Saturday, November 17, 2018
Pearisburg, VA (USA)
What a day! I’d been waiting to hike a long section on the AT north of Pearisburg for several years - it was simply too long for my normal out and back strategy. There was also a major reroute of the trail in the area and I had a lot of trouble finding credible information about the mileage and terrain changes. I probably would have waited a few more years to hike the section but my friend Bob (local farmer) offered me a shuttle between two trailheads this weekend - so I seized the opportunity! We met in town at 0800 and drove over to the new trailhead on VA-641 that I’d read about online. Then Bob took me to where the AT came close to VA-635. I started SOBO at 0900, expecting not to see my car again for as many as 17 miles. In the first mile, I encountered three different hunters who were brazenly seeking prey on the trail itself. It’s funny, though: I never saw a single deer all day. I climbed up to the ridge-line, which also served as the border of West Virginia and Virginia - was hiking north for a few miles before heading “south” as I reached the intersection of the Allegheny Trail. The snow, which had been a thin vernier on the ground to that point, suddenly became a thick coat of white (over an even thicker ice layer) on every tree and bush. Some of them were weighed down so heavily that the trail was blocked. The forecast said the temps would reach 55 degrees but the winter wonderland I’d found was much colder - was very glad to have work three layers! I was in the fog for a few hours and wondered if the sun would ever appear. Didn’t see anyone up in the clouds but I noticed some footprints (going in the other direction), along with canine prints (going my way). At around noon, I finally started to see beyond the hundred yard bubble I was in - I could see pretty farms in both states. Then the heat of the sun started to loosen the ice from the tree tops - end result: “hail”! This second phase of my hike was a bit unpleasant, as I was soon drenched and started to feel cold. I encountered two Flip Flop Thru hikers going north - one was covered with a strange looking orange trash bag but was wearing tennis shoes and the other was wearing shorts (!!!). Caught a bit of their hiking vibe and pressed on. Passed some paper taped to trees on one of the balds - figured it must be related to the controversial Mountain Valley Pipeline that had been in the news last spring... After I’d reached what I thought was the halfway point (9ish miles), I suddenly realized another (very young) hiker was following me! I let him pass but kept up pace enough to talk to him (“Swiss Feet”, Ryan) for the next several miles. He told me he’d been having terrible nights - near hypothermic - and was dying for a warm night in Pearisburg, even if it required a 30+ mile day. After hearing this, I offered him a ride. But shortly after that, we arrived at the Rice Field Shelter (along with beautiful, sunny views on the bald). Ryan decided to stop for a rest but I kept going (he said he would catch up). Right afterwards, the re-routed trail section started - I could see the Celanese Plant just below me but the trail doubled back to the east, directly under the Shelter! From there, it was a frustrating series of switchbacks, greatly extending the trail mileage. There were almost no white blazes and several confusing trail forks. On the plus side, there was no snow and the trail surface was smooth and well designed. Was very surprised to find my car earlier then I’d expected (pedometer must not have worked correctly). Had thought about continuing to US-460 but still didn’t really know how far it was. Decided to call it a day at 1530. Waited for Ryan for a little while and soon heard loud shouting from the hillside. I learned later that he had found another ride and didn’t want me to wait - but when he reached my car and explained what happened, I gave him a ride anyway. Took him to the Angels Rest Hostel and wished him well - trail magic karma balanced out well! After I was done hiking, I went back to the Holiday Lodge and checked in (1655). Ate leftover pizza in the room and read my book ("On Trails"). Before going to sleep, I texted Bob to thank him and he offered to give me another ride in the morning! So I’ll try to finish the section when the sun comes up. AT Today = 15.30 miles / Grand Total AT = 1242.92 miles