Orford, NH (USA)

After my hike up the south side of Mount Cube last week I kept watching the weather for an evening that would allow me to climb up from the north side to watch the sun set.  The remnants of a tropical storm came through the Upper Valley a few days ago and cooled everything down.  This made this evening an opportune one for the climb.  Left Hanover (used NH-10) at 1715 and arrived at the AT trailhead on NH-25A (east of Orford) just before 1800.  I had my light backpack and was on the trail (SOBO) minutes later.  The temps were in the high 70s but the sun was already dropping in the western sky - it cooled off quickly.  Within the first hundred yards, I came across two girls (Thru hikers) who had set up camp right next to the trail.  They seemed nonchalant about the lack of privacy in such a campsite and had stripped down after their long day on the trail.  Somehow, though, I was the one who felt awkward as they waved to me...  In the next mile, I passed three more (Thru) hikers: a young couple who asked me how far the road was and an older guy who seemed to think I was unprepared to climb the mountain so late in the day.  For the rest of the outbound leg (all uphill), I was alone (had hoped to see some animals in the dusk but didn’t).  Unlike the south side of the mountain, the trail was a series of zig-zag switchbacks climbs with multiple “false summits”.  For some reason, last weekend’s hikes and kayaking had made me really sore and I’d never really recovered.  All the way up the mountain, I truly felt like an old man, with aches and pains in nearly every part of my body.  Coupled with mud, slippery rocks, lots of roots and evidence of damage from the storm, the climb was miserable.  The only reason I made it, actually, was that I was determined to keep going through the discomfort (mental toughness is definitely required to hike the AT!).  The view from the top was the reward - the panorama of the green mountains to the south and west, the sinking sun low near the horizon and the beautiful sensation of being king of a world of solitude were unbeatable.  I waited a little bit before I started back downhill but because I knew the descent (mostly in the dark) would be difficult and slow, I reluctantly departed.  Within an hour, the sun was gone - fortunately, I’d already cleared the worst of the trail hazards.  My night vision kicked in and I was able to get most of the way back without a light.  It was slow going but I was managing OK.  Unfortunately, I encountered three other hikers with some kind of fluorescent search light and it nearly blinded me.  Used a flashlight after that...  Heard what sounded like a massive fireworks display to the west but couldn’t see anything in that direction.  Also heard dueling barred owls and some other birds singing pretty songs.  Just before the road, I found the girls’ campsite again - they’d been joined by the other three hikers.  Everyone had retired to their tents and the night was filled with giggling and the smell of Mary Jane.  But they got all whispery and turned off their lights when I lumbered by...  Reached the car by 2110 after just over 7 miles.  Felt tired and even more sore - but also glad I got completed more AT miles and saw a great sunset.  Driving home (NH-10), realized it was one of the first times in a long time I was transiting Moose country in the dark - fortunately didn’t run into any!  Hoping to limp through another hike this weekend - we’ll see...  AT Today = 3.40 miles / Grand Total AT = 1630.96 miles