Decided to check out the AT access on the west side of the Kennebec today. This was one of the reasons I chose Bingham as my HQ this week: they have a strategically placed bridge! I followed the motel owner’s advice and got a hearty breakfast at the North Country General Store in Bingham (0745) and then took ME-16 across the river. During my scouting trip last month, I’d gotten discouraged about the long sections with little (or no) road access - for most of the rest of the AT, I’ve been able to chop off four to five mile sections and it didn’t look like it would work in Maine. Today, I’m happy to say that I’m starting to change my opinion - the gravel roads within 30 miles of Bingham are easily passable and well marked. After thinking that, though, I managed to overshoot the AT crossing on Scott Road (AKA Carrying Place Road)... Fortunately, I realized I had gone too far (about four miles) when I noticed some road names (from my NatGeo guide) that were closer to Flagstaff Lake. Backtracking, I found the trail (almost invisible). I had to park at a nearby road junction because there was no designated lot but was able to get started west (AT SOBO) by 0920. It was overcast but warm (mid 60s) and the ground was muddy from some light rain overnight. The trail guides showed this section to be relatively flat and (for once) reality lived up to expectations. I got a good taste of solitude in the first few miles - at times, it was so quiet I felt like I was the last person on the planet. Otherwise, I heard the sounds of wildlife on the ground (grouse, red squirrels, chipmunks) and in the trees (hawks, songbirds). By the second mile, I started passing Thru hikers - I counted 10 for the day (encountered all during the outbound). Snapshots: a pair of lady hikers bemoaning the ubiquitous cobwebs across the trail (“we cleared them all for you”); a solo dude who kept making random “Mario sounds”; a lady hiker soaking her feet in a pond; some grizzled older men and some energetic youngsters. Everyone greeted me and a few even stopped to ask questions or answer mine. In between, I followed what I later learned (signs everywhere) was the exact route of the 1775 Arnold Expedition (Invasion of Canada). The names everywhere (Great Carrying Place, East Carry Pond, West Carry Pond, etc.) were a silent memorial to hardy patriots who crossed 350 miles of wilderness with inaccurate maps... I enjoyed the views and made really good time across the mostly flat (plus roots and rocks) terrain. I turned around (without a break) at the West Carry Pond Lean-To and spent almost the entire backtrack alone, spaced neatly within the Thru hiker “Bubble.” There was one other person on the trail with me - just before the midpoint, I passed a young guy with a friendly dog and had assumed he was far ahead. Unbeknownst to me, though, he’d stopped off trail for a snack and I passed him again. As I passed Middle Road, the dog caught up and walked along with me until his human companion joined us. We then all walked together for about a mile, talking about the trail and resupply opportunities. I learned the guy was a local (“Western Maine”) who decided he’d lived in the area long enough that he “needed” to hike the 270+ AT miles of his home state to “see what the fuss was all about.” It was nice to walk with him and the dog for a while but we reached a gravel road that I was 99% sure would take me to the car (and cut off about half a mile of backtrack) - decided to part ways with him (as I’ve heard many times in situations like these, the farewell was “have a nice life”). My instinct about the alternate route proved correct and I reached the car much more quickly than I’d expected (after walking in the warm sun for about 45 minutes). Finished my day at 1330 after hiking over 11 miles at a pretty good pace. Actually, this was the first day of the trip when I didn’t feel sore or tired - seems like a good sign! I headed back to Bingham and spent the entire evening in my room - I had plenty of food to snack on and my book was interesting. Did a bit of chatting with the girls and went to bed at around my "normal" time (2200). Rain is coming but I hope to get some more miles in tomorrow. AT Today = 5.8 miles / G.T. AT = 1670.6 miles
