Wednesday, November 16, 2022

South America Trip - Day 20

I slept until 0630 this morning - it was raining so I didn’t leave the room early. At 0800, I went down to breakfast in the hotel restaurant and tried several good things they had (pineapple, cereal, eggs, various pastries, cheese bread). I finally decided that I didn’t want to waste a single day of sightseeing. Starting just after 0915, I walked the entire length of Copacabana Beach on Avenida Atlantica, first to the east (through Leme Beach area) as far as Ponta do Leme and then (backtrack) all the way to the southern end (gate of Forte de Copacabana). Using Rua Francisco Otaviano, I then reached Ipanema Beach and walked west about one quarter of the way down Avenida Vieira Souto (just past Posto 8). Backtracked to Ponta do Arpoador, climbed the huge rocks and got photos of much of the famous coastline nearby. The higher terrain (Pao de Acucar and Dois Irmaos) were covered in clouds… Actually used some of the phrases I’ve learned on Duolingo in the last year: once to ensure I was dressed appropriately enough to enter an interesting church I passed and another time when I offered to take a picture for a young couple. In the latter situation, I wasn’t sure what to say so they would know I was pressing the photo button so I called out “Queijo” (cheese). There was a bit of wind at the time but it could also be my pronunciation because they laughed and kissed for the camera. I later figured out that they must have heard “Beijo” (kiss). Regardless, they seemed quite happy with the snaps… My little umbrella wasn’t completely useless but I still got pretty wet in the early part of my three hour walk. The sun finally came out as I reached the hotel and, by then, the character of the beach changed completely. The only people I saw when I started were fishermen, hard-core runners and a happy group of enthusiastic dancers who seemed to be trying to make the rain stop. At the end of my excursion, however, all the “normal” people responded to the sunshine by spilling out of their hotels, covering the streets and resuming their beach vacations. It may be strange to say this but I kind of liked having the place mostly to myself… I then took a rest after my 8 mile walk and planned to get out for more sights and sounds later in the day. During my “siesta” this afternoon, I did a lot of research about how to accomplish some of my “bucket list” activities in the area. Like so many of the things I’ve already done on this trip, logistics are a big challenge - *everyone* has the same ideas and reservations are limited in many good places. I’ve been getting better at using WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger to communicate directly with the venues and I hope these new social media skills pay off in the next 72 hours… At around 1630, I went down to visit the desk clerks (my new friends, Lenora and Guy) and they sent me off to their favorite “Frango” (chicken) spot in Copacabana: Galeto Sats. By then, it had completely stopped raining and there was a pleasant breeze coming off the ocean. Clouds still threatened, though… It took a little effort to find this hole in the wall but it was definitely worth the effort. When I mentioned I’d been sent by a hotel for their best chicken, the waiter set me up with “Galeto ao Molho Sats” (fried chicken, with a special sauce) and Batatas Cozidas (boiled potatoes). Of course, he insisted that I wash it all down with their local Chopp (or two, or three) and I didn’t argue. The food was excellent! The sauce was a mix of citrus and oils and it went well with both the chicken and potatoes. The little place wasn’t busy yet so I watched an interesting Futbol match with the staff. When I tried to pay, my credit card didn’t work and I got alarmed that I didn’t have a way to pay. Then I remembered that the Real to Dollar conversion rate made things seem unnecessarily expensive and used some of my cash to pay for the meal (1800). After a great meal, I took my time going back to the hotel, walking in the surf that gently (and warmly) soothed my feet - they’ve averaged almost 9 miles a day for almost three weeks. There actually weren’t many people on the beach this evening. I heard that the locals think it is too cold right now but it seemed like Cape Cod summer temps to me… I got my second (if I count the Uber ride last night) good view of Cristo Redentor, watching Rio from the top of his hill - hope to get closer soon! The sunset (which happened just after 1800) created some amazingly colorful images (my camera probably doesn’t do them justice). When I got near my hotel again, I stopped into Mar de Copa again so I could try one (or two) of their Caipurnias. The music was good and the atmosphere was fine. I was done at 1955 and walked back to my room. Had to get all the sand off my feet but that felt good. Rested and watched videos on my phone until bed (2210). Maybe you are all getting tired of hearing me say it, but Life is Good!