Southeast Asia Trip - Day 19

Sadly, today was my final full day of Southeast Asia Adventures.  Hoping to stay ahead of the busy itinerary we had ahead of us, I woke up (with alarm) at 0515 and did some reading, puzzles and Duolingo.  After that, I finished packing, put my bag outside my Park Hyatt Siem Reap room (0545) and got myself ready.  Downstairs, I checked out with the Front Desk (no bill) and went to breakfast (French Toast, pancakes, bacon, beans, noodles) at hotel restaurant (0600).  Next, I completed my bag check and boarded the motor coach (0620).  Our group departed the hotel for the last time at 0630.  Despite the early hour, there were still plenty of busy streets.  On the way to the airport, we passed the Royal Independence Gardens and a Royal Residence.  We also saw several busy markets.  The weather started cloudy (it had rained overnight) but was clearing - the morning air was actually kind of pleasant.  Reth pointed out several thatched roof buildings, farmers riding and walking to work, cows everywhere, mist on the mountainsides.  On my own, I was fascinated by the "plow motors" being used to build makeshift Tuk Tuks...  We made our way to the Siem Reap Airport (arrived at 0730) and joined a huge line at the Thai Airways check in counter.  As usual (due to the pushy Boomers), I was at the end of all the Viking group.  As I had on the way to Cambodia, I checked one bag for my Thailand leg.  After passing through Immigration (clear by 0835), I ended up waiting in the gate area until about 0930.  Once onboard the aircraft, I found I was seated in an area with two exit rows.  While the flight attendants briefed us for actions in an emergency, it became clear that there might have been five languages in play among the many other people near me.  I spent part of the flight hoping we didn't actually have to communicate.  Also, the flight attendants kept having to constantly tell some passengers to move to their assigned seats.  Thai Airways 589 was quite a crowded aircraft so I was pleased when they began taxiing (0955) and almost immediately got clearance for takeoff (1000).  As we'd seen on the first day of my Viking Venus Extension, the Thai Airways crew was able to serve an inflight meal (ham & cheese sandwich on soft bun, young coconut custard bun, tea) within about 30 minutes - wow!  I did some reading enroute and was almost surprised when we landed at Suvarnabhumi Airport (Bangkok) by 1045.  Having done a Viking Post Cruise Extension before, I knew this last day could end up being a lot of “hurry up and wait.”  Fortunately, though, knew how to avoid this scenario and started immediately after I was allowed to deplane.  With strict entry rules (“you cut the line - end of the line for you!”), I walked as fast as I could to enter the Immigration queue.  I was helped my one of the staff nearby, who diverted me to a "special needs" (old, wheelchair, etc.) line.  Along the way, I watched how the Thai authorities behaved differences differently when speaking with Anglo and SE Asian people at the checkpoint.  Needless to say, I was very pleased to have made it through all the processes by 1115.  Even better, i quickly got my checked bag and found the Viking Reps.  Since I was first to arrive (and they remembered me from the ticket/passport SNAFU on November 2), I sweet talked my way into leaving for the hotel without waiting for everyone one else.  After outmaneuvering the “handlers” from the cruise line, I walked to the hotel through a series of tunnels and was at the Hyatt Regency hotel at 1135.  No one else was there, obviously, so I got the undivided attention from the on-site Viking rep, who gave me maps for the local train system.  At the same time, I retrieved my stored bag and was in my room by 1200.  Before departing for a Bangkok adventure, I spent time organizing my belongings (getting ready for EVA Air bag weight limitations).  In the end, I felt pretty good about my handling of the "Post Cruise Extension Procedures" - it took a bit of extra walking and (if I’m honest) stubborn behavior but I made it off the aircraft from Cambodia, checked into my (airport) hotel and was headed (by train) into downtown Bangkok before the rest of my group had even left the Terminal.  I finally departed hotel at 1300 and, after entering the tunnel complex again, found the Airport Train station ticket machine.  Unfortunately, I then discovered that it took Thai Baht cash only.  Even worse, when I tried to change money (in the tunnel between hotel and airport), they asked for my passport, which I'd left in my room.  In the next 30 minutes, I walked back and forth (encountering people from the Siem Reap Bus 1 group on the way) and finally was able to change $20.  Back at the train ticket machine, I managed to get a little black token (for 35 Baht) but then couldn’t figure out how to use it - there were no slots for the token.  Wonderfully, a nice Thai lady told me that there was an RFID chip in it and it could be tapped on the e-scanner for the fancy entry gate.  As a result of this assistance, I managed to reach the platform just as a train arrived.  However, there was then a five minute delay while a full security check was conducted (everyone onboard had to get off the train and everyone else had to wait to get on).  We finally started rolling by 1345!  I was on an elevated train and used it to reach the Makkasan Station (which the Viking Rep had told me was the place to get off).  I next had to walk (outside) to the Phetchaburi Subway Station (located next to Mormon Temple) and use cash for another token (30 Baht).  Since the temps were already in the 80s and it was very humid (as usual), I was sweating by the time I started down into the Bangkok Subway system and boarded Train 1. This train took me to Sanam Chai Station (arrived at 1445), which is located right below the most beautiful Buddhist temple I’ve ever seen: Wat Pho.  I'd thought it was closed due to the death of the King's mother but, when I'd wandered around for a little while, I found a way into the complex (after buying a ticket for 300 Baht).  The place was full of amazing buildings, including the four main monumental towers that loomed overhead., Overall, it was a maze of spectacular buildings.  Unlike the places I'd visited in Cambodia and Vietnam, almost everything was original and in the place where past kings had placed them.  It's amazing what a lack of looting will do for the ambiance...  Along the way, I found a HUGE reclining Buddha and encountered saw other Viking Venus passengers.  All I can say after visiting is that the Thai people know how to put on a show - the architecture and artwork were stunning!  Had I stopped there, the “Jim Excursion” would have been enough. Afterwards, though, I walked towards the river (I'd considering crossing it by boat).  Feeling hungry, I stopped for drink and early dinner at Amarosa (Arun Residence by the River), which was a riverfront residence with multiple floors, each with a view of Wat Arun.  At 1550, I ordered Thai fettuccini with Italian sausage (very rich) and two Singha beers.  While there, I watched boats of all kinds in the river.  I got some "sticker shock" when the bill for my meal arrived - it cost 955 Baht (around $30 but the service fee comprised almost $10).  As a consolation prize, I got a photo from the top of the building and then departed (1645).  I'd seen ice cream at “Before Sunset” (downstairs in the same building) so got some of that about five minutes later.  Next, I walked down lots of alleyways and stopped at several piers for views of the river.  I got to see some beautiful images of the sun setting behind Wat Arun (on the other side of the Chao Phraya River).  During this time, I was still considering getting on a boat but never did use one.  Instead, I wandered endlessly through a humungous Flower Market I found.  Along the way, I found myself navigating with a compass and following back roads. In a few places, I was surrounded by school kids in uniform.  Fortunately (for later actions), I noticed that there were MANY entrances to Sanam Chai subway station, the one I needed to retrace my steps on the train.  Instead of entering, though, I walked towards Grand Palace.  I was already tired, hot (80s) and sweaty so was relieved to find a city park that (somehow) had some cool breezes.  For a little while, I watched lots of local citizens doing sports and socializing in this pleasant slice of nature surrounded by the urban sprawl.  By that point, I knew it was time to go back to the hotel.  On the way to the Subway entrance, I noticed the many sparkling jewels on buildings within the Grand Palace complex - wow!  At the Panam Chai Station (1755), I used my Visa to access the subway (instead of token/cash) and boarded Train 2.  We didn't depart immediately and more people joined me - the car got completely packed by the time we reached Phetchaburi Subway Station.  To get out, I had to squeeze by dozens of young people who were glued to their mobile phones.  Somehow, though, everyone let me pass with no fuss or comment.  In fact, it was mostly silent for the entire "commute" I was doing.  Next, I changed from the Subway to the Airport Train.  I bought another token (35 Baht cash) and made my way through huge lines (everywhere) until I found myself in neat and orderly queues.  Most of us got on for a special train - it had to reverse direction on the track and then waited until it was completely full.  We were packed like sardines!  A bit disconcerting, I was surrounded by sick people (at least some wearing masks).  It was interesting to (again) watch the school kids.  I was VERY relieved as the Airport Train started clearning out at the halfway mark and even happier when we arrived at Airport stop (1900).  My train rides all afternoon were quite eye opening - SO MANY people behaving in an orderly, polite and efficient manner - very glad I got to witness that. A quick walk through the tunnels provided me with access to the Hyatt Regency lobby.  I’m definitely glad I ventured out for six hours (7+ miles of walking)!  I visited the Viking Cruise ladies and gave them a summary of "lessons learned", my Bangkok itinerary and said "thank you".  They were very appreciative (one said “you should work here with us”) and gave me a Singha Soda Water - that was very refreshing.  As I was departing, they recommended I check out the garden on the second floor so I could launch a flower in the moat.  When I took them up on the idea, I found more people from my Siem Reap Bus 1 group.  Fortunately, this allowed me to say my farewells.  Back in my room again (2030), I finished organizing for final packing and even had time for reading and watching videos.  I went to bed just after midnight.  My afternoon in the capital of Thailand (that probably would never have happened if I just followed the group) allowed me to reach the kind of “Travel Zen” that results when I’m on one of my solo travel missions. In the perfect scenario, I look around and realize I’m completely surrounded by locals who are going about their daily routines as though I’m not there.  Kind of like a fly on the wall. I’ve seen so many little kids playing games, old men talking on street corners, groups of young people smiling & laughing as they head out for dinner, shopkeepers chatting about their wares, patient train passengers surfing social media in perfect silence, couples looking longingly towards the setting sun as it crowns the monuments of the city.  I’ll never forget these images - very glad I’ve gotten to see a slice of life in this vibrant and interesting part of the world!

Southeast Asia Trip - Day 18

This morning, I was awake (without an alarm) at 0530 and had time for puzzles, Duolingo and reading.  I again enjoyed a good breakfast (pancake, French toast, beans, eggs, noodles, veggies) at the Park Hyatt Siem Reap restaurant (0715) and spent time exploring the varied cultural stations (painting, massage, flower petal folding, etc.) set up for our enjoyment.  At 0800, I joined my Viking Venus Extension group and boarded the motor coach.  While following Charles de Gaulle Boulevard Reth told us more about the area and our itinerary for the day.  Our second day in Siem Reap was intended to expose us more fully to the expansive "Ruins of Angkor" and give us a better picture of live in the Thirteenth Century capital of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Thom.  While perhaps not as famous as Angkor Wat, it dwarfs that Temple - in fact, there are 20 religious buildings in the Capital Complex!  To get inside this area, we had to get off of our large motor coach and get into smaller shuttle buses at the Angkor Wat parking lot (0830).  Fortunately, Reth was able to talk to both buses through QV.  After the shift to the little buses, we only drove for one mile (15 minutes) before we encountered an entrance to the archaeological site.  Our access point was at the South Gate of Angkor Thom - it was huge and featured four faces and three headed elephants.  The bridge we used to cross the moat had 54 demons and 54 gods with Naga on both sides.  Photos don't do the whole scene justice.  Continuing inside Angkor Thom, we made our way to what most people consider the most impressive religious structure inside the complex: Bayon Temple, which features 54 towers, each with a four faced god - a total of 216 faces!  We arrived in viewing distance by 0915 but then drove a full circuit of the building - it was huge.  Reth explained that the entire complex was a royal residence and intended to showcase the might of the Khmer Empire.  After getting off the bus, it was clear that we were in for another "sticky" day (overcast, with temps already in the mid 80s).  Our group toured most of the prominent features and learned a lot about the artwork on the walls and buildings.  Overall,  the whole place was amazing.  After rejoining our shuttle buses, we were offered a bathroom break - this was significant because public restrooms near the entrance of the complex were closed when we arrived.  Somehow, our drivers located a "Happy Room" in the jungle that could only be accessed by parking the buses in the middle of the road and telling us to hurry. Everyone in Bus 1 was cooperative and we were able to visit the Terrance of the Leper King (1035), where we went "walking into the underworld".  Next door to that feature, we were allowed to climb up on the Terrace of the Elephants, which featured more of the three headed elephants.  Around us, almost everywhere, were lots of vending children - I noticed signs that the government wants tourists to ignore them because it "prevents them from going to school,"  Good luck with that...  In the distance, we heard gibbon sounds.  I'd hoped for a bit more exploring nearby but we had to rejoin the shuttle buses by 1045 in order to depart for Ta Promh Temple.  I very much wanted to see that so I continued cooperating with Reth.  We arrived at the impressive landmark by 1100 and began another (longer walk) into the jungle.  Reth pointing out lots of native trees (Kapok for life jackets & Teak, Mahogany and Rattan for furniture) and we were therefore a bit stunned to suddenly be presented with spectacular views of a massive temple complex that appeared to be merged with the tree roots emerging from the stones.  The whole scene reminded me of "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom" and Reth mentioned that the movies "Tomb Raider” (Angelina Jolie) was filed at this site.  Unlike Angkor Wat and other locations in Angkor Thom, the whole place was ruled by tree roots that threaten to destroy the entire complex.  There were so many wonderful photo opportunities, including one of our Viking Group.  Above us, there were lots of loud, exotic bird calls.  Our surroundings were verdant but it was very hot and humid.  Reth showed us places where International NGOs (mostly sponsored, apparently, by Hindu and Buddhist countries) had restored the buildings to show what they might have looked like before the jungle began redecorating.  I got so many photos and then was treated to a special one, using the iPhone Pano feature (Reth;s idea), that showed me at two entrances to a temple building.  The walking in this area was slow going, due to lots of people, but the oppressive heat make fast travel difficult anyway.  We returned to our shuttle buses again at 1220.  As I've felt after hours in Cambodia each day, I was very sweaty and relieved to find another "Happy Room" for freshening up.  We departed Ta Promh and drove back towards our motor coach.  Along the way, we saw families eating food along the side of road.  With our shuttle bus exchange completed (1245) in the same place as last night, we drove to the PT House Restaurant (arrived at 1300) and had our next "set menu" lunch: deep fried spring rolls, chicken curry soup, Beef Loc Lac, stir fried vegetables, jasmine rice, pumpkin custard.  MMMMM....  Our group departed the restaurant at 1420 and we drove to Khmer Art School (Artisans Angkor), where we had a tour of the “Heritage Gallery” scheduled.  Between 1435 and 1535, we walked through a local trade school where rural residents (many with physical disabilities) of Cambodia learn traditional Khmer techniques for sculpture, silk and lacquer.  We also got to see stone working, wood carving, metalwork, etc.  Prior to COVID-19, the place apparently employed 1000 people.  On the way out, there was a shop for sales but I didn’t buy anything.  Instead, I ended up outside, talking with Reth.  I told him how impressed I was with his guide skills and Cambodia in general.  Once everyone else had returned to the bus (most were carrying shopping bags), we headed back to the Park Hyatt.  Almost immediately after we arrived, I made arrangements to take advantage of a complimentary 15 minute Tuk Tuk ride (a gift of the hotel).  The Front Desk had me onboard one of the motorbike-trailer combos within minutes and I got my taste of the scooter traffic craziness.  Without a windshield, I got to experience many interesting smells.  We passed Pub Street and the Old Market, crossed the river and suddenly stopped at Wat Bo, which featured several very pretty pagodas.  At that point, I got nervous because my driver (who didn't speak a lot of English) started a hard sell for a longer (and no longer complimentary) ride.  Fortunately, I resisted and we next drove north, past Wat Po Lang Ka and crossed the river (back to the west).  Closer to the hotel, we passed the children’s hospital.  I was able to make out that the driver had sent his children there at times and that it was very good.  (Note: Reth had told us something similar and had told us about how a Swiss pediatrician and musician, Dr. Beat Richner, had founded this institution and made such a huge, positive impact on the citizens and their family).  Even better than this insight into the wonderful effects of generous philanthropy, was an up close look at the memorial to victims of Khmer Rouge that the driver thoughtfully provided.  I got lots of videos throughout my wild ride through the streets of Siem Reap - what an experience!  I was back at the Park Hyatt by 1645 and spent time in my room, cleaned and completing my online Thailand entry Visa (I'd been pestered by several of my fellow passengers because they were worried I'd bever get back into Thailand).  I also worked on my blog and posted on social media.  At 1800, I met my group in the hotel lobby and we drove (with Reth) to Crystal Angkor restaurant in the motor coach (arrived at 1825).  Unlike many of the other meals we've eating during the last few weeks, this dinner had no posted menu.  Since we were all curious about what we were eating, we collaboratively speculated.  In the end, we concluded that the first course was probably a beef salad, while the second course was likely pumpkin soup.  For the Main Course, most were convinced that we were eating chicken, sweet & sour pork in a rice cup/dish.  The Dessert was easy: chocolate cake.  After another amazing dinner of Khmer Cuisine, there was a cultural event planned for our group tonight. For the first time on this trip, I asked to be excused for some “Jim Time” (before we have to leave in the morning).  Reth (regretfully ?) assisted me.  Since I wanted to experience the Annual Water Festival more than the Circus (the cultural event), he got me a Tuk Tuk and I rode it into town (1920).  The ride was similar to the one I'd taken in the afternoon but the difference was that the city was now filled with VERY busy traffic.  The driver was only able to get as far as the Old Market but then encountered a wall of other vehicles - he couldn't go forward, back or side to side and their was only a tiny amount of room for pedestrians.  Not surprisingly, I walked from there.  On the way, I was surrounded by a mass of humanity.  Somehow, I found my way to Pub Street.  There were so many people but I was one of the tallest and that helped to see where I wanted to go (reminded me of the train stations in Japan).  Eventually, I found a place where I felt like I could relax and get a drink: Amara (Mesa on 3rd floor).  I'd hoped to sit at a table on the balcony but it was raining again by the time I'd arrived.  Upon entering the main section, I was told by the female hostess that “my sister will serve you” and, when I queried, “we are all family.  I was lucky that I'd arrived on BOGO cocktail night!  “Taida” was my server and she set me up with a Passion (Fruit) Mojito.  During this same time, I was provided with (another) cold towel, an aperitif (not sure what it was), watermelon covered in sugar and some spicy banana chips.  For my second drink, I got a Tequila Sunrise.  During my time in the bar, several members of the staff stopped by my table to practice their (very good) English with me.  I finished my Pub Street experience at 2100 and then spent time walking (in the rain) nearby.  I explored the rest of Pub Street and had to fend off solicitations by massage parlors and men who offered girls.  Next, I crossed the river to see if there was anything happening for the Water Festival - sadly, there was not,  I did find some street vendors and passed the Preah Promh Roath Pagoda.  Eventually, the wet conditions made me think about returning the Park Hyatt - I made my way there via Pub Street and a street that I recognized as leading to where I wanted to go.  Back in the hotel lobby by 2145, I found that I'd beat Bus 1 back from the Circus.  While waiting for them to reappear, I visited with the man from our group whose wife had gone to the hospital earlier in the day - she was doing better.  When Reth and his group returned, I spoke with several of them too.  Reth was very interested in how I'd used my time and I gave him a detailed account (I also thanked him).  I was back in my room by 2200 and spent the next hour organizing and planning for departure early in the morning.  As I turned out the light (2300), I had to admit that the weather had been great during our visit, with only hints of rain most of the time (and only light drizzly conditions, usually).  It’s still been hot but far less brutal than other stops on my Southeast Asia Adventure.  I'm a bit sad to be leaving Cambodia...

Southeast Asia Trip - Day 17

Today was one of the main reasons I ever took a Southeast Asia trip at all: Angkor Wat!  What I've come to learn during the last 48 hours, though, is that that temple is just part of a massive complex but but the Khmer Empire nearly 1000 years ago.  Taking several days to visit just a fraction of the many historical and cultural sites makes a lot more sense.  In any case, we've got the main event today!  I was awake at at 0600 and spent time packing, working on puzzles, reading and completing Duolingo exercises.  At 0700, I went down the restaurant in the Park Hyatt Siem Reap and got some breakfast (eggs, noodles, beans, pancake, French toast).  I ate my food at a pretty garden table and was serenaded by traditional music.  I was pleasantly surprised to see that we had wonderful weather (not too hot, not too humid, not overcast).  After meeting the rest of my Bus 1 group in the lobby (0730), we boarded the motor coach and headed towards Angkor Wat.  On the way, Reth told us about the history of the temple; it was built in the Fourteenth Century and took 37 years to complete.  That was not a coincidence - 37 is a holy number to the Khmers.  We learned about the significance of the temple in the Cambodian flag, the reason for using five towers (but only three appear on the flag), the reason (and construction methods) for the moat and bridges.  Upon arrival (0800), we were immediately assailed by aggressive monkeys.  The weather was outstanding and the crowds weren't significant yet.  As we walked across the moat and entered the complex, “Red” took us to many different "perfect" photo spots.  While taking photos for each member of the group, he taught us how to say "1, 2, 3, Cheese" in Cambodian: "moy, bee, bye, Cheese".  In almost everything we encountered, there was a lot of mystic symbolism.  We passed many young couples, posing for photos in traditional garb, and learned about Cambodian wedding traditions.  Reth told us about the connection between Hindu and Buddhist in the Khmer and Cambodian cultures.  We passed libraries, crematoriums, stupas (outside the walls) and "resting rooms".  From photos he showed us in a special book he carried, it was clear that the Angkor Wat complex was even more impressive (painted) and magnificent (completed buildings) while it was being used within the Khmer civilization.  Even as it crumbles, the spectacular size and scope of the buildings still caused me to catch my breath at times.  We visited some of the interior structure and learned about the four quarters of the design, each with temple halls and cleansing pools that were used by the people depending on their astrological sign and/or life concern.  So much of what we learned still had a modern context for the local people - this was driven home very clearly by our guide's description of his young life just after the fall of the Khmer Rouge regime - the people still see the buildings as connected to their daily lives.  The whole visit was just as magical and memorable as I'd hoped and I was a bit sad when we finished our tour.  That being said, the crowds had expanded tremendously and the temps had climbed into the 80s (it was also very humid and I already felt very sweaty.  On the bus, the driver gave us each a cold towel - I'm really loving that tradition.  Next, we began driving towards the airport so we could visit our next temple.  Along the way, we passed many water buffalos and Reth treated us to “candy time”.  By 1115, we had arrived at Bakong Temple, built in 880 AD.  When I asked our guide if there were any older edifices nearby, he replied that almost everything older was built in the mountains nearby.  This temple complex had five levels and statues of elephants and lions.  Reth told us that the builder (an early king of the Khmers) was trying to replicate the concept of Mountain “Meru”, the home of the gods.  We were allowed to climb to the top of the structure and I was very impressed by the views and little architectural and artistic details I encountered along the way.  I explored the whole complex (only about one-twentieth the size of Angkor Wat) but had to meet the bus again at 1150.  Meanwhile, the Boomer Grandmas were doing a lot of shopping... One thing I've already noticed about this area is that we almost always encounter little kids waving and smiling at the buses.  Because of all the local attention, we didn't depart Bakong Temple until 1205.  Before leaving the area, Reth took us to nearby Preah Ko Temple, which was built a little later than Bakong.  It had six towers (three for ancestors and their consorts: grandfather/grandmother, father/mother, uncle/aunt).  The stucco artwork here was still very well preserved and I marveled at ancient writing and intricate scenes of mythic history and Eastern religious concepts.  As I mentioned, Angkor Wat gets all the fanfare but the area nearby, which has just as much significance to the local people, is widely diverse and amazing.  By this point in the day, I'd finally understood how my Brit passenger friends (on the flight to Siem Reap) could keep returning to Cambodia, year after year, without running out of places to visit or scenes to enjoy.  Back on the road (1225), Red told us more stories of his life and home near Angkor Wat, his grandmother’s stupa (on the grounds of Angkor, the scourge of landmines, etc.).  A 1255, we arrived at the Royal Theater Restaurant, where we ate a delicious lunch, which was another Set Menu: Grilled Beef Salad with Morning Glory Tempura, Clear Vegetable Soup, Grilled Chicken with Curry Sauce, Stir Fried Yellow Noodles with Pork, (Jasmine Rice), Steamed Pumpkin Pudding with Fresh Fruit.  Feeling quite satisfied, our group departed at 1420 and drove for one hour to reach our next tour destination.  Along the way, I marveled at the different kinds of cows that I kept seeing.  They didn't look anything like the Holsteins, Jerseys, Angus, etc. we have at home.  (When I had WiFi again, I asked Google AI to tell me more about what I had been seeing.  The response: "Cows in Cambodia are primarily zebu (Bos indicus), including the local Kor Khmer (or Khmer) breed, which is a domesticated, yellow-haired, humped cattle. Other breeds present are the Hariana from India and the Brahman from the Philippines, along with various crossbreds.")  Back on the bus, our drive had to navigate so many holes and treacherous obstacles to driving that I wondered if we'd make it safely.  Happily, by 1515, we'd arrived at Banteay Srei Temple, a Tenth Century structure that which was located near the Cambodia Landmine Museum (we didn't end up visiting that but I'm sure it was good).  While we were parking, Reth pointed out that most of the temples were built as Hindu temples but later became (in most cases, forcibly,) Buddhist. This worked well, mostly, because the pantheon of gods was related.  It also allowed local Buddhist people to feel comfortable using the grounds for their daily worship.  Once we'd walked a few hundred yards into the jungle, we saw lots of lotus plants, exotic birds (in the trees), free range chickens (on the ground) and lots of rice paddies.  With the latter sight, we also got to see people harvesting their rice crops - it looked like very difficult work. Even more impressive, though, were the many examples of amazing carvings that were still clearly visible.  I actually enjoyed this temple very much until one too many buses offloaded their passengers and there was "standing room only."  Once that occurred, I saw outside the buildings on a big rock and relaxed until the tall trees.  After retracing our steps through the forest and reaching our motor coach again, we departed at 1630.  Reth gave us another “candy time” while Mr. Long drove us back to Siem Reap in a reverse direction from the early afternoon.  During this time, my clothes stayed wet from all the sweating I'd done during the day (chafing started).  I really wanted to go back to my hotel room and change but Reth had an idea that we might be able to watch a beautiful sunset from Srah Srang, a huge Khmer Empire era Reservoir.  Since the motor coach was too big to reach that place, we had to stop (1700) to switch to a smaller bus.  From there, we drove through busy streets and stopped (1720) at Pre Rup Temple.  This place, like all the others today, was a wonderful place for.  Once we arrived at the reservior, though, we didn't get lucky enough to see a sunset - instead, there was only massive thunder storm clouds.  All around us, the young kids were hard selling the Boomer Grandmas.  This likely delayed our departure...  Once we left, it took from 1745 to 1830 (with the traffic and bus swap) to reach the Park Hyatt again.  I was so ready for a break but Reth told us we only had one hour to change clothing and rejoin him for our dinner.  So, at 1930, I was back with my group and reboarded the motor coach.  Our destination tonight was a place called "Street 27), which was located across the river (east side) and featured a “Khmer Set Menu”: Banana Blossom Chicken Salad, Chicken Sour Soup, Stir-Fried Pork Cashew Nut, Grilled Chicken Satay served with Peanut Sauce, Steamed Jasmine Rice, Fresh Fruit with Passion Sauce.  As usual, all the food was excellent and I felt refreshed after a full day of walking, exploring, sweating and hydrating.  We finally departed the restaurant at 2115 and I was back in my hotel room by 2130.  I spent about 90 minutes blogging, reading (audiobooks), etc. before going to bed (2300).  I have to admit that we had beautiful weather for a once-in-a-lifetime stop at Angkor Wat.  So many amazing memories - an unbeatable experience and a great day!

Southeast Asia Trip - Day 16

My farewell to Viking Venus was scheduled for 0300 this morning (ugh) so I could catch a bus to Suvarnabhumi Airport (Bangkok). Despite setting my alarm for 0230, I was awake at 0140.  Since I didn't trust myself to go back to sleep, I read and worked on puzzles and Duolingo exercises.  With 30 minutes to go, I got out of bed and double checked that I had everything.  I assembled with the rest of the Angkor Wat Extension passengers in The Atrium at 0245.  Unfortunately, the only “breakfast” available was chocolate and a package of nuts from my stateroom mini bar (I'd also grabbed a few of the drinks, since I'd never taken any for the whole cruise and the "first ones are free").  Soon, we began the long process of getting off the ship, walking through the extensive "immigration" hall, collecting our luggage, triaging bags (I sent one to airport, to accompany me to Siem Reap, and one to a Bangkok Hotel, where I will be arriving on November 5).  Around me, some passengers were very stressed out and bitching all the way through the process - I tried to distance myself from them.  It was a bit sad to say farewell to Viking Venus, my home for two weeks... By 0310, though, I was on the bus and was immediately asked a series of questions by the onboard Viking Reps about the Cambodian Visa.  By this point, I'd received so much guidance (all of it contradictory) that I basically ignored the people talking about completing it online.  My rationale: I'd have to turn on my mobile service just to do anything and there was "Visa on Arrival" anyway...  We departed the Port at 0320 and, almost immediately, got stuck at a train crossing.  Once we got out of Laem Chabang, though, there was no traffic on the Expressway.  I wanted to sleep but it was quickly evident that we did NOT have a good bus driver - added to that, the rough road made dozing difficult.  Instead, I tried to figure out where we were and where we were headed - unfortunately, the ubiquitous Thai script was too much for my sleep deprived brain...  Surprise, though: I saw my first church in Thailand - it's cross was lit up near Suvarnabhumi Airport  when we arrived at at 0450.  After retrieving my bag from the bus holding area, I walked (along with everyone else) through the terminal.  By this time, the extremely early departure seemed to be a very good idea because we weren’t at the Thai Airlines check-in until 0500.  Unfortunately, the gate agent told me she couldn’t issue me a ticket because my name was incorrect in their system.  I'll admit that I panicked a bit because all the Viking Reps had disappeared - I even went searching but couldn’t find them.  When I returned to the Thai Airlines counter (I'd accidentally left something there), there was a Viking Rep waiting on me.  Whew!  Even then, though, it took quite a while to resolve the issue and we eventually had to go to the Airline's headquarters inside the airport.  After an hour of resolving the reservation/passport mix-up, I was finally able to enter the Immigration queue at 0615.  With the additional security screenings, getting snacks (drink, Haribo gummy bears) to satisfy my increasing hunger and walking to reach the gate, I barely made it onboard my Thai Airways aircraft (A320) at 0730.  I found myself sitting next to some Brits who told me they visit Siem Reap every year.  We finally finally departed Bangkok at 0815 - it was quite a relief to find myself rolling down the runway!  With only an hour before arrival in Cambodia, I was very surprised when the flight attendants managed to complete a full meal service of a chicken Caesar wrap, fruit (dragon fruit, papaya, apple and hot tea - amazing job!  We (me and 59 other passengers from Viking Venus) were actually in our descent to Siem Reap by 0855 and landed a short time later.  The taxi to the gate took a bit longer - fortunately, I was near the front of the aircraft and made good time to the Immigration area (0915).  At first, I was given priority for the line after I showed my entry QR Code from the online website.  However, I soon learned (once again) that the process recommended by Viking was incorrect.  Like a zombie (because of lack of sleep), I backtracked to another line so I could get a Visa on Arrival.  After everything that had happened, I was pleasantly surprised to find that this process was rather easy.  It seemed to be all about paying cash ($30 US).  Even better, the main line hadn’t gotten very long yet and I was soon talking to the original immigration official and through the queue.  Next, I collected my checked bag and headed to Customs (nothing to declare).  As a result, I found the Viking group very early (0950) and was assigned "Bus #1" when I couldn't recall the number of our bus at 0300.  This ended up being a lucky break because the guide chose me for his group.  The seats onboard the motor coach were luxurious - they almost looked like "Captain's Chairs"!  During this time (for the second or third time recently), I accidentally moved the wireless button from airplane mode to "on".  I hope I don't get charged by AT&T (I later learned that I wasn't).  Once we had all our passengers, we got to meet our Guide, Reth ("Red"), a local man who told us he grew up on the grounds of Angkor Wat.  Our driver's name was Mr. Long.  We left the airport at 1000 and it soon became clear that our guide was wonderful - he had good language skills and good stories and was extremely personable.  He told us a lot of  history (hard to digest with so little sleep).  One important comment I did like, though, was that we will be with him for the rest of the trip (I'm not sure, but I think there are two other buses).  Reth told us he was adjusting the printed itinerary to improve the next few days of visiting Siem Reap.  The first major change was that we made a stop at “Angkor Wat Enterprise” to get our temple passes (1050).  Each passenger had to pose for a photo that would be added to their ticket (required to access the grounds).  While waiting for the rest of our group, I noticed an Angkor Wat passport book and decided to get one (my first souvenir of the entire trip).  We departed at 1110 and next visited the Angkor National Museum.  After arriving at 1125, we watched a historical movie, visited the room of 1000 Buddhas, learned more about the history of the Khmer Empire, were shown engineering schematics (and a model) related to the building of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.  We also got to see lots of examples of clothing (or lack thereof) of the ancient peoples.  Meanwhile, it started raining.  We departed the museum at 1250 and arrived at Park Hyatt Siem Reap (our home for the next few days) within 15 minutes.  The hotel staff provided a gauntlet of umbrellas, which kept us mostly dry, and did much bowing.  Before I realized it, we were sitting down to lunch in the hotel restaurant.  It was a set menu, with a strawberry flavored aperitif, Grilled Chicken with Mango Salad & Khmer Dressing, River Fish Amok, Jasmine Rice and Steamed Rice Bun (dessert), washed down by some local beer.  The food tasted so good!  Next (1355), I checked into my room and was blown away by the five-star opulence.  By 1405, I was peacefully napping - I didn't wake up again until 1730. Only then did I start to feel “normal” again after the strange morning schedule. Before we needed to meet up for dinner (!), I spent some time unpacking my bag.  At 1830, I joined the other Viking Venus Extension passengers in the hotel lobby.  I thought I knew most of them but then recognized a new (to me) couple - the turned out to be from Viking Orion (Pre-Cruise Extension).  They raved about how great the tour of Siem Reap had been and that buoyed my spirits.  At 1840, the Bus 1 group got into the motor coach with Mr. Long and we headed towards our dinner venue.  The streets were very busy due to the upcoming Water Festival, but we reached "Korko 1979" by 1850.  Our meal, with a "Western Set Menu”, was Garden Vegetable Salad with Italian Sauce, Potato Cream Soup, Grilled (Amok?) Fish with White Cream Sauce and Crème Brûlée.  Again, everything was amazing!  We stayed at the restaurant until 1955 (by then it had started raining again) and then drove back to the hotel.  More traffic made the driving a little longer but we still arrived within 30 minutes.  Almost everyone else called it a night afterwards but I (after my nap earlier) was ready to do some more exploring. I started by looking at all the hotel amenities (pools, etc.).  It continued raining but I didn't want to miss out on additional experiences.  So, at 2030, I borrowed umbrella from the hotel staff and walked down to the river.  It took about 10 minutes to reach the water and the area was much busier than it had been near the Hyatt.  I spent time exploring shops, vendor tents, boats that were assembled for this week’s Water Festival and the vibrant night life of the local people.  At one point, a guy on a scooter started trying to set me up with some local girls (I ignored him).  After the brief break I’d had in Thailand, it felt very nice to be back in Cambodia - I’ve truly grown to love the culture and people here.  It was hard to choose to stop exploring but I forced myself to walk back towards the hotel.  After this brief excursion, I was in my room again at 2100 - by then, I felt pretty ready for "regular" bedtime.  I did some more unpacking and had fun with blogging, puzzles and audiobooks.  Bedtime was at 2300.  Tomorrow, I’ll be visiting one of the World’s “Grand-daddy Bucket List Items”: Angkor Wat!

Southeast Asia Trip - Day 14

With only a few hours at the pier this morning, the passengers on Viking Venus had very limited time for excursions - fortunately, I had signed up for a tour to fill the time!  I slept better overnight and was awake (feeling rested) just after 0600.  There was time to complete puzzles, do some reading and fill out the Thailand Online Arrival Card (the latter was not easy but I managed to complete it).  At 0715, I headed down to Guest Services to ask questions about my Angkor Wat extension.  This revealed that the documentation I'd received about a 0245 meeting on November 2 (for departing Viking Venus) was accurate - dang...  I then got other questions about the Extension (visa, baggage, itinerary, etc.) answered.  Along the way, I found out that there were 59 people going with me on the trip (back) to Cambodia.  Next (0745), I went to breakfast (beans, baguette sandwich, fruit, cereal, pastries) at the World Cafe.  I was finished eating by 0810 and then headed to the gangway area so I could board the bus for my tour. We departed at 0830 - our “Sihanoukville Discovery” guide's name was Vichethur (“Jet”).  Sadly, I noticed that my tour included the annoying Boomer Shopping Ladies again...  Like a trip I took earlier on the cruise (Yen Duc, Vietnam), this excursion gave me a glimpse of the life of local Cambodians as they went about their daily lives.  It only took about 10 minutes to leave the Port and we arrived at a small fishing village by 0855.  In that area, we encountered a bustling seafood market, precarious nests of household wiring and food processing operations.  The residents of the village were clearly very poor and, for the first time, I noticed a significant of pollution.   On the other hand, the children smiled and waved, while the adults bowed and were quite friendly.  We had to hide out from a passing rain shower in a busy warehouse - they made ice, fish paste and other crafts.  Overall, it was good to experience this part of Cambodian life.  We departed on the bus at 0935 and made our way to the next stop of the tour.  Along the way, we stopped for a bathroom break at a gas station, which Jet told was was much “cleaner than the Pagoda Happy Room”.  By 1000, we had resumed our drive and soon arrived at Wat Krom Pagoda, a local place of worship that featured several instances of the Noble Wheel, a sleeping Buddha, ornate architecture, family stupas, Buddhist Monks eating their midday meal (we even got to see the local people bringing their food offer wings).  Other important sights included: a huge Stupa built in honor of the “disappeared” victims of the Khmer Rouge Killing Fields and a dancing performance by local ladies (they added an interpretation of the hand movements).  Our guide provided lots of information about life of the monks and the meaning of the many religious (Hindu, Buddhist and Animist) symbols (e.g., "spirit houses").  At one point, I spent time quietly watching the behavior of the monks and the local people who were bringing their food to the temple for the upcoming mid-day meal.  There were dogs all over the complex - Jet told us that Cambodians don't send pets to shelters and, instead, just donate them to the monks (who have to care for them).  Speaking of pets, I've noticed that there haven't been a lot of varieties of dogs or cats - they almost all look the same to me...  Before the stop was over, I was flabbergasted to hear some ridiculous (and, frankly, insulting) Boomer questions about reincarnation.  Despite this minor reminder of the USA, I was quite pleased with the temple visit.  We departed Wat Krom at 1045 and drove towards the waterfront.  On the way, I was (again) struck by the ubiquitous coughing passenger on the bus - how am I not sick?  We passed monkeys at various places on the road - they were very sociable and the local people seemed to be feeding them.  At 1050, we arrived at the famous Independence Beach, where Jackie Kennedy Onassis made a goodwill visit in 1967.  Unfortunately, the water was rough and polluted so I eschewed going in for a swim.  Instead, I sat on a bench and enjoyed a local (Angkor) beer.  It’s been so hot (high 80s) and humid (80%) that the sea breeze was very welcome.  I also explored the coast a bit and located the hotel, which was located to the west of the main beach.  The waves were big enough that they occasionally covered the walking path - I ended up returning by a different (and drier) route.  Along the way, I did some birding and checked out the Infinity Pool (it looked very inviting).  We departed for the ship at 1145 and were boarding Viking Venus about 15 minutes later.  In my room again, I spent time completing excursion questionnaires and doing some prep for my upcoming trip to Angkor Wat.  Starting at 1245, I enjoyed lunch (pizza, salad, etc.) at the World Cafe.  The ship was celebrating the approaching end of the cruise by bringing out ALL of their many (delicious) desserts.  There was s huge line for getting some when I checked but I didn't end up getting any.  Since many of the tables were already occupied and I'd taken a table for four, I ended up being joined by two ladies (Linda and Maggie, friends from Macon, GA).  We talked for a while and the conversation was enjoyable.  During this time, Viking Venus departed Cambodia - we are Thailand bound!  Back in my room (1430), I took a nap for about 90 minutes.  Upon waking, I filled out Cambodia travel visa (online) for the Angkor Wat - I hope this will be the last paperwork!  At 1800, I was able to get back to Manfredi's again for dinner (Caprese Salad, Spaghetti alla Carbonara, Parmigiana di Pollo, Chilean Cab-Sav).  I sat at a "shared table" and met couples from Vancouver (BC) and Florida.  Dan from Augusta, GA (who was at the Solo Traveler's Lunch) was there too.  I finished eating at 2000 and then spent some time walking, visiting, etc. before returning to my stateroom again.  Before bed, I watched the Bangkok Port Talk and enjoyed some of the "Beatles Tribute" performance.  The latter activity was actually a part of the Viking Farewell Reception, which I skipped because of the crowds.  I turned out the light at about 2215 while Viking Venus was entering Thai waters.  Excited to visit another country tomorrow!

Southeast Asia Trip - Day 13

First Day in Cambodia!  Viking Venus docked at the port of Sihanoukville early this morning and my first excursion in country started very early; “Phnom Penh Highlights” required a three hour drive to reach the Capital.  Unfortunately, I hadn’t slept well due to pipe maintenance going on all night long.  Somehow, I managed to wake up (with alarm) at 0600.  This gave me some time for reading, puzzles and Duolingo.  For some reason, there were internet issues - hope that doesn't last... I ate breakfast (baguette sandwich, eggs, bacon, beans, cereal) at the World Cafe (0635).  I went to get some small bills from Guest Services but learned that the ship had run out of $5 bills ("we'll get some more in Bali").  Along with the other passengers who had the same tour, I spent the next 25 minutes waiting in the Star Theater until we were told we could leave the ship.  At 0720, we went out in search of our buses (each of us had been given, like we were for each excursion, a ticket with a group number).  Once everyone was onboard, the guides checked that everyone was appropriately attired for temples (e.g., shorts not too short, ladies upper body modestly covered) and some people had to go back to their rooms to change before we could leave. As a result, we weren't able to depart until 0740 (the last bus, of four).  As we headed out of the "Wet Port" area, we got to know our tour guides: Sam (Vietnamese name was Sok Ros, which means “Stay Alive”) and “Sraeling”.  Our Bus Driver was Khet.  Sam initially introduced himself as a former Buddhist monk but then explained that he'd joined the temple in order to get an education and make a better future for himself.  What an amazing insight into the day-to-day life of a Cambodian who wanted to improve his lot in life!  We learned several phrases in Khmer: “Arun Suste” (good morning), “Ogum” (thank you), "Suesday" (hello, with "Bat" in response) and "TomTom" (very much).  Sam also provided a lot of history and explained the use of Campuchea versus Cambodia for the country's name.  Our bus ride was quite comfortable - it was the best road surface we’ve seen in Southeast Asia!  As we drove along the very smooth expressway (toll road), we passed lots of cows, oxen, crops (rice, fruit trees).  Sam began telling us (very) personal stories of his life during and after the Khmer Rouge regime.  he explained the background of Pol Pot and moved on to tell us about the Prime Minister and his family (which includes a son who recently became the new PM).  About half way into the three hour drive, we stopped at very clean rest stop exit (Mao’s).  As we got off the bus at this location (and several others), Sam was very liberal with the toilet paper ("there sometimes isn't any").  Inside, I managed to change $1 into Cambodian Rial (0925).  At this place, I first encountered outdoor urinals, which seem to be a "thing" in the entire country...  After 10 minutes at this rest stop, we departed - Sam was very liberal with the hand sanitizer...  "Sraeling” distributed a snack (croissant, tea) to everyone as we drove north.  We got into a traffic jam near the "Dry Port".  While we were getting on the National Road, Sam told us about geopolitical challenges: roads named for Trump and Xi, Thailand versus Cambodia (recent conflict).  We passed the old Phnom Penh Airport (Sam told us they'd recently opened a new one outside of the city).  Almost everywhere I looked, I saw tuk tuks and scooters.  One big difference between Ho Chi Minh City and the Cambodian Capital, though , was that there were many more cars.  By this time, the temps had risen into the low 80s - Sam said this was considered cold by the locals.  Meanwhile, I was happy that it wasn't hotter...  Our first stop (1100) was at the Wat Phnom ("Hill of Phnom") Temple.  We learned that the "phnom" (mountain) and associated tale of a "Grandmother Penh" was the origin for the city's name.  This honorable personage found a tree and some holy artifacts in the area and this generated interest among the population for building a manmade hill for the resulting temple.  Otherwise, the Capital city is very flat.  We toured the grounds and encountered a lot of interesting art.  While Sam was busy telling all the slower (and partially incapacitated) passengers about landmarks at the bottom of the "mountain", I decided to climb to the top.  There were several big stupas up there.  I made a point to go inside (sans shoes) to see the Buddha.  At about this time, the typical rain that we've seen across Southeast Asia began.  Fortunately, I had my umbrella.  While assembling for our bus pickup (1130), Sam pointed out many, many fruit bats in a nearby tree - wow!  Back in the motor coach, we drove along the outflow for Tonle Sap (“Great Lake”) and Sam told us how this river interacts with the Mekong River as they join in Phnom Penh.  During the changeover from Wet to Dry Season (and back again), the water direction of the Tonle Sap River changes direction.  This is connected with the annual Water Festival (soon to take place in Cambodia).  Sam described how the colors of the rivers are different during these changeovers and I was reminded of my visit to Passau, Germany).  When we arrived at the Royal Palace (1305), we started to encounter Buddhist monks, in orange outfits, carrying yellow umbrellas.  Sam then told us that each day of the week has a color in the cultures of Southeast Asia and that orange and yellow were colors of calmness.  During this time, Sam also pointed out other government buildings: Palace of Justice & Supreme Court.  Once off of the bus, we used the "Happy Room" (restroom).  Several other people in the group were annoyed that that there was absolutely no privacy (women could see everything going on in the men's bathroom).  Undaunted, I finished my business and rejoined Sam in a commentary about a nearby cannonball tree. which has a new flower every day for the entire year., For some reason, though, the Magnolia is the National Flower.  Next, we toured the Palace grounds - we were able to go inside the throne room (no photos allowed) and visit two exceptional stupas that housed the ashes of prior Kings of Cambodia.  The current King was actually present inside the complex - a blue flag indicates when he is at home.  Overall, the building colors, floral varieties and priceless artwork left me awestruck.  We also got to visit the Silver Pagoda (no photos), which had a floor of pure silver, a jade Buddha and a "golden god" statue weighing168 pounds and covered with diamonds.  Wow!  Meanwhile, it got VERY hot.  On the way out of the Palace, we met Sam’s mother she was working as vendor at Palace.  Since we’d earlier heard about her heroic attempts to save her children from the ravages of the Khmer Rouge, we all gave her a round of applause.  Sam was very moved, I think, and proceeded to tell us about his wife and daughter as soon as we were on the bus again (1310).  Our ride didn't last long, though, and we were next dropped off (for lunch) at Malis (a restaurant) at 1315.  This place was actually listed in my travel book as a “not to miss” - glad to get a chance to see something so world-renowned...  The menu consisted of a passion fruit aperitif, Scallop with green peppercorns; Amok Fish with lemongrass curry paste in banana leaf basket; jasmine rice steamed inside lotus leaf bag; Palm Set dessert (coconut ice cream, Fried Ombuk Cake, Sugar Glutinous rice balls) & Angkor Beer.  Everything was excellent!  We departed the restaurant at 1415 (15 minutes later than Sam wanted) and drove to the Central Market (we arrived at 1430) and were given 30 minutes for shopping.  Almost everyone was very excited about this opportunity but I only gave the market a cursory walk-through.  I found it interesting that none of the vendors approached me - what a difference from Hong Kong and all of Vietnam...  It was SO hot!  Next, I walked in streets nearby and stopped for a cold drink at 53 Central Coffee.  I ordered an iced lemon tea without thinking about the ice cubes inside of the drink - we'd been warned NOT to get those under threat of stomach distress.  Oh well - this was like drinking from the mountain streams in Patagonia...  I rejoined Sam at the bus-stop by 1455 and we departed the Central Market by 1500.  Our visit to Phnom Penh was over, unfortunately.  There was a lot of traffic on the way out of the Capital - we used Highway 4 but didn't really get moving again until we were clear of the "Dry Port" again.  Along the way, I watched as we passed lots of [Brahma] bulls and various fruit trees (rubber, mango, coconut).  About halfway back to the "Wet Port", we stopped at a rest area (1705) that had views of National Park.  I climbed up on a roof and got a good view of a nearby waterfall.  During this stop, I talked with Sam about the process of taking a ferry to the Southern Islands and he made it sound very easy.  In fact, he shared all kinds of information (port number, cost, destination and times for the outbound and return trips) and I was hopeful that I could make the trip happen (the area sounded wonderful and unspoiled).  Back on the road by 1715, we were treated to a beautiful sunset and more stories from Sam: "Life of a Buddhist Monk", tales of Cambodian elephants, snakes and foods like "KFC" (Khmer Fried Cricket).  Undeterred by talk of such things, I ate a late afternoon snack (ham & cheese baguette, soda) that was distributed by “Sraeling”.  As the excursion was coming to an end, I was convinced that Sam was the best tour guide I’ve seen so far.  His passionate descriptions of the travails of his people were almost mesmerizing and his personal anecdotes about life under Pol Pot, the heroic sacrifices of his mother, the death or disappearance of beloved family members and the long, slow process of national healing kept us spellbound during the entire drive.  We arrived at Viking Venus (1830) and, almost immediately after I boarded the ship, I tried to get information from the ship's crew about going to the Southern Islands. They were very resistant and defensive about me trying something "so unusual".  As a result, I gave up my idea...  A bit disappointed, I went to my room to relax - finally got internet working again!  I was torn about getting dinner (since we'd eaten enough during the excursion) but I decided late (2000) that I'd head to World Cafe for desserts and wine. At 2040, I attended the Traditional Khmer Music Group and was quite impressed by their skill in demonstrating dances, along with excellent instrumental and vocal expression.  I stayed for about 15 minutes and then walked around the ship to complete my 10K step goal.  I took one break for Mahjong and viewing of an animated Bayeux Tapestry cartoon. In my room again at 2130, worked on blog and social media updates before going to bed at 2245.  What a great day trip - very glad I went into Phnom Penh!  We’ve got one more day in Sihanoukville - hoping to go to the beach...