Summer Vacation Trip - Day 12

Olympic NP - Day 4! We got up at 0645 and ate breakfast at the hotel (Econo Lodge, Sequim). Mollie and I discussed Eileen’s YRQ results - Mollie was very interested and I added her to the Kayutuq group on Facebook. We then drove to the Red Hawk Stables (nearby), arriving at our scheduled time for the ride (0800). Inclement weather was forecasted for 1000 this morning so we had left our hotel early, hoping to be able to enjoy the special trail ride with a new company in Sequim. The owner (Elizabeth) told us she decided only two weeks ago to start providing trail rides with her five horses and we were some of the first paying customers. At around 0815, we left the stable on "Kona" (Jim) and "Rainy" (Mollie), along with our guide (Elizabeth on "Mustang") and her two dogs, Lucas and Grandma. We rode deep into the forest along the northeastern edge of ONP and had a great time, despite the thick overgrowth, misty weather and muddy conditions. We'd asked for an hour but probably got an extra half hour because there was no one else expected. Elizabeth told us that she was committed to buying rescue horses for her business and planned to increase her herd to 10+ horses over the coming year. We learned a lot about the locals, the annual weather and got some more ideas for future visits. At the very end of the ride, we saw a great view of the Cascades across the Sound (including the base of Mount Baker). However, it started raining pretty hard almost as soon as we got into our car (1000). On our way out of Sequim, we stopped one more time at John Wayne Marina (no otters this time). We then made our way on US-101 through the very eastern edge of the Park and the National Forest. This route also took us down the west coast of the Hood Canal to the town of Hoodsport, where we ate lunch (Model T Diner) with one of Mollie's school friends who is spending the summer with her grandparents in the area. It did stop raining while we were there but a strong breeze, coming in from the northwest, signaled incoming rain. We walked around in a small city market area before saying goodbye to Rano, her sister (Mimi) and her grandparents. In all of our travels during the four days we had to experience Olympic National Park, we very much enjoyed ourselves and started to look forward to another visit. After lunch, we drove north on US-101 and WA-20 until we reached the ferry landing for the ride to Whidbey Island. We knew there was a departure at 1445 but didn't expect to make it onboard without a reservation. However, we bought our ticket (1440) and were the very last car loaded - the ship ("Kennewick") left almost immediately after we were parked. We braved the cold, rainy weather and watched Port Townsend recede behind us and then moved to the front of the ferry for the rest of the trip. We saw several (harbor?) porpoises that seemed to be following us - at least until they saw the ferry going in the opposite direction. After that, the trip was very quick - probably less than 30 minutes from drive on until we were in our car for the exit. Hoping the ferries that take us into the San Juans are away from shore long enough so we can spot some Orcas... Mollie wanted another NPS Passport Stamp so we explored the Ebey's Landing NHR near Coupeville. It was raining a lot so we didn't walk much nearby (or take many pictures). However, we did get to see the pretty beach and explored the historic homestead of Colonel Ebey, who settled the area in the early 1850s, despite a steady drizzle. After a few stops, we figured out that we needed to go into town to get the stamp. We parked near the harbor and found a little visitors center where we learned more about the area. We then stopped at Kapaws Iskreme (1615) for delicious bowls of ice cream, which we ate while we walked along the pier. There were huge amounts of mussels that were visible during the low tide - we'd been seeing people shell fishing all morning but had no idea there were so many so close! Also at the pier, we saw a display in the Coupeville Wharf building that described the destruction of the once large group of the Southern Resident family of Orcas. After reading about them and tracking their activities since we first started thinking about this trip., it was horrifying to learn that nearly 70 of the killer whales were killed or removed from the Salish Sea between about 1966 and 1976. Bounty hunters apparently sought any calves they could find to sell to Aquariums (including Sea World) around the world and killed the parents along the way. Even then, they usually only captured one or two whales after chasing 5-7 at a time with explosives (!!!) while the rest drowned. As a result of the carnage, there are now less than 75 orca left in the group. Even worse, no whale has even approached Penn Cove, where we were standing, since a whole pod was "removed" in 1970. Quite depressing overall - but we gained a new appreciation for the whales that are left and hope to see some soon. We drove a short distance and found our lodging at the Navy Lodge at NAS Whidbey (after getting turned around between the main base and the base housing area). We did laundry (first time during the whole trip) immediately after checking into our room (1830). Mollie borrowed a movie (“Thor”) from the Front Desk and I went shopping at the Commissary (finished at 1815). When I got back, Mollie cooked us dinner (macaroni and cheese, green) in the room and we watched TV. Bedtime was at 2230. We're all settled in for our last few days in the PNW!

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 11

Olympic NP - Day 3! We both woke up at 0530 and ate breakfast at the hotel but didn’t leave the room until 0730. I'd actually asked to extend our stay for another night in the Econo Lodge so we left most of our stuff behind.  We initially drove to some nearby stables (Red Hawk) to try to set up horseback riding but they were closed. I left phone message, trying to set something up before we left the area, and we instead decided to head towards Olympic National Park. It was overcast again, with a forecast for rain, and we drove up to Hurricane Ridge through thick fog and low clouds. Fortunately, the temps were still comfortable (mid 50s). We were pleasantly surprised to see a group of Olympic Marmots and large herd of mule deer near the Visitors Center on top of the ridge (elevation about one mile above sea level). We explored the Visitors Center, bought some souvenirs (1020) and walked a bit together. However, Mollie decided that she wanted to stay in the car while I walked around the local trails alone. There were some spectacular views of the snowcapped mountains to the south (I could see them occasionally when they emerged from the mist). To the north, I could see the San Juans and Vancouver Island sometimes and there was even a bit of sun now and then. Most of the path was paved but I soon found a longer trail (gravel, dirt) that climbed even higher. Had a close encounter with fearless deer there (wow!) and took the trail as far as I could, mindful that Mollie was waiting for the next activity, and clambered over a snow field to reach the car. By then, the parking lot was packed with people so we headed back down the mountain. It occurred to me several times that would be so great to be able to drive out of town after work each day and enjoy this place. We both started to scheme about future options... We drove back into Port Angeles and got some gas (1320). After finding a place to park near the wharf, we visited to the Feiro Marine Life Center (1330). We got to touch huge starfish, California Sea Cucumbers and sea urchins. The staff was very nice and we had the place almost completely to ourselves. After walking around a bit on the City Pier, we drove out to Ediz Hook to view the harbor and look for wildlife. We saw more sneaky seals through our binoculars and Mollie was almost sure she saw (and photographed) a tufted puffin. We next got lunch at Little Caesars (1510) and ate our pizza in the car as we drove east towards our "headquarters" in Sequim (pronounced "Squim"). The weather improved a lot and we decided to stop at another cool place to walk and look for wildlife: Dungeness Spit (Eileen had told me this was a "don't miss" place). The trail in the National Wildlife Refuge started out in the trees but quickly opened up to a beautiful vista that looked out on the Salish Sea and across to Canada - we walked along the long, sandy peninsula, enjoying the views of the Victoria (BC) skyline and watching waves that rolled across the beach like a barrel or tube. The tide was coming in so we only ventured half way out before turning around. The sun was shining by then and we decided not to end the visit after the hike was done. Instead, we drove along the coast all the way back to town, looking out on the interesting scenery to our north (i.e., Whidbey Island). The best thoughts of all were that we’d be there by the following evening. Before returning to the hotel, I took Mollie to the John Wayne Marina in Sequim and, after an hour of waiting and repositioning, found her some more wild animals (highlight was a sea otter!). We ate dinner (snacks) at the Econo Lodge. Mollie wrote post cards in the evening and we watched TV. Mollie continued exchanging texts with her school friend, Rano, who was staying with her grandparents 60 miles to the south - perhaps we can visit with them before we leave! We went to bed at 2230.

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 10

Olympic NP - Day 2! We actually slept late (0730) and barely had time to eat breakfast in the hotel before checking out (0800). I called the Rain Forest Horse Rides stable to set up ride but found out they had gone out of business. Since we had some “free time”, Mollie helped me make the decision about destinations. Since we only had a short time to enjoy the beach yesterday, she asked to return (but at a new spot). We were on the road at around 0845 and stopped to pick up a "Ocean Stewards" Junior Ranger book at the Hurricane Ridge NPS Visitors Center. We then took US-101 to WA-112 and drove all the way to the northwest corner of Washington state. It was a curvy, rough road but we had some spectacular views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Vancouver Island. When we reached the Makah Reservation, we got a "recreation permit" (1100) and then proceeded through the rather large reservation until we reached the parking lot for Shi Shi Beach Trail. We had to walk about half a mile to the trailhead but, despite misty weather (with a threat of rain), we ventured into the rain forest... It was really muddy for the nearly two miles (each way) to the northern border of Olympic National Park but the view at the end of the trail was worth the effort. There were pretty views down the coast, tons of salmonberries ripening, playful seals popping their heads above the water, a true feeling of remoteness. Mollie and I had a “trail tiff” and she headed back alone. I didn’t rush to catch her and we eventually met up at the trailhead (with help from some other hikers who told me where she’d be). We ate lunch (snacks) after we reached our car and drove a short distance to the Makah Fish Hatchery - we didn't get to see very much of interest (no fish) but had a nice walk. In the same area, we explored a park with native art (totem poles). Our next stop was the Cape Trail. Mollie decided to work on her Junior Ranger workbook while I walked out to Cape Flattery. This trail was much shorter (around a mile each way) but the view of the ocean was amazing. Lots of cool caves, a pretty lighthouse on an island, visible ocean currents, nesting cormorants and (I think) a sea lion pup on the rocks. Got lots of steps on our pedometers while we were in the area so we treated ourselves to some ice cream at 1980s prices, for some reason (1430). We then headed back to the east, stopping occasionally to look for whales, otters, seals and sea lions. We found a nice beach where we were able to skip rocks. While we were there, we ran into a local couple who lived in Neah Bay (on the Reservation) and had a good talk with them about life in the PNW. By the end of the day, we agreed that we were very glad that we ventured away from the busy tourist areas! On the way to our next hotel, we stopped in Port Angeles and ate a delicious (fancy) dinner at the Crab House (in the Red Lion Hotel) on the waterfront, finishing at 1930. Afterwards, we walked on the piers and then went to our hotel (an Econo Lodge) in the nearby town of Sequim. While checking into our room, we got directions from the clerk in the lobby for how to spot sea otters at the John Wayne Marina. Later, we watched TV and went to bed at 2230.

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 9

Olympic NP - Day 1! We were awake by 0700 and, after breakfast at the hotel, we went for a walk. It was a great morning for a walk by the seaside! Our hotel, "Hi Tide” was located right on a paved pathway called the Promenade and, as a result, we got to easily access the amazing tidal flats and weather. First, we walked back and forth on the path, looking at the many picturesque homes with an oceanfront view. We then took off our shoes and walked out into the shallow water, where we found some good sand dollars. The tide was out and we walked happily for over an hour in the bright sun. Mollie said she was sad to be leaving the Oregon Coast... We departed Seaside at around 1000 and stopped at Walmart in nearby Warrenton for supplies (1035). Back on the road again soon afterwards, heading into Astoria. While we were driving, Mollie told me she had been elected president of the Book Club. She also emailed with my Dad (to tell him about our trip in Oregon). She talked a lot about possibly attending Oregon State University in the future... After crossing the Columbia River and making a few short stops (Washington's oldest fish hatchery, chasing elusive seals that were popping their heads up and down in South Bend), we took a break in a pretty seaside town (Westport) on Grays Harbor and explored the waterfront. My friend, Eileen, had told me about this place since she had done contract work there for the Army Corps of Engineers. When we arrived, we ate lunch (snacks) in the car and then took a walk. It was a bit overcast but the pleasant temps (60s) were still awesome. Some of the highlights we enjoyed included: walking the docks to watch crabbers and fishermen, climbing the overlook to see the ocean and across the whole bay, searching for souvenirs in a huge gift shop and watching the sneaky harbor seals who were "stealing" crabs from the traps. They were very clever and we had fun watching them pop their heads out and then appear elsewhere, leaving behind nothing but frustration for the crabbers. Some of the humans got lucky with Dungeness and Rock catches but others were clearly annoyed (we silently chuckled at the whole scene). We could have stayed for hours but decided to continue north for more fun. After passing Grays Harbor, I asked Mollie about going for a horseback ride but she passed on the opportunity. We used US-101 to get to the southeastern corner of Olympic National Park. We explored the National Fish Hatchery area near the Quinault Indian Reservation (again, didn't see any fish...) and then enjoyed some time on the beach near the Pacific Coast entrance of Olympic National Park. Mollie got her Passport Stamped just as they were closing the Ranger Station there (1700). The scenery along the coast was beautiful and the extended day of driving was worth the effort because it set us up for a new base of operations. In Forks, we picked up dinner, "gas station sandwiches" from Queets Trading Post, while filling up the gas tank (1630) and ate our meal as we continued north. As a result of our morning beach walk, we were not able to visit Hoh Rain Forest (because of limited time) and weren't allowed to stop at Lake Crescent due to significant road construction. Still, we made it to Port Angeles with clear skies and lots of plans for the following day. We checked into our hotel (Super 8) and ended up watching TV until going to bed (2300).

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 8

We got up at 0545 so we could go walking on the beach. Took advantage of the low tide near sunrise and walked the flats south of Gold Beach. It was COLD but less windy than yesterday. We ate breakfast (snacks) before we checked out of the hotel (Motel 101) by 0700. We were headed north on US-101 by 0630 and were fortunate not to encounter a lot of traffic for the first few hours. Stopped to see a lighthouse at Cape Blanco, explored cranberry bogs and sheep farms surrounding the New River Area of Critical Environmental Concern (near Bandon), walked the sand in the southern end of the Oregon Dunes (just north of Coos Bay) and visited the Umpqua Light House. The day was cloudless and pleasant (60s) and there weren't many people around, allowing for peaceful reflection in this pretty area. Several times, I felt like I was home on Cape Cod - but then we'd pass a huge, rocky bluff and I'd remember how far away we really were... It was a very pleasant drive. Had some serious deja vu in several places. When my own family last journeyed north on the Pacific Coast (around 35 years ago), I was Mollie's age. It was amazing to see so many familiar things and be able to point them out to Mollie (along with the story). One thing I'd definitely planned on was a visit to the Oregon Caves, just past Florence (OR), and we arrived there by 1100. Mollie loves animals, especially the ones we get to see in the wild, and I knew she would like this cave better than all the previous ones - I was not wrong! I purchased tickets for us to enter the cave but we spent a lot of time on the high bluff, watching the ocean below. We saw huge numbers of sea lions basking along the shore, gray whales spouting in the waves, cormorants diving and soaring, and seagulls guarding their grey-speckled brood in the rocks of the cliffs. Of course we also explored the cave and bought lots of souvenirs... Could not ask for a better memory with Mollie! We got back in the car after about an hour at the attraction and the purchase of some great souvenirs (1220) and drove north. In Newport (1330), we ate lunch (McDonalds). Around that same time, we passed a little resort on the ocean where my parents had stayed in the 1960s (appropriately named "Cape Cod Cottages"). A bit later, we passed the beginning of US-20 and a sign that said we were only 3,360 miles from Boston - I'll bet THAT would be an interesting drive! Mollie texted a picture of the sign to my dad and they ended up communicating a lot about Oregon over the next few days. In the little town of Depoe Bay (more deja vu), we were treated with more whale sightings in the harbor (close to shore!) from a high platform the Whale Watching Center. On the other side of the street (innner harbor), we also saw harbor seals sunning on the rocks and "performing" tricks for the tourists. At 1420, we ate some ice cream (locally produced) and headed north again. By then, we were running behind our original schedule and were running low on gas so we didn’t make any major stops (except to get the needed fuel, which we purchased in the town of Tillamook at 1445) for most of the afternoon. This included passing up a visit to the Tillamook Creamery (we were sad), several good beaches and some hiking trails. When we reached the coastal area near Cannon Beach, we initially drove into town, planning to visit Haystack Rock, but it was so busy that we decided instead to look around in Ecola State Park (related to the Lewis and Clark Expedition). Mollie decided (just before we reached the entrance) that she didn’t want to miss out on another NPS Passport Stamp so I left the State Park and backtracked to US-101. We continued north and Mollie helped me a lot by making a hotel reservation (at the Hi Tide Oceanfront Inn in Seaside) herself, complete with Google search, several phone calls and use of a credit card over the phone. After that was done, we continued to Fort Clatsop (near Astoria) and toured the reconstructed fort there. We learned lots of good history and we felt (especially after seeing their signs across the Plains and Mountain states for the past 10 years) like we'd finally arrived at the end of their journey to the Pacific with them! Since the Visitors Center closed soon after we arrived (1700), we had to leave the main parking lot almost immediately. We took a nature walk in the nearby Netul Landing and then returned to beautiful Seaside and checked into our hotel. We went shopping at Safeway (1855) and picked up supplies and food. Back in our room, Mollie cooked some dinner (macaroni and cheese, hot dogs and green beans). We borrowed a movie (“School of Rock”) from the Front Desk and watched it until bed time (2230). As we have a few other times on this trip, we slept with the windows open (no AC) - nice!

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 7

We were awake by 0600 and, after breakfast at the hotel (0645), we drove north to Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park so Mollie could get her Junior Ranger badge. While there, we drove up the Cal-Barrel Scenic Road, hiked on the Rhododendron Trail and other interpretive trails, and saw three bull elks and four mule deer near the road. The whole park was covered with a thick layer of mist/fog and the temps were in the mid 50s. I took a short hike on the Coastal Trail but couldn't see the ocean from the high bluff. We were fortunate to see plenty of wildlife: a snail, a banana slug, Steller's Jays, pelicans and ground squirrels. After a few hours enjoying the park (Mollie didn't want to leave at all), we drove north on US-101. We enjoyed some better visibility while exploring the Klamath River area (amazing views) and stopped for a visit at the Yurok Nation complex. We got gas, postcard stamps and lunch (Chester’s Chicken) there (1150)and then continued north. Eventually, we reached Crescent City and decided to visit Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. Mollie wanted to get a Redwoods jacket and we picked up other souvenirs (1230). While we were at this park, we took a nice walk on a trail along the Smith River. There were plenty of redwood trees, pretty camp sites, clear water and skipping stones. We were sad to leave the majestic trees after two amazing days - Mollie noted that she was going to "miss the awesome smell". The next phase of our Dad-Daughter Adventure began later in the afternoon as we entered Oregon again on US-101. We stopped several times as we made our way north: walking the sand at Whaleshead Beach, snapping photos from high bluffs above Arch Rock and Cape Sebastian. It was sunny and pleasant (mid 60s) but VERY windy (we got sand blasted near the rolling waves). One memorable moment was when we watched a silly seagull (our ubiquitous friend, "Sam') walking slowly and deliberately along the shore - seemingly without a care in the world - while the sea swirled violently only feet away... By the time we reached Gold Beach ("Where the Rogue River Meets the Ocean"), we decided to stop driving for the night. We explored the little town, picking up souvenirs (1745) and scouting out places to watch the sunset. In our hotel room (at the Motel 101), we ate dinner (snacks) and then went out again to watch the sunset (2055). Mollie posted on Facebook: "Dad and I got to relax and watch the sunset to end Day 7! It was a rather brisk evening, I must say, and the clouds made the sunset shorter than it could have been, but it was still really nice. The overlook was only a short distance away from our hotel, so we were able to pop in and out without much trouble. I hope we can see more sunsets, hopefully when there are fewer clouds in the sky!" Back in our room again, Mollie and I talked to Chuck on the phone about upcoming Thanksgiving plans. We watched TV and went to bed at around 2200. Life is good!

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 6

We woke up at 0615 and ate breakfast at the hotel before checking out (0645). We were on the road by 0700, trying to escape the 100+ degree temps that were expected. As we had the previous evening, we followed CA-299 to the west and made our first stop at the Whiskeytown NRA in the hills near Reading. Mollie wanted to get a stamp for her passport but the Visitors Center didn't open until 1000. While waiting, we explored all the beaches and marinas along the pretty lake. I was happy that we had enough time to hike a majority of the Davis Gulch Trail, especially since the heat came early. The Visitors Center ended up opening "early" (0930) and, once we had our stamp, we drove to the north of the reservoir and headed into the mountains, bound for the Pacific! Mollie posted on Facebook: "After driving through the mountains that follow the Trinity River for a while, we decided to stop for lunch in the town of Willow Creek (which, for anyone who was wondering, is full of Bigfoot enthusiasts). The place had Bigfoot signs, sculptures, etc. We found a nice little restaurant for lunch (Pizza Factory), and took a relaxing break, planning for the next few days of our trip." Just after noon, we got back on the road. We made one stop (bathroom break) and avoided most of the worst construction zones. After several hours in the mountains, we finally reached US-101 near Arcata. This road will be the focal point of much of our trip so we were happy to finally see the Pacific Ocean waves! We drove north until we came to the Redwood National Park (merged with the California State Parks in the area). We stopped at a nice Visitors Center on the beach to get information and learned about a Ranger Program called "Appreciating the Trees" that was going to start at 1500. After filling up the tank at an ancient pump in Orick (1345), we stopped by the nearby State Park so Mollie could get an NPS Stamp and buy souvenirs (1430). We also wanted to learn about the amazing red giants that surrounded us during the drive. The NPS Ranger talk/walk took about 60 minutes and we received an amazing crash course in the history of these rare trees and steps that have been taken to preserve them over the last 100 years. After the "official" hike was done, we walked the rest of the forest loop trail (around 2.5 miles total). The weather was so great - sunny and 65 degrees in the afternoon. We next drove (via gravel road) to visit Gold Bluff Beach and walked close to the waves. A heavy fog rolled into the area so we backtracked towards US-101. Before leaving the park we were treated to a whole herd of elk, right next to the road. Mollie told me this was a "great day" and I agree! We ate dinner (snacks) in the car and then went back to Arcata and checked into our hotel (Super 8). Mollie caught up on her journal notes and wrote more post cards. After a bit of TV and reading, we went to bed (2230).

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 5

We got up at 0600 and Mollie wrote post cards to Grandpa Jim, Gaga and PawPaw, Cousin Bonnie and Erin & Brenna (I showed her how to address the letters). She also caught up on her trip notes. While eating breakfast (hotel), we talked about Summer Vacation options for the coming year. After checking out of our hotel (Holiday Inn Express), we left Klamath Falls (0700). In a nearby parking lot, we saw a Google Maps car as we were leaving town. One of my genealogy friends/relatives told us she had a niece who worked at the Lava Beds National Monument and we tried to coordinate a visit with her (it didn’t work out). We enjoyed another beautiful day of clear skies! It was another beautiful day but the forecast called for temps over 100 degrees in the Valley, so we sought cooler air at higher elevations. On the way to the Lava Beds, we enjoyed our drive through the area around Tule Lake (included the National Wildlife Refuge). We arrived before the park was open and were able to take short walks among a few volcanic formations (Fleener Chimneys, the entrance to Merrill Cave) with no other visitors. A highlight for me was a climb up to the top of Schonchin Butte - from there, it was possible to see for many miles in all directions (and there were info boards for major landmarks). Once I got back to the car (where Mollie was journaling the trip), we went to the Visitors Center and got another NPS Stamp. We also "screened" for cave exploration (and had to clean our shoes because of our visit to Oregon Caves). This allowed us to go into a few caves on the loop nearby (our favorite was the Hopkins Chocolate and the nearby Garden Bridges). After seeing everything in the main area of the park, we drove over to the Petroglyph Section, where we climbed the bluff, watched swallows flying to/from their nests in the holes on the bluff face, and saw a few of the interesting images left behind by early residents of the area. We looked for a post office nearby but all of them had closed early for a Saturday. Because of the huge distances between gas stations, we filled up in Tulelake (1145) before heading south on CA-139 (Volcanic Legacy Trail). The scenery was initially very flat and arid but eventually started getting hilly. We ate lunch (snacks) in the car and took a bathroom break at Modoc National Forest site (amazing alpine smells and warm sunny spots on beds of pine needles). Mollie became inquisitive when we had to drive through an Inspection (immigration?) Station. We also had some funny farm equipment encounters on the highway. In Adin, we switched to CA-299 and, later, CA-89. To be safe, I got gas again in the town of Bieber (1330). After several hours on roads in the northeastern corner of California (treated to amazing views of Shasta), we arrived at our next destination: Lassen Volcanic National Park. We had stayed under 70 degrees all day and it got even better as we climbed over 8500 feet of elevation, until we arrived at the base of the volcano. At the Visitors Center near Manzanita Lake, Mollie had figured out that she could get a free bandana (with a map of the park) if we completed three hikes during our visit. This, of course, required a whirlwind tour of the park - north to south on the main road - but we managed to get everything (Emigrant Trail, Devastated Area Trail and Paradise Meadows Trail). We arrived at the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitors Center (southern end of the park) just before they closed (1655) and Mollie got her bandanna and some souvenirs. While there, one of the rangers seemed frantically distracted and she told us “they are evacuating”. It didn’t make much sense until, while driving back to the north (stopping at Sulphur Works, Bumpass Trailhead and Manzanita Lake) we saw the thin wisps of forest fire smoke to the south. We departed to the west from the north end of the park (near Manzanita Lake on CA-89). I’d initially considered exiting to the south but had already decided against it - that turned out to be good because the forest fire cloud was huge (almost an anvil) by the time we reached Redding (via CA-44). At that point, it was also over 100 degrees in the Sacramento River Valley (less than 1000 foot elevation). Luckily, we had planned to avoid the heat again (the following day) by driving towards the Coast. We ate dinner (snacks) in the room and spent the rest of the (scorching hot) evening watching TV and reading in our hotel room (Rodeway Inn). Went to bed at 2200. Another great day!

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 4

Today was really special! We'd planned to visit Crater Lake National Park when we developed our itinerary a few months ago and could not have been luckier with the weather. We were up early (0500), ate an early breakfast at our hotel (Days Inn) and left Medford at 0630, driving east on OR-62 through "canyons" of huge alpine trees. We got some good views of the Rogue River too. We reached the entrance so early there wasn't anyone at the fare gate. Of course, almost nothing else was open either, although we were lucky enough to be able to get gas at Mazama Village Campground (0745). The slow pace of things didn't stop us from enjoying the beautiful view of the deep blue lake and surrounding peaks. There was still a lot of snow and many activities had not even begun for the season. Temps started in the mid 40s and only reached 60 while we were visiting. We explored the scenery with almost no other guests - it was heaven. At first, we were going to wait for the Visitors Center on the Rim to open. But after a while (just after I sat down in a rocking chair on the back porch of the Lodge), Mollie said to me "we can't sit here - there is too much to do!" So we headed back down to the main Entrance and went to a Visitors Center that was open. There, we got souvenirs (0930) and watched a park video and got Mollie started on her Junior Ranger badge. We decided to drive the entire 33 miles of Rim Drive (starting on the east side). We took nature walks at Vidae Falls and Pinnacles Overlook (saw a marmot with a mouth full of pine needles) and enjoyed some amazing views of the Klamath Valley, Mount McLoughlan and Mount Shasta. We later detoured north of the Rim to visit the Pumice Desert. While there, we also got to hike a few more miles of PCT. From what I've seen so far, the trail is much more smooth and deliberately routed than the AT. Mollie told me she wanted me to complete the whole thing on horse back with her after I retire... After a about an hour north of the lake we returned to the Rim Drive. It had gotten so crowded by that time that traffic had started to suck - we could barely find a parking place anywhere on the west side of the crater. So, after Mollie got her NPS passport stamp and Junior Ranger pin (1400), we decided to leave. We departed to the southeast (OR-62 to US-97) and stopped a few more times to see the sites. As we made our way into the Valley, Mollie told me she was very impressed with the farm/ranch lands, along with the helpful signs that pointed out local landmarks. During most of our drive, we were "escorted" (read: passed) by many vintage Porche autos that were checking their engines on the flat open land. Our little Nissan Versa was no match, obviously... We eventually made our way past Upper Klamath Lake (pretty) and into Klamath Falls. From Mollie's Facebook: "Upon arriving in town, we checked into our hotel (Holiday Inn Express) and asked for recommendations from the concierge, who pulled out a big map for us. Dad asked about where we could see the Klamath Falls, and we were disappointed to learn that there haven't been falls since the 1920s, and that they are now rapids. Regardless, we went out to find them. However, before we did that, we picked up our dinner from a little coffee shop/deli called "A Leap of Taste" (1730). I ordered the pizza sandwich with aged provolone, pepperoni, and calamata olive tapanade on rye and Dad ordered the #1, a complex turkey and sweet coppa salami, marco polo jack cheese, organic greens, and tomato sandwich on jewish rye and two bags of kettle chips. We enjoyed them in our car in the parking lot of the Link River Nature Trail, and were delighted to find that we had been given small paper cups with orange slices and a piece of dark chocolate. We walked it off on the Link River Nature Trail, which revealed the remnants of the Klamath Falls that had been taken out by the construction of a dam. The trail was short, and we only walked to the dam before we turned around and walked back toward the car. After our walk, we made a quick stop at the Walmart to pick up some supplies for the car, and headed back to the hotel. It was a nice way to end the long day! Wildlife encounters: an egret from across the river, a red-winged black bird defending her nest (she hovered really close to us), and a cormorant flying over the water." Afterwards, we stopped at Walmart (1930) and picked up some more supplies before heading back to the room. We watched TV and read until we went to bed (2200).

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 3

We both got up at 0530 and found the weather outside was still quite pleasant. Sleeping with the windows open had worked out great - the air was chilly but you can't beat the mountain air and sounds for a restful sleep! We'd arrived at our lodging within the Oregon Caves National Monument late on the previous evening (just before sunset) and immediately were impressed! The Chateau (hotel) was a six story alpine lodge, built in the 1930s, hidden in a cell phone and internet free zone. It was located just across the parking lot from a cave I'd last visited with my family over 30 years ago. Our room was located just above a waterfall in front of the building: the River Styx exits the cave and flows down towards the ocean from there. Mollie wrote a flowery entry in the room composition notebook (guests left their comments). I checked us out of the Chateau (0645) and we ate a hearty breakfast in the Chateau Cafe (finished at 0740). Raring to get started with our day, we headed over to the Visitors Center. It wasn’t open yet so we took a walk on the Cliff Nature Trail - we were treated to amazing views of the Illinois Valley below. When the Visitors Center opened (0830), we checked in for our cave tour (I'd reserved spots months earlier but there was a SNAFU with payment) and heard about lots of White Nose Syndrome concerns for the bats. At 0900, we started our tour of the Caves (with rangers this time!) and had a great time. After we finished our spelunking, Mollie was sworn in with another Junior Ranger badge (she got a "bat badge” this time). It was a very special visit! We picked up some souvenirs (1055) and then departed to the north (on US-199),). Again, we searched (unsuccessfully) for a Fish Hatchery - this type of stop has become sort of a joke between me and Mollie because I always want to go to them but we almost never see any fish... Throughout the day, Mollie and I had some great talks. At around 1300, we found a good place to stay in Medford and checked into the hotel early. We ate lunch (snacks) in the room. After a short break, we drove out to visit Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, a relatively new part of the NPS system. We parked first at the Green Springs Summit and hiked for about a half mile (round trip) on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). When we finished, we noticed a gravel road to another PCT trailhead and repositioned there. We then took a hike for about a mile to the Hobart Bluff spur trail and found some beautiful views of the entire area - we could see well into Northern California (including Mount Shasta), the Emigrant Lake and Klamath areas. Total PCT hiking distance today was about three miles - can’t beat the long days, mountain air and beautiful skies! We backtracked to Medford and enjoyed a good dinner at In-N-Out Burger (1950). From Mollie's Facebook post: "I went to In-N-Out Burger for the first time! We got there when there was no line, but that changed pretty soon after. All in all, this place isn't bad. We got a decent amount of food for $10. None of it was bad, but the burgers were only average. I loved their chocolate shake, and their fries were nice and crispy. This was a great way to end our day!" Back at the hotel (Days Inn) by 2100, we watched TV, made phone calls and went to bed at 2230.

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 2

I woke up at 0415 (pesky East Coast time...) and did some more repacking. Mollie was still asleep so I drove to Walmart (Woodland, WA) to buy supplies. I had to wait for them to open at 0600 but eventually got everything we needed - I even found a new motion sickness medicine made with "essential oils" and Mollie ended up really liking it. Was finished shopping at 0620 and, back at the hotel, I ate breakfast with Mollie. We then packed the car and checked out of the hotel (Rodeway Inn) at 0645. We were on our way less than 15 minutes later, heading east with high expectations so we could get a look at the terrain near the world famous volcano, Mount St. Helens! We used WA-503 (and the Spur east of Yale) to get to southern end of National Park area. We stopped at Yale Park (boat launch on Lewis River) for pretty photos and then used FS-83 to reach the Ape Cave, which we'd found in the Atlas and learned more about on Google. The cave was a nearly two mile lava tube (underground) south of the volcano peak. By 0900, we had parked and, armed with two headlamps and two flashlights, we went walking into the Lava Tubes. Mollie was nervous at first about being in the dark, bats and Bigfoot but she did well inside the pitch black (and chilly) environment. We encountered a young couple that was coming out of the tube and they made Mollie feel better. The Lower Tube was about 0.75 miles long but we turned around by the half mile mark. We met up with a solo hiker on the way back and found even more people at the entrance. I'm very proud of Mollie for fighting through her hesitation and completing the unique hike. It was getting warm by the time we reached our car again and we headed back to FS-83 and drove further east (to the end of the road), stopping for lots of photos of the south side of the volcano. I'd last visited in 1984, when the damage from the 1980 eruption was stark and extensive. Almost 40 years later, there is much less evidence of disaster and the mountain looked rather serene... At Lava Canyon, we took a nature hike to see the falls and learned a lot about the various eruptions over the years. We saw a mama and baby deer. It was getting much hotter by then so we decided to head back towards civilization. Glad we detoured out this way! By 1000, we were on our way back towards I-5, using WA-503 (construction) and US-12. Mollie did manage to get a National Forest stamp at the Gifford-Pinchot National Forest Office. We drove down towards the Columbia River and, just before we left the state of Washington, located Fort Vancouver National Historic Site. Mollie got a NPS Passport stamp and we walked around the "living history" site, a reconstructed palisade and trapper camp for the Hudson Bay Company. We learned a lot about the fur trade and the history of Oregon Territory. The HBC made millions of dollars from the fur trade in the early Nineteenth Century at this location and we learned about the Company's trapping, packing, shipping (18000 mile journey), and European Clothing manufacturing activities. This place was almost part of Canada but it is now about half way between the start and finish of our adventure in the US Pacific Northwest! Once we'd had our fill of the park, we drove back to I-5 and crossed the river into Oregon. We got gas in Portland (1325) - they were alarmed that I had tried to pump my own fuel but the law had been changed recently to allow it. We encountered a lot of traffic on I-5 on the way through town. Mollie not a fan of the atmosphere in the city - there were a lot of homeless people, prevalent weed use (and billboards), along with high gas prices. We ate our lunch (snacks) in the car and drove east on I-84 into the Columbia River Gorge. We got a really good view of Mount Hood. Mollie spotted a dead beaver on the side of the road. We stopped at (busy) Multnomah Falls and took pictures, got ice cream and another NPS stamp. We then backtracked to I-205 and (after a lot more traffic) eventually got moving again south of Salem. We drove all the way to Grants Pass without stopping. We listened to a lot of XM radio (free in our rental car) and talked a lot about life and current events. Erin called to hear about our adventure. Once off the interstate, we tried to get food at In & Out Burger (too busy) but settled for some chicken strips and fries when I stopped for gas (1915). After a short break, we used WA-99 and US-199 to drive to Cave Junction. We then took WA-46 to the south to reach the Oregon Caves Chateau (arrived at 2000). On the way, we saw two deer. After we checked in, Mollie called Nicky on the courtesy phone (we had no internet or cell service) and we explored the property. We wrapped up the day by relaxing in our room (window open, cool air, pretty waterfall) before going to bed at 2200. It was so pleasant that we slept with the window open!

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 1

[I woke Mollie up at 0345 and we got ready to leave - we didn’t eat breakfast and went outside at 0415 - the taxi (Yellow Cab) was late but we made it to National Airport by 0445 and got through security and to the gate by 0530 - I checked my carry-on, thinking I’d get it back in Chicago (I didn’t) and we took off on time (0605) - the snack was Stroopwafel (Mollie loved that) - a little kid was sitting in the parent's lap next to us and Mollie liked that - after landing at 0700 (local), Mollie went (by herself) to get a snack and found me soon afterwards - we learned there would be a two hour delay when we arrived at the gate (maintenance problem) - we were in good spirits so didn’t worry and read/talked while we waited - soon, we learned that the replacement airplane was delayed due to weather - Mollie asked me to get her food so I bought early lunch (sandwiches) at Eli's Cheesecake (0720) - even after we boarded (1000 local), we had to wait another hour for fuel - eventually, we took United to SEA (free direct tv as United's way of saying "sorry for the delay") - Buddhist monks all around us - saw lots of pretty snow-capped mountains, along with Mount Rainier, on the way - arrived at 1230 (local) - got bags quickly - took airport shuttle to nearby Marriott - Mollie commented that the whole flight experience was much better than she remembered and I told her I was proud of her for being so agreeable, cooperative and flexible - we got our rental car at Hertz (1330) - drove the Nissan Versa (we decided to call it “Zippy”) from SeaTac to I-5, then WA-512 - lunch at Wendy’s (South Tacoma) at 1420 - then WA-7 to Elbe and WA-706 to Nisqually Entrance of Rainier National Park - we got a NPS stamp at Longmire Museum (around 1600) - backtracked to Elbe - used WA-7 to US-12 and then got on I-5 again - we stopped at a rest area for maps (gave money to a guy who "needed gas" - continued on I-5 to WA-504 - drove to Mount St. Helens Visitors Center (closed) and took nature walk (1.0 miles) on boardwalk with view of mountain - Mollie saw a black and yellow snake and tried out her new camera tripod - backtracked to I-5 and saw the Columbia River lumber yards; as we continued south - we got off at Woodland and found the hotel, Rodeway Inn (we had a reservation) - the gas prices so high everywhere! - in our room, we relaxed (watching TV) and repacked bags - went to bed at 2115 local (tired)]

Captain, VA (USA)

I'd been dying to get away from home for a hike for months and, despite the forecasted higher temperatures, I made the decision to drive south to a hiking zone near Virginia Tech. I left my house at 0500 and used I-66 and I-81. On the way, I got gas (Pilot) and breakfast (Wendy's) at 0730. Made good time to the trailhead at VA-601 (Rocky Gap Trail). Left my car, headed, SOBO, at 0930. This was a tough section because it dropped significantly into a deep valley and then climbed up the other side soon afterwards (all within five miles). It was warm but the shade was very nice in the woods. Saw a few deer (including a mother and baby, walking ahead of me without fear) and many pretty flowers throughout the day. Also encountered 12 thru hikers, one of whom was an ND Graduate (Class of '68) who said he'd taken over the NOBO trek for his son who had a family emergency. I didn't talk much with any of them because everyone was trying to minimize the impact of the heat. After a tough climb, I turned around at Lone Pine Peak and headed back down into the valley. I encountered some of the thru hikers again at the War Branch Shelter but kept going. However, by the time I reached VA-632, I was feeling the effects of the heat and considered whether I should stop for a rest. I didn't but worked on an "escape plan", if needed. This was actually the same weekend (two years removed) when I was hit by a bad bout of dehydration and needed to be rescued, so I was quite aware of the symptoms that I needed to spot to avoid another problem. After about a two mile climb (out of three) towards my car, I hit a brick wall, in terms of fatigue, muscle cramps and effectiveness of the food and water I did have. With my head still clear and with the lessons learned previously, I made the decision to backtrack downhill to the road (where I'd seen a tent and car parked). Some hikers shared trail magic (advice and fruit snacks) and I got down without incident. Then it was just a matter of waiting for a local driver to come by so that I could get a ride back to my car. Unfortunately, the delay was significant and I actually ran out of water. This was a bit alarming, since I'd started with three liters, so I decided to walk towards a nearby town that was visible down the road. There were lots of friendly cows along the fences, big shade trees and all the little houses looked quite pleasant. When I encountered some locals, I told them about my dilemma and they provided a gallon of water. Believe me, it hit the spot. Still, I knew I needed to get out of the heat and asked about the distance to the top of the VA-601 ridge - they said it was a long way. So I went back to the trailhead on VA-632 to wait. I only saw one other hiker (who didn't stop) as I lay there in the buggy heat. Eventually, a Trail Angel (Travis) came by and gave me a ride. On the way back to my car, he told me stories about the many bears in the area and about rescuing a hiker with a broken leg during the winter. He also explained that he didn't worry about carrying lots of water because he brought beer! When I reached the AT parking area (1700), I was exhausted and sore after completing 14 miles (counting backtracks). It wasn't a satisfying day, in terms of AT miles, but I felt relieved (and very lucky) that I'd outmaneuvered the elements. As I was getting ready to leave, I met a hiker ("Mouse" and his German Shepherd) and we talked for a little while I recharged on sugar. Drove back towards NoVa after that, stopping several times for food and drink (Wendy's in Christiansburg at 1810) and gas (Sheetz in Mount Jackson at 2045) - I didn’t make it home until 10:30. New rule: don't go hiking in the mountains when it is hotter than 85 degrees! AT Today = 5.30 miles / Grand Total AT = 1128.89 miles

Arlington, VA (USA)

[work - Greta picked me up at work and drove us to Pentagon City - we had happy hour at Chevy's - she later drove me to Huntington Metro to get my car]

Mount Vernon, VA (USA)

[work in DC - Brady cancelled the happy hour so I took the Metro to Huntington - got a speeding ticket just as I was leaving the parking garage (grrr...) - drove down to Mount Vernon - using the George Washington Parkway, I drove an eight mile section back and forth in the Chrysler to get close to 250K miles - then home]

Washington, DC (USA)

[work - the girls had talked about meeting me in the city for dinner and a movie and I happily agreed - by 1545, they were ready to leave their house - they ended up driving because Erin could not find her Metro Card (“Mom has it”) - I met them at 1700 near the Navy Yard Metro Station and helped them with the parking situation - we walked down to The Salt Line Restaurant and had a really nice dinner - this was one of the first birthdays I’d spent with all three kids for as long as I could remember - they were really sweet, too, with presents (movie tickets, candy, hiking shirt) and an amazing card - I thanked them a lot and we enjoyed a good conversation about Summer Plans, my new job, friends and relatives - I actually learned a lot about Erin’s job, Brenna’s travel plans (to Harrisonburg for the weekend) and Mollie’s tough week of French tests - we finished eating at around 1820 and walked to Canal Park (while Erin moved the car) - we found some blankets in the car and set up for the movie (it didn’t end up starting until 2030, which kind of dampened the mood) - the girls got some special popcorn and we settled in with homework for Mollie and social media posting for the Twins - we enjoyed the film (“Jumanji: Welcome to the Jungle”) and stayed almost until the end - I showed Erin how to get home (lots of crazy drivers) - Erin suggested that we get together on or around Father’s Day - we made it to Nicky’s by 2300 and I took the Chrysler (and Mollie) home]

Washington, DC (USA)

[work - walked down to the District Wharf and ate lunch with Kelly at Mi Vida - we had the Sabores de Mexico, served family style - finished at 1320 walked back to the office - work - Tim F cancelled happy hour so I headed home early]

Arlington, VA (USA)

[work - Metro to Pentagon City - met up with David F. and Bill W. for happy hour at Sine - saw Jim L., Arnie S. and met Jere H. - done at around 1935 - home via Metro]