The biggest logistical challenge facing me as I try to finish the last ~250 AT miles is correctly timing, assessing and reading the unforgiving weather in the White Mountains. With such high elevations involved, a minor change in the temperature or wind could turn a pleasant hike into a near death experience. Yesterday, I noticed that there was rain forecasted for all the AT trailheads I wanted to use but that today’s weather was likely to be better. Of course, “better” is relative… I did manage to get a really early start (0600) on the road this morning, though, so I figured I had a fighting chance to carve out a few more miles in the Presidentials. I used I-91, VT/NH-25, River Road, NH-10, NH-116 (continued into Franconia), I-93, NH-141, US-3 and US-302 (Mount Clinton Road). Unfortunately, when I arrived at the Mount Washington Cog Railway Base Camp (hoping to ride up and hike down) the mountain was “socked in”. The clouds appeared to be only above 5000 feet, though, so I decided to drive down to Crawford Notch to see if I could use one of the access trails there to get on the ridge. The Crawford Path was one option I considered but I decided, in the end, to park at the trailhead for the Edmands Path (about three miles north) because the location gave me a chance to summit one of the 4000 Footers and also hike a little AT. From there, I started hiking up the slope of Mount Eisenhower on a blue-blazed trail (0830). Since I wasn’t sure what kind of weather I’d encounter, I was carrying two coats, microspikes and other winter gear… As I climbed the initially gradual grade, I started encountering people who had given up their climb - this concerned me because I’d thrown all my eggs in the basket of “maybe I can accomplish something on this trail.” Soon, however, it became clear that I was prepared and that the “turn backs” hadn’t thought through the logistics. I had to walk about three miles before I reached the ridge and found it was very cold (30s) and windy (30-40 knots). But the sky was relatively clear (the peak of Washington was becoming visible) and there wasn’t any ice (whew). I donned every warm thing I’d brought and carefully made my way to the trail junction for the Eisenhower Loop. At this point, a young couple that had been leap-frogging with me during the climb told me that this was their 42nd 4000 Footer - I would have tipped my cap to them but I was too afraid it would blow away! We climbed together to the top of Mount Eisenhower and were treated to 360 degrees of spectacular views. Other hikers, coming from both sides of the peak, soon joined us. If it weren’t so cold, I think more people might have stayed for a lunch break - but we all soon scattered off the top, looking for shelter from the elements. Since I wanted to hike a few miles of the AT (SOBO, in the direction of Mount Pierce), I headed down a different way from the path I’d used to climb. This got me into a large group of section hikers (from Massachusetts) who’d been on the ridge since the previous Friday. Understandably, they were extremely happy to only have a few miles left before they could get a hot shower and warm bed. On the other hand, they thought I was crazy to be doing one of my “out & back” day hikes. To each his/her own… I had enough energy to make it to the Crawford Path trail junction on the north slope of Pierce (downhill almost all the way( before I turned around and climbed back up to the Eisenhower Loop trail junction (roughly two miles). There were SO many people up there! Throughout my hike on the ridge, I was treated to Jekyll and Hyde weather - sometimes I was hot and sweaty and other times I was REALLY glad for 3+ layers. In my opinion, the walk on the AT around the base of Eisenhower was a worse route than the trail to the summit. Through the years, I’ve learned that the AT is so (over?) travelled that it’s almost always a rock scramble - there is also almost no soil (except occasional mud) or any trees to use for a hand-hold. For that reason, I’ve had to work very heard so I don’t fall and hurt myself. By the time I reached the Edmands Path again, I found that I really enjoyed using the side trail (mostly better than AT). Once I was back in the trees, I made great time to my car. Only in the last 30 minutes did I realize that I hadn’t seen or felt any bugs all day - what a far cry from last weekend! I was done hiking at 1430 and was pleased to have logged almost 11 miles on a marginal day. Afterwards, I drove home by almost the same route as the morning (except I used NH-141, NH-18 and Wells Road to reach NH-116). Encountered some rain on the way. Thought about visiting the new Hatchland Farm building but figured it out that it was closed. Arrived home at 1630. In addition to having a good hike today, I later learned that I only have 3.3 miles to hike back to the Edmands Path (I use the Cog Railway option again) and I’ll be done with the southern Presidentials! Crossing fingers for some good weather in the Whites this Summer… AT Today = 2.2 miles / Grand Total AT = 1936.8 miles / NH 4000 Footer #13 of 48
