Washington, DC (USA)

[work (Government Shutdown) - walked to Navy Yard - met Sean E for happy hour at Buffalo Wild Wings (he had rewards points and got lots of free appetizers) - stayed from 1530 to 1730 - Metro back to L'Enfant and (train swap) home]

Winter Break Trip - Day 5

[I woke Mollie up at 0600 and packed up the car - it was very cold and it took a while for the car to warm up - Katie had made us some lunch and organized our presents (what a haul!) so we had a lot to get in the car (as a result, Mollie couldn’t sleep in the back seat and she was sad) - we were on the road by 0630 and drove via MA-3, I-93 and I-95 until we were almost in Connecticut - Mollie slept for most of the way and we ate breakfast (snacks) while driving - I’d thought we might try to stop at National Parks for passport stamps) on the way but Mollie said she wanted to get home (“to snuggle in my bed”) - after getting gas in West Greenwich, RI (0745), we continued on I-95 into New Jersey (via the George Washington Bridge in NYC) - Mollie continued to sleep and only woke up as we switched to I-287 - we ate lunch (ham sandwiches, chips, fruit) after we got gas again (1100) in Bloomsbury (NJ) - we then used I-78 to go west into Pennsylvania - at that point, the traffic began to get horrendous - even though it was essentially a holiday, there were large buildups in the typical places I’ve seen traffic on regular work days - as a result, we had to detour around near Harrisburg (PA-443 to US-22, surface streets to cross Susquehanna River and reach US-15) and wait in big slow-down areas (I-270, I-495) all the way home - still, we were at my apartment by 1530 and immediately unpacked - Mollie was already missing her cousins by the time we ate dinner...]

Winter Break Trip - Day 4

[Katie had made Christmas morning very special by filling up Mollie and my stockings with goodies (many of which I had brought with me) - the whole atmosphere was extremely “family oriented” and I was glad to be able to show Mollie what that was like - she and her cousins were up at around 0800 and we opened presents in the living room with my sister's family until around 0930 - Katie's family was SO generous and knew exactly the kinds of things that Mollie loved - after that, we ate a huge breakfast ("overnight French Toast", eggs, bacon) - Mollie and I helped with the dishes but Katie made it difficult for us to contribute in many other ways while we were staying at her house - I went for a walk in the cold, brisk air - then we got ready for our trip to Cape Cod - Mollie and I left at around 1145 (we took Ella with us) and arrived at my father’s house in Sandwich at 1230, just as the Christmas meal was going to begin - Gerard, Judy (Beth’s sister) and Carolyn were already there and the rest of Katie's family (including Aria and Dan) arrived a little later - Beth had made a huge effort to set up a seating chart where (apparently, she thought) no one could disagree - the end result, however, was that Mollie ended up sitting at the adult table (she didn’t like this but I convinced her to “let it go”) - the dinner (turkey, ham, mashed potatoes, green bean casserole, cinnamon swirl rolls, corn, stuffing, gravy) came from Market Basket and was delicious - Dad and Beth had put a moratorium on gift-giving but there were several floating around (we gave presents to Dad/Beth, Gerard and Carolyn, while other family members exchanged presents) - after the meal, we watched slide shows (“Greatest Hits” and “1977 Summer Vacation”) and everyone laughed a lot - the fun continued with Katie showing everyone the App she had that turned photos into versions of people’s faces as the opposite gender or a different age or hairstyle - we were done with the event by 1600 and left when Gerard was ready - we followed him to his house in Plymouth and figured out how to load up my car with a fragile (100+ year old) set of four chairs that he wanted me to have; we also talked for a long time - Ella started texting Mollie, asking where she was, by 1730 so we headed back to Hanover - when we arrived, we found Uncle John watching a series of Christmas movies (“The Grinch”, “Jingle All the Way” and “National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation”) - of course we joined him - later, I went for another walk and returned home quickly - Katie made dinner (homemade pizza) and we talked for several hours - Mollie really was getting sad about leaving her cousins and didn’t want to go to bed - we said goodbye to everyone because they planned to sleep late the next morning - I excused myself (for packing and sleeping) by 2200 but Mollie stayed up a bit longer]

Winter Break Trip - Day 3

[Mollie and I got up early (0730) and ate breakfast (leftovers) - we drove to Plymouth and went shopping for supplies and gifts - after about an hour, we continued our drive to Cape Cod and drove to Brewster, stopping to visit some more of my relatives (Dick and Judy) at 1015 - Mollie really enjoyed meeting them but especially liked their Australian Shepherd, “Finbar” - we had tea and Dunkin Donuts with them and departed at 1145 - we visited my mother’s gravestone and also stopped at the Brewster Store (1215), where I got Mollie a bag of penny candy - we then drove south through Brewster and Harwich, where I pointed out places important to my family - we ate a very light lunch (snacks in the car)- our drive later continued along MA-28 through Dennis and Yarmouth and I got to show Mollie my old schools and places where my family had lived, shopped and played - as we reached Barnstable and the edge of Hyannis (1330), we started getting “where are you?” texts and calls from Johnny - we therefore decided to head back to Hanover - there were snow flurries (Mollie liked that) and holiday traffic (we didn’t like that) - we cleaned ourselves up after we arrived at Katie’s (1415) and then drove to the North River Community Church (Katie's home church), for a Christmas Eve service - it was nice (Katie and Ella were singing) - after the service was over (1600), we got a family portrait and hot chocolate - Mollie and I then drove to a nearby Christmas Tree Shoppes store (Pembroke) to get some more supplies - Mollie really liked our almost "traditional pilgrimage" to the store) - by 1700, we were on our way to John’s brother’s (Brian’s) house for a Christmas Eve party - there, the kids changed into pajamas and watched movies while the parents hung out in another room - Mollie eventually got bored and spent almost half the evening with me - we got to see Aria and her boyfriend (Dan) - we also ate dinner (pot luck) and later opened gag gifts - at 2000, I took Mollie and Ella back to Katie’s - on the way, we looked for a gas station (something very difficult on Christmas Eve) and eventually found one in Norwell (2050) - back at Katie's house, Ella and Mollie frosted sugar cookies and I went for a walk (to get my steps) - the rest of the family arrived home by 2215 and Katie had the kids open a gift before going to bed (2300)]

Winter Break Trip - Day 2

[everyone slept in until almost 1000 - we ate a late breakfast (bagels, toast, English muffins, cereal) - at around 1045, Katie drove us from her house to Salem, hoping for a scenario where the NPS Passport Stamp could be obtained at a gift shop (sometimes possible) for the Maritime NHS - one of the Visitors Centers was closed but we walked around in the old district and located one of the first houses built in the town (Narbonne House, bui;t in 1675), a lighthouse and several other exhibits that described the history of the seaport - we also stopped at Waite & Peirce (a gift shop), which turned out to be another Visitors Center, and Mollie got the stamp she craved and some souvenirs (1220) - our next stop was Brodie's Seaport Café, where we ate a delicious lunch and Katie watched her beloved Patriots playing the Buffalo Bills (done at 1320) - we finished eating at around 1345 and then went to the Salem Witch Museum (relatively unchanged since the 1970s), walked around on the Old Common and, later, the Old Burial Point - it was cold and windy but the sun was shining brightly - everyone seemed happy to be outdoors and Mollie had fun with her cousins - after we were done, Katie drove us home by 1615 and went to church with John - meanwhile, I took Mollie, Johnny and Ella to visit one of our relatives - we got gas in Hanover (1730) and drove to Gerard's house in Plymouth (1800) - we ate dinner (pizza) there and had a nice visit with him - at around 2030, we drove back to Hanover and watched a movie (“Elf”) - Mollie and Ella decided to make sugar cookies and Katie also helped them make her special peanut butter with Hershey Kiss cookies - I went to bed at 2230 but Mollie stayed up for another hour]

Winter Break Trip - Day 1

[we got up at around 0615 and finished packing - we ate breakfast (ClifBar) and got on the road by 0715 - gas fillup in Alexandria (0725) - we used I-495, I-95, I-695, I-83 and I-81 to head north - Mollie slept for almost four hours in the back seat of my little car (she said she loved "the coziness") - parts of the Government shut down, so we weren't able to enjoy a major part of our Daddy-Daughter vacations on the way to New England (visiting National Parks and getting NPS Passport Stamps) - Mollie was disappointed and it wasn't looking good for any park visits for the rest of the week - we stopped at a rest area on I-80 to assess our options and decided to head north (back roads) to I-84 - gas fillup in Montague, NJ (1225) - we ate lunch (snacks) in the car - we also played a game I called “Favorites of 2018” and talked about Spring Break and Summer Vacation plans - we detoured a few times off the Interstate in New York and Connecticut (for traffic) and eventually (north of Hartford) switched to I-384 and US-6 to get to Providence - after that, we drove on I-295, I-95 had I-93 to get to Braintree and MA-3 - we arrived at Katie's house at about 1630 - Uncle John made dinner (chicken parmigiana, salad) - after eating, I went for a walk - when I returned, we headed over to Ella’s school to watch her play basketball - we walked to and from the game (full moon, brisk) - back at the house, we enjoyed the company of family for several more hours before bed (2330)]

Washington, DC (USA)

[work - Brenna met me at L'Enfant (1630) - we walked (in the rain) to Jefferson Academy - volunteered for an hour - walked to Mi Vida at around 1800 - dinner - took SW Shuttle and Metro back to Huntington - drove home (arrived around 2045)]

Alexandria, VA (USA)

[work - lunch with Tyler at L'Enfant food court - work - took Metro to King Street and met Stephanie, John, Kelly and Joe R. at Theismans for happy hour - stayed until around 2030 - then Metro home]

Washington, DC (USA)

[I texted Brenna a few times to coordinate our meet up (giving her times and locations so we’d be able to see animals and beat the crowds) - at 1500, when she was supposed to leave home, I learned that she could not find her Metro card - after several attempts to find an extra SmarTrip failed, I left work and took the Metro back to Huntington, where I met her and gave her my extra card - we then got on Metro together and took it to Woodley Park Station - we walked to the National Zoo, arriving at around 1645 - for over an hour and a half, we walked around the park, drinking hot chocolate, enjoying the Christmas Lights, seeing the Lions, and talking - Zoo Lights much different (no gingerbread houses, NO animal displays open, just lights) - afterwards, we walked back to the Metro Station and took the train to Gallery Place, where we had dinner (bread with mango butter, plantains with guacamole, Cuban sandwiches, salad) at Cuba Libre - it was a great meal and the manager came by at the end to talk to us - he offered to throw a big party for Brenna and Erin when they turned 21 (she liked that idea) - at about 2030, we took the Metro back to Huntington and I told Brenna to keep the SmarTrip card until Thursday - overall, the evening seemed like a big success - after we both left the garage, Brenna called to tell me that the Chrysler driver’s side window had fallen off the track into the door - I met up with her again at Rose Hill shopping center and determined I could not fix the problem - Brenna said she would take the car to K&B (Tom, her mother’s mechanic) in the morning]

Woodbridge, VA (USA)

[telework - drove to Woodbridge to get Explorer windshield repaired (after it was shattered the previous day) - home by 1500]

Konnarock, VA (USA)

Woke up very early, excited to see whether I'd chosen wisely about staying in the area. It had rained all night but the pre-dawn mist was all the moisture that remained. Still, the forecast called for rain all day so I didn't want to waste any time getting started. Larry insisted on another hearty breakfast (pancakes, sausage, eggs) and gave me a hand-made AT necklace! He also invited me to return for another stay at his hostel if I was ever in the area. Full of good food, I departed Damascus. Driving on US-58 (east) was slow going - it was very foggy and dark - as I could barely see the road. I carefully made my way to the gravel road (VA-601) near Konnarock where the AT trailhead was and, when I got out of the car, was met with chilly mountain air. As I've done for over a month now, I left behind some of my normal "overnight supplies" and, instead, brought more clothing layers. Today I wore my rain poncho too, since the cloud-like environment was constantly wet. The section I planned to hike was located between US-58 and the access road on top of Whitetop Mountain and I started NOBO from my car (0715) with the intention of swapping out gear when I backtracked to the "highway." On the way up the mountain (constant climb), it wasn't too cold or wet and encountered several deer. Near the top of the ridge, however, I found a thin layer of snow (almost ice pellets) and, after the trail made a huge switchback, I found some wind and much deeper snow. At first, I enjoyed the quiet winter solitude and took pictures happily. I'd brought a winter coat but it was safely in my backpack. I was wearing waterproof gloves and my Santa Fe Stetson so didn't feel cold. However, the conditions got worse as I continued on the plateau - especially as I passed through two different treeless balds. The wind was icy and biting and, while there was no precipitation, the snow blew sideways and massed in deeper drifts. I got fooled by a road that I crossed - I'd expected to see a one where I turned around previously and wishfully thought I'd found it. However, I figured out (with the lack of deja vu tingles and some rare GPS signal in the area) that I was still almost a mile from actual USFS-89 (Whitetop Mountain Road). I learned later that my mileage was off and that there was at least 0.5 to 1.0 more hiking for me than I'd expected. Trudged slowly onward through the snow, wind and fog, hoping to see evidence of the turnaround point... Instead, I was startled to see another hiker! He was extremely bundled up and must have thought I was the crazy one (long sleeved shirt, rain poncho, cowboy hat...) and he may have been correct! I learned that I was only about 100 yards from the road and that he was one of four section hikers that were headed SOBO. A second (lady) passed me but I never saw the other two. By the time I started my backtrack, I could barely hold my phone to take photos it was so miserable and cold. But, as usually happens, my hike back to the car goes quicker because I know what's coming. I caught up to the two section hikers more than once (we leapfrogged) as we tried to get back to the treeline and windless side of the mountain. Eventually, we were all in a rhythm and hiked down together (with me in the lead). It was great to get out of the snow but then it started raining... Made good (drenched) time with "Ranger Rick" (?) and "Joda" (she climbed Kilimanjaro in the Spring) as we made our way (back) to VA-601. Talked about flying, favorite section hikes and logistics to finish the AT. They stopped at the trailhead (to wait for their friends) but I kept going (never did swap out gear...). It was still raining, so the section between my car and US-58 was essentially a series of mud-rivers, some across wide open pastures and some in the "forest" of rhododendrons. "Enjoyed" a bit of climbing/descending too. Fortunately, it wasn't as far of a distance as I'd thought - I had already turned around and was halfway back to my car before I encountered all four of the section hikers (never really talked to the last two, though). Was happy to see the car again as I slip slid my way across the open fields at the end of my day. Done (after nearly 10 miles) by 1130. By then, the rain had stopped and I was able to change out of my muddy/drenched clothes. Last time I have to drive into the remote Mount Rogers NRA zone again - less then 10 miles left of AT in Virginia! Decided to drive home via VA-603, VA-16 and I-81 - crossing fingers for a speedy and safe drive home. Got gas in Daleville at around 1430 and Was relatively fortunate, as far as traffic was concerned. Unfortunately, I did get the passenger side of my windshield bashed by debris from an 18-wheeler near Gainesville (ouch!). Made it home, though - whew... Great hiking weekend! AT Today = 3.90 miles / G.T. AT = 1281.52 miles

Damascus, VA (USA)

Woke up to the smell of Larry’s cooking (eggs, hash browns, pork chops and biscuits) - mmmm. He asked me to go over to Cowboys "to buy three to four eggs" (they ended up giving me a dozen for their friend). I also explored Damascus for a short time, looking for lunch to-go. Eventually got one at Mojo's Trailside Cafe (0715). Back at the Hostel, I swapped some more stories with the Thru hikers before my shuttle arrived (0800). I’ve not normally hired a driver like that but I was motivated by the great weather, the chance to avoid driving around in the mountains and the length of the section. Larry (hostel owner) and Larry (shuttle driver) chatted while we drove the roughly 12 miles on curvy US-58 to the trailhead (Creek Junction on VA-728). Meanwhile, I enjoyed the company of the former Larry’s dog, Sally... By 0830, I was climbing the steep bluff from the parking lot up to the Creeper Trail (Luther Hassinger Bridge). I headed SOBO and enjoyed a flat section for a little over a mile. After that, I climbed the first (of two) ridges. It was overcast and cool at first and I felt good about my energy as I trudged through mud and some leftover snow. I was layered up and prepared (rain poncho) but the temps climbed to the lower 50s as the sun came out (Yaay!). It did rain for a very short time but the tree cover kept me from getting wet. I could hear the sound of the water running in several deep creeks. Sometimes, I spotted the Creeper Trail far below. Other times, I heard cars on US-58. Highlight, though, was the clear sound of an eagle screeching overhead. Didn’t see any wildlife and didn’t expect to see any people, either, but encountered three at once while I was on the first ridge. One was a SOBO trail runner and the other two were college kids, out for a 100 mile section hike (NOBO). I learned that one of them had Thru hiked over the Spring and Summer but was unable to finish. He’d convinced his friend to tag along as he tried to fill in the gaps he’d missed. After those guys, I only saw one more person - a day Hiker within 100 yards of the Damascus Town Line. So was basically alone all day - but that’s ok! Found a really cold hollow, full of snow and exuding some freaky fog (was glad I was still layered). Some tense moments in a few places: one where I almost slid down the steep mountain after slipping on a wet rock and one where I had to bushwhack through the woods to cross a creek (Feathercamp Branch) where the AT bridge was apparently washed out completely. I’d only seen the latter situation once before (NH) and both cases were due to extremely high water. The creek was uncrossable (without falling all the way in), so the muddy and ripped clothes were worth the price... Headed up the second ridge after that and was rewarded with great views of snow capped peaks to the south, Damascus to the west and a huge valley to the north. But then I got to do some switchbacks from hell (at least it was downhill...), where I basically backtracked a mile on the hill and then reversed direction again into town. Walked the last half mile or so on the Creeper Trail again and finished at Larry’s around 1430. All miles counted as new AT miles today! It started to get cold and overcast just as I reached my car - I think I got the best of mid-December weather I could expect. Decided to stay in town another night and see if I could finish the last (almost) four miles in the area. After Larry had finished mopping the floors, I checked back into the Hostel and rested for many hours (reading, surfing the Internet). Before bed, I talked with Larry about his business and trail news - no other people checked into the place and it was almost pouring all evening. More hiking tomorrow! AT Today = 14.30 miles / G.T. AT = 1277.62 miles

Damascus, VA (USA)

For almost two weeks, the weather forecast has been terrible (rain, low temps) for this weekend in each of the hiking zones I monitor. Over two feet of snow fell in the NC/TN/VA mountains and I wasn’t inclined to “wade” through the trail. Actually considered staying home until this morning, suddenly, when I spied a partly cloudy day in the Damascus area. Decided to chance it to keep my hiking steak (almost every other weekend since July) going. Left home later than I wanted and had to drive in rain for many hours. Got gas in Salem at 1455 and was glad that the traffic was pretty light. There was a lot of snow on the ground south of Lexington too - things didn’t look good... I took VA-16 from Marion and drove into the Mount Rogers area (switched to VA-603), hoping that it would be nice the following day (at least) when I came across a hollow with no rain and sunshine! I was close to the intersection of US-58 - found the trailhead by 1645 (less than 30 minutes left until sunset) and, with no sign of rain, headed SOBO. Wasn’t planning anything aggressive, just a short hike before it was too dark. There was enough snow on the ground that it was extremely slippery in places. However, it was mostly mud and slush. Saw lots of deer within a few hundred yards of the road but no people at all. Within the first half mile, my back was drenched because (I later discovered) I hadn’t completely tightened the reservoir cap... Fixed it and was on my way again quickly, albeit wet. The short hike took me back to the Lost Mountain Shelter and I backtracked immediately. It got dark enough that I considered using the headlamp but I could see my tracks in the twilight. Just before the car, I had to navigate a bridgeless, five-inch-deep creek... Got in my car at 1750 (a little over two miles hiked) and headed west on curvy, treacherous US-58 (toward town). Stopped to visit Larry at his hostel and he helped me set up a shuttle for the following morning. Spent the evening sharing hiking stories with him and a young couple from Maryland (SOBO Thru Hikers, “Thumper” and “Fix-It”) who’d been waiting for the USPS to deliver their winter gear. Enjoyed some moonshine and cookie-brownies. Feeling excited to try a longer section tomorrow. 2018 hiking ain’t done yet! AT Today = 1.10 miles / Grand Total AT = 1263.32 miles

Washington, DC (USA)

[work - at 1605, walked with Nancy and Tony T to Amidon-Bowen Elementary School and helped set up Family Math Night (volunteer work) - after we were done (1545), walked back to L'Enfant and took Metro home]

Washington, DC (USA)

[work - went to the holiday luncheon at ATCA HQ in Old Town - more work - at 1730, took SW Shuttle to District Wharf for happy hour at Cantina Bambina (Heineken free drinks) - built gingerbread houses - enjoyed the fire pit - met young people from Peru and Bolivia - walked around on the Wharf (exploring for new restaurants) - stayed until 2000 - SW Shuttle and Metro home]

Landover, MD (USA)

[I woke Mollie up at 0800 and made breakfast (bacon, toast, dried cranberries) for her to eat in her room while she studied; at 1015, we left my apartment to drive to FedEx Field so we could watch the Redskins-Giants game (in my company suite) - after exploring the tailgate area, we went into the stadium at 1100 and ate lunch (BBQ sliders, beans, macaroni and cheese, coleslaw and cornbread) - we had a great time meeting new people, watching the plays on the field and seeing old friends - Mollie was also wrapped up in a graphic novel that she was reading on Overdrive - the game (between the Redskins and Giants) was disappointing for the home crowd (almost a shutout) - we stayed until the end of the third quarter and then drove home - Mollie studied from about 1530 until 1630 - after she packed up, I dropped Mollie off at her mother's house (1655)]

Washington, DC (USA)

[I had to wake Mollie up a few times between 0730 and 0830 (her request) - she got such a slow start that she skipped breakfast - I dropped her off at Edison at 0900 so she could work on producing the school paper - I went to do a lot of errands, including getting groceries and toiletries (shower caps) that Mollie had requested - I also picked up a poinsettia to decorate our apartment (since we weren’t getting a tree) - Mollie had said she wanted to stay at the school to watch a play (“Mama Mia”) with her friends, so she did that starting at 1400 - she’d mentioned that she was going to take the bus home (and I had to drive over to the school to give her bus pass to her) but she ended up getting a ride home from Rachel (1715) - by that time, I'd left for Washington, DC, to attend my company Holiday Party at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel - the cocktail hour(s) were fun, the food was excellent and there were several VIPs in attendance (from Mayor's office, NBA players' family) - there was a comedian (Lamont King) and our CEO (Jan) gave out lots of prizes to the employees - meanwhile, Mollie made herself dinner (pizza, green beans) and studied a lot - I wanted to stay until the end but also wanted to get back to see my daughter - so I left at around 2200 and arrived home about 30 minutes later - Mollie and talked for a short time before I went to bed - she stayed up studying until almost midnight]

Washington, DC (USA)

[work - during lunch hour, walked to Navy Memorial and watched the Bush (41) Funeral Procession (saw George W. and Laura Bush, waited with Congressional Staffers in the cold) - after work (1545), helped Kelly carry a box from her office to her car and we drove over to Pentagon City to have happy hour at Chevys - Mike showed up later - got a call from Sabrina (1700) that she was in Kingstowne (she asked me to join her at the Bonefish Grill) so we all headed there (I went via Metro, Kelly and Mike took their own cars) and we reconvened with Sabrina - learned that one of our former colleagues had passed away - had some fun until around 2000 and then I went home]

Elizabethton, TN (USA)

Woke up early and, when I went outside, discovered that the clouds were departing and it was suddenly t-shirt weather (50s)! It was still a bit dark and I got to see a lot of Christmas decorations in the hills around Elizabethton. Got gas and breakfast (0730) and made a game time decision about the section I'd hike: it looked clearer to the north but I wanted to finish a section near Roan Mountain so took my chances in that direction. Despite there being more fog and low clouds on the ridges (US-19E), I was not disappointed with my choice. Parked at the entrance of a muddy dirt road (hoping I could later get the car out...) on the side of Campbell (Cambell) Hollow Road at 0815 and headed NOBO. The section was shaped like a bowl, with steep descents and climbs indicated in the AWOL guide. But I felt energized as I started and cut the hike into manageable portions - telling myself that I only had two miles down to the river or up to the ridge seemed to overcome the fatigue in my muscles. The clouds were almost completely gone by the time I reached Jones Falls (very pretty cascades but I didn't take a picture). I only had to go down a little more to find a long, flat field that followed a river for a bit before climbing right back up onto another ridge. I had to fight through some sections where lots of trees had fallen - one entire bluff was a mass of devastation (but nice views). It was quite muddy in places and several streams were swollen so much that I had to walk in the water to cross. All day long, I was alone (no wildlife) and it was nearly silent. Occasionally, I'd hear running water, gun shots from distant hunters or dirt bike sounds. I stopped a few times and enjoyed the peace - marveling that I could find such silent places. Another highlight of my day was when I crossed a creek below Mountaineer Falls - pretty! Turned around at the nearby Mountaineer Shelter and then backtracked towards the car. The temps had risen into the 60s by then and I laughed to myself that I was sweating in December! Used the same "bite sized pieces" strategy to finish the section - slowed down a lot near the end but still wrapped up around 10.5 miles by 1230. Changed clothes (the road was so deserted I only saw one car) and later chatted with some locals who were out for a morning walk. Just had to get home (dreaded the drive but that's the price for this adventure)... Drove northeast to Boone and then used US-421 (lots of fog west of Wilkesboro), I-40 and I-85, with a gas stop at Raceway in South Hill, VA (1700). Switched to I-95 in Petersburg and finished the trip in good spirits. This is probably the way I'll have to drive every time I hike south of Virginia but I still have some more hiking to do near Elizabethton before I'm forced to change my driving route. The weekend was great - accomplished everything I'd planned and felt even better to discover that I'd hiked 200 new miles of AT for the fifth year in a row. And I still have time for more! AT Today = 5.20 miles / G.T. AT = 1262.22 miles

Erwin, TN (USA)

The forecast said it was going to be raining everywhere so I didn’t hurry out of town. After getting breakfast at Chick-fil-A (0805), I used US-321 to get to I-26 and headed south. I was able to see for miles in all directions and didn’t see any rain clouds so started thinking about hiking in North Carolina. Stopped for some advice at the Unicoi County Visitors Center (Mollie and I had found it in early 2017). The Volunteer (get it?) was very helpful and showed me where the AT crossed the Interstate (Sam’s Gap). He warned me away from parking there (regular thefts) but I decided to at least check it out. I had to use some back roads but eventually found the trailhead. Saw two other cars and decided to hike there, despite any risk. By then, it had started to sprinkle but I wore my rain poncho again and headed SOBO (0915). There was an immediate climb and I had some good views of I-26 and the trucks that were struggling to cross the gap. Like most of the AT nearby, the trail wound back and forth across the TN-NC border. As I passed 3.5K feet, I reached a dense fog. Still higher, a strong wind blew the rain sideways - it hurt! Sometimes, the wind blew away the fog and I could see a bit farther - but most of the climb was rather miserable. It was probably 55 degrees when I left my car but the wind on the ridge made it feel like 30s. Didn’t see any people or wildlife but heard the ominous cracking and crashing sounds of trees and branches falling nearby (there was at least one tree that fell on the trail after I’d passed and I had to find a way around during the backtrack). Was very happy to reach my turnaround point (Hogback Ridge Shelter) - headed back immediately. I was happy to reach the warm, clear and drier environment near my car by 1115 (after around five miles of hiking). Still felt good so drove back to the north (used TN-352 for a short time) until I reached Erwin. There was no evidence of rain in the Nolichucky River Valley so I parked on River Road (on the other side of the bridge from Uncle Johnny’s). Thought maybe I’d see the dog that hiked with me in 2017 but he never made an appearance... Started NOBO at 1145 and enjoyed the rather flat beginning of the section. Later saw some amazing views of the Nolichucky from the steep (precarious) cliff that the AT took to navigate north. Crossed a large number of swollen creeks, some that overwhelmed the trail in water and mud. There were so many birds out today - guess they don’t think it’s winter yet... Got to one place where two or three huge trees had recently fallen, almost obliterating the AT. Found my way around with great difficulty. In the last mile of my outbound leg, the trail got much steeper (with no switchbacks) and I slowed down tremendously. As I was nearing the top of the ridge, I encountered two older ladies (they looked like twins) who had been dropped off by a shuttle driver at Indian Grave Gap. They told me that it was raining heavily there (about five miles away) and I was glad I’d started in the valley... We parted ways quickly and I eventually made it to my turnaround point, Curley Maple Gap Shelter. I normally head back right away but this time I rested there for about 15 minutes, reading trail wisdom in the shelter log book and enjoying the ubiquitous graffiti. Headed back downhill and made great time - was going so fast that I caught up to the lady hikers again. They had been having a tough time with the downed trees, the mud and the distance. Based on their appearance and demeanor, I recommended they get off the AT when we reached the Nolichucky Campground. They agreed but asked me to help them find the way. Learned it was the first time that “Sun Flo Jo” and “Holly” had hiked the AT together - Holly had never done anything close to the distance or terrain and had COPD. Neither of them had gear or maps (it reminded me of myself when I first started section hiking). I guided them back to the hostel via the road (arrived at 1545 after more than nine miles) and they thanked me for the Trail Magic. I was glad to help and wished them well on future adventures. As I was getting in my car, it started to rain... Luckily, I was done for the day (14+ miles and only got a little wet)! Drove back to Elizabethton and started watching the weather for tomorrow’s hike. Ate dinner at Amigo Mexican Restaurant in Elizabethton (done at 1825) and read in my room until bed time. AT Today = 7.10 miles / G.T. AT = 1257.02