South Arm, ME (USA)

After I saw snow on the High Peaks recently, I had to admit that I’m running out of hiking opportunities...  Meanwhile, the weather keeps coming up aces and tempts me to get out on the trail each weekend.  Anticipating sunny skies and temps in the 40s, I took today off from work so I could hike for three days in Maine.  After filling up my gas tank at Irving in Hanover (0640), used I-91, NH/VT-25, River Road, NH-10, US-302, NH-116 and US-2 to reach the hiking zone.  Listened to audiobooks on the way.  Temps remained in the low 30s during my entire drive - yikes!  Picked up breakfast at McDonalds in Gorham (0845).  Continued on US-2 and then turned on ME-5 near Hanover (ME) .  Followed that road to Andover, then drove got on ME-120.  After that, continued north on South Arm Road until I found the AT trailhead (1000).  The parking area was situated on the west end of one of my last sections south of the HMW and I was really looking forward to tackling it.  By 1015, I was headed NOBO on the AT.  Even though it had warmed up a little, I was wearing a long sleeved shirt and carrying two more layers - ultimately, I never needed them.  There was no wind and the sun was shining brightly in a clear sky.  Even better: the Fall colors on the trees were as pretty as I’ve seen this year.  Unfortunately, the trail conditions were much tougher!  As I walked north, I had to climb more than 2000 feet up tremendously steep terrain - one photo I took (after less than a mile of walking) shows how close Old Blue Mountain (3600’) was to the road.  Also, as I’ve seen everywhere in Maine, the trail was strewn with wet rocks, wet roots and ankle deep mud (the kind that steals shoes!).  Needless to say, the nice weather conditions were forgotten after a few miles of determined slogging… The view from the summit was pretty good but I knew I’d have an immediate (just as steep) descent - so I kept going.  The trail never got easier after that and I had to navigate several large climbs and descents as I got farther from my car.  As a result, I decided to turn around at the junction for the Bemis Stream Trail.  Didn’t waste time before backtracking because it had taken me almost four hours to walk six miles - ugh…  As I made my way south, I noticed a large number of big moose tracks in the mud on the trail - I hadn’t seen them on the outbound leg so began to wonder if a moose was close… I did better on the way back and was just reaching the top of Old Blue for the second time when I ran into the only person I saw all day.  He was a NOBO Thru hiker named “Lat” and he was WAY behind the Bubble.  In fact, he conceded that he probably couldn’t finish before Baxter State Park closed but he was going to try anyway.  I wished him well and continued towards my car.  It was only at this point that I became aware of how steep this morning’s climb had really been - the treacherous, technical conditions threatened to send me hurtling to my doom at nearly every step… I’d promised Erin that I’d watch Austin’s White Coat Ceremony at 1730 and that time arrived before I was off the mountain.  I stopped for a bit and, somehow, got a cell signal, which allowed me to see his big moment.  By this point, though, it started to get dark (sun falling behind high peaks to the west) and I REALLY didn’t want to be on the trail in the dark!  I walked as fast as I could after that and made it to my car just before 1815.  It wasn’t pretty but I managed to get 12+ miles of hiking before the weekend even began!  I'd not really thought very hard about where I might stay for the night so I made a few calls before getting on the road.  I eventually learned that Shaw's had one last bed left ("Glamping Tent") so I decided to head to Monson.  It got dark soon after this, making the drive a bit more challenging...  I used South Arm Road to reach ME-120 -and then followed that road to the town of Mexico (after crossing the Swift River) and then used ME-17 to reach US-2.  The rest of my journey to Monson required me to use US-201A, ME-150, ME-151, ME-16 and ME-15.  Listened to more audiobooks on the way.  I was a bit worried about moose or deer crossing the road but, fortunately, didn't see any.  Actually, there were very few cars, either...  Arrived at Shaw's at around 2100.  Got checked in and then visited with hikers ("Shadow" and "S'mores" were there; I'd met them last weekend) for a bit.  By 2215, I got situated in my tent and went to bed a bit later (2230).  Looking forward to some more HMW hiking tomorrow - hope the weather holds a little bit longer!  AT Today = 6.0 miles / Grand Total AT = 2083.4 miles

Carrabassett Valley, ME (USA)

After an overnight and breakfast at the Hostel of Maine, I felt like I’d integrated into a NOBO Thru Hiker Bubble!  After getting up at 0530, I went into the common area and overheard conversations about the best of various experiences (dehydrated meals, hostels, restaurants, etc.), “pre-hike” briefings (weather, trail conditions, etc.), gripes about sore joints and an underlining (and palpable) angst about whether one had enough days to reach Katahdin before winter weather.  Each of these intense exchanges was counterbalanced by light hearted chatting about funny trail activities, jamming out to “granola” tunes, trades of favorite trail snacks and seeking sources of Mary Jane.  The hikers refer to their group as a “Tramily” and there was plenty of bickering and bantering.  Last night I’d learned the hostel ran a shuttle to two AT trailheads and I coordinated a drop off with the rest of the hikers.  After we’d all eaten as many calories of the delicious breakfast as we could, the shuttle took about six hikers to the AT Trailhead on ME-27 - I followed in my car.  From there, several of us got a ride to the trailhead on Caribou Pond Road (where I’d parked yesterday).  By 0830, we were walking up the gravel road in search of the AT crossing point (0.5 miles away).  Temps were in the 40s but there was very little wind.  As a result, I only wore one layer (long sleeved shirt).  Once at the AT, we headed NOBO.  This section was known for including a “trail sign” (built out of collected trail rocks) that indicated the 2000 mile mark for the NOBO Thru hikers.  This made them go slower, actually, because they didn’t want to miss it.  Meanwhile, I just got down to hiking business and began the 2000 foot climb of South Crocker Mountain.  It was a steep ascent but, for just over two miles, I didn’t stop to enjoy the occasional views because I felt energized and didn’t want to lose any momentum.  As a result, I passed five “peak bagger” day hikers and left the AT Thru hikers behind.  From an overlook just before the summit, I was able to see the full panorama of the Bigelow Range too - very impressive! As I reached the top, I met two SOBO LASHers (hiking the whole AT in Maine) and enjoyed the view at a scenic overlook.  It was clear that the cooler temps in the last 48 hours had made a huge impact on the quality of the Fall foliage - there were far more bright colors visible on Sugarloaf than I’d seen the day before.  The Thru hikers caught me there but I then departed the vista point before they did.  A bit later, I literally stumbled across the “2000”, which was hard to see in the mud.  It wasn’t really my milestone but I have walked that far (and more) so I took a selfie… I had to traverse a deep “saddle” that lay between South Crocker (4050’) and North Crocker (4228’) but, after climbing many similar summits in the Whites this year, I didn’t find the descent/climb too difficult.  Passed a group of three more peak baggers just before I reached the second peak - was then disappointed not to have any view… By this point, I was five miles from my car and the trail began a long descent to ME-27.  Strangely, I only saw one more person (young guy with his dog) for the rest of the day.  I was able to set a good pace and was happy to find the trail stayed mostly in the shade because the sun came out and raised the temps into the low 60s.  But there really weren’t any places to stop for views and I walked mindlessly for several hours with no sounds but those of birds and dropping acorns.  At 1345, I reached the road and determined that I’d covered almost 9 miles.  Very glad I was able to tackle this section today!  All I’ve got left in the area is a hike between Sugarloaf and Saddleback - will try to finish that next summer.  After cleaning up and checking my map (for the best route), I got an early start on my drive home.  Used ME-27, ME-16 (all the way to NH border), NH-16, NH-110A, NH-110 and US-3 to reach Lancaster, NH (listening to audiobooks on the way).  Stopped for early dinner at McDonalds (1615) and later continued driving on US-2.  It started raining at around 1630 and never stopped.  Meanwhile, I looked for a good gas price. I'd thought I had about 40 miles of fuel left and was trying to reach St. Johnsbury when my car's fuel gauge went screwy.  As a result, I stopped short of town (at the intersection of VT-18) and got some (high priced) gas from PettyCo Junction station (1655).  Relieved, got on I-93 nearby and used it to reach I-91.  Despite rainy conditions all the way, I arrived home safely just before 1800.  Unpacking in the rain wasn't fun... Feeling fortunate to have had another successful hiking weekend on the AT.  Wish me luck for at least two more this year!   AT Today = 8.3 miles / Grand Total AT = 2077.4 miles / AT Left = 107.9 miles

Carrabassett Valley, ME (USA)

After my big hiking trip last weekend, my knees started giving me trouble.  This was the first time I’ve noticed this kind of pain in a long time because I’ve been doing a lot of helpful exercises and working out at the gym (recommended by my VA PT).  Last year, this might have meant the end of my hiking season but, fortunately, I was able to recover by this morning.  I hadn’t made any concrete plans while waiting to see if I’d be OK so left later than usual (0715).  Used I-91 to get all the way to I-93 and then took VT-18 and US-2.  Got breakfast at McDonalds in Lancaster (about 0830) and then continued east on US-3.  Next used NH-110, NH-110A and NH-16.  Then continued past Errol and entered Maine (road became ME-16).  Drove through Rangeley and followed ME-16 to Eustis.  Finally, took ME-27 to Caribou Pond Road - whew!  The four hour drive (and subsequent delay in getting on the trail) was actually a good thing because the temps were in the 40s until I reached the closest point to the AT trailhead (1130).  As I shut off the engine, I noticed 50 F but the wind was pretty strong.  I had to hike about half a mile on gravel Caribou Pond Road (which had a gate) in order to reach the AT but was eventually able to start hiking SOBO up the northern face of Sugarloaf Mountain.  After a harrowing river crossing on a flimsy plank, the trail rose steeply, reminding me of the Whites with its sharp granite ferocity.  I was wearing two long-sleeves layers but took the jacket off as I started to sweat.  Somewhere near 3000 feet, however, the cold wind overcame any benefit that strenuous exercise had given me so I put the jacket back on.  Along the way, I got some spectacular views of peaks and valleys nearby, as well as some strong hints of bright fall colors.  I passed seven NOBO Thru hikers, a trio of trail runners, a small group of Boy Scouts and a few day hikers who were bound for Spaulding Mountain.  The Thru hikers told stories of harrowing nights on the ridge, with high winds and ice... One last day hiker gave me an attitude unlike any I’ve seen on the AT - she apparently was so annoyed by me stopping to take photos and get my bearings (perhaps because I was “in the way”?) that she literally said “one of us needs to get going so we don’t leap frog each other all day”. I’ve never had any leap frog complaints before; usually I laugh about it with the other hikers.  Anyway, I welcomed her to pass me and, after she turned on her afterburners, never saw her again.  When I reached the trailhead for Sugarloaf Peak (4250’), I decided not to brave the increasingly chilly temps and heavy wind and just backtracked towards my car. Halfway down the mountain, I encountered a young couple who were having a tough time with the rocks, mud, roots and wind and they seemed glad to “hitch a ride” with me on the hike.  I enjoyed their company all the way to the bottom of the ravine, especially after they explained how they were on a six month “Van Life” type journey.  They  had chosen some amazing places to live for 30 days at a stretch and we exchanged Intel about travel bucket lists.  When we were done (1530, after 7 miles), I had to start looking for a place to stay - this was hard because many, many leaf peepers had filled up the available lodging.  Tried a few hotels near the trail that I've visited before but they were sold out.  Thought about driving all the way to Kingfield (or, even, Farmington) and started south on ME-27.  Suddenly, I saw a sign for the Hostel of Maine and, when I enquired, managed to get a bunk bed there for a very reasonable price.  Jackpot!  After getting a shower, worked on 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle with another hiker.  I later tried one of my Good-to-Go meals, did some reading and spent the evening listening to stories of the Thru hikers as they arrived.  I met a dad from Richmond, VA, who had come to pick up his daughter and drive her to Katahdin (so she could climb it before the weather turned really bad).  I settled into my (comfy) bed at around 2200.  As I drifted off to sleep, I kept thinking that this has to be (by far) the fanciest hiker hostel on the AT.  I’m all snug, warm and dry now and filled with good vibes the Thru Hikers brought.  Life is good!  AT Today = 2.2 miles / Grand Total AT = 2069.1 miles

West Lebanon, NH (USA)

I took the whole day off because I had such a busy day of volunteer activities!  Started the morning (0745) with a workout (45 minutes of swimming, 45 minutes of rowing/biking) at the UVAC in White River Junction.  Afterwards, I volunteered (2.5 hours) with the UVAC Facilities Team and helped set up for the September Celebration.  When I was done (1200), I went home for a few hours so I could get some food and prep for my afternoon service project.  At 1500, I drove over to West Lebanon to set things up.  When I arrived to our clean up location (behind Staples on NH-12A), I found Herman was already there and picking up trash!  Our West Lebanon Team’s participation in the Connecticut River Conservancy's Annual Source to Sea Cleanup 2022 officially began at 1530.  I was ultimately joined by nine conscientious souls who energetically picked up all manner of refuse that lined the edge of the Connecticut River (all the way down to Best Buy).  One major source of garbage was an abandoned homeless encampment just a few feet from the water’s edge.  We actually didn’t venture down the 10+ foot embankment to the waterline because the recent rains had swollen the River to high levels and currents.  Instead, we focused on the deep brush on the top of the cliff, trying to prevent trash from eventually blowing into the water.  The team was comprised of friends from the Knights of Columbus, Jesse’s Happy Hour group, Connecticut River Conservancy and the Lebanon Conservation Commission.  Everyone filled several bags and made an obvious positive impact in the visual cleanliness of the riverbank.  As Team Captain, I was responsible for the Trash Tally; I later determined that we managed to collect almost 400 pounds (in more than 20 bags) in just over two hours.  I was amazed at the amount that just a few people could remove in such a short time and was encouraged to hear the others talk about possible future efforts.  Afterwards (1800), a few of us (Bruce and Ed) had some drinks and a good meal at Ziggy’s.  Stayed until almost 2000 and then headed home.  It was great to be part of the multi-state effort to cleanup an important watershed near my home - even a small victory in the battle against pollution makes larger ones seem possible!

Northeast Piscataquis, ME (USA)

Yesterday’s weather was so spectacular that I really hoped to “ride some coat-tails” into the middle of today.  Unfortunately, it started raining during the night and was pouring by the time I woke up at 0500 (I actually couldn't sleep by then because the raindrops on the roof of the car were so loud...).  I read, packed up and ate a light breakfast (mostly staying in the car so I'd be dry).  Departed my campsite by 0600 and drove a short distance north (to the AT Trailhead on Jo Mary Road).  While I was getting ready to leave the car, I saw another car drop off a hiker and depart again.  For my part, I departed the parking area (NOBO) at 0630.  I’ve rarely departed my car with a 100% chance of rain for the whole hike but that’s what I did today...  It was warmer than I’d expected (low 50s) and I wore my rain poncho which helped to maintain my core temp.  Within the first mile, however, all exposed parts of my body were soaked.  Around this time, I caught up to a Thru hiker who was headed the same way I was.  Her trail name was “Spark Plug” and she was a great-grandma from Arkansas who was working on her third attempt to Thru hike (she’d aborted for injury and family drama two previous times).  I hadn’t expected to stay with her but we both must have wanted the company on such a miserable today and we hiked together for my entire outbound leg.  We had several stream crossings and lots of muddy areas (made worse by the incessant precipitation) but we kept plodding north until we reached the Antlers Campsite on the shore of Lower Jo Mary Lake.  The trail markings weren’t clear here and we debated which way we should go - then a disembodied voice said “Go Left!” and we knew the way.  (During my backtrack, I met the person who had helped us - she was the female half of a couple hiking the HMW together and had been giving the advice since the previous afternoon since their camp was at the trail junction.)  Spark Plug and I kept going, slogging through mud, until we reached the glacial boulder I’d used as a turnaround point the previous day.  We said goodbye, but not before she asked me to pass a message (via “Trail Mail”) to another NOBO named “F Log”.  I agreed to do this and started my backtrack - only later did it occur to me that Spark Plug (and her husband) may have been the people I encountered at the campsite the night before... It was strange to be hiking alone after that but I soon had other problems to consider - my socks had finally succumbed to the non-stop rain and I started wondering if I’d get a bad blister.  But there was really no where to stop and get dry so I just kept going.  I actually didn’t get any snacks or try to change clothes during the entire hike… Meanwhile, I passed about 15 other hikers, all Thrus except for an older couple who were bound for a wilderness campsite on the other side of Pemadumcook Lake (by boat) and two LASHers (who may have been the folks who left some Trail Magic at Johnson Pond Road Trailhead).  The last hiker was F Log and I was finally able to pass the message.  I reached Jo Mary road again by 1230, about six hours and 14 miles since I’d left it.  There was a big crowd of hikers getting their resupply from a driver from Shaw’s (I’d met him in August). I didn’t hang out with them long because everything I was wearing was full of water (but my backpack, protected by the poncho, was almost completely dry). Just then, it stopped raining...  After changing out of my wet clothes, I drove south on Jo Mary Road until I had cell signal.  I actually stopped there so I could check on emails, etc. - I ultimately departed the area at 1330.  To get home, I basically backtracked via the same route I'd used to get to the hiking zone (ME-11, ME-6, ME-150, US-201A, US-2, ME-156, US-2).  Listened to more audiobooks on the way.  Rain was intermittent throughout the drive.  Got a gas fill-up at Irving in Gorham (1720) and then used US-2 to reach NH-116.  Eventually continued via US-302, NH-10, River Road, NH/VT-25 and I-91.  The rain got worse as it started to get darker...  Finally arrived home at 1930 and unpacked in the downpour.  Despite the long drives and difficult weather, this weekend was quite satisfying - unlike the previous two, I was able to knock out some serious mileage (16+) without using any side trails.  Crossing my fingers for a few more days like this before the end of 2022! AT Today = 6.9 miles / Grand Total AT = 2066.9 miles

Northeast Piscataquis, ME (USA)

It was a cold night (high 30s) at my campsite at Johnston Pond (KI / Jo Mary Multi-Use Area) but I was prepared with plenty of warm clothes.  I woke up a few times during the night because the temps fell into the 30s (brrr).  There were clear skies above, though - pretty.  By the time I woke up (0645), I was wearing three layers of clothes by sunrise and this helped me to sleep towards the end.  Consequently, this meant that I got a later start then I’d planned.  Oh well - sleep is good!  I packed up my campsite quickly and drove east.  When I reached Jo Mary Road, I found a cell signal - decided to check on some emails at that point.  I then drove north to the Henderson Checkpoint, where it took me a few times passing to figure out how to use the automated checkpoint process.  Somehow, I got a cell signal nearby (after not having one for a long time) and reached the Ashland office for the Multi-Use Area.  The lady on the phone made me feel better about the whole operations and I then continued on a maze of gravel roads until I found the correct route to the trailhead near Nahmakanta Lake.  I saw two moose in the road - barely got a photo before they disappeared into the woods.  I eventually (0830) located the AT Trailhead at the south end of Nahmakanta Lake (Nahmakanta Stream Road).  It was about 0845 when I started my hike (SOBO) and the temps were still in the low 40s - for the first time in months, I wore a long sleeved shirt and light jacket!  I’d chosen this section because I wanted to try to complete nearly 15 mile stretch of AT that was south of the lake  before heading home on Sunday.  From my AWOL guide, it appeared that it would be mostly flat - after a bit of a climb and descent in the first mile, this turned out to be true.  Actually, this might have been the flattest section I’ve hiked since I finished the 90 miles in the Shenandoah... There was the typical Maine combo of mud, roots and rocks but I barely broke a sweat all day.  I met 10 NOBO Thru hikers (spread out in the first four miles) and all were trying to reach Katahdin before the forecasted rain within the next 48-72 hours - this was doable but required two to three 25+ mile days.  One of the hikers, “Skippy” (Justin), told me a good bit about his trip (he started in late April) and I enjoyed the “nearly done” vibe.  Got a real treat in the middle of my outbound leg: my first ever view of Katahdin (looking across Pemadumcook Lake) without clouds or other obstructions.  With the unusually clear weather, it was a spectacular image (photo doesn’t do it justice).  The trail was not well marked for hikers going south - I lost track of the blazes at least three times because of unclear turn points (I discovered later that things were much better going north). I reached the Potaywadjo Lean-To, which was just about in the middle of this section, and decided that I should climb the little hill to the south of it so I could eliminate a climb-descent-climb the next day.  After all the big mountains I climbed this Summer, the hill was so easy that I didn’t realize I’d completed it until I was starting down the other side.  Decided to use a giant balancing boulder near that spot as my backtrack cue… By this point, I’d hiked over eight miles but still felt pretty good.  As a result, I walked all the way back to my car without stopping, arriving at 1615 after more than 16 miles.  Felt good, too!  Hadn’t seen any other people so it meant my speed was comparable to the Thru Hiker Bubble.  Temps had, by then, risen into the mid 60s.  Another positive: I had plenty of time to make my way back into the KI / Jo Mary area again before it was dark.  Decided to use this time wisely and move my campsite from Johnston Pond to somewhere closer to the AT crossing of Jo Mary Road. Drove back to Henderson Checkpoint and used the phone in a box I found there (also used internet nearby).  Asked Jo Mary Checkpoint (via phone) to change my campsite for the night.  At first, the lady said I could try Pratt Brook Campsite ("it might be open") but I found people there (lady, man and dog with big camper).  I didn't have a cell signal there, so I drove back to Jo Mary Road - just after reaching it, I saw a small bear crossing the road!  When I found a cell signal again, I was able to ask about the Johnston Brook Campsite and then drove over to check it.  Fortunately, I found it empty and was able to set up camp.  I made myself dinner (dehydrated meal of rice, beans, veggies) and relaxed on an embankment above the creek.  The site was very pretty.  Listened to more audiobooks while drying my clothes.  I'd checked the weather when I had cell signal and it forecasted nasty weather the next day...  Went to bed at 2130 but didn't sleep long because someone started running a generator at around 2300 (for about an hour) at a campsite nearby (grrr).  Eventually fell asleep again... Hope to have enough dry weather tomorrow to wrap up the rest of the section. AT Today = 8.0 miles / Grand Total AT = 2060.0 miles

Northeast Piscataquis, ME (USA)

The weather forecast for the North Country looked nice enough to try another AT hiking trip this weekend!  Since the drive is usually so brutal, I asked my company for a half day (they agreed).  As a result, I only worked until 1030.  I then packed up my car and departed my condo by 1045.  Used I-91, VT/NH-25, River Road, NH-10 (lots of slow traffic), US-302, NH-116 and US-2 to reach Gorham.  Stopped for gas at Irving (1255).  Listening to audio books all afternoon...  Used US-2 (more slow traffic) and, at Wilton, got on ME-156 to by-pass Farmington (encountered construction delays).  Eventually, I was back on US-2 and followed it until Skowhegan.  Then took US-201A to ME-150 - used that road all the way to ME-6.  Got an early dinner at McDonalds in Dover-Foxcroft (1550) and continued east to ME-16, which I used to reach the junction with ME-11 (more construction delays).  Finally arrived at Jo Mary Checkpoint at 1700 and paid for two days in the area.  Continued into the Multi-Use Area until I reached the AT trailhead on Johnson Pond Road (1730) - my car didn't like some of the gravel road (slippery control issues!).  Had to change in order to get hiking.  By this point, it was windy and cool (50s).  Before leaving the parking area, I noticed a Prius parked there and some trail-magic in a cooler by the trailhead...  As I hiked (SOBO) into the woods, I kept thinking about how lucky I was to have reached a place in the Hundred Mile Wilderness early enough to hike.  I made good time to the top of Little Boardman Mountain (had to hike again to connect to a section I did earlier in the month).  Not much to talk about in this short section but I'm glad I finished it!  Overall, the weather was cooler and windier weather than I’ve experienced since Spring - hope things stay like this until Sunday night!  I'd finished hiking at 1900 (after about three miles) and then drove back to the east on Johnson Pond Road.  Fortunately, I'd already seen my campsite (Johnston Pond #4) on the way to the trailhead because it was dark enough in the woods that I could easily have missed it altogether.  Encountered a moose crossing the road on the way!  Once parked, I set up camp (car seat fold-over again).  I then spent the rest of the evening reading, resting and relaxing.  It got dark by 1930 and the temps dropped into the 40s - I layered up accordingly.  Was in "bed" by 2130.  Glad I made it up here for some more trail miles!  AT Today = 1.4 miles / Grand Total AT = 2052.0 miles

Manchester, NH (USA)

[signed off of work at 1130 - drove to Manchester via I-89, NH-3A, I-93 and I-293 - listened to audiobook ("I, Claudius") on the way - was going to use coupon for lunch at Texas Roadhouse but they weren't even open (not until 1500!) - drove across to the (Mall of New Hampshire and stopped for lunch at Bertucci's (done at 1350) - then walked around the Mall, getting steps, for over an hour (also explored in several stores, window shopping) - at about 1500, I walked back to my car and got ready for the dinner - drove into Manchester (I-293) and parked at the Double Tree (1530) - I'd taken my kayak off the roof of the Outback but the rack still tickled the bottom of several hanging obstacles (around 7 feet tall) - checked into the New Hampshire Catholic Charities event at around 1615 - free drink mingling - met several nice people and learned about the annual charity statistics - finger foods only - the Bishop of Manchester gave the keynote address - at 1830, the formal agenda ended and I made my way back to the car - left garage at 1840 and continued north on I-293, went south on I-93 until I could get on NH-3A - more audiobook - got on I-89 and made great time all the way home (arrived just before 2000)]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[after teleworking very early in the morning, I voted in the NH Primary Election (0700) - I then drove over to White River Junction to workout at UVAC (45 minutes of Swimming, 30 minutes of Cardio) - went home (arrived at 0915) for more teleworking - at 1630, I left home again and returned to White River Junction for 1.5 hours of volunteering (pool cleanup) between 1645 and 1915 - got home by 1930]

Bean's Purchase, NH (USA)

Long ago (during the Summer of 1976), our Church's Father-Son group visited the White Mountains.  The trip was memorable for several reasons but the most important one was the impact that a drive to the top of Mount Washington had on me.  Along with the harrowing drive and spectacular views, I remember seeing hikers crossing the summit and thinking “why would they want to do that?”  Today, I was awake by 0500 at my campsite in Milan Hill State Park.  After some reading, I packed up campsite and drove back to town (via NH-110B and NH-16).  Saw early morning soccer players at a school along the way (0630)...  Ate breakfast at McDonalds in Gorham (0700) and then drove south on NH-16 until I reached the parking area for the Nineteen Mile Brook.  Unlike yesterday, the day was overcast and cooler (50s).  It was easier to find a parking spot, fortunately, and I was hiking up the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail by 0745.  I felt a bit foolish while I climbed nearly four miles to the ridge - I had less than three miles of AT to hike and had to cover eight miles of side trail (blue blazes) to get it done... When I reached Zeta Pass (where I’d stopped the night before), I forgot about the extra work and reveled (as a member!) in the gathering of several NOBO Thru hikers.  In addition to enjoying their stories, I got a shock when one of them said she remembered me from my hike in the Smokies back in March.  “Water” told me she’d been taking longer to get done because she kept having to leave the trail for weddings!  She was in a hurry but we agreed that it would be fun if our paths crossed again in Maine... I then began a long, steady climb of Mount Hight, which is taller than 4000 feet but too close to Carter Dome to count as one of the 48.  It does have really great views, though, since the top is above the Alpine Zone.  As I reached the top of Mount Hight, I met a SOBO Thru hiker named “Orpheus”.  During the next few miles, I was treated to an interesting conversation (with him doing most of the talking).  I won’t bore you with a list of all the topics but he referenced Hippocrates, Freud and Louis Pasteur.  Meanwhile, we descended into a valley and then climbed to the top of Carter Dome (4832').  Like Wildcat A (4422'), this peak overlooks the deep gorge/valley called Carter Notch.  The summit wasn’t really impressive but it had taken me over 3800 feet of vertical climb to reach!  As the trail transitioned into a steep descent, we could see the AMC Hut at the bottom WAAY down in the valley (yikes!).  Orpheus continued his tales but they eventually veered into the sad tale of his divorce and custody issues.  He’d actually come out to hike the trail because he’d essentially lost everything - I felt bad for him.  When we reached the bottom of the Notch, I had to say goodbye to Orpheus but I wished him well as he tried to find peace... I skipped a visit to the Hut and, instead, raced down the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail to NH-16.  The trail was still rocky and muddy but I made great time, arriving at my car at 1445 (I'd hiked about 11 miles).  The fact that I’d hiked the last 2.7 miles of the AT in NH didn’t really sink in right away - it actually didn’t seem real because I’ve been working on this for so long.  However, 46 years, 160+ NH AT Miles and 23 high peaks later, I believe I understand why those hikers were in Mount Washington that day...  After changing out of my wet clothes, I drove north on NH-16 until I reached Gorham.  Since I wasn't yet ready for the long drive home, I stopped (for the first time) at the tasting room at Big Day Brewing in Gorham (1520).  I stayed for over an hour, talking to other hikers and the bartenders.  After getting gas at Irving in Gorham (1645), I got on the road.  Talked to my dad and Erin on the way back (via US-2, NH-116, US-302, NH-10).  Arrived in Hanover (from the north) at around 1900 and unpacked my car.  All I’ve got left on the AT is 30 miles in the Smokies and just over 100 miles in Maine.  It looks like the finish line is in sight now! AT Today = 2.7 miles / Grand Total AT = 2050.6 miles / NH 4000 Footer #23 of 48

Gorham, NH (USA)

With less than eight AT miles left in New Hampshire and the White Mountains, I decided to try to finish them before the weather turned sour.  This was easier said than done, however, because the Carter-Moriah section I still had to hike has three peaks higher than 4000 feet and no connecting trails that are less than 3.5 miles... I was up by 0500, finished packing and ate light breakfast.  Got on the road by 0615 and drove north on I-91.  Used VT/NH-25, River Road, NH-10 and US-302 to reach Littleton.  Got a gas fill-up (and free drink reward) at Cumberland Farms (0745) and then continued north.  Used NH-116 to reach US-2.  Picked up breakfast at McDonalds in Gorham (0845) and then continued south on NH-16.  I managed to reach the trailhead for the Stony Brook Trail by 0900 this morning and headed into the woods.  The temps were good (low 60s) and the sky was clear - perfect conditions!  My climb to the ridge went pretty well (I’ve used this trail before) and I passed two groups of hikers (including a group of young ladies from Proctor Academy) with smiles on their faces because of the nice weather.  I turned SOBO when I reached the white blazes (about two hours after I’d left my car) and immediately started passing NOBO Thru hikers and LASHers - I enjoyed a few brief conversations with them about their journeys.  For a while, though, I was all alone on the trail.  Soon after I passed the side trail to the Imp Campsite, I started a long, steep climb up the side of North Carter Mountain.  Though it is taller than 4000 feet, it isn’t considered one of the 48 4K Peaks because it is too close to Middle Carter Mountain.  Regardless, the climb was just as bad as any of the other huge climbs I’ve done in the Whites.  Near the top, I met two guys going the same direction as I was and we joined up for the next several miles.  Tim and Ryan were lifelong friends from Florida who were on their annual Fall Hike together.  This time, they were tackling the wilderness area east of the Carters and only got on the AT to connect two other trails.  We had a great time talking about college football, engineering jobs we’d had, Patagonia and general hiking stories.  This, along with the great weather and views, made the hike seem to go faster.  In reality, though, their pace was much slower than mine usually is and we stopped for several long breaks.  As a result, I realized too late that it would be very hard to backtrack as I’d planned.  I started looking at trying to reach Zeta Pass and descending via the Carter Dome and Nineteen Mile Brook Trails.  This would require as much as a five mile road walk but I figured it would allow me to come back later to easily finish the section without having to climb extra mountains.  I was convinced this was a good plan as soon as I saw the imposing profiles of Mount Hight and Carter Dome in the distance... So, I continued with Tim and Ryan across Middle Carter (4610') and South Carter (4430') peaks (both on the list of 48) and descended into Zeta Pass.  Saying goodbye to those guys, I started down the side trail - only 3.6 miles to the road!  About a mile later, I met a dad (Eric) and his son (Theo) and sheepishly asked if I could get a ride from them back to my car.  Amazingly, they said yes!  By this time, it was 1700 and we still had a while to walk.  We went pretty fast (more good conversation) and managed to reach the parking lot just after 1900.  Another guy was waiting there too - he also needed a ride... Eric and Theo graciously took us to our vehicles and saved me hours of walking.  My pedometer said I walked 15 miles today - am glad I didn’t have to make it 20!  I quickly changed into dry clothes and drove north on NH-16.  Stopped for dinner at Dynasty Buffet in Gorham (done at 2030) and then continued north on NH-16 (through Berlin) until I reached the town of Milan.  I took NH-110B to the entrance to Milan Hill State Park (arrived by 2115).  The park office was closed but I had made a reservation (fortunately!).  In pitch black conditions, I managed to find my campsite and set up my car (folded down back seat) for the night.  Spent the rest of the evening reading and then went to bed at 2200.  Only 2.7 AT miles left in NH now - maybe I can get it done tomorrow... AT Today = 5.1 miles / Grand Total AT = 2047.9 miles / NH 4000 Footers #21 and #22 of 48

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - volunteered at UVAC in White River Junction from 0800 to 1000 (kiddie pool cleaning) - I also did a short workout (stationary bike for 6 miles) - by 1045, I was home again]

Greenville, ME (USA)

After my "Hail Mary" audible yesterday, I awoke (at 0600) in a trailhead parking lot to the northwest of Greenville (near Moosehead Lake).  I spent a little time cleaning up my "campsite" before I departed for town. I’d slept pretty well, although it got pretty chilly during the night.  On the way out of the woods (close to ME-6), I encountered two moose cows who were grazing on the side of the road.  That seemed like a good omen!  Since some local maps showed me that I didn’t have to enter the KI / Jo Mary Multi-Use area (located just east town) but could, instead, use a gravel track (Frenchtown Road) that started east from the town of Kokadjo, I decided to try that option.  After first checking out the Marina and sea plane “corral”, I headed north from Greenville.  The back roads didn’t have names or many signs but I managed to locate a parking area near a gate where a short walk could get me on the AT just north of White Cap Mountain.  By 0800, I left my car and was soon (0.3 miles of walking on Logan Brook Road later) at the AT trailhead.  It was overcast and cool (low 60s) with a light breeze.  A NOBO Thru hiker (“Ranger Randy”) was crossing the road just then and I followed along with him as we made our way towards Crawford Pond.  Randy was hiking his second AT Thru (the last was in 1989) and I had a great time hearing his stories about the differences in distance (42 miles had been added), support (very few of the old businesses he’d patronized were still open) and culture (varied philosophies on equipment then and now).  He showed me how he was keeping track of these differences in a guidebook he had (color coded).  Since Randy had just finished his military career, we found even more things to talk about.  We passed a small group of SOBO section hikers on the way but didn’t see anyone else.  After a few miles (that seemed like they had flown by), we stopped for a break at East Branch Lean-To.  Normally, I don’t take too many breaks - this stop was entirely due to Randy telling me about how he’d met his wife on the 1989 hike and that they were still together.  I also learned that Randy had skipped almost all of the AT in Vermont (because that’s where he lived) so he could finish that after summiting Katahdin.  After we’d gotten some food and he’d finished his stories, we continued north.  Just 0.1 miles later, we reached the East Branch of Pleasant River and found a crossing that required us to get wet (once again, because there was no bridge).  Waiting at the water’s edge, considering his options, was Randy’s friend, “Red Dot”.  I’d recently bought some Crocs and this allowed me to follow the lead of my hiking companions (old pros) in crossing the stream with minimal impact on my socks or boots.  After putting my regular footwear back on, we all continued north again.  Red Dot was a retired Physician who lived a half mile from the AT in Delaware Water Gap.  He was actually LASHing from near Harper’s Ferry and planned to do the southern section in 2023.  Red Dot was full of info on human anatomy, bird calls, trail trivia and life in general.  I should mention that the other two were older than me but I guess I’m now keen on the kind of things old guys like to talk about… After our river crossing, we started a long climb up the southwest side of Little Boardman Mountain, which I’ve heard is the last mountain south of Katahdin.  The climb wasn’t too difficult but the descent down to Crawford Pond (Johnston Road) looked steep enough that I decided to save it for another day.  Reluctantly, I said goodbye to Randy and Red Dot and started my backtrack.  Not long after this, it began to rain.  I was mostly dry under the thick tree canopy but my main concern began to be the river crossing - maps showed that the water could rise enough to be more difficult.  Yeesh... On the way back towards my car, I passed more than a dozen NOBO Thrus and all were unhappy about the conditions of the many water crossings they kept encountering.  And, when I arrived, I swear the water level looked higher after the recent downpour.  Taking advice from one lady I met before my second traverse, I tried to get across the river by bushwhacking downstream and (with boots still on) using some rocks that were (mostly) sticking out of the stream.  This worked out mostly well until I lost my balance and, in an effort to avoid full submersion, stepped into the river with one leg (to my knee).  Drat!  I wrung out my sock at the shelter and then squished my way back to the road.  It stopped raining long enough for me ti make it to my car and change clothes (1530) but then it really started to pour.  Feeling good about how I was able to hike almost 12 miles before the skies opened, I packed up my car and backtracked into Greenville.  When I finally got a cell signal again, I figured out that weather was going to suck for the next few days - and not just in the Moosehead Lake area, but across New England.  At first, I was going to see if I could stay in the area for another (small) chance of AT miles.  After looking around town, though, I realized I was beaten and just drove towards home...  Knowing I'll have to return to this area several more times before I'm done with the AT, I used a Google Maps route what was kind of different than I initially expected.  After taking ME-15 to ME-16, I got on ME-151, which took me to ME-150.  This road continued all the way down to Showhegan.  From there, I used US-201A and some back roads to meet US-2.  Encountered lots of rain on the way... I took US-2 west and, just before Farmington, used some back roads to avoid the shopping areas.  From there, I just rode on US-2 all the way to Gorham.  I got dinner at McDonalds (1945) - there was a LONG wait for food because so many people had the same idea.  By the time I had my food and was back in the car, it was dark.  I wasn't looking forward to another two hours on the road (worried a bit about hitting a moose) but kept going.  Got startled by some (stupid?) folks hitchhiking for rides along US-2 (north of Mount Madison) - yikes.  Used NH-116, US-302, NH-10, River Road and NH/VT-25 to reach  I-91.  Trying to stay awake, listened to audio books.  Made really good time with very little traffic or slow downs (just a couple of hiccups near Littleton), meaning that the whole drive from Greenville back to my house was only about six hours with the food stop included.  Arrived at my condo by 2200 and unpacked - whew! I didn’t get another lucky weekend of good weather and logistics but I did learn some more about the HMW, met some interesting people and chipped away at my remaining AT miles.  So maybe I can still declare victory... AT Today = 5.4 miles / Grand Total AT = 2042.8 miles

Rangeley, ME (USA)

Things looked so good when I woke up this morning: I had a shuttle lined up to hike in Maine (between Sugarloaf and Saddleback), three days to finish a 16 mile section and a weather forecast that looked awesome!  As a result, I was feeling confident about being able to get another nice weekend on the AT.  Since the shuttle didn’t depart until 1400, I took my time packing, making sure I was ready for three days in the mountains, possible rain and lower temperatures. By 0915, I got on the road and used I-91, VT/NH-25, River Road and NH-10 to reach Woodsville, where I shopped for supplies at Walmart (1010). I then got on US-302 and drove to Littleton, where I stopped for gas at Cumberland Farms (1040) and lunch at Burger King (1050). From there, I used I-93 to drive north to the exit for (NH-135), which I took until I took a side road back into Vermont (Mount Orney covered bridge) and, eventually, found US-2. Things started to look familiar as I headed north and I soon found myself at the rotary in Lancaster. A bit later, I got on NH-110 and took it to NH-110A, which intersected NH-16. I followed that all the way into Maine (it became ME-16). On the way, I listened to audiobooks. Unfortunately, my entire weekend plan started to unravel after I reached ME-4, north of Rangeley - I got a text from my shuttle driver that said he was running about 30 minutes behind. Since I was arriving early at the pickup point (1330), this was a bit disappointing. However, I used the extra time to check in with the Saddleback staff (so they’d know I left my car), add and remove items from my backpack, hydrate and eat additional calories so I’d be prepared for the hike when it started. The weather was still awesome and several people came down from the summit of Saddleback (easily visible from my parking spot) with stories of their great hikes. When 1430 came and went, I started to get a bit nervous about whether I’d make the last chair lift. I called Sugarloaf and found out that the last ride uphill left at 1545. Unfortunately, the drive between the two locations was about 50 minutes. Doing some quick math, I figured out that my go/no-go time was 1455. When that time also came and went, I texted the driver and told him I didn’t think the plan was going to work out. Of course, he texted about 10 minutes later to say he was almost there... By then, though, I’d checked the weather and decided that the 70% chance of rain the next day, coupled with a huge climb I’d have to do if I missed the last chair lift, made the whole itinerary less palatable. Sadly, I didn’t have an easily accessible section to hike while I still had good weather... In the end, I had to make a choice about whether to give up on hiking at all or throwing a Hail Mary and driving north into the Hundred Mile Wilderness (to try to squeak out some miles on Sunday before the rain arrived).  Reluctantly (but with certainty), I chose the latter option and departed Rangeley on ME-4 (headed east). I used ME-149 to cut over to ME-234 and when proceeded almost exactly like the route I’d used with my dad the previous week (US-201A, US-201, ME-16, ME-15). By the time I reached Monson, I had decided to drive north to Moosehead Lake - this would give me an opportunity to look for alternate AT access points on the west side of the KI / Jo Mary Multi-Use Area. When I got into town, I got more gas at Irving (1730). From there, I explored near the waterfront and checked around all four sides of Greenville for lodging. Everything looked crowded and expensive so I ventured out to the east on East Road, which took me all the way to Big Wilson Pond and the west side start of KI Road (towards the Hedgehog Checkpoint). I backtracked to town and, hoping to find some maps, drove over to the Moosehead Visitor Center. They were closed by then (1815) but there were some good resources for making hiking plans. In fact, I discovered that I could get on the AT from a trailhead located outside KI / Jo Mary if I drove about an hour north of Greenville. This seemed like a good place to visit the following day so I then looked for a place where I might be able to park/camp outside of town. There appeared to be a promising place located just off ME-6 (west of town) so I felt like I could relax. My day had included very little walking or hiking so I took advantage of a few trails near the Visitor Center and stretched my legs for 30-45 minutes. By 1915, I drove back to town and started looking for the camping area. On the way to Mount Kineo on ME-6, I located North Road, which I then used to find the Big Moose Mountain trailhead parking area. There weren’t any signs saying I couldn’t stay overnight (it actually had the same signs that said “don’t camp for more than 14 consecutive days”, just as they did at the Little Wilson Falls parking lot) so I felt confident I’d be able to stay there. Dinner was snacks in my car. I set up my “camp” and then read for about an hour. It got very dark (pitch black actually) by 2000 but I later went outside to look at the stars and saw a bright half-moon. With no cell signal, I only stayed awake a little longer before going to bed (2130).  The day didn't go the way I'd planned it but, at least, I'm close to the AT for a hike tomorrow...

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - volunteered at UVAC in White River Junction from 0800 to 1000 (parking lot landscaping) - by 1015, I was home again]