Somehow, with all the time zone changes, I still managed to sleep until 0530. I read and relaxed in my room until it was time to down to the lobby area for breakfast (0630). They had a really good spread! I did some more reading afterwards. At 0915, I walked downstairs to the ground level where, after some great experiences in New Zealand, I continued my “Tour de Coogan” this morning. For the first time since I'd first interacted online with a fellow genealogy researcher over 20 years years ago, I met Clive Coogan (0930). He has traced his Irish roots back into the 1790s and has extensive records of the family’s activities since their arrival in Australia in the the mid Nineteenth Century. He’d always had a standing offer for me to join him "for a pint" and we were finally able to make that happen today! That was great, all by itself, but Clive then spent the whole day driving me (to get my bearings) to several areas in and around Melbourne. Despite not having met him before, we settled into a relaxed familiarity that I've noticed comes with the types of people who research their family history. We both agreed that 20 years of collaborating and communicating set the stage for an easy meet-up, even if none of our family or friends could understand... Starting from my hotel in Southbank, we checked out City Centre, St. Kilda and Port Melbourne. Along the way, I got to see amazing beachfront property and parks (from several angles) on Port Phillip Bay, the city skyline and Yarra River from the top of the West Gate Bridge. Then, to give me an even better idea of what life was like for his family in the early days of Australia’s modern history, Clive drove me out to the west (on the M1, Princes Highway) of Melbourne. The weather, which had started out dreary and rainy, turned marvelously sunny and warm - I felt very lucky! At 1120, we made a stop at a service area (BP Little River Geelong) so we could buy food. I got some gummy type snacks called Allen’s Retro Party Mix and a lemon flavored Sprite. We continued west on M1, passing expansive fields on the Werribee Plains. Clive told me that the Coogans owned land here and used for their herds of sheep - we ended up visiting farmland (formerly owned by his ancestors) in Lara. The Coogans spent many years in the area and Clive shared his happy memories of life on the farm with the distinctive peaks of the You Yangs range (considered sacred to the Aboriginal community of Wathaurong) in the background. We proceeded next to Geelong (pronounced “J’long”) so we could see where Clive's family members are buried. For over an hour, we wandered around in the East Geelong Cemetery, looking for old stones, until we got help from the on-site staff. For my CRG website, I transcribed some of the (broken and nearly illegible) tombstones. Clive told me he was pleased to have been able to show me the family plots. Continuing west, we made our way (through graceful, rolling hills) towards the Great Ocean Road but ended up having to turn around due to traffic jam, construction and sobriety check points. I was surprised (and intimidated) by the many speed, red-light, seatbelt and cell phone use cameras (yikes)... We stopped at the Mount Moriac Hotel (established 1844) at 1415, hoping to get a bite to eat, but had to settle for beer (Great Northern Super Crisp Lager) because the kitchen was closed. It was great to celebrate our family histories and realize that it might have been 200 years since two Coogans from our distant branches had last shared a pint together... Afterwards, we drove a short distance to the Mount Moriac Cemetery to look for more Coogan cemetery stones. These folks were not certain relatives of Clive's family but there was a good possibility of a distant connection. I did some more transcribing and, reluctantly, agreed that it was time to head towards Melbourne. We used the scenic route, back roads that took us around the north side of the You Yangs, trying to find kangaroos. Unfortunately, we had no luck. Back on the M1, we had a good ride until we got back to the West Gate Bridge. Clive knew some back roads under the highway) and he eventually found a place (Coles Express in Port Melbourne) where he could get some gas before his drive home. In gratitude for a wonderful tour of the area, I gladly filled up Clive’s gas tank (1600). Using surface streets, we reached Southbank at around 1630. After I thanked him again for a great day of exploring and fun, Clive dropped me off a few blocks from the hotel so he could get back on the M1) and I walked the rest of the way to Holiday Inn. I dropped several things in my room and then went out again to explore. Due to flight delays last night, I'd got into Melbourne much too late to explore. With more time available today, I decided to do some walking and exploring along the Yarra River, which was only two blocks away from the hotel. First, I crossed over the river to City Centre and checked out Flinders Street Station. While there, I learned more about local public transport options and decided to try the Tram System after dinner. Walking a short distance, I stopped to try a restaurant recommended by my Lonely Planet Melbourne Guide: “MoVida”. It was located in an alley (Hosier Lane) with colorful graffiti-covered walls and so popular that I believe was I was quite fortunate to get a seat at the bar. I ended up choosing a delicious dinner of “Croqueta” (sweet corn, queso manchego, burnt butter croquette) and “Cecina” (air dried waygu beef, truffled potato foam, poached egg). Meanwhile, I sampled some (more) local beer (Hop Nation “The Buzz”) and had an interesting conversation with another diner on holiday from Perth. Afterwards, I walked back to Flinders Street Station and boarded a northbound (free) Tram (following Swanston Street) that took me several blocks away, through Chinatown and past the State Library Victoria, to where RMIT University was located. The streets, trams and restaurants were packed by then (1900)! After looking around in a mall I found at Melbourne Central Station, I rode back on the tram to Flinders Street Station. Wanting to purchase a Myki Card, I attempted to use the machines near the gates. It seemed like everything was in order until I was about to use the card for the first time. Wanting to be sure I was doing things correctly, I sought the assistance of a helpful Flinders Street Station attendant and he informed me that “your card doesn’t have all the zones you are entitled to”. He recommended I not use the card until I visited the support center at Southern Cross the next morning (I took his advice). Next, I crossed the Yarra again and took the stairs down to the water level. The more I walked, the more evidence I saw that indicated Melbourne was quite pretty by night, lit up with lots of colors. I strolled around in an area with Rowing Clubs (people were out rowing in the dark!) and enjoyed artwork in Southgate and the Casino at Queensbridge Square. With lots of ideas about things to do tomorrow, I returned to the hotel (2000). Did some blogging in my room until bed time (2230). Today was wonderful! Clive was a gracious host and guide - through him, I gained a new appreciation for the hearty pioneers that built State of Victoria. More Melbourne tomorrow!
