Sunday, September 11, 2022

Bean's Purchase, NH (USA)

Long ago (during the Summer of 1976), our Church's Father-Son group visited the White Mountains.  The trip was memorable for several reasons but the most important one was the impact that a drive to the top of Mount Washington had on me.  Along with the harrowing drive and spectacular views, I remember seeing hikers crossing the summit and thinking “why would they want to do that?”  Today, I was awake by 0500 at my campsite in Milan Hill State Park.  After some reading, I packed up campsite and drove back to town (via NH-110B and NH-16).  Saw early morning soccer players at a school along the way (0630)...  Ate breakfast at McDonalds in Gorham (0700) and then drove south on NH-16 until I reached the parking area for the Nineteen Mile Brook.  Unlike yesterday, the day was overcast and cooler (50s).  It was easier to find a parking spot, fortunately, and I was hiking up the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail by 0745.  I felt a bit foolish while I climbed nearly four miles to the ridge - I had less than three miles of AT to hike and had to cover eight miles of side trail (blue blazes) to get it done... When I reached Zeta Pass (where I’d stopped the night before), I forgot about the extra work and reveled (as a member!) in the gathering of several NOBO Thru hikers.  In addition to enjoying their stories, I got a shock when one of them said she remembered me from my hike in the Smokies back in March.  “Water” told me she’d been taking longer to get done because she kept having to leave the trail for weddings!  She was in a hurry but we agreed that it would be fun if our paths crossed again in Maine... I then began a long, steady climb of Mount Hight, which is taller than 4000 feet but too close to Carter Dome to count as one of the 48.  It does have really great views, though, since the top is above the Alpine Zone.  As I reached the top of Mount Hight, I met a SOBO Thru hiker named “Orpheus”.  During the next few miles, I was treated to an interesting conversation (with him doing most of the talking).  I won’t bore you with a list of all the topics but he referenced Hippocrates, Freud and Louis Pasteur.  Meanwhile, we descended into a valley and then climbed to the top of Carter Dome (4832').  Like Wildcat A (4422'), this peak overlooks the deep gorge/valley called Carter Notch.  The summit wasn’t really impressive but it had taken me over 3800 feet of vertical climb to reach!  As the trail transitioned into a steep descent, we could see the AMC Hut at the bottom WAAY down in the valley (yikes!).  Orpheus continued his tales but they eventually veered into the sad tale of his divorce and custody issues.  He’d actually come out to hike the trail because he’d essentially lost everything - I felt bad for him.  When we reached the bottom of the Notch, I had to say goodbye to Orpheus but I wished him well as he tried to find peace... I skipped a visit to the Hut and, instead, raced down the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail to NH-16.  The trail was still rocky and muddy but I made great time, arriving at my car at 1445 (I'd hiked about 11 miles).  The fact that I’d hiked the last 2.7 miles of the AT in NH didn’t really sink in right away - it actually didn’t seem real because I’ve been working on this for so long.  However, 46 years, 160+ NH AT Miles and 23 high peaks later, I believe I understand why those hikers were in Mount Washington that day...  After changing out of my wet clothes, I drove north on NH-16 until I reached Gorham.  Since I wasn't yet ready for the long drive home, I stopped (for the first time) at the tasting room at Big Day Brewing in Gorham (1520).  I stayed for over an hour, talking to other hikers and the bartenders.  After getting gas at Irving in Gorham (1645), I got on the road.  Talked to my dad and Erin on the way back (via US-2, NH-116, US-302, NH-10).  Arrived in Hanover (from the north) at around 1900 and unpacked my car.  All I’ve got left on the AT is 30 miles in the Smokies and just over 100 miles in Maine.  It looks like the finish line is in sight now! AT Today = 2.7 miles / Grand Total AT = 2050.6 miles / NH 4000 Footer #23 of 48