This morning, I was awake (without an alarm) at 0530 and had time for puzzles, Duolingo and reading. I again enjoyed a good breakfast (pancake, French toast, beans, eggs, noodles, veggies) at the Park Hyatt Siem Reap restaurant (0715) and spent time exploring the varied cultural stations (painting, massage, flower petal folding, etc.) set up for our enjoyment. At 0800, I joined my Viking Venus Extension group and boarded the motor coach. While following Charles de Gaulle Boulevard Reth told us more about the area and our itinerary for the day. Our second day in Siem Reap was intended to expose us more fully to the expansive "Ruins of Angkor" and give us a better picture of live in the Thirteenth Century capital of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Thom. While perhaps not as famous as Angkor Wat, it dwarfs that Temple - in fact, there are 20 religious buildings in the Capital Complex! To get inside this area, we had to get off of our large motor coach and get into smaller shuttle buses at the Angkor Wat parking lot (0830). Fortunately, Reth was able to talk to both buses through QV. After the shift to the little buses, we only drove for one mile (15 minutes) before we encountered an entrance to the archaeological site. Our access point was at the South Gate of Angkor Thom - it was huge and featured four faces and three headed elephants. The bridge we used to cross the moat had 54 demons and 54 gods with Naga on both sides. Photos don't do the whole scene justice. Continuing inside Angkor Thom, we made our way to what most people consider the most impressive religious structure inside the complex: Bayon Temple, which features 54 towers, each with a four faced god - a total of 216 faces! We arrived in viewing distance by 0915 but then drove a full circuit of the building - it was huge. Reth explained that the entire complex was a royal residence and intended to showcase the might of the Khmer Empire. After getting off the bus, it was clear that we were in for another "sticky" day (overcast, with temps already in the mid 80s). Our group toured most of the prominent features and learned a lot about the artwork on the walls and buildings. Overall, the whole place was amazing. After rejoining our shuttle buses, we were offered a bathroom break - this was significant because public restrooms near the entrance of the complex were closed when we arrived. Somehow, our drivers located a "Happy Room" in the jungle that could only be accessed by parking the buses in the middle of the road and telling us to hurry. Everyone in Bus 1 was cooperative and we were able to visit the Terrance of the Leper King (1035), where we went "walking into the underworld". Next door to that feature, we were allowed to climb up on the Terrace of the Elephants, which featured more of the three headed elephants. Around us, almost everywhere, were lots of vending children - I noticed signs that the government wants tourists to ignore them because it "prevents them from going to school," Good luck with that... In the distance, we heard gibbon sounds. I'd hoped for a bit more exploring nearby but we had to rejoin the shuttle buses by 1045 in order to depart for Ta Promh Temple. I very much wanted to see that so I continued cooperating with Reth. We arrived at the impressive landmark by 1100 and began another (longer walk) into the jungle. Reth pointing out lots of native trees (Kapok for life jackets & Teak, Mahogany and Rattan for furniture) and we were therefore a bit stunned to suddenly be presented with spectacular views of a massive temple complex that appeared to be merged with the tree roots emerging from the stones. The whole scene reminded me of "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom" and Reth mentioned that the movies "Tomb Raider” (Angelina Jolie) was filed at this site. Unlike Angkor Wat and other locations in Angkor Thom, the whole place was ruled by tree roots that threaten to destroy the entire complex. There were so many wonderful photo opportunities, including one of our Viking Group. Above us, there were lots of loud, exotic bird calls. Our surroundings were verdant but it was very hot and humid. Reth showed us places where International NGOs (mostly sponsored, apparently, by Hindu and Buddhist countries) had restored the buildings to show what they might have looked like before the jungle began redecorating. I got so many photos and then was treated to a special one, using the iPhone Pano feature (Reth;s idea), that showed me at two entrances to a temple building. The walking in this area was slow going, due to lots of people, but the oppressive heat make fast travel difficult anyway. We returned to our shuttle buses again at 1220. As I've felt after hours in Cambodia each day, I was very sweaty and relieved to find another "Happy Room" for freshening up. We departed Ta Promh and drove back towards our motor coach. Along the way, we saw families eating food along the side of road. With our shuttle bus exchange completed (1245) in the same place as last night, we drove to the PT House Restaurant (arrived at 1300) and had our next "set menu" lunch: deep fried spring rolls, chicken curry soup, Beef Loc Lac, stir fried vegetables, jasmine rice, pumpkin custard. MMMMM.... Our group departed the restaurant at 1420 and we drove to Khmer Art School (Artisans Angkor), where we had a tour of the “Heritage Gallery” scheduled. Between 1435 and 1535, we walked through a local trade school where rural residents (many with physical disabilities) of Cambodia learn traditional Khmer techniques for sculpture, silk and lacquer. We also got to see stone working, wood carving, metalwork, etc. Prior to COVID-19, the place apparently employed 1000 people. On the way out, there was a shop for sales but I didn’t buy anything. Instead, I ended up outside, talking with Reth. I told him how impressed I was with his guide skills and Cambodia in general. Once everyone else had returned to the bus (most were carrying shopping bags), we headed back to the Park Hyatt. Almost immediately after we arrived, I made arrangements to take advantage of a complimentary 15 minute Tuk Tuk ride (a gift of the hotel). The Front Desk had me onboard one of the motorbike-trailer combos within minutes and I got my taste of the scooter traffic craziness. Without a windshield, I got to experience many interesting smells. We passed Pub Street and the Old Market, crossed the river and suddenly stopped at Wat Bo, which featured several very pretty pagodas. At that point, I got nervous because my driver (who didn't speak a lot of English) started a hard sell for a longer (and no longer complimentary) ride. Fortunately, I resisted and we next drove north, past Wat Po Lang Ka and crossed the river (back to the west). Closer to the hotel, we passed the children’s hospital. I was able to make out that the driver had sent his children there at times and that it was very good. (Note: Reth had told us something similar and had told us about how a Swiss pediatrician and musician, Dr. Beat Richner, had founded this institution and made such a huge, positive impact on the citizens and their family). Even better than this insight into the wonderful effects of generous philanthropy, was an up close look at the memorial to victims of Khmer Rouge that the driver thoughtfully provided. I got lots of videos throughout my wild ride through the streets of Siem Reap - what an experience! I was back at the Park Hyatt by 1645 and spent time in my room, cleaned and completing my online Thailand entry Visa (I'd been pestered by several of my fellow passengers because they were worried I'd bever get back into Thailand). I also worked on my blog and posted on social media. At 1800, I met my group in the hotel lobby and we drove (with Reth) to Crystal Angkor restaurant in the motor coach (arrived at 1825). Unlike many of the other meals we've eating during the last few weeks, this dinner had no posted menu. Since we were all curious about what we were eating, we collaboratively speculated. In the end, we concluded that the first course was probably a beef salad, while the second course was likely pumpkin soup. For the Main Course, most were convinced that we were eating chicken, sweet & sour pork in a rice cup/dish. The Dessert was easy: chocolate cake. After another amazing dinner of Khmer Cuisine, there was a cultural event planned for our group tonight. For the first time on this trip, I asked to be excused for some “Jim Time” (before we have to leave in the morning). Reth (regretfully ?) assisted me. Since I wanted to experience the Annual Water Festival more than the Circus (the cultural event), he got me a Tuk Tuk and I rode it into town (1920). The ride was similar to the one I'd taken in the afternoon but the difference was that the city was now filled with VERY busy traffic. The driver was only able to get as far as the Old Market but then encountered a wall of other vehicles - he couldn't go forward, back or side to side and their was only a tiny amount of room for pedestrians. Not surprisingly, I walked from there. On the way, I was surrounded by a mass of humanity. Somehow, I found my way to Pub Street. There were so many people but I was one of the tallest and that helped to see where I wanted to go (reminded me of the train stations in Japan). Eventually, I found a place where I felt like I could relax and get a drink: Amara (Mesa on 3rd floor). I'd hoped to sit at a table on the balcony but it was raining again by the time I'd arrived. Upon entering the main section, I was told by the female hostess that “my sister will serve you” and, when I queried, “we are all family. I was lucky that I'd arrived on BOGO cocktail night! “Taida” was my server and she set me up with a Passion (Fruit) Mojito. During this same time, I was provided with (another) cold towel, an aperitif (not sure what it was), watermelon covered in sugar and some spicy banana chips. For my second drink, I got a Tequila Sunrise. During my time in the bar, several members of the staff stopped by my table to practice their (very good) English with me. I finished my Pub Street experience at 2100 and then spent time walking (in the rain) nearby. I explored the rest of Pub Street and had to fend off solicitations by massage parlors and men who offered girls. Next, I crossed the river to see if there was anything happening for the Water Festival - sadly, there was not, I did find some street vendors and passed the Preah Promh Roath Pagoda. Eventually, the wet conditions made me think about returning the Park Hyatt - I made my way there via Pub Street and a street that I recognized as leading to where I wanted to go. Back in the hotel lobby by 2145, I found that I'd beat Bus 1 back from the Circus. While waiting for them to reappear, I visited with the man from our group whose wife had gone to the hospital earlier in the day - she was doing better. When Reth and his group returned, I spoke with several of them too. Reth was very interested in how I'd used my time and I gave him a detailed account (I also thanked him). I was back in my room by 2200 and spent the next hour organizing and planning for departure early in the morning. As I turned out the light (2300), I had to admit that the weather had been great during our visit, with only hints of rain most of the time (and only light drizzly conditions, usually). It’s still been hot but far less brutal than other stops on my Southeast Asia Adventure. I'm a bit sad to be leaving Cambodia...
