Scandinavia Trip - Day 27

It's time to return to Helsinki!  This morning, I slept until 0630 and then, after I was awake, I passed more time reading, relaxing, doing puzzles, finishing Duolingo exercises, adding to my eBird records and updating my blog.  I stayed in my room at Park Inn by Radisson (Tallinn) much longer than I had intended but it seemed like a good idea after I had made my reservations on the Tallink Ferry...  Outside, it was overcast and the temps were in the mid 40s.  At 0930, I checked out of the hotel and started walking the half mile (on sidewalks) to Terminal D.  This ended up being rather easy for some reason and I arrived at my destination by 0940.  I immediately checked in for my Ferry and then, feeling settled, I ate breakfast (leftover snack food from the day before).  My "planning" for the transit went so well that I only had to wait about 10 minutes before boarding started.  I was glad to see that I was going to be riding the same ship (Tallink "Megastar") to Finland that I'd initially used to reach Estonia.  From my last experience, I knew exactly where I wanted to go and, within five minutes of boarding, I was set up in the same area where I'd sat on May 10.  This good because it had a charging outlet...  Before the ship was fully boarded, I bought some food for my lunch (and some yogurt to complete my "breakfast").  "Megastar" departed at 1020 and I spent most of the transit to Helsinki reading.  At 1200, I ate my lunch (sandwich & fruit) and then did a little bit of sightseeing from a nearby window.  More importantly than these "time wasting" techniques, however, was the WhatsApp communications I had with Inka, a young Appalachian Trail Hiker I'd first met in Hot Springs, NC (the week the COVID-19 Pandemic Lockdowns began) while she was attempting a Thru Hike in 2020.  She had to leave the trail then but we kept in touch during the intervening years. In 2023, we met up again when she passed through New Hampshire on her successful Thru Hike - I actually helped her with her lost phone scenario and we had dinner together in Gorham. Her invitation to "visit Finland some day" was one of the main reasons for this entire trip...  With plans set for later in the afternoon, I returned my attention to the Ferry transit.  Our ship arrived in Helsinki (West) Harbor by 1220.  By then, it was sunny and the temps were in the high 40s.  Once we were docked, I disembarked the ferry and, with a combination of walking, using stairs and ramps to avoid the crowds (they seemed to gravitate to the escalators), I made it to Tram 7 by 1235.  We were headed north by 1245 and, at 1310, I got off the tram at the Central Train Station.  Next, I walked to Radisson BLU Plaza hotel, where I'd left my bags several days earlier.  I made an attempt (and used all my charm) but the clerks wouldn’t let me check into my room so early (without a €20 fee).  They did, however, let me check my other bag for free.  Since I had lots of time to kill, I walked over to Henry’s Pub to get a drink (ordered at 1325) and a snack.  My spot at a table in front of the restaurant (on "Railway Square") was an opportunity for "people watching" and enjoying the pleasant Spring air.  After finishing my beer, I walked to the nearby Botanical Garden (next to my hotel) to do some birding (started just after 1400).  By then it was overcast but getting warmer.  By 1430, I was finally able to check into hotel - I retrieved my bags during this same process and quickly located my room.  Once I was on the WiFi network, I made an unsuccessful attempt to purchase some ND v Wisconsin tickets in September - I hadn’t been able to get online for a few days and the game was mostly sold out by the time was I was able to view ticket options.  Oh well...  At 1630, I left the hotel and had a chance to resume an incomplete walking tour from my “Rick Steves Scandinavia” travel guide.  With time to digest the images from my last visits (in mid April and early May), I filled in some gaps on prominent landmarks.  Along the way, I passed through University Metro Station and the nearby shopping district.  I explored the Esplanade (which I’d walked through in April but hadn't known what it was) and Market Square.  This time (1640), I got a good photo of the Obelisk in the latter location and a nice view of the Silja Line Ferry departing.  More interesting, though: I was able to initiate a Tram tour (also included in Steves’ travel guide) of greater Helsinki.  The route started at Kauppatori Station (1650) and then proceeded by Senate Square, Aleksanterinkatu, the Central Train Station and the Kamppi Shopping Center.  A bit later, I actually passed the restaurant where Inka had suggested I meet her and her mother for dinner.  Nearby, I caught glimpses of the Church in the Rock, the School of Economics and National Opera House.  Perhaps the most interesting thing I passed, though, was the venue for the 1952 Helsinki Olympic Games.  Part of me wanted to stop the tour to explore that area further but there just wasn't enough time.  Instead, I got off the Tram I'd been on (Tram 2) and transferred to Tram 3 (1720).  When I boarded the latter, the ticket machine somehow knew I still had a valid (80 minutes) ticket (my credit cart).  Next, we crossed over the railroad tracks from the airport and passed the Linnanmaki Amusement Park.  Shortly after that, we passed thru the Art Nouveau District - nearby, I saw the Kallio Church but the sun angle was bad for photos.  Our tram stopped again at a major shopping area near Hakaniemi Square.  The loop continued until we passed the University Metro Station and National Theater again (both located right near my hotel).  Since the route was shaped like a Figure 8, we passed Train station again.  I got a better view (and pictures) of the "Three Blacksmiths" (Hammering Men) statue (at Stockman) than I had back on May 10.  Beyond that, I passed through the Design District and by a large green space (Plague Park).  I noticed a large church (Art Deco) but had trouble with my camera before our tram's turn towards Embassy Row.  By then, the tram tour was nearly completed - with this in mind, I decided to get off the tram (1750).  Surprisingly, I immediately found myself standing right next to (tiny) St Henrik’s Cathedral, one of the only Catholic churches in Helsinki.  (This was the church I’d hoped to attend on Sunday but hadn’t been able to reach in time.)  Even more surprising, Mass was in progress!  I tentatively entered the back of the sanctuary and noticed that almost everyone looked like they were from East Asia (and the Priest was speaking in some kind of Asian language).  I thought about joining, since it looked like I'd arrived during the Homily.  However, my attention was diverted to a very little kid who was trying to escape the building.  I waved "hello" and then herded the youngster in the direction of his/her parents.  Since it was Ascension Day (apparently also a National Holiday in Finland), I was glad to participate in the celebration, even in a limited capacity.  Before long, though, I realized that I'd need to get moving again if I wanted to make it to the restaurant in time to meet Inka.  Instead, I walked around in Kaivapuisto (park).  I really loved the green space but, realizing how late it was, I started back to the north.  When I entered Tähtitorninvuori (park), I had to climb a big hill to get near the beautiful (and historic) buildings.  By 1800, I was overlooking the South Harbor from the highest point around.  Also in this area, I had an encounter with a rare (for me) bird species (Siskin).  From there, I walked all the way from the hill above the South Harbor, through the Design District, until I reached Tales (a wine bar connected to a famous restaurant called "Teller").  Inka had suggested we meet there at 1900 but, when I arrived at 1845, I found her and her mother (Kristen / Kirsten) already waiting for a table.  This was fortunate because the place was much more popular than any of us had realized.  When we were eventually seated, we immediately ordered wine (Syrah from France) and dinner (tapas = mushroom mix, brioche with cheese, ceviche like food and some seafood selections).  Our evening was dominated by AT Conversation - it was a Appalachian Trail Completer Reunion!  It was great to share some good memories of The Trail and catch up on life in the outdoors.  Inka startled me with tales (and pictures) of recent reindeer butchering (and explained that all the animals are owned by Finns).  Along the way, I learned that "Hey" means "hello" in Finnish.  This reminded me of all the times my mom had told me "Hay is for horses" when I was young and I had to chuckle (internally).  I also learned that "Kitos" was Finnish for "thank you".  Inka showed me photos of her home, which is located much farther north in Finland, and from hikes she'd done in Lappland.  We both concluded that the terrain looked just like New Hampshire.  An interesting note about the evening was that Kirsten was not able to follow much of the conversation because she didn't know a lot of English.  As a result, there was a lot of three way translating (with Inka in the middle).  Regardless, we got along famously.  When we were done eating (2020), I paid for the dinner - for some reason, this seemed to displease my friends but it seemed like the least I could do...  Before saying goodnight, we made tentative plans for the next day.  While returning to my hotel, I never had to look at a map (or my nearly dead cell phone) even once.  After arriving in my room (2040), I spent the rest of the night reading, completing Duolingo exercises and reorganizing bags.  Finally went to bed at 2345.  Very glad to have a Finnish friend to help me get the full experience in Helsinki!

Scandinavia Trip - Day 26

This morning, I woke up at 0625 in my room at the Panorama Hotel (Vilnius) and spent time reading, working puzzles and finishing Duolingo exercises.  After some research online, I made reservations (via LUX Express again) to travel from Vilnius to Tallinn by bus.  Sadly, there were no viable train options and airfare was much more expensive, with silly intermediate stops.  On the other hand, this bus trip cost less than each of the "one city" trips I’d taken before with the bus line.  However, there was no businesses class available.  As I packed up my bags, I took stock of the room quality.  Normally, I wouldn't care about the two twin bed setup (it was cheaper, after all) but I didn't like that there were  no outlets on the "bed side" of the room. There was a big fan (in lieu of AC, apparently) that kept me from getting hot (pro) but there was also an ominous warning about not drinking the water because it is “cleansed” (con).  Even though there was a breakfast buffet available, I decided not to have any food before departing the hotel (0820).  With rain falling intermittently (temps in the 40s), any elaborate plans I had to explore the Lithuanian countryside were curtailed.  Instead, I decided to focus on a few points of interest near the Old Town. My first stop was at The Bastion, which was located on a hill on the south end of the old city (along the wall).  Even with the misty conditions, I could still see several landmarks I’d visited the previous day.  A bit later, I realized I’d walked along the outer side of the Gate/Wall the day before.  Following dog-walkers on a "trail" through the woods, I made my way to the southwestern side of town.  I passed an "American School" and ended up in an area with cobblestones.  After wandering through some quiet Vilnius neighborhood on the fringes of the city, I reached the Rasos Cemetery, which was reportedly the oldest consecrated burial site in the area.  As such, it had many historic stones and buildings.  Some of the most impressive, though, were related to the Polish soldiers who died fighting for/over Vilnius during the chaotic early years of Twentieth Century. In a tribute to the uncertainties about “who should own Vilnius?”, the area changed hands about half a dozen times in two years and only became truly Lithuanian after the Nazis killed three Polish guards near the start of World War II.  If I read the signage correctly, the heart of the Polish national leader from this era is buried with the men.  Despite Soviet attempts to bulldoze over the graves (to build a highway), the Polish and Lithuanian governments jointly honor the soldiers.  This collaboration seems to require that many of the stones display a ribbon denoting the nationality of the person buried there.  Also of note in the cemetery were famous statesmen and some of the patriots executed in the 1860s after trying to promote freedom.  I’d already seen information about them (yesterday) at the summit of the Gedidimas Hill (where they’d been secretly buried originally).  Altogether, this was a cemetery for heroes...  Returning to the Old City by a similar route I'd followed earlier in the morning.  Along the way, I encountered buses connected to cables (for power) and passed the American School again.  Nearby, I found (at 0935) the Subacias Lookout, which allowed for a panoramic view of most of the city areas where I’d been walking yesterday.  In the same area, I saw lots of "wolf looking" dogs - they seem to be quite popular.  Meanwhile, I made my way back towards the southeastern side of the city. My final stop of the morning was at a covered shopping hall called the (Indoor) Hale Market, where I marveled at all the fresh meats, cheeses and fresh produce.  Feeling hungry by then, I bought empanadas (1000) and then started looking (in nearby buildings) for more food.  I soon called off the search, though, and ended up heading back to my hotel.  By the time I reached my room, my pedometer said I'd walked four miles in two hours.  Since the temperatures had risen inside the building, I spent time relaxing with the large (and hard to operate) window open.  At 1045, I left the hotel for the last time and walked towards the bus station.  Along the way, I broke a long-standing rule when I stopped at McDonald’s for lunch.  As I've normally seen when I'm traveling overseas, the place was very crowded.  Fortunately, I was able to use a kiosk to order and then ate a rather large lunch of familiar items.  After that, I walked the rest of the way to the queue area for my bus.  With the time I had left, I picked up snacks at a little shop inside the terminal (1120) and then walked to bus stall to wait under a roof.  It was still raining and temps had dropped back into the 40s so I actually donned my coat (first time in a while that I've needed it).  I was on the bus (Line 949) by 1145 and found lots of other English speakers, including two Mormon missionaries.  I discovered that there actually was a business class area but saw no one sitting there when we left the main bus station.  It was only then that I realized we'd be stopping in several other places along the "express" route.  Before leaving Vilnius, though, we stopped at the Panorama Mall (where my original hotel had been located) and lots more people got onboard (business class filling up).  Unfortunately, there were lots of sick passengers... When we got going again (1225), the bus driver read the welcome and instructions in several language and I was pleased to have an empty seat next to me.  While driving towards Riga, we avoided the town of  Panevezys by using the Bypass (unlike my previous visit).  We reached the Latvian border at 1455 and then got stuck behind (very slow) trucks.  Other buses passed ours whenever they thought they could (yikes).  The rain continued throughout the drive and I passed the time by listening to music and watching movies on the bus entertainment system.  We arrived in (drier) Riga at 1600 and parked at the Arrivals Area of the Main Bus Terminal soon afterwards. Almost everyone got off the bus and I watched the driver cleaning up the seats.  For a moment, I thought I might be alone during the drive to Tallinn.  We waited in that parking spot for about 20 minutes but then repositioned to the Departures Area.  Only then did I have any indication of the timeline for the rest of our drive - a sign showed a 1640 departure.  During this time, I had a chance to resolve a WiFi limitation the bus had (it wouldn't let me download apps).  My phone FB app had uninstalled for some reason but I was able to restore it with a completely different WiFi (shopping district) network.  Meanwhile, the bus filled up and someone sat next to me.  Even worse, though, the person in front of me reclined his seat and hit my kneecaps...  We departed Riga on time but then it took almost 30 minutes to get out of the city - we had to contend with traffic, construction and cobblestones.  Meanwhile, it started raining again.  At 1740, I ate my dinner (empanadas) and I tried to ignore the behavior of the other drivers - a Flixbus actually passed us on a narrow, two lane stretch of road (!!!).  But then our driver did the same thing and I realized there was some kind of order to the chaos.  The lady next to me started a phone conversation that seemed to go on and on but I resisted the urge to blurt out any comments.  We crossed the Estonia border at 1835 and then started following a big line of traffic.  At 1925, we stopped briefly (five minutes) at the Parnu Station but were soon heading north again.  During the next leg, I made reservations for the evening (hotel) and following day (ferry).  When she finally got off the phone, I ended up talking to the older lady next to me (Theodora or “Dora”).  It turned out that she was a radio and TV person from Estonia.  Strangely, though, she had many more stories about Vienna, Austria and "their love of funeral".  She also had very strong ideas about me visiting other sites in Estonia - she explained that she grew up on a tiny peninsula on big island on west of the Estonian mainland.  Much like other independence minded places I've visited, this town elected its own “King” and maintains a rather humorous relationship with the Estonian government.  The bus eventually stopped at a place that the map called "Vanu" (was it a store of some kind?) on the outskirts of Tallinn.  When we finally arrived at the main bus station of Tallinn (2115), it was still raining.  By then, Dora had suggested we share a cab (since she lived near the port and my hotel was in that direction).  However, she changed her mind when we retrieved our bags and, instead, suggested we walk "to stretch our legs after hours on the bus."  I agreed with this logic and, despite the sprinkles, we walked down some side streets and alleyways.  In the process, we cut off a corner of the tram route.  At one point, Dora suddenly told me she had reached her home and gestured to a nearby tram stop. I said goodbye to her there and then boarded Tram 2 towards the Ferry Port.  By the time I realized where I actually was, I had only gone through two stops.  Fortunately, I was able to get off the tram easily and then walked to my hotel, the Park Inn (by Radisson).  By 2145, I'd checked in and headed to my room.  I started to think about going out again but then concluded this was a bad idea - I was tired and damp.  Instead, I did some reading and Duolingo and then watched movies until bedtime (2330).  It’s been a nice week of visiting Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn but the time has come for me to make my way back towards the USA.  Very glad I made this trip to the Baltic States! 

Scandinavia Trip - Day 23

During the last 26ish hours, I’ve moved completely out of the comfortable, cruise-ship mindset and into the free-wheeling, nomadic life of a man with no planned itinerary.  Unlike the rest of this vacation, I didn’t make a single reservation for this whole coming week.  Other than the destinations (Baltic Republics) and luggage I was carrying, I planned to leave everything to chance.  So far, so good!  While still onboard "Cinderella", I stayed on Sweden time when I awoke.  As a result, it was 0615 by the time I opened my eyes and I did some reading, puzzles and Duolingo.  At 0645, I headed to the breakfast buffet venue so I could get the food I'd purchased before we departed Stockholm.  The venue, which had reserved eating times (mine was at 0700), already had a queue at the entrance when I arrived.  Fortunately, I still managed to be near the front of the line.  In the ensuing chaos, I was very glad that I'd already paid in advance because I go to walk inside immediately when the doors opened (Note: it was also cheaper to pre-pay).  Even so, I still had to navigate a madhouse to reach the different parts of the buffet.  All the lines procee3ded in the same direction towards the same "dead end" (where the drinks were located).  As a result, people were practically pushing each other just to move around.  I managed to find some familiar looking items for my meal and then moved as far away from the crowd as I could, looking for a quieter table near the bow of the ship.  Fortunately, I found one and sat down with a pretty view out the window.  My food tasted good and I was tempted to try to get more - unfortunately, more people had started arriving for the next (0730) seating.  So, I departed (0730) and went back to my cabin to rest.  I took care of some administrative items (e.g., made time change to Finland and repacked my bags).  At times, I was tempted to go out of my room to explore the decks, hoping to see some views of Helsinki.  However, I resisted the urge so I could avoid a scenario where I wasn't ready when the "docking" calls started.  In any case, the time to exit the ship came quickly.  At about 1010, I headed back to Deck 7 so I could get in line for the exit.  There were other folks with the same idea but I still managed to be near the front of the queue when the exit doors opened at 1020.  Along with a mass of humanity, we then had to walk through a long series of passageways and stairs/escalators.  Since I'd been in the Katajonokan Terminal of Helsinki before, I went to the "Departures" area immediately after leaving the "Arrivals" area.  I started checking the ferry schedule and storage options but immediately learned that there were no Viking Line departures to Tallinn until very late.  With a little bit of internet research, I figured out that there were some earlier ships (with Tallink) to Estonia that departed from the West Terminal.  Figuring this was a better option than staying put and waiting, I decided to try to reach the Radisson Blu Plaza hotel (where I'd stayed in April) to store one of my bags.  When I checked the taxi stand, however, I ended up in a competition among the drivers.  They initially started at €35 for the rather short ride but I whittled them down (by walking away from each offer until another one came along) to €20.  The ride to the Radisson Blu Plaza was pretty quick because the driver used the narrow (and scary) tram track routes.  We ultimately arrived at the hotel, unscathed, at 1055 and I was quickly able to drop one of my bags in their storage room.  During this window, I took advantage of the hotel's WiFi and made some room reservations for a return stay at their hotel when I returned to Helsinki again (May 14 & 15).  I also bought a ticket on a Tallink vessel (departing at 1330) to Tallinn.  Feeling good about how the rest of the trip framework was fleshing out, I gathered up my remaining items (one backpack and my daypack) and went back outside.  By then (1115), the temps were at 50 F and the sun was brightly shining overhead.  I walked to Tram station and got on Tram 7.  From the map I read at that stop, this tram was supposed to take me to the West Ferry Terminal.  However, this ended up being a mistake because of track construction and subsequent tram rerouting.  It was soon clear (from the route we'd taken and the long pause at a station that was not on the route I'd photographed) that something wasn't right.  When I asked the driver about the route, he told me that all of the routes in the area had been redirected due to track construction near the West Ferry Terminal.  He said I could change to another tram when we reached the  Central Railway Station.  I took a photo of a different map that showed the correct tram numbers and routes.  When Tram 7 started moving again we passed "Three Blacksmith's" statue (I didn't know what it was at the time).  Due to my tight schedule and the uncertainty of how much longer I'd need to get to the Terminal, I gave up the idea of going to Mass while in Helsinki.  After riding a full circuit on Tram 7, I then had to wait for about 10 more minutes before I could switch to Tram 9T (the correct one).  During this time, I had an interesting conversation with a fellow tourist who reminded me it was Mother’s Day.  He said he knew I was an American - guess my "disguises" aren't very effective... I was finally headed in the right direction by noon.  By that point, I had to start avoiding the use of my cell phone because the battery was getting very low.  When I arrived at the West Terminal (1220), I went inside to rest until it was time to board my ferry (1255).  While waiting, I met some folks from the Hudson Valley.  Once I finally got onboard the Tallink “Megastar”, I bought some lunch and a local (Estonian) beer from a little market I found.  Boarding closed at 1310 and the ship started moving at 1315 (15 minutes early).  During our transit, I was able to use the ship's Internet and found a charging port that would work for as long as I needed it.  After eating (late) lunch (1500), I went exploring around the ship.  We docked in Tallinn at 1525 - while waiting to get off the ferry, I went online and bought a business class bus ticket to Riga.  I quickly got off the ship after that and was waiting at the bus slot by 1540.  The weather in Estonia was overcast but the clouds seemed high enough that rain was unlikely.  The LUX Express Bus (Line 14) arrived shortly after I did and I met the nice bus driver.  Since I was the only person trying to board the bus at the Ferry Terminal, I had my choice of seats in Business Class.  At 1600, we drove to the Tallinn Bus Station and picked up many other passengers that were waiting there (1615).  Even after that, the Business Class was still empty.  We left downtown at 1625 and began driving across the countryside of central Estonia.  The route took us on back roads, through construction, into huge farm fields and under a "big sky."  I spent time watching movies but also enjoyed looking out the window.  At 1810, we stopped in the town of Parnu but were on our way again within five minutes.  I was able to follow our progress on a moving map on the multimedia display and, after a few hours driving across the pretty countryside of Estonia, we crossed the border into  Latvia (1905).  At around that time, I noticed two kinds of stork in estuaries to the west.  Almost immediately after we got into the new country, the road dramatically turned into a straight and flat surface - it was almost like a train track!  I started to get even better views of the Baltic Sea, including some beautiful scenes with the sun setting over the water.  Recently, I received the results of a MtDNA test (it traces the genetic origins of my maternal line since this type of DNA is only passed down by the mother).  From our family history, I knew my mom had roots in Scandinavia.  The results, though, pointed at the eastern side of the Baltic Sea and specifically at Lithuania and Latvia.  You can understand, then, how interesting it was for me to think about how, like I did in Northern Ireland, I was bringing my family’s genes back to their ancestral home...  There was coffee, tea and hot chocolate available for the passengers on the bus - it took a bit of trial and error to manage the process but I eventually got myself a cup.  While operating the bathroom nearby, I was struck (not for the first time) on how much we as humans take for granted while trying to do simple, daily tasks.  The impact of Human Factors (e.g., side of the road for cars to drive on, directions of doors opening, buttonology on appliances, etc.) on our lives is usually invisible until we enter a new area of the planet.  I'm constantly amazed at the kinds of little things that are more difficult because I've taken their counterparts at home for granted for most of my life...  The bus made good progress and we arrived in the vicinity of Riga (capital of Latvia) by 2030.  After entering an area of cobblestoned streets, I decided that I was ready to make a reservation at a hotel.  The bus driver had mentioned that there were a few stops to choose from but I wasn't exactly sure where they each were.  So, it was kind of a surprise when we reached the first opportunity to get off - fortunately, I already had a nearby hotel queued up in my Booking.com app.  The stop along the "Esplanade" in Riga was close to the Riga Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, a beautiful church with golden domes on top.  After grabbing my bag (2045), I walked to the hotel, the Radisson Old Town, I'd reserved at the last moment.  When I entered the lobby (2055), I realized I'd hit the jackpot - not only did I end up in a comfy room overlooking a plaza and park in Riga’s Old Town, but I met a wonderful young (25ish) young hotel clerk who had a genuine love of his city.  With room key in hand, I spent 15 minutes with Vidims - he made markings on a city map that indicated his favorite examples of architecture, a muffin shop, interesting churches and tour boat service.  He also told me where to go for some good local beer and described two excursions away from Riga that I “should not miss.”  By the time I went to my room, I felt like the passionate love that Vidims had showed for his hometown deserved an equally passionate tourist - I resolved to visit everything he’d recommended! After my gear was stashed in my room (2145), I departed the hotel (on foot) to visit two bars Vidims had recommended. At the first one, the Kwak Inn (a sort of Belgian Beer Hall), I ordered two beers I’d been told about - they were good!  The walls of the bar were covered with Charlie Chaplin movies.  During the time I was there, I struck up a conversation with the (young lady) bartender and got a feel for life in Riga.  Other customers came and went but, over the course of the evening, I heard some very personal perspectives of what it was like to live in the Baltic Republics.  The threat of Russia, which in the minds of all the people I’ve met, has never been far enough away - it is extremely palpable.  And I might never have known that fact if I hadn’t left Finland...  Hoping to try one of the Latvian food specialties Vidims had mentioned, I ordered some black garlic bread (with cheese sauce) from the nice bartender.  The beers I tried went well with this selection.  At 2320, I decided to try to visit the other bar that had been recommended, Two More Beers, but found that it had closed already.  I made my way back to my and found Vadims in the lobby when I returned.  I told him about my experiences and we ended up talking about the transportation I'd used to reach Riga.  It sounds like I picked the better cruise lines (Viking & Tallink) and bus line (LUX Express) - I'm glad to know this.  After wrapping up our conversation, I returned to my room and surfed the Internet for a little while, finally going to bed at 0100.  As I drifted off to sleep, I considered how almost every decision I've made on this "backpacking trip" so far (including the choice of ferry to start things last night) was made on the fly within minutes of the next decision.  And, while there are definitely faster ways to travel between cities over here, I’ve enjoyed watching the interesting scenery go by and interacting with the locals (bonus: there has been almost no one from the Western Hemisphere nearby).  I’ve been trying is to avoid using my phone for anything other than reservations (and this kind of post) but it’s been hard with everything turning digital in this part of the world.  Before this week started, I might have bet against myself with no plans in advance - it feels good to have made it this far!  I’ve only got about a third of the stuff I'd brought for the cruise in my backpack right now so we’ll see how things go from here...

Scandinavia Trip - Day 20

Viking "Neptune" - Day 13!  After our extended (and somewhat restful) Baltic Sea transit, I was excited to resume excursions ashore today.  I’ve never visited one of the Baltic Republics so I was really looking forward to my planned tour of the capital of Estonia.  This morning, I was awake at 0615 and spent some time reading, doing puzzles and completing Duolingo exercises.  The ship docked in Tallinn at 0700 and I went to breakfast at the World Cafe (0745).  Unlike previous days, I made a point of eating alone (still enjoying my solitude from the "At Sea Day").  I finished eating at 0810 and returned to my cabin to get my belongings.  After that, I departed "Neptune" (0820) and started walking down the pier so I could find the waiting tour bus.  As I passed the bow of the ship, I became quite interested in the "torpedo bow" I noticed (visible just under the water).  The weather was pleasant again, with temps in the low 40s and the sky brightly sunny.  From the moment I was walking on land, I recorded many birds.  By 0830, I'd joined my excursion, “Tallinn Old Town Walk”.  Our guide was named “Anu” and she helped us get settled on the large motor coach we needed in order to reach the beginning of our walking route.  After departing the Port area, we started seeing famous landmarks and architecture.  Examples included St. Olaf’s, City Walls and “Fat Margaret”, one of the 26ish city towers on the Tallinn skyline.  There are names for each one.  We drove south until we reached a high bluff of the Upper Town.  Getting off of the bus, we began to learn more about the area.  We passed the "1991 boulder", got up close to the City Walls, “Tall Herman” (tower), a pink building that Anu told us was the House of Parliament.  Across the street, we visited Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox Church and I got to listen to the service, being chanted in Russian.  At around this time, our guide expressed significant (understandable) anti-Russian sentiment.  Continuing on, we passed by the country's oldest school and, just beyond that, the oldest church (Lutheran) in Estonia (Puha Neitsi Maarja or Piiskoplik Toomkurik).  There were several foreign embassies in this zone.  We soon arrived at a pretty park (Kohtuotsa viewing platform) with a spectacular viewpoint of the city.  Nearby, we found a large tourist / souvenir shop and Anu gave everyone some time (15 minutes) for shopping.  Since I wasn't interested in this kind of thing, I went next door to Vaateplatvormi Kohvik Viewpoint Cafe and asked if I could sample some of the Vana Tallinn liqueur.  When it was delivered to me, I learned how to “toast” in Estonian from the nice bartender (I was the only customer).  After rejoining my tour group, we we backtracked to Russian church, following a long section of the City Wall.  We got glimpses of the “Virgin Tower” and “Peak into the Kitchen Tower” as we continued walking down to the Lower Town via the Long Leg and Short Leg routes.  Highlights around this area included the St. Nicholas Church, Beermaker Street, Town Hall Square (office of the Burgermeister), Bakery Street, Pikk Street, Great Guild House (built by the Hanseatic League), Holy Ghost Church, Pharmacy Street, Katrine’s Passage, a Dominican Convent and Hansa Haus.  Whew!  After so much time together, Anu gave us another 20 minute break and I used it to walk to a nearby Visitor Information Center.  From the helpful ladies there, I got help with transportation systems in the Baltic Republics.  I was advised not to use the train but, instead, use the LUX Express buses.  I also got some maps and learned more about the tram system in Tallinn.  Moving on, I started exploring some of the side streets.  The meet up time with our group prevented me from truly exploring - I made it back to the gathering spot in time (1100) with ideas of getting farther away after the tour ended.  We next walked together down Viru Street and through the Gate on the eastern end of the Old City.  In that area, we saw houses built up against the City Walls (cheaper because only three walks required) and passed through a large flower market.  By 1120, we'd mostly reached the end of our guided tour and Anu started talking about rejoining the bus.  I asked her if I could depart from there and she agreed.  After walking away from the Shuttle Bus Stop (on Mere pst), I entered Kanuti Garden, a sprawling green area with shrubbery mazes.  There was a whole class of kids, clad in yellow smocks, there who were running around the park on pathways (sort of a gym class or recess?).  I followed the walls towards the north and was able to get inside the Old Town when I arrived at "Fat Margaret" (nice gate).  Referencing my Rick Steve's guidebook, I located the "Three Sisters" buildings and then explored the interior walls of the city and several more of the tall towers.  I got up close (and in the entryway) of St. Olaf’s.  In this area, I encountered VERY fancy cars (Lamborghinis, Porches, Ferraris, etc.) but heard no English and saw no other tourists.  One of the highlights of this walk was finding the Nun’s Tower (and gate) and watching young people playing and studying in the courtyards of nearby schools.  At one point, I found the Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord (Eastern Orthodox) - it was closed but the building had a very distinctive architecture.  I met another man in that area who also seemed to appreciate what we were seeing.  Feeling like I'd seen most of the city landmarks of interest by that point, I decided to try to learn more about the Estonian transportation system.  My first stop in this research was at the Central Train Station.  It was hard to get information and, like the people working at the Visitor Information Center had told me, the train seemed overly complicated and uncertain.  I wanted to find more information about the bus and tram systems so started looking around nearby.  Suddenly, I ended up inside a HUGE indoor marketplace (Balti Jamma Turg).  For a little while, I strolled through the aisles and marveled at all the fresh produce, meats and other items.  Heading back outside after feeling like I'd really seen a slice of Estonia, I found a large "corral" of buses - I was able to get a good feel for the local city routes there.  However, I wanted to know about the "international' routes and knew I needed to reach the Central Bus Station for that.  There was also the matter of the Ferry Transit system - I needed to understand that better. In an attempt to kill two birds with one stone, I walked through the Fortress area and walked down Rannamae tee (towards the pier where Viking "Neptune" was docked).  Along the way, I found the ruins of a bunker and then marveled at the "Broken Line" monument to the victims of a huge Ferry accident.  I continued walking towards the northeast until I found the Ferry Terminal.  Right in front, I noticed a Tram Stop and tried to figure out the maps - it was unclear whether I needed to travel Southbound (Alo Tlt, orange) tram towards Suur-Paala to reach the bus station.  Also, I was unsure whether the return tram was to Kopli or Tallinn Vaike.  In the end, I did a test run (used credit card in front of the tram cars) and road the Vanasadam to Bussijaam (Tram 2) at 1305.  I figured I could just get off and walk back if I made a mistake.  On the way, I learned that I could charge my phone with a handy USB port in my seat.  At 1320, I realized I had arrived at the Bus Station and got off the tram.  After a short walk, I was able to find documents and some signage that indicated that a Flixbus line (#1205) departed at 1400 (Thursdays only?) from Platform 11 enroute to Riga and Vilnius.  We'll see if that is the best option...  I located some bag lockers and pay bathrooms.  For a little while, I waited for the bus in attempt to talk to a driver but gave up when I confirmed (online) that the 1400 departure was every day.  There were lots of busses, actually...  After walking back to the tram stop, I boarded a northbound one (1350) and rode back to the Port.  Off again at 1402, I checked out Ferry Terminal A.  There were some departures to Helsinki that departed from there but I learned there was another ferry terminal (for the Tallink line) nearby. After a short walk across a pretty bridge (over a canal), I arrived at Terminal D and did some exploring inside.  At least I know where to go, depending on the routes and ferry lines I want to use...  Before departing, I noted the bus stalls for Flixbus and LUX Express - more good intel.  Finally feeling ready to navigate through the start of my trip to the Baltic Republics next week, I walked to the Cruise Ship Port.  There was a long Promenade there that allowed me to walk the entire length of the pier and get some pretty views of the harbor, city and shoreline.  On the downside, the route ended up being a dead end and I had to walk all the way back to beginning of the ramp and find a place for port access.  This was also interesting, since there was no guard at first - only after I walked through the gate did he appear...  After nearly eight miles of walking, I arrived at "Neptune" (1555).  With my tour of Tallinn complete, I boarded the ship and went to the Pool grill so I could get some late lunch.  I was done eating at 1625 and headed back to my room, where I completed a survey for my Tallinn excursion.  As a child, one of my earliest international geography “puzzles” involved a comparison between maps of Europe in 1918 and 1945.  I couldn’t figure out how or why countries would just “disappear” on a map.  At the time, I thought “why isn’t someone doing something about this?”  Obviously, our leaders didn’t want a World War III over Estonia and the nearby countries but it’s irked me for years how freedom (or lack thereof) can be dictated by bullying neighbors.  Today, I found that independence from Russia suits the Estonians - the cars, clothing and standard of living seemed to be much higher than what I saw in other “Eastern Bloc” countries near the Danube.  It was good to see that Freedom is so widely appreciated in the Baltic Republics!  Back to the present: "Neptune" departed Tallinn at about 1700 and I spent more time in my cabin reading.  On my TV, I watched part of the “Abba” tribute but then had to get ready so I could go to another one of the "Fine Dining Venue" meals I'd reserved at the beginning of the cruise.  Upon arrival at Manfredi’s at 1900, I ordered from the preset menu: Insalata Caprese, Minestrone alla Genovese, Ravioli Freschi alla Caprese e Pesto al Basilico, Parmesana di Pollo.  During my dinner, the chef came out to visit and we determined we’d both been on Viking “Venus” during my cruise last Fall.  As I was getting ready to order my dessert, Rich & Barb stopped me and asked that I join them.  The staff was very nice to let me take my Caramelo to the other table and I stayed with my friends until they'd had their meal tool.  At 2100, we all went to the Farewell Reception in the Star Theater.  All the passengers toasted the crew and most of the festivities were over by the time I departed for my room (2130).  For the rest of the evening, I watched Stockholm Port Talk, read and watched movies.  I finally went to bed at 2300 (time change was broadcast by the ship's crew).  Very glad to have had so much time to prepare for my Backpacking Trip through Eastern Europe next week!

Scandinavia Trip - Day 19

Viking "Neptune" - Day 12!  For the first and only time on this cruise, we spent more than 24 hours away from any port - a genuine "At Sea Day" (although we sighted the islands of Estonia just before sunset).  I took advantage of the time to get extra rest and relaxation.  With the time change that the ship required overnight, I woke up at the "new" 0600.  I spent some time reading, working on puzzles and doing Duolingo exercises.  Along the way, I skipped breakfast.  At 0845, I got ready (swimsuit, bathrobe and slippers) and went to the "Neptune" Spa.  This was my first time taking advantage of their services and (on the first day of the cruise) I'd made a 0900 reservation for something called the "Nordic Restart", which included 110 minutes of treatment.  From the description, I wondered what it would be like to get a full body scrub (cranberry seeds), deep massage and scalp ritual.  When I arrived, I only had to wait about five minutes before my masseuse, Chichi, arrived to take me into the back.  For nearly two hours, I was in heaven!  The body scrub made my skin feel smoother than I can ever remember (sort of like the softness of a baby's skin) and the excellent massage worked some tight muscles in my shoulders and neck.  The scalp massage was interesting - it really increased my level of relaxation.  Chichi was wonderful!  The overall experience was one of the best I've had on optional add-ons for a Viking Cruise and I'm hopeful I'll get to try another, similar such session in the future...  Afterwards, I spent 15 minutes in the sauna.  When I (reluctantly) returned to my room (1115), I did a load of laundry while reading some more of the book I borrowed from the ship's library.  Once the clothes were clean (and/or drying in my shower), I got dressed to go out and enjoy my day.  On my way to lunch, I took a short detour on to the Promenade Deck and found the weather to be quite pleasant (sunny & 40s).  I started out my mid-day meal at the World Cafe (1225) but, just after I selected a table outside, Larry & Maggie asked me to come sit with them in the Pool Grill.  One of the items during this lunch was a delicious tempura artichoke.  After finishing (1345), I returned to my room and resumed reading.  Outside, I could see the placid waters of the Baltic Sea passing by and it made me feel a bit sleepy.  From 1545 to 1715, I took an actual (and restful) nap.  Somehow, I managed to resume reading after that and never lapsed into more sleep...  I capped off my day with another fine dinner at the Chef's Table (1900).  I requested to sit in Yong's area again and was able to visit with him again.  Since the restaurant menu apparently changes every three days, I was able to select options from something they called the "California Menu".  Over the five courses, I tried: an amuse bouche of sweet potato chip, sour cream & guava; a first course of crab cake on a bed of guacamole; a granita of Moscow Mule in ice form; a main course of seared halibut; a dessert of Ojai mandarin parfait); and special wine pairings for each dish.  I was very full and satisfied after all of this pampering but lingered in the restaurant even after I was finished - Yong brought me a pleasant pot of peppermint tea,  I finally wrapped up my dinner at 2000 and went walking on the deck.  It was still cooler (low 40s) but I enjoyed that.  In the distance, I could see the coastline of Estonia (islands).  For the first time in many days, I had no bird sightings at all (my eBird streak ended).  Once I reached two miles of walking (5K steps) for the day, I headed back to my room (2030) and watched the Port Talk for Tallinn.  Beyond that, I watched movies until bedtime (2345).  What a day - I'm feeling quite relaxed and ready for another port call!