The great weather followed me north to Erwin, TN, where I stayed last night. This put me only eight miles from the AT and gave me the option of completing my last “marooned” section in the South. The hike was going to involve climbing/descending (times two!) another 5K’ peak (my fourth in four days) so I had mixed emotions about the effort required... Still, I was glad to have the opportunity to hike. I woke up at 0545 but didn't rush to get ready. Instead, I actually ate breakfast (provided by management on the sly). Brenna called to tell me about how things were going at her school and we talked for a little while. I checked out of the hotel (0730) and drove to Indian Grave Gap (TN-107). Actually, I was annoyed about the section because it wouldn’t have been cut off at all if the gate for the Unaka Mountain Road wasn’t always closed. In over six years of visiting Indian Grave Gap Trailhead, though, I’d never seen it open. That changed today - I arrived at the beginning at around 0745 and was so excited/relieved to see the gate open that I had to remind myself repeatedly to take it easy on the low-clearance Altima as I climbed the steep gravel road. The alternative to this bonus prize was to hike an extra two miles before being able to count new AT miles. I found the place where I’d turned around the last time I’d climbed the hill (Beauty Spot) and was hiking NOBO by 0800. Temps were in the low 60s already but you’d never know it - the overcast was being blown through by a strong wind and there was almost no cover. I reluctantly wore my light jacket (which felt too warm) buy was glad I had it after I started my climb. Before that, though, I encountered a problem - as I descended from the trailhead, I realized that I had parked a lot farther from the base of Unaka Mountain than the map showed I should be. It was then that I realized I’d incorrectly recorded the mileage of the last turn point. End result: at least one extra mile (in each direction) - now I was REALLY glad I had access to the road! There was no use crying over spilled milk so I kept going and soon found myself powering up the southeastern side of Unaka Mountain. The clouds were thick and damp - I spent a lot of time in the mist and it really cooled down my body temps. The AT crisscrossed the NC/TN border continuously - I never knew which state I was in except in a few places where North Carolina had identified their Game Lands. There were no views. Just before the summit, I encountered a lady backpacker and her dog (they’d spent the night on the mountain). We chatted briefly and then I resumed my hike. Soon, I found myself in the midst of a dense spruce forest that seemed to go on for miles - it was like something out of a horror movie! It took a while, but I eventually came out of the trees and fog and found some sunshine on the northeastern side of the mountain. But then I descended almost 1500 feet into Low Gap - it was quite depressing to know that I’d have to reclimb all of that... At this point, I realized that my pedometer appeared to be working for once and that my estimate of an extra mile was pretty close - I was able to predict, within about 0.2 miles, where the Cherry Gap Shelter (my turnaround point) would be. I was planning to start the backtrack immediately but encountered a SOBO Thru Hiker (no flip flopping or COVID-19 breaks). I really wanted to talk to him and have a hiking buddy but he seemed to want his solitude. So I took a shortcut back to the AT and headed towards the car. Meanwhile, the Thru hiker actually walked back to the place where he’d left the trail before stopping... For the next few miles, he hung back about 50 yards and I could see him each time we swapped directions on the switchbacks. Eventually (1000 feet into the climb?), I stopped to let him go by and he promptly disappeared into the rhododendron tunnels in front of me. By then, though, I was exhausted and walked quite slowly all the way to the spruce forest. The clouds had dissipated and I did get to see some views on the way back down Unaka. One landmark - a huge field on the opposite peak - looked like something I’d crossed through in the morning. But it looked so far away (and so high above the valley below) that I couldn’t convince myself it was my destination. But it was... The only thing to lift my spirits at that point, though, was when a mom with a baby on her back, along with their loyal Lab, passed me going uphill - it was smiles and waves all around. When I reached the bottom of the valley, I found that the gravel road was only about 20 feet away so I cut over there to walk the rest of the way. I passed the Thru hiker one more time (he was taking a break and seemed more talkative but now I wasn’t). The road took a decidedly steep direction and I had to use all of the rest of my strength to get to the top. It got busy during this time, with three cars passing me and two cyclists following me on the hill. It was funny that I, the pedestrian, was able to stay in front for a while (one of the bikers told me he wished we had a string so I could pull him). Before long, however, I was alone again and soon finished up my day (1315). It was tough to tell from the maps and pedometers but I’m pretty sure I walked about 12 miles - it may also have been the hardest hike of the last week. But I’m glad I finished the section! Changed clothes and backtracked to Erwin. Bought late lunch at McDonalds (1345) and decided to eat in the parking lot (took care of texts, emails). Later, drove north on I-26 to I-81 and continued into Virginia. Got gas at Love's in Meadowview (1600) and drove a bit farther, checking into the Travel Inn in Marion by 1645. Talked to the owners (they remembered me) about the impacts of COVID-19 on their business. Spent the evening cleaning, re-packing, organizing. Did some telework (to catch up on things I missed for the last several days) and then made some phone calls (kids, Bonnie M). Before bed at 2300, I read for a while. It’s supposed to rain in the morning but the timing couldn’t be better - I’ve got to leave the hiking zone anyway. Perfect week in the Smokies and Blue Ridge - what a great trip! AT Today = 4.8 miles / G.T. AT = 1766.8 miles / AT Left = 418.5 miles
