Sunday, November 4, 2018
Shady Valley, TN (USA)
Gotta love the time-change - got an extra hour of sleep! Was on the road by "0600" but got hung up getting breakfast: McDonalds had trouble with my order, paying and the type of food. The end result, though, was that I got some upgrades on my McMuffins and free hash browns - I guess that's good... When leaving town, I debated which direction to drive (too far south and east and I'd have to take a different way home). Initially, I started to drive south on US-19E (to do a section near there) but realized that I'd be better off heading back north (so I could do more distance in VA). Decided to return to the AT trailhead on TN-91 (about 20 miles from Elizabethton) to close up a section gap that I'd left since I first hiked in the area in 2014. The weather was 100% different from the previous day - sunny, cool (but not cold) and much dryer hiking surface. With such a dramatic environmental difference, I only wore two layers (although I brought a third) and headed NOBO at 0715. Had to cross a huge field - full of cows - and had some interesting encounters with horned creatures before I reached the brightly colored tree line. I started a good climb as I got deeper in the forest, following an old road bed. It was much less rocky but there were still muddy areas. I ran into four SOBO Thru hikers (two solos) before I reached the mid-point, Double Springs Shelter - otherwise I was alone. They other hikers talked about how cold they had been overnight and that they were finding that the winter weather made it harder to keep the slower pace they wanted to hike. As I topped the ridge (~4.5K'), the trail crossed to the other side, where I was immediately blasted by strong, chilly winds. Brrrr! I was treated to views into Shady Valley and deeper into Tennessee on the west side - spectacular! The turnaround point was a challenge because I used to (2014, no AT Guide Book) make decisions about when to backtrack based on distance I'd hiked from the road. So my notes for this area said "1.5 miles south of US-421" and didn't note a landmark. Fortunately, I had cell signal for once and was able to gauge my distance from the pavement - the deja vu feelings about the trail surroundings (top of Locust Knob, Campsite) were present but I liked having an "objective" metric. Started back towards my car and found myself alone all the way back to the big pasture. At that point, though, everyone must have figured out that the weather was great for a day hike and I passed 10 people (including a cute toddler on his dad's back) in the last mile. Finished the section at 1115, after 10 miles (feeling great), and immediately got on the road to reposition for part two! After hiking the section in Tennessee, I drove north on TN-133 to Damascus. In my explorations yesterday, I'd located a few places where the AT crossed the "highway" east of town but had been unable to find where it crossed the Virginia Creeper Trail (cinder railroad bed, now a bike path). Got back on US-58 and navigated the stunning number of daunting switchbacks as I drove east. Fortunately, I had a lot of bike shuttle vans to follow and observe. Also, I was able to utilize my awesome Forest Service sectional map to narrow down the search and find a way to carve up the long section I've still got between Damascus and Whitetop Mountain. Got off the highway at both VA-859 (found Creeper Trail but not AT) and VA-728 (found Luther Hassinger Memorial Bridge, which both trails used to cross Whitetop Laurel Creek). At the latter location, I found a recreation area but there was no official trail up to the bridge - over 100 feet above the parking lot. Luckily, I saw some bikers scrambling down a steep embankment and managed to climb up to the trail above (1245). From there, I headed south across the river (barely missed being hit by a LOT of bikers) and located the AT. On this leg, I didn't carry a backpack (or any gear, for that matter). I find that it is nice to walk without the body strain sometimes and this section validated that idea again. From the bike trail, the AT plunged into the woods and then climbed up again steeply (but with some helpful switchbacks). I'd decided to try to reach the Lost Mountain Shelter, to set up my next hike with a definitive landmark. Passed a young couple out for a day hike but didn't see anyone else until I reached the shelter. There was a SOBO Thru hiker there - not chatty, all business. So I arrived, took pictures and headed back towards my car. Within a few minutes, he was following close behind. Unencumbered by a backpack and feeling fresh on the downhill return, I was able to stay in front of him for a mile or so - then he blew by me without any words. After that, I didn't try to "race" him... Finished up at 1430 after four miles (includes the backtrack). Headed for home, I drove east on US-58 and VA-603 until reaching VA-16. Got back to I-81 and headed north. It was pretty smooth sailing until I got to about 10 miles south of Salem (another traffic jam) - I hate I-81!!!! After getting off and back on I-81 a few times (to avoid completely stopped traffic), decided to get gas (1625) in Salem (Gobble Stop). Then took VA-419 and back roads west of I-581 to get on VA-117. Avoided the worst traffic and then got on US-11 until reaching Daleville. Made my way back on I-81. Talked with Erin several times on the way (about the delay) - it was basically bumper to bumper all the way to I-64(E). After that, I made better time. I arrived in Harrisonburg at 1855 and stopped at the Cracker Barrel for dinner. Erin joined me and we talked for about an hour (finished at 2015). After saying goodbye to her, I headed north from there on I-81 (there a little traffic even that late) and I-66 (much better). Narrowly avoided some nasty construction near Fairfax and arrived at my apartment by 2200 - whew! Loving the longer hikes, cooler weather, challenging terrain and the feeling that I'm only 50 miles away from finishing the nearly 600 miles of AT in Virginia! The biggest downside to my AT plans is that the distance of these zones from my house - six to seven hours of driving (as much as I like the open road) is physically draining. I realize this can't always be a "leisurely stroll" but have decided I need to focus more on Shuttle Rides to avoid re-treading distance when I have limited time. Regardless, I'm jazzed up and can't wait to get out on the trail for more! AT Today = 7.00 miles / G.T. AT = 1227.62 miles