South America Trip - Day 17

Full day in Buenos Aires! Afternoon rain was forecasted so I woke up at 0630 with plans to explore as much as possible before it arrived. Prior to today, I’d thought about riding the train to Tigre but then decided I didn’t have enough time to do that, take a ferry on the Rio de La Plata and still see all the major city landmarks listed in my guide book. I got some breakfast (cereal, eggs, pastries and some beet juice) at the hotel (0800) and then went to the lobby to get a few more ideas about areas to see and avoid. By 0830, I departed on my walk - I first headed north (after walking east on Paraguay to the first corner) towards Plaza San Martin (in the Retiro neighborhood). The weather was warm (60s) and a little breezy. I enjoyed having the streets mostly to myself early on a Sunday morning (my friends who are staying across town said that the partying near them didn’t end until 0600!). After getting photos of the liberating hero of Argentina, General San Martin, and some interesting architecture nearby, I started walking west on Avenida Santa Fe. Each block was full of color angst interesting businesses. I was able to keep going, despite crossing many major roads (Avenida 9 de Julio has about 16 lanes!) because the walk signs were mostly in my favor. For most of this excursion, I only referenced my paper map and the compass on my phone. With these tools, I easily reached Plaza Vicente Lopez y Planes, on the edge of the Barrio Norte neighborhood. There was an amazingly large tree in that park and, around it, a maze of roads that “spoked” outwards in every direction. So I checked my phone for navigation towards the Recoleta Cemetery. I eventually decided to use Avenida Gen. Las Hures and it took me most of the way there; at Junin, I saw the first signs of a high wall and walked in that direction. Arriving at 0915, I figured out how to buy a ticket (0915) and entered the expansive cemetery. Like I’d seen when I toured a similar place in Punta Arenas (on this trip), the families of Buenos Aires care so much about their deceased loved ones that they have gone “all out” in building monuments to them. Every mausoleum was stunning! Of course, the biggest and best had been made for the city’s (and country’s) elite: politicians, military leaders, doctors, lawyers, etc. I really didn’t know who many of these people were but walked on nearly every pathway (for almost an hour). Towards the end, I managed to locate the burial vault of “Evita” (Eva Duarte Peron); it was strewn with flowers and I had to wait behind a huge team of Futbol players to reach it. Satisfied I’d found the highlight of the cemetery, I departed to the north. On the way, I passed the Basilica Nuestra Senora de Pilar and noticed they had just started Mass. Since this seemed like a fortunate bit of timing, I joined in (and mostly followed through the Liturgy). At 1045, I left the church and continued north again, strolling through a sea of vendors who were setting up their little shops (the market looked like it would be HUGE). I soon found myself in Feria Artesanal Intendente Alvear, which (after walking a bit farther) helped me reach the Plaza Francia. On the way to Avenida Pres. Figueroa Alcorta, I passed the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and, a bit later, the Plaza Libres del Sud (it had a giant statue of a flower that was called “Floralis Generica”). I then walked to the northwest and passed through pretty groves of Jacaranda trees (with their pretty purple blossoms). Before long, I reached the MALBA (famous museum) and decided that I needed to turn west towards the Palermo neighborhood. At about that time, I noticed a huge line forming at the entrance to Jardín Japonés. This place was listed as a “Top 10” attraction in my guidebook so I paid the small fee to explore it (1115). For about an hour, I explored several pretty gardens and gardens - the place brought back happy memories of my visits to Japan… After leaving, I decided to try to find Plaza Italia (and look for lunch) and walked west on several side streets until I found Avenida Gen. Las Hures again. By now, my legs were getting tired and I hoped to rest. Unfortunately, the only thing I found at Plaza Italia was an area with huge green parks (i.e., no restaurants). I was going to turn around but I noticed that everyone was going inside one of the parks without paying. Following them, I found myself in the city’s old Zoo - it was recently converted into an “Eco Park”. I spent a little time exploring the place, noting several instances of statues and enclosures that belied the park’s former life. However, there were very few animal residents left - I did see peacocks, several kinds of birds, little monkeys and a few Patagonian Maras (cat-sized rodents). Since the vendors in the park only took cash (and I was short), I sat for a short time and ate an apple I’d brought. By now, the temps were in the high 70s but the rain had not appeared. Earlier, I’d thought about taking the Subway back towards my hotel (I was almost four miles away) but now it seemed possible to walk. Leaving the park, I spent the next hour crisscrossing the northern parts of Palermo and Barrio Norte (between Avenida del Liberator and Avenida Gen. Las Hures). I visited several small parks, enjoyed a mix of architectural styles and meandered towards the hotel. I passed a Heladera called “Chungo” that had a Visa (credit card) sign in the window - buying two scoops of gelato there (chocolate and lemon) really made my day (1315)! Since I’d missed seeing the Teatro Colon the previous day, I started a meandering path towards the southeast from Chungo. This walk took me through a large tourist shopping district (mostly stores and restaurants from the USA) and into Plaza Lavalle. The Teatro Colon was a massive architectural masterpiece and I hoped to be able to tour the interior. However, I learned that there were no more tours in English for the day and there was very little lighting anyway (they were doing maintenance). A bit disappointed, I reluctantly crossed Avenida 9 de Julio and made my way back to my hotel. In the lobby, I talked briefly with the clerk (Gonzalo) about a place where I could get dinner if it started raining. He recommended a place nearby and I then (1445) went to my room to rest. My pedometer said that I’d covered over 10 miles! It occurred to me that I’d felt quite safe throughout the day - the large number of police officers I’d seen probably made a difference. For the next few hours, I stayed off my feet and entertained myself with blogging and reading. At 1830, I left the hotel and walked about a block (through light sprinkles) to the restaurant recommended by Gonzalo: Parilla Cero5 (highly rated Asado). It was a small place and, even at the early hour, was quite busy. There was actually only one table available (for four) but I managed to snag it before anyone else saw it. It took a little while but my server (who looked swamped) eventually came unto take my order. Actually, he first apologized for the delay and I told him I was in no rush. This seemed to make him (he told me his name was Juan) happy and we shared a few laughs during the rest of the evening. Since I hadn’t really eaten a lot since breakfast, I ordered the Matrimonio (a cirrizzo and a black sausage) and mashed potatoes. To wash it down, I ordered a “grande” Quilmes Clasica (Argentinian beer). When Juan returned with the bottle, I was startled to see that it was a full Liter! Undeterred, I kept it at the table and spent over an hour trying to finish it (I couldn’t). The ambiance was nice, the food was good and Juan was an excellent (and VERY popular/busy) server. He explained some of the tipping rules (it can’t be added to a credit card charge and subsequently is considered, even by the waiters, as being optional) and shared some colloquial phrases used in Buenos Aires. I was finished at about 2000, paid (2000) and walked back (through steady drizzle) to the Wyndham. Spent the rest of the evening reading and prepping for a new adventure tomorrow. I’m still tired from all the walking I did but my Active Adventures friends (Tony and Shelly) asked me to join them on an excursion to Uruguay!