The wind blew pretty hard last night but I was shielded (and relatively warm) in the shelter. Surprisingly, I slept relatively well but woke a few times to sounds of scurrying rodents and other people snoring. By 0430, I was actually completely awake and couldn’t get back to sleep because my shelter mates began to get ready for departure. Since the sun wasn’t up, I waited until almost 0600 to get down from the shelter loft - by then, nearly half the other hikers were gone. Took my time getting packed, filtering water and eating breakfast. As a result, I didn’t leave Cosby Gap until almost 0745 (just behind E.T.). But I felt rested and ready for the climb up Mount Cammerer! It was cool and breezy so I started the day overdressed - this helped me stay warm as the winds picked up during my decent and climb out of Low Gap. The sun was shining again and I got some tremendous views! Passed E.T., who had found a cell tower and was making plans for resupply later in her Thru hike. Otherwise, I was alone - this is something I like about hiking with the NOBO Bubble… Unfortunately, it was during the part of the hike where I lost my inflatable mattress. I thought I’d secured the small pouch well in the same place with my tent but I realized it had fallen off my backpack just as I arrived at the Mount Cammerer Trail. Decided to look for my mattress later and, instead, walked the 0.6 miles to the Lookout Tower (recommended by Kip). The views there were even better than what I’d seen during my whole hiking trip! After enjoying them for a little while, I retraced my steps for over a mile. When I passed an older couple who I’d seen at the shelter last night, I asked if they’d seen the mattress - they hadn’t. Since I figured it was completely lost, I turned around and started north again… Soon, the AT took a decidedly downward incline and I was able to pick up my pace significantly. Passed several other hikers who had left before I had this morning and several groups of young backpackers heading uphill. Besides those few, however, I didn’t see many other people… The sun got warmer and I fought the urge to keep going, like I would with my 3L water reservoir, so that I could stay hydrated. I wasn’t entirely successful in this goal… Before I knew it, I’d reached the northern boundary (on the AT) of GSMNP at Davenport Gap. Since I’d already hiked everything beyond this, it didn’t feel good to have to log an additional almost three miles - but I had no choice. Realized at this point that I hadn’t left a lot of gas in my stamina tank… As I crossed the Pigeon River, it took all of my energy to continue walking uphill. I was only about a mile from my car but it might as well have been a million - three days of attempting to control calories, replace water, catch sleep and manage the psychological elements of this trip finally caught up with me. I sat down near the road (next to a huge ladder of steps where the AT disappeared into the woods). Not sure what to do, I was pleasantly surprised when a Standing Bear Shuttle Driver passed by and offered me a ride! This was just what I needed and I was at my car about five minutes later (1330). It was strange to be back in civilization and, before I left, I decided to visit the hostel bunk house to see some of the folks I’d been hiking with for three days. They were all really happy to have a kitchen, laundry and mattress - small victories for most of us but big wins for a Thru hiker! Saw E.T. there - she told me she’d fallen down hard after I’d last seen her and it had taken all of her willpower to reach the hostel. Reluctantly said goodbye to everyone… No one had seen my mattress so I started making plans to find an REI. When I turned my phone back on, I found almost 200 emails and several voicemails. One email informed me that new fires in GSMNP had caused the Park Service to close US-441! One voicemail told me that the road to Clingman’s Dome, which was supposed to open on April 1, would only open a week later (road construction). Finally, the weather forecast showed another few nights of freezing - after my 30 degree night, I knew I’d need more equipment to survive in sub-20s. Since the loss of access to Clingman’s (let alone US-441) would already add tremendous distance to my planned hike of the western side of the park, I decided that it was probably a good idea to cancel that part of my trip and head north again. Not really happy about this situation but, it seems, too many things were conspiring against success. Still feel pretty good, though... Before getting on the Interstate, I made calls to NPS Backcountry Office and shuttle driver, canceling my plans beyond March 30. I then drove north on I-40 to Newport and got on US-321. Stopped for gas at Shell (1340). Back on the road, I listened to audiobooks. Continued on US-321 to TN-352 and then took that road to I-26. When I reached I-81, I continued into Virginia. Hit a bit traffic jam close to Marion, so I got off the main road there and checked into the Travel Inn (1715), a place I've used for the last several years during trips to this area. I found that some AT Thru hikers were staying there too but I didn't know any of them. Got a shower and cleaned up before heading to dinner at Pizza Hut (1800). Stayed there for about an hour and then went back to the room. Spent much of the evening listening to audiobooks and working on travel blog. Went to bed at 2215. In three fun days, I finished 30 more new miles of AT (plus about 5 more in side trails) and met some great people. And now I have an excuse to make another trip to the Smokies! AT Today = 7.0 miles / Grand Total AT = 1923.6 miles / AT Left = 261.7 miles
