Summer Vacation Trip - Day 12

Olympic NP - Day 4! We got up at 0645 and ate breakfast at the hotel (Econo Lodge, Sequim). Mollie and I discussed Eileen’s YRQ results - Mollie was very interested and I added her to the Kayutuq group on Facebook. We then drove to the Red Hawk Stables (nearby), arriving at our scheduled time for the ride (0800). Inclement weather was forecasted for 1000 this morning so we had left our hotel early, hoping to be able to enjoy the special trail ride with a new company in Sequim. The owner (Elizabeth) told us she decided only two weeks ago to start providing trail rides with her five horses and we were some of the first paying customers. At around 0815, we left the stable on "Kona" (Jim) and "Rainy" (Mollie), along with our guide (Elizabeth on "Mustang") and her two dogs, Lucas and Grandma. We rode deep into the forest along the northeastern edge of ONP and had a great time, despite the thick overgrowth, misty weather and muddy conditions. We'd asked for an hour but probably got an extra half hour because there was no one else expected. Elizabeth told us that she was committed to buying rescue horses for her business and planned to increase her herd to 10+ horses over the coming year. We learned a lot about the locals, the annual weather and got some more ideas for future visits. At the very end of the ride, we saw a great view of the Cascades across the Sound (including the base of Mount Baker). However, it started raining pretty hard almost as soon as we got into our car (1000). On our way out of Sequim, we stopped one more time at John Wayne Marina (no otters this time). We then made our way on US-101 through the very eastern edge of the Park and the National Forest. This route also took us down the west coast of the Hood Canal to the town of Hoodsport, where we ate lunch (Model T Diner) with one of Mollie's school friends who is spending the summer with her grandparents in the area. It did stop raining while we were there but a strong breeze, coming in from the northwest, signaled incoming rain. We walked around in a small city market area before saying goodbye to Rano, her sister (Mimi) and her grandparents. In all of our travels during the four days we had to experience Olympic National Park, we very much enjoyed ourselves and started to look forward to another visit. After lunch, we drove north on US-101 and WA-20 until we reached the ferry landing for the ride to Whidbey Island. We knew there was a departure at 1445 but didn't expect to make it onboard without a reservation. However, we bought our ticket (1440) and were the very last car loaded - the ship ("Kennewick") left almost immediately after we were parked. We braved the cold, rainy weather and watched Port Townsend recede behind us and then moved to the front of the ferry for the rest of the trip. We saw several (harbor?) porpoises that seemed to be following us - at least until they saw the ferry going in the opposite direction. After that, the trip was very quick - probably less than 30 minutes from drive on until we were in our car for the exit. Hoping the ferries that take us into the San Juans are away from shore long enough so we can spot some Orcas... Mollie wanted another NPS Passport Stamp so we explored the Ebey's Landing NHR near Coupeville. It was raining a lot so we didn't walk much nearby (or take many pictures). However, we did get to see the pretty beach and explored the historic homestead of Colonel Ebey, who settled the area in the early 1850s, despite a steady drizzle. After a few stops, we figured out that we needed to go into town to get the stamp. We parked near the harbor and found a little visitors center where we learned more about the area. We then stopped at Kapaws Iskreme (1615) for delicious bowls of ice cream, which we ate while we walked along the pier. There were huge amounts of mussels that were visible during the low tide - we'd been seeing people shell fishing all morning but had no idea there were so many so close! Also at the pier, we saw a display in the Coupeville Wharf building that described the destruction of the once large group of the Southern Resident family of Orcas. After reading about them and tracking their activities since we first started thinking about this trip., it was horrifying to learn that nearly 70 of the killer whales were killed or removed from the Salish Sea between about 1966 and 1976. Bounty hunters apparently sought any calves they could find to sell to Aquariums (including Sea World) around the world and killed the parents along the way. Even then, they usually only captured one or two whales after chasing 5-7 at a time with explosives (!!!) while the rest drowned. As a result of the carnage, there are now less than 75 orca left in the group. Even worse, no whale has even approached Penn Cove, where we were standing, since a whole pod was "removed" in 1970. Quite depressing overall - but we gained a new appreciation for the whales that are left and hope to see some soon. We drove a short distance and found our lodging at the Navy Lodge at NAS Whidbey (after getting turned around between the main base and the base housing area). We did laundry (first time during the whole trip) immediately after checking into our room (1830). Mollie borrowed a movie (“Thor”) from the Front Desk and I went shopping at the Commissary (finished at 1815). When I got back, Mollie cooked us dinner (macaroni and cheese, green) in the room and we watched TV. Bedtime was at 2230. We're all settled in for our last few days in the PNW!