Danby, VT (USA)

"Vermud" Day 3! The cold I'd feared hit very hard yesterday and it only got worse overnight - almost called off the entire hike today because I didn't feel well. However, I had a great opportunity for a car shuttle with Eileen this morning - and the weather was perfect - so I didn't scratch. We ate breakfast (special sandwiches and coffee cake muffins from the Mount Tabor Country Store at the house in Danby (0725). I was entertained by Eileen's quest for coffee. Spent some time cleaning the cabin and I lost the keys (!!) [note - after we got home, I learned we forgot to turn off coffee machine :-(]. Then we drove to Rutland and dropped off one car at the AT Trailhead on US-4. We continued to the K-1 Gondola parking lot inside the Killington Ski Area, where we bought tickets (0930). Our timing was pretty good and we got in one of the first cars to leave the lower level for the Peak (1000). We rode the Gondola for over a mile and were treated to great view of the valleys and mountains (towards the east). Had some deja vu again, this time from several ski weekends here when I was in high school - but I had no idea the AT was on the mountain back then. At the top, we explored the area near the lodge and got directions to the Cooper Lodge Shelter (my last turnaround on the Peak in 2017). The access trail took us across a nice gantry and then down a trail that wasn't clearly marked but, luckily, it was the correct one. We started NOBO from there and I was relieved that it was mostly downhill for the entire section back to US-4. We kept up a pretty good pace but weren't in too much of a hurry - saw a few good vistas, met some interesting people (though only a couple of SOBO Thru hikers and no NOBOs) and enjoyed the pleasant mountain air. It was great catching up on news and reminiscing about the past. There was some mud but it was much drier than the previous days. Total distance for the day was probably around 6.5 miles but can only count part because of an aborted climb (for weather) in 2014. We managed to reach my car by around 1345 and drove up to Killington again to retrieve the other vehicle. We watched a young black bear scamper across the road on the way - a nice surprise! After a day like today, I think I'm much more of a fan of "one way" hikes (rather than all the backtracks my hiking strategy usually requires). Said goodbye to Eileen near the Gondola and started the long drive home... Used US-4 to NY-149, US-9 and NY-254 to I-87, I-90, I-88, I-81, I-83, PA-581, US-15, I-270, I-495, with gas stops in Bainbridge (NY) at 1745 and Thurmont (MD) at 2145. Driving from 1430 to 2300: encountered rain in the Catskills and some construction in Pennsylvania (planned closures after 2100 got me again). Passed the time with phone calls with Erin, Mollie and Eileen. Sad to leave Vermont - hope to come back soon! AT Today = 5.30 miles / G.T. AT = 1150.42 miles

Danby, VT (USA)

“Vermud” Day 2! Woke up a bit later and waffled about direction to go for a trail section. Got breakfast at McDonalds in Manchester (0730). Had planned on driving into New Hampshire but ended up returning to the Manchester area. Used VT-11/30 to reach Peru and then took Main Street, Hapgood Pond Road, USFS-22 and USFS-21 to get to Mad Tom Notch. Arrived at the trailhead just after 0800 and was lucky to get a parking spot (one left). Thought about hiking south to Bromley but decided instead to hike to Peru Peak (NOBO). It was foggy again, with a strong breeze, and it was pleasantly cool for late July. The first mile and a half was a challenging climb to the ridgeline with rock scrambles, root hopping and mud slogging. Still, it wasn’t as muggy as the previous two days and the view at the top (Styles Peak) was awesome. The ridge was just as muddy as the lower elevations and I had to navigate many up/down trail changes as I made my way north. Met two SOBO Thru hikers with their dog “Sam” and a few day hikers. Otherwise, the trail was mine. It was eerily quiet in several places - no birds, no wind, no sign of civilization. I turned around at Peru Peak (no view, unfortunately). On the way back, I probably passed 10 NOBO Thru hikers, more than half were the same I’d seen yesterday (got that “where did you come from?” look again). I stopped to rest at Styles Peak before I was done and enjoyed the company and conversation of a hiker from Tennessee who, while chowing down a full hunk of cheese, told me about his travels. No matter how many miles I’ve already hiked, there is so much more out there to see and experience! Made great time during the downhill and arrived at my car after 6.5ish miles (1155). Didn’t feel as tired/drenched as previous two days. Before I left, I found out from a local hiker that there is a trail nearby that will allow me to get back to Peru Peak without any AT re-hike - glad I found this trailhead! Headed back to the Danby house to rest up for more hiking... Called an audible on the next hike - the walk yesterday (near Rootsville Road) didn't seem worth the time when I could do something closer to town. Headed to Rutland for dinner at McDonalds (1755) and got gas down the street (1805). The weather was still great so decided to hike another section - this time east of Rutland. Eileen was inbound but was taking longer than she'd planned (with spotty cell service) so I thought I would squeeze in a "nature walk" near the Thundering Brook Falls before our planned hike in Gifford Woods. I drove to the trailhead on River Road (1815) and "hiked" SOBO on the pretty footbridge across a marshy river valley. There were lots of nature walkers enjoying the pleasant evening. Passed the waterfall and decided to continue on to my turnaround (Thundering Brook Road). As I was on my way back downhill (1845), Eileen texted that she had reached the other trailhead (at VT-100) so I sprinted back to my car (skipping the falls). Overall, hiked a little less than one mile in less than a half hour. Met Eileen at the State Park headquarters and, after quickly gearing up, headed SOBO from Campsite #10 (1900). The section was mostly uphill on a ridge and had several signs with vague guidance on how to get to the AT and Long Trail junction - I'm glad I had someone with me to help navigate the right way. We turned around at Maine Junction (where the AT/LT split) just as the sun was setting and headed back to the car. It got darker during the backtrack but we didn't end up needing a headlamp. Finished around 4.5 miles by 2100 and felt great. Ending the hike in the campground made me wish that I was staying there for the night (not THIS time...). We drove into Rutland and had a late dinner at Applebees (complete with Cranberry and Grey Goose drinks). We also shuttled the cars back to Danby and spent a little while in the kitchen of the old house, catching up and planning for the next day. Hoping to hike Killington Peak tomorrow! AT Today = 5.80 miles / G.T. AT = 1145.12 miles

Danby, VT (USA)

“Vermud” Day 1! Was up early and, after breakfast at McDonalds in Manchester (0710), took Rootsville Road towards the AT Trailhead. Unfortunately, Google Maps told me I could get there on a road that was actually private. The only other option was a rough fire road that had so many rocks it looked like cobblestones exploding. Oh, and there were huge mud puddles - it had rained pretty hard overnight and everything was drenched. There was also a thick fog everywhere I looked but the sun was starting to warm things up as I climbed. I started SOBO at 0730 but had to walk for over a mile and a half to even find the AT. Once there, I continued south and immediately encountered NOBO Thru hikers (too many to count). A young SOBO Thru hiker (“Fifty”) and her yellow lab (“Teddy”) ended up joining me after I left the gravel road and we stuck together for almost four miles. She was very interested in intel from the southern part of the AT and asked me lots of questions about my Section Hiking strategy. I was glad to have someone to talk to but that happened anyway as we passed even more NOBOs... Did I mention the mud? I’ve never been so dirty - I gave up trying to avoid the puddles and just embraced the mud bath. I turned around at the bridge over the Winhall River. Fifty gave me some filtered water from the reddish colored stream - I gladly took it. Headed back to my car as it warmed up. Now it was time to pass tons of SOBOs (again, too many to count). I remember this phenomenon from last year: thru hiker bubbles coming from different directions converging at the end of July in VT. Made good time back to Prospect Rocks and took some time there to enjoy the view (wow!). Sun was hot overhead by then and I felt like I’d jumped in the river because I’d been sweating so much. Finished at my car by 1245 after 10.5 total miles. Pictures don’t really even show just how much mud was on me - and it had dried. Good for my pores, right? After a short stop for ice cream at Manchester House of Pizza (1300) and a nice call with Mollie, went back to the house in Danby to rest up for some more hiking in the evening. Feeling a cold coming on... In the evening, I picked up some cough medicine at Walgreens in Rutland, VT (1745) and ate dinner at Pizza Hut in Rutland, VT (finished at 1800). After the meal, I ventured east on US-4, looking for potential trailhead roads beyond Killington. I found some promising leads but it was hard to find a way into the 18 mile section east of River Road - may need a shuttle so I can one way it someday. In Woodstock, I changed to VT-12 and found the AT crossing. Had some deja vu from my 2014 trip (had searched unsuccessfully for hostels in the area). There was only an hour of daylight left and big clouds threatened in the West but I decided to hike another mile or so before bed. Headed NOBO at 1915 and climbed to the top (steep) of Dana Hill. It was very quiet and I didn’t see any people at all. Decided to backtrack when I reached the ridge and made it back to the car quickly (by 2015) after around two miles. Spectacular sun/cloud effects. Glad I didn’t quit after the morning hike! More tomorrow... AT Today = 4.80 miles / G.T. AT = 1139.32 miles

Dalton, MA (USA)

I was able to get out of the city for my (annual?) hiking trip to Vermont! Left early (0545), using I-95, I-695, I-83 (gas in Harrisburg at 0810), I-81, I-78, I-278, NY-17 to NY-32 and NY-94 into downtown Newburgh (from the south) and I-84 (ate lunch at McDonalds in Fishkill at 1140) to get to the Taconic Parkway. Received a welcome call from Eileen (we talked a few times while I was driving north, before I lots signal). Used NY-203 to get to NY-22, then took State Line Road east into Massachusetts. Followed MA-41 and US-20 to Pittsfield, where I got gas (Citgo) at 1325. Continued on to Dalton, where I wanted to hike the AT before I drove the rest of the way to Vermont. With traffic and road construction, I was not able to get on the trail until 1400. I chose a hike (from the trailhead at Gulf Road, north of town) that allowed me to connect sections I last hiked in 2014 and 2015. Rain was threatening as I headed NOBO. I was joined by six Thru Hikers who had just walked through town - they scampered away quickly but I was glad, actually - not only for the solitude but because they wreaked! I had to climb a few hills to get to my turnaround point (Crystal Mountain Campsite) but I only got one clear view of any scenery (nice Berkshire peak vista as I crossed a power line slash) due to the thick cover of vegetation. I’d been in the area in Fall and Winter so I enjoyed the resulting shade this time. It wasn’t too hot but the humidity was stifling - my clothes were drenched by the mid point! There was also some serious mud in a few areas - this place had been getting a lot of rain during the previous weeks - but most of the trail was dry. I heard a lot of rolling thunder to the east but it never rained. On my backtrack, I met four more Thru Hikers and learned they were at the tail end of a Bubble that left Springer in late March and early April. I also ran into one day hiker just before I reached my car and got off the AT for a half mile on a gravel road. By the time I finished the 6.5 miles for the day (1645), I felt energized and ready for more trail miles! Unfortunately, it started pouring as I headed north on US-7 and this effectively dashed hopes for a hike in another section in southern Vermont. Still, I was thinking it would be great if the hiking during my entire trip was similarly timed to avoid the rain... Drove back to Pittsfield and used US-7 to get to Danby (it was raining most of the way). Arrived after dark (luckily, I was familiar with the procedure to get into the house that Elizabeth let me borrow). Got dinner (a specially made sandwich) at the Mount Tabor Country Store (1900). Spent some time teleworking before bed. Green Mountains, here I come! AT Today = 3.23 miles / Grand Total AT = 1134.52 miles

Arlington, VA (USA)

[work - took Metro to Pentagon City and met up with Bill W. for happy hour at Sine - we stayed for a long time (he kept saying "one more") - done at 1920 - afterwards, I stopped to visit with the guys at the Viking Roundup (same bar) and saw some of my old friends (George W.) - ran into Jack A. (and his wife) on the way home - home late - packing]

Arlington, VA (USA)

[work - took Metro to Pentagon City and met up with Stephanie for happy hour at the Ritz (finished at 1725) and then at Chevys (for flautas!) - belated birthday celebrations for both of us (Stephanie treated me at Chevys) - we stayed until after 1900 and had a fun time (talking hiking, Pacific Northwest) - Metro home]

Washington, DC (USA)

[work - lunch with Brenna F at L'Enfant - work - took shuttle to District Wharf - happy hour with Kelly at Kirwan's Irish Pub - finished at around 1815 - Kelly drove me to the Pentagon and I took the Metro home from there]

Alexandria, VA (USA)

[work - after getting home from the City, relaxed and read - at 1815, drove over to the Alley Cat bar to play games ("Citadels", board game) with Bob and his gaming friends - done at 2020 - home by 2100]

Washington, DC (USA)

[Mollie slept until 0900 and then made breakfast - she studied for a little while while I did errands and went walking (along US-1, near the Jiffy Lube, while waiting for my oil change) - at 1130, we left our house to pick up Brenna and drop off Mollie’s bags from the weekend - we decided to use the Chrysler and we drove to pick up Sabrina (because Erin was working) so we could all go to the Nationals baseball game - we got free parking and had no trouble getting into Nationals Park just as it opened - we got to the Gold Glove Club (tickets provided to me by my company CEO) early and enjoyed the amazing food and drink - there was a pretty extensive rain delay, so the game didn’t start until two hours late (1530) - we still had fun, though - we stayed until the start of the 5th Inning and got to take pictures with the Presidents on the way out - used South Capitol Street and I-295 to get back to Old Town - we dropped off Sabrina and I drove Brenna and Mollie home by 1815]

Fairfax, VA (USA)

[Mollie slept until 0915 - she made breakfast (pancakes with homemade cherry syrup) and helped me clean up the apartment (dusting, shower, more laundry) - at 1030, we drove over to the Fairfax Animal Shelter to visit a dog that Mollie had seen online - unfortunately, the animal (“Maybelle”) had a very long history of behavior problems - we also visited with another dog (“Lillian”) and encountered a former colleague of mine (Diane F) who was a volunteer there - by 1200 (pouring rain), we drove home and ate a late lunch (tuna mac) - we read and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon]

Alexandria, VA (USA)

[teleworked - early in the morning, I went walking at Huntley Meadows while Mollie was sleeping - teleworked some more and enjoyed Mollie's company all day]

Potsdam, NY (USA)

[woke up at 0600 (after a restless sleep) - ate breakfast with Robin and nice conversation afterwards - drove west, through Potsdam, and stopped in the town of Hannawa Falls, where I met Eileen, Matt and Scott at Postwood Beach (0845) - they had four kayaks (all Epic type of various sizes) - this was a very new experience for me - we also met Roger on the lake and then spent about 1.5 hours paddling - I was in an Epic V7 that was pretty "tippy" - I guess I’ve been viewing kayaks the wrong way all my life - the boat was nearly twice as long and half as wide as what I’d ever tried - it took lots of balance and foot coordination for steering needed but boy did she glide on the water - despite the instability of the kayak, I never fell in the water - my back hurt a bit and I got a good workout - this type of sleek kayak makes that one I was planning on buying seem like a canoe by comparison (I might be spoiled now) - after we were done (1015), I stayed to talk to Matt for a while - I'd expected to have about another hour before I met Eileen for lunch - however, she texted at 1045 that she was already at the Village Diner - so, I headed there and we enjoyed some good food and conversation - after we finished (1215), she took me to her (new to me) house and showed me around - we talked for a bit longer and I left for home at 1330 - US-11 stopped for gas in Gouverneur (1410) and then got on I-81 - more rain, with some really bad near Scranton - good ride (no stops) all the way to Pine Grove, where I got more gas (1845) - made pretty good time all the way and thought I could break my all-time record by using I-83 - this turned out to be a huge mistake and I was in a big traffic jam (completely stopped) near York - even after I made it through, the traffic was thick for the rest of the way home - I-695, I-95, I-495 - a big rock (from an 18-wheeler in front of me on the Beltway) hit my windshield but I didn't see any damage - still got home by 2145, which was just over 8 hours after I'd left Potsdam - even found a parking spot! - unpacked and got ready for the new work week]

Postdam, NY (USA)

[up at 0500 - left by 0545 - drove via I-495, I-95, I-695, I-83, I-81, I-84 - gas and lunch (McDonalds) at Montague, NJ (1020) - got off at Taconic Parkway and drove to NY-82 - made wrong turn and ended up driving a bit out of my way (towards Dover Plains) - on NY-22 eventually, drove to Pawling] - [The heat this summer has prevented me from tackling long sections of AT and the forecast showed ~90s again today. But I wanted to get out there, even if only to keep my trail legs limber. So I drove about five hours north of the DMV to a place where I knew I could log a few miles in the (relative) shade. Made it to the trailhead on NY-22 in Pawling, NY, by 1145. There, I encountered three Thru-hikers and a group of people conducting a trail use survey. I skipped this and headed across a well constructed (new?) boardwalk, SOBO. Immediately after, I encountered people carrying equipment and supplies for a cookout (I learned later that a Harlem Valley business group had sponsored a "Trail Magic" event for hikers). Without delay, I made it into the woods and started uphill. I'd forgotten my bug spray and the mosquitoes reminded me... Half the hike today was on planks, logs and the platform I'd mentioned. The other half was on the edge of uncut farmers' fields. I had to chop my way through cat tails and tall swaths of hay to make progress and I was mindful of ticks throughout the day. I got some incredible views of the ridges to the west (saving them for my last section of New York AT). Turned around at Dutchess County Road 20 and headed back to the car as quickly as I could. It was definitely 90+ by then and I didn't want to prolong the heat exposure, especially after previous experiences in this area... Other than the hikers I'd seen at the Metro-North station when I started, I saw no one else on the trail. There were plenty of birds - especially red-winged blackbirds. The whole leg reminded me of my hikes near Vernon, NJ. Made it to my car by 1345 after nearly five miles of AT (including backtrack) and changed out of my drenched clothing. Felt like I'd barely scratched the surface of getting some miles but looking forward to more hiking opportunities soon - finished my AT "daydream" and headed north on NY-22 - too much traffic so I headed west on US-44 (and other back roads) to get to NY-9D and (eventually), US-9 - rain in several places - near Albany, got on I-90 and cross the Hudson (no toll) - switched to I-781 and NY-7 to get to I-87 - made good time (more rain) to exit 26 - took back roads to NY-28N - amazing scenery! - found my way to Long Lake and NY-30 - got gas and beer for the party - drove through Tupper Lake and found NY-56 (1800) - made good time to Potsdam - then found my way to Stockholm and Robin's house (for Eileen's YRQ party) via US-11 - arrived at 1930 and stayed until the party ended (2300) - met a lot of Eileen's friends - lots of new people - I was able to crash at Robin's, thanks to Eileen - shower - bed at 2330 - AT Today = 2.40 miles / Grand Total AT = 1131.29 miles]

Washington, DC (USA)

[work (half day) - walked to Penn Social Club at around 1145 for the company summer party - stayed until 1545 - walked to Archives with Vik and then walked to L'Enfant - headed home on Metro and packed for my trip]

Washington, DC (USA)

[Mollie and I texted throughout the day to set up our dinner (we decided on the District Wharf area) - Brenna called later, asking for help in selecting Mollie's gift - she also asked if she could come to dinner with me and Mollie (I said yes) - due to Metro delays, I went to the restaurant (Requin) at 1730 to wait for the girls - I texted a lot of directions (successfully, I guess) and they arrived by 1750 - we ate a delicious dinner (French bread, gnocchi, roasted chicken on a bed of mashed potatoes and salad, beignets and Pavlova for desert) - we talked a lot about summer activities and plans for the upcoming school year (already!) - after we finished eating (1910), we walked all along the Waterfront in the beautiful weather - we took the Southwest Shuttle (bus) and Metro back to Huntington (arrived at around 2030) - Brenna said she wanted to get together again soon and I reminded them that we might get tickets (from my company) to the Nationals Game soon - it was clear they had a nice time and that made me happy]

Arlington, VA (USA)

[work - happy hour at Chevys Pentagon City (solo) - starting at 1710, walked around in the Fashion Centre Mall afterwards (to get my 10K steps) - Metro home]

Great Falls, VA (USA)

[after Mollie had breakfast, we drove to Great Falls - by 0900, we arrived at the house of my friend, Ramesh B - just as we had during a previous visit, we took a nature walk along the Potomac (including Trump National Golf Course) - after about three miles, we ate lunch (Indian potato pancakes, mangos, watermelon, blueberry, banana, yogurt) prepared by Ramesh’s wife, Reeta - after spending some time visiting (nice), we left for home by 1330]

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 17

Still flying (between Chicago and Washington DC) after midnight. We arrived at DCA around 0020. Baggage claim went quickly. When we went outside, we were hit with a lot of humidity and both commented on how we missed the dry air of the PNW. I couldn't get my Uber app to work correctly, so this delayed our departure a bit. Eventually found a taxi and got ride to my apartment (very pricy). We arrived at 0115 - home at last! Before going to sleep, I did some organizing and cleaning for a bit. We both were in bed by 0200. What an amazing trip!

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 16

I was up at 0400 and did some repacking and reading. We ate breakfast in hotel at 0600 and then did some more reading and bag consolidation. We got gas nearby at Arco at 0945. After checking out of the hotel (1030), we drove from Kent to the Marriott Seattle Airport so we could return our rental car at Hertz. The office was closed (we'd been warned) but the process went well. When I was writing down the mileage, I determined we'd driven almost 4200 miles!  It was a good little car... We caught the airport shuttle (he actually waited for us) at 1015. Got ourselves through check-in at United Gate (bag swaps, checked one) and security (dog checks and no bag emptying required). After settling in some seats (to wait), I again moved more stuff between the bags. To pass the time (and get my 10K steps), I went walking in the terminal while Mollie did practice questions for SATs. We both did some reading later. United had a good boarding process and we took off on time. We got drinks and snacks and watched scenery out the windows (Mollie liked the view). I read my book on Overdrive and Mollie started reading “Canal Boy”, a paperback book that I’d brought for myself. Mollie's phone almost died before we landed so she was on a mission to get it recharged after we landed in Chicago (1900 local). I went walking in the terminal a little and also picked up a late dinner (sandwiches). We got on the plane on time but there was a crew delay and swap, that caused us to take off about 45 minutes late. Mollie continued devouring the paperback during the delay (she read half before the lights were dimmed on the plane). The plane was almost empty and dark (we couldn't even turn on the reading lights for some reason). Flying (from Chicago) after midnight...

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 15

We were both up at 0530 and ate breakfast at the hotel. We did some packing, checked out and got gas (0635). The station was closed but my credit card worked. Our last true vacation day began early again and the weather couldn't have been better! From our room at Navy Lodge Whidbey, we could see the Olympics, the San Juans, Rainier and the base of Mount Baker. We also saw another seal in the harbor as we departed. Of course, as we've done for nearly two weeks, we looked for whales again - not just on the way off the Island but also near Everett and Tulalip (no luck). We continued south to Seattle and parked in Pioneer Square (0955). After so many days in the "wild", I did not enjoy the traffic or the number of people we encountered in the city. Mollie was even more unhappy with the change of pace... Once our NPS Passport work was done at the Klondike National Historic Site (which we’d visited in 2009), we headed down to the Waterfront and walked the Pier. We still had our binoculars but we didn't see any whales... Mollie did not enjoy the sounds from the Alaskan Way Viaduct that accompanied us - they are expected to be done with the tunnel work by the end of this year so that will likely improve the experience in the future. We climbed up the steps to visit the Pike Place Market for a short time and Mollie tried to get souvenirs for her mother (lines very long). We walked back on 1st Avenue (quieter) and then headed out of town. A drive along the seaside near Des Moines made us feel a bit better - as did the amazing views of Rainier as we got closer. We got some lunch at McDonalds in Des Moines (1155) and drove to the area (Kent) where our Ramada hotel was located. They let us check in early and we relaxed for most of the afternoon, trying psych ourselves up for the long flight home. At 1645 we drove to Tacoma, where we had a nice dinner (Sushi Tama) with Lee and his wife, Kristie. It was great to catch up (and talk about future plans). When we were done (2045), we drove back to our hotel and were able to get some spectacular pictures of Mount Rainier from the highway. Mollie posted on Facebook: "The past 14 days have been a whirlwind of activity, with us going to as many places and doing as many things as we could. This trip has made both of us love Washington more than ever (not counting Seattle *shivers*), and we plan to come back here as soon as we can. Until next time, Mt. Rainier..." Before bed, I went walking while Mollie watched TV. We both went to sleep at 2200. After 4000 miles in the rental car, 42 license plate sightings, snow capped mountains, volcanos, beach walks, gray whale sightings, ferry rides, Redwoods, 10000+ steps of walking every day, caves, 60 degree weather, restaurants and motels (and more), it will be hard to settle back into reality. Mollie's already planning another getaway for 12 months from now...

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 14

As usual, we were awake early (0500). Again, we ate breakfast at Navy Lodge Whidbey and got ready for an early departure. Following our "mountain day" yesterday, we decided to take a tour of the San Juan Islands! From the NAS, we could see the Olympics without clouds - an amazing view. Drove to Anacortes and got gas (0655). We arrived at the ferry landing (0710) and learned we were second in line for the 0905 (non-stop) ferry. Many other people showed up soon afterwards, so I was very glad we'd gotten there early. Seeing the pre-Independence Day crowds, I quickly made a return trip reservation on the Washington State Ferry website... I then took a nature walk on the beach nearby while Mollie worked on her journal. After watching huge crowds board another ferry (bound for Victoria), we boarded "Samish" on time and found a good place to sit onboard. It was overcast and cool (50s) when we made our transit to Friday Harbor but we didn't mind - we looked for whales and worked on a puzzle. The Olympics were more visible today than they have been all week and the weather cleared significantly by the time we disembarked (around 1015). We left the tourist area and headed south to the National Park (American Camp), where Mollie got a NPS Passport Stamp and a Junior Ranger patch. Later, we took a nice walk on the bluffs overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We looked for whales again and marveled at the scenery that was visible all the way from the Cascades to the western end of Washington State and Vancouver Island. We headed north on country roads until we reached the San Juan County Park, where we ate a picnic lunch in view of a pretty cove. I got an update for Mollie about Eileen’s prize (money and a golden canoe). We talked about her Extended Essay for IB and about our 2019 Summer Vacation destination (Canadian Maritimes?). I found it funny when Mollie also gave me a dig when I commented that she seemed tired - she blamed me (“Dad, you always snore!”)! After exploring some of the resorts (e.g., Mitchell Bay) on the west side of San Juan Island, our next stop was the British Camp (more NP). There, we took another nice walk and took a break on a high bluff that overlooked Garrison Bay. We looked for whales again (didn't see any) and were fortunate to see several herons, two playful seals who were visible under the water and a deer that swam from a little island back to the mainland before our eyes. We drove north again and stopped for ice cream (1415) in Roche Harbor (pretty) and made a short visit at the Westcott Bay Oyster Company (BBQ in full swing!). Mollie kept asking me what time it was because she wanted to make sure we had time to visit the Whale Museum in Friday Harbor. We made it there by 1515 and found the place to be quite professional and educational. I enjoyed reading the "biographies" of many of the Southern Resident J, K and L pod orcas that the locals track. We also watched a movie about the effect of ocean sounds on whale reproduction and communication, along with another about the re-unification of Northern Resident calf "Springer" with her pod in 2002. Overall, great place. We drove to the ferry landing at around 1700 and got in line for the 1830 ferry back to Anacortes. The parking attendant said we could leave the car for up to 60 minutes so we did some exploring in Friday Harbor. Mollie found a good book store and we bought some souvenirs (1715). I was tempted to sit on a bar stool until it was time to leave (like I did in 2010) but decided against it - there was too much to see! Back on the ferry ("Yakima" this time), we looked for whales all the way home (still no luck). By then, there weren't any clouds in the sky and it was in the mid 60s - such amazing weather! We were off the ferry by 2000 and stopped one more time at Deception Pass to see if the orcas who had been there earlier in the day (reported online) were still visible from the bridge. No dice, unfortunately. I think Mollie may believe we failed in our orca mission but the day was awesome for me. We were both sad that we’d have to leave in a few days but decided that we would definitely come back! After driving around in Base Housing (saw another seal in the harbor), we arrived at our hotel. Mollie cooked us a late dinner (macaroni and cheese, corn, strawberry newtons) and we read for a little while. Both of us went to bed at 2245.

Summer Vacation Trip - Day 13

We woke up at 0545 and ate breakfast at the hotel. Most mornings on this trip, we've had to answer a question as we've departed our hotel: mountains or ocean? I chose the former today and it looked like a big mistake, initially (rain showers). Fortunately, the weather around here is unpredictable and constantly changing so it didn't turn out badly. We left at around 0715, got gas and later stopped at Deception Pass so Mollie could take photos. We used WA-20 (plus a bit of I-5 and back roads) to get to Marblemount. It was raining all the way there from the NAS and I was afraid we’d made a bad choice on the direction for our day. We visited the local Fish Hatchery (our fourth such stop) and this turned out to be a good idea because they had an informative video about the whole process. Also, it stopped raining by the time we finished our visit (0900). I recommended that Mollie send a postcard to Matthew and Emily and she wrote one (we just needed the mailing address). We drove east again until we reached the North Cascades National Park Visitors Center near Newhalem. Mollie got another Passport stamp and, at her request, I got her some cute bear paw earrings, which required her to reopen her piercings (they had closed up from not wearing earrings in a long time) so she could wear them. Our itinerary was flexible and we considered driving down to Chelan to catch the ferry up to the Lake Chelan NRA drive. But the weather was iffy and the drive would have been very long so we decided to stay in the Cascades and Ross Lake NRA area for the day. This proved to be the right decision and we were treated with clearer skies and low 60s as soon as we reached the Gorge Dam. The last time I was here (2010), I didn't go farther east - this meant that all of the places we visited today were new to both of us. We took nature walks at the Gorge Overlook Trail, the Happy Creek Forest Walk and the Canyon Creek Trail. We ate lunch (bologna and cheese sandwiches, cheezits, apples), that we packed. When we passed the eastern boundary of the parks, we were amazed at the views of the mountains behind us. Fortunately, we got to drive through a long valley with plenty of roadside pull-offs for photos. We next hiked a few miles on the PCT (north side of WA-20 to Porcupine Creek and then back to the road). This gave us even nicer panoramas of the snowcapped peaks. The highlight of the whole day was when we took a walk the Overlook Trail at Washington Pass. Of all our stops on this trip, I don't believe had such a beautiful view! The weather was spectacular and the visibility practically unlimited. After relaxing for a bit, we retraced our steps towards Fidalgo Island, stopping at the Gorge Dam for a lesson in hydroelectric power, and the Visitors Center again for souvenirs (1515) before we were done with the National Park. My friend, Eileen, had just completed a multi-day kayaking race in Yukon Territory and Mollie kept asking me to find out what her prize for the race was (for finishing 14th place). Mollie also asked me to request horse riding photos from Red Hawk Stables (the owner sent them on her own later in the evening). We drove into Anacortes and ate dinner at one of my favorite restaurants, The Brown Lantern Ale House. Mollie even tried oysters (shooters)! After we were done (1830), we walked around in town for a little while and saw Mount Baker. Back at the Navy Lodge, Mollie borrowed a movie (“Planes”) from the Front Desk and we had fun watching it. We went to bed at 2200. Another amazing day - wish we never had to leave!