Sunday, March 7, 2010

San Juan Island, WA (USA)

Found out late last night that I wouldn't get a chance to fly today - disappointing, but that means I had some free time... Weather not as nice as yesterday (sprinkles all morning)... Drove over to Anacortes around 0900L and caught a car-ferry to the San Juan Islands. Amazing scenery, even with the low overcast. Saw water-skimming birds, lots of floating logs and unbelievably remote homes on the edge of small islands [I've since been told that there may be as many as 170 in this chain]. First stop was at Orcas Island - intriguing, but ferry schedule limited my ability to see more than one today. The ferry captain navigated through the chain adeptly - thank goodness for GPS, I guess, because I can't imagine how people can find their way around with no clear passages in view (island after island). Finally arrived at Friday Harbor, San Juan Island. Drove out of town (it isn't very big) and quickly found myself on a country road with noone else but cows and sheep. I've been reminded all day of the Maine Coast... Drove out to Lime Kiln Park - it is well known as the best place in the area to watch Orca (AKA Killer Whales) from the shore. Walked around for awhile on the beach but never saw anything in the water - photos posted on the Whale Watching board indicated that a pod last came through at the end of January. It also discussed the fact that the three pods (named J, K and L) are known as the "Southern Residents" and have been traveling between San Juan Island and Vancouver Island for many years. Weather was improving at this point - could see across to Canada and even the edge of the Olympic Range. I did see a bald eagle flying by... Drove down the coast towards the southern tip of the island - got stopped by a pre-fab home (so THAT's how they get the houses on the little islands!) trailer that had jack-knifed on the road (glad I had a local map). Finally made it to San Juan Island National Historic Park. This nearly became the place where a third war with England could have occurred (1859) when an American killed a Brit's pig on disputed land (uncovered by the treaty that made the 49th Parallel the US-Canada border). Thankfully, no people were killed and the dispute was finally resolved in the early 1870s (making these islands part of the US). Explored both the American Army Camp and (after short drive to the north side of the island) the British Camp. Later stumbled across Roche Harbor, a high-end resort [locals told me that it is one of the most utilized ports of entry to the US - by small boat!]. Drove back to town and had dinner at the Blue Water Bar & Grill. When I was about the leave, I ended up talking to two local residents who described their love for these islands and some of the challenges (mail delivery, child-birth back on the mainland, etc.). They were very genuine and friendly but their descriptions of this area reminded me of the feeling I had on Cape Cod when tourists would ask me for directions. When I left the restaurant I noticed that a long line of cars had assembled near where the ferry landing was - it got me to thinking "should I be worried about getting back tonight?" I decided to park in the line - wisely, it turned out. Made it out on the 1630L ferry, fortunately... As we "sailed" back to Anacortes, I saw short glimpses of a harbor seal (locals called him Popeye). Might have slept a little but for constant announcements (humorous) of two car alarms going off on the car-deck below... Drove back to the Navy Gateway Inn right after disembarking, happy with having taken a chance to see something like this. Spent most of the night packing and wrapping up some paperwork I brought with me.