Danbury, NH (USA)

It was colder (high 30s) and very foggy/misty this morning - rain was forecasted and I wasn’t exactly sure how much “dry” I’d be able to get outside... Undeterred, I decided to walk some more Northern Rail Trail with whatever time was available!  After Mass (0800), I got on I-89 and headed south.  I thought that I could delay the onset of precipitation by heading in this direction and this decision took me back towards the village of Danbury (about 30 miles from home).  I had to use my wipers all the way (I-89, NH-11, US-4) and it didn’t look like I’d made a good decision by the time I parked at the trailhead across the street from the Danbury Country Store (0945).  Despite the likelihood of getting really wet, I departed my car in the direction of Boston...  What a difference a month of changing temps made - there was still a little snow (and a few icy spots) on the trail but there was zero chance of meeting a snowmobile.  Fortunately, it wasn’t muddy enough to be tough on footing, either.  The railroad route in this area was built with a turn of almost 90 degrees (towards the south) after around 30 miles going east from WRJ - this obviously helped the trains, since they could follow smooth terrain between Danbury and Andover.  I walked for more than three miles on the old railroad bed before I found a road crossing (other than overpasses) and I didn’t see any people at all.  I could hear US-4, which paralleled the NRT, saw distant rooftops and smelled wood-stove smoke.  Along the way, I passed several boggy areas, small ponds and a long creek (Frazier Brook) that stayed close to the trail.  Being in a relatively wild environment gave me a chance for several animal encounters: a HUGE splash (otter?) in water just a few feet away; a fresh set of tracks made by a large animal (moose?) that followed the trail for a mile; a wide spread of northbound Canadian Geese overhead (following the road/railroad/creek?).  At one point, I found myself standing just feet away from two big Holstein bulls - no fence between us.  They didn’t move but stared at me as I continued past...  Didn’t need the big golf umbrella until I turned around near the South Danbury Christian Church (near Eagle Lake and the town line).  Walking back to the car was a wet slog - if I hadn’t also dressed warmly, it might have been really bad for my health.  My second pass by the bulls was also uneventful (whew). Fortunately, I got back to town before the sky really opened up with rain.  Fortunately, I was done (after walking more than six miles) by 1215 and didn't get too wet.  As it rained on my car, I followed US-4 back towards home, arriving just after 1400.  Very pleased to have gotten so much outdoor time on an otherwise “lost day”!

Hartland, VT (USA)

During my trips on I-91, I’ve often noticed a pair of covered bridges that span the Ottauqueechee River and determined (with a map) that they were very close to the junction with the Connecticut River across from Riverview Farm and Mac’s Maple Farm.  I figured that there must be a kayak launch somewhere near the bridges and set out to find it.  Left the house by 9:00 and, after some errands in West Lebanon (encountered loud package of chicks at the post office), crossed into Vermont on I-89.  Took US-5 to reach the town of Hartland.  The weather was awesome today - temps were in the 40s and the sky was almost cloudless after last night’s huge deluge.  It took a bunch of Google Maps help but I managed to locate the Willard Covered Bridges on a gravel road in the village of North Hartland.  The sight (and deafening sound) of water - LOTS of it - cascading over old mill dams there made me appreciate the power of the River systems nearby, especially as the Spring Thaw continues.  I could see calmer water and a glimpse of the farms on the New Hampshire side of the Connecticut to the south but didn’t see anywhere to safely launch a boat.  Just then, an employee of Green Mountain Power (who was checking the old mill building) came out to his truck - I ambushed and then quizzed him for about 10 minutes and he told me where I could put my kayak in the water, go fishing in “neutral” VT/NH waters and go camping (on nearby Burnap’s Island).  Like most everyone I’ve met in the Upper Valley, he was quite proud of his hometown but not afraid to tell me the local secrets.  Jazzed up from getting such good intel, I drove south on US-5 to the village of Hartland to look for a massive complex of cross country skiing and snowshoeing trails I’d heard about during the winter.  I’d never been to get down to use the (free) Hartland Winter Trails this season but I was still able to locate several trailheads and parking areas (to use next year).  I had a bit of a scare on one of the access roads west of town - the wet weather had turned it to a messy, deep sludge and I could tell that Nessie was using every bit of her AWD to keep me moving (whew).  I eventually parked in one of the public lots and got more intel about the rules from a local guy (working the town recycle lot) there - again got more friendliness and secrets. Since the signs said to “stay off the trails without skis or snowshoes”, I departed for my next stop - Windsor.  Since my dad visited last Fall, I’ve been wanting to return for the trails and Harpoon Brewery - there wasn’t time for the latter but I took a nice walk along the edge of Lake Runnemede in Paradise Park.  Met another local (guy with dog) who told me where to park for different trailheads between town and Mount Ascutney.  Like his fellow Vermonters this morning, he proudly pointed out places he liked and made suggestions on how I could enjoy my day even more.  Awesome “tour guide”!  I’d promised some folks I know from the Claremont (NH) Knights of Columbus Council that I’d attend their monthly Life Vigil at noon so I recrossed the Connecticut River (on Bridge Street) and followed NH-103 into Claremont.  I found the meeting place just before the event started.  This was a brand new experience for me but well worth the trip.  At 1300, I headed north on NH-120 until I reached the village of Meriden, where Mollie and I have hiked the French’s Ledges trails.  They were a bit too muddy for me but I walked on the Elementary School grounds for about an hour and got plenty of exercise in the warm March sun (temps in mid-50s).  Feeling pretty good about my Recce trip and outdoor adventures today, I drove home from there (arrived at 1530).  The weather, the opportunities for fun in the wild and the awesome people have made this last year a memorable, enjoyable and rewarding year.  Really looking forward to acting on all the research during the coming year(s).

Enfield, NH (USA)

[went to visit with Father John at La Salette Shrine in Enfield (0930 to 1030) - then went back home to telework]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[went to get Subaru 24K service in White River Junction (0730) - walked over to VA Hospital for COVID-19 vaccine #1 (0800) - then walked back to Subaru - teleworked while waiting for car to get done - finished at around 1030 - on the way home, took calls for work - shopping in West Lebanon - home by 1215]

Sunapee, NH (USA)

Last night, I spent a lot of time researching maple syrup places that might be open, since we'd struck out during our tour of the White Mountains.  When I told Mollie about my plan, she replied that she was excited to explore some more "essentially NH" places.  Despite this sentiment, I had to wake her up at 0845 this morning so we could depart for our day at the place I'd found near Lake Sunapee.  After getting on the road, we followed I-89, NH-11, NH-103 and NH-103A and arrived at Harding Hill Farm just after 1000.  I was glad to find that we were some of the first people who'd actually visited the new Sugar House for a tour.  We got the royal treatment and were shown each of the stations along the way from tree sap to different shades of finished syrup.  Family members (young people, third generation) took us to huge vats that had been filled with tree sap collected (with 2500 taps, 15 miles of connected tubing and trucks) from 30 acres of maple trees.  It takes over 40 gallons of tree sap to make one gallon of maple syrup and we learned about the reverse osmosis machine that removes about 50% of the water from the raw syrup.  The family then heats the syrup over a wood fire to evaporate more of the water, fine tuning the sugar/liquid content until it reaches a certain temperature and density.  It then goes through a series of filters and is cooled.  By the time our tour guide poured the finished product from the spigot, the maple syrup was so pure and delicious (free samples).  Before we left the sugar house, we were shown small vials that represented each day's color/sugar-content/quality.  As the temperature in the area increases, the trees react by producing different levels of sugar - we were apparently right in the "sweet spot" (pun intended) of where the balance was really good and our taste test proved that.  The crowds started growing immediately after we finished the tour but we were the only ones in the little store - we met some more family members who told us more about the business and proud tradition of creating yummy syrup at the farm.  We bought some syrup (1030) made during the 2021 season, some syrup aged for six months in Bourbon barrels and a small vial of maple sugar.  Just like she does when I really get into the engineering of how grist mills work, Mollie kept pointing out that maple sugaring was right up my alley.  She's probably not wrong - I love learning the "how it's made" of things like this.  Mollie wanted to check out the "oreo cows” that were up the hill from the sugar house so we walked there under a warm Spring sun.  We also walked for a little while on a nearby snowmobile trail before returning to our car.  Overall, we were quite impressed with the operations at the Farm - it was even nicer to meet the friendly/energetic family who runs it (one was a Virginia Tech alum who enjoyed talking to Mollie).  We then drove south to see nearby Mount Sunapee Resort and Mount Sunapee State Park - both were packed with people.  Following the recommendation of the Harding Hill owners, we continued a little further until we reached the little village of Newbury.  We took NH-103A and soon located “The Fells” (1115), the historic home of the historic home of John Milton Hay (private secretary of President Lincoln, Secretary of State under Presidents McKinley and Roosevelt).  Even though al the buildings were closed, we were able to take a walk on the grounds for a while.  The weather was very nice and Mollie enjoyed taking pictures.  The home, located on the property of the John Hay Natural Wildlife Refuge, has been preserved to keep the land around the lake from being developed. We were two of only a handful of visitors enjoying the quiet estate, and wandered around on the various trails that we could find. Mollie wrote later that she "spent a minute sitting on the back patio of the home soaking up the sun before catching up with dad to explore the 'Fairy Village' trail that we kept seeing signs for. The weather this weekend has been spectacular, and allowed us our first special animal sighting of the season - chipmunks! They're not a rare sighting, but after seeing virtually no animals all winter, I was excited."  Both of us talked about ideas for activities nearby after Spring weather truly arrives.  I told Mollie we should try to get lunch at a restaurant I’d seen by the lake during a previous visit and she agreed.  I drove us (via NH-103B) to Sunapee Harbor and we ended up having a delicious meal at The Anchorage (sat down at 1230).  Our table was located on the deck and we had a nice view of the melting ice on the lake.  After finishing lunch (1315) we walked around near the harbor and Mollie found another Little Library (we both got books from there).  Reluctantly, we departed the Sunapee area in search of gas for my Subaru.  This led to a funny exchange with Mollie about how I was always trying to get the best deal "when a good deal should be enough."  When I found the cheapest price and a bonus discount in Grantham (at Irving), she had to “eat her words" (1330).  Before returning home, we stopped to visit the nearby Eastman Golf and saw how the cross country skiing trails had turned into a melted mess.  I was sad but Mollie said she was glad that snow was going away for good.  We then drove home (via I-89), arriving at about 1500.  Mollie added a blog entry about our day (it was really good).  Meanwhile, I got our new outdoor furniture assembled - Mollie then spent several hours studying on the deck in the warm sun.  Another great "family day" in the Granite State!

Gorham, NH (USA)

Mollie got herself up at around 0730 and we got packed up for our day trip in the White Mountains.  Surprisingly, we were able to leave my condo about 30 minutes later.  We used I-89, US-4, NH-118 and NH-25 to reach I-93.  All the curvy and hilly roads (lots of frost heaves) caused Mollie to get car sick a lot but she told me she didn’t want to turn around.  By the time we reached the Interstate, Mollie felt better and pointed out a Forest Service property (Hubbard Brook Experimental Forest) she’d learned about in school (she said she planned to email her professor about it).  Our first stop was to get information at the WMNF Visitor Center in Lincoln.  We spent a lot of time looking at the relief map of the White Mountains there and got a lot of brochures.  We then continued north to Franconia Notch and I stopped several times so Mollie could take photos.  Mollie told me she thought the area (especially near Mount Lafayette) looked like Kings Canyon in California (I agreed).  We backtracked south on I-93 and then took the Kancamagus Highway to the east.  Unfortunately, Mollie got carsick again and asked me not to take any more roads like that.  There were lots of people parked at trailheads along the way and we didn’t stop.  After we reached NH-16, Mollie perked up, especially as we drove through North Conway (Mollie liked the many stores, restaurants and hotels).  I pulled off the road at a viewpoint where we could see Mount Washington - it was completely covered in snow and this impressed Mollie (she said it reminded her of Colorado).  We looked at some covered bridges in Jackson and then stopped at the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.  There was an event (Inferno Pentathlon) going on there and we had to walk a long distance from where we parked to reach the main building.  I got Mollie some postcards with my AMC discount (1215) and we walked around nearby (including some of the AT!) so Mollie could get more photos.  The day warmed up tremendously and we both enjoyed being outside.  Mollie really wanted to see a moose but we heard from several people during the day that they weren’t likely to be visible again until May.  Undeterred, Mollie kept scanning the woods to find animals.  At one point, we ventured off onto the quiet Lost Pond trail (per Mollie: "it's a snow shoe trail, but we are going to get our socks wet for some pictures of Mount Washington!"). Before long, the path grew too steep for our shoes and we headed back to the car.  Feeling good, we drove north to Gorham and I showed Mollie some places where I usually stayed and hiked.  We ate our lunch while we looked out across Reflection Pond (part of the Androscoggin River) east of town on US-2.  We then backtracked to the west and kept going on US-2 all the way to the Connecticut River (and Vermont Border).  The views of the Presidential Range were tremendous!  I kept hoping we’d pass some kind of farm or maple sugar place but we never did - most of the dairies, creameries and other interesting places were closed for the season). We continued west until we reached St. Johnsbury, where we discovered (after getting help from local kids) that the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail began on the outskirts of town.  After reviewing the map, we decided to follow it and get some exercise.  It was a muddy and icy walk but we had a nice time in the warm Spring sun.  If we decided to keep following this pretty trail, we'd only have had to walk about 95 miles until we reached Lake Champlain...  We spent about 30 minutes walking and having a nice talk before we left "St. J" on I-91.  After stopping for gas in Bradford (1530), we used US-5 to drive all the way to Norwich.  We eventually crossed the Connecticut River back into New Hampshire again.  We arrived home by 1630, unpacked the car and relaxed for a bit.  I helped Mollie get the photos off of her SD Card so she would share photos of our fun-filled day with her friends.  Mollie told me she really enjoyed seeing all the cows and horses and pretty farms - she added that she'd really enjoyed our "Tour of New Hampshire." Music to a dad's ears!

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 10

I got up at 0530 and started teleworking.  At 0730, I woke Mollie so we could go to have breakfast.  We got done with the checkout and eating by 0815 and then went to the drive-through hospital pharmacy, arriving just in time for them to open (0830).  We got my prescriptions and then made our way to I-95 (via Fairfax County parkway).  We were in a traffic jam for a little while but got going without delay by about 0930.  Took I-495, I-270 and US-15 to Harrisburg.  The weather was great, traffic was light and Mollie and I talked a lot.  Somehow, I messed up the route when we reached PA-581 so we ended up following US-15 (west side of the Susquehanna River) until we reached I-81.  We then drove north until we stopped for gas at Shell in Kingsley, PA (1320).  It had gotten much colder by then but the weather was very nice.  We'd been having so much fun talking and the driving was going so well that I forgot to call into a meeting I had (oh well) - clearly, all the fun I've had on the trip has made me forgetful!  I'd promised Mollie that I'd stop at a Tim Hortons on the way and she found one near Hallstead, PA.  We stopped there for lunch (Mollie's treat) at about 1330 and then I got us some donuts to go (1400).  We then got back on I-81, entered New York and then used the shortcut route (via I-86 and back roads through Broome County) to I-88.  We made great time across the state of New York and got off the Interstate near Albany (where it crossed US-20).  We then continued east until we reached I-90, followed it to I-87 and then got off on NY-7.  We took that road to VT-7 and stopped for a break at the Vermont Welcome Center in Bennington at around 1730.  We talked for a while with the friendly volunteers there and then got on the road again.  We used US-7, VT-30 and VT-11 to reach I-91.  Mollie really enjoyed the scenery (including snow and ice) as we drove through the Vermont mountains.  She also nicknamed my Jeep Compass (rental) "Maggie" (for magnetic north).  We made great time to I-91 and used I-89 to reach home (arrived at 1930).  Mollie helped me unload the car and clean up the kitchen.  We talked some more about our day and took funny pictures of Smurfey with all of the new stuffed animals that Mollie had brought with her from Virginia.  Whew - what a great trip!

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 9

I didn't get very much sleep last night and the time change ("Spring Forward") didn't help...  Somehow, I was still packed and ready to leave Marion by 0800.  I used I-81, I-77 and US-58 to make my way over towards Fairy Stone State Park.  After getting disoriented (no cell signal), I ended up on VA-57 and found the Visitor Center (0930).  While there, I got directions to the "Hunt Site" and drove a short distance to it.  Between 1000 and 1100, I looked for a while but couldn’t find any of the famous stones. There were a lot of people with kids searching too (“Is this a fairy stone, Dad? Is THIS one?”).  I’ll admit, it occurred to me that this might be a cruel joke (e.g., “snipe”), perpetuated by the locals...  However, there were gift shops nearby that sold some (although they didn’t look like the pictures).  Reminded me of parks I’ve visited near fossil beds, gold fields, petrified wood - the best stuff is always long gone.  Another pretty day, though! Got back in the car, following Google Maps, and used lots of back roads to US-29 (found it just south of Lynchburg).  Despite unreliable cell signal, I managed to make calls to Tyler (catch up), Mollie (arrange pick-up) and Kelly (arrange meet up).  The traffic was OK for most of the drive but it was horrible (as usual) near Charlottesville.  I also had a big slow down after I made it to I-66.  I arrived at Kelly and John's house in Vienna just before 1600.  We had fun chatting, reminiscing, drinking beer and then walking over to the Open Road Grill & Icehouse for dinner (done at 1900).  I finished the visit with my friends (back at their house) at around 2030 and then continued my trip - took back roads to reach I-495 and drove over to Telegraph Road.  Got gas at Speedway in Alexandria (2045) and then picked up Mollie.  We drove to Fort Belvoir and got our room - despite the fact they only had rooms with one bed, I managed to find a place for Mollie to sleep (arm chair and Ottoman).  We both read books until going to bed at 2300 - lots more driving tomorrow!

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 8

Best night of sleep on the trip!  I was up by 0600, cleaned up, got breakfast in the hotel (0700) and got on the road.  As I departed from Maggie Valley, I noticed that all of the hotels had no vacancy signs (I guess I was lucky to find a place).  There were many clues (foggy, damp, puddles) that the forecasted rain had come through overnight - from the news this morning, it looked like I had several hours of dry before another storm was expected (gambling paid off).  It took me about an hour (mostly on US-19) to reach the AT Trailhead at Newfound Gap (on US-441 in GSMNP) because of distance, fog and elk on the road (!) but I was all geared up and ready for my last hike of the trip by 0815.  Temps were in the low 50s but the dew point was very close - two layers (light jacket) was comfortable.  Sadly, this short section wasn’t too exciting (and didn’t have any views, due to the fog) but it was one more link in the long AT section chain I’m building.  As it has all week, the trail meandered on both sides of the NC/TN border.  During 1.7 miles of climbing today, I passed eight Thru hikers (all 2021) and two LASHers (Smokies only).  Talked to most of them and took away lots of good stories of perseverance and determination. One couple (“Rocky” and “Nemesis”) had started hiking in Key West back in October 2020; one solo lady was trying a Thru again after breaking her leg in PA in 2018; a trio of young guys were all charged up after crossing Clingman’s Dome; an older Thru guy joked that it was so hard to see anything near 6K’ that “they might have moved the tower”.  Overall, I enjoyed the camaraderie - everyone seems to love sharing their adherence of the Hiker Mantra (“Hike Your Own Hike”)...  When I reached the parking area for the Road Prong Trail, I decided to backtrack via the paved road (access to Clingman’s Dome) - the distance was almost the same but it was better for my knees, ankles and feet (including the annoying blister).  When I reached US-441 again, I realized why I hadn’t seen any cars for the previous mile - the road was closed (will have you remember to check that next time).  Reached my car at around 1000 after around 3.5 miles.  Almost all the hikers I’d passed were enjoying some Trail Magic out of that back of a Trail Angel’s truck that was parked right near my car.  Seems like that would be a good life - cooking and dispensing joy to hikers...  The Park was rapidly filling up with visitors and I gladly vacated the area as fast as I could.  On the way, I ate lunch in the car.  As I left Great Smoky Mountains National Park (fog on the way, no cell signal until Gatlinburg), there was LOTS of traffic.  I had trouble getting through Pigeon Forge, possibly because I followed Google Maps to the northeast - the routing took me past Dollywood and several busy parkways before I got on I-40.  I called Brenna and we had a nice chat.  The weather kept improving all the way and I decided I'd like to see some more scenery before the end of my day.  I had a rough plan in mind but, when I encountered a big traffic jam near Johnson City (TN), it convinced me to leave the Interstate.  I managed to get off I-40 at I-26 (squeezed by cars on the shoulder) and drive north.  I stopped at a rest area to take care of some emails and calls.  Armed with some additional ideas, I decided to visit Natural Tunnel State Park (north of my location).  I then took US-23 to US-58 (into Virginia) and headed west.  When I reached the park (1330), I was pleasantly surprised to learn that I'd found a really interesting place!  From an overlook near the main Visitor Center, it was clear that the Tunnel was a geological marvel.  A bunch of walking was required (chairlift closed) but getting a chance to look into the deep tunnel - still used by freight trains - was well worth the effort.  And, while it wasn’t directly connected to THE Carter Family of Nashville fame (who originated nearby), a walk through an old cabin of Moseby Carter reminded me how much work it was to tame the land when settlers first traveled the Wilderness Road.  Highly recommend this State Park!  I departed at 1430 and backtracked to the intersection of US-58 and US-23.  From there, I used US-58 and several backroads back into TN and then paralleled TN/VA border until I reached US-11W.  Took that road to I-81 and crossed the border into VA immediately afterwards.  Made good time to Marion and stopped at the Travel Inn for the night again (1615). Took a nice bath and sorted laundry, repacked bags, cleaned dust off of car.  Went to get dinner at Arby's (1750) and got gas at Food City GasNGo (1755).  Back in the room, I ate dinner, read, worked on my computer and finalized packing for the next day.  Finally went to bed at 2300.  It’s been a great week - weather was awesome, hikes were challenging but rewarding, hiker stories were inspiring.  I'm already looking forward to my next visit!  AT Today = 1.5 miles / G.T. AT = 1797.5 miles / AT Left = 387.8 miles

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 7

I was awake very early again (dozed until 0530).  When I got outside, I was glad to see that the rain held off.  I left Newport quite early - it was dark and only Hardees was open (got breakfast to go at 0615).  To reach the AT Trailhead, I followed the same route I used yesterday afternoon - I was hiking (SOBO) from Lemon Gap (TN/NC border) by 0730.  The temps were already in the 50s (!!) and the sun was coming up over the hills so I was very happy to have a chance to get going early.  Started passing NOBO Thrus right away - I ultimately counted 11 by the end of the section.  Talked to three of them (to get a flavor of the “Bubble”.  “Link”, “Smile” and “Doogie” were all in the Hiker Class of ‘21 and had just finished the Smokies in the best possible weather (this probably explained why they were all so smiley).  They’d begun from Springer on February 25 and had met the same kinds of people I have been during the last week: a combination of 2020 “Do Overs”, 2021s and LASHers.  Since no one apparently will get credit for their hike from the ATC this or last year, the trail was maintaining a “Rebel” type feel - since I hike all year, I definitely support the use of the AT for exercise, mental well-being and outdoor solitude (“closed” or not).  I caught up to the young backpacking couple I’d seen the day before - they didn’t seem to be in any hurry at all (wink wink)...  After about four miles of pretty lazy climbing, with many creek crossings, I arrived at the start of a rather steep ascent to the main event: Max Patch!  After I got to the huge, open, grassy bald, I was treated to awesome views of mountains in all directions.  I could also see the incoming rain (it was falling on the Smokies).  The wind was pretty strong (had to hold onto my hat) but that didn’t deter a young couple (apparently recently engaged) from trying to get some portraits made.  I saw a few people near tents but I’m glad I didn’t camp on the exposed hill...  As usual, the AT almost immediately began a descent from the Max Patch summit.  At least the wind died down.  I arrived at NC-1182 (my turnaround point) much earlier than I expected (pedometer screwed up again).  Was going to hike back the way I’d come but my Google Maps told me it was less than four miles on the gravel road to my car.  So, of course, I went that way.  The road grade was almost completely downhill and meandered through areas where there were seasonal cabins - they looked like nice places to escape the hot summer sun.  A car stopped to ask if I needed help and the two guys inside told me they were doing a two car shuttle for the same route (I was a bit envious).  Made it to my car again (after almost 10 miles) by 1130 - not a bad hike!  I decided to drive back to the parking area for Max Patch - encountered lots of cars on the way and the lot was packed.  Very glad to have gotten several days in the woods without crowds and even happier that I didn’t get drenched with rain on any of them.  From the top of the mountains, I made several calls (Mollie had a lot of news about her visit) and a hotel reservation in Maggie Valley.  I then used NC-1182 and Harmon Den Road to get to I-40 - on the way, I found potential dirt roads where I might be able to access the AT.  I drove south/east and got off the Interstate at US-276.  From there, I continued  towards Maggie Valley - I had to get on US-19 to reach my hotel (Quality Inn) and checked in by 1330.  I ate dinner and then relaxed/rested in my room.  Also took care of some work on my computer, texted with my dad, read books, watched some TV and then some movies on my phone.  I went to sleep by 2145.  Very relaxing afternoon/evening - unfortunately, I have to head back north tomorrow...  AT Today = 6.0 miles / G.T. AT = 1796.0 miles / AT Left = 389.3 miles

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 6

Woke up by 0500 but took my time getting ready.  I was on the road by 0645 and got McDonalds in Greeneville (0655) - I met a nice lady who "really" knew the menu. :-) Since the weather in the area was still nice, I decided to finish the rest of the AT section in Shelton Laurel Wilderness.  From previous research, this meant that I had to make sure I got one of only two parking spots at the AT Trailhead at Allen Gap (near TN/NC border on TN-70).  I was successful in this task - barely (second car arrived just after I had started into the woods) - and was hiking NOBO by 0730.  It was a little cool in areas where the morning sun hadn’t yet reached so I brought my light jacket again - within 15 minutes I’d shed down to my short sleeves.  Near the busy road and several farms, I heard the sounds of big trucks reaching the top of the steep grade, baying dogs and proud roosters.  Later, it got quiet again and I only heard a few woodpeckers and thumping jackrabbits.  After a few days of seeing them, I figured out what was going on with the crosses on the white blazes: an energetic group called “Team Christ” had gone overboard with Sharpies.  It was interesting to see the reaction of other hikers with Sharpies - most of the crosses were converted into the “AT” symbol.  Anyway, watching this counter-graffiti battle helped pass the time...  The early part of the section was a mini-roller coaster of sorts and I guess I used up a lot of my energy - by the time the hour ended, I was already very tired.  And that’s when the AT changed to a pretty dramatic incline.  The hill (base of Viking Mountain) just seemed to go higher and higher, with no let up, and I thanked my lucky stars it was early and only 50 degrees...  Passed two campers about halfway up the hill and, just before I reached the turnaround point (Little Laurel Shelter), a fast (local) climber (and his puppy) passed me.  My pedometer had gotten REALLY messed up on the way so I was shocked to reached the Shelter “early”.  Of course, I didn’t stop to figure out why I was done so quickly with the outbound leg of the section, I just headed back towards my car.  The sun, which had taken temps into the mid 60s, mercifully went behind a cloud and the trail cooled down nicely.  Over the first few miles of my backtrack, I passed 14 hikers of various stripes: four 2021 Thrus, seven 2020 “Do-Over” Thrus and three Sectioners.  The trail was downright busy after several days alone!  I only talked with a couple of them because everyone was concentrating on the hellish climb.  The young people all looked cheery and the old people looked determined - but my chat with a mid-20s young lady from Louisiana revealed that looks were deceiving.  She’d fallen back (on purpose) from her larger group of Thrus for some “alone time” and said that she really needed it.  I gathered that some of the youngest people in her group (teens) were wearing her out and sons of the oldest (40s) were annoying her.  But she wasn’t too tired of people to talk to me and I appreciated her perspective on the last two years of AT hiking she’d done.  Resumed my descent and then powered through the little coaster, arriving at my car at 1145 after almost 10 miles.  Tired and worn out but felt good about breaking through the “400 miles left” barrier!  Since I was done with all the hiking I could do nearby, I decided to check out the road conditions for the drive up to Max Patch.  From the trailhead on TN-70, I backtracked towards Greeneville and then used TN-107, US-25/70 and TN-107 until it terminated in the little town of Del Rio.  There, the pavement ended but I was able to use Round Mountain Road (gravel) to get to Lemon Gap - it took more than 30 minutes on the long, winding road.  But my efforts paid off - there was an AT Trailhead (very prominent) at the Gap, just like advertised.  Even though I was already tired and the temps had reached the low 70s, I decided to do a short hike up to the Walnut Mountain Shelter from there.  The section was one of the biggest climbs of the AT in the area but it was also just under 1.5 miles - mostly, it was a mind (Brain: I want to do this) over matter (Muscles/Feet: No, you don’t) exercise.  Starting at 1335, I climbed the hill (NOBO, ~1000 foot elevation increase) in bright, sunny conditions.  There was a field at the top, just before the Shelter, and I was able to see all the prominent peaks to the south and west (including Clingman’s Dome).  Turned around immediately and made better time in the descent.  I passed two solo NOBO Thru hikers - they both commented on the heat - and caught up to a young couple who were backpacking SOBO.  After getting done (1445, after just over 2.6 miles), I looked at the weather forecast again.  If I was sure the rain wouldn’t hit the area in the next 18 hours, I would have preferred to camp nearby.  However, I reasoned that I could get into Newport for the night and, depending on the actual conditions, decide whether to drive back up to Lemon Gap in the morning.  So I took US-25/70 into town and arrived at Quality Inn (near I-40) in Newport by 1600.  I got gas at (Exxon ?) next door at 1615 and then spent the evening resting, cleaning up, reading and organizing in my room all evening.  My neighbors were noisy, annoying and smoking - I wasn't sure if I'd get any sleep when I went to bed at 2145...  Crossing fingers for dry day tomorrow! AT Today = 6.2 miles / G.T. AT = 1790.0 miles / AT Left = 395.3 miles

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 5

Awake by 0500 and took care of work items in the early AM.  Left hotel by 0705 and stopped for breakfast (ordered inside) at McDonalds in Greeneville (0720).  After checking the weather forecast again, it seemed clear that I should postpone the drive up to Max Patch for another few days - the weather where I was seemed too good to abandon!  The next best option was a section on the southern end of the Shelton Laurel Wilderness - it required an hour (plus) long drive on winding mountain roads (TN-70, NC-208 and NC-212).  I got another early start from Greeneville and made it safely to the AT Trailhead at Devil Fork Gap (NC/TN border) by 0815.  I quickly got on the trail, headed north (AT SOBO).  The temps were in the mid 30s when I started but it was supposed to get much warmer (70) before I was done so I dressed accordingly (light jacket, ready to shed to short sleeves).  New signs, posted by the Carolina Mountain Club, indicated much longer distances for this section than my old (2014) “AWOL” AT Guide - the day was so nice, however, that I decided to ignore them.  The grade was generally uphill, with some “dips” (into ravines) now and then.  My pedometer didn’t keep up with my steps very closely so I was pretty surprised to reach the Flint Mountain Shelter about a half mile before I expected.  No people were there but I startled a small herd of white-tailed deer (nice to see some wildlife).  A bit later, the trail started a dramatic climb up the southern side of Big Butt Mountain (queue Sir Mix-A-Lot) - the AT went from about 3K feet to almost 4.5K feet within just over a mile.  It wasn’t too warm yet and I felt fresh, making the climb only a minor annoyance to my great hike.  About 3/4 of the way to the top, I encountered the older backpacker I’d seen on Viking Mountain the previous afternoon.  This time, we talked a bit more and I learned that “Wingnut” was a 2020 Thru hiker who’d left the trail (due to COVID-19) at Fontana.  He was making a second attempt, supported by his wife as pit-crew, and was very happy to encounter another hiker (he said he hadn’t seen anyone but me in days).  He told me about his military career (Army 30 year man, 82nd, Ranger, exec for PACFLT) - I was surprised and pleased that he recognized the Navy aircraft I’d flown.  He had a meet-up planned with his wife so we said goodbye (I gave him my card, in case he needed help when he came through NH).  Resuming my climb, the warming temperatures made for some “too hot” (physiological) warnings - fortunately, I had plenty of water.  Made it to the Shelton Graves and immediately started my backtrack - the descent (as always) made things better.  I noticed that a blister was developing on my foot (a hole in a sock has burned me before...) so I tried to take it easy on the way back towards the car.  Skipped a break at the shelter I’d initially planned (there was a hiker there but I just shouted “happy trails” as I passed) and soon found myself looking down at NC-212 from the ridge.  “Wingnut” was just making his rendezvous (1300) and was gone when I got to the road.  Planned to walk a bit farther south (AT NOBO), to close out the area, but an older guy in a van with Casper on the side asked if I wanted Trail Magic.  As I usually do, I told him I was a day hiker - but he insisted I get a can of soda and a couple of candy bars.  While talking to him (Rob), I learned he’d previously owned a hiker hostel in Dalton, MA.  After he told me how much he missed the Thru hikers who’d stayed overnight with him there, it was clear that he used the van to get back some of the vibe (trail stories and friendship).  Unfortunately, he’d seen VERY few hikers during the previous year.  I chatted with him for a bit (and thanked him for supporting folks on the AT) before resuming the last mile (half mile in each direction) of my hike.  It didn’t take long to climb a green hill (views of Viking Mountain to the north) and descend to Rector Laurel Road.  I was ready to be done but then I had to backtrack - the climb was harder but I made it.  Back at my car, after about 11.5 miles, by 1345.  The car thermometer said it was 71 degrees and I needed air conditioning to cool down.  Decided to go back to Greeneville for another night - followed TN-352 down to US-19W and I-26, then took TN-81 and TN-107 to reach US-11E (very pretty drive).  I checked into the Econolodge again at 1505.  After eating dinner in my room again, I spent time talking on the phone with Mollie, texted with friends, rested and read - I even watched a little TV.   Feeling a bit sore but also jazzed about the good exercise, fresh (warm) mountain air and the people I’d met - gonna try to get some more of each tomorrow!  Bed at 2100 (!).  AT Today = 5.6 miles / G.T. AT = 1783.9 miles / AT Left = 401.4 miles

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 4

I was up by 0530 and got ready - it was another beautiful day!  Left the hotel (0645) and used US-11E and TN-70 to get to the trailhead.  Picked up breakfast (ordered inside) at McDonalds in Greeneville (0700) and then retraced my route from yesterday to get to the top of Viking Mountain.  I was parked in Jones Meadow by 0800.  Started on the blue-blazed trail that took me to the AT - I turned left at the first sign of white blazes and headed east (AT NOBO).  Temps were initially near 40 degrees but there was also a cool breeze on the ridge - so I stayed layered (2, light jacket) all day.  I made a quick visit to the Blackstack Cliffs within the first mile.  The visibility was tremendous and I could see the high ridges in GSMNP, as well as Greeneville, to the north (TN) and the entire Shelton Laurel Wilderness to the south (NC).  The section was “J” shaped, with the curve on the east side, so I was able to see where I was going almost all day.  Like yesterday, some of the trail stayed below the high ridgeline (at ~4.5K feet all day) and I enjoyed some flat hiking.  After reaching Bearwallow Gap, however, the AT started following the highest terrain.  It was rocky and, at times, a bit scary (due to uncertain footing and big drops below).  The view made the effort worthwhile, though, and I marveled at the Smokies from a “King of the World” position.  After the rock scramble, the trail settled down again - there was an old fire road near the trail and the AT kept crossing it.  The trail also crossed some pretty balds, with few trees and lots of grasses.  This was nice because I felt pretty warm - would have layered down a few times but the cool breeze (and patches of snow) made me reconsider.  As I cris-crossed the NC/TN border repeatedly, the utter silence around me gave me the sensation that I was completely alone in the Universe.  The occasional woodpecker, hammering away on an old tree, would remind me that it wasn’t so...  Passed the Jerry Cabin Shelter - there was no one there.  On the outbound leg, I had one more rock scramble at Big Butt Mountain.  Since there wasn’t a view, the climb seemed pointless.  About 100 yards after I was back on the “flat”, though, I found a memorial stone to a 1968 Thru Hiker who’d later requested that his ashes be spread on the AT - made me think...  A bit later, I caught up with the Air Force Vet Thru hiker I’d seen the previous day - he was employing the “slow and steady” approach so I passed him and followed a long, gradual downhill grade to my turnaround spot: the Shelton Graves.  There were a few stones in a small clearing - it looked like most of them were placed during or soon after the Civil War (I later found a link that explained why they were there).  The AF dude caught up to me while I was taking a break (almost 7.5 miles from my car) and we talked for a bit about his night in the Shelter (cold).  Began my backtrack soon afterwards - despite not hiking anywhere near the distance since November, I felt surprisingly fresh.  Since I’d seen several alternatives to the AT (dirt road, bypass trails), I skipped almost all the big climbs and rock scrambles in an effort to avoid wearing out my legs.  This worked well and I shaved off some distance and, subsequently, lots of time during the return leg.  It may be because I wasn’t on the AT for the whole day but, regardless, I only saw one other person  before I was done.  The backpacker (older guy, section hiker?) appeared to be considering taking one of the bypass trails as I approached Blackstack Cliffs again - my report of easier going while following the blue-blazes helped him decide... Finished up with the access trail I’d used in the early AM and made it to my car by 1430 (completed close to 15 miles).  The temps had settled in the mid 50s by then.  Felt sore but was also elated to have made such a big dent in the 20 mile section in the Shelton area.  Decided to go back to Greeneville (used TN-70 and US-11E) and checked into the Econolodge at 1600.  Had trouble with the hot water but the receptionist helped me resolve the issue.  I ate dinner in my room again and spent the whole evening reading and deciding where to hike in the morning (Max Patch area looks like the leading candidate).  Went to bed at 2130, exhausted from my hike.  AT Today = 7.1 miles / G.T. AT = 1778.3 miles / AT Left = 407.0 miles

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 3

AT Hiking Trip!  After waking up at 0530 and finishing my packing, I left my hotel (0645) and got to the Walmart in Marion just when they opened (0700).  Lucky for me: they had some trekking poles (even better than my old ones).  I was quickly on my way again - like the previous day, the traffic was light and I made good time on I-81 as I drove into Tennessee.  Got off (following Google Maps) the Interstate at TN-93 and followed it all the way to US-11E.  Tried to get gas soon afterwards but there were "good-old-boys" parked at the pumps but sitting inside the diner.  Continued to the southwest, watching my gas gauge and worrying about running out of fuel...  I made it to the outskirts of Greenville (barely) and got gas at the BP (0845).  Later determined that I paid at least $0.20 more there than I would have anywhere else nearby (beats running out of gas, though).  All the driving to get near the trail this morning gave the temps time to rise into the high 30s.  Continued west on US-321 until I reached TN-70 and then drove south towards Asheville.  My target zone was located in the middle of the Shelton Laurel Backcountry, south of Greeneville, TN.  I’d driven on the south side of this ridge (close to Hot Springs, NC), which defines the NC/TN border, many times but had never seen the stark terrain rise from the valley on the north side - what a view during the drive!  I’d researched road access before the trip and was very pleased to find that the gravel route (Viking Mountain Road) was very passable.  I arrived at the parking area in Jones Meadow at 1000 without seeing any other cars.  The view into the valley below was tremendous!  Armed with new trekking poles, I walked east along a blue-blazed road until I was able to get on the AT.  From there, I turned right (west, AT SOBO) and started my hike (1015).  Somewhere along the way, I crossed the border into North Carolina - I saw boundary markers throughout the day as the trail crossed back and forth.  It was a little chilly (lower temps and some wind), so I stayed layered up most of the morning.  The sun was shining and the visibility was really great - within the first mile, I was able to enjoy an amazing overlook at Whiterock Cliff (wow!).  I continued over the rocky and muddy section for another mile or so, enjoying the great day.  The trail was pretty smooth and actually skirted the ridge on the south side - on the higher terrain above me, I saw a series of fire towers, antennae and a huge observation tower.  However, the AT never took me near them.  There was some snow and ice in places but it was clear that Spring had arrived in the Smokies...  Along the way, I encountered my first Thru hiker of 2021.  He was retired Air Force with two rebuilt knees who had been forced off the trail almost exactly one year earlier.  With his wife as pit crew support, he’d recently started hiking again (from Standing Bear Hostel at I-40) and hoped to get to Katahdin by the end of the year.  Interesting guy!  After talking to him for a while, I continued hiking.  Soon, the trail started an extreme descent from the highest point of the day (4.7K feet).  Despite this, I decided that it would be a good idea to make my turnaround at the Little Laurel Shelter since it would shorten the hike from Allen Gap (NC-208/TN-70).  I didn’t take lightly the psychological impact (usually negative) of voluntarily choosing a huge descent (with tough climb on the backtrack) - this early in the season, something like that could kick my @$$...  When I reached the shelter, though, I decided to take a break because there were two LASHers already there.  We had a great chat while eating and recharging.  One of the guys, Oliver, was a NYC Director who’d just gotten one of his plays on Broadway when COVID-19 hit - he told me this helped him survive because of the up-front payoff before all shows were canceled.  Oliver was a true NYC ambassador, telling me how much he and his family loved the Big Apple.  I spent a loooong time at the turnaround point, I was enjoying the conversation so much...  Would have liked to hike with them on the way back but we all have our own paces - soon, I was alone again.  The temps had risen into the low 50s by the time I was in the middle of the climb but I didn’t let that distract me - I quickly got to the top and was able to walk the rest of the way at a leisurely pace.  Thought about climbing up to the observation tower but started thinking about checking out some other trailheads instead.  Along the way, I noticed that someone who appeared to be memorializing a loved one or trying to bring people to Jesus had added crosses of various design to nearly every white blaze in the NOBO direction.  When I reached the western access trail to Jones Meadow again, I got off the AT - made it to my car by 1345 after almost 7 miles.  Felt good - the section wasn’t too long and I’d gotten some of the cobwebs out of my system after almost four months away from the AT.  There was a Mennonite family enjoying a picnic nearby - they made a good choice on location, I think.  It was early, so I explored a few potential access points for the future - unfortunately, there was no parking at those locations (there were, however, signs that said “Trespassers will be shot and Survivors will be shot again”)...  Headed back to Greeneville on TN-70 (Google Maps took me through lots of school zones) and checked into the Days Inn on US-11E at 1515 (hoping the forecasted temperature increases will make camping more palatable during the coming days).  Ate dinner in my room and spent the rest of the evening planning for the next day and reading.  Went to sleep at around 2200.  Glad to be down here for such nice weather - looking forward to a great week!  AT Today = 3.0 miles / Grand Total AT = 1771.2 miles / AT Left = 414.1 miles

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 2

I got up early and re-organized my stuff in bags and in the car.  I checked out of the BOQ at around 0730 and drove over to La Madeleine in Kingstowne.  I checked out my old neighborhood on the way but still arrived at the restaurant early (and even took a walk near Giant to kill time).  I met up with Erin and Austin at 0800 and we ate a nice breakfast together and had a good talk.  We were finished by 0930 and I then left for Harrisonburg.  Brenna texted and later called to coordinate our meet-up after she was done with church.  I used I-66 (very busy and lots of construction) and I-81.  Stopped for gas at Loves in Toms Brook (1050).  Arrived at Brenna's house by 1130 and we talked for a little while.  We then departed for the Valley Pike Farm in Weyers Cave (Brenna knew some people who worked there).  We ordered some food (sandwiches) and got a flight of local beer and local wine.  We stayed from about 1215 to 1400 and had good food and a nice talk.  We also took a walk around near the Farm and then drove (lots of back roads) to see the grave of my friend, Sean, at the cemetery in Penn Laird.  Brenna told me she wasn't feeling well so I took her home at about 1530.  I departed after that and drove through Harrisonburg on the way to I-81.  I ended up seeing little robot cars on the sidewalk and called Brenna to find out what they were (they were called Starships and were delivering food to students).  As I passed through Roanoke, Bonnie M called me back (I'd tried to reach her earlier) and we had a nice talk.  Traffic on I-81 wasn't bad at all and I made really good time all the way down to Marion, where I stopped for the night.  I stayed in the Travel Inn again (1900) and the family that owned it was happy to see me.  I spent some of the evening in the room (re)packing again so I would be ready for my hiking day (it was during this time that I discovered I'd forgotten my trekking poles).  Went walking near the hotel (much warmer than it was at home!) and also read and checked over some emails.  Went to bed by 2300.

Smoky Mountain Hiking Trip - Day 1

I got up early (0530) and Mollie woke herself up while I was getting bags ready.  We finished packing the car and then got on the road, bound for Virginia (0630).  We used I-89 and I-91 to get to South Deerfield, MA and met Johnny for breakfast at the Whatley Diner (0800).  We spent about an hour there, mostly talking about his UMass semester, and gave him a birthday gift.  We got back on the Interstate by 0900 and continued south.  Mollie and I had lots of good conversations throughout the day.  We switched to the Merritt Parkway in Connecticut and followed it until we reached I-287.  After entering New York, we crossed the Hudson at the Tappan Zee and continued southwest into New Jersey.  We switched to I-78 and stopped for gas at a Phillips 66 in Lebanon, NJ (1205).  We took US-22 back to I-78 and then crossed the Delaware River into Pennsylvania (1245).  We stopped for a break at the Welcome Center there and then got back on the road.  Mollie and I had even more fun talking in the afternoon.  We followed I-78 to I-81 and then I-83 to PA-581.  From there, we drove via US-15, I-270 and I-495, making good time to Alexandria.  We arrived at Nicky's by 1630 and I dropped off Mollie and all of her stuff.  I got to see Erin (she gave me a bag of food and mail to take to Brenna's) After leaving, I called Brenna to make plans to meet her for lunch in Harrisonburg the next day. I also called Sabrina and we decided to meet up to have dinner at a new restaurant (Tequila and Taco) in the Eisenhower area of Alexandria.  We were there from around 1715 to 1845 and had a nice meal and then talked for another 30 minutes when I dropped her off at her house.  I then used US-1 to get to Fort Belvoir (arrived at around 2000) and checked into my hotel.  After getting things settled in my room, I took a walk nearby for just under an hour.  Finished the night by reading my book until around 2300 (had trouble sleeping because of car alarm going off throughout the night).