Montreal Jazz Festival - Day 2! I was awake by 0500 but managed to get myself back to sleep until almost 0800. I played around on my computer for a bit, did some reading and Duolingo and went to breakfast (French fare) in the hotel restaurant. There were lots of people there and they were almost all hacking and coughing. I wasn't ready to depart the hotel until just before noon. Rain was forecasted but the streets of the old city were calling so loudly that I decided to brave any potential elements. I departed Berri-UQAM, with no particular destination in mind, and walked down to the Vieux Port. I then made my north to the Old Clocktower on the St. Lawrence River. While standing on the pier there, I became interested in an island that I could see across the swift-running waters. Since it wasn’t pouring at that moment, I began a search for a foot bridge that might take me over there. In hindsight, I probably should have just paid for a ferry ride but the river was so strong that even the largest boats were having trouble fighting the current - walking seemed wiser. Next, I made my way south, paralleling the river and Lachine Canal. At times, I found myself on long islands/peninsulas that formed the shipping terminal but I couldn’t find a way to cross the main channel until I encountered the Lachine Canal Bike Path. The weather started to worsen at that point. Despite the wind and rain, there were plenty of serious cyclists and I followed a well marked path until I was on the Rue Quai-Bickerdike. From there, it was a straight shot north to a bridge that took me on to the Ile Sainte-Helene. By this point, the rain and wind were really nasty but I kept going because I could see the ferry landing ahead. Reaching dry land again after my harrowing bridge crossing, I walked into the Parc Jean-Drapeau, where the Bio-Sphere is located. Most of this area of Montreal, especially the nearby Ile Notre Dame, seems to have connections to the 1976 Olympics and I wanted to see/explore/learn history. By that point, though I didn’t feel like walking too much farther through the wet/wind so directed my steps towards a small bistro I’d spotted. Inside the warm, dry restaurant (1355), I dined on some good food (egg salad sandwich, chips, cookie) and tried a Griffintown Ale. This beer, which was really good, was also kind of special because the Coogans settled in Griffintown when they first arrived in North America in the early 1840s. Afterwards, I explored the park for a little while. But then the rain got worse - I was tired from walking anyway so I started toward the ferry landing. Just then (1435), though, I noticed that there was a Metro station on the island! Quickly purchasing an "Opus" card (for the subway) that had two trips on it, I was whisked across the Saint Lawrence and made it back to my hotel less than 20 minutes later. I’m certain that a ferry ride would have been nicer on a day with good weather but the subway was definitely a nice alternative. Three hours, six miles, calories burned and lots of memories made in Vieux Montreal! After getting back to my hotel room (1500), I spent some time drying off and resting before my next adventure. At 1620, I departed the hotel again and walked to the nearby Metro Station. From there, I took a train to Place des Armes and then walked to Notre Dame Basilica. Arriving at about 1640, I waited for about 10 minutes before they opened the door for people to attend Mass. When Owen Coogan stepped off the ship in Montréal in the early 1840s, the Basilique Notre Dame de Montreal was a little more than 10 years old (the towers weren’t even finished). He was later married there and his family received all their Sacraments in the parish. For this reason, then, it was a special moment for me to attend the parish of my ancestors as a participant in Holy Mass (everything was in French). It’s been years since this was “our family’s” spiritual home but I like to think my visit renewed the membership. Afterwards (1745), I explored the church afterwards before walking due west towards the event zone for the Jazz Festival. The rain during this time was relentless and I was pretty soaked by the time I rolled into the Quartier des Spectacles (1800). I caught a performance by Uplift514 soon after I got in and also located the Pub Molson venue, an area I’d missed the night before. Arriving early (the festival had started less than one hour before) had a major perk - short lines. This included restaurants in the event zone and I managed to snag an inside table at Lola Rosa’s, a popular vegan spot at the Place des Artes (1815). I’m not normally interested in meat substitutes but the “Lola Cheesesteak” on pretzel bun, frites with herb mayo and side salad (washed down with a Rousse Ale Ambre) was delicious! The line was huge by the time I left (1900), mostly because of the continuing rain. I listened to the Dusty Brass Band at Le Cabaret again before starting a circuit of the other stages. Tonight I caught sets by Alicia Creti, Madison Ryann Ward, Noe Lira, Ekep Nkwelle and Little Magic Sam. The latter performer was actually a blues group from Toronto and I enjoyed their music so much that I attended both sets they did. By the second one (2100), the rain had stopped and all the remaining hardy souls were dancing, clapping and cheering. Like yesterday, I was able to forget my normal life and fade into some smooth sounds. After Little Magic Sam finished their last song, I walked northeast (passed through St. Denis pedestrian area). As I reached 10 miles of walking for the day, I felt very glad I’d spent so much time outside today.. Arrived at my hotel by 2215 and spent the rest of the evening reading. Bed at 2345. The return to the Jazz Festival has turned out just like I'd hoped!
