White River Junction, VT (USA)

I was able to get a Flu Shot at the VA Medical Center in White River Junction this morning (0830) - very easy drive through service!  It was rainy and a bit chilly, so I didn't end up going for a walk like I'd hoped.  Instead, I drove over to the Subaru dealership to check on bike racks for Nessie.  This was a pretty productive visit but I decided I needed more research before I made a decision.  Headed back to my condo and teleworked the rest of the day.

Enfield, NH (USA)

This morning (1000) I went over to the Our Lady of Lasalette Shrine in Enfield for Reconciliation.  I met Father John and had a nice conversation with him and then went to Mass (1130).  Afterwards, I teleworked at my condo.  It was a nice break from my normal routine and I'll definitely return.

Bennington, VT (USA)

The surrounding noises (coyote howls, random thumps, noises from the valley near US-7, etc.) made it a bit hard to sleep last night... The wind came up and died down repeatedly - I realized I’d been asleep when I’d wake up.  By 0500, I was wide awake but had to wait another hour before there was enough light to strike camp.  After breakfast (0715), I got underway, expecting to hike just over six miles to reach my car.  It was foggy so I missed seeing the actual sunrise.  Once the sun got higher, the temps quickly climbed (mid 70s) and I ran out of water...  Fortunately, I was already planning on filling up my reservoir again at Hell Hollow Brook.  While I was there, I encountered a young couple who were on their last day of a Long Trail Thru hike.  The guy was chatty but his S.O. was not - maybe she just needed coffee?  Even though I left before they were done refilling, I let them pass and continued south.  For the rest of the section (it had a couple more roller coasters), I saw about 10 people (trail runners, young couples day hiking and an energetic young lady who asked me a million questions (I was up for it!).  The 1.5 mile descent (a retread) from the last shelter, down to VT-9 (which I could hear for the last couple of hours) was as treacherous as I’d remembered from my last visit (see OCT 2014).  Felt very relieved that I didn’t fall...  Made it to my car by 1015 (after just over 6 miles today for a total of almost 21 total miles).  Was glad to be done early and even happier to have finished such a long section.  Got cleaned up and then headed east on VT-9.  The drive was good and I had enough cell signal to communicate with the girls (they were happy that I was OK after not hearing from me for a few days).  I made it to I-91 and returned to my condo via I-89 (arrived at around 1230).  I’ve completed the entire southern half of the Long Trail (south of Killington), passed 1700 total AT miles and only have 17 miles left in Vermont.  Feeling a bit tired and sore but it was nice to get an overnight in the woods!  AT Today = 19.0 miles / Grand Total AT = 1707.3 miles / AT Left = 478.0 miles

Bennington, VT (USA)

With the leaves transitioning to brilliant reds, oranges and yellows, it seemed like a good time to hike one of the last AT sections I had left in Vermont.  The weather was forecasted to be on the warm side (mid 70s in the day, high 50s at night), making it an excellent weekend for overnight camping.  I left Elizabeth's house in Danby and drove south on US-7.  I got breakfast at McDonalds in Manchester (0735) and stopped for a bathroom break at the Vermont Visitor Center near Bennington a bit later.  I'd set up a shuttle ride with Vic (see MAY 2019 and JUL 2020) a week prior and we met up at the AT Trailhead on VT-9 at 0830.  The place was packed!  We then drove to the northeast (via VT-9, VT-100 and Stratton-Arlington Road).  The parking lot at the base of Stratton Mountain was also packed and there were lots of people heading north on the AT.  Fortunately, I was going in the opposite direction...  My hike started from the AT crossing of USFS-71 and I was SOBO by 0930.  The section essentially followed a long ridgeline for many miles.  This didn’t mean the hike was flat - it was far from that.  Still, starting from the north gave me the advantage of avoiding a long climb.  As I walked, I probably passed 50 people (!), an assortment of weekend hikers and multi-day backpackers.  As I suspected, though, the area didn’t have any Thru hikers...  Two pairs of SOBO hikers blew by me - I was happy to let them.  I stopped several times to discuss trail conditions and, as a result, my pace was slower than normal.  Of course, my 30 pound backpack could have impacted the speed even more...  After passing two shelters and transiting three or four “rollercoaster” hills, I found myself climbing up the north side of Glastenbury Mountain.  I’d heard about a fire tower at the top and I was really looking forward to climbing it.  When I arrived, though, I found an actual line of people waiting to go up!  Decided to skip it and headed down to the nearby shelter.  This was about the midpoint of the whole hike so I took a break with all the hikers who had already set up there for the evening.  It was great to meet so many people and hear their interesting stories!  After about a 30 minute break, I continued south.  There were a few more roller coasters during the next few hours and it became clear that I’d have trouble getting many more miles in before it got dark.  Fortunately, I had received a lot of good intel from the hikers and knew where to look for campsites.  By 1700, I was tired enough (my shoulders, back and feet had also reached their limit) to pull off the trail for the day and stopped at a little spot near the summit of Little Pond Mountain (near the 14 mile mark for my day).  It only took me about 30 minutes to set everything up and then I ate a light dinner.  It got dark very quickly after that.  As I was hanging my bear bag, I got quite a fright as a hiker passed close to me with no warning...  By 2000, I was in my tent for good.  During the day, I'd rarely had cell signal and had kept my phone in "airplane mode".  Before bed, I realized that I had signal from my campsite - it was nice to see that both Mollie and Erin had texted me but I didn’t answer (to save my phone battery).  It was pitch black outside - no moon was visible at all.  There was a bit of a breeze, but I could still hear occasional sounds of animals.  It felt great to be camping again!  I spent the evening reading and soon decided to go to sleep (2200).  Gonna finish the section in the morning!

Danby, VT (USA)

With the weather forecast looking very nice for a hike in southern Vermont, I coordinated a shuttle (with Vic) and asked Elizabeth if I could stage out of Danby the night before (she agreed).  I teleworked until around 1500 and then finished packing.  Got gas before leaving town (1525) and then used I-89 and I-91 to get out of the area.  Got off the Interstate at Ascutney and took back roads (VT-131, VT-100 and VT-103 to reach Wallingford.  From there, it was only a short distance to Danby.  I stopped (for the first time, after thinking about it for many years) for dinner at Otter Creek Fun Center (1800).  The people there were nice and made me a great (local, farm-to-table) meal.  I ate it on a picnic table in a big field that had great views of the Fall Foliage developing on Mount Tabor.  The weather was pleasant and I felt like I'd made a great decision to backpack the next day.  After I was done eating, I drove to Elizabeth's place and got ready for the following day.  Read a bit and then went to bed (2200).  Excited for tomorrow!

Windsor, VT (USA)

My dad was visiting and the weather looked very nice so I asked my customer if I could have a delayed start to my work day (he agreed).  Dad and I left my condo at around 0900 and we used NH-12A to reach the Plainfield area.  We first tried to visit some of the "U-Pick" farms there but I learned they were closed on Mondays.  Oh well...  We continued south until we reached the town of Cornish - my dad was interested in seeing the St. Gaudens NPS Site and we located elements of it ("Blow-Me-Down" Mill and the Artist Colony) easily.  We eventually found the main buildings and enjoyed a nice walk around the grounds.  There were amazing views of Ascutney (we learned it was one of the biggest "monadnocks" in the Northeast), lots of large sculptures (the most famous of which was the Robert Gould Shaw Memorial) and several interesting buildings (although all were closed).  My dad said he'd never been to the location but had always wanted to see it.  After about an hour, we drove across the Connecticut River (via an old covered bridge) into the town of Windsor, Vermont.  We explored the old buildings in town and found the train station.  Even more interesting, though, we located the building where the state of Vermont was formed during the American Revolution.  Dad enjoyed the history.  Nearby, we found some trails and walked around a small pond that had even better views of Ascutney.  We met some people (most were walking their dogs) and asked about the area.  One older gentleman was almost "overly" helpful - my dad thought it was great how everyone was so helpful and nice.  We drove a short distance to the Harpoon Brewery and had lunch (finished at 1220).  Overall, our excursion was pretty fun - we got some history, scenery, food and conversation.  Dad said he enjoyed the day - and I was happy to get a break before my telework day really began.

White River Junction, VT (USA)

I got done with work a bit early today and, even though it was pretty rainy, I decided I'd try (again) to find some new places where I could launch my kayak.  This time, I started much closer to home, looking at places near the Wilder Dam and at River Park in West Lebanon.  They appeared to have a bit of promise but I wondered if there might be something better on the other side of the river.  So I crossed into White River Junction (using Maple Street) and looked around near/under bridges on both sides of the White River.  Seemed like there might be some promising spots but I wasn't completely sure (no obvious parking signs).  I drove up the White River for a few miles on Mill Road and looked for launches off US-4 (no real luck).  Used the VA Cutoff Bridge (it was finally open for car traffic) and got on VT-14 (headed south).  I did find a promising location - the Watson Upper Valley Dog Park - that could be useful for kayaking.  Throughout the day, I saw people in the river (paddling) but I have no idea where they launched.  Just like my other exploratory trips in the area, I finished my search with some disappointment.  I suppose I shouldn't be too upset - on most Recce trips recently, it was so rainy I'd never have been able to get any paddling time.  Somehow, someday, I'll figure out how to kayak at will in my new home!

Maine Hiking Week - Day 9

Had an unexpected day of nice weather while I was still near the Whites!  I’d been thinking it would be raining on this, the last day of my hiking trip, for the whole week and I was a little unprepared.  Almost all the sections I have left in the area can only be accessed with a side trail and I really didn’t want to spend hours trying to get up to the AT and then have to immediately come back down.  Fortunately, I’d researched the Wildcat Ski area map previously and it seemed like a good day to explore the hiking opportunities there.  After checking out of the Rodeway Inn in Gorham (0745), I took a short drive (on NH-16) down to Wildcat.  I wasn't sure about the parking situation (would I get a ticket or towed?) but I got started up the slopes (Polecat Trails) at 0830.  It was chilly (low 40s) so I layered up (2) - but there wasn’t a cloud in the sky.  My climb gave me plenty of amazing views of The Presidentials (across Pinkham Notch).  Took my time climbing and got passed by an athletic trio - they seemed to be getting exercise.  For most of the climb, I kept having deja vu moments - I’d last skied here with my friend (Dave) way back in 1987 but the names of the ski trails and some landmarks had stuck in my brain for some reason...  It got warm enough that I was able to layer down on the way.  However, when I reached the Summit of the ski resort peak (“Wildcat D”) I had to layer up again - it was soooo windy!  Found the AT right at the top (there was even an information sign that looked vaguely familiar) and decided to rest there, considering my options.  I’d hiked about 2.6 miles by this point and I didn’t want to get too tired or hurt on a “bonus day.”  Actually, I felt like I really only needed a few miles of AT to make the day seem worthwhile.  Fortunately, there was another day hiker up there who had come up from Pinkham Notch - he told me how hard his climb had been and that he planned to go down the way I had climbed.  This made me wonder - if that AT section sucks, would it be worse going up or going down?  I decided to hike SOBO on the AT to learn the answer...  Unlike many of my other posts about my AT hiking days, I’m not going to try to describe the rest of the day.  Let’s just say that the three miles back to NH-16 were the worst terrain I’ve seen on the AT.  I really hated the hike - and feared for my safety all the way down.  It took lots of concentration to not kill myself.  I did stop to enjoy a few views and to talk to a few people who were coming up the other way - that helped a little.  I met a few Thru hikers (SOBO and NOBO) with more amazing stories of beating the COVID closures; boisterous locals who sounded like they were fighting with a smile on their faces, a young couple with a big dog and a baby in a backpack (yikes); and an older guy who told me he was climbing Wildcat to finish the last of his “NH 48s”.  I probably encountered 50 people!  All the conversation was a welcome break from the slippery, steep, rocky and sharp (pointy ends ready to jab).  But when I reached the blacktop I was so glad to be done that I never even thought about a backtrack...  Yuck!  Used NH-16 to get back to my car (it was only about a mile from Pinkham Notch) and finished my day (7.5 miles) at 1300.  Actually passed the day hiker I’d met on Wildcat D right before I was done and I thanked him for the good intel.  Glad I got those miles behind me - every little bit gets me closer to finishing!  Bittersweet ending to the week - I felt great and could have hiked many more days but had to head back to reality...  My drive home took me through some of the same route as my Recce trip in August: NH-16, US-302, Bear Notch Road, NH-112 (Kancamagus), NH-118, NH-25A, NH-10.  Most of this drive was uneventful - I arrived home by 1600.  What a great trip - nine days on the AT, almost 100 miles of hiking and lots of good memories!  AT Today = 2.0 miles / G.T. AT = 1688.3 miles / AT Left = 497.0 miles / NH 4000 Footer #5 of 48

Maine Hiking Week - Day 8

With a big AT milestone within my reach, I got up early with a hope of being one of the first cars at the trailhead (my experience with weekend crowds in the area over the last month made me worry a bit about parking). Picked up breakfast to go at the North Country General Store in Bingham (0700) and drove north on US-201.  It felt weird to be leaving Bingham for the last time - I’ve come to like this little town!  As I drove along the Kennebec, I got to witness a spectacular fog effect on the water - eerie!  (Wish I could have captured it on film but my camera wouldn’t cooperate).  Arrived the parking lot at 0745 and only found two cars there - the place was packed during my last visit (also a Saturday) but I guess the tourism really dropped off after Labor Day...  Started into the woods (eastbound, AT NOBO) - I was wearing two layers to keep me warm in the 40 degree weather.  The section was mostly uphill (gradual, fortunately) but I had one giant ravine to traverse in the middle - that made it a bit harder than what I’d seen during the previous few days.  But, like I have during all of the AT miles before these, I walked at a careful pace and successfully conquered the obstacles.  I passed a day hiker (opposite direction) on the outbound leg but otherwise had the trail to myself for almost three hours.  Turned around at Hangtown Road, layered down a level and immediately started the backtrack.  Made good time back to the ravine, descended again without falling and then powered back up the steep grade to the ridge above the Kennebec.  It occurred to me during the next few miles that I’d been hearing traffic (sort of a dull hum) on US-201 almost all day - what a difference from the last week!  Passed some trekking poles that were lying on the ground - they looked broken.  I didn't see anyone around the area and decided to carry them back to the parking lot - maybe someone was looking for them?  A nbit later, I encountered a young backpacker (“Sticks” or “Styx”) and ended up talking to him for about 15 minutes.  He was a LASHer who had just ferried across the river from the Pierce Pond area.  He said he was hiking the last (of four) long AT sections and was hoping to summit Katahdin on September 23.  Many of his experiences over the 2000+ miles he’d hiked (in 2011, 2012, 2019 and 2020) were similar to mine - it was really nice to learn about AT challenges and trail/life lessons.  He said he didn't know who the poles could belong too because he hadn't seen many hikers for a few days.  Eventually, I said goodbye to him and reluctantly resumed my walk towards the car...  Passed one more person (trail runner) and finished my hike at 1145 after 8 miles.  Cleaned up and then headed south on US-201.  Took some familiar roads across the area until I reached US-2 again - it felt strange to be around so many people and so much "hustle."  Decided to reward myself with a treat at Gifford's Famous Ice Cream in Farmington (1355) - the sundae really hit the spot!  I continued on US-2, towards New Hampshire, and realized I had a chance to visit the Sunday River Brewing Company in Bethel, a place I've passed several times but never patronized.  It wasn't as crowded as I've normally seen so I was able to park and get a spot at the bar.  I sampled one of their flights and watched football - eventually, I decided to get some food too.  Several of the other people at the bar were willing to talk to me and I learned about the state of Maine's handling of COVID-19 (and the rebel owner of the Brewery's attempts to stay open).  I also figured out that the bar was a "turnaround spot" for biker couples coming out of Portland.  Finished my "hiker reward" fun at 1730 and resumed my drive to the west.  Checked into Rodeway Inn in Gorham, NH (1800) and spent the rest of the evening reading and resting.  What a week in Maine!  The day began with the shortest hike of the week but it put me “over the top” - I’ve now got fewer than 500 AT miles to go!  AT Today = 4.0 miles / G.T. AT = 1686.3 miles / AT Left = 499.0 miles

Maine Hiking Week - Day 7

Rain came through Bingham overnight and dropped the morning temps into the low 40s - highs for the day were only expected in the low 60s.  I was up early and, after getting breakfast to go from North Country General Store in Bingham (0705), I headed northeast on ME-16.  When I checked Google and my NatGeo maps, there appeared to be a short (less than 30 miles), accessible route (via gravel roads) for me to return to Foss Pond (AKA Bald Mountain) Road.  However, the road at the actual AT trailhead was missing from online maps - I knew where it was and “dropped a pin” nearby as I left the area with cell coverage, hoping for the best.  Everything seemed to be going swimmingly until I got to mile 25.  There, I came upon a huge piece of heavy machinery in the road - a bridge was missing!  I’ve had enough of these situations so I didn’t such a setback didn’t phase me.  Still, I must admit I wasn’t happy to have to backtrack over 10 miles to pavement and then drive all the way around (counterclockwise circle via Monson) the entire area.  Then it occurred to me - my walk back from the same trailhead a few days earlier had given me actual intel of the road conditions so I only had to execute Plan B.  It took over an hour but Nessie got me to my destination (sans GPS) and I was able to get my hike started by 0930.  It was overcast, windy and still a bit cool (high 40s) so I layered up (2) before pushing west (AT SOBO) into Turkey woods.  Like every other day of the trip, there were tons of rocks, lots of roots, many fallen trees, an un-bridged river to ford and plenty of mud.  The Maine ATC did seem to have tried to make the section more pleasant - I was able to walk across a path of flat, even boulders in several places.  Passed three of the Thru hikers I’d seen a few days earlier - I wondered what happened to all the other Thrus (4) who were with them earlier...  Also passed a chatty lady with a small pack - I thought she was a section hiker like me until she explained how she was a slackpacking “Flip Flopper” (started in Shenandoah National Park).  She was supported by her “pit-crew” (husband) and this allowed her to travel lighter and faster (and enjoy the trip).  We exchanged information about the trail in both directions and I wished her well in her outdoor (and marital) adventure. Didn’t really see any wildlife but was constantly startled by grouses taking wing (*shiver*)...  The section was mostly flat - the terrain guide said there was a gradual incline all the way to Moxie Bald Lean-To but I really didn’t notice this.  After passing that landmark and the last glimpse of Bald Mountain Pond, the trail took a decidedly dramatic uphill direction.  After so many days on the trail, though, this didn’t even really get me down - I was actually looking forward to seeing the views from Moxie Bald again!  After about a mile of huffing and puffing, I reached a flat, rocky area with short, stubby trees - I was in the “saddle” between the two peaks of the Bald.  Like a few days earlier, the views were tremendous - I’m not 100% sure, but I believe I could see the very top of Katahdin (70+ miles away)!  It was warmer (high 50s?) up there so I layered down.  However, the wind was heavy enough to make me hold on to my hat!  I turned around at the Summit Bypass Trail (north end) and immediately started my backtrack.  The downhill was much easier, obviously, and I got back to my car much more quickly.  Didn’t see any people at all and just powered along so I could finish (I was a bit worried about the drive back to town).  Was back at my car by 1445 after almost 12 miles - felt really good and was happy to have closed the loop on this difficult-to-access section.  Started back towards civilization right away and, with a lot of careful driving, safely reached blacktop (whew!).  Along the way (near the outskirts of Blanchard), I actually encountered the older couple from Cape Cod I’d met a few days before and we chatted some more about life in the Piscataquis Valley.  Then I headed back to Bingham.  Had hoped to only have to drive 50ish miles today but my odometer showed over 100 because of the bridge that was missing (sorry, Nessie).  Ate a TV dinner in the room and then spent the evening reading and resting up for one more hike near the Kennebec tomorrow.  Bed at around 2215.  It’s been a great week!  AT Today = 5.8 miles / G.T. AT = 1682.3 miles / AT Left = 503.0 miles

Maine Hiking Week - Day 6

With rain in the forecast, I got an earlier start this morning.  It was misty and in the low 60s - everything was damp.  The good weather seemed to be limited so I decided to go back across the Kennebec to visit another trailhead I’d seen on the NatGeo planform.  The route there was easy - I used the same gravel roads as yesterday but took the northern fork of the split at Bowtown Road (became Otter Pond Road).  Had to dodge a huge tractor trailer logging truck (the lumber companies built the roads and have the right of way) on the way but didn’t see anyone else all morning.  Parked (no official lot) where the AT crossed the road near Pierce Pond and started west (AT SOBO) at 0815.  Immediately, I ran into the young Mainer (and his dog) I’d walked with yesterday - five minutes later and I would have missed them.  The hiker was feeling content after eating a huge pancake breakfast at Harrison’s Camp (nearby) and his dog was racing around chasing squirrels.  We parted again with “have a nice life” and I soon felt like the woods belonged to me.  I did see one other hiker (Thru?) near the junction for the side trail to Harrison’s but we never got close enough to talk.  The trail near the lake and Lean-To (Shelter) was rocky, rooty and muddy (what’s new) and I really had to watch my feet.  But I wasn’t prepared for fording the stream...  My six year old “AWOL” AT Guide said that there was a wooden dam that I could use to cross the Pierce Pond Stream but I saw no evidence of it - instead, I had to put my boots on moss covered rocks that were submerged and hope I didn’t fall into the water.  About half way across, I thought “wait, I’m going to have to do this again” and I wondered if I had two successful crossings in me...  Feet still wet, I continued my hike along the compound-bow-shaped (terrain wise) section.  For the whole morning, I found myself jumping over muddy pits, climbing over fallen trees, and chasing a series of white blazes that rarely seemed to line straight up in the distance.  Intermittently, the sound of raindrops picked up and I was glad that the canopy overhead shielded me from the worst of the precipitation.  About halfway out, I passed a Thru hiker (I saw his light blue tag) who was standing still with “the first cell signal in days”, talking to his significant other.  Otherwise, it was just me, my churning legs and my weighty day-pack...  It felt good to reach the Carrying Place Road (where I started yesterday) earlier than expected and I immediately started my backtrack without a break.  Felt like I made better time on the way back towards the car and I began to imagine I’d finish my day very early.  Just then, I encountered a young guy who told me he was a SOBO Thru hiker.  As we talked, I realized he was actually one of the group of five smiling youngsters I’d passed at the base of Moxie Bald a few days before.  The rest of the merry band showed up shortly later and they were still all smiles (16 days since leaving Katahdin).  I discovered that they had all been strangers on a rafting trip in August and learned their colleges were going to do Virtual only semesters.  Since they’d miss out on lots of college fun, they decided to take each take Gap Years and hike the AT together.  Since they no longer had deadlines, they were taking their time - they’d spent the previous afternoon swimming in waterfalls after crossing the Kennebec and had gotten a late start because of a 12-pancake breakfast at Harrison’s.  What a story they’ll have when it’s all done!  I reluctantly left their youthful energy and made my way back to the road, successfully fording the stream again and arriving at the car after about 9.5 miles.  Since it wasn’t raining yet (the sun had even started to peek out a little), it occurred to me then that I could cut off some of the distance of the section on the other side of the road if I kept going.  This would make it easier to use the Kennebec Ferry (only runs from 0900 to 1400, during the summer) in the future and only have to hike around two miles before turning back.  I walked for about a mile along the Pierce Pond Stream - first, I was at eye level with several pretty waterfalls but the cascades eventually dropped at least 100 feet below.  I found a good landmark (wooden bridge across a small stream) and then retraced my steps to the car, arriving at 1330 after almost 12 miles.  By then, it was warmer (high 70s) but dry - forecasters missed again, I guess.  Thought about going over to Harrison’s myself but decided to head back to Bingham to rest and recover (I’ve got a second blister).  Cleaned up and read in my room for part of the afternoon.  At 1730, I drove a short distance (south on US-201) to get some groceries at Jimmy's Shop & Save in Bingham.  It was damp/drizzly when I got back to my car - decided I might as well fill up the gas tank (right next door at Sunoco).  It might sound boring, but I spent the evening in my room again (with my book and a TV dinner).  Had some communications with the kids and watched a bit of TV (movies) before heading to bed (2230).  Felt pretty good, all things considered, after my sixth day on the AT - hoping to keep the good vibes going with some more miles tomorrow!  AT Today = 5.9 miles / G.T. AT = 1676.5 miles]

Maine Hiking Week - Day 5

Decided to check out the AT access on the west side of the Kennebec today.  This was one of the reasons I chose Bingham as my HQ this week: they have a strategically placed bridge!  I followed the motel owner’s advice and got a hearty breakfast at the North Country General Store in Bingham (0745) and then took ME-16 across the river.  During my scouting trip last month, I’d gotten discouraged about the long sections with little (or no) road access - for most of the rest of the AT, I’ve been able to chop off four to five mile sections and it didn’t look like it would work in Maine.  Today, I’m happy to say that I’m starting to change my opinion - the gravel roads within 30 miles of Bingham are easily passable and well marked.  After thinking that, though, I managed to overshoot the AT crossing on Scott Road (AKA Carrying Place Road)...  Fortunately, I realized I had gone too far (about four miles) when I noticed some road names (from my NatGeo guide) that were closer to Flagstaff Lake.  Backtracking, I found the trail (almost invisible).  I had to park at a nearby road junction because there was no designated lot but was able to get started west (AT SOBO) by 0920.  It was overcast but warm (mid 60s) and the ground was muddy from some light rain overnight.  The trail guides showed this section to be relatively flat and (for once) reality lived up to expectations.  I got a good taste of solitude in the first few miles - at times, it was so quiet I felt like I was the last person on the planet.  Otherwise, I heard the sounds of wildlife on the ground (grouse, red squirrels, chipmunks) and in the trees (hawks, songbirds).  By the second mile, I started passing Thru hikers - I counted 10 for the day (encountered all during the outbound).  Snapshots: a pair of lady hikers bemoaning the ubiquitous cobwebs across the trail (“we cleared them all for you”); a solo dude who kept making random “Mario sounds”; a lady hiker soaking her feet in a pond; some grizzled older men and some energetic youngsters.  Everyone greeted me and a few even stopped to ask questions or answer mine.  In between, I followed what I later learned (signs everywhere) was the exact route of the 1775 Arnold Expedition (Invasion of Canada).  The names everywhere (Great Carrying Place, East Carry Pond, West Carry Pond, etc.) were a silent memorial to hardy patriots who crossed 350 miles of wilderness with inaccurate maps...  I enjoyed the views and made really good time across the mostly flat (plus roots and rocks) terrain.  I turned around (without a break) at the West Carry Pond Lean-To and spent almost the entire backtrack alone, spaced neatly within the Thru hiker “Bubble.”  There was one other person on the trail with me - just before the midpoint, I passed a young guy with a friendly dog and had assumed he was far ahead.  Unbeknownst to me, though, he’d stopped off trail for a snack and I passed him again.  As I passed Middle Road, the dog caught up and walked along with me until his human companion joined us.  We then all walked together for about a mile, talking about the trail and resupply opportunities.  I learned the guy was a local (“Western Maine”) who decided he’d lived in the area long enough that he “needed” to hike the 270+ AT miles of his home state to “see what the fuss was all about.”  It was nice to walk with him and the dog for a while but we reached a gravel road that I was 99% sure would take me to the car (and cut off about half a mile of backtrack) - decided to part ways with him (as I’ve heard many times in situations like these, the farewell was “have a nice life”).  My instinct about the alternate route proved correct and I reached the car much more quickly than I’d expected (after walking in the warm sun for about 45 minutes).  Finished my day at 1330 after hiking over 11 miles at a pretty good pace.  Actually, this was the first day of the trip when I didn’t feel sore or tired - seems like a good sign!  I headed back to Bingham and spent the entire evening in my room - I had plenty of food to snack on and my book was interesting.  Did a bit of chatting with the girls and went to bed at around my "normal" time (2200).  Rain is coming but I hope to get some more miles in tomorrow. AT Today = 5.8 miles / G.T. AT = 1670.6 miles

Maine Hiking Week - Day 4

Last night, I was telling one of my daughters how hard it is to hike during the Fall - the weather is on the edge of changing but hasn’t made up its mind.  As a result, I’ve got to carry far more in my day pack than I did just 30 days ago - warm clothes, extra food, emergency gear, etc.  My back doesn’t like the additional weight but, as I’d seen the day before, the Maine mountain weather can change in an instant - it’s much better to be safe than sorry!  This morning I left Bingham a bit later than I’d planned and that put me into the “hotter” range of temperatures for this week (60s to 80s) for the hike.  Not wanting to kill myself with distance (blister on toe) or exertion (up/down/up), I chose a section that started near the southern end of Moxie Pond (Troutdale Road).  This trailhead was only about 20 miles from town on a series of gravel roads and I didn’t have trouble finding it.  Started NOBO at 0930 - this involved a leisurely walk on the road I’d traveled until I reached a turn off towards the east.  There, I got to ford another bridgeless river (“Dangerous Crossing with High Water”) - fortunately, there were lots of big rocks to use.  After that, the trail was mostly uphill, although I noted that the terrain was much smoother than yesterday’s supposed “flat” grade...  About a mile into my day, I passed a crowd of young people - smiles on every face - and asked them what the view was like from Moxie Bald.  They reported spectacular vistas and this energized my gradual climb.  Actually, these were the last people I saw for over three hours - I guess I found a gap between Thru hiker bubbles...  After I passed the Bald Mountain Brook Lean To (didn’t stop), the trail turned decidedly steep as I made my way up the southwest side of the mountain.  In places, the trail crossed what looked like one continuous rock (all the dirt was worn away).  Fortunately, the rock wasn’t wet...  After passing the Summit Bypass Trail junction, I had to use my hands a lot more to navigate the rooty/rocky surface of the AT.  Slowly, I made my way around the south, then east and then west side (again) of Moxie Bald.  Eventually, I found myself exposed to the elements on a huge rocky face with few trees.  Moxie Bald dominated the nearby landscape and gave me the feeling I was flying above the clouds - wow!  It was a bit windy but wasn’t cold.  The views up there were tremendous!  For one thing, I wouldn’t call it Moxie “Pond” - the water stretched north for miles.  I could see many other bodies of water and distant mountains to the west.  I had to leave the AT to visit the actual summit and got to see obviously well-named Bald Mountain to the north.  After admiring the view, I made my way down on the east side and was treated to a stunning panorama of Bald Mountain Pond far below, as well as the Piscataquis Valley (where I hiked yesterday).  When I reached the other end of the Summit Bypass Trail, I got off the AT to go around the north side of the mountain (followed blue blazes).  After about half a mile, I rejoined then AT and started my backtrack to the car.  I must say that I really got a good tour of Moxie Bald - it was well worth the climb!  I made good time going downhill and was glad to be in the shade again because the temps continued to rise (it was 80 when I finished).  Managed to jab a dead tree limb into my shoulder as I was clambering around some rocks - ouch!  While I noticed evidence of moose again, the only wildlife (besides birds) I actually saw was a snake (garter?).  About a mile from the road, I passed a solo female Thru hiker - like the ones I saw yesterday, she was in a hurry.  Arrived back at my car by 1400 after about 10 miles (the signs, trail guides and my pedometer all had different distances so I split the difference).  I was sweaty, tired, hurting (back and toe) but felt good again about getting some more trail miles.  I drove back to Bingham and, after getting cleaned up (I also cleaned Nessie with some of the ATV towels in my hotel room), I headed north on US-201 until I found a place (Valley View Pizza and Subs) to eat.  It looked more like a little grocery store but the guy at the register told me he could make a Buffalo Chicken pizza for me and pointed at some picnic tables where I could wait.  I purchased a Natty Daddy(1745) to keep me company and went outside.  There were pets roaming free and I wasn't bored - before long, the man behind the register came out with a delicious-looking pie and I scarfed it down quickly.  The owner and his daughter talked with me for a while about their business and life in the Kennebec River Valley.  It seemed like I picked a perfect time to visit the area, since the busy months were in the summer and the winter.  Felt good and full after I was done eating and headed back to my room.  More reading and relaxing (with some communication with the kids) before bed (2200).  Hopefully, I can keep getting lucky with weather and views!  AT Today = 5.0 miles / G.T. AT = 1664.8 miles

Maine Hiking Week - Day 3

I got a good night's sleep and got out of bed raring to go!  Forecast said sunny and in the 70s but when I looked out the window, it was raining and in the 40s.  Fortunately, I was warm and dry in my hotel and had planned to do some driving anyway.  I checked out of the Comfort Inn in Wilton at 0740 and drove a short distance to the east on US-2.  I stopped to do some shopping (mostly snacks) at Walmart in Farmington and was finished at about 0815.  It was raining REALLY hard when I got back to my car - I was drenched and everything was wet.  But then I made things even worse with my attempt to pour a drink (from a newly purchased bottle of "Mr. Pibb").  Let's just say that things "went awry" and I ended up with a soda explosion in the car - what a mess!  It took a while to clean up Nessie and the rain continued without a break.  With few comfortable options for a pleasant hike, I decided to drive to the northeast to a hiking zone near Monson, even though I expected that the weather would follow me (and it did).  The route (US-2, ME-27, ME-234, US-201A and US-201 to Bingham) was very familiar because I used it last time I was in Maine - but the low ceilings and cold/wet was definitely a downer...  One highlight: I got to witness a mass exodus of Labor Day tourists - the roads going south were clogged with fleeing vacationers while I was the lone vehicle going north.  The weather improved slightly when I switched to ME-16 - but I really began to wonder if I was going to be denied a pleasant day.  Took ME-6 and then Pond Road (became Barrow Falls and then Abbot Road) to the little town of Blanchard.  I’d last hiked in the area (from Monson to the Shirley-Blanchard Road crossing) in 2014 so I had to look around a bit for a place to park - fortunately, I got the last spot in the AT Lot.  It was still raining by then (1015) and the temps were in the low 50s.  Undeterred, I left my car (SOBO) wearing a long sleeved shirt and plunged into the wet forest, with only the high canopy to keep off the rain drops.  The AWOL and NatGeo guide books both indicated this was generally a flat (slight incline) section.  Within the first mile, I figured out why: it paralleled the Piscataquis River.  I actually had to clamber over a beaver-dam-like “bridge” just to keep following it - didn’t fall in!  Started to meet hikers soon after that (some Thru, some weekenders).  One lady started talking to me and never took a breath - I now know more about her life than almost anyone else I’ve ever passed on the AT!  Somehow, I got back to hiking...  The trail initially lived up to its billing, terrain-wise, and it was pleasant to stroll along with the sound of rushing water.  The sun tried to peek out of the clouds a few times but it mostly stayed overcast.  When I neared the Horseshoe Canyon Shelter, I learned how it got the name - the trail took a decidedly “not flat” turn and I soon found myself looking down on the river from several hundred feet above.  That gave me some great views before the trail returned to water level and I resumed my easy stroll.  My day started to get harder after that, though - there were six more up/downs like that in the next three miles and I was cursing the Trail Designer through every one!  Eventually, the roller coaster “fun” ended and I walked on a flat section for a while.  But then the trail disappeared!  I came to a clearing next to the river and I couldn’t tell where to go.  Then I looked on the back side of a tree on the water’s edge and saw a white blaze - Son of a...  Like my earlier crossing, there was no bridge - unlike before, though, there was no beaver dam (just little rocks).  And I had to cross TWO arms of the river to reach dry land!  It was only then that the warnings on the trail maps about “Dangerous Crossing at High Water” made sense...  The next few miles were mostly flat (finally!) but I had to navigate through a few morasses near the edge of the river.  Started seeing Thru hikers in this area - at least five passed me and they were all in a hurry (trying to reach Monson?).  By the time I reached the first sign of civilization in almost four hours (Foss Pond Road AKA Bald Mountain Road), I was really tired.  Took a break for some lunch by the road and a couple of locals (on their way to do some kayaking) stopped to chat with me.  They gave me the impression I could easily walk all the way back to Blanchard on Taylor/Perkins Road.  Since I was no longer in the mood for PUDs, I decided to give that route a try (plus, I could scout out road quality for my next hike).  My pace significantly increased on the backtrack and I was able to cover roughly the same distance (over 7.5 miles) as the outbound leg in about two thirds of the time.  The wind kicked up and, even though the sun finally appeared, it was “just right” with my long sleeve (still 50s?).  I only saw a few people on the road - a man searching for brass in an empty lot, two ladies doing road cleanup and (when I finally reached town) an older local couple out for a stroll.  I chatted with the latter pair for a little while (they were originally from Cape Cod) and then resumed my walk through town.  The last mile was (finally) on blacktop and I reached my car at 1645.  I’d covered well over 16 miles and was relieved to sit down for the first time in 6.5 hours.  Decided to drive back to towards the Kennebec River for the night (more choices for AT hikes) and had a nicer drive (with pretty sunset views of Sugarloaf to the west) than the morning.  When I got to Bingham, I found a little spot (Bingham Motor Inn) just off US-201.  When I checked with the manager, I found out the prices were extremely low ("the season just ended") and decided to get a room for the next five days (1705).  Felt good when I unpacked in the room - it's nice not to have to keep moving around and Bingham seemed like a good headquarters for the week.  Spent the evening reading and texting with the kids.  Bed was at around 2200 again.  Glad I fit in the hike today, despite all the obstacles in my way - once again, it took more mental toughness than physical stamina to complete the section.  But I do have a blister on my foot now - that may "help" to determine my plans for the next few days...  AT Today = 7.7 miles / G.T. AT = 1659.8 miles

Maine Hiking Week - Day 2

The weather was great again today!  After waking up early and checking out (automated process) from my hotel, I drove a short distance and ate a delicious breakfast at the Crossroads Diner in Bethel (0830).  Feeling satisfied, I drove up US-2 to the intersection of ME-26. From there, it was a nice drive north into Grafton Notch State Park.  I looked around at the AT Trailhead and admired the view - the high peaks of the Mahoosuc Range looked very daunting!  Decided not to tackle that section today and, instead, drove (via gravel roads) into the woods to the northeast.  After driving in the dust for a while, it was a pleasant surprise to find that the East B Hill Road, which I wanted to take, was brand new blacktop.  I found the AT Trailhead a bit farther south and headed NOBO by 0930.  The temps started in the low 60s, so I wore a T-shirt (carried more clothes).  Within 100 yards of the road, I passed a lady backpacker who had been out overnight.  After that, though, I didn’t see any people for over three hours.  It was just as well - I had my hands full with concentration and “watch your step” on the challenging terrain.  Unlike yesterday, this section was mostly a big (2000+ feet) climb, with several drops/re-climbs of greater than 500 feet.  The surface was rocky, muddy, rooty and wet - just like lots of other Maine terrain I’ve seen before.  Within two miles, I’d climbed high and then given it all back to reach Surplus Pond.  Right after passing that peaceful place, I was climbing up another steep hill.  Somehow, I made it to the wide summit of Wyman Mountain and was treated to some fine views to the north.  The trees obscured enough that I really couldn’t get a good picture but the map said I was looking at the sprawling Richardson (and, possibly, Rangeley) lake systems - wow!  Soon after, I was headed downhill again...  I started to see more views as I resumed my climb up Hill Mountain - the mountain pathway of the AT was evident to the northeast.  My pace was apparently slow enough that I was really wondering where the shelter (my target at six miles from the car) was at the three hour mark.  It was then that I encountered the first person in a long time - a lady who was filling up her water bottles and warned me about her two unfriendly dogs.  I continued, a bit nervous, until I found the (very small) canines tied to the shelter wall - fortunately, another person held the “vicious beasts” back until I had started my backtrack...  Within the next 30 minutes, I ended up meeting five Thru hikers: a young couple (chasing their Bubble friends), a solo guy named “Treebeard” (from Pittsburgh, started from Pine Grove Furnace) and two of the tallest lady hikers I’ve ever seen.  Every one of them was in good spirits and I chatted with them for a bit (with Treebeard the longest).  These delays distracted me from the hard work of the climb, descend, climb (etc.)...  It got warmer (70s?) during the backtrack and I had to fight a lot of negative thoughts about the Trail Designer as I tripped and slogged my way back towards the car.  Eventually, I made it to an easier part of the walk across Wyman Mountain and encountered an older couple - they were debating whether they were at the summit.  I didn’t feel like being a tiebreaker but suggested they’d found the best place to call the top - and then started down towards Surplus Pond.  The rest of the hike was a blur - somehow I made all the right steps (didn’t fall!) and didn’t stop a lot.  I eventually (1535) found the road - what a welcome sight!  This 12 miles was much harder fought and won than yesterday’s “tour” through the Whites - I feel good about powering through it.  Headed southeast on East B Hill Road until I found the town of Andover and then drove back to Rumford on ME-120 and ME-17.  It was pretty early so I explored US-2 as I drove north. Picked up a sandwich (for the next day) at Subway in Mexico (1630) and later bought dinner at Burger King in Farmington (1710).  Ate in the car and then backtracked to Wilton - checked into the Comfort Inn (reward night!) at 1730.  Took a swim in the hotel pool, hoping it would help rejuvenate my “old man” body again - I will need it for the hiking in the morning!  Reading in my room and bed by 2200.  AT Today = 6.0 miles / G.T. AT = 1652.1 miles

Maine Hiking Week - Day 1

Left my house at 0700 this morning for a week of AT hiking - very excited! I used a lot of back roads to reach the White Mountains and stopped for breakfast at McDonalds in Lincoln (0810).  After a bit more driving, I ended up in Franconia Notch (on I-93) - I almost stopped to hike there because the weather was so spectacular!  But I really wanted to explore the area north and east of there so took US-3 and US-302 and checked out some AT access points (Haystack and Zealand).  There were SO many people everywhere I went - despite my early departure I got worried that I’d never be able to park...  In the end, I got lucky - when I reached the AT crossing at Crawford Notch, there were plenty of spots (because of another big lot nearby).  Left my car at 0930 and walked north (AT SOBO) towards the Ethan Pond area.  It was chilly (low 50s with a stiff breeze) so I layered up (2) at the start.  There weren’t any clouds at all, though.  On the way uphill (initially on a paved road), I noticed a sign that apologized for the fact that social distancing would be difficult (SMH).  Passed a railroad track (will have to figure out what that is later) and then started a nearly 2000 foot climb to reach the ridge.  The trail was rocky, rooty and muddy - typical New England AT.  Passed lots of families who had come to hike to Ridley Falls and one adventurous one that planned to camp at the Pond.  Actually, there were so many people out for the day that I lost count - I may have seen 100 people within three miles of US-302 but, fortunately, only a handful farther away from the road.  After mastering the climb (within the first two miles), I settled into a rhythm on a long, flat section.  When I passed the sign for the shelter, the distance to the Zealand Hut made me consider hiking that far.  After putting one foot in front of the other for a few more miles, I was convinced that it would be possible and kept on going.  To the north, I saw Mount Willey - much higher elevation than I was but (for some reason) not on the AT.  Actually, I was stunned by how flat the trail was - haven’t seen anything like that in a long time...  Hadn’t tried a 15+ miles day in a while, either, and I was really careful of my footing  all day.  Was able to peel off a layer while I was on the ridge - still felt cooler than the last visit to the area.  Passed several backpackers after the five mile (outbound mark) - almost none of them were AT Thru hikers (one trail runner lady went by too fast to query).  Highlight of the day was reaching a place where I could see the Zeacliff - breathtaking view (and a bit worrisome, since I may have to climb it one day)!  I reached my turnaround point (Zealand Trail Junction) and stopped for a snack.  Several other people passed by while I was resting and gave me intel on the Zealand Parking and Trail (so I can access the area from the north next time).  After a little while, I headed back towards my car.  Took my time, both to preserve my fragile bones and so I could chat with all the people I met on the way.  The short conversations ranged from an unfortunate encounter with a Masshole Mom, a rousing cheer with two female Nationals Fans (I was wearing my bottle top popper hat), camping stories from a young family and (later) a trio of college guys.  Also shot the breeze with Jared / AKA “Wander” (from Georgia), who’d started his 2020 Thru from Glasgow, Virginia.  We traded a lot of good stories and encouraged each other to get done with the Trail.  After leaving him, I felt pretty good - it really helped me to finish the day.  By the time I reached the descent point, the sun had dropped low enough that it was dusk in the trees.  Like I’ve seen on almost every hike this summer, I saw more masks the later the day went... My feet started to hurt a lot but I kept going until I saw Nessie - I was finished (after almost 16 miles) by 1615.  This was a great hike to start my trip - somehow, I was able to get a long section done while half of the tourists in the Northeast were just a few miles away! Got cleaned up and headed towards my vacation destination - Maine or Bust!  Used US-302 to reach NH-16 and then drove north.  As I approached the Pinkham Notch Visitors Center, I noticed a lot of cars and pedestrians - I parked to see what the commotion was and saw that they were all watching a mother moose and her calf (right next to the road).  That was an unexpected treat!  Continued north until I got on US-2 - from there, it was an easy drive into Maine.  I ate snacks I'd packed for "dinner" on the way and also took some photos (road signs, rainbow) to send to the kids.  I reached my destination, the Mountain Village Lodge, at around 1900 and followed the automated check in process (very easy without any management on site).  I texted with the girls (I also told them a bit about my itinerary so they wouldn't worry) and spoke with Mollie on the phone for a little while.  Otherwise, I relaxed and read in my room until I was ready for bed (2200).  So glad to be back in the Pine Tree State!  AT Today = 7.6 miles / Grand Total AT = 1646.1 miles

Lebanon, NH (USA)

After several days of rain, I finally had a chance to explore the trails near the Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center again.  It had been a few weeks since I last tried to locate the Boston Lot and that had given me time to study the rudimentary maps I had.  Decided to drive to the south side of the Hospital Complex and park (0830) at the trailhead I’d seen there and hike up a gravel road that (apparently) spawned some other trails.  After reaching the top of the hill, though, I found the water tower I’d expected but no trail signs.  Backtracked a short distance and noticed a tree with a white over blue black.  Tentatively walked into the woods there and found myself at a sort of “Narnia Lamp Post” for the Boston Lot.  Signage and trail maps increased significantly and I was able to navigate more easily.  Most of the trails were for mountain bikes but I found a few for pedestrians only.  As I made my way west, I encountered the junction for the Indian Ridge Trail that starts in my neighborhood - that would have gotten me into the zone a lot easier...  Eventually located another junction that clearly provides access to the Lake (the water was visible through the trees) and I reached my target.  It was a perfectly isolated patch of land - I couldn’t have been more than two miles from a road but it felt like I was in the middle of a huge swath of wilderness.  Decided to walk around the lake (counterclockwise) and was not disappointed with the trail, solitude or scenery.  I noticed that all the trails had the same blazes - a hiker needed to read the name of the branch to know where to go.  I eventually reached an earthen levee on the southwest side of the lake, which I thought was the dam that all the signs referenced.  However, I learned later that the “Wilder Dam” was actually on the Connecticut River and could be accessed by using a gravel road that I found during my walk.  I met some people (young couple with dog) in that area and they told me there was a parking lot nearby (on NH-10).  After that, I completed my circuit of the lake (muddy, rocky and hilly) and retraced my steps to the car - mission accomplished!  There were lots of places to have a nice picnic or even camp near the lake.  I backtracked through the woods and the water tower access road and finished the hike at around 1030.  Today’s walk reinforced the idea that I need to keep trying out different trails near my new home - the complex system will take years to explore!