I was up by 0530 and got ready - it was another beautiful day! Left the hotel (0645) and used US-11E and TN-70 to get to the trailhead. Picked up breakfast (ordered inside) at McDonalds in Greeneville (0700) and then retraced my route from yesterday to get to the top of Viking Mountain. I was parked in Jones Meadow by 0800. Started on the blue-blazed trail that took me to the AT - I turned left at the first sign of white blazes and headed east (AT NOBO). Temps were initially near 40 degrees but there was also a cool breeze on the ridge - so I stayed layered (2, light jacket) all day. I made a quick visit to the Blackstack Cliffs within the first mile. The visibility was tremendous and I could see the high ridges in GSMNP, as well as Greeneville, to the north (TN) and the entire Shelton Laurel Wilderness to the south (NC). The section was “J” shaped, with the curve on the east side, so I was able to see where I was going almost all day. Like yesterday, some of the trail stayed below the high ridgeline (at ~4.5K feet all day) and I enjoyed some flat hiking. After reaching Bearwallow Gap, however, the AT started following the highest terrain. It was rocky and, at times, a bit scary (due to uncertain footing and big drops below). The view made the effort worthwhile, though, and I marveled at the Smokies from a “King of the World” position. After the rock scramble, the trail settled down again - there was an old fire road near the trail and the AT kept crossing it. The trail also crossed some pretty balds, with few trees and lots of grasses. This was nice because I felt pretty warm - would have layered down a few times but the cool breeze (and patches of snow) made me reconsider. As I cris-crossed the NC/TN border repeatedly, the utter silence around me gave me the sensation that I was completely alone in the Universe. The occasional woodpecker, hammering away on an old tree, would remind me that it wasn’t so... Passed the Jerry Cabin Shelter - there was no one there. On the outbound leg, I had one more rock scramble at Big Butt Mountain. Since there wasn’t a view, the climb seemed pointless. About 100 yards after I was back on the “flat”, though, I found a memorial stone to a 1968 Thru Hiker who’d later requested that his ashes be spread on the AT - made me think... A bit later, I caught up with the Air Force Vet Thru hiker I’d seen the previous day - he was employing the “slow and steady” approach so I passed him and followed a long, gradual downhill grade to my turnaround spot: the Shelton Graves. There were a few stones in a small clearing - it looked like most of them were placed during or soon after the Civil War (I later found a link that explained why they were there). The AF dude caught up to me while I was taking a break (almost 7.5 miles from my car) and we talked for a bit about his night in the Shelter (cold). Began my backtrack soon afterwards - despite not hiking anywhere near the distance since November, I felt surprisingly fresh. Since I’d seen several alternatives to the AT (dirt road, bypass trails), I skipped almost all the big climbs and rock scrambles in an effort to avoid wearing out my legs. This worked well and I shaved off some distance and, subsequently, lots of time during the return leg. It may be because I wasn’t on the AT for the whole day but, regardless, I only saw one other person before I was done. The backpacker (older guy, section hiker?) appeared to be considering taking one of the bypass trails as I approached Blackstack Cliffs again - my report of easier going while following the blue-blazes helped him decide... Finished up with the access trail I’d used in the early AM and made it to my car by 1430 (completed close to 15 miles). The temps had settled in the mid 50s by then. Felt sore but was also elated to have made such a big dent in the 20 mile section in the Shelton area. Decided to go back to Greeneville (used TN-70 and US-11E) and checked into the Econolodge at 1600. Had trouble with the hot water but the receptionist helped me resolve the issue. I ate dinner in my room again and spent the whole evening reading and deciding where to hike in the morning (Max Patch area looks like the leading candidate). Went to bed at 2130, exhausted from my hike. AT Today = 7.1 miles / G.T. AT = 1778.3 miles / AT Left = 407.0 miles
