Friday, July 3, 2020
Lyme, NH (USA)
Weather wasn’t supposed to be good enough for a hike, so I wasn’t ready to go anywhere when I woke up. When I realized that the arrival of the rain was delayed, I quickly assembled my gear and drove to the closest AT trailhead (Goose Pond Road in Lyme). With overcast skies, high humidity and temps on the mid 70s, I was NOBO by 0830. The first mile started with some easy grades but finished with the crossing of a treacherous morass. Like other swampy sections of the AT, this area had plank “bridges” - unfortunately, all the wood in them had broken or rotted. This made passage difficult and increased my exposure to many hungry mosquitos and biting flies. Once I got through, the trail climbed dramatically (1500 feet in just over a mile). During this ascent, I found myself questioning whether to continue - it took a lot of mental toughness to reach the ridge. My strength and resolve was spent by the top of the climb and I started looking for a landmark to use for my backtrack. Just then, a trio of lady trail runners and their two chocolate labs caught up to me from behind. I let them pass and noticed that the older dog (who was bringing up the rear), despite obvious signs of fatigue, still had a spring in his step. He kept looking back at me, seemingly inviting me to follow. As soon as I did, though, he looked off with his ladies and I found myself on a decidedly downhill track. Moments later, I reached the first of Holt’s Ledges - from there, I was treated to spectacular views of virgin forest and hills to the East. There were two more views to the North, each one better than the last. As I walked between them, it was quite unsettling to see how close the AT followed the cliff edge - one false move in the dark and aaaaaahhhhh... I took my time, enjoying the many different panoramas. Standing up on each ledge, I felt like the only person in the world - what a great feeling! I did spot an isolated homestead in the valley - would like to meet the person who lives there... Reluctantly, I continued my descent to the Trapper John Shelter... This side of the hill was just as steep as the other (upside down V shape) but I didn’t think I’d have nearly as far to walk down (or back up). Fortunately, I was correct. I turned around at the shelter sign (didn’t see the building, though). As I climbed back up the hill, I passed two solo backpackers (one man, one woman). Once I passed the Holt’s Ledges again, it was all downhill towards my car. I made great time and only stopped once to talk to a young backpacking couple (with their dog). Made it to the road by 1100, after just over 5.5 miles. Was tired and sore but the views and memories were worth all that. Will be seeking more miles over the holiday weekend! AT Today = 2.80 miles / Grand Total AT = 1595.16 miles