1600).  After I got off the aircraft at the terminal, I made it through Customs quickly (1615) but then had to wait on my checked bag (only about 20 minutes).  Fortunately, I then made it on the first Jamaica-bound AirTrain and reached that station by 1645.  Proceeding quickly through the ticket gate (it was nice to have a balance on my MTA card), I found the self service kiosk for LIRR.  Selecting a ticket for Grand Central Station, I once again made a slight mistake and paid a little more than I needed (but I got help in order to get it right next time).  Moving on, I was able to board a Grand Central bound LIRR train by 1655 and made good time to Midtown (1715).  Unfortunately, I had trouble selecting the correct exit from Grand Central (exited from Northwest corner) so had to make up for this problem with walking on the streets.  Still, I arrived at my hotel on East 43rd Street (Hampton by Hilton), by 1730 and was in my room (on the 20th floor) within 10 minutes.  I texted the girls to let them know I was back in the USA.  After that, I rested and got ready to go out again.  At 1800, I walked a short distance to Malone’s Irish Bar on Third Avenue, where I enjoyed a beer and an appetizer.  The vibe was good and the beer prices were surprisingly good.  Next (1910), I departed for a walk and explored the area between Third and First as well as between E 44th and E 42nd.  This small slice of the big city was already a bit familiar but I was pleasantly surprised to find a pretty enclave called Tudor City, a neighborhood that was elevated above the other streets.  It had some nice parks, views and seemed to soar above the gridlock - I almost forgot where I was because the vibe was so relaxed! During this time, I also walked near the UN headquarters, where I got views of the East River (and Brooklyn Bridge) and found some Consulates.  Arriving back at the hotel by 2000, I started to feel really tired but stayed awake for a while (trying to assimilate to East Coast time again).  Found myself watching the “Deadwood” series on TV (entertaining) but still ended up falling asleep at 2115.  I've got time to explore NYC in the morning!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 17

One more day in Prague!  I didn’t get a lot of sleep last night but the last few hours were OK.  I was, in fact, fast asleep when my alarm woke me at 0700 - strange feeling, since I normally wake on my own.  Perhaps the fatigue is finally getting to me...  I got ready quickly and then went down to breakfast in the Art Deco Imperial Hotel restaurant (0745).  This morning, they had Kolaches! Due to the limited time after my "oversleeping", I didn’t return to my room - instead, I met my tour at 0815 in the lobby.  After weeks of excursions and organized events, we finally reached the last day where I could take advantage of the wonderful local guides. Today, we had an exceptional leader, Barbara (Prague local) to show us the amazing Castle District of the city. We departed our hotel at 0830 and took a scenic route to reach it - lots of good things to see on the way. Located high above the Vltava on the opposite bank from our hotel, the destination featured spectacular views, amazing architecture and a museum that showcased the opulence of Bohemian Royalty. I was particularly interested in going inside St. Vitus Cathedral and this part of the tour did not disappoint. Despite seeing dozens of church’s during this trip, I’ve never gotten tired of looking at Gothic vaults, flying buttresses and stained glass windows. “Good King” Wenceslaus was buried there, along with another famous local saint, John of Nepomuk. The church was magnificent, inside and out, and it reminded me of the Kolner Dom. Moving on, we passed by other churches (St. George) and a convent. Another highlight nearby was the “Golden Lane”, which was initially populated by soldiers guarding the castle but later used by artists and writers (including Franz Kafka). We next went inside the Lobkowicz Palace, which used to be owned by a princely Bohemian family and is now a museum. In addition to the artistic beauty of the building itself, the walls were covered with priceless works of art. The story of the Lobkowicz family was interesting by itself - they lost, regained, lost and regained the palace between Nazi occupation and the Velvet Revolution. Meanwhile, they lived in the US and didn’t expect to ever visit Prague again. Since the 1990s, the family has orchestrated a conservation and restoration of all of the art and buildings. Several of my fellow passengers seemed annoyed that the Lobkowicz’s were back in possession but I put myself in the shoes of the young man who narrated the story on our listening devices: from pauper to prince, with responsibility for maintaining the legacy, all in a matter of days. I know I wouldn’t like to have that honor thrust on me… Our tour wrapped up at around noon with a walk down the Castle Steps into the Lesser Quarter (we met our bus there).  Overall, the Lobkowicz Palace was an interesting and beautiful place!  Once our bus returned us to the hotel, I spent some time in the room, resting and recharging.  I also checked into my flight - it's hard to believe that tomorrow is the last day of fun for this trip...  My lunch was leftover breadsticks (from Vltava cruise).  After hydrating a bit more (1400), I departed my room again so I could spend a few hours in the Jewish Quarter.  It didn't take too long for me to walk to some of the principal locations connected with the Jews in Prague - I passed a statue of Franz Kafka on the way.  I was soon immersed in learning about the long (1000+ year) history of their culture in Bohemia. At times, it was somber and sad: looking at the printed names of 80,000 Czech Jews who lost their lives in the Holocaust and viewing artwork of little Jewish children who lived in the Ghetto before they were exterminated. At other times, though, there was a sign of the unconquered Human spirit in the fact that Jews weathered the storm of political, religious, national and cultural persecution and still retained their character and community. I went inside several Synagogues, some of which had been been converted to museums and memorials, and walked through a big Jewish Cemetery. I’ve seen evidence of the Jews in nearly every city I’ve visited but, in Prague, I was impressed by how a larger part of a city was still occupied and proudly claimed by people of their faith. At one point, I was asked by a young man if I was Jewish (he was building a group for a Mitzvah) and, though I told him I wasn’t, we had a good talk about how the world is like a scale - one good deed can tilt the balance and make things better. What an encouraging message!  After finishing my time in the Jewish Quarter (1600), I walked to the Old Town Square and finally found a way inside “Tyn Church” - I’d read that Tycho Brahe was buried there and I found his tomb.  Unfortunately, no photos were allowed.  Next, I walked to a place (U Supa) where I’d seen people getting flights of six beers - I found a nice place inside and proceeded to sample them.  They were all good and I had fun talking to the server about Texas (Czech beer and kolaches).  Coincidentally, there was a Texas couple nearby and I also got to talk to them for a bit.  After finishing my (probably last on the trip) "brew culture" experience (1700), I walked back to the hotel and got ready for our Farewell Reception.  At 1800, it began in the hotel hospitality suite.  There were appetizers, drinks (Prosecco, red wine) and I had fun talking to several folks I’ve come to know over the last few weeks.  I made sure to thank Alan (AHI) and his colleagues for their excellent support during our long journey.  Afterwards, I walked with Jim, Sue, Steve and Donna to a restaurant (La Republica) where the had made a reservation.  Once inside, I finally had a chance to try the Staropramin Pivo that Gerard had mentioned - it was, of course, quite good!  My meal included local sausages and some peppers.  The evening was filled with lots of nice conversations and some farewells.  At 2115, we all walked back to the hotel and I settled into my room.  Despite the impending end of our trip, I procrastinated on packing going to bed at 2200.  Last night in Europe...

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 16

Since our group arrived in Prague last night, we’ve shifted into a “post cruise” mindset, with limited meals and organized activities. Fortunately, the wonderful weather (70s and sunny) is conducive to my kind of activity and I’ve been planning walks for days. This morning, I was awake by 0630 and spent some time reading and relaxing (including a bath - ahhh).  Next (0730), I got dressed and went to breakfast in the hotel restaurant with other members of the tour.  Afterwards, I got info about the itinerary/plan for the day and then went to my room to get my stuff for the excursion.  By 0845, I was back in the lobby, ready to go!  Before the “Jim Time” resumed, though, we were offered a guided walking tour of the Old Town and Charles Bridge (0900 start). I decided to follow along with our guide from yesterday, Andrea, and we were given some extensive background on many of the streets I’d walked last night. The tempo was VERY slow, though, and it was quite frustrating to stand as much as we did. Despite the snail’s pace, I learned a lot about the history of the area near our hotel (Republic Square), several interesting and historic buildings (Municipal Hall, Astronomical Clock Tower, etc.) and prominent Czech dissidents, saints, scientists (e.g., Wenceslaus, Charles IV, Tycho Brahe, Johannes Kepler, Jan Hus, Franz Kafka) and heroes. Andrea was very helpful and knowledgeable so I didn’t drift very far until after we arrived at the famous Charles Bridge. This is a very crowded place and our group was quite large - this meant it was almost impossible to stay together. So, I took advantage of this fact and walked all the way across the Vltava River (into the Lesser Quarter) before Andrea had cleared the eastern gates. Satisfied I’d gotten as much as I could from staying with the crowd, I walked back to the eastern side of the river and wandered into areas we hadn’t yet seen. This included finding myself inside the courtyard of an astronomical building that included a library from the 13th Century, marveling at artwork in several pretty churches of varied architectural styles (St. Nicholas, St. Francis, St. James) and relaxing at a table on Republic Square with two different kinds of Czech beer (light and dark) and some Prague Ham. The morning was quite eventful and I was away from the hotel until almost 1400. Observation: this city is a complicated maze of streets and it’s taken me longer than normal to find familiar landmarks. But I love the unique books and crannies and surprising artwork on walls. I think the fact the city survived the World Wars nearly intact has allowed it to retain all the little medieval, Baroque, Art Deco and Communist styles. Back in the hotel, I read and then took a nap (while charging my phone) for about two hours.  My main reason for waiting to explore some more was because I thought that Steve and Jim would call so we could go taste beer together.  However, they never did... After a nice break (1700), I visited the hotel concierge, who helped me get a ticket for an evening Cruise on the Vltava.  That wasn't going to start for a few hours, though, so I departed my hotel in search of more views, history and beer on the north side of Old Town. I initially walked north to the Vltava River and explored the waterfront. While poking along in some neighborhoods nearby, I found an open side door of a pretty church building and went inside. The whole place seemed to be gutted but I started to see little information plaques that indicated I was inside the extensive grounds of the St. Agnes of Bohemia Convent. This building celebrated a well regarded member of the Bohemian Royal Family (13th Century) and was apparently a museum. Eventually, I found the entrance and departed before learning if I’d needed a ticket. I began searching for some of the historic Synagogues nearby but was interrupted by a request from some of the ND guys (Jim and Steve) to meet for (more beer). Starting at 1815, we had a happy hour with 0.5 liter drinks (I had light and dark beer mixed). These guys have been great, inviting me to dinner with them and their wives - it will be sad to say goodbye to them… Afterwards, I headed south and into the New Town (Nove Mesto). My ultimate goal was Wenceslaus Square, which required some skillful navigation through lots of “T” shaped intersections. The sun was setting behind the hills on the other side of the Vltava and the shadows produced a soothing effect (pleasant temps, quiet conversations, etc.). I located the statue of the famous “Good King” of Christmas Carol fame and then made my way west to the river’s edge. After getting through another maze of streets, I emerged near Slovansky Island. The river was covered in all kinds of pedal-powered boats (some shaped like swans and cars) - it looked so fun and relaxing! I walked north along the river so I could reach the next activity of my busy day - all the way, I enjoyed the shadowy effects of the gloaming. Prague is quite pretty in the different kinds of light!  By this point, I was ready to head towards the launch site for the Vltava Cruise.  I located the spot pretty easily but then had to figure out the queue - eventually, I figured out I was in the correct location.  We boarded quickly but I didn't get one of the good seats.  Instead, I ended up next to a group of happy/rowdy kids.  But, at least, everyone was in good spirits. After we launched (2100), I really soaked up the ambiance of Prague from the water.  The lights on the buildings and bridges made for wonderful views and the waning “Super Blue Moon” made a spectacular appearance. Our 50 minutes on the river allowed us to see the city from between the Charles Bridge and Stvanice Island. All the while, Smetana’s famous composition of “Ma Vlast” (especially the part entailed “Vltava”) played on the ship’s loudspeakers. My ticket included a glass of Proseco and I enjoyed that touch too.  Very glad to have had such an awesome experience!  I was off the boat just before 2200 and I walked back to the hotel by streets that have started to seem familiar.  In my room again, I did some blogging and then read a bit before going to bed (0015).  After such a fun-filled and stimulating day, I had trouble getting to sleep (tossing for more than an hour).  Still - what a day!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 15

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 10! After nine fun-filled and beautiful sailing days, we reached the end of our Danube Journey.  My last sleep aboard the ship was full of lots of bumps in the night (I learned later that we'd had to clear several locks during heavy rain and wind.  I was awake at 0530 and spent more than an hour packing, reading and doing Duolingo exercises (this was also the time when I paid for my room mandatory gratuities).  At 0700, I went to breakfast (my last meal on the ship).  While I was eating, I we passed through more locks.  Back in my room, I cleaned up for the last time and left bags in the passageway.  Though I felt like resting until it was time to depart, I decided to spend time walking on Sun Deck.  There was some very pretty fog - due to the cooler weather.  At around this time, I also talked to many of the crewmembers and gave tips to exceptional staff (Suci & Kadek & my room cleaner).  While talking with other passengers, learned it was Father Pat’s birthday yesterday and I was able to wish him many happy returns.  Overall, I believe this morning was the best, weather wise, we've had during the whole trip but most of the other passengers thought it was "too cold" (60s F).  We crossed into Germany (my first time there since before I retired from the military) before 0930 and were docked in Passau by 0945.  About 15 minutes later, we boarded busses parked on the pier and left for a tour of the town.  Our departure from "Amadeus Riva" for the last time was bittersweet.  To get to the area where we'd have our walking excursion for the morning, we had to travel through a long tunnel under the mountain.  Apparently, the only means to reach the city center in the past was to travel there by boat. The little German town, located at the junction of three rivers (Inn, Ilz, Danau) reminded me a little of Pittsburgh but also had the distinction of being at the crossroads of several countries who relied on the river traffic in ancient times. Our local guide, Daniel, took us through the pretty, cobblestoned streets and told us a lot about Passat’s history and unique place in the trade between empires. He was a teacher (off for summer break) and was a very guide, sharing stories about life in his hometown and the education of young people in Germany. We had to climb and descend a lot of stairs because Passau has always been prone to flooding. This was such a pretty place - and far eastern part of Bavaria, a fact I’d not considered prior to this trip. It was also a Catholic Bishopric which made it unique in the make up of the population (i.e., only Catholics lived there all the way up to 1945). The tour lasted from about 1015 to 1145 and we then were given some free time. I wanted to see more of the riverfront do walked down the hill on the Danube and walked along rows and rows of cruise ships and “party cruise boats.” Ultimately, I walked all the way to the end of the peninsula, where the Danube and Inn Rivers mixed. Very pretty. I then made my way back towards the restaurant (I believe it was called something like “Peschl-Terrasse”) where our group was supposed to meet at 1230. The walk ended up being longer than I’d planned so I was about 10 minutes late. It didn’t matter, through, because they still fed me well: local beer (house lager), salad, Wiener Schnitzel, boiled potatoes and apple strudel! It started raining while we were eating so I skipped the next “free time” we received and just relaxed on the comfortable (and covered) terrace. We had to meet our buses at 1345 so I used my umbrella during the walk (glad I brought it). We departed Passau and the Danube at 1400 - this was another bittersweet moment...  We drove north on Route 12 toward Prague, which was located about 165 KM away.  Andrea, our local guide lady, spent a lot of the drive talking about the history of the area and prepping us for our arrival in Prague.  She was interesting and upbeat and, before long, I realized we had crossed into the Czech Republic without noticing it (I never saw the sign).  Meanwhile, the weather improved.  We took CR-4 to the north through the old region of Sudetenland, an “Iron Curtain” no-mans-land that was very mountainous, forested and had lots of road construction zones.  At 1605, we stopped for a bathroom break at a gas station in Strakonice.  While there, I got some gummy bears (good sugar rush).  After getting everyone to deign to rejoin us on the bus, we got on our way again.  CR-4 eventually transformed into a more modern highway but I noticed that some of it wasn’t finished.  Andrea continued providing information about history, agriculture, architecture and culture.  In the background, she had music playing - this was "Ma Vlast", by Smetana, a piece that my mom had introduced me to in the 1980s with a cassette tape.  As has happened with several other key moments during the entire trip, I thought about her at that moment.  We made it to the outskirts of Prague by 1745 but it took another 30 minutes to reach our hotel, the Art Deco Imperial.  By then (1820), I was quite tired and was happy to get my room key rather quickly.  Unfortunately, I then had to wait for more than an hour for my bag to be brought to the room.  Meanwhile, the ND folks had made a reservation for dinner and asked me to join them - of course, I accepted!  Soon after I’d made a call to the front desk (a rare “complaint” for this trip), my bag arrived at the door.  Feelin relieved, I changed clothes and went downstairs to join Steve and Donna, Jim and Sue (1945) at the Impreal Cafe (hotel restaurant).  Hoping to get into the local cuisine and "brew culture", I tried a local dark beer (Sumavsky Special, almost like stout), turkey club sandwich and lots of good conversation.  We finished eating our delicious meal just after 2100.  Afterwards, I went walking with Jim and Sue.  It was a pleasant evening!  They dropped off near the Powder Tower but I continued walking until I reached Old Town Square (Stare Mesto) - less than 10 minutes after I'd departed my hotel.  Along the way, caught glimpses of St. Nicholas Cathedral, Old Town Hall, Jan Huss Monument, Marian Column and Church of Our Lady Before Tyn. Encountered a lot of Bright Young Things walking in the square and enjoying a wonderful evening with friends. Despite the maze of streets, I made it back to the hotel at 2200 without too many issues.  Before heading to bed, I did some blogging and reading - I fell asleep at 2315.  With just a little time this evening, I can feel a great vibe in this fascinating city!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 14

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 9! Our day began with some scenic cruising of the famous (and beautiful) Wachau Valley. I didn’t go topside immediately (after waking up at 0600) but spent some time in my room reading and catching up on social media.  After breakfast, I made my way to the Sun Deck for some walking and was treated to very beautiful scenery on both sides of the “Danau” (Danube). Our first port visit today was at the little town of Durnstein, known for its vineyards and for castle where Richard the Lionhearted was held prisoner for during the Crusades. On top of the history, our early morning excursion was biking - what a treat! At 0815, we walked off the ship to waiting “beach cruisers” and headed east (i.e., back down the river) on a beautiful paved bike trail. Our guides were Maggie (lead) and Lies (a real ham).  The weather was pleasant - low 70s - and the overcast was still great for cycling. There were about 20 of us and there wasn’t much time for photos but I made the best of my opportunities. The ride included cobblestones, narrow streets, historic buildings and lots of grape vines. There was, apparently, a huge battle nearby (Austrian victory) during the Napoleonic Era but I didn’t see any historic markers. After about four miles of cycling, we stopped for refreshments at Hein Spiele.  We had hot chocolate, water and assorted sweets - I am still not certain of the names of the pastries but I heard names like banana schnitte, Sachertorte, fruit schnitte. We then headed back towards the ship and enjoyed the improving weather (sunny and low 80s). The group got spread out much more and I was able to stop for a lot of photos and take my time.  We ended up getting a group photo eventually and everyone's faces showed what a great time we had.  After returning the bikes, I took a walk (downriver) towards Durnstein.  I'd learned that this place was where King Richard the Lion Heart was held captive during the Crusades and the winding streets of the citadel seemed almost as old as that period.  There were amazing views (from the top of the hill) of the Danube, some pretty church buildings, lots of tourist shops and cafes and a wonderful Medieval feeling throughout. I had enough time to wander the old city streets and marvel at the strong river current before I had to get back on the ship again.  I found a marker with the flood levels (impressive) but was shocked to learn later that one of the previous summers had such a dry year that people could walk across the river to the other side!  Today, though, the water was high enough that the little ferries (running between both banks) had to add a huge crab to their course in order to reach their target.  Our ship departed the port at 1130 and then made our way farther west (upriver) through the Valley.  I spent time on the Sun Deck, watching the pretty scenery, before enjoying a light lunch (more pasta) at noon.  The dessert was another version of the Schmarrn (Vienna pancake).  During the meal, I had another long talk with Bill & Pat (Emory) and Ron & Sandy (ND) - later, I helped Ron with WhatsApp.  Next, I spent another hour on the Sun Deck, watching as our ship passed more pretty scenery in the Wachau. Almost every town was a gem of architecture and Austrian beauty and there were high cliffs in several places. Lots more vineyards were visible and we learned the region is famous for its vintages. At 1415, we tied up at another pier - this time at the famous town of Melk. This stop allowed for a treat - since we’d stayed on schedule, there was enough time for another excursion.  Most of us eagerly boarded the shuttle buses that had been hired to take us up a high hill to the Abbey (“Stift”). Time was short so the excursion ended up mostly being about the interior of the Benedictine Monastery - unfortunately, photos were forbidden. We had a wonderful young lady, Maria Theresa (a student who graduated from the Abbey School) as our guide and she took us through a series of rooms with lots of historical, artistic and learned artifacts. I’d learned earlier in the day that many of the religious orders had founded plain monasteries in this area at about the time of the founding of the Holy Roman Empire. The monks in Melk continued a simple life, living by the Order of St. Benedict, until the start of the Reformation. After that, the strongly Catholic monarchs of the region amply rewarded the monks in Melk (and most other nearby places), with extensive patronage. This caused an explosion of opulent buildings on the site of the former simple buildings. We learned that the fancy “palace-like” buildings were supposed to show God’s glory on earth. The imposing Abbey, located high above town and the Danube, was spectacular. I’m not sure how many people it led to conversion, though… One major highlight of the visit was seeing a small sampling of the 120,000 books of the Abbey’s library. Imagine how much one monk would learn in such an environment. The books are now shareable with a University in Vienna so the world benefits from a nearly 1000 year tradition of learning. The interior of the church was quite impressive too - wish I could have taken photos. As I’ve seen at most sites on this trip, the Abbey was undergoing a massive renovation project so it wasn’t possible to get ground level views of much. I did learn (towards the end of our visit) that I could access the grounds of the gardens with my entry ticket so I walked around there for a little while before it was time to leave (1645). Fifteen minutes later, we were back on the ship and, almost immediately, we left the pier.  For a little while, I walked on the deck, waving to oaters and homeowners on the Danube.  After that, I spent some time getting ready for our disembarkation the next day.  Next, I got ready for the Captain’s Reception (1830), where I met (and got to thank) the crew.  Bitburger was flowing freely and I enjoyed some of it.  We passed through a big lock during this time, one of the last we'd see during our river journey.  At 1930, we attended a fancy Farewell Dinner (salad, dumplings, sherbet, beet gnocchi).  Dessert was Baked Alaska (with “fireworks”) and we again got to thank the crew.  During this meal, I sat with Jim and Steve (ND) and their wives.  Afterwards (2115), I briefly considered going on deck but decided to retire to my cabin.  Finished blogging for the day and went to sleep at 2215.  We are now headed to Germany - wish this cruise didn’t need to end…

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 13

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 8! We docked in Vienna (near the Reichsbrucke Bridge over the Danube) before sunrise but, like most other days, had less than 24 hours allocated for activities ashore.  I was awake at 0630 (after sleeping alright) and spent some time reading, blogging and working on Duolingo exercises.  After that, I got ready and went to breakfast at 0730.  I joined the “Timeless Vienna” lecture that took place before the excursions started - I was hoping to gain a little more insight into the city.  Even without this, though, I had already spent days planning the things I wanted to do with the limited time.  After all that, I was itching to leave the ship when our excursions began (0915). With recommendations from Gerard (a cousin with extensive experience in Wien), I decided to take the group tour (by bus) to Schloss Schonbrunn, the summer palace of the Hapsburgs during the 18th Century. For the first day during our whole cruise, the weather started and remained in the 70s! It was still sunny but it seemed that recent storms had cleared out most of the heat and humidity - such a relief! While boarding the buses, I noticed that we were parked immediately in front of a beautiful church (St. Francis of Assisi) - what a nice start to the day. We made our way through the Prater Park towards the Danube Canal and then joined the eastern arc of the famous Ringstrasse. Our guide, a lady named Varina, pointed out good historical, architectural and cultural landmarks as we made our way towards the Palace. Arriving just after 1000, we were given an excellent tour of the main building (1000 rooms total but we only visited about 25). Everything was quite opulent and it was clearly a favorite residence of the royal family. Much of the tour was dedicated to learning about Empress Maria Theresa - designs/decorations were mostly her idea. After the tour, we got to explore the extensive gardens and I made the most of the hour I had. Got lost in topiary mazes, marveled at beautiful flowers and statuary, climbed the hill behind the Palace to visit a pretty fountain and then even higher to see an interesting monument. This latter landmark provided a spectacular view of the entire Viennese skyline - wow! I had to really hustle to reach the bus before it departed (1200) but was able then to enjoy a continuation of the clockwise circumnavigation of the Ringstrasse (this time, the western half). After such a great tour, I realized I didn't have cash for a tip for the guide - dang (will need to do better with that...).  We arrived back at the ship by 1300 and I went to my room for some cleaning up and repacking.  After that, I went to lunch (and liquids!) in Promenade Lounge, hoping fuel up before catching the 1430 shuttle bus (provided by the ship) to the City Center. I was actually the only person on board (strange) but I was glad for the ride.  We arrived in Schwedenplatz at 1500 and I immediately began my systematic Recce of Vienna. I had a few location goals in mind: St. Stephan’s Cathedral, the Hapsburg Imperial Crypt, the State Opera House and the Hofberg (Imperial Palace).  The latter location was HUGE - it took me a long time to navigate small courtyards, narrow passageways and large gardens just to see it all. For anyone who knows Vienna, the photos likely show an experimental navigation - it might be true. Trying to save my phone battery, I just explored with patience and curiosity, trying left and right passages before straight. I’d never admit I got lost but there were a few “I’ve been here already” moments before I found the “correct” path.  During my 3+ hour trek, I reached almost all of the places I'd hoped to see - and many others besides (e.g., Anker Clock, Mozart Death House, St. Augustin Church, Albertina Museum grounds, Parliament and Rathausplatz). I found Vienna to be an amazing, walkable city, with landmarks, monuments, architectural masterpieces and green parks visible from almost every corner. Actually, I never got bored all afternoon! My initial route basically bisected the center of the zone inside the Ringstrasse and I only had to pay for a ticket at one place (Crypt) - otherwise, everything was free. This was partly because some museums were closed on Mondays while others (e.g., Opera Tour, Treasury Tour, Lipizzaner Riding School) closed just before I reached them. Undeterred, I went crazy taking photos as I kept unwinding string on my walk through a maze of streets. I probably ended up walking the entire western half of the Ringstrasse arc - more than six miles without really stopping. Actually, that fact made me feel even better: heal bursitis may be gone! The sun was shining, a gentle (and cool) breeze was blowing and the crowds parted when they say my determined face and gait. At about 1815, I decided I wanted some local food and wandered a few more streets before stumbling across Heindl’s Schmarren & Palatschinkenkuchl (restaurant). My authentic Wiener dinner included: Zwettler Original (lager), a salad with tart dressing, Wiener Schnitzel, roasted potatoes, Styrean Apple Schmarren (house dessert specialty) and a shot of Weiser Williams Pear schnapps. The ambiance was wonderful and all of the food/drink was delicious.  By 1930, I arrived back at Schwedenplatz after an amazing afternoon - I’m blown away by this wonderful city!  Without much difficulty, I located the last shuttle bus bound for the ship - once again, I was the only passenger onboard when we left the City Center. Once aboard, I changed clothing and headed for the restaurant.  I arrived after most of the courses had been served but I managed to get glass of wine.  It was good that I'd showed up, though, because I ended up needing to help Steve (bad back) get out of his chair and up the stairs.  Most of the passengers (including me) next attended a Viennese music and dance performance in the Promenade Lounge (2100 to 2145).  The youngsters who were showing us the beautiful moves were engaging and smiled throughout their rounds on the dance floor.  Unbeatable!  Like we've seen in other cases during this cruise, the demonstration had an interactive quality - I didn't join the dancers but several other passengers did.  Afterwards, I returned to my room and did some blogging and reading.  Headed to bed at 2300 after an unforgettable day - there is no doubt that this city deserves a revisit

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 12

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 7!  I slept fitfully last night (weather) and was wide awake by 0630.  Spent some time reading and Duolingo; later went on deck for almost 40 minutes of walking, audiobooks and photos.  The crew was busy wiping down the decks after the heavy showers.  The Danube was visibly narrower and shallower - I enjoyed watching barges and cruise ships having to jockey for position (current, buoys, etc.).  I was a bit disappointed that we’d passed through the Danube Bend during the night but the rural scenery later was still pleasant. We passed many rural campsites along the water's edge.  At 0800, I attended Mass (with Father Pat, ND) in the Amadeus Club.  I got breakfast afterwards and, by 0900, I was in my room, reading about Bratislava.  We continued cruising all morning, , straddling the borders of Hungary and Slovakia, and completed a transit of the Gobcikovo Lock (0930) with MS Amadeus Nova (built in 2024).  I attended a “Disembarkation” Brief (for Passau, Germany) & Port Brief (1015).  During this time, I noticed busy bike trails following the River’s edge on both sides.  Resting in my room after this, I did some more Bratislava excursion prep and Vienna research.  Meanwhile, lots of people were bailing on their excursion choices (there was a handwritten “explosion” of interest in the “Music” tour).  At 1300, I went down to eat lunch (more delicious pasta and some Monte Cristo sandwiches) in the Promenade Lounge.  By 1345, we had docked in Bratislava, Slovakia and I was one of the first passengers off the ship. There were some interesting excursions planned for later in the day but they weren’t expected to visit several points of interest that interested me. At first, I stayed with fellow passengers but it soon became clear that they only wanted to shop. I detached from them and explored several streets in the Central Square, photographing many interesting buildings. Highlights included: the Opera House, the Roland Fountain, the Primate’s Palace and the Michael Gate. At the latter location, I made my way through the old city wall boundary before encountering neighborhoods and office buildings. My main target was a place well off the beaten path: the Blue Church. This took some sleuthing to find but I was soon marveling at the Robin’s egg colored walls and interior decorations. Very pretty! Working my way back towards the Danube, I made stops at a large mall complex and partially crossed the “Old” Bridge. It was only then that I realized there was another tier to the city skyline: from the high vantage point, I could clearly see the Hrad (castle) that dominated the higher part of the terrain. Unfortunately, I was too far away to visit in person… Our ship was nearly below the bridge so I returned there to change out my sweaty clothes (it was in the 90s again) before the official excursions began at 1515. Joining the “Bratislava City Highlights” tour, with local guide Eva, my walking pace slowed to a crawl as we made our way over some of the same ground I’d earlier covered. The tour ended up being better, though, because there was some excellent commentary and exposure to things I’d missed. We made our way farther west until we reached the Holocaust Memorial and Cathedral of St. Martin. We spent some interesting time there before walking into the Central Square. Eva pointed out lots of historical markers, local landmarks and told us the backstory on life under the Hapsburgs. It was easy to see that the Slovaks love gelato - there were stores on nearly every street!  We reached a little coffee shop (Kaffee Mayer) where our tour group was treated to pieces of “sachertorte” (chocolate cake). While at the rest stop, I also ordered a brandy-like drink, Tatratea (Original flavor, 52% alcohol) - it packed a good punch! The group walk was supposed to continue but I’d noticed a nearby Beer Hall and asked to be excused. One of my new ND friends, Steve, had expressed an interest in trying a flight of drinks there so we walked back there. We ended up trying four local drafts, all from the Sladovna Brewery - each Slovak taster was great! Our time in Bratislava was rapidly coming to an end as we finished our flight (1800) so we headed back to the ship before “All Aboard”. The rest of my evening was spent with another delicious dinner (salad, soup, chicken medallions) and (red) wine.  I talked a lot with an older couple from NY (Binghamton) whose love story was portrayed in a NYT article and later went topside with several others.  Throughout the evening, I heard more of the “you are a baby” comments because of my "youth" compared to the other passengers...  Speaking of this, I finally determined there were two younger (40s/50s?) couples onboard with me.  However, they were very lovey dovey and only one of the four (a guy) has spoken a word to me all cruise.  Still feeling good about being a solo traveler but the age discrepancy is stark.  Before heading to my room again, I stopped on the Sun Deck to enjoy the interesting scenery and pleasant evening breezes. After that, I did some blogging until bed (2315).  We are now fully in Austria - tomorrow should be epic!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 11

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 6! I was awake early (0515, intentionally) because I wanted to see the sun rising over Budapest. We had moored near the “Liberty Bridge” on the Pest (east) side of the Danube - the photos I took were only pretty previews of the coming day. Surprisingly, I was the only passenger on the Sun Deck between 0545 and 0645 but I (again) enjoyed the solitude and silence. After doing some reading and day planning (maps, etc.), I explored the “Early Riser Breakfast” venue (also deserted) and spoke with some members of the crew (0730). After finishing, I returned to my room to get ready for our day ashore.  The passengers were split into three groups for their excursions and, for once, I had selected the most popular tour: “Budapest Highlights” (the other two were for the Jewish Quarter and another “Foodie” venue). We all boarded our buses at 0900 and were driven through popular areas of the city, first through the Pest (east) side and later (by way of Elizabeth Bridge) through the Buda (west) side. Our tour guide for the initial drive, Rita, talked a mile a minute and was pointing at so many things (Synagogue, St. Steven’s, Opera House, embassies, etc.) that most words failed to register. Instead, I desperately tried to get photo angles that would depict at least some of the grandeur, beauty and context of these landmarks. On top of the high speed narration, she told stories with little relevance to our drive and never really mentioned anything about the city’s history. We eventually made a quick circuit around Heroes’ Square and then backtracked towards our starting point. For most of this hour of driving, I felt like the Griswold Family trapped on the English Roundabout. Somehow, a few of the photos turned out alright... As we approached the base of Castle Hill (Buda), I grew tired of all the speaking and started tuning out Rita. I was fortunate at this point that our bus made a mad dash (amazing bus driver skills) through a tunnel - this silenced the tour guide. We ended up at a roundabout near the funicular station and west end of the famous Chain Bridge. We quickly returned back through the tunnel and parked. From there, we were driven on little electric “golf cart buses” towards the top of the hill. We actually drove through the tunnel and circuited the roundabout again to get there - baffling... One bonus: now we had a different guide, a man named Doha. Once at the top, we walked together through a crowded square (thousands of people were there) in front of Matthias Church. Doha took us inside the amazing building, which used to be the site of the Coronation ceremonies for Hungarian Kings (including some Hapsburgs). After about 30 minutes of information about history, architecture, art and music, we were told we had an hour to explore. Taking advantage of some advice given to my by my cousin (Gerard), I quickly made a bee line for the Fisherman’s Bastion - from there, it was possible to see spectacular views of the entire city, the Danube and miles of surrounding countryside. Just seeing the Parliament House from that vantage point made a trip to the top of this hill worthwhile! Fighting my way through some crowds, I next walked to Buda Tower, a tall building built in memory of Mary Magdalen. Nearby, I took lots of photos of Holocaust Memorial placards, many interesting buildings and some remnants of the castle walls. It was quite hot (95 F) and sunny and I was soon drenched with sweat. Remembering on anecdote provided by Doha, I detoured into the Hilton Hotel and located (after passing through their Bar) the ruins of a 13th Century Dominican Monastery, an old church tower dedicated to St. Nicholas, the facade of a Jesuit school, a wine cellar and a Roman Milestone. All had been discovered during the building of the hotel and each was cleverly incorporated into the hotel’s day-to-day workings. Very nice find! Returning back towards Matthias Church, I had to join up with my group (1200) - fortunately, our leaders carried prominent signs that couldn’t be missed. We got a real treat at noon, when the church bells and nearby building clocks began to chime. A young bride was getting ready to walk into the church on her dad’s arm - would have stayed to watch but we started walking away too soon… Meanwhile, the clear blue sky had changed dramatically to dark and ominous, with lightning striking targets to the north. Our ride down the hill in the little golf carts (open to the elements) seemed like flimsy transportation but the weather held off, luckily. We were waiting for some folks with mobility problems during this scenario and this led to some heavy duty frustration on the part of some of my fellow passengers. Our tour directors and guides were patient and resourceful (though I could tell they weren’t enjoying the constant ignoring of instructions, arguing and passive aggressive tactics). For my part, I really enjoyed my breezy ride downhill, got into a comfy bus seat, sipped my water and watched as the skies opened up during my ride to the ship. We re-boarded by 1300 after an amazing morning of sight seeing and incredible experiences.  I immediately made my way to lunch - much of it was traditional Hungarian fare (salad with polenta & citrus fruit, “paprika flavored” soup, goulash with rotini pasta, “soft cake” for dessert).  With Bitburger (2) accompanying the food, I did some more visiting with nice ND folks, Emory folks and Nancy.  Afterwards, I changed and repacked for my afternoon adventure - we got SEVEN free hours to explore and I was determined to go out again, rain or shine!  (I forgot to mention that I tried to find other people to walk with me during my trek around Budapest. In the end, I was completely unsuccessful - everyone else wanted to sleep and avoid more walking.) So, I departed the ship alone at 1415. Budapest is the kind of place it would take a week to REALLY visit and explore. Sadly, we will be departing this evening so my time and options were extremely limited. With help from Gerard (my cousin who visited Hungary in the 1980s) and some useful guidebooks, I had a few targets in mind. One was the famous Holocaust Memorial called “Shoes on the Danube”. I noticed they’d be easy to locate if I just walked north on the Pest side. The rain had stopped and the overcast kept the heat down a little bit - still, 90 with humidity is still hot… A benefit of using this route was that I was able to get some steps on the Chain Bridge (pedestrian only). After walking on some closed streets (set up that way for a September 20 National Celebration), I reached the somber landmark (1445). It was actually quite crowded and I’m not exactly certain how I got two good photos. Moving north a bit further, I arrived at the spectacular - I really mean it - Parliament Building. I could have stayed there for hours, marveling at all the detail, but it started to rain at about this point. Walking east, I reached Liberty Square, which seemed to be a monument to the freedoms gained with the fall of Communism - there were statues of Ronald Reagan and GHW Bush located in prominent places. I next checked out some shopping and eating areas as I made my way towards the Basilica of St. Stephen (the king of the Magyars who decided his people should be Christians). I’d hoped to go inside but the queue for tickets was horrendously long (because if the rain). Instead, I walked east until I could see the tall towers of the Dohany Street Synagogue. This interesting architectural wonder has been maintained as a somber monument to the terrible treatment the Jews received during WW2. While it was closed for the Sabbath, I was able to get a feel for the place from the outside. Walking south and west, I headed towards the Great Market Hall. Some folks on the ship had visited it early in the day but it was closed by the time I arrived (1610). I was able to briefly go inside, though, and got a feel for the magnitude of how many “shopping type” people would be really happy to visit. Departing, I decided to cross the Liberty Bridge to explore some other interesting landmarks - this time on the Buda side. I climbed part of Gellert Hill, named for the Saint (and Martyr) who first brought Christianity to the Magyars. There was an interesting Cave Church up there and I explored it for a little bit. I briefly considered climbing the rest of the hill but was so drenched in sweat (the full on summer sunshine had returned) that it didn’t feel like a smart idea.  Up until this point, I'd hoped to go to church in Budapest but never did find a Saturday Mass during my rambles.  Instead, I went back towards the Danube and visited the Gellert Hotel, which contains refreshing thermal baths. Oh how I wanted to use them! I hadn’t brought a suit, though, and was getting tired of walking. Reluctantly, I backtracked across the river until I could see my ship. Hoping to spend my remaining Hungarian Forints on a local beer, I looked for a small cafe - spotting one just across the street from the pier, I grabbed a comfortable (covered) seat at Anna Café. I asked the waitress if she could recommend both a brew and local dessert. She came through on both counts: I enjoyed one of the house lagers and fell in love with one of their “cake-inspired” ice cream sundaes. Gorging myself in the pleasant shade, I almost forgot that I’d only been in Budapest for one day. What a day it was, though! August 17 = a whirlwind of over eight miles of walking, photos aplenty, historical geekery and comparing architectural styles. As I boarded the ship at 1730, I was convinced that it might take weeks to really see the city. Maybe I should start planning my return...  Since I'd already eaten, I spent some time in my room, resting, reading, blogging, doing Duolingo and drying off.  During this window, I skipped the Port Brief but eventually thought it might be nice to join everyone in the Dining Room.  I arrived at the moment of last course and got to taste some pork loin with mashed potatoes (delicious).  Also sampled a bit of Greek Salad & Chardonnay wine and even met the sous chef.  As all the passengers departed the dining area, I followed the crowd to the Sun Deck as the ship got underway (2100).  Departing from our pier, we resumed our course upriver. We’d been promised an unforgettable passage through Budapest and I’d have to say the crew delivered! Cruising serenely, surrounded by unpredictable smaller vessels, Amadeus Riva blasted out the bars of “The Beautiful Blue Danube” (by Strauss) as we passed thousands of lights on nearly every historic building, all the bridges and the Parliament House. We were also given champagne to celebrate the experience. Goosebumps! The temps had dropped significantly and there was a stiff breeze so most everyone went below after we reached the north end of Margaret Island. Unlike them, though, I stayed (along with a new fisherman friend, Steve from ND) in my easy chair on the bow until we reached the Megyeri Bridge (Route M0 “Beltway” for Budapest).  While watching lights on the shore, the rest of the darkness was split by lightning in the distance - it began threatening even worse as we approached the Danube Bend.  After leaving the Sun Deck, I did a small amount of reading before bed (2245).  As I drifted off to sleep, I heard the sounds of some serious rain and wind...  Spectacular finish to an unbeatable day!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 10

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 5!  Awoke this morning (0630) to find that my cold was almost gone.  During the last few days, I've been thinking about how almost everyone in the Notre Dame group has been coughing and sneezing and it occurred to me that we might have all gotten the bug during our first Mass on August 11.  Two members of our group actually tested positive for COVID and have spent a few days in seclusion - they reappeared at breakfast this morning.  For my part, I enjoyed another nice selection of food (0700) before returning to my room to read, do some Duolingo exercises and wash some clothing in my sink.  After that, I got ready for our excursion in Mohacs, Hungary.  After my failed attempt to find entertainment last evening, I hoped for some bigger signs of life this morning.  Strangely, though, there didn't appear to be any while I was walking to the tour buses or driving out to the city limits (0830). It seems that Mohacs may only be busy during the annual Buso Carnival (held the week before Lent begins); I’d learned a bit about this event when visiting the nearby (related) region of Croatia and was pleased to see life size statues of the fearsome men in sheepskin clothing in the center of a roundabout. After passing this, our bus driver took us on a 45 minute excursion to the west, through familiar terrain that we’ve been seeing since the beginning of the cruise: flat, fertile farmland spreads out to the horizon in every direction. The other University that usually shares our bus is Iowa State and they loved what they saw. We passed plantings of maize/corn (for livestock), soybeans, beat root, sunflowers (for the locally popular cooking oil) and - perhaps most importantly, paprika (Hungary’s “National Spice”). Our local guide, a lady named Zsuzsi (“Susie”) told us all about our upcoming destination: her hometown of Pecs (“Payche”). Unlike Mohacs, this was a bonafide city of more than a quarter of a million people. And, unlike every other place I’ve visited during my trip, it was a place that had not been damaged (apparently at all) in any recent wars. Instead, it was a picturesque place with vibrant colors, over a millennium of architectural styles and busy streets. We were dropped off at a place near the center of town that I later learned was called the “Bishopric of Pecs”. The area near a complex of church buildings contained remnants of the city walls, Roman ruins visible through glass on the walkways, public granaries and water sources, stunningly affluent church offices and residences, creative artwork and plazas surrounded by shady groves of Magnolia trees. The centerpiece of all of this was the beautiful (1000 year old) Cathedral (Ss. Peter & Paul). We went inside and, along with the beautiful artwork, were treated to an a cappella performance by our guide in the acoustically pleasing crypt, a demonstration of the 6000 pipe organ and a lesson in episcopal numerology and colors (e.g., 33 windows for Christ’s age, seven squares for the seven Sacraments, etc.). Just a visit to this building would have been enough for me but we continued exploring nearby. Along the way, we noticed more commonalities with earlier towns: old churches (even the Cathedral) forcibly converted to mosques and then back to churches, a Holy Trinity statue in the main square (celebrating the end of the Black Death), a mosque and synagogue (both restored at public expense, despite low numbers of attendees) and lots of other interesting architecture that merged the Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim character of the region. After visiting buildings of a busy university, we had about 30 minutes to explore and I maximized this time. Despite the heat (100 F again), I covered several additional blocks and discovered more history, art, culture and language sprinkled among the props of the daily lives of the residents. It’s amazing to see something close to 2000 years old on the way to work!  The people in this area really seemed to like dogs and I saw multiple Siberian Huskies.  Rejoining the group, I got treated to some wine (all Hungarian vintages) tasting in a nice wine cellar. We learned an expression for toasting (but not for beer!): “egészségedre”, which is used for “Cheers” and “Bless You” after a sneeze. The bottles we all shared included: 2023 Reisling (white, Pecs), 2023 Zenit (white, Pecs, developed by the University) and 2022 Bikaver (AKA “Bulls Blood”, a blend of Blauberger, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Pecs). All of these were great! Back on the bus (1140), we retraced our route back to Mohacs (arrived at 1230). Within 30 minutes, our ship was underway again. The heat was pretty unbearable so I spent the “cruising afternoon” with lots of conversation, a light lunch, some reading and sightseeing from the windows. In the evening, we had another Port Brief, a wonderful dinner (the four courses of unique, delicious and small portions aren’t getting boring!), paired with some more local wine. Next, I headed to the Sun Deck for some exercise.  As usual, I was mostly alone (crew members only) but I enjoyed the cooler temps and river breezes. Along the shore, families and friends camped near pretty beaches and surrounded by woods. We’ve had days of National Park or fishing village scenery but that mostly ends tomorrow.  Finished with my stroll at at 2130), I spent time reading in bed and finally went to sleep at 2300.  We will reach Budapest, the “Queen City of the Danube” before sunrise!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 9

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 4! After more than a week touring predominantly Orthodox Christian countries, our ship docked in the riverside town of Vukovar, Croatia this morning (0530) and I (re)entered the world of Roman Catholicism. This was significant because we’d arrived in a Holy Day of Obligation (Solemnity of Mary’s Assumption into Heaven), which was also a national holiday in this part of the world.  I woke up at 0630 and was surprised to learn that our Cruise Director had moved our excursion, to Vukovar and Osijek (“Ossyek”), to a 0815 departure.  With temps again projected to top 100 F, that was fine with me but it did compress my normal, leisurely routine of breakfast and reading. As I was getting my pass to go ashore, I realized I'd forgotten my wallet - fortunately, I had time to retrieve it before everyone else had I left the ship.  To get on land, we passed through another cruise ship (from Switzerland) that was moored inside of Amadeus Riva.  Outside, we found our buses waiting! As we drove west from the Danube, our local guide, Josef, told us tales of the 1990s Balkan Wars and described the many tragedies that occurred when Serbia (located across the river) tried to prevent Croatia’s independence. Farther out into the countryside, we learned about the many nearby farming communities in the region of the country known as Slavonia. Passing through Osijek, we crossed the Drava River and made our way to a small hamlet called Kopacevo. The purpose of this detour was to do a little agritourusm - arriving at a little farm, we met a man named Nino, who the locals call “The Fisherman”. His fish tales, local anecdotes and family-made products were wonderful. We learned that the local people (of the Baranya region) are closely connected culturally with neighbors across the border in Hungary and often gather in Mohacs on Mardi Gras (Busojaras Carnival) to celebrate an ancient tradition (of wearing “Bigfoot-like” costumes made of sheepskins and sporting terrible masks) of trying to frighten the winter away. I sampled almost all of the offerings (three kinds of Slivovitz/plum-brandy/honey-wine, three kinds of wine and three kinds of kolaches) and, needless to say, was feeling quite good when the visit was over. We returned to Osijek and took a walking tour of a fortress and “old town” building complex. Josef explained many details about education, taxes, local activities and Croatia’s recent entry into the Eurozone. At one point, the already shortened (due to heat) tour deliberately passed a point of interest (“Watergate” of the fortress) and I took my own detour to see the moats, walls and the river. Even after this, I easily caught up to the slow moving group. Once back on the buses, we returned to Vukovar and learned about the nearly 90% devastation within the town that took place in the early 1990s. A visible example of the destruction was the Water Tower (it was covered with bullet holes) and we got to take photos of it. Once at the pier again, I realized I had 45 minutes before “All Aboard” and used that time to explore sights near the pier. I had enough time to sample a local beer at one of the only businesses open on the holiday. Back onboard the ship (I was the last one to arrive), I got a light lunch (custom made pasta bar) and then spent the afternoon watching the coastline of the river (Serbia to the east and Croatia to the west). There were so many types of birds (our tour directors said there were hundreds of species)! There were also many fishermen, jet skiers, swimmers and tiny towns. At 1530, the ND Alumni Club (Father Pat) hosted a Mass and this was followed by an ice cream social. More cruising along the Danube kept my interest even during another one of the enrichment lectures (although I did catch the tail end of Father Pat's lecture on “The Balkans During WWI”). The Port Brief was followed by another wonderful dinner (salad, dumplings, grilled cod and dessert) paired with yet more delicious wine. During this time, I met passengers from Ol’ Miss & ASU but was turned off by hearing much more complaining (from others) and encountering assorted rudeness (e.g., “I don’t want two conversations” after I asked a follow up about the person’s career).  For this reason, and because I realized I hadn’t walked nearly as much as I wanted, I went topside after the meal (2000).  For nearly an hour, I walked in the present breeze and moonlight of the evening - I had the whole Sun Deck to myself!  After we docked in the small town of Mohacs, Hungary (2200), I went up to the entryway to look for one of the Tour Directors, Alan from Galway, who’d suggested I might go ashore.  He was there and we got clearance from the crew to leave (after I caught the tail end of the music/dance in the Promenade Lounge).  Alan had gotten directions to a pub from one of the crew and we walked over there.  Unfortunately, the combination of the sleepy village and the Catholic Holy Day meant the entire place was deserted.  Disappointed, we returned to the ship and, after getting some tea, I went to bed an hour later (2230).  We'll be exploring Hungary in the morning!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 8

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 3! During the night, the ship proceeded upriver to where the Sava meets the Danube. From there, the room the Sava to Belgrade - we were docked by 0500. I was awake about an hour later and immediately went on deck to take photos of the city skyline. We had our typical (filling) breakfast and an opportunity for a history lecture (“Modern Serbia”) but I skipped the latter event. At 0915, though, I departed the ship so I could go on my excursion: a visit to the Tesla Museum! To put my choice in perspective, there were 60 people on the main tour (“Belgrade City Highlights”) and only 10 on mine (the other 10 did a “Foodie” tour). Our bus drove south from the pier and we got some color commentary about several important city sights: Republic Square and the City Assembly building. We arrived at the museum for our 1000 tour and were treated to a historical video about Tesla’s life, practical demonstrations of his experiments and inventions and exhibits on his personal life. The museum was small but our guide made up for that with enthusiasm. Our next stop was supposed to be at Kalemegdan Fortress Park but I’d noticed that the museum was close to one of the most impressive landmarks of the entire city (Temple of St. Sava). I’d previously gotten permission (from the Cruise Director and my tour guide) to leave the group and walk the four blocks to the landmark. I found it easily and was blown away by the amazing frescos, gilded mosaics and towering architecture. After visiting the unbeatable church, I started walking north (on Kralja Milana and Knez Mihailova) towards the fortress. On a normal day, this would have been stroll for me but the sunny day had yielded 100+ degree temps again. I stuck to shady areas as much as possible and made a few stops (to change money and get a drink from a newspaper stand). By the time I reached the “Pedestrian Zone” (shopping area), I was hot and sweaty. Fortunately, though, I soon encountered my tour guide and original group. This allowed me to walk through the fortress with them. It was hot and I became lethargic but enjoyed the guide’s narrative. Afterwards, we returned to the shop for a light lunch (1300) that recharged me a bit. Still, I needed a shower and nap to reach equilibrium… As a result, I missed another few minor events. I was able to join a presentation of traditional Serbian dancing and music - that was good. At 1800, the ship resumed its upriver journey, retracing its route on the Sava and then turning west on the Danube. I spent time watching Amadeus Riva getting underway (very efficient) and observed the fortress from several good river vantage points (the only other people on deck were crew members). I joined a lecture on the Baroque Period (in progress) and stayed for the Port Brief at 1900. Dinner was full of good options: I had salad, gnocchi, eggplant parmigiana and white chocolate mousse, accompanied by a Cab Sav from France. Good conversation and service! Before bed, I went on deck again and found myself in a pitch black part of the river. After some additional steps, I returned to my cabin and spent the rest of the evening reading, blogging and Duolingo exercises.  Bedtime was at 2200.  By morning, we’ll be in Croatia!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 7

MS Amadeus Riva: Day 2! Throughout the night, we cruised upriver on the Danube (and went west into a new time zone). I woke up during the night two times and I later learned that this must have been disturbances related to clearing some locks along river.  Waking up at the new 0530, I realized that I had a cold coming on (dang).  Despite this, I really wanted to see some of the interesting things going on along the shore line; I got ready quickly and went for a walk on the Sun Deck (0630), watching landmarks on both left (Serbia) and right (Romania).  I saw lots of fisherman, forest fires, birds, etc.  At 0715, I went to the breakfast buffet in the restaurant (initially sat at in “wrong/closed” area).  After I was seated, I found the food to be really really good and stayed in the dining area until 0800.  About 90 minutes later, our ship reached a major hydroelectric dam called “Iron Gate II”. This imposing structure stretches across the river between Serbia end Romania and provides about 20% of each country’s electrical power. Just before beginning the 1.5 hour transit, our Cruise Director (Milos) pointed out major landmarks and provided historical and cultural information about the region. As usual, I geeked out on the “how does it work?” RE: lock process (two levels, +100 feet of water level change).  There was a monument to Tito on the Serbian side (which we approached most closely) and I suddenly realized that this dam was same landmark I'd seen from the air during my flight from Bucharest to Vienna.  The sun was shining during the transit and the temps had soared to 100 F by the time we exited the lock but I was able to take a break from the heat when I attended a traditional “Balkan Buffet” for my lunch. Also tried a tasty Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) from Germany. After that (1350), I went back up to the Sun Deck so I could monitor our progress through the Kazan Gorge, the narrowest part of the Danube. Milos continued to provide excellent color commentary - but only to the Sun and Promenade Decks. In other words, I’m glad I didn’t miss the “tour.” We passed a monument carved while Trajan was Roman Emperor (had to be moved when dam was built). Not far up the river, we reached the famous carving of Decebalus (Trajan’s Dacian opponent during the struggle for the Balkans). In the same area, I enjoyed seeing some pretty churches, young kids on lake excursions and (later) some spectacular castles. Once the excitement was over, I returned to my room (1530) to wait for the next event (lecture about Balkan history given by one of the Smithsonian Journey’s group leaders). Falling asleep instead (time zone & pace made resting irresistible). At 1730, I managed to wake up on time to be able to attend a Notre Dame Alumni Cocktail Party. This event was quite nice and Milos gave even more context. One funny thing, though, was that everyone at out party had become a “Balkan Expert” after the lecture I missed - the conversation quickly changed to issues that have not been solvable for over 1000 years... Meanwhile, looked out the window as the beautiful river flowed by our ship. At 1900, we received a Port Brief for our visit to Belgrade, Serbia in the morning. I met with a few of the tour directors (Vessie and Milos) afterwards to plan my “free time” after the formal tours. One really nice thing was that I was one of only eight people (our of 80) to do the excursion I chose. Before dinner, I watched the sun set (from the Sun Deck) beyond the distant Romanian mountains. Our evening meal (and accompanying wine, a white variant of the same wine as at lunch), which began at 2000, was excellent. My appetite was lagging, however, and mostly just sampled each dish (Chili Con Carne, Mushroom Risotto and Vanilla Crème Brûlée).  Despite the limited food intake, I still felt very full.  Fortunately, I logged a lot steps during my rounds of the ship so believe I’m winning (or, at least managing) the battle of calories.  My cold was making feel more tired than normal but I was unable to eat in silence because I was sitting near Kathy, a chatty anesthesiologist.  She was nice but I was glad to leave the dining area (2100)...  My day concluded, I went to my room and blogged until bed time (2230).  Tomorrow, we have our first port visit!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 6

Amadeus Riva: Day 1!  After an interesting trip so far, the main event of this whole journey was scheduled to take place in the afternoon.  Despite the looming excitement, I slept until 0630!  After getting out of bed, I got packed, read and got ready.  By 0745, I had put my bags in the hall to be picked up by the porters and proceeded to the AHI Dining Room for another nice breakfast (this time, alone).  With cooler weather in the early hours, I decided to take another stroll in Sofia before our bus left the city.  At 0815, I left the hotel and went for a walk nearby.  First, I visited Ste. Nedelya and recorded some of the chanting of Mass).  The building itself was quite pretty inside and, when I continued walking away from it, I found several little chapels scattered around among the nearby blocks.  I had time to explore the Serdica ruins, which were mostly in the area where the subway station was located and under the roads.  Highlight: I found a mini-church apse preserved there.  Next, I checked out the area near the Mineral Springs.  Overall, I felt good to be able to revisit some pretty spots and also find several quiet corners and courtyards. Each of these places was within two blocks of my hotel so we definitely got prime digs. There is no doubt that Sofia is a really nice city but, after the last couple of days, I felt ready to head to the next stop on the tour - onward!  Returning to the hotel (0900), I confirmed my bags (had to tell our hosts so they could tag them as ready for loading) in the lobby.  After that, I spent about 45 minutes reading, doing Duolingo and blogging.  At 0950, I headed downstairs to join Group #1 for our bus ride to Vidin.  Happily, we had beautiful weather again (sunny and cooler in the AM) as we departed the Sofia Balkan Palace (1015) and proceeded north. Our bus (#1 of 3) was being driven by Vladimir, joined our host (Nani) and local guide (Maggie). Along the way, we got lots of details about history, culture, agriculture and cuisine. After leaving the city limits (on Route 81), farm fields gave way to the foothills of the Vrachanski Balkan Mountains. Temps soon started to soar… At 1110, we stopped at Hotel Balach, a “rest area” of sorts for about 30 minutes. Most people bought drinks there but I just explored - there was an inviting pool in back of the hotel and I wished I could submerge myself in it! By 1145, we were on our way again. The bus's AC was not able to keep up with the heat and the passenger complaints began… Meanwhile, we climbed higher (with lots of dramatic switchbacks) into the mountains. Maggie gave more color commentary but I spent more time looking at the views than listening. After summiting the pass, we had a similar drive (more switchbacks) back down into the Danube Valley. There were times when our bus and big trucks seemed destined to collide. In the end, we passed through safely. During this time, we encountered three other buses that were apparently coming from the ship in Vidin - I guess the logistics of this cruise scheme involves a complex series of movements so the ship and hotel are never empty… Our next stop was in the town of Montana (founded by the Romans) - we arrived at our restaurant (Hotel Jitomer) at 1315. Being the first bus meant being first in line for food - nice! The light meal was buffet style, with meats, cheeses, veggies and a tasty soup. We were allowed to choose our drink and I tried a Bulgarian white wine. During this meal, I sat at the table with the rest of my Bus #1 comrades and got to know some of the Iowa State and Wash-U folks. Afterwards, I went outside in the sweltering heat and walked for a bit in a nearly plaza. There was an inviting fountain there and I wished I could enter it. By 1415, I was on the bus in time (along with everyone else) but then our bus got blocked in by the other two. Vladimir had to work hard to find a way out. Eventually, we were on our way north towards Vidin. The scenery got much flatter after leaving Montana and the sun had switched sides in the meantime. As a result, I closed the curtain and read one of my books. At about 1545, we started to get views of the Danube River (right side of the bus). Entering town, however, we lost sight of our target as Vladimir skillfully navigated a series of streets with low hanging trees, one way roads and narrow passage ways until we arrived at the Bada Vida Fortress (1600). The present castle, located about the Danube in a strategic location, was built on a Celt/Thracian foundation, augmented by Roman engineering, improved by the Byzantines and subsumed by the Turks. This meant that the architecture was very interesting and our group (still led by Maggie) navigated slippery steps and steep stone walkways to reach a high overlook of the Danube and surrounding countryside (including the town of Calafat on the Romanian side). The temps were unbearably hot (approaching 100 degrees) so my enthusiasm for being outside started to wane. While at the fortress, I saw a group of kayakers who had finished their paddling “regatta” for the day and were setting up camp - wished I was with them… Instead, we reboarded the bus and drove to nearby St. Panteylemon (located next to St. Nikolai), an example of 17th Century church building and beautiful frescos. Maggie gave us much more context on Bulgarian and Orthodox Christian life under the Ottomans. We also learned about Vidin’s mosque and synagogues - even though these are religious minorities in the area, the government has supported renovations of their aging buildings.  Also worth noting: Vidin used to have a population of 80K residents but now only has 30K - there were a LOT of deserted buildings.  Once we’d returned to the bus for the last time, Vladimir drove us back through town until we reached the port (1715). Tied up along the pier was my new home away from home for the next nine days: MS Amadeus Riva!  Transferring from the bus to the ship this afternoon was a snap and I was in my room by about 1730. We had a mandatory brief that was scheduled within the hour but I managed to squeeze in some time for photos of the HUGE riverboat - from the pier and onboard - before I had to attend. The ship is new (2023) and had most of the same amenities as the Viking cruise ship I used in February. But the capacity was far smaller (~150) and we only had around 80 passengers for this cruise. During our safety briefing and “Port Brief” for the next day, we were treated to complimentary drinks and I grabbed one of the only beers, a Bitburger (which I know well). By 1900, I was able to get away for a shower and to unpack but then attended a spectacular “Welcome Aboard” dinner with four delicious courses (we could choose from a list of options). I sat with some folks from the ND group (Ron and Sandy, along with a few others) but I liked the fact that there weren’t assigned seats. The food was very good and I paired it with a nice red wine (Weinbau Mörwald Classic Blauer Zweigelt). We wrapped up at 2100 and I relaxed in my room (blogging, read the Daily Program for the next day and read more of my book) until we got underway an hour later.  Since my room was located near the waterline, I could clearly hear the river waves splashing near by window after we got underway.  With these smooth sounds, I ended up going to bed the earliest I had on the entire trip (2300).  Now sailing upstream on the “Beautiful Blue Danube!”

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 5

Today was my first full day with the 80+ members (and staff) in our AHI Travel group. I woke up at about 0615 and did some reading and Duolingo.  After that, I got ready, packing a day-bag for our busy schedule before leaving my hotel room (0730). I’d noticed late last night that there was a Mass for the other members of the ND Alumni Club about 30 minutes later so hurried to breakfast.  Hoping to learn more about my hotel departure alternatives, I used the stairway and came out into a courtyard that was actually located below my room.  What a wonderful surprise - the courtyard contained an old church!  I would have stayed to examine it further but was short on time.  Instead, I entered our group’s private eating area and got some good food from the buffet.  I saw Dennis again but ended up eating with Ron (ND grad) and his wife.  At 0800, the Notre Dame group moved to the larger conference room and Father Pat (our "own" ND priest!) said Mass for us.  There were other people there from the other schools but it was mostly just the 10 in our alumni group.  We were finished at about 0845 and I spent some time visiting with passengers I hadn't met.  At 0900, I attended an Enrichment lecture about the “Bulgarian Revival” (provided by a local Bulgarian Historian, Maggie).  It was quite interesting and time sped by.  At 1015, the entire tour group assembled and we departed (in three groups) on a walking tour of Sofia. My group (with most of the ND folks) had Maggie as our guide and wandered around the sights near our hotel and points to the east (most locations between Bul. Knyaz Aleksandar Dondukov and Bul. Tsar Osvoboditel). Using some swanky headphones, our guide showed us the Roman ruins of Serdika (located right in front of our hotel), tiny St. Petka, the St. Sofia statue and other government buildings in that same area. We stopped at a very old Orthodox Church, called the St. George Rotunda (4th Century), that I’d noticed in the square below my hotel room and went inside while Mass was being celebrated. The whole service was being chanted - this style of worship was very beautiful and (to me) unique. Crossing the courtyard, we exited close to where the Presidential Palace Guard was starting to change (goose steps and all). Crossing the street, we learned about the Cyrillic alphabet and Bulgarian language. This was the area of a historic building that now houses the National Archeology Museum - the artifacts outside made me really want to go inside but we continued walking. By now, the temps had climbed into the 90s so shade was premium. Maggie told us a LOT about everything we passed and we were soon the last group on the tour. But it was all interesting - she told us her country’s history with such passion (including some genuine tears)! Next, we walked through the “Yellow Brick” zone, an area of commerce and government with distinctively colored pavement (no paint required, due to ceramic properties). We passed through the City (AKA “Boris”) Garden, saw the National Assembly of Bulgaria, visited Alexander Battenburg Square, marveled at the onion rooftops of the Russian Orthodox Church of Saint Nikolai (that contained the relics of a recently canonized local Saint Serafim) and passed some nearby embassies. Suddenly, we turned a corner and were treated to amazing views of the Aleksander Nevski Cathedral. It wasn’t an old building but was very pleasing to the eye. We were allowed to go inside this building and, after I paid a small “photo permit”, I took lots of photos of the interesting interior. Departing from there, we visited the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, saw the Synod Church and made our way to another old church (current version from 6th Century) in the city: the Basilica of Saint Sofia (“Holy Wisdom”). We learned that the Council of Serdica (c. AD 350) was held here and helped to formalize the Christian Creed. During the delays between moving ("shade breaks"), I met two solo ladies (Angela and Karen) who seemed restless to escape the group.  However, they soon changed their mind and mentioned going back to the hotel.  Just then (1250), the tour ended and we were given freedom to explore on our own. I took advantage of this opportunity to go inside the church, where another chanting Mass was being said (several baptisms). Photos were not permitted in the sanctuary but I found an archaeological site below the church itself that had a Necropolis that dated from about AD 200. I paid to go down into this area and was impressed by about eight levels of streets, walls, burials, temples and several church foundations. So amazing! By this point, I was hungry and started looking for food. Before I could get away, though, I was confronted my an older gentleman who wanted to talk to me about something. I presumed he was a panhandler but was not prepared for his persistence in trying different languages to convince me of his need.  In the end, he settled on Italian (!), which I barely know, and he confirmed my suspicions...  After walking across the square in front of Alexander Nevski Cathedral, I found a quiet restaurant nearby called “Victoria” that had some nice shade and got a table there. During my meal (food arrived by 1350), I enjoyed some Stolichno Bock beer and something that (in English) was called “Homemade Meatballs” (“pardon” peppers, rustic chutney, sheep cheese) with fries/chips. I watched some of the Olympics (cycling events) while I was there and finally stopped sweating. Next, I walked back to Aleksander Nevski Cathedral (got great views of Vitosha Mountain) and entered the Crypt so I could see an Icon display they had. It was interesting and I found some other ND folks there. Walking east from the church, I took photos of a monument to Vasil Levski, a hero of the 1878 liberation of Bulgaria. Backtracking towards the hotel, I made stops at/inside/near: Saint Nikolai; the Sofia Mineral Baths building (and a nearby mineral artisan fountains); the Banya Bashi Mosque; Tsentraini (Market) Hall; Sofia Synagogue and Catholic Cathedral of Saint Joseph. All these building of four different faiths so close together! At the latter house of worship, a parishioner told me about four miracles that took place on the site before the (re)building of the latest church. By this point (1600), I was tired and sweaty so headed back to the hotel for a break.  Somehow, I managed to connect with Erin on the phone! At 1800, I donned my ND polo short and joined a “Welcome Reception” for all members of the group.  I finally met everyone else from ND (Father Pat, Ron & Sandy, Jim & Susan, Bob & Pat, Steve & Donna) - I’m the “baby”, by far, of the ND group (most older than my dad)!  One more hour later, all 80+ passengers assembled to enjoy a delicious dinner of assorted Bulgarian salads, some grilled chicken Trakia and some mascarpone yogurt mousse. Wine (including a good Bulgarian Merlot) and beer flowed freely during the roughly three hours I was with the nine other ND Alumni, folks from several other colleges (Iowa State, William and Mary, Washington-STL, Emory, Minnesota, Mississippi, etc.) and Smithsonian Journeys. Our travel hosts (Nani, Vessy and Alan) talked to us a lot about the upcoming journey (a sort of travel orientation session).  Bonus: some Bulgarian Folk Dancers (with their musicians) treated us to some of their special celebratory dancing! Note for my daughters: they grabbed people from the crowd to dance with them but I didn’t join this time. By the time the festivities ended (2100), I felt like I’d really gotten to know about 25% of the other tour group members. This percentage will definitely increase during our excursion travel tomorrow.  On the way to my room, I stopped at the hotel front desk and convinced the clerk to give me some small Bulgarian coins.  In my room, I did some blogging and reading until going to bed at 2330.  After seeing almost everything of interest mentioned in my guidebook, my overall impression is that Sofia is a very interesting city, full of lots of memorable landmarks, friendly people, good exchange rates and a bewildering language/alphabet. Very glad I visited this unique place!

Danube Cruise Trip - Day 4

This morning marked the end of pure “Jim Time” and I started my journey to rendezvous with the other members of the Tour Group. I was awake at 0600 and spent most of the early morning reading, doing Duolingo and packing.  Eileen and I were able to text a bit - that was nice. I went to breakfast in hotel restaurant at 0810 (another good buffet).  Done at about 0855, I then went for a walk in my Bucharest neighborhood.  There was some shade (trees and tall buildings) and this kept temps cool.  However, it was already hot in the sun.  I passed by an Orthodox Church that appeared to be conducting services - there were some ominous gentlemen at the door that gave me enough pause to avoid trying to enter...  Back in my room by 0930, I spent an hour wrapping up my stay and checking out of the hotel.  Catalin picked me up at 1030 and we drove to the airport (pretty close to the same route as last night).  We had an interesting French and Romanian flag (they kind of look the same) discussion on the way.  We arrived at airport by 1100 and I did my best to thank Catalin for his excellent driving.  Before the trip began, I had a choice: accept route planning from the Tour Company (transfers included) or make up my own air itinerary to reach my hotel in Bulgaria. I chose the former and this involved two flights (one to Vienna and the other to Sofia).  So, my first order of business in the terminal was to locate the check-in counter for Austrian Airlines.  It wasn't easy...  I was finally able to find a self check kiosk to print boarding passes but then had to wait in a huge line for the bag drop.  This was due to the fact that Austrian shared desks with Lufthansa and Swiss Air - ugh...  I ultimately got through the line by 1200 (whew; 15 minutes to spare).  The desk agent had tried to convince me to check my bag but I successfully declined.  Fortunately, security checks were no issue.  I spent some time before boarding walking through the crowded "OTP" terminal.  I noticed they had no WiFi, potable water or available seating - almost 180 out from my Amsterdam experience.  I eventually found a spot on a window sill and waited until boarding began (1250).  At that point, it was a free for all throughout the boarding process (no zones called).  Also, I couldn't tell - did I need my passport or not?  Once I got aboard (A320 window seat), I was pleased to see a petite woman sitting in the middle seat - this appeared to bode well for elbow room.  Unfortunately, my neighbor changed seats with a larger guy and all the extra room was immediately gone.  Needless to say, I was relieved that it was a shorter flight...  We were all in our seats well in advance to the scheduled takeoff but we still departed 30 minutes late (mostly because there were two empty seats that the gate attendants wanted to fill) - SMH.  At least we had Strauss playing in the background!  It was strange to transition from the rather musical Romanian to the harsher Deutsch. But the crew members were as friendly as any Central Europeans I’ve met. One of the Flight Attendants had a Nina Blackwood voice (I couldn’t get that reference out of my head).  During the flight, we had free internet (for messages only) but there were no charging ports so I turned off my phone.  During the drink service I realized that everything cost money - I got a special bag of (Austrian?) Haribo gummies.  While we were airborne, I read some more of my travel book (Bulgaria and Sofia stuff).  We had a Danube overflight for the first 30 minutes - I took photo and later identified the section of the river (bridge west of Iron Gate).  We must have flown due west after that because I noticed a giant lake to the north I think it was Lake Balaton in Hungary.  If I'm correct, we later turned north.  We were given Austrian chocolate just before arrival.  I saw lots of windmills in the fields of Austria during our approach to Vienna.  Also saw second lake closer to the city.  Another bonus: Bratislava was visible in the distance.  We landed at 1410L (one hour time change).  After parking, we got an Austrian passport check on way off of aircraft.  Since we landed late, I spent only about 30 minutes in the terminal.  In this short period, though, I experienced long lines for the bathroom, good internet and plentiful USB power outlets.  When boarding for my next flight (Embraer E95) began (1500), it was again a free for all (“all passengers may board”).  This ended up being much more critical than previously because we had to get on a bus that took us far out onto the ramp.  Even after the bus parked, there was no one to point anyone towards one of the jetways.  As a result, people randomly chose doors and there was opposing traffic in the cabin.  Fortunately, I was in an early group and found (limited) room for my carryon.  Everyone was pretty efficient in the end and we took off almost on time (1530L).  During the climb out, I got a nice view (although we immediately turned and it was short) of the nearby Danube and Vienna city skyline.  The snapshot view of the city, the wide river and hills to the northwest - all in the late afternoon sunlight - is imprinted in my mind. Wow!  There was another time change again enroute.  During the drink service, I ordered an early dinner (chicken paprika wrap) and an Austrian beer (paid in Euros).  Watching the Danube overflight again - this time, I had the map on my phone and realized (due to the visibility and distinctive landmarks on the Danube and Sava rivers) that we were overflying Belgrade.  After that, I noticed a marked increase in the rugged terrain (much different from Walachia).  The descent was uneventful and we landed in Sofia, Bulgaria at 1755L (early).  I was near the front of the plane but took my time heading to baggage claim.  The airport had good WiFi but seemed pretty empty.  Since I was awaiting a 2000 bus from the AHI Travel team and didn’t see the point of hurrying, I got some more steps and took care of texts with the kids).  However, when I finally got my bag and left the arrival area (1830), I encountered a representative of AHI who seemed frantic about my "lateness".  At first, I took this as a sign that I wouldn’t have to wait the full time.  But it was a bait and switch and they took the entire time to wait on other people and flights.  Before the trip, I’d thought about taking taxi instead of waiting - in hindsight, that would have been better...  Meanwhile, I met an older gentleman (widower from Connecticut) named Dennis who I had been on the same Austrian flight I took.  We ended up talking the time away.  Eventually (2000), we had nearly 20 people from our tour assembled and were escorted to a waiting bus.  The drive to our hotel in downtown Sofia took about 25 minutes and our local guide (Ivan) pointed out sights along the way.  There were so many pretty buildings!  I met another solo traveler (Robert from Texas).  We were dropped off in from of the Sofia Balkan Palace Hotel and walked to our own special hospitality area in the back of the lobby (our bags were delivered to our rooms).  We were met by our tour coordinators (Nani, Vessy and Alan) and received a short orientation.  With our room keys, we also got a three day itinerary.  The bulk of the group seems to be Silent and Boomer Generations so this may be a lot less mobile and active than I’d hoped. But everyone - including the local guides and travel hosts - was extremely nice.  On the way to my room, I skimmed the events for the following day and noticed that I needed to get up early for breakfast, Mass (with ND group) and .  Everyone else headed to their rooms to go to bed early. As you might have guessed, I only stopped at the room to drop my stuff before heading out to explore (2100). The hotel is located right across the street from the ruins of the Thracian/Roman settlement of Serdica, a huge mosque, a statue of Saint Sofia and a pretty church called the Cathedral of Saint Nedelya. All of these things were well lit for the evening and very pretty. I wandered down Bul. Vitosha, a closed street with pubs and restaurants. The weather was pleasant and the area was full of young people. I stopped for a few (half) pints of Bulgarian beer and dessert of Pavlova (mint, lemon, strawberry, blueberry) at a place called the Social Cafe Bar & Kitchen - everything was good. There was much less English being spoken and I have had no exposure to Bulgarian - but some expressions, words and gestures are universal. Cyrillic characters and words are also going to be a unique challenge - not since my days visiting Japan have words been so tough to decipher. I noticed a lot of people (even young ones) were smoking in nearly every place I visited.  Wrapped up my evening excursion at about 2145 and headed back to the room to get ready for a full day of food, lectures, Mass (with the Notre Dame priest who is with us), a lecture about Sofia, a city walking tour and Welcome Reception/Dinner. Before going to bed (2330), I texted with Erin and worked on my travel blog.  Excited about my cruise itinerary - so much new stuff to see/do!