After my big hiking trip last weekend, my knees started giving me trouble. This was the first time I’ve noticed this kind of pain in a long time because I’ve been doing a lot of helpful exercises and working out at the gym (recommended by my VA PT). Last year, this might have meant the end of my hiking season but, fortunately, I was able to recover by this morning. I hadn’t made any concrete plans while waiting to see if I’d be OK so left later than usual (0715). Used I-91 to get all the way to I-93 and then took VT-18 and US-2. Got breakfast at McDonalds in Lancaster (about 0830) and then continued east on US-3. Next used NH-110, NH-110A and NH-16. Then continued past Errol and entered Maine (road became ME-16). Drove through Rangeley and followed ME-16 to Eustis. Finally, took ME-27 to Caribou Pond Road - whew! The four hour drive (and subsequent delay in getting on the trail) was actually a good thing because the temps were in the 40s until I reached the closest point to the AT trailhead (1130). As I shut off the engine, I noticed 50 F but the wind was pretty strong. I had to hike about half a mile on gravel Caribou Pond Road (which had a gate) in order to reach the AT but was eventually able to start hiking SOBO up the northern face of Sugarloaf Mountain. After a harrowing river crossing on a flimsy plank, the trail rose steeply, reminding me of the Whites with its sharp granite ferocity. I was wearing two long-sleeves layers but took the jacket off as I started to sweat. Somewhere near 3000 feet, however, the cold wind overcame any benefit that strenuous exercise had given me so I put the jacket back on. Along the way, I got some spectacular views of peaks and valleys nearby, as well as some strong hints of bright fall colors. I passed seven NOBO Thru hikers, a trio of trail runners, a small group of Boy Scouts and a few day hikers who were bound for Spaulding Mountain. The Thru hikers told stories of harrowing nights on the ridge, with high winds and ice... One last day hiker gave me an attitude unlike any I’ve seen on the AT - she apparently was so annoyed by me stopping to take photos and get my bearings (perhaps because I was “in the way”?) that she literally said “one of us needs to get going so we don’t leap frog each other all day”. I’ve never had any leap frog complaints before; usually I laugh about it with the other hikers. Anyway, I welcomed her to pass me and, after she turned on her afterburners, never saw her again. When I reached the trailhead for Sugarloaf Peak (4250’), I decided not to brave the increasingly chilly temps and heavy wind and just backtracked towards my car. Halfway down the mountain, I encountered a young couple who were having a tough time with the rocks, mud, roots and wind and they seemed glad to “hitch a ride” with me on the hike. I enjoyed their company all the way to the bottom of the ravine, especially after they explained how they were on a six month “Van Life” type journey. They had chosen some amazing places to live for 30 days at a stretch and we exchanged Intel about travel bucket lists. When we were done (1530, after 7 miles), I had to start looking for a place to stay - this was hard because many, many leaf peepers had filled up the available lodging. Tried a few hotels near the trail that I've visited before but they were sold out. Thought about driving all the way to Kingfield (or, even, Farmington) and started south on ME-27. Suddenly, I saw a sign for the Hostel of Maine and, when I enquired, managed to get a bunk bed there for a very reasonable price. Jackpot! After getting a shower, worked on 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle with another hiker. I later tried one of my Good-to-Go meals, did some reading and spent the evening listening to stories of the Thru hikers as they arrived. I met a dad from Richmond, VA, who had come to pick up his daughter and drive her to Katahdin (so she could climb it before the weather turned really bad). I settled into my (comfy) bed at around 2200. As I drifted off to sleep, I kept thinking that this has to be (by far) the fanciest hiker hostel on the AT. I’m all snug, warm and dry now and filled with good vibes the Thru Hikers brought. Life is good! AT Today = 2.2 miles / Grand Total AT = 2069.1 miles
