Saturday, November 12, 2022
South America Trip - Day 16
Last day with the Active Adventures Group... I was awake by 0530 and did some more packing. At 0715, went down to eat breakfast (cereal, eggs, meat, cheese, bread) with everyone else. People started to leave (Alvaro first, then Kirk & Janice) soon after that. Shaowen told me he couldn't pay for the coke he’d bought me the night before because the credit card machine was broken so I settled up with Rafael using the last of my Argentinian Pesos (0730). Back in the dining area, I chatted with Tony & Shelly about life in the Plains States and family histories. While we were still sitting there, Rafael helped people in two different groups celebrate their birthdays (music, cake with candles). At around 0800, I went back to my room to rest until check out (1000). When it was finally time to leave the Patagonia Queen Hotel, I returned to the lobby and hung out with Joanne and the eight people who had the same flight as me. By 1030, Mariano had returned to the hotel and helped us load our stuff in his van. We then drove to the El Calafate Airport. The weather great again (50s) - we sure have been spoiled in Patagonia! At the terminal, I was unloading my bag from the van when I realized that my suitcase wheels and zippers might be starting to fail - uh oh... Inside, there was only one line - it was big but moving well - and it wasn’t difficult to figure out where to go. When it was my turn to check in for my Aerolineas Argentinas flight (1100), things went much better than I’d expected. Bottom line: I must have packed well because I was able to check both bags (one about 16 kg and the other 4 kg) and didn’t have to pay any extra fees. Meanwhile, the big family group from New Mexico was forced to get into another line to pay (heavily) for their overweight luggage. Meanwhile, I made my way (very quickly) through the security checkpoint and stopped at a small store to get some drinking water (1110). A bit later, I found a charging station for my phone and got it back close to 100%. This was important because the battery, which was showing signs of age before I left, has been draining even more quickly during the last few days. I'd been a bit worried about connecting to the outlets in Argentina (220 VAC) but Tony had told me that my iPhone would be alright (he was correct). By 1200, boarding commenced for our flight (B737-800 aircraft). The queue was organized in four zones and my seat was in the last one. In the end, the line moved slowly but pretty efficiently... Along the way, I enjoyed watching a little girl with her grandpa getting royal treatment from the flight crew (I think it was her first flight). Aboard the plane, I found myself three seats deep in a window seat - there was very little leg room. We took off on time (1235) and departed El Calafate towards the north, across the Lago Argentino. This provided us with spectacular views of all the peaks nearby (even as far away as Fitz Roy) before the cloud cover hid everything. Throughout the flight, the crew made several multilingual announcements and this was helpful. Lunch was snacks (nuts and yogurt bar). Meanwhile, I spent most of the flight fidgeting in my seat, reading my Buenos Aires guide book and listening to part of an audiobook. In the middle of the flight, we all joined in on a birthday celebration for someone who was turning 49 (that seemed to be a big milestone in Argentina). At 1515, we began our approach to Buenos Aires (landing towards the southeast at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) and were treated to a wonderful view of the Rio de la Plata Delta and northwest suburbs of the city. By 1545, we were at the gate. Outside, it was clearly more warm and humid than I’ve seen for weeks and I was glad I’d worn a short sleeved shirt. It took a while to reach the baggage claim area and then the process took longer than I’d hoped (start/stop). After I got my stuff, I said goodbye to the other Active Adventures folks and started looking for a ride to my hotel. I’d initially tried to coordinate with my hotel (Ramada by Wyndham near Plaza San Martin) about a shuttle but learned it would cost over $30. Instead, I decided to use the taxi fare calculator - there was a special QR code on the wall near the taxi stand that allowed visitors to pre-coordinate a fare with the drivers. This produced a much more reasonable $15-$20 cost (complete with receipt). At 1630, I made my way into the queue and ended up having to help some other English speakers to complete the process (I guess things aren't easy for the the internet challenged or iPhone illiterate). Soon, I was in my taxi. My driver was named Jorge and he didn’t speak a lot of English - I had to dig really deep to communicate with my limited Spanish. Somehow, we had a great conversation about hiking, Patagonia, Iguazu, Buenos Aires and other Argentinian past times. He got me to the hotel by 1655 and and I easily checked in (1700). I was surprised to have a porter who wanted to assist me to my room (1715) - I took advantage of this perk and asked him to show me how to work the safe and find other items. After quickly changing into "exploring" clothes, I went down to the lobby again and spoke with the clerk (Mateo) about safety of the neighborhood, breakfast, snacks & drinks in the room, Mass time for the church across the street and other sights. He gave me a good map and lots of helpful advice. After that, I proceeded west on Paraguay. When I reached Avenida 9 de Julio, I walked south. When I reached the Obelisk, I took lots of photos (and a video) of a joyous drum and dancing celebration. While there, I was asked several questions by folks nearby and sheepishly had to admit that I didn’t speak Spanish very well. Nearby, I attempted to figure out how to use the Subway but, when I went down under the street, it was too difficult to understand without additional assistance. Maybe tomorrow I can try again! Back on street level, I took Avenida Pres. Roque Sáenz Peña and immediately found myself in the middle of an Empanada Festival. Not feeling hungry yet, I didn’t buy any but stayed in the area so I could watch the cooks, vendors and crowds enjoying themselves. I also texted Tony and Shelly about it (they were staying in another hotel nearby) and they later replied that they'd been there earlier in the afternoon. At Plaza de Mayo, I got lots of photos (including one of General Belgrano and the Argentinian flag he’d created) and marveled at the architecture. A highlight was examining the Pink House. There were signs in several places with maps of the entire country that gave unmistakable signs that Portenos consider the Malvinas/Falklands to be part of Argentina. I definitely did NOT ask questions or make comments about this... Making my way further east, I reached the canal in Puerto Madero. Exploring nearby, I found a restaurant (Happening) that appeared to be open for dinner - that was nice, because it was only 1830 and I'd expected to have to wait. On the patio in the back of the restaurant, I sat down to eat and enjoyed a bottle of Malbec (2020 Zorzal Terroir Unico), various breads, Empanada Caseras Fritas and Rigatoni ‘Nduja. While I was eating, the sun went down and I enjoyed the transition to cooler temps. From my table, I was able to see lots of people on the boardwalk and, nearby, a tall, black and white bird (black crowned night heron?) fishing near the docks. Mollie called and we talked for a while (it's nice to have such reliable AT&T International service!). When I was finished (2005), I was disappointed that I couldn’t leave a tip on my credit card. Since I didn't have any Argentinian pesos, I was a bit embarrassed. However, it couldn't be helped... Afterwards, I walked north and a bit west until I found the ferry landing for the Buquebus - I'm still hoping to use this boat to reach Uruguay. Along the way, I overshot Paraguay and had to make my way (via zig-zag) back to my hotel. This turned out to be a fortunate accident, however, because I encountered a kind of “Salsa Rave” as I was walking. I stopped a while to watch the dancing and take in the sounds. After one of the bands finished their set, I wandered further west and found lots of nice places to eat, drink and shop. These places were quite near my hotel, which gave me the impression that I'd made a good choice. In the lobby of the Ramada again (2045), I found a HUGE group of people checking into their rooms. The clerk (Mateo) recognized me and asked about my excursion (I thanked him for the great advice). Later, I had a problem with my key and had to make another trip to the lobby via the slow, tiny elevator - the stairs were closed except for emergencies. Being on the 5th floor isn’t easy... Back in my room, I relaxed and listened to my audio book until it was time for bed (2200). With the hiking / biking / kayaking part of my trip complete, I'm going to have to find new ways to make sure I get exercise. Fortunately, there is always walking... More exploring tomorrow!