Erwin, TN (USA)

The forecast said it was going to be raining everywhere so I didn’t hurry out of town. After getting breakfast at Chick-fil-A (0805), I used US-321 to get to I-26 and headed south. I was able to see for miles in all directions and didn’t see any rain clouds so started thinking about hiking in North Carolina. Stopped for some advice at the Unicoi County Visitors Center (Mollie and I had found it in early 2017). The Volunteer (get it?) was very helpful and showed me where the AT crossed the Interstate (Sam’s Gap). He warned me away from parking there (regular thefts) but I decided to at least check it out. I had to use some back roads but eventually found the trailhead. Saw two other cars and decided to hike there, despite any risk. By then, it had started to sprinkle but I wore my rain poncho again and headed SOBO (0915). There was an immediate climb and I had some good views of I-26 and the trucks that were struggling to cross the gap. Like most of the AT nearby, the trail wound back and forth across the TN-NC border. As I passed 3.5K feet, I reached a dense fog. Still higher, a strong wind blew the rain sideways - it hurt! Sometimes, the wind blew away the fog and I could see a bit farther - but most of the climb was rather miserable. It was probably 55 degrees when I left my car but the wind on the ridge made it feel like 30s. Didn’t see any people or wildlife but heard the ominous cracking and crashing sounds of trees and branches falling nearby (there was at least one tree that fell on the trail after I’d passed and I had to find a way around during the backtrack). Was very happy to reach my turnaround point (Hogback Ridge Shelter) - headed back immediately. I was happy to reach the warm, clear and drier environment near my car by 1115 (after around five miles of hiking). Still felt good so drove back to the north (used TN-352 for a short time) until I reached Erwin. There was no evidence of rain in the Nolichucky River Valley so I parked on River Road (on the other side of the bridge from Uncle Johnny’s). Thought maybe I’d see the dog that hiked with me in 2017 but he never made an appearance... Started NOBO at 1145 and enjoyed the rather flat beginning of the section. Later saw some amazing views of the Nolichucky from the steep (precarious) cliff that the AT took to navigate north. Crossed a large number of swollen creeks, some that overwhelmed the trail in water and mud. There were so many birds out today - guess they don’t think it’s winter yet... Got to one place where two or three huge trees had recently fallen, almost obliterating the AT. Found my way around with great difficulty. In the last mile of my outbound leg, the trail got much steeper (with no switchbacks) and I slowed down tremendously. As I was nearing the top of the ridge, I encountered two older ladies (they looked like twins) who had been dropped off by a shuttle driver at Indian Grave Gap. They told me that it was raining heavily there (about five miles away) and I was glad I’d started in the valley... We parted ways quickly and I eventually made it to my turnaround point, Curley Maple Gap Shelter. I normally head back right away but this time I rested there for about 15 minutes, reading trail wisdom in the shelter log book and enjoying the ubiquitous graffiti. Headed back downhill and made great time - was going so fast that I caught up to the lady hikers again. They had been having a tough time with the downed trees, the mud and the distance. Based on their appearance and demeanor, I recommended they get off the AT when we reached the Nolichucky Campground. They agreed but asked me to help them find the way. Learned it was the first time that “Sun Flo Jo” and “Holly” had hiked the AT together - Holly had never done anything close to the distance or terrain and had COPD. Neither of them had gear or maps (it reminded me of myself when I first started section hiking). I guided them back to the hostel via the road (arrived at 1545 after more than nine miles) and they thanked me for the Trail Magic. I was glad to help and wished them well on future adventures. As I was getting in my car, it started to rain... Luckily, I was done for the day (14+ miles and only got a little wet)! Drove back to Elizabethton and started watching the weather for tomorrow’s hike. Ate dinner at Amigo Mexican Restaurant in Elizabethton (done at 1825) and read in my room until bed time. AT Today = 7.10 miles / G.T. AT = 1257.02