Sunday, December 16, 2018
Konnarock, VA (USA)
Woke up very early, excited to see whether I'd chosen wisely about staying in the area. It had rained all night but the pre-dawn mist was all the moisture that remained. Still, the forecast called for rain all day so I didn't want to waste any time getting started. Larry insisted on another hearty breakfast (pancakes, sausage, eggs) and gave me a hand-made AT necklace! He also invited me to return for another stay at his hostel if I was ever in the area. Full of good food, I departed Damascus. Driving on US-58 (east) was slow going - it was very foggy and dark - as I could barely see the road. I carefully made my way to the gravel road (VA-601) near Konnarock where the AT trailhead was and, when I got out of the car, was met with chilly mountain air. As I've done for over a month now, I left behind some of my normal "overnight supplies" and, instead, brought more clothing layers. Today I wore my rain poncho too, since the cloud-like environment was constantly wet. The section I planned to hike was located between US-58 and the access road on top of Whitetop Mountain and I started NOBO from my car (0715) with the intention of swapping out gear when I backtracked to the "highway." On the way up the mountain (constant climb), it wasn't too cold or wet and encountered several deer. Near the top of the ridge, however, I found a thin layer of snow (almost ice pellets) and, after the trail made a huge switchback, I found some wind and much deeper snow. At first, I enjoyed the quiet winter solitude and took pictures happily. I'd brought a winter coat but it was safely in my backpack. I was wearing waterproof gloves and my Santa Fe Stetson so didn't feel cold. However, the conditions got worse as I continued on the plateau - especially as I passed through two different treeless balds. The wind was icy and biting and, while there was no precipitation, the snow blew sideways and massed in deeper drifts. I got fooled by a road that I crossed - I'd expected to see a one where I turned around previously and wishfully thought I'd found it. However, I figured out (with the lack of deja vu tingles and some rare GPS signal in the area) that I was still almost a mile from actual USFS-89 (Whitetop Mountain Road). I learned later that my mileage was off and that there was at least 0.5 to 1.0 more hiking for me than I'd expected. Trudged slowly onward through the snow, wind and fog, hoping to see evidence of the turnaround point... Instead, I was startled to see another hiker! He was extremely bundled up and must have thought I was the crazy one (long sleeved shirt, rain poncho, cowboy hat...) and he may have been correct! I learned that I was only about 100 yards from the road and that he was one of four section hikers that were headed SOBO. A second (lady) passed me but I never saw the other two. By the time I started my backtrack, I could barely hold my phone to take photos it was so miserable and cold. But, as usually happens, my hike back to the car goes quicker because I know what's coming. I caught up to the two section hikers more than once (we leapfrogged) as we tried to get back to the treeline and windless side of the mountain. Eventually, we were all in a rhythm and hiked down together (with me in the lead). It was great to get out of the snow but then it started raining... Made good (drenched) time with "Ranger Rick" (?) and "Joda" (she climbed Kilimanjaro in the Spring) as we made our way (back) to VA-601. Talked about flying, favorite section hikes and logistics to finish the AT. They stopped at the trailhead (to wait for their friends) but I kept going (never did swap out gear...). It was still raining, so the section between my car and US-58 was essentially a series of mud-rivers, some across wide open pastures and some in the "forest" of rhododendrons. "Enjoyed" a bit of climbing/descending too. Fortunately, it wasn't as far of a distance as I'd thought - I had already turned around and was halfway back to my car before I encountered all four of the section hikers (never really talked to the last two, though). Was happy to see the car again as I slip slid my way across the open fields at the end of my day. Done (after nearly 10 miles) by 1130. By then, the rain had stopped and I was able to change out of my muddy/drenched clothes. Last time I have to drive into the remote Mount Rogers NRA zone again - less then 10 miles left of AT in Virginia! Decided to drive home via VA-603, VA-16 and I-81 - crossing fingers for a speedy and safe drive home. Got gas in Daleville at around 1430 and Was relatively fortunate, as far as traffic was concerned. Unfortunately, I did get the passenger side of my windshield bashed by debris from an 18-wheeler near Gainesville (ouch!). Made it home, though - whew... Great hiking weekend! AT Today = 3.90 miles / G.T. AT = 1281.52 miles