White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworking in the morning - swimming at UVAC in White River Junction between 0745 and 0830 - then rode 7 miles on bike and did some rowing (done at 0930) - did some errands in Wilder - home by 0945 - more teleworking]

Cape Cod Trip - Day 4

Sadly, my traveling days in 2022 must come to an end...  I was awake again early (0530) and teleworked early.  I managed to wrap up some projects by 0900 and then packed up my car.  I said goodbye to John (no one else was awake) and then drove towards my home (via MA-3, I-93).  I listened to audiobooks on the way.  The weather was very nice and traffic was light - there was no snow at all in Massachusetts.  At Hooksett, I got off the Interstate and used NH-3A to reach I-89.  There was a little bit of snow on the ground there and the amount increased as I traveled north.  Best part of the drive: there was hardly any traffic all the way to Lebanon.  I arrived at my condo by 1115 and spent the rest of the afternoon teleworking.  Overall, it was a great week (plus!) of traveling and I'm glad I got to see almost all of my family members.  Hopefully, we have reached a point in the COVID-19 nightmare where travel planning isn't disrupted like it was during the last few years - 2022 turned out to be a great year exploring the globe!

Cape Cod Trip - Day 3

This morning I was up at 0545 and started teleworking early.  I again ate a light breakfast and left Katie's at around 1000.  Used MA-3 to reach US-6 and crossed at the Sagamore Bridge.  I stopped to buy a gift card (for my dad) at Market Basket in Bourne (1045).  Arrived at Dad's house in Sandwich at around 1100 and visited for a little while in his living room.  We then headed over to a nearby Subway to get lunch (we ordered at 1140 and stayed in the restaurant to eat).  After that, we drove to Pocasset for a walk in the Little Bay Conservation Area - the land was managed by the Bourne Conservation Trust.  It was a bit windy and cold but the sky was clear and visibility was wonderful.  During our nice, relaxing walk, we got many pretty views of Little Bay!  After we were done, Dad drove me south to show me the Shining Waters Rail Trail and then we explored Woods Hole.  Eventually, we went back to my dad's house (arrived at around 1400) and I teleworked for another two hours.  At 1630, I followed Dad and Beth to Plymouth (via US-6 and MA-3) and we went to dinner at Ninety-Nine (started at around 1700 and finished just before 1830).  We had some good conversation and some nice food.  After saying goodbye to them, I then drove back to Katie's (via US-3), arriving there at around 1915.  I went for a walk near the house (trying to get my 10000 steps, which I successfully did), even though it was dark.  Then watched some TV shows with Katie and John (also saw Ella).  After saying good night (2230), I went into my room to rest and was asleep about 30 minutes later.  Another nice visiting day!

Cape Cod Trip - Day 2

I woke up late (0700) because of the late night.  As a result, I didn't get as much teleworking done before John and I were planning to go for a walk (1030).  I ate a light breakfast and then we drove to the Blue Hills Reservation, where we parked at the trailhead.  We started on the trails near Houghton’s Pond but then crossed I-93 (on foot) and did a full circuit of Ponkapoag Pond.  Awesome weather!  John told me he had never visited the two ponds we explored, although I had (see NOV 2021).  He pointed me towards other trails that would be fun to do, including the one (up to the viewpoint on top of the Blue Hills) we once hiked with Johnny (see JUL 2015).  After we were done walking, we drove over to the Braintree Mall and found a Buffalo Wild-Wings so we could eat a late lunch.  We arrived at around 1400 and stayed until 1530 - it was good food, beer and conversation!  We then drove back to Katie's house and I did some more teleworking.  Carolyn stopped by but I had to keep working and only talked to her for a short time.  I also skipped dinner (because I was still full from lunch).  I finally finished my work day at around 2000 and came back out to talk to John and Katie.  Unfortunately, I discovered that they were sick and not really in the mood to do much.  We ended up watching "The Martian" and talked for a little while.  Before I realized it, the clock said that it was 2330 (yikes, I've been staying up late!) - I finally went to bed close to midnight.  Nice day outside!

Cape Cod Trip - Day 1

While beginning to recover from my DC adventure, I spent the morning doing laundry, cleaning my condo and getting re-packed for another trip (this time, by car).  I didn't leave my condo until around 1245 - at that point, I got on I-89 and drove down to Eastman to check on the cross country skiing conditions.  I had my skis but later figured out I'd forgotten the boots!  Oh well - the trails were covered in ice and the whole place was closed anyway.  I then drove a short distance to get gas at Irving in Grantham (1330).  After that, I drove south to the end of I-89 and got off at NH-3A.  Encountered more traffic than I'd expected but I guess it was just people heading home from a vacation in New Hampshire.  After I got on I-93 in Hooksett, the traffic got even more crazy.  However, things improved tremendously after I got into Massachusetts.  I listened to audiobooks on the way.  The weather was great and I got through Boston very quickly.  I used MA-3 to reach Hanover (South) and arrived at Katie and John's at around 1530.  Fortunately, I was in time to be able to visit with my family for a while (Johnnie and Carolyn were there too).  At around 1700, we all got in the car and drove to the Texas Roadhouse in Pembroke.  By then, we had other people (Aria, Dan, Ella) with us - it was a big crowd!  We all had some good appetizers, drinks and entrees and stayed at the restaurant until almost 1930.  After that, everyone scattered to the winds...  Back at the house, I had some conversations with Katie and John and tried to figure out where Mollie actually was (she was on her way to New Zealand).  I read a bit and went to bed after midnight - it was great to see so much family for the Holidays!

DC Trip - Day 5

It’s been a busy few days but it was finally time to go home.  I'd chosen to leave on Christmas because the trains weren't too full and the price was discounted.  The whirlwind of visits with my daughters and several friends was very uplifting - I feel recharged for the (possibly solitary) long winter.  I awoke before my alarm (0500) and double checked all my bags.  When I was leaving the room, I noticed that the hotel staff had left a stocking, full of food, on my door!  That was very nice of them because I hadn't expected to be able to get any food all day except on the train.  I didn't see anyone all the way down to the lobby but there was, in fact, someone working the desk and I was able to check out of the hotel.  After going outside, I noticed that it didn't seem too cold (although I later learned it was around 20 degrees F) so decided to walk to Union Station.  Most of the reason for this was because I wanted to get some steps before going on the train but I also didn't trust the Metro to get me there.  I suppose I could have used Uber but the walk was actually pleasant and, before I knew it, I was at the train station (0620).  Making my way inside the building, I found nothing open and only a few people waiting at the gates.  Just like my last visit on Amtrak, no one ever posted a gate number for the Vermonter (this time #54) and I had to keep my eyes and ears open for when they started boarding for my 0730 departure.  Fortunately, I was very close to the gate at that time (0715) and was able to find a nice seat on the car nearest the engine (I hoped it was the quiet car but I don't think it was) before the train rolled out of Union Station on time.  The weather was clear and cool and the sun lit up the tracks soon after we were moving.  I read several magazines that I'd hoped to finish long ago, sorted through some mail and listened to an audiobook as we made our way to New York City.  The train was mostly empty and I was able to fill up on the snacks from my Christmas stocking.  We arrived at Penn Station (Moynihan Train Hall) at around 1055 and then sat at the station for over 30 minutes.  I hadn't expected anyone else to get on but, just before 1130, a HUGE number of passengers arrived on the car and got inside.  Almost every seat was filled after that!  I learned later that most people were just trying to make their way north to New Haven and would then transfer to another train to reach Boston.  However, other passengers were planning to get off in Hartford and Springfield.  The young lady who sat down next to me at this was quite interesting - she worked for an NGO that was based in Nairobi, Kenya and had a lot of fascinating tales to share.  As a result, I didn't do any reading for the whole time she was aboard.  She departed at Hartford (1400) and I noticed that the train was much emptier by then.  Soon after that, I walked back to the Dining Car and bought a sandwich and some mac & cheese (1430).  The train stopped at around 1500 at Springfield and I was able to go for a walk on the platform during our 15 minute delay there.  The southbound Vermonter actually also stopped there just as we were getting ready to leave again - first time I've seen them at the same time.  Back on the northbound tracks again, the time seemed to pass quite quickly.  There was good food, great scenery and the excited vibe of holiday vacationers (some finished with celebrations and others enroute to them).  There wasn’t a blazing fire, tinseled tree or holiday music but my check of Facebook has made me feel connected to many of my friends' Christmas festivities.  It got dark along the way and I no longer had much to look at outside so I listened to some more audiobooks.  The train engineer kept sounding "Jingle Bells" with his whistle!  We rolled into White River Junction at around 1825 and almost ALL of the remaining passengers on the train got off with me.  My car started quickly and I was soon on my way home.  After I reached my condo and let the kids know I'd made it home safely, I unpacked and unwound in my living room.  Verdict: the Amtrak “Vermonter” has (just as I’d hoped when I moved to the Upper Valley) turned out to be an outstanding alternative to long drives on traffic-filled, construction prone or snow-covered interstate highways.  Merry Christmas, everyone!

DC Trip - Day 4

Erin took us on a tour of her new home in Baltimore today!  I slept well again and was awake by 0600.  Since Erin reported that she was planning to leave Alexandria at 1100, I caught up on emails, reading and blogging while I rested in my room.  Outside temperatures were extremely cold (11 F!).  After coordinating a pick up with Erin (1015), I got on the Metro and rode the Blue Line all the way to Braddock Road.  At that point, the train I was on broke down and I thought for sure I was going to be stranded there.  However, the newly improved WMATA track system (updated since 2019) allowed a following train to cross over to the other track and pick us up, allowing us to continue towards Franconia-Springfield!  I was blown away by this rather unexpected "audible" and happily reported to Erin that I was back on my way to Van Dorn.  I got off the train at around 1110 and met Erin in the parking lot.  We then drove to pick up Mollie and Brenna.  It was great to have another day with my daughters and we had a solid hour of visiting while driving in the car.  Erin's new car had a few hiccups but I think most of them were related to the extreme cold.  We arrived in Baltimore at around 1230 and passed by the stadium where Baltimore and Atlanta were about to start their Christmas Eve game.  Erin took us to her apartment complex and we parked in the garage there.  After reaching Erin and Austin's place, we spent some time relaxing, eating Twizzler's and talking.  From her apartment in the Inner Harbor neighborhood, we got to watch (at close to eye-level!) a Blackhawk/Chinook fly-over formation at the beginning of the Ravens-Falcons game!  We stayed about an hour in the room and then took a tour of the building's amenities.  Erin even took me a short distance down the block to find a Notre Dame Sports Bar (for next time!).  After that, we got in the car and drove to Attman's Deli, our favorite establishment on Corned Beef Row.  We've been there a few times over the years (see APR 2007 and MAY 2010) and it is extremely worrisome to park there.  We managed to find a spot to park this time (wow!) and then got in the long line to order our food.  The girls had a lot of ideas about what we should eat and I was surprised at the large amount of food we took back to the apartment at 1415.  We then enjoyed our meal (Reuben Specialty, latkes, matzah-ball soup, hot & tasty corned beef sandwiches, apple cake, etc.) in Erin’s cozy living room.  Unfortunately, it was a bit too cold to truly explore Camden Yards but I decided I will definitely return to explore more of the area!  We left Baltimore at around 1545 (trying to avoid the departing fans from the Ravens-Falcons game).  We had more time to talk (very nice) and Erin offered to drop me off at L'Enfant Plaza so I wouldn't have to take the Metro again.  Along the way, we topped for gas at Royal Farms in Elkridge, MD (1605).  After Google Maps caused some confusion for navigation, we managed to reach the Holiday Inn (1730).  I said goodbye to the girls and thanked them for such a nice three days of visiting.  It felt strange to be alone in my hotel room again but I filled up the evening by watching some of the NFL games on television, getting some maintenance done on my room (I'd procrastinated for several days) and reading my books.  Since I was full from all the eating earlier in the day, I skipped dinner.  Hoping to get my 10,000 daily step count, I took a long walk around the hotel (several laps of several floors).  I also checked all my bags and set my alarm for an early morning wakeup.  Not really feeling tired yet, I still went to bed at 2200.  The kids checked in just as I was settling down for the night - I think everyone enjoyed our Baltimore adventure!

DC Trip - Day 3

After a restful sleep, I woke up at 0600 and started my telework day.  Mollie slept until almost 0800 and then coordinated a meet up (for lunch) with her sisters and me.  That actually took a LONG time and delayed the breakfast plans I'd had with Mollie.  At around 0915, we were able to leave the hotel room and go down to the Starbucks next to the hotel to pick up some snacks (I used the remaining balance on two Starbucks cards I had been carrying for a while).  I got a breakfast sandwich and Mollie got a bagel - we also each got some delicious holiday drinks.  Back in the room, I continued teleworking while Mollie sorted out the final plan for me to meet with my daughters; a compromise was struck (and nobody really liked it) to meet at Pentagon City at 1100.  At 1030, Mollie and I left on Metro (Blue Line) rode the "long way around" to Pentagon City.  During this ride, the weather went from cold rain and sleet to beautiful blue skies on the Virginia side of the Potomac.  Mollie and I were seated at Matchbox (Erin's choice) at 1100 but had to wait for the Twins for a while (Erin arrived at 1125 and Brenna arrived at 1145).  We all ordered some food (despite problems with the restaurant computers), watched a skillful tow-truck driver poach illegally parked cars just outside the restaurant, chatted about life and 2023 plans, exchanged Christmas gifts and enjoyed the first time we'd all been together for more than a year.  The Twins ordered brunch food but Mollie and I shared a pizza and some salad.  We finished eating and visiting at around 1400 and then walked into the Fashion Centre Mall.  The kids did some Christmas shopping (for their mother) and we took some holiday photos together.  Nicky had been trying to get the girls to come home for her early Christmas Eve Party and the girls told me they'd need to leave soon.  As a result, I made plans with my friend, Stephanie, and then said goodbye to my daughters (Mollie took all her overnight stuff with her).  Fortunately, we made concrete plans to meet up the following day (that prior planning made me feel better about my remaining time in DC).  I walked a short distance to Nighthawk Brewery and met Stephanie at around 1430.  We had a great time catching up on stories about work and life.  We also tried some great beers (I had one called Beer Spero and another, even better, called Babe Lemon Kolsch).  During this time, I also had to address a few work-related emails.  We enjoyed some good beers that Nighthawk makes themselves and stayed at the restaurant until 1730.  I'd planned to go back to the hotel to telework some more but found out that Bridgette and Amanda (grown daughters of my friend who died a few years ago) were available for dinner at around 1800.  Consequently, I took Metro back into DC and got off the Blue Line at Metro Center.  From there, I walked (east and north) to Cuba Libre, passing a LOT of Caps (hockey) fans on the way.  I arrived at the restaurant (my favorite in DC) at 1800 and sat down to happy hour at the bar (they had good caipirinhas).  Bridgette showed up at around 1815 and Amanda arrived 30 minutes later and we all continued drinking until happy hour was over (1900).  After that, we got our table and then sat down to dinner (1915).  It was nice to visit with the girls and I was happy to learn that their lives have been going really well recently.  During the meal, we ate some really good food (I had a Havana sampler plate with good soup and Cuban Sandwich) and nice conversation.  At 2030, we wrapped things up and I said goodbye to Bridgette and Amanda.  I then walked back to my hotel (mostly via 7th Street SW) - it was VERY cold!  Arrived in my room by 2100 and I teleworked until going to bed at 2300.  What an amazing day of visiting and happy stories!

DC Trip - Day 2

I was awake at 0530 and immediately started my telework day.  Rain had been forecasted but the morning was simply overcast.  There was some construction (or guest noise) in the room above me so I eventually decided to leave the room in search of food.  I used one of my Starbuck's gift cards for breakfast (Bacon Sandwich) in the restaurant next door to the hotel (0755) and then walked across the street to Capital Gallery.  Since I hadn't been inside the building since the beginning of COVID-19, I decided to visit my company's new office spaces.  No one was there but they were able to let me inside via remote access.  The offices (including my own) were very nice!  It still wasn't raining so I walked around in the area where I'd been working for more than 10 years.  I found many changes; most of the restaurants had gone out of business (some survived) and there were a few new buildings.  I walked through the Eisenhower Memorial and then returned to the hotel.  For the next several hours, I teleworked.  At 1100, I walked across the street from the hotel to Capital Gallery to meet Kelly and John for lunch at the "Bibimbap" Rice Bar.  We ordered our "customized" food (1115) and spent about an hour visiting and talking about our lives over the previous year.  While eating, we saw Frank (he'd recently returned from living in San Diego).  After checking out our old watering hole (the closed Vie de France), we said goodbye and I walked back to my hotel.  Back in my room (1230), I did some more teleworking.  At 1500, I took the Blue Line (construction made me go via Rosslyn) to Pentagon City so I could have drinks with Arnie at Nighthawk Brewery (new location).  All my outdoor experiences were quite rainy...  I arrived at the bar by 1530 and Arnie joined me a bit later.  We tried some really good beers (I had one called Delirium Noel).  It was great to catch up with Navy flying stories and celebrate nearly 10 years of collaboration at my company.  At around 1700, I left the pub and retraced my steps (Blue Line Metro) to the Hotel.  In my room, I then did some more teleworking.  After wondering all day whether I'd see any of my daughters (they each had excuses), I was pleasantly surprised to learn (1845) that Brenna and Mollie were on their way into DC!  They notified me when they were passing Metro Center (enroute to L'Enfant) and I walked to the Metro Station to meet them on the platform.  We then took the Green Line to Archives Station.  From there, we walked to Hill Country BBQ (arrived at 1915) and ordered a LOT of tasty meat and sides. It was great to see my daughters in a familiar (and one of our favorite) environments and we had some nice talks.  Mollie had brought her overnight bag (to stay with me and go to museums in the morning) but Brenna said she would rather stay at her mother's house.  So, when we finished eating (2015), we dropped Brenna off at Archives Station and then Mollie and I walked to my hotel (via Seventh Street SW).  We arrived at the Holiday Inn by 2045 and Mollie set up her "cocoon" in her big bed.  We exchanged Christmas gifts and relaxed until going to bed at around 2200.  It was great to see so many people today and end the evening with one of my daughters staying overnight with me - I hope tomorrow and Saturday are just as action packed!

DC Trip - Day 1

I'd decided recently that I should make a trip to the DC area in order that I might spend some time with my daughters.  Since the trip on the Amtrak had gone well in late 2021, I bought another round trip ticket for today.  Early in the morning, I teleworked and finished packing.  At around 1030, I drove over to the train station at White River Junction and waited there until "The Vermonter" (#55) came through.  A lady (Joan) asked me a lot of questions because it was her first time traveling on an Amtrak in 25 years - I tried to help her.  The train was a bit late (1145) but the crew made an attempt to catch up throughout the trip.  I set up my computer in a seat as far to the front of the five-car train as I could get (several cars were not open for passenger use) and teleworked for several hours.  The weather was nice and I enjoyed the views of the Connecticut River from the left side of the train.  Checking our progress, I noticed a town in northern Massachusetts called "Satan Kingdom" - strange name!  I was able to work without disturbance for almost two hours but then a huge (school?) group got onboard and got very loud.  By then, I'd noticed that at least one car towards the front had opened up - I moved all my stuff there as soon as I could.  Eileen called (with good news) just before we arrived in Springfield and I talked to her until we stopped.  Since we were still behind schedule, we were only at the station for a short time and I was not able to do any walking on the platform.  Back on the main track and headed south, I moved again, this time as far to the front of the train as I could get.  Along the way, I'd asked the crew a few times about where the "quiet car" was and I'd been assured that it would be added in New Haven.  So, I continued teleworking until about 1600.  After that, I listened to audiobooks and did some other reading.  At New Haven, I got out of the train to watch the engine change but that only took about 15 minutes (hard to get many extra steps).  Soon, we were headed towards New York City at a quicker pace. It was soon dark and there wasn't as much scenery to look at, unfortunately... The crew didn't open the "quiet car" until just before we reached Penn Station - as soon as I could move, I did.  For a while, I was by myself in the front car but, in NYC, all the seats filled.  The crew never hung up the sign so it was noisy for the rest of the trip.  And I lost WiFi...  I tried to keep reading to pass the time and things went alright.  We arrived at Union Station by 2200 (a bit early) and I was able to reach the Metro station very quickly.  Just as I got to the platform, a westbound Red Line train arrived and I was able to get onboard.  It was strange to be riding on a WMATA train after so long!  I got off at Gallery Place and was lucky again - just as I arrived at the Yellow/Green platform, a train rumbled into the station and I was barely (after dodging some clueless tourists) able to board before it left.  At L'Enfant, I found the exit I normally use (near the FAA) blocked for construction.  As a result, I had to take the long way to get to the street (I learned later that I could have used the elevator).  Once on D Street (SW), I walked east to the Holiday Inn on Sixth Street (SW) and checked into the hotel.  There were broken elevators so I had to do a lot more walking to get to my room but was still happy to find myself there by 2245.  I let my daughters know I was in town and then did some reading until I felt ready to go to sleep (2355).  What a day - but I'm here!

Woodstock, VT (USA)

Since I had signed up to volunteer at the Billings Farm & Museum this afternoon, I started teleworking very early.  I stopped working at around 1230 and drove over to over to Woodstock so I could assist the staff with the annual “Christmas at Billings Farm” event.  Along with the normal activities, they have sleigh rides, mince pie making, cheese sampling and candle making.  My job today (between 1300 and 1600) was to assist the visitors in the latter task and we had a good time!  I made a candle of my own that turned out well.  As always, getting to share some of the joy that people feel during the Season is awesome!  I did some shopping in West Lebanon on the way home and, by 1715, I started teleworking again (continued until very late).  Feel great that I was able to help out at the Farm once more in 2022!

Grantham, NH (USA)

First ski of the Winter!  With my Salomon skis newly waxed by Omer and Bob's, I was ready to go as soon as the groomers finished their work this morning at Eastman Cross Country Center.  Arrived at the Clubhouse by 1100 and found that the groomers had made lots of awesome tracks.  Temps were in the low 30s and there were some overcast skies - these conditions were great and I logged 120 minutes on the green and blue trails near the Clubhouse (1110 to 1310).  What a great start to the 2022-2023 season!

Grantham, NH (USA)

After we got a pretty significant snowstorm yesterday (power outages all over the Upper Valley, 8ish inches in Hanover, 18ish inches at higher elevations), I felt sure I’d be able to start off the Cross Country ski season at Eastman.  I had to go over there anyway to pick up my Eastman sweatshirt (won as part of the Ski-Season Kick-off Raffle).  Unfortunately, when I arrived (1100) they told me they weren’t able to get the grooming done and suggested that I come back on Sunday.  Not wanting to waste a trip, I drove over to Heath Forest to try some snowshoeing.  I was the first person (idiot?) to break trail and every step was a lot of work.  Encountered some big drifts and lots of wet snow but I still managed to hike a good portion of the trail system - it was slow going, though.  I also had to contend with random drops of heavy/wet piles of snow off the evergreen trees.  By the end of the snowy excursion (1300), I was exhausted and drenched.  Still, I felt glad that we finally have some wintry weather and look forward to getting out on the ski trails tomorrow!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[started teleworking very early - SNOWING - drove to White River Junction (arrived at 0830) and spent three hours volunteering at UVAC (until 1130), shoveling, snow-blowing, pressure washing the Family Changing Room and a little window cleaning - home by 1200 - teleworked until late]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[telework early - errands in West Lebanon - headed to UVAC in White River Junction to volunteer but no one was available to give me projects (Chris wasn't working) - instead, went swimming between 0810 and 0855 - after that, I found Jess and spent my volunteer time cleaning windows (between 0900 and 1100) - was home again by 1115 and teleworked some more]

Lisbon, NH (USA)

This morning, I went to Mass in Lebanon at 0800 and then did some errands in West Lebanon.  After that, drove to Bath (I-91, VT/NH-25, River Road, NH-10, US-302) so that I could walk more of the Amonoosuc Rail Trail.  This time, I did the section between between Bath and Lisbon (roughly 4.5 miles in each direction).  It was sunny and cool (low 30s) and I really enjoyed hearing the sound of the river as I walked towards Littleton.  Saw lots of animal tracks (moose, turkey, etc.) and waterfowl.  However, didn’t see any people in the three-plus hours I was on the trail (perhaps everyone else is watching the World Cup?).  On the way home, I did some shopping at Walmart in Woodsville (1345).  I also stopped at Hatchland Farm and explored their showroom, researching their products - I learned they have ground beef all year.  Later, I drove home, using the reverse route of the morning.  I arrived at my condo at around 1445 after a satisfying day outdoors!

Grantham, NH (USA)

[volunteering (assisting with coordinating parking for Swim Meet) at UVAC in White River Junction between 0730 and 1030 - rainy and miserable - got free lunch from snack bar - drove to Grantham to attend Eastman Cross Country Center Open House (1100) - bought membership for 2022-2023 - left at around 1200 but then got a call that I'd won a raffle - backtracked to pick it up (it as a nice pullover shirt with an Eastman logo) - drove back to Hanover and attended the Holiday Market at the RWB Community Center (1245 to 1315) - home by 1330]

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworking in the morning - swimming at UVAC in White River Junction between 1430 and 1515 - then rode 7 miles on bike - done working out at 1600 - did some errands in Wilder - home by 1630 - more teleworking]

Woodstock, VT (USA)

This morning, I went to Mass in Lebanon (0800) and then drove over to Woodstock so I could volunteer at the Billings Farm for their Thanksgiving event (arrived at 0930).  This time, I got to watch the joy on the faces of the visitors as we assisted them in making their own apple turnovers!  We had a continuous stream of families with young kids and I did a lot of cleaning, instructing and encouraging.  I walked around a good bit during my break(s) and enjoyed the rather quiet, end-of-Thanksgiving-weekend vibe.  Stayed until around 1500 and then went home. As always, it was great to be able to help out at The Farm!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - I went to White River Junction at 1230 so I could workout at the UVAC - spent 45 minutes swimming and then did some stationary bike, rowing and weights - afterwards (1430), I drove home and changed into hiking gear - I walked the trail system in Greensboro Ridge (volunteer for Hanover Conservancy) from 1500 to 1600 - more teleworking after that]

Norwich, VT (USA)

[I teleworked all morning and then (1100) went over to Sacred Heart to assist with the annual Thanksgiving Dinner preparations - when I arrived, Len gave me a list of stops where I needed to pick up food - I first went to DHMC (hams, cranberry sauce, other supplies), then Lou's (hams), then Dan & Whit's (hams) and then stopped at Cumberland Farms in Wilder to get a free drink and pick up a Redbox movie - making my way back (via I-91 and I-89) to Lebanon, I attempted to pick up some more hams at Salt hill but they were closed - back at the Church, Len sent me and John P to pick up carrots and stuffing that had been prepared at the Kimball Union Academy - John drove Len's big truck (it had a trailer attached) and we managed to get all the food (and back up the truck and trailer down a long road) successfully - after that, we returned to the Church and finished up my volunteer time by unloading everything - I was back at my desk by 1500]

South America Trip - Day 24

Somehow - despite loud talkers, insensitive aisle walkers and crying babies - I managed to doze a few times during the night...  By 0430 (New York time), I was awake and went back to watching movies.  The flight attendants came around about 30 minutes later and served breakfast (eggs, veggies, bread).  I couldn’t see much out of the window from where I was sitting but I did witness the early morning glow of the sunrise.  We landed at JFK by 0645 but then got to park on a taxiway for a little while.  Eventually (0715), we deplaned and started through to Customs (Terminal 4).  I used my Global Entry and bypassed the entire set of lines - the wait for everyone else was showing as 60 minutes but it didn’t even take me five minutes!  I found the baggage claim area and (after missing my larger bag as it passed a few times) was soon (0730) able to leave the terminal.  Bound for Terminal 5, I walked a short distance (brrr) and got to the USO just before 0800.  Since they didn’t open until 0900, I killed time in the area nearby.  Not surprisingly, I was feeling very tired...  I called Dartmouth Coach to ask if I could reschedule my bus departure time (from Grand Central) but they said the earlier bus was sold out - dang!  At 0845, the volunteer at the USO let several of us inside and I got some snacks.  I spent the next few hours resting and waiting in the warm area.  At 1100, I got my stuff together and started making my way towards Manhattan.  It took a while to walk back to the AirTrain platform but I lucked out when I got there because a Jamaica-bound train was just arriving.  There were very few people on board and it only took me about 25 minutes to reach the end of the line.  Unfortunately, when I tried to pay the exit fare, I found that the Metro card I had bought on the first day of the trip no longer worked.  This minor inconvenience cost me an extra dollar (for a new card) but I was actually able to use my credit card this time (1130).  I was also able to buy a ticket for the LIRR before heading out to the platform (1130).  It was SO cold!  The westbound train came by at 1150 and I had no trouble getting a seat.  The day was crisp and clear and there was plenty of scenery to see on the way.  At around 1230, I exited the train at Penn Station and immediately got a bit disoriented.  By the time I reached street level, I realized I was inside a massive building called the Moynihan Train Hall.  Since it was so impressive, I explored it a bit - there was plenty of shopping and places to eat.  While trying to call up an Uber, I determined that the price had gone up almost $10 in just an hour since I'd last checked.  I ultimately decided to walk.  Outside, I found myself on 34th Street and made my way through the area (Macy’s entrance) that would be one of the main points of the Thanksgiving Day parade route (I sent the girls a photo).  I then passed the Empire State Building and crossed Fifth Street, which I figured out was the dividing point for the west and east side street naming.  Later, I turned north and walked all the way to 42nd Street.  There, I turned east and passed Grand Central and the Chrysler Building.  At 1300, I came across the driver for the 1:30 PM Dartmouth Coach, which hadn’t yet started loading, and he gave me the impression that I might have a good shot to get on the earlier bus.  He also suggested places where I could wait and/or leave my bags temporarily while waiting for the next one (if needed).  However, I got really lucky when a mother and daughter pair arrived 10 minutes later and told the driver they had left the son/brother behind in Lebanon.  I was very pleased to hear this and the driver let me get onboard immediately.  I then settled in while the bus filled completely.  We departed at 1330 and took what I’d call a scenic route to leave the City.  Along the way, we passed the UN Headquarters and took surface streets north.  Eventually, we crossed the river and I think we used I-87 or US-9 to reach I-287 and then got on I-684 to reach I-84.  However, I was so tired that I fell asleep just after watching the first movie (“The War with Grandpa”).  I woke up somewhere just north of Hartford (crossing into Massachusetts).  It was dark and snowy for the rest of the drive and I tried to pass the time with dozing and watching the last part of another movie.  We stopped at least once along the way to change to a new driver (I might have missed when we stopped early to pick him up) - by 1830, we rolled to a stop at the Hanover Inn and I found Monte waiting to drive me home.  He was so helpful and thoughtful all the way through the process!  By the time I entered my condo, he had retrieved a huge pile of all my mail and made sure I was settled in safely.  I guess my fatigue was obvious!  Before going to sleep, I sent the girls a photo of Smurfey, sleeping in bed.  I went to bed myself - after one of the longest travel days I can remember - at 2045.  Wow - what a vacation - it lived up to all the hype and expectations and I can't wait to go on another adventure soon!

South America Trip - Day 23

Even though I wanted to sleep in later because of my long travel day, I was still wide awake by 0545.  Ever since arriving in Rio, I’d been hoping to get a late checkout from my hotel on this day but the desk clerks told me I had to wait until today to ask ("hotel policy").  So, on the way to breakfast (0715), I checked on this perk and they confirmed I could keep the room until 1400.  After that, I sat down to a nice breakfast (eggs, sausage, yogurt, pastries) in the pleasant morning air.  Unlike all the previous days at the Hotel Mercure, I noticed many more people in the dining area - it must be the weekend crowd.  Also many people I encountered (including hotel staff) were wearing masks - that seemed ominous.  After I was done with my meal, I walked back to Droga Raia and picked up some more cough drops (0745).  Subsequently, I returned to my room and did some packing.  I also watched more movies, did some reading and tried to get mentally prepared for my long journey home.  At 1300, I left my room and headed for the lobby.  I checked out of the hotel and then ordered another Uber (1305) and was soon on my way back to Galeo Airport.  My driver (Nelson) was quite aggressive, which seemed to be a helpful trait for those driving the chaotic city streets of Copacabana and Lagoa.  We passed the lake again and it had lots of sailboats on it this time.  Eventually, we made it onto the highway and I was whisked out of the city that I’ve been enjoying for the last several days - sad to leave.  We reached the airport by 1345 and then I had to locate the LATAM counter - not an easy task.  After walking almost the entire length of the terminal, I finally managed to find it.  Hoping to take advantage of my early arrival, I asked one of the LATAM employees who spoke English if it were possible to “start early” in the check-in-process.  They said that it was and directed me towards the self-check-in kiosks.  The last two flights in my vacation itinerary seemed a bit more challenging because I had to check bags to New York (international) but then fly to Sao Paolo (Guarulhos) within Brazil's domestic system.  Somehow, I managed to navigate the Portuguese prompts (including tagging my own bags) and got in the queue for the baggage weight/submission step in the process.  It took a while to turn in my bags because the lines were slow.  However, I was able to get both bags checked for free again and was soon headed to the security gate for Domestic Departures.  As I’ve seen for most of my stops through airports on this vacation, the security process was much quicker and straightforward here.  I then had to make another journey through the Duty Free shop to get to the date area.  By this point (1415), I was hungry for lunch and began looking for a place to eat.  After scoping out a few small bistro counters, I decided to take advantage of the short line at Subway.  Even though the ladies there didn't speak English, we were able to work together to construct a 30 cm Italian BMT for me (and I even was able to help an English speaking lady with her order).  After I got my food, I sat in the dining area to enjoy it (1425).  I didn’t have to be in a hurry because I had almost three hours until my flight - it was nice to not feel rushed.  After finishing the sandwich, I walked a bit deeper into the gate area, passing lots of crowds, and eventually found a place to sit quietly and charge my phone.  Until it was time to board, I pretty much stayed right there, reading.  During the same interval, I heard very little English and the sign with gate assignments was very slow to update.  With this in mind, I paid very close attention to announcements and crowd behavior.  By using some of my few Portuguese words, was ultimately able to arrive at the proper gate on time (1630).  While standing in the boarding queue, I witnessed a tremendous amount of annoyance on the part of other passengers because the cabin crew had apparently decided not to allow anyone to bring any carry-on luggage aboard.  Tensions were high but we eventually started down the jetway.  Even then, though, we got to stand in a big line that stretched all the war from the gate to the back of the airplane (A321). I was finally in my seat by 1715 and we pushed back from the gate shortly afterwards.  This time, I was in a middle seat and it meant I had very little room to move (meanwhile, there were six empty seats in front of me in the exit row...).  We got airborne at around 1735 and, departing south, got a spectacular view of the entire part of Rio I’d been visiting for the last few days.  The evening sky was filled with clouds and scattered showers but the glow of the setting sun made the images of the city quire memorable.  After all the logistics in getting onboard, we had a very quick flight to Sao Paolo (landed at 1825).  When our plane parked, I believe I witnessed a flight attendant rendition of “who is our favorite section?” because they made everyone stay seated and called random rows to exit.  This was annoying, actually, but they were completely in charge.  Once off the plane, I found that I had to enter yet another series of queues that took me from the domestic area to the international area.  Along the way, I had to scan a ticket, visit Brazilian customs and then pass through the heaviest security I’ve yet seen on the trip,  My carry-on backpack got flagged for a search but I was ultimately cleared, unlike several other poor folks who had to throw things away.  After that, I found myself inside the huge international terminal - it was full of people and I had to walk clear across the entire place in my search for a bar/pub.  Along the way, I passed a busy area where a Doha-bound flight from was boarding - everyone looked like they were psyched for Brasil in the World Cup.  Although the National Team didn't actually play until the following Thursday, I guess everyone wanted to see the other matches too.  After finding no where to sit down for a drink, I backtracked to the beginning of my tour of the terminal and noticed a small place called Bleriot where I was able to get some beers (Sol Cerveza Mexicana) and a snack. While there, I heard a lot of English being spoken and a few folks even engaged me in conversation.  Overall, there was lots of friendly banter.  After a nice break (2045), I moved to another area so I could charge my phone and wait for the departure of my next flight.  By 2200, I decided to go looking for the gate and found it nearby.  Group 1 was already loading!  Wanting to use some more of my Reals, I bought a bunch of candy at a store nearby (2215).  Back at the gate, I waited a little longer before my group was called.  After that, it took a while to reach my seat, on the aisle in a middle trio near the back of the plane.  The aircraft was mostly full.  A lady in the seat next to me said hello and I realized she had sat next to me on the previous flight.  Behind me, two toddler-aged kids sat down with their mother - it could be a long night...  The doors closed at 2300 and we took off almost on time.  Even though I was exhausted and ready for sleep, I started watching movies because the crew didn’t seem to be planning to “darken ship” for the nine hour flight.  Just before midnight (Sao Paulo time), I was surprised when the flight attendants brought me some dinner (pasta, veggies, bread, candy).  Since it was available, I didn’t pass up the opportunity and add a cup of wine too... After getting done with my meal, I wrapped up in my blanket and tried to sleep.  We were over the Atlantic Ocean when the LONG day finally ended...

South America Trip - Day 22

Yesterday’s cold really threw me for a loop… Fortunately, I woke up this morning (0615) fully rested. Not wanting to spend anymore time in my room, I went downstairs early and, when I found the restaurant wasn’t open for breakfast yet, walked a few blocks north to find a pharmacy. I located one (DrogaRaia) that was actually open 24 hours and, after some assistance with Google Translate, bought some Halls cough drops (0650). Back at the hotel, I ate a filling breakfast (eggs, sausages, yogurt, pastries and cheese bread). I felt much better this morning and decided that I would stick to my original plan of visiting Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf). For the last three days, I’d been attempting to make a ticket purchase (unsuccessfully) on the Parque Bondindo website so figured I would get an early start in case I had problems getting a ride on the gondola lift. My Uber (with Andre, 0750) got me to the park entrance just before 0800, when operations were supposed to begin. However, it soon became clear that the gondolas didn’t start running on Fridays until later - I eventually figured out that the first one departed at 0900. Since I had time to kill, I tried the website again and was actually able to buy a ticket (0820). This proved to be fortuitous, since there were separate queues for people with and without tickets. As a result, I was one of the first people to get into the park when they opened and soon found myself riding a gondola from Praia Vermelha up to Morro da Urca. The views were spectacular and the ride was quick. At the first stop of the journey to the top of Sugarloaf, I explored briefly in the area near the two gondola lift entrances and marveled at several amazing views of Rio. One of the most interesting things I saw was the huge turn that aircraft had to make when taking off from Aeropuerto Santos Dumont - southbound departures had Sugarloaf right on the nose as they got airborne! A little bit later, I walked to the north end of the Morro And boarded the second gondola that would take me the rest of the way to the top of Sugarloaf. On top of the second hill, there was a pleasant breeze and even better views of the surrounding city. There were many shops and bistros there too - I imagine it would be a very nice date to bring someone to the top of Sugarloaf at sunset time and enjoy a caipirinha or other cocktail… Not wanting my visit to end immediately, I took a walk on several different stairways and jungle covered walkways that ringed the Morro. Before long, however, I ran out of things to do and pictures to take so I made my way back to the gondola entrance and returned to Morro da Urca. By this point, it was getting busier and warmer and I was ready to try another activity. One more gondola ride, took me to the base of the entire system, and I was soon standing on the street. Using suggestions from my guidebook, I next explored the area near Praia Vermelha and then walked down the northern side of the Urca waterfront. This side-trip took me on on a route that was directly opposite (across Enseada de Botofogo and Baia de Guanabara) from where I’ve been walking yesterday (Flamengo). After stopping at Igrejs de Nossa Senhora do Brasil and Praia da Urca, I backtracked to Avenida Pasteur and ordered another Uber. My driver (Joao) found me and then made a great move across four lanes of traffic to get us quickly on our way to Jardim Botanico. I arrived at (1135) and (with help) quickly found the ticket booth (1145). A nice lady gave me a detailed map in English and I began to explore the shaded groves and pretty gardens that filled the area within the walls. From several angles, I saw the nearby (as the crow flies) Christ the Redeemer statue. I rested happily on benches, filled up on water from natural fountains, watched monkeys playing and took a break at a little café (1230). By this point, the temperatures had, once again, risen into the high 80s and I had to decide what to do next. Nearby, was the neighborhood of Lagoa - while I’d seen the Lake briefly during an Uber ride yesterday, I hoped to get a closer view. However, my navigation was not quite as good as I would’ve liked, and there were several private properties along the west side of the lake. This meant that I soon found myself, instead, in the neighborhood of Leblon. Figuring I’d probably do better if I just headed straight to the beach, I continued south on Avenida Bartolomeu Mitre. Once I was near the sand (far west side of Leblon-Ipanema, near Posto 11), I found images that were completely different than just a few days before. So many people were on the beach! Of course, there were many bathers but there were also people playing handball and some sort of soccer volleyball. And there were so many pop-up vendors near the people on the sand, selling drinks and snacks and swimwear. I realized at that moment that I was about four miles from my hotel and still had to walk - fully exposed to the sun - a long way. The sun-bronzed and leathered bodies of the Cariocas nearby seemed like a cautionary tale but I kept going. During this phase, I also denied myself several drinks that seemed inviting - I knew that if I sat down I’d never get moving again. Ultimately, I reached Hotel Mercure at around 1420, having walked over 11 miles around the city. I realize it would take weeks of exploring to truly appreciate Rio but it does feel good to have seen glimpses of so much of it! Once again, I rolled into a siesta period, hoping for a second wind to enjoy my last night in Brazil. Today’s rest seemed to go better (no nap needed) and I felt ready to go to dinner by about 1800. I’d seen a burger place to the west called “Bob’s” and decided to check out the Brazilian version of fast food. The evening was already cooler as I walked and, after ordering the “Big Bob” (1815), I sat down to dinner (double patty burger, chicken fries, banana-caramel shake) on their patio. Up until today, I’d been approached by panhandlers only a few times during this trip - most were friendly and smiling. During this meal, however, one came upon me from behind and seemed unwilling to just give up after my first “nao.” I was startled (more than anything else) and was a bit short with him. Afterwards, I walked across Avenida Atlantica and proceeded down to the beach. The sky was clear and I could see all the prominent landmarks for miles in every direction. It didn’t occur to me until later that I should have scanned the southern skies, once more, in search of the elusive Southern Cross… I watched more “Fut-Volei” and handball while dipping my toes once more in the Copacabana surf. Near my hotel, I decided to return to Mar de Copa for one more adult beverage. I’d been seeing people ordering a drink (“coco”) that seemed to be entirely comprised of a giant coconut so I got one too. It turned out to include an almost unlimited amount of coconut milk - tasty and hydrating. After that, I ordered one more caipirinha - it hit the spot! Meanwhile, I watched what appeared to be informal tournaments of the beach sports near the volleyball nets and secretly cheered on the different duos of players in range. By 2000, I was tired and decided to head back to the hotel (2000). At the front door, I encountered a young lady who seemed annoyed (much more than I expected) that I couldn’t respond in Portuguese to whatever she wanted. By her (over)reaction, I can only conclude that I dodged a big bullet in several ways… In my room, I watched movies on my phone until it was time for bed (2300). Last night in Rio…

South America Trip - Day 21

I’d been advised to be very careful about petty crime in Rio so I changed my normal plan of walking everywhere - Ubers work great in this city! This morning, I ate breakfast at the hotel and then got a ride (with Alvaro, 0800) to the neighborhood of Corcovado (“hunchback”). When I arrived (0800) at the ticket counter for the Cog Train that would take me to the summit and Cristo Redentor statue, I had no trouble getting a ride on the next train (0820) - it was much easier there than online… It was already quite warm (70s) and humid so a climb to 2300 feet promised to bring breezy relief. Along the way, we passed through the deep jungles of Parque da Tijuca (didn’t see any of the monkeys, though). After about 25 minutes in the incline (quite steep), I joined hundreds of other folks (on my train and earlier ones) in trying to get the best pictures of the statue and city skyline far below. Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) was easily viewable, since the weather was good. What a great day to be on top of the world! I didn’t tarry long up there (the huge number of selfie sticks and social media posers were tiresome). By 0930, I was back at the bottom of the hill amd ordered my second Uber. This time, the driver (Cesar, 1000) took me to the Santa Teresa neighborhood (1000) and dropped me off at the famous Arcos da Lapa. I was in luck: the “bonde” train passed over the span while I was watching. From there, it was a short walk to the equally famous Escadaria Selaron (colorful steps that reminded me of a town I’ve visited in Sicily. The commercialism and (more) selfie culture made me pause in climbing - I also found some shade. After reaching the top, I backtracked through the crowds until I found the Catedral Metropolitana, a huge pyramid shaped church near the Arcos. Once inside, I marveled at the pretty stained glass windows and ubiquitous statues of São Sebastião. Back in the hot sun (temps in the high 80s), I resisted the temptation to order my third Uber. Instead, I walked east into the Centro neighborhood. I’d heard that this place was safest during the work week so I crossed through several blocks of highrises and old, historic buildings (I believe I passed the Teatro Municipal and Museu Nacional de Belas Artes). I also walked through a series of pretty parks that were close to the water: Praca Pistóia, Jardins do MAM and Monumento Nacional aos Mortos da Segunda Guerra Mundial. After that, I found myself on the waterfront, following a route I’d last seen in Copacabana called Rio a Pe (“Walk Rio”) along with many bikers, joggers and other walkers. Passing Marina da Glória, I reached Parque do Flamengo. The views of the sun, sand and Sugarloaf (across the harbor) were tremendous! Also, I kept seeing other angles of Cristo Redentor - and I noticed a lot of paragliders near the big statue. I’d been going so long on foot that I began to believe I was really close to the Urca neighborhood but I soon realized I’d have to cross the entire Botafogo neighborhood first. That was where I ran out of steam (after more than six miles). Looking for a break, I bailed on the Rio Walk and found a little bistro (Farani 1903 Sports Bar) that specialized in steak. I may have disappointed them by only ordering two Sprites and French Fries… After I was finished with my food boost (1225), I walked a short distance to the south and looked inside of the Basílica Imaculada Conceição. Then it was time for another Uber (1235). Fortunately, the ride (with Fabio, 1250) was the fastest of the day and I was back in my hotel by 1250. With the hot sun, a huge list of “must sees” and a bit of a cold (it finally got me!), I’m happy with all the things I did this morning. I was hoping that another siesta would get me ready for a second wind in the evening but that never happened. Instead, I took a nap and rested in my room for the rest of the day. My dinner was an apple I’d been carrying with me since Buenos Aires. I found out that my hotel has HBO (English, with Portuguese subtitles) and enjoyed watching a movie called “Gunpowder Milkshake”. Went to bed just before 2100 - hoping to beat this cold with a lot of rest and hydration…

South America Trip - Day 20

I slept until 0630 this morning - it was raining so I didn’t leave the room early. At 0800, I went down to breakfast in the hotel restaurant and tried several good things they had (pineapple, cereal, eggs, various pastries, cheese bread). I finally decided that I didn’t want to waste a single day of sightseeing. Starting just after 0915, I walked the entire length of Copacabana Beach on Avenida Atlantica, first to the east (through Leme Beach area) as far as Ponta do Leme and then (backtrack) all the way to the southern end (gate of Forte de Copacabana). Using Rua Francisco Otaviano, I then reached Ipanema Beach and walked west about one quarter of the way down Avenida Vieira Souto (just past Posto 8). Backtracked to Ponta do Arpoador, climbed the huge rocks and got photos of much of the famous coastline nearby. The higher terrain (Pao de Acucar and Dois Irmaos) were covered in clouds… Actually used some of the phrases I’ve learned on Duolingo in the last year: once to ensure I was dressed appropriately enough to enter an interesting church I passed and another time when I offered to take a picture for a young couple. In the latter situation, I wasn’t sure what to say so they would know I was pressing the photo button so I called out “Queijo” (cheese). There was a bit of wind at the time but it could also be my pronunciation because they laughed and kissed for the camera. I later figured out that they must have heard “Beijo” (kiss). Regardless, they seemed quite happy with the snaps… My little umbrella wasn’t completely useless but I still got pretty wet in the early part of my three hour walk. The sun finally came out as I reached the hotel and, by then, the character of the beach changed completely. The only people I saw when I started were fishermen, hard-core runners and a happy group of enthusiastic dancers who seemed to be trying to make the rain stop. At the end of my excursion, however, all the “normal” people responded to the sunshine by spilling out of their hotels, covering the streets and resuming their beach vacations. It may be strange to say this but I kind of liked having the place mostly to myself… I then took a rest after my 8 mile walk and planned to get out for more sights and sounds later in the day. During my “siesta” this afternoon, I did a lot of research about how to accomplish some of my “bucket list” activities in the area. Like so many of the things I’ve already done on this trip, logistics are a big challenge - *everyone* has the same ideas and reservations are limited in many good places. I’ve been getting better at using WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger to communicate directly with the venues and I hope these new social media skills pay off in the next 72 hours… At around 1630, I went down to visit the desk clerks (my new friends, Lenora and Guy) and they sent me off to their favorite “Frango” (chicken) spot in Copacabana: Galeto Sats. By then, it had completely stopped raining and there was a pleasant breeze coming off the ocean. Clouds still threatened, though… It took a little effort to find this hole in the wall but it was definitely worth the effort. When I mentioned I’d been sent by a hotel for their best chicken, the waiter set me up with “Galeto ao Molho Sats” (fried chicken, with a special sauce) and Batatas Cozidas (boiled potatoes). Of course, he insisted that I wash it all down with their local Chopp (or two, or three) and I didn’t argue. The food was excellent! The sauce was a mix of citrus and oils and it went well with both the chicken and potatoes. The little place wasn’t busy yet so I watched an interesting Futbol match with the staff. When I tried to pay, my credit card didn’t work and I got alarmed that I didn’t have a way to pay. Then I remembered that the Real to Dollar conversion rate made things seem unnecessarily expensive and used some of my cash to pay for the meal (1800). After a great meal, I took my time going back to the hotel, walking in the surf that gently (and warmly) soothed my feet - they’ve averaged almost 9 miles a day for almost three weeks. There actually weren’t many people on the beach this evening. I heard that the locals think it is too cold right now but it seemed like Cape Cod summer temps to me… I got my second (if I count the Uber ride last night) good view of Cristo Redentor, watching Rio from the top of his hill - hope to get closer soon! The sunset (which happened just after 1800) created some amazingly colorful images (my camera probably doesn’t do them justice). When I got near my hotel again, I stopped into Mar de Copa again so I could try one (or two) of their Caipurnias. The music was good and the atmosphere was fine. I was done at 1955 and walked back to my room. Had to get all the sand off my feet but that felt good. Rested and watched videos on my phone until bed (2210). Maybe you are all getting tired of hearing me say it, but Life is Good!

South America Trip - Day 19

Somehow, after all of yesterday's walking, I still woke up at 0545.  I finished packing and left a tip in the room for the nice folks who'd been taking care of me (0700).  I then headed down to the main level.  Last night, I had issues with confirming my flight to Rio.  Fortunately, both Booking.com (website) and GOL Airlines (Facebook Messenger) sent messages to me that helped to sort out the problem.  In the lobby, I was able to thank Mateo and Gonzalo for their services and then paid for my room (0715).  The staff let me store my bags in the lobby while I went to breakfast (cereal, pastries).  The hotel also set up a shuttle for me at 0800 but it didn't arrive on time.  When I checked with Gonzalo on the status, he prompted the driver, who finally showed up at 0815.  After that, I said goodbye to the Ramada and we got on the road towards Aeroparque Jorge Newberry.  I'd learned that Buenos Aires actually has two separate airports (one for domestic and one for international) but I lucked out by getting to use the same one leaving the country as when I'd arrived on December 12.  On the flip side, I remembered (as we drove) that this was the first flight on the trip that I’d scheduled without the help of the USAA Travel agent and it felt a bit risky to be using the airline (GOL)... Still, the weather was beautiful and the taxi ride went relatively smoothly.  As we drove, I started to wish that I had more time in this amazing city - I'll definitely have to return!  The driver dropped me off at the Departures terminal (0835) and I quickly found the GOL desk.  It was mobbed with people and I gradually deduced that there was another (earlier) flight that was being handled.  When I asked about the best thing to do, I was told to wait until exactly three hours before takeoff.  Since this was still about 60 minutes later, I killed time by trying to figure out whether I could get any Argentinian taxes reimbursed.  By the time I eventually found an actual person to assist me, I learned that I couldn’t get money back because I hadn’t done the entire, complex process correctly.  Oh well...  After that, I sat in a chair and watched some guys who were shrink wrapping any bags people had brought (for a fee) - I ended up seeing a lot of hiker backpacks getting “mummified." Just before 0940, I got in a line just outside the official check-in queue and waited for my own flight to be called.  It probably took 20 minutes more before the entire line of passengers for São Paulo was finished and then most of the agents took a 10 minute break (only one stayed behind in case late São Paulo passengers arrived).  At 1015, our own queue finally began to move - I felt fortunate to be near the front and got checked in easily (once again, two pieces of baggage checked for free).  I then navigated my way to the International departure area and proceeded through security (they were quite serious) and Argentina Immigration.  By 1045, I had made it through to the gates and felt a bit better about the way things were going.  I ate a snack in the area near Gate 17 (where my boarding pass said I should be waiting) and used a phone charger nearby.  During this time, I noticed a gentleman with an iPad who was walking nearby and realized I’d seen him at the Buquebus terminal the day before.  It turned out that he was a representative of Argentina’s Tourism Board and he asked me to take a brief survey about my time in Argentina (I obliged him).  At the scheduled boarding time, I noticed that the gate was still completely deserted and decided to check out Gate 20 (a status board showed that was where the flight would be).  I found a huge line of people there and noticed the distinctive orange of the GOL logo nearby. From this point, time seemed to stop...  I noticed many of the same agents here that I’d seen at the check-in counter (small staff?) but no announcements of any kind were made during the next hour.  I actually could see the plane (B737-800) outside the window but nothing happened when the departure came and went.  Eventually, I got the gist of the situation from watching the expressions of others: we’d had a mechanical problem that was needed to be resolved.  Eventually, the agents started checking people in (before the gate even opened) and finally (1300), we were allowed to board. We then managed to get everyone seated and the doors were actually closed (the plane wasn’t completely filled).  At that point, though, I heard announcements in Spanish and Portuguese that the Argentine Federal Police wanted to re-check all of the carry-on bags! With many groans, everyone got their stuff and we started walking up the jetway.  Midway, however, we were told to turn around and return to our seats. I’d only half understood what was happening and tried to get more info from nearby passengers.  In the end, as best I can figure, everyone accepted the random and unexplained disruption with phrases like “it is better not to ask”...  Once on the plane again, there was another delay before a large number of extra passengers arrived.  My guess is that this was partly the source of all the other issues (the airline and security didn’t want to depart with a partially full aircraft).  We finally departed at around 1350.  I had a window seat and got to see some of the northern suburbs of Buenos Aires during the climb out - I’m not 100% sure but I think I also saw Colonia as we crossed the delta if the River Plate.  The only outlets were strange “USB” ports which (again) wouldn’t work for me.  We got snacks on the plane but the flight was otherwise uneventful.  We landed at Galeo Airport in Rio de Janeiro at 1650.  Once I was off the plane, I found that I had a LONG walk to immigration.  Luckily, the line for foreigners was not long.  I retrieved my bags and then proceeded through  customs quite quickly.  My first attempt to get cash initially failed (there was, apparently, a problem with the computer).  Instead, i snaked through a huge Duty Free area.  Once outisde the Security Zone, I started getting harassed by taxi drivers - they followed me all the way through terminal and almost demanded that I used their services.  I managed to find an ATM at 1710 and took out some Reals (first time using my credit card to get cash).  After that, I managed to set up an Uber but then had to find the place where they were waiting.  On the way to that location, I got even more harassment from drivers - wow!  I eventually found my Uber and we left the airport.  By then, it was raining and I discovered that the driver (Vitor) didn’t speak English.  And it was already getting dark!  We made good time from the airport to Copacabana Beach, fortunately.  Along the way, I saw the Christ the Redeemer statue and Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf).  It appeared to be "rush hour" because everywhere we went had busy streets. I was able to chit chat a bit with driver and was impressed by his driving skills - I got lots of evidence that the Rio drivers were crazy...  We arrived at my hotel (Mercure) at around 1815 and I was quite pleased to find that the place was right on the beach (on Avenida Atlantica).  While trying to check in, I had trouble with my credit card initially.  I was also faced with a question about "Real charge versus US dollars" and then discovered that the hotel had own conversion rate - I chose the Real rate and it turned out to be much better in the end.  I actually had to call my bank to sort things out before the card finally worked (1900).  Before going to my room, I talked to the desk staff (Lorena, Guy and “Peter Parker”) about arranging tours (etc.).  After stashing my stuff and changing in to "beach attire", I went downstairs again and went outside to look for a beer.  It was still raining a little bit so I ducked into the first place I found - a little beach bar called Mar de Copa.  By then, it was already dark but I still had a nice view of the sand and palm trees.  I ordered a small glass of Chopp (local Pilsner) that was on Happy Hour special and later got a 600ml Brahma Duplo Malte to go with some fried shrimp.  The waiter was quite nice and we talked about beer, Rio and Miami (his daughter was born there).  The ambience and music were also good and I took my time, relaxing.  I found that my seat location in the bar allowed for some harmless vendor harassment but vowed to do better in choosing a table.  I finally finished up my evening at 2050.  As I was leaving, a guy chased after me on the way out (he called me “Boss”) but I didn’t understand what he wanted so continued across the street.  Once in my hotel room again, I watched some videos on my phone (first time on the trip) until I got sleepy.  Went to bed at 2215.  Really excited to be in this iconic place!

South America Trip - Day 18

Adventure in Uruguay! Before leaving on this trip, I’d discovered that day trips were possible from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, by means of a fast catamaran (Buquebus) that daily crosses the large bay of the Rio de La Plata delta. However, I was hesitant to buy tickets or build plans around such an excursion, mostly because of a concern I didn’t really have enough time while in Buenos Aires. After getting a huge amount of walking yesterday, though, I figured I would give the ferry a chance. First challenge: the Buquebus website was tough to use with an iPhone and gave conflicting information about ticket availability. My friend from the Patagonia trip, Tony, texted that he and Shelly had been unable to get any tickets themselves so were not planning on going to Colonia. I didn’t give up so easily - instead, I went down to the lobby and asked the clerk (Mateo) for help. He was able to find me a round trip ticket that left Buenos Aires at 1215 and returned at 2030. But then I hit the second challenge: when we tried to make the payment online, it didn’t work. At the time, I suspected that it was the website. Mateo suggested that I walk down to the ferry terminal (only six blocks away) and ask for assistance. Before leaving, I got breakfast (cereal, pastries, fruit) in the hotel dining room. Then (0715), I got on my way! The morning weather was completely different than the previous day: it was cool (50s), overcast and breezy. Almost everyone else but me was bundled up for the nasty (for here) weather. After cutting south to Cordoba, I walked straight east to the Buquebus Terminal on the north end of Puerto Madero. When I arrived, the 0830 ferry was loading and it was crazy busy. I asked for some help but no one spoke English. Fortunately, one of the nice ladies working there knew about a large, English-speaking tour group nearby with a bilingual leader. Through their their combined help, I ended up in the correct line. It took a little while to reach the Sales counter so I checked my phone for messages - it was only then that I realized that the earlier charge had been blocked by my bank. Fortunately (again), I was able to validate the vendor and (after one clerk set up my ticket and sent me to the payment center) was ultimately able to get my round trip tickets (0800). The itinerary was called something like a “Tourist” fare (one day, out and back). Relieved that I’d actually been able to complete the process, I next had to kill about two hours. Since walking is usually my thing, I just headed east as far as the road would allow and found a street that abutted the city port (route blocked by security) and a wildlife sanctuary. I followed this street to the south and got to see a lot of interesting birds that were resting in the marshy areas along the Rio de La Plata (the river itself was not visible). After a little while, I turned back to the west and explored the canals and shopping areas of Puerto Madero. Highlights: got photos of the Puente de Las Mujeres (being repaired) and an old sailing ship; looked around inside a McDonalds (they have some different food and “all day” options). By 1000, I’d made it back to the ferry terminal and settled in for what I thought would be a long wait. I picked up some food, in case I couldn’t get lunch later (1025), and charged my phone. Just a little while later, I saw a crowd of people moving towards the Embarkation area and decided to follow. After I snaked through a long queue, a lady scanned my ticket and then handed me a boarding pass and something called a Control Manga. From this area, I had to go to the second floor of the terminal, where I cleared both Argentinian (photo, fingerprint) and Uruguayan (loud stamp in my passport) customs. During this time, I saw the first of several instances during the day when security gave great deference to older persons and mothers - both got to go straight to the head of the line and no one (at all) objected. I also started noticing some fellow Americans - they were easily distinguishable because of their face masks and COVID-19 vaccine cards… After I got through with Immigration, I got to wait in a big room for about an hour. At around 1130, someone must have noticed the Buquebus ferry (“Atlantic III”) coming into the harbor because a wild stampede began to queue into three lines. Of course, I followed the leaders and then got to stand around for another 30 minutes while the catamaran docked. At around 1205, the lines started moving and we all handed one of our slips of paper (Control Manga) to the agents near the entrance of the boarding gate. From there, it was organized chaos through a LONG maze of gangways. When I finally got onboard, I found a store, restaurant and dining area (and bathrooms). The seats looked comfortable but the windows were frosted. Since I already knew we couldn’t stroll around on the deck, I gave up any illusions of taking photos and just tried to find a seat. Most of the good ones were already taken so I sat down in a cushioned seat near a group of families with small children. The ferry departed a bit late (1230) and I settled into my chair to listen to an audiobook. About ten minutes later, a little girl (2 years old) started paying a lot of attention to me. Her mother kept apologizing to me, in Spanish, so I tried to tell her that it was ok because I have three daughters of my own. The few sentences we spoke could have ended the interaction (I apologized for not knowing a lot of Spanish) but the “Dad” of the family arrived shortly afterwards and (after his wife told him I was a dad of three girls) began talking to me in English. It turned out that Marco and Tatiana were financial advisers who split time between Uruguay (Montevideo) and Argentina (each has family in both countries). They often visit the US, mostly to ski, and asked me a lot of questions about my travels. They loved that I had seen so much of Patagonia and insisted that I should consider retiring in Uruguay (“just like all the other people from the US”). The conversion lasted so long that we were docking in Colonia before I knew it (almost an hour and a half had passed since I got on the boat). We debarked quickly (no customs needed) and I soon (1345) found myself in Uruguay! Almost no one spoke English in the terminal but I was able to get a map and instructions about how to find a restaurant that Tatiana had recommended to me (they go there every time they are in Colonia). I walked west from the ferry landing and entered the Barrio Viejo. This town, a Seventeenth Century colony of the Portuguese, was juggled between powers until the Spanish finally got the upper hand in 1777. There are actually homes and other types of buildings from the time of the earliest settlement and parts of the old city walls have been restored to their former greatness. As I started my informal walking tour, it was still cool, breezy and overcast but I was comfortable in my shorts and t-shirt. The ocean looked angry, though… I got a little more information about the town at the Cultural Center and then checked out the old lighthouse (Faro). After that, I proceeded to the El Charco Bistro. On the way, I passed SO many tour huge Brazilian your busses! Once I got inside, I was able to find a young waitress who understood English and settled into my seat at a bar counter that faced the ocean. It was a great view and my mood improved even more when I learned that there was a local craft brewery (Maltik) with some beers on tap. I ended up ordering a Belgian Ale and an Irish Red. For my late lunch (I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast), I tried the house rolls with a tangy olive oil called Coratina - it was good. For my entree, I had the Poke Bowl with salmon, over rice, and lots of veggies. It was amazing and I scarfed it down with chopsticks. To top off the meal, I ate a dessert called “Volcano de Dulce” (melted chocolate and caramel with a side of ice cream). Outstanding meal, overall! When it was time to pay, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to add a tip to my credit card bill (1525). Near the end of the meal, I noticed that a guy my age was sitting nearby and politely smiling whenever I tried to use my Spanish with the waitress. We struck up a conversation and he (Julian) told me he was a contractor with the US CDC (epidemic research) and was always looking for ways to practice his English to improve his job skills. For a little while, we took turns describing our travels in alternating languages. Julian’s English was much better than my Spanish but he thanked me for making the effort. As I was leaving, I asked the waitress where I could go for a good walk along the shore and she pointed me towards a route called Rambla Cristobal Colon. It took a bit of walking to reach it but I used my paper map (I didn’t initially have cell service) as I navigated through streets with large trees over them. The houses of the town were all very colorful and I saw lots of old cars and “community dogs.” I passed a school with kids playing all kinds of outdoor sports and then continued west towards the far end of the cove/harbor - there was supposed to be an old bullfighting ring there and I wanted to see it. Along the way, I noticed (in the distance) the skyline of Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, after only a kilometer of walking, it started to rain. Not wanting to be wet and miserable, I turned around and then walked back to the port. The precipitation must have only been concentrated to the west of me because I never felt any more rain for the rest of the day. I walked through a busy shopping district on the main street and changed some of my Argentinian Pesos into Uruguayan Pesos. Back in the old part of town, I spent a little time near a pretty church and the ruins of the governor’s palace. By about 1730, I felt like I’d seen almost everything of interest (it then made sense that the guy at the Cultural Center had said “Monday, everything is closed”). Backtracking to the old city walls, I used all of the Uruguayan pesos I had (and some Argentinian) to treat myself at a Heladera that claimed to be the best in Colonia (1745). As with most ice cream, I really can’t argue… While I was sitting outside the Heladera, the sun came out and warmed up the town considerably. I watched whole families (of four!) riding around on the cobbled streets in their Vespas and golf carts. It was getting late by the time I finished eating and then the “fun” began again. With a bit of apprehension (that I might not have correctly understood all the procedures for returning to Buenos Aires), I returned to the ferry terminal at 1830. I’d noticed before that there were several companies with ferries coming/going and I wasn’t completely sure which people to emulate! As soon as I saw movement towards the security line, I checked in for my return ride on the Buquebus and proceeded through the immigration checkpoint. Unlike the departure process, there was only one group of officials - my heart sank to realize that I’d probably have a delay for customs when I reached Buenos Aires… In the waiting area, I sat quietly for around an hour until everyone seemed to spring out of their seats and queue up for departure. An older lady nearby was talking in English to some people and I heard her say “that is for the Colonia Express, 2015 Departure, and the Buquebus is behind that - you can relax!” I took her counsel to heart and felt like I was in good hands for making it back to my hotel. Actually, I ended up talking to the lady myself when (after I tried to speak Spanish to her) she determined I was from the US. Like everyone else I’ve met on this trip, she (and others around me) were quite helpful and gave me lots of suggestions for places to see/go in Argentina and Uruguay. I also talked to another English-speaking couple nearby - one of them was on a 10 Week (!!!) vacation. At 2030, my actual departure time, I got into a queue and started towards the loading ramp. Fortunately (yet again), one of the agents verified that I was on Buquebus just before I boarded the wrong ferry. He pointed to another line (not quite as long, luckily) and I sheepishly went to stand in it. At 2045, boarding began for Buquebus (“Atlantic III” again) and I made my way down the gangway to the correct boat. We departed just before 2100 and I relaxed/read as we re-crossed the River. As before, I really didn’t have any chance to take photos out the window (it was dark anyway). However, it was possible to see the bright skyline of Buenos Aires as we approached the city. The ride seemed to go more quickly and we were tied at the pier by around 2150. Only 10 minutes later, I was walking west on Cordoba - the immigration line went quite quickly (thanks to my Spanish!). I reached my hotel quickly (2215) and set up a shuttle to the airport for the following day. Spent another 30 minutes packing and then went to bed (2245). Over 10 miles of walking again - really glad I made the journey across the River Plate today!

South America Trip - Day 17

Full day in Buenos Aires! Afternoon rain was forecasted so I woke up at 0630 with plans to explore as much as possible before it arrived. Prior to today, I’d thought about riding the train to Tigre but then decided I didn’t have enough time to do that, take a ferry on the Rio de La Plata and still see all the major city landmarks listed in my guide book. I got some breakfast (cereal, eggs, pastries and some beet juice) at the hotel (0800) and then went to the lobby to get a few more ideas about areas to see and avoid. By 0830, I departed on my walk - I first headed north (after walking east on Paraguay to the first corner) towards Plaza San Martin (in the Retiro neighborhood). The weather was warm (60s) and a little breezy. I enjoyed having the streets mostly to myself early on a Sunday morning (my friends who are staying across town said that the partying near them didn’t end until 0600!). After getting photos of the liberating hero of Argentina, General San Martin, and some interesting architecture nearby, I started walking west on Avenida Santa Fe. Each block was full of color angst interesting businesses. I was able to keep going, despite crossing many major roads (Avenida 9 de Julio has about 16 lanes!) because the walk signs were mostly in my favor. For most of this excursion, I only referenced my paper map and the compass on my phone. With these tools, I easily reached Plaza Vicente Lopez y Planes, on the edge of the Barrio Norte neighborhood. There was an amazingly large tree in that park and, around it, a maze of roads that “spoked” outwards in every direction. So I checked my phone for navigation towards the Recoleta Cemetery. I eventually decided to use Avenida Gen. Las Hures and it took me most of the way there; at Junin, I saw the first signs of a high wall and walked in that direction. Arriving at 0915, I figured out how to buy a ticket (0915) and entered the expansive cemetery. Like I’d seen when I toured a similar place in Punta Arenas (on this trip), the families of Buenos Aires care so much about their deceased loved ones that they have gone “all out” in building monuments to them. Every mausoleum was stunning! Of course, the biggest and best had been made for the city’s (and country’s) elite: politicians, military leaders, doctors, lawyers, etc. I really didn’t know who many of these people were but walked on nearly every pathway (for almost an hour). Towards the end, I managed to locate the burial vault of “Evita” (Eva Duarte Peron); it was strewn with flowers and I had to wait behind a huge team of Futbol players to reach it. Satisfied I’d found the highlight of the cemetery, I departed to the north. On the way, I passed the Basilica Nuestra Senora de Pilar and noticed they had just started Mass. Since this seemed like a fortunate bit of timing, I joined in (and mostly followed through the Liturgy). At 1045, I left the church and continued north again, strolling through a sea of vendors who were setting up their little shops (the market looked like it would be HUGE). I soon found myself in Feria Artesanal Intendente Alvear, which (after walking a bit farther) helped me reach the Plaza Francia. On the way to Avenida Pres. Figueroa Alcorta, I passed the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and, a bit later, the Plaza Libres del Sud (it had a giant statue of a flower that was called “Floralis Generica”). I then walked to the northwest and passed through pretty groves of Jacaranda trees (with their pretty purple blossoms). Before long, I reached the MALBA (famous museum) and decided that I needed to turn west towards the Palermo neighborhood. At about that time, I noticed a huge line forming at the entrance to Jardín Japonés. This place was listed as a “Top 10” attraction in my guidebook so I paid the small fee to explore it (1115). For about an hour, I explored several pretty gardens and gardens - the place brought back happy memories of my visits to Japan… After leaving, I decided to try to find Plaza Italia (and look for lunch) and walked west on several side streets until I found Avenida Gen. Las Hures again. By now, my legs were getting tired and I hoped to rest. Unfortunately, the only thing I found at Plaza Italia was an area with huge green parks (i.e., no restaurants). I was going to turn around but I noticed that everyone was going inside one of the parks without paying. Following them, I found myself in the city’s old Zoo - it was recently converted into an “Eco Park”. I spent a little time exploring the place, noting several instances of statues and enclosures that belied the park’s former life. However, there were very few animal residents left - I did see peacocks, several kinds of birds, little monkeys and a few Patagonian Maras (cat-sized rodents). Since the vendors in the park only took cash (and I was short), I sat for a short time and ate an apple I’d brought. By now, the temps were in the high 70s but the rain had not appeared. Earlier, I’d thought about taking the Subway back towards my hotel (I was almost four miles away) but now it seemed possible to walk. Leaving the park, I spent the next hour crisscrossing the northern parts of Palermo and Barrio Norte (between Avenida del Liberator and Avenida Gen. Las Hures). I visited several small parks, enjoyed a mix of architectural styles and meandered towards the hotel. I passed a Heladera called “Chungo” that had a Visa (credit card) sign in the window - buying two scoops of gelato there (chocolate and lemon) really made my day (1315)! Since I’d missed seeing the Teatro Colon the previous day, I started a meandering path towards the southeast from Chungo. This walk took me through a large tourist shopping district (mostly stores and restaurants from the USA) and into Plaza Lavalle. The Teatro Colon was a massive architectural masterpiece and I hoped to be able to tour the interior. However, I learned that there were no more tours in English for the day and there was very little lighting anyway (they were doing maintenance). A bit disappointed, I reluctantly crossed Avenida 9 de Julio and made my way back to my hotel. In the lobby, I talked briefly with the clerk (Gonzalo) about a place where I could get dinner if it started raining. He recommended a place nearby and I then (1445) went to my room to rest. My pedometer said that I’d covered over 10 miles! It occurred to me that I’d felt quite safe throughout the day - the large number of police officers I’d seen probably made a difference. For the next few hours, I stayed off my feet and entertained myself with blogging and reading. At 1830, I left the hotel and walked about a block (through light sprinkles) to the restaurant recommended by Gonzalo: Parilla Cero5 (highly rated Asado). It was a small place and, even at the early hour, was quite busy. There was actually only one table available (for four) but I managed to snag it before anyone else saw it. It took a little while but my server (who looked swamped) eventually came unto take my order. Actually, he first apologized for the delay and I told him I was in no rush. This seemed to make him (he told me his name was Juan) happy and we shared a few laughs during the rest of the evening. Since I hadn’t really eaten a lot since breakfast, I ordered the Matrimonio (a cirrizzo and a black sausage) and mashed potatoes. To wash it down, I ordered a “grande” Quilmes Clasica (Argentinian beer). When Juan returned with the bottle, I was startled to see that it was a full Liter! Undeterred, I kept it at the table and spent over an hour trying to finish it (I couldn’t). The ambiance was nice, the food was good and Juan was an excellent (and VERY popular/busy) server. He explained some of the tipping rules (it can’t be added to a credit card charge and subsequently is considered, even by the waiters, as being optional) and shared some colloquial phrases used in Buenos Aires. I was finished at about 2000, paid (2000) and walked back (through steady drizzle) to the Wyndham. Spent the rest of the evening reading and prepping for a new adventure tomorrow. I’m still tired from all the walking I did but my Active Adventures friends (Tony and Shelly) asked me to join them on an excursion to Uruguay!

South America Trip - Day 16

Last day with the Active Adventures Group... I was awake by 0530 and did some more packing.  At 0715, went down to eat breakfast (cereal, eggs, meat, cheese, bread) with everyone else.  People started to leave (Alvaro first, then Kirk & Janice) soon after that.  Shaowen told me he couldn't pay for the coke he’d bought me the night before because the credit card machine was broken so I settled up with Rafael using the last of my Argentinian Pesos (0730).  Back in the dining area, I chatted with Tony & Shelly about life in the Plains States and family histories.  While we were still sitting there, Rafael helped people in two different groups celebrate their birthdays (music, cake with candles).  At around 0800, I went back to my room to rest until check out (1000).  When it was finally time to leave the Patagonia Queen Hotel, I returned to the lobby and hung out with Joanne and the eight people who had the same flight as me.  By 1030, Mariano had returned to the hotel and helped us load our stuff in his van.  We then drove to the El Calafate Airport.  The weather great again (50s) - we sure have been spoiled in Patagonia!  At the terminal, I was unloading my bag from the van when I realized that my suitcase wheels and zippers might be starting to fail - uh oh...  Inside, there was only one line - it was big but moving well - and it wasn’t difficult to figure out where to go.  When it was my turn to check in for my Aerolineas Argentinas flight (1100), things went much better than I’d expected.  Bottom line: I must have packed well because I was able to check both bags (one about 16 kg and the other 4 kg) and didn’t have to pay any extra fees.  Meanwhile, the big family group from New Mexico was forced to get into another line to pay (heavily) for their overweight luggage.  Meanwhile, I made my way (very quickly) through the security checkpoint and stopped at a small store to get some drinking water (1110).  A bit later, I found a charging station for my phone and got it back close to 100%.  This was important because the battery, which was showing signs of age before I left, has been draining even more quickly during the last few days.  I'd been a bit worried about connecting to the outlets in Argentina (220 VAC) but Tony had told me that my iPhone would be alright (he was correct).  By 1200, boarding commenced for our flight (B737-800 aircraft).  The queue was organized in four zones and my seat was in the last one.  In the end, the line moved slowly but pretty efficiently...  Along the way, I enjoyed watching a little girl with her grandpa getting royal treatment from the flight crew (I think it was her first flight).  Aboard the plane, I found myself three seats deep in a window seat - there was very little leg room.  We took off on time (1235) and departed El Calafate towards the north, across the Lago Argentino.  This provided us with spectacular views of all the peaks nearby (even as far away as Fitz Roy) before the cloud cover hid everything.  Throughout the flight, the crew made several multilingual announcements and this was helpful.  Lunch was snacks (nuts and yogurt bar).  Meanwhile, I spent most of the flight fidgeting in my seat, reading my Buenos Aires guide book and listening to part of an audiobook.  In the middle of the flight, we all joined in on a birthday celebration for someone who was turning 49 (that seemed to be a big milestone in Argentina).  At 1515, we began our approach to Buenos Aires (landing towards the southeast at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) and were treated to a wonderful view of the Rio de la Plata Delta and northwest suburbs of the city.  By 1545, we were at the gate.  Outside, it was clearly more warm and humid than I’ve seen for weeks and I was glad I’d worn a short sleeved shirt.  It took a while to reach the baggage claim area and then the process took longer than I’d hoped (start/stop).  After I got my stuff, I said goodbye to the other Active Adventures folks and started looking for a ride to my hotel. I’d initially tried to coordinate with my hotel (Ramada by Wyndham near Plaza San Martin) about a shuttle but learned it would cost over $30.  Instead, I decided to use the taxi fare calculator - there was a special QR code on the wall near the taxi stand that allowed visitors to pre-coordinate a fare with the drivers.  This produced a much more reasonable $15-$20 cost (complete with receipt).  At 1630, I made my way into the queue and ended up having to help some other English speakers to complete the process (I guess things aren't easy for the the internet challenged or iPhone illiterate).  Soon, I was in my taxi.  My driver was named Jorge and he didn’t speak a lot of English - I had to dig really deep to communicate with my limited Spanish.  Somehow, we had a great conversation about hiking, Patagonia, Iguazu, Buenos Aires and other Argentinian past times.  He got me to the hotel by 1655 and and I easily checked in (1700).  I was surprised to have a porter who wanted to assist me to my room (1715) - I took advantage of this perk and asked him to show me how to work the safe and find other items.  After quickly changing into "exploring" clothes, I went down to the lobby again and spoke with the clerk (Mateo) about safety of the neighborhood, breakfast, snacks & drinks in the room, Mass time for the church across the street and other sights.  He gave me a good map and lots of helpful advice.  After that, I proceeded west on Paraguay.  When I reached Avenida 9 de Julio, I walked south.  When I reached the Obelisk, I took lots of photos (and a video) of a joyous drum and dancing celebration.  While there, I was asked several questions by folks nearby and sheepishly had to admit that I didn’t speak Spanish very well. Nearby, I attempted to figure out how to use the Subway but, when I went down under the street, it was too difficult to understand without additional assistance.  Maybe tomorrow I can try again!  Back on street level, I took Avenida Pres. Roque Sáenz Peña and immediately found myself in the middle of an Empanada Festival.  Not feeling hungry yet, I didn’t buy any but stayed in the area so I could watch the cooks, vendors and crowds enjoying themselves.  I also texted Tony and Shelly about it (they were staying in another hotel nearby) and they later replied that they'd been there earlier in the afternoon.  At Plaza de Mayo, I got lots of photos (including one of General Belgrano and the Argentinian flag he’d created) and marveled at the architecture.  A highlight was examining the Pink House.  There were signs in several places with maps of the entire country that gave unmistakable signs that Portenos consider the Malvinas/Falklands to be part of Argentina.  I definitely did NOT ask questions or make comments about this...  Making my way further east, I reached the canal in Puerto Madero.  Exploring nearby, I found a restaurant (Happening) that appeared to be open for dinner - that was nice, because it was only 1830 and I'd expected to have to wait.  On the patio in the back of the restaurant, I sat down to eat and enjoyed a bottle of Malbec (2020 Zorzal Terroir Unico), various breads, Empanada Caseras Fritas and Rigatoni ‘Nduja.  While I was eating, the sun went down and I enjoyed the transition to cooler temps.  From my table, I was able to see lots of people on the boardwalk and, nearby, a tall, black and white bird (black crowned night heron?) fishing near the docks.  Mollie called and we talked for a while (it's nice to have such reliable AT&T International service!).  When I was finished (2005), I was disappointed that I couldn’t leave a tip on my credit card.  Since I didn't have any Argentinian pesos, I was a bit embarrassed.  However, it couldn't be helped...  Afterwards, I walked north and a bit west until I found the ferry landing for the Buquebus - I'm still hoping to use this boat to reach Uruguay.  Along the way, I overshot Paraguay and had to make my way (via zig-zag) back to my hotel.  This turned out to be a fortunate accident, however, because I encountered a kind of “Salsa Rave” as I was walking.  I stopped a while to watch the dancing and take in the sounds.  After one of the bands finished their set, I wandered further west and found lots of nice places to eat, drink and shop.  These places were quite near my hotel, which gave me the impression that I'd made a good choice.  In the lobby of the Ramada again (2045), I found a HUGE group of people checking into their rooms.  The clerk (Mateo) recognized me and asked about my excursion (I thanked him for the great advice).  Later, I had a problem with my key and had to make another trip to the lobby via the slow, tiny elevator - the stairs were closed except for emergencies.  Being on the 5th floor isn’t easy...  Back in my room, I relaxed and listened to my audio book until it was time for bed (2200).  With the hiking / biking / kayaking part of my trip complete, I'm going to have to find new ways to make sure I get exercise.  Fortunately, there is always walking...  More exploring tomorrow!