Slackpacking Trip - Day 4

Woke up at 0530 to make sure I could finish hiking up Katahdin before the forecasted rain. Tiptoed through the hostel to avoid waking all the other hikers... Ready to go (as planned) at 0600 but I waited for a bit to see if any of the other hikers wanted a ride. There were no takers, so I headed north towards Baxter State Park. I arrived at the gate and found a small line of cars (already!) at 0630 - I paid the fee and then took a wrong turn in the dark, ending up at Roaring Brook Campground - on the opposite side of the mountain from where I wanted to be... A ranger steered me back to my intended destination (a 16 mile correction - on a gravel road with 20 mph speed limit - for my error...). Despite these setbacks, I arrived at Katahdin Stream Campground at 0730. It was overcast and cool (high 30s again). I took a look at the other hikers who were starting off from KSC and dressed to match - very layered with more warm stuff in my backpack. Checked in at the hiker registration and started up the mountain (0740). By the time I'd hiked a mile, I was already sweating - but couldn't take off layers because it got colder as I climbed. I passed two groups of school kids - it buoyed my spirits (if they can do it, so can I!). By the end of the climb, however, I came to the conclusion that the teachers/chaperones were crazy... The mountain trail was very strenuous (as advertised) - you are hiking up nearly 4500 feet in just over five miles. This is as varsity as I've ever seen, but it was the rock climbing (rebar railings required) that really startled me. Plus, add 25-40 mph winds and cold cloud environment (basically, fog) and you've got the Stairmaster from Hell! At least one other hiker seemed to be having the same kind of day and we assisted each other with handing items up and down to each other as we climbed. Saw several other people in the fog who didn't seem to be dressed for this weather (or even with packs)... Eventually, though, I got separated from everyone else and figured they all gave up. Strangely, though, I saw no one coming back down the Hunt Trail. About three miles into my climb (it seemed like 26), I became very worried that I would never make it up to the top (much less down). I had the determination and the stamina, but I was genuinely concerned that I would slip or lose my grip on a vertical. My second pole, which had survived my fall on the first day in Maine, ultimately became a casualty of the day when I just left it next to a rock (I was afraid to carry it any farther up, since I need both hands to hold on!). At any given point, I could only see about 20 yards ahead - the phantom ridges in the clouds never seemed to end... Actually, I was so sure I'd made a colossal error in doing this that I was surprised to encounter people when I reached the top. A few through hikers were celebrating and one die-hard Katahdin fan (has been hiking it annually for 25 years) took my picture at the summit. It was reassuring at that point - all of the other hikers shared my concerns about the return hike - so we proceeded down on a different route (Saddle & Chimney Pond Trails). It was a sheltered route (less wind) but almost as dangerous (rocks loose underfoot - settled with each step). Still, it was good to be with other hikers and I enjoyed hearing the tales of their through hike - highs, lows, challenges, etc. By the time we'd hiked about two miles, I realized it would actually be a farther distance than the climb. I sped up and hurried downhill as fast as I could, stopping only to take in great views of the lakes when we got below the cloud layer. We saw lots of people who were headed up the mountain - they would never make it to the summit today, though. When I got to Roaring Springs Campground (1430), I had to face the consequences of my decision: it would be very difficult to get a ride back to where I parked... A ranger was nice enough to get me three miles (out of 16) closer to my car and then I hiked two more miles in the rain. Eventually, my hitchhiking efforts paid off and I got a ride from some nice people from Chicago to the toll booth (entrance). When I got there, I asked the ranger collecting fees for help getting a ride the rest of the way. The very next car had some people nice people from Indiana who were happy to drive me up to KSC, since they were picking up a family member who finished his through hike today. By the time I reached my car (1600), I calculated that I had hiked roughly 13 miles. I was drenched - even without steady rain - but THEN it started raining for real... Realized at that point I hadn't eaten anything all day! As I was driving back into Millinocket, I had to wait for a big moose to cross the road. I arrived at the AT Lodge (1715) again just as it got dark (somehow got a cell signal). Decided to take Woody and his friends (e.g., Austin) up on the offer to join them at Pelletier Loggers Family Restaurant for dinner. It was Taco Tuesday - food was very filling (I didn't even go back for seconds) - tasted a bit of whoopie pie for desert (mmm...). Very tired when I got to my room (a double bed in a warmer section of the hostel), so I just read for a bit, packed and planned for the next day. Fell asleep at 2130 - after a very satisfying day! Today = 5.31 miles / Grand Total AT = 177.14.