Since I was a kid, I’ve wanted to climb Mount Lincoln (5089’) and Mount Lafayette (5260’), both on the Franconia Ridge. The AT crosses both peaks and I thought I could kill two birds with one stone. Of course, this meant I’d have to use one of the trails from the lot on I-93 (east side, 1450’) to get up there… I’ve learned that early birds are the only hikers who get a parking space in the Franconia Notch, I departed my condo at 0600, hoping to be one of them. I used I-89, US-4, NH-118, NH-25 and I-93 because was concerned about large crowds all the way (Canaan and Lincoln) - fortunately, I arrived in time (0730). One of the AMC (or Franconia State Park) volunteers told me that the best way to hike these peaks (“to avoid falls on the way down”) was to climb via the Falling Waters Trail, hike the AT NOBO and descend via the Greenleaf Trail & Bridle Path (in other words, counterclockwise loop). Despite the steep climbing that appeared to result from such a plan, I took his advice (along with almost everyone else who left civilization when I did) and started my hike (0745). Temps were initially in the low 60s and it was overcast. I’d used Falling Waters Trail (blue blazed) previously and remembered it as steep and mentally challenging - perhaps such foreknowledge wasn’t a good thing because it seemed harder than last time (ugh). I stopped a LOT on the way up and, at several points, questioned the wisdom of the whole plan for the day. My 50+ year old body protested in nearly every way it could, demanding that my brain acquiesce to the temptation to head back to the car. Lots of young people passed me - it actually felt like the Peloton catching a failed breakaway - I but I caught almost all of them when they took THEIR many breaks. We commiserated about our difficulties and reveled (it’s all we had) in the game of “Leap Frog” we were playing all day. Very few people were descending via this route. Somehow, I managed to reach the summit of Little Haystack Mountain (4800’) and took a longer break there to psych myself up for the daunting climb of Mount Lincoln to the north. I put on a light jacket (a cold wind was blowing) and managed to start my (woefully short) AT section (NOBO). The trail was just as steep as it was on Falling Waters but I quickly realized that the image of the goal (peak) helped me keep moving, even if my eyes were checking my footing almost all the time. It was a shame not to feel pleasure in the spectacular views I had on the treeless ridge but a ranger had (unhelpfully) warned several of us about an approaching thunder storm - this added pressure to get done (“get-there-itis”) that I’d wanted to avoid… I was passed by some NOBO Thru hikers who looked just as exhausted as I was, even after hiking 1800+ miles from Georgia. I made it to the top of Lincoln (no sign but Guthook confirmed it) and then had to deal with a large descent, a short climb, a short descent and (finally) a HUGE climb to the summit of Lafayette. I made it to my goal, though - I’m sure it was 99% mental because my desire not to maroon another AT section completely overrode everything else (I had cramps in leg muscles that have never complained). I rested and ate on the peak for almost 30 minute and, seeing Greenleaf Hut 1.1 miles and what looked like thousand(s) of feet below, I started downhill towards I-93. The Greenleaf Trail was very steep but I no longer felt the strain of stepping uphill so often. As I descended, the sun was shining and temps had climbed into the high 70s - I was very glad to reach the tree line again just before I arrived at the Hut. I looked around inside but decided against another break - soon, I was walking downhill on the Old Bridle Path (yellow blazed). From what the volunteers in the valley had told me, this trail was supposed to be better for footing - I call “fake news”! I saw far more slippery granite slabs (with no handholds) than made me comfortable and I nearly face planted multiple times. One of these slips was epic - I managed to avoid falling altogether by leaning forward, with my feet windmilling underneath, until I found myself upright again. The price for this “save” was some painful Charlie-horses but, at least, I had my pride because there were witnesses! I did some more leapfrogging with familiar faces and talked to optimistic hikers coming uphill - the contrast in mental state of starters vs. finishers was stark. Best moment of the descent: a view of most of the Franconia Ridge that included all the terrain from Lafayette to Liberty (wow!). Otherwise, I just focused on my footing and tried to resist the urge to predict my completion time… One of the people who passed me was a young guy with a bunch of boxes tied on his back - He was apparently one of the Hut staff-members and was taking food up the mountain - until today, I'd only heard about them. Just before I reached the end of my hike, a small rain squall dropped water on me - fortunately, it’s impact was dampened by the thick tree canopy. I made it to the car at 1515 after completing over 11 of the toughest miles I can imagine. Oh wait, there’s more AT hiking left in the Whites - maybe I can find something *more* difficult… Took my usual route home through Haverhill (I-93, NH-141, NH-18, Wells Road, NH-116, NH-10, River Road, NH/VT-25, I-91) and started plotting my next AT adventure! AT Today = 1.7 miles / Grand Total AT = 1843.8 miles / AT Left = 341.5 miles / NH 4000 Footer #8 and #9 of 48
