Adirondacks Trip - Day 5

Finally, I got the best sleep of the week!  I woke up at 0615 and teleworked all morning, taking a short break at 0745 to eat breakfast in the hotel lobby. Eileen called at one point and asked if I could meet her for lunch in Canton in the afternoon.  I agreed but also asked if I could walk Mika again (she agreed).  There were no work meetings planned all day so it was kind of slow.  At 1130, I departed the hotel and drove to Eileen's to pick up Mika (Heidi and I coordinated in advance).  I then drove her to the opposite side of the Raquette River, parking at the Bayside Cemetery. From there, we walked a loop around the near the river.  It was VERY windy and cold!  We found the Munter Trail again and used it to reach US-11.  Backtracked to the car (still cold and windy) and ended up logging just over two miles of walking.  Next, I drove Mika back to Eileen's (1245).  By this point, Eileen had contacted me to request that we not do lunch and instead meet for coffee later in the afternoon.  As a result, I returned to my hotel for some lunch (leftovers).  Mollie called and we talked a little while.  At around 1315, I left the hotel and drove to Canton.  I arrived at the Brewer Bookstore (on the St. Lawrence University Campus) at 1330 and spent the next hour visiting with Eileen near their fireplace.  Finished up at 1430 and, after walking with her to her office, returned to my hotel and resumed teleworking.  At 1700, I finished my work day and drove to the parking lot for the Cactus Grill.  It was still quite cold but I was able to get in the rest of my walking (10K steps) nearby.  By 1800, I was seated at the bar and ordered dinner (a combo platter of enchiladas and a margarita).  The atmosphere was good and the food was too.  After getting finished (1845), I drove back to the hotel and called Erin - this time, we were able to talk for about 45 minutes.  For the rest of the evening, I watched movies and read.  Feeling quite bored (and a bit deflated after trying to coordinate with Eileen all week), I went to sleep rather early (2130).  It looks like leaving tomorrow will be a good idea - we'll see how things play out for work and the cost of extending my stay for Eileen's "maybe" suggestions...

Adirondacks Trip - Day 4

During the night, I was wide awake at 0200 but managed to fall back to sleep.  As a result, I didn't wake up for real until 0615 - started teleworking immediately.  Once again, I ate breakfast in the hotel lobby (0745) and then did some more teleworking.  At 1100, I departed the hotel and found a place to park for the Munter Trail (west side of the Raquette River on Clarkson Campus).  I walked there for a little while - it was windy and overcast but not cold.  Along the way, I met a professional photographer (he gave me his card) and we talked for a while.  After I continued south, it started to rain.  However, I continued walking and made it almost to the Bayside Cemetery before I turned around.  In the end, I got about a mile of walking in before I had to give up.  Next, I drove north on NY-56 to get lunch (to go) at Taco Bell (1205).  Returned to my hotel and teleworked for the rest of the afternoon.  Meanwhile, it continued raining.  Fortunately, I had a meeting at 1500 and that kept me busy until after 1600.  Since the weather was still nasty by the time my work day ended, I went to Walmart and walked around inside until I'd gotten all my steps.  After that, I drove over to Mama Lucia's for dinner (1700).  They had some interesting beers (including Bitburger) and my dinner was spaghetti with a HUGE meatball.  There was so much on the plate that I couldn't finish it!  While there, I learned about the family that owns the restaurant and others in town (including Maxfields).  During this window, Eileen called and told me she was busy until very late.  When she mentioned she hadn't had time to make plans for dinner (for her son, daughter and houseguest, Roger), I decided to surprise her with a food delivery.  With help from Heidi, I ended up getting Chinese takeout from Asian Buffet & Mongolian (1825) and taking it to Eileen's house.  By that time, the wind and snow was quite strong that I had to drive carefully.  I arrived at around 1840 and found a lot of people there (including Steve and Aviva).  Had intended to depart after dropping off the food but Scott asked me to stay.  Ended up hanging around for over an hour, talking with the adults and playing card games with Heidi and Scott.  At 2000, Roger suggested that everyone start watching a movie ("The China Syndrome") but I declined (had already seen it and thought it was depressing).  Also, I'd heard from Erin that she wanted to talk to me.  As a result, I went back to the hotel.  On the way, I saw an amazing show of lightning to the southwest - yikes.  In my room again, I tried to have a call with Erin but this didn't work out and I ended up watching movies and reading until bed time (2215).  Strange day, overall, but I'm definitely getting more familiar with Potsdam...

Adirondacks Trip - Day 3

After a relatively good sleep, I was up at 0515 and started teleworking at 0530. Eileen called at 0715 and we tried to work around her work stuff to make concrete plans.  We were not successful but I convinced her to let me take her dog (Mika) for a walk during the lunch hour.  Next, I took a break for breakfast in the hotel lobby (0800).  Afterwards, I kept busy with my job, despite having no meetings, all morning.  At 1130, I left the Scottish Inn and drove to Eileen's to pick up Mika so we could go for a walk.  I drove her to Hannawa Falls and I took her all the way from the Fire Station (trailhead) to the Sugar Island trailhead parking lot.  We played catch, practiced commands (for me) and generally had fun.  By the end, we'd walked close to four miles total (the last half on the road) and Mika seemed happy with all the exercise.  Also, it seemed like a Spring day (50s, river thawed, some patches of ice but mostly mud).  I dropped Mika off at Eileen's and then drove north on NY-56 to get some lunch at Arby's (1325).  Next, I returned to the hotel and continued teleworking until almost 1700.  Following up on an earlier offer I'd received from Eileen's daughter (Heidi), I was planning to go get Mika for another walk.  By then, however, she'd left for one with family and friends.  Instead, I drove to Eben's Hearth again and did the "2-4-2-sday" big beer challenge (mug club) again (also got an appetizer).  There were lots of Clarkson students hanging out there and I learned more about the Mug Club (done by school year).  Tried a "Lunchbox" cocktail (Coors, OJ, Southern Comfort and amaretto).  Done socializing at 1755, I returned to hotel and joined an webinar (for Connecticut River Conservancy) that was scheduled from 1800 to 1900.  Brenna called during this Zoom meeting (effectively ending it for me) and we ended up talking for 90 minutes.  After that, I went to Walmart to get some new sunglasses (the old ones had been crushed when I went skiing with my dad and I'd been unable to repair them). While there, I finished walking (inside/outside) my 10K steps (done at 2015).  Back at the hotel, I watched some movies and did some reading.  Went to bed at 2200.  Hope the weather is just as nice tomorrow!

Adirondacks Trip - Day 2

I slept OK and was out of bed by 0530 - started teleworking immediately.  I ate breakfast in the hotel lobby (0730) and then had several meetings.  For the rest of the morning, I continued playing "catch up" after my last few weeks away.  At lunch time, I went to the Clarkson Forest for a walk - before I was done, I also explored a bit on the campus.  On the way back to the hotel, I stopped for some lunch (to go) at KFC (1245).  In my room again, I did more teleworking until I was finished with my work day (1530).  I'd hoped to have some plans to see Eileen by that point but she informed me she was busy with late work meetings. After getting ready for some time outdoors, I left my hotel and headed to Higley Flow State Park.  I'd already heard that the conditions were no longer good for skiing and this sad reality was confirmed when I arrived (1550).  Undeterred, I walked (with micro-spikes) through most of the trail system between (1550 and 1650).  Temps were in the 40s so, even though there was still snow in places, it would have been a mistake to try to ski.  Oh well...  Afterwards, I backtracked towards the hotel and ended up in a long text conversation with Eileen.  This began when I regained cell signal but I wasn't able to respond until I was back in my room (1730).  She told me she had so many things going on that she was unlikely to be able see me much during the week.  By the time we were done communicating, I had lost the motivation to go out for dinner.  Instead, I staying in my room all evening, reading, watching movies on my phone.  Ended up going to bed early (2145).  It looks like I'll need to plan to entertain myself until my hotel room reservation ends on Friday morning...

Adirondacks Trip - Day 1

I'd arranged to visit Eileen in Potsdam again before I even left for Antarctica and the trip kind of sneaked up on me.  In an effort to try to leave early this morning, I'd stayed up late (getting ready).  As a result, I was able to get everything packed up in my car by 0830.  I wanted to go to Mass before leaving town so drove to Norwich to attend a service (0900) at St. Francis of Assisi (my first time at that Parish).  By 0945, I was on the road - I used I-91 to reach I-89 and then drove all the way to VT-14.  Used that road to reach VT-107 and then drove on Blackmer Boulevard all the way to VT-125.  On the way, I ate "breakfast" (snacks) and listened to audiobooks.  I continued driving until I reached the Middlebury College Rikert Outdoor Center (1050).  After finding a place to park (tough), I went inside the "clubhouse" and bought a pass for the trails (1055) - got a discount for retired military!  It was a beautiful day for some cross country skiing!  The course at the Outdoor Center was well groomed, with only a bit of grass showing in well worn places.  Between 1110 and 1310, I explored about half of the trails and only fell once, on some patchy ice on a hill (2 hours of skiing, 4 total miles).  Met some nice people while I was making my way around the place - it was quite an enjoyable experience.  Even though the temps were in the 20s, there was no breeze.  End result: perfect! (2 hours, 4 miles).  Back in my car, I ate lunch (snacks) and checked on social media.  By 1330, I was headed west on VT-125, which I followed until I reached US-7.  In Middlebury, I took VT-125 towards Lake Champlain.  Along the way, I listened to music.  There was very little traffic in most places but had to pass some slow vehicles from time to time.  Used VT-22A, VT-125 again and VT-17 - crossed at Crown Point.  After that, I got on NY-9N (and used some side streets to cut off turns) and continued to NY-73.  Passed lots of skaters on the Cascade Lakes - it looked fun!  Bypassed Lake Placid with Old Military Road and then got on NY-86.  Later, reached NY-30 and continued (with great weather) to NY-458.  Used the cutoff at Wait Road and then continued to NY-11B.  Arrived at the Scottish Inn in Potsdam at about 1620 and checked into my room.  Unpacked and organized for my coming week.  At about 1815, I left the hotel and drove east towards town.  Stopped at Eben's Hearth for drinks and dinner.  I was pleased to learn that they had huge "Big Beer" (three beers worth) mugs for $14 and a "mug club" (I joined it) - I tried a "In Law's Brewing Company Papa's Lager" and then ordered the Reuben sandwich.  Meanwhile, I talked and listened to the other bar patrons, picking up news about events in town, watering holes, skiing conditions, etc.  Finished eating at about 1830 and then drove to Walmart to try to redeem deposits on some cans/bottles I'd brought from home.  The automated machines didn't work but I got help from customer service.  After that, I walked a little (to complete my 10K steps for the day) before returning to the hotel.  It was still early but my body was convinced that it was much later - it may take a lot longer to recover from my recent adventure travel... Trying to delay bedtime, I read for a few hours until I couldn't keep my eyes open - went to sleep at 2130.  Hoping for another great week in New York's North Country!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[working around the house through lunch time - at 1430, drove to White River Junction to swim at UVAC - had a 45 minute swim lane reservation but got there late - ended up swimming 30 minutes (34 lengths) - departed at 1550 - stopped at Cumberland Farms in Wilder and Shaw's in West Lebanon for some free items - drove to Hanover to get a gas fillup at Irving (1615) - then did my Trail Adopter volunteering at Greensboro Ridge Natural Area (1635 to 1735) - home afterward]

Antarctica Trip - Day 16

The red-eye flight was not conducive to rest because the seats were too narrow, the leg room was scanty and my neighbor was fidgeting.  People kept bumping me throughout the night - at one point, the two people inside the row tried to climb over me “without waking me” but it scared the bejeezus out of me!  After that, I almost gave up altogether and I really didn’t sleep (just some dozing) all night.  As the lights came up (it was still the middle of the night, according to my watch), the flight attendants served breakfast (pastry).  By that point, we were only an hour from Miami and I suddenly I realized I’d have to declare the breakfast sandwich I’d bought in Buenos Aires.  For this reason, I ate it right after the airplane food.  My ears hurt a LOT during the descent.  We landed at 0400 local (“regained” two hours since takeoff).  Almost immediately, people started pushing to get off the aircraft.  I was sympathetic was was also exhausted and barely functional.  Somehow, I made it to the Customs area and passed through quickly (Global Entry) with only a few mental errors (mostly as I was pushing buttons).  Nobody noticed, I guess, and I then walked to baggage claim, retrieved my bag and then took it (through inspection area) to domestic transfers.  This layover involved a bag drop (I never like those) and was walked away without knowing for certain whether I did it right.  Next, I had to make a long walk from international arrivals to domestic departures and then go through another TSA line.  Pre-Check and general were almost exactly the same (the staff gave me a little card, indicating my status, but I don’t think it did much).  All during this time, I felt like I was going through motions like a zombie (TSA lady fussing with me) but I ultimately made it through the processes OK.  After locating my gate (0530), I sat down near a charging port and passed the time with some reading and Duolingo.  I had thought about changing clothes but never did.  Instead, I took some medicine I had for my cold (which was still bothering me) and tried to pass the time.  I don’t think I slept but I was surprised when boarding for my next flight began (0615).  Once again, it was hard to tell what was going on and I ended up just walking towards the gate early - fortunately, they let me on the plane.  My seat on this Boeing 737 was by the window and there were lots of kids sitting near me.  To make matters worse, a huge man came to sit in the middle seat, practically pinning me in there.  This initiated a long, hot and miserable flight.  Meanwhile, other passengers ignoring flight attendants and this resulted in us taking off late (0715).  Fortunately, my body finally decided that I needed sleep and I dozed for the first hour or so of the flight.  Feeling a bit rested, I watched movies.  More things to think about: people were standing in the aisles for most of the flight and the man next to me ended up with a baby in his lap.  Trying to hold on to my wits...  "Food" (snacks) was served mid-flight but I was reminded that I was back in the domestic airline world again.  Bonus: with the window open for arrival, I got good views of Long Island, Manhattan and then pretty houses in Queens.  My ears hurt during descent but it seemed like an improvement on the previous flights.  We landed at JFK at 0945 and, after the plane parked, I saw my bag unloaded from the plane (whew, it made it).  We were at Terminal 8 and it took forever for me to get off the plane because I was in the next to last row.  By the time I reached baggage claim, my bag was already there.  Next, I walked to AirTrain and was able to leave JFK quickly.  Another bonus: my MTA card worked at Jamaica.  I was just about to buy a ticket on the LIRR for Penn Station but then noticed there was one going to Grand Central Station - bought that instead (1040).  After that, I noticed one train departed at 1100 (it made a stop at Woodside) but an earlier one (non-stop).  It was a pretty easy ride after that...  Once I reached Manhattan, I took a long escalator up to the main levels of Grand Central.  Everything looked brand new (I found out later that it was) and I asked for help (preparing for my next visit) in order to duplicate my direct train ride between the station and Jamaica.  After that, it took a long walk before I could exit at East 47th and Lexington Avenue.  Next, I had to walk five blocks south (not too bad) in a light drizzle.  When I reached the Dartmouth Coach stop (1150), I noticed that the bus was already there.  I got permission from the driver to leave my bags onboard.  Since I had almost 90 minutes before we departed, I walked across the street to The Capital Grille so I could get lunch.  Sitting at the bar, I had a nice conversation with the bartender (Albert).  I was the only customer for most of my meal (Caesar Salad and some grilled chicken over risotto).  The food was very good!  I also had a Blue Moon in a tall glass and ended up chatting with other guests before I was finished.  At 1300, I walked back across the street and boarded the Dartmouth Coach.  We were on our way at 1330.  Traffic was tough, especially leaving Manhattan, and it was slow going after we got on I-95.  Meanwhile, I napped sporadically for over an hour.  While awake, I watched movies and caught up on a bit of reading.  After entering Massachusetts, I got some snacks (from the back of the bus) to eat for my dinner (1700).  We encountered more traffic near Springfield and then had to do a driver swap north of Brattleboro.  We finally crossed into New Hampshire (1845) and arrived at the  Dartmouth campus shortly afterwards.  As promised, Monte picked me up and took me back to my condo (1900).  We arrived to a fire truck and ambulances blocking our parking lot but (fortunately?) they weren't there for my condo...  Thanking Monte, I started teleworking (prep for tomorrow), got my mail, sent a “Smurfey picture” to the girls and unpacked a little.  Went to bed at 2230, probably as tired as I've ever been.  What an amazing trip!  So glad that I was able to visit the Seventh Continent, experience a world-class cruise line (Viking), meet some wonderful people and experience many active adventures.  This adventure is not likely to be topped by anything for the rest of my life unless I'm given a chance to visit Space or the Moon.  On earth, however, the itinerary was unbeatable!

Antarctica Trip - Day 15

Despite remaining under the weather (sinus block), I slept OK and was awake at 0615.  Spent some time reading, blogging and during Duolingo before heading to breakfast in the hotel restaurant (0715).  There were LOTS of food choices (eggs, sausage, fruit, cereal, pastries) and the venue was quite crowded.  I spent a little time avoiding the other Americans because I continued to hear complaints about the overall travel experiences (SMH).  At 0800, I left the Hilton and walked across the nearby canal, making my way to Plaza de Mayo.  It was sunny, clear and HOT!  My goal was to locate the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, where Pope Francis used to practice Mass.  Fortunately, I arrived just as a Mass was beginning (0830) and joined the service.  My Spanish isn’t great but it was clear that the Homily was actually about His Holiness - I learned later that today was the Feast of the Chair of St. Peter at Antioch. Glad to have been able to get a feel for the Parish.  Afterwards (0900), I made my way north along the west side of the the Puerto Madero canals until I found the Buquebus terminal.  This brought back good memories of my visit to Colonia in 2022.  Skirting the harbor on some surface streets, I managed to enter the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur.  I’d been trying to get inside during the last two visits to Buenos Aires and today it was actually open!  I walked along the north side boundary (fence line) and, later, got some pretty views of the Rio de La Plata.  The trail was dry and dusty and there were more annoying mosquitos.  On the plus side, I felt some nice breezes when I arrived at an area with a beach (no swimming allowed).  Departing the river via a trail junction to the west, I walked towards the Puerto Madero canals.  It was SO hot!  Stopped a few times to check out little boardwalks in the marshes.  Later, I crossed one of the canals on a wooden boardwalk that crossed an algae/weed/lilypad choked channel.  There was no open gate there, however, and I had to continue south on the “quay” before I was able to exit on the southern end of the park.  Along the way, I watched paddle-wheel boats removing organic materials from the canal - looked like a never ending job...  Overall, the hiking activity in the Reserva was quite challenging because of the heat (90ish F) and humidity but, while feeling the breezes coming off the Rio de La Plata, I became convinced that the city is well named.  Leaving the park, I walked the "long way" back to the Hilton (arrived at 1100).  In my room, I tried to dry my sweaty clothing, take a shower, charge my phone and do some repacking before I had to vacate (1200).  I was mostly successful and was completely checked out of the hotel by noon.  I left my bags with the concierge and walked across the canals again.  Initially, I was in search of the recommended restaurant/pub “La Birratera” but found it was closed.  Later, after walking down the entire northern end of the west side of the canals, I finally sat down at Gran Puente (1245).  It was actually located right next door to the restaurant where I’d eaten dinner the night before.  Sitting outside, my table was shady and breezy.  I wasn't in a hurry at that point, so I ordered an Imperial Lager.  Unfortunately, a flight delay crisis started just at that moment: American Airlines moved my flight from later in the evening (today) to afternoon on February 23 (tomorrow).  This would also have meant that my arrival in NYC would be after 2100 local and I'd lose the chance to ride home on the Dartmouth Coach.  Alarmed, I called the Viking emergency line; they were eventually able to resolve the issue by rerouting me through Miami.  Not the best outcome but better than the alternatives...  At that point, I ordered lunch (quesadillas) and had some more cervezas.  Finished at 1415, I walked back to the Hilton and stopped at the Viking desk to update them on my flight situation.  I found several other passengers there who were in full panic mode about the travel SNAFU.  Delayed by transportation arrangements, I started seeking some cool air - the front desk suggest that I try the fifth floor of the hotel (Business Center) so I headed up there.  This looked like a good solution for my two (plus) hour delay and I settled into a couch next to charging port.  However, I then got displaced while removed every piece of furniture from the area (including the couch I had been sitting on.  I spent the next few hours in another part of the fifth floor, trying to stay cool until it was time for our bus ride to the airport.  At 1700, I met the remaining Viking passengers (along with what appeared to be guests from several other cruise companies) and we boarded the bus.  Arriving at EZE (1745), the bus dropped us off at the completely opposite end of the terminal from where the American counter was.  Even after I walked the long distance, I arrived to find a HUGE queue.  I started wondering if I should try to upgrade to Business Class but, after waiting in a big line for about 30 minutes, I reached the counter and found that they were all sold out.  Oh well...  Next, I headed to security and found the several layers of it to be quite quick.  Not knowing which gate my flight had been assigned, I walked around in the terminal and looked for food.  I found some, at La Panera Rosa (1810), and spent some time resting in a nearby seating area (I didn't eat the food I'd bought, however).  At 1900, I got an email about my gate assignment and wandered in that direction.  After verifying the location, I backtracked to get some dinner at Burger King (1940).  Spent about an hour there, resting and relaxing, before walking back to my gate.  I then waited there for another hour before boarding began.  At that point, it was a free-for-all and I ended up getting in line without knowing the boarding section.  I got told (by a roving security person) to drink my water (“no liquids”) and then got a personal search just after I walked to through the gate.  Regardless, I was in my seat (an aisle) by 2100 and we took off for Miami about 40 minutes later.  The Boeing 777 was quite crowded and uncomfortable.  To make matters worse, the young man next to me was fidgety and bulky.  In the end, I was never able to feel good about my seat, especially since the aircraft was generally hot.  Trying not to think about my discomfort, I watched movies to pass the time.  Later, the flight attendants served us a meal (pasta, “salad”, bread, crackers, cake) but I didn’t eat much of it (full from dinner, which I'd eaten because I wasn't sure we'd get dinner onboard).  Once the lights were dimmed, I tried to doze but it was nearly impossible, even though it was almost midnight and I was feeling rather fatigued.  The end of the day found me flying over the Amazon, considering the trip I was now completing.  After my recent adventure onboard "Polaris", my two days in Bs.As were quite tame.  I enjoyed staying Puerto Madero and the delicious empanadas I'd sampled during my three visits to the city.  The “vacation” part of this trip is now ending and I'm going to need some luck to stay close to my schedule.  I'm glad I wasn't switched from a non-stop to a one-stop itinerary on the outbound leg… All of the logistics confusion is just a reminder that I'll need to work on getting back into the rhythm of real/normal life after such a dreamy few weeks...

Antarctica Trip - Day 14

Last day on "Polaris" :-( On the plus, side, I got to go on an early morning excursion into the southernmost Andes before heading north.  I was awake before my alarm clock (0600) and got to watch a very pretty sunrise.  Spent some time reading and doing Duolingo before I got my remaining items (checked in closets and drawers one more time ) and left my cabin for the last time (sad).  Ate breakfast (with ALL passengers) at World Cafe (eggs, sausage, beans, fruit, yogurt).  I’d already checked two bags to Buenos Aires so only had my small backpack to deal with.  At 0720, I met my tour group in The Library so we could depart on our trip to Tierra del Fuego National Park .  By 0730, we left the pier on a big tour bus (many farewells to crew) with a sign on it that said "Blue 1 Group".  Our guide was Georgina and our driver was Martino.  Amazingly, we got another wonderful weather day, unusual for the area (I'd often heard “we have 200 days of rain a year”).  During the drive to the west, our guide told us about the history of Ushuaia (it was formerly a prison colony).  We got nice views of the Beagle Channel (Georgina: “I’ve never seen so calm”).  Eventually, we ended up on a dirt road (very curvy, with rickety bridges).  We passed camping and rafting sites and saw lots of wild horses (she called them something like "trobishas").  Our route took us near (but not visible) to a historic train track that was built by convicts.  We stopped to look at a "turbal" (peat bog) and learned a lot about trees; we saw beech and canella (Winter’s Bark).  Georgina also talked about something she called "faralitochina" (a parasite on trees).  At 0820, we stopped for a walk at the end of Rua 3 (“Fin del Mundo”); the place was called “La Battalla."  We took a walk on a pretty boardwalk that gave us beautiful views of the water (I learned later that the calm "lake" was connected to Beagle Channel).  Encountered many upland geese and walked among Lenga trees.  All around us, there were many snowy mountains.  At one point, I stumbled across a boat dock that seemed to offer transit to Puerto Arias.  On our way in the bus again at 0850, we headed towards the park exit.  During this phase of the trip, we learned about native cultures.  We stopped at Alakush (visitor center), which contained an interesting museum. We also got a snack of Alfajor con Dulce de Leche, another pastry and some tea.  While eating, I met a French trekker (Oliver) and had an interesting conversation with him.  Back on the bus at 0955, we continued on our way through the park.  Georgina told us about about a nearby peak called Cerro Condor - it was located on the 65th parallel of longitude and defined part of the border with Chile.  We made another stop at southernmost post office in the world.  Most of the other passengers wanted to send some mail or get a passport stamp but I avoided the big line.  Instead, I walked part of the Senda Costera - beautiful.  Everyone was back on  the bus again at 1035 and then we drove to the Ushuaia airport (on the way, I filled out a satisfaction survey, all excellent marks, for our guide and driver).  When we arrived (1100), we had to stand in a huge queue that went from the departure terminal entrance to the gates.  This was because all of the other (non “field trip”) passengers from “Polaris” got there at the same time (they’d been waiting in a restaurant in Ushuaia).  Despite the annoying queue, it was actually kind of amazing to see how many people could be processed by security... After we reached the gate area, I found an outlet where I was able to recharge my phone,  During that time, I saw lots of familiar faces and made some more farewells.  Our departure time wasn’t planned until 1300 but everyone else jumped in the line at the gate at about 1130 (I did not).  At one point, I got up to walk around and encountered more “Polaris” passengers (from a fight scheduled earlier than ours) who are also waiting.  I’d initially been a bit disappointed to see the “FlyBondi” logo on my boarding pass but was later quite pleased to see several Aerolineas Argentinas B737s arrive.  My mood improved further when we started boarding (1215) and I found my seat had much more leg room than our aircraft on the previous flight from Buenos Aires.  Unfortunately, I started in a middle seat - but I was able to move to the aisle after the aircraft doors were closed.  We took off on time and got some pretty views of the area as we departed to the north.  At cruising altitude, I did some reading and blogging.  Mid-flight, we were served chicken salad sandwiches and “chips” (more like little sliced pieces of toast).  We got lemon cookies and tea near the end of the flight.  My sinuses cleared out a little during the climb but, during the descent, my ears were blocked again (uggggh).  After we landed in Buenos Aires (1615) we found there was no jetway.  This might not have normally been a big deal but it was VERY hot outside.  Eventually, we deplaned and I was able to get my bags quickly and locate the Viking representatives inside the terminal.  Our next delay began immediately, though, and we ended up waiting for Viking passengers who had booked an extension.  Finally (1700), we were on our way (by bus) to Puerto Madero - whew!  It took nearly an hour to reach our hotel (Hilton again) and, once in the lobby, there was another logjam of activity.  It eventually became clear that the order we did tasks would determine how quickly things moved along.  Using some of my Navy Career experience, I went first to the Viking desk and then got my room key - total time elapsed was 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, many of the other guests were milling around, waiting for instructions.  Reaching my hotel room, I found it to be very warm but also determined that I had great views from the window.  After closing the curtains and firing up the HVAC, I showered, changed and then departed the hotel (1830).  Even then, it was still quite warm and the sun angle was brutal for several of the restaurants along the canal.  Despite the heat, I walked a good bit to locate somewhere I might be comfortable.  Ultimately, I settled on “Juan Bautista” (1900).  Once seated, I ordered some Prisionero Malbec and ate a tasty appetizer (empanada).  My main course for dinner was Bondiola de Cerdo (pork).  For the first time in years, I’d didn’t enjoy the assado because the meat seemed very charred.  In the end, I only consumed one third...  By that point, the mosquitos had descended on Puerto Madero.  As a result, it became almost unbearable to be outside and I started my walk back to the hotel.  Crossing the canals, I arrived back at the Hilton at 2020.  Walking past the hotel restaurant, I saw almost all of the other Viking passengers I'd arrived with eating dinner there (SMH).  Back in my room, I basically collapsed in bed and was asleep quite quickly (2130).  Another fun filled day - with more time in Buenos Aires tomorrow before I have to go home!

Antarctica Trip - Day 13

Viking Polaris: Day 11!  Sadly, this was our last day at sea - I’ve had a wonderful time!  During the night, we completed Drake Passage Crossing #2 without much incident. I was awake at 0615 after a restful sleep.  Before getting dressed, I read and relaxed.  I also took photos of the Cape Horn Islands and then got breakfast (eggs, sausage, fruit, hash browns) at the World Cafe (0730).  While there, I gave a tip to Mega (who was serving nearby) - she has been so nice to me each time I've encountered her.  At 0800, the Captain announced that we were passing Cape Horn.  Hoping to get some good photos of this important event, I went topside (bow) and got some hot chocolate.  Since temps were in the 40s, I was comfortable in a long-sleeved shirt - everyone else was bundled up in winter gear...  The weather was wonderful and I was glad to be able to be outside.  During the next 10 minutes, there were a few other announcements about the ship’s course and the history of the landmark.  Here’s to all the sailors from Cape Cod who made the journey around Cape Horn!  I returned to my cabin (0815) and, for the first time on the ship, I did laundry.  While waiting in my room, I did some more reading.  Rico and the other stewards wanted to clean my room so I left the cabin and went walking.  I came back to the laundry room several times (to check on the washer/dryer) and also picked up a hard copy of the “Viking Daily”.  Later, I began watching some more Enrichment videos (rest of “The Seals of Antarctica”, by Rorie; all of “Thrilled for Krill, by Rorie; part of “Seabirds”, by Ewa).  It eventually became clear I’d never complete them all… My laundry was finished at 1100 and, soon afterwards, I went down to the Aula foyer so I could join a tour of the Laboratory.  Spent more than 30 minutes there, learning about (and viewing through the microscope) microplastics in the Drake Passage.  Other than the excursions in Antarctica, I’m going to miss the scientific nature of this Expedition the most. Afterwards, I got some hot chocolate and had a nice talk with Steve and Regina.  It was getting close to lunch time so I next headed towards Deck 5.  Along the way, I stopped at Expedition Central to watch a demo of knot tying.  At 1200, I went on deck for photos in the Beagle Channel and, 30 minutes later, stopped in for some lunch at Mamsen’s.  Jim and Gayle had suggested we meet there for lunch; I had the Viking Burger and some fries.  We had a very nice conversation and exchanged contact information.  While eating, I was able to tip Satria (he was very appreciative).  I took some more photos on the way back to my room (1400).  When I arrived, I found a special Cape Horn certificate lying on my bed - I’ll proudly add mine to the collection of similar documents I got during my Navy career.  With the warm sun outside, I started feeling rather warm and opened the window of my cabin.  This allowed me to enjoy the pleasant sea breeze.  I’d felt so at home in my fancy cabin that I had to double/triple/quadruple check in every drawer.  I tried reading but soon got quite tired - ended up napping between 1500 and 1700.  As a result, I skipped a planned Hangar Tour.  With the window still open, I got great views of lots of soaring albatrosses, pretty mountains and picturesque coastal communities.  Most of the rest of the day was spent preparing for the return home. Started organizing all my belongings (for packing later) but it wasn’t easy.  I filled out a six page Cruise Satisfaction survey - that was quite difficult, with so many things to report and people to recognize. Fortunately, I’d kept some notes since we began the cruise and believe I submitted kudos for almost all of the wonderful staff.  Also left a tip for Rico and Jocko when I next left the stateroom (1830).  Took more photos outside (approaching Ushuaia).  As I walked through The Library, Paul gave me a small cup of an alcoholic drink, a sort of "Tea" (mmmm).  For my last meal in the World Cafe, I had some Asian soup, sushi, sashimi and some desserts; my last “wine of the day” was a Marius Grenache Syrah (by Michel Chapoutier).  I'd been planning to move on to another activity but then stopped to visit with Richard and Duane because they had more questions about Patagonia.  Eventually (1945), I left the dining area and watched a bit of the docking maneuvers ("Polaris" was docked by 2000).  Next, I returned to my cabin to finish packing.  The stewards were quite happy with my tip and helped me repair my old duffle bag with safety pins.  After that, I left my two bags in the hallway (I’d labeled them with special colored tags) so they could be taken to the airport in the morning.  At 2045, I left the ship and headed into town, hoping to explore a bit before the sun went down.  I initially went walking along the coast and checked out side streets. Some members of the Expedition Team (crew) had told me the name of the bar (“Krund”) where they often have an “end of cruise” drink.  When I arrived there, however, it was closed.  I waited nearby for about 30 minutes but eventually gave up.  In the pretty dusk, I took lots of photos and was just (2130) about to go back onboard "Polaris" when I encountered Olly and Rorie.  They graciously showed me the way to the bar that the crew had chosen on this particular night (The Birra) and I was able to buy a round of beers for the nearly 20 people (mostly the Excursion Team) who were there.  During the ensuing revelry, I met some new crewmembers, talked with the penguin counters, learned more about the “Polaris” future itinerary and chatted about experiences.  I hope I was able to thank them properly for all the wonderful experiences during the last week.  They are an amazing group of young people and constantly exuded positivity, even during the tough times. Believe me, it was infectious! After about an hour, I mentioned that I was going to depart; they were disappointed I’d only had one beer.  But I was feeling quite tired (still not 100% after cold).  Regardless, I'm very glad I could join them. I was back at the ship by 2300 and, in my cabin, made one more run at verifying my packing.  Did some Duolingo and enjoyed the views of the pretty shoreline from my window.  Finally went to bed at 2345 after another full day.  Thoughts in my head as I drifted off to sleep: the people onboard “Polaris”, from guests to crew, were all very nice. Tomorrow this cruise officially ends and I'll start making my way homeward.  Already, though, this has (hands down) been the best trip ever!

Antarctica Trip - Day 12

Viking Polaris: Day 10!  Since last night, we made it from Antarctic waters to the two-thirds point across the Drake Passage.  Overnight, I continued powering through my cold.  The waves last evening were bigger than our first transit but I didn’t feel sick.  However, I taken some seasickness pills because the folks in Guest Services had told me that some crew members used them to help sleep.  During the night, I decided to check out whether they worked - I only woke up once all night so they might have been effective.  At 0645, I opened up my blinds to see a pleasantly sunny day with only a few whitecaps.  Once I was ready to leave my cabin (0810), I had to hold on to the railing to climb up to Deck 5 (to reach the World Cafe).  Initially, I started eating a pretty normal breakfast (eggs, fruit, beans, hash browns, pastry) but then I remembered that I'd been wanting to try the special waffles at Mamsen’s.  The inspiration turned out to be a good one - I only had about half a waffle but I found it to be much lighter than the kind I typically have at hotels.  At 0845, I made my normal walking rounds through the ship.  I felt like a drunken sailor, with all the rolling!  Along the way, I looked for books in the ship's extensive library, met many of my cruise friends and watched the crew as they conducted at-sea drills.  On the way past Guest Services, I picked up more sea-sickness pills and a hard-copy of the “Viking Daily”.  During all of this walkabout, my assessment was that the waves were a bit rougher than the southbound leg but bearable overall.  So, maybe, we got Drake Lake again?  Still have one more sleep before we reach landfall - then we’ll know… At 0955, I passed by The Hide (0955), and spent time watching the big waves crashing over the windows.  The Chief Engineer was giving his briefing again in the background (he sounded almost the same as the day when I'd attended).  Even though I only managed to capture a few seconds of water covering the windows, the unique space near the bow (and close to the waterline) made for an interesting perspective!  I returned to my cabin at about 1030 and watched some more of the Enrichment Videos I’d missed previously (“Whaling”, by Ewa; “Ice Fish”, by Rorie; “Port Lockroy”, by Bridie from UK Antarctic Heritage Trust; part of “The Seals of Antarctica”, by Rorie).  At 1200, I went to lunch (pizza, empanadas, veggies) at the World Cafe.  I didn't tarry long because I had a Galley Tour scheduled!  At 1245, I went to Guest Services and met the rest of the passengers who were going and, at 1300, we began our tour in the kitchen behind Manfredi’s (Deck 1).  We were guided by Ernesto and learned a lot about food preparation, crew morale and Viking Hospitality logistics.  Along the way, we also learned about the complicated (but efficient) food-services onboard, including crew selection and training processes. Before we were finished, we visited Deck A to learn about food storage.  Afterwards (1345), I went up to the World Cafe to sample a tasty blueberry crepe with Dulce de Leche (mmm…) that another passenger had told me about during the tour.  Next, I proceeded to Expedition Central for the last part of a Penguin Counter Workshop.  Before returning to my room, I walked (more like staggered) around on a few decks to get some steps.  In my cabin, I reviewed documents that described the disembarkation process and did some blogging. I started to read a book I’d taken from a shelf in The Library (“Troy and its Remains”, by Heinrich Schliemann) but the motion of the waves made me sleepy.  With nothing planned for a little while, I dozed for a little bit.  I had my alarm set but ultimately didn't need it - by 1615, I was on my way to the rendezvous point for my scheduled tour of the Bridge of “Polaris”. Leaving from Deck 1 (Guest Services), we traveled to Deck 6 and were allowed to visit the conning stations for “Polaris”.  The Captain was our tour guide and he showed us a LOT of interesting equipment, control panels and an amazing “bird’s eye” view of the ocean.  There were all kinds of interesting engineering, navigational, crew coordination and morale issues discussed - overall, an excellent experience!  As we were wrapping up (1700), I got to talking to some other sailors (one was a Navy Sub XO and the other was a Coast Guard Icebreaker crewman).  We were all impressed by the crew, ship and cruise line.  On my way back to my room, I did some more walking and met up with Steve and Regina.  We talked for a little bit but then they asked if I was planning to join the Viking Farewell Reception at 1730.  After they described what it was, I decided that is shouldn't be missed.  I headed to the Aula and barely arrived in time.  The crew showed us a wonderful movie about our cruise (I learned later that this was not shared outside of this one showing because of the legal complications of media rights).  This event was also an opportunity to thank the Captain and the 250ish crew members (from 46 countries) and we all gave them a standing ovation.  Returning towards my room (1750), I picked up two more Viking Antarctica Expedition patches for my ND friend (Kelly).  Next, I got ready for my dinner reservations at Manfredi’s.  At 1900, I sat down in “my” corner seat (good for people watching) for my third and last meal at the wonderful Italian restaurant.  Like each previous time, I had a small portion of several entrees, appetizers and meat/fish dishes: Caprese salad, pasta fagioli, lasagna and grill tuna.  Delicious!  All of this was accompanied by some nice (big) pours of Frescobaldi Pater Sangiovese wine.  Mega and Satria (my "regular" servers) pulled off one more miracle and brought me some Baked Alaska from one of the other eating venues - it tasted great. Wonderful meal and service!  Afterwards, I made some more rounds and talked with lots more people.  At 2130, I stopped by The Hide to take part in an interactive presentation (by Rorie) called “Sounds of Antarctica” (animals).  While there, I had a glass of very good cognac but ended up leaving before the event was over.  I also skipped another dance party event and retired to my cabin.  Read and watched movies until going to bed (2230).  Since I was feeling better by that point, I never took the seasickness medicine.  Definitely was not bored today!  There are probably going to be a few more “you have to try this” things but I believe I’ve already maximized the experiences since I got here.  Regardless, I’m very sad that this amazing journey at sea will end tomorrow…

Antarctica Trip - Day 11

Viking Polaris: Day 9! Overnight, “Polaris” made its way north, through the Bransfield Strait, to the South Shetland Islands. The ship was headed to Half Moon Bay, a sheltered inlet to the east of Livingston Island (I learned later that this was the first place in the area accidentally discovered by modern man).  Within the bay, there was an aptly named Half Moon Island, which was supposed to be the location for our scheduled excursions for today. Overnight, I was forced to adjust to an annoying cold - surprisingly, I slept alright (awake at 0615).  Despite being under the weather, I had no intention of changing my planned off-ship activities for our last day in Antarctic waters: I had an SOB trip, a kayaking session, a zodiac landing and a zodiac cruise to Edinburgh Hill (volcanic formation that looks like Devil’s Tower).  Those events were scheduled to start early but, when “Polaris” arrived in the normally sheltered “harbor”, the wind readings were in excess of 50 knots!!!  As a result, the Captain and Cruise Director delayed the first departures twice (for an hour each).  Meanwhile (0715), I got some photos (rainbows) and then ate my breakfast (eggs, sausage, fruit, cereal) in the World Cafe.  While there, I was joined by a guy I'd met in Pap's a few days before (David, retired Farm Equipment Company Executive) - we had a nice chat. Returning to my room after a short walk, I was disappointed to receive notifications that the afternoon zodiac cruise and kayak excursion had been canceled. This made sense, through, and I consoled myself with the knowledge that I’d already been paddling three times (out of five possible opportunities), had been on an SOB almost every day and had gone ashore five times.  (Note: this was all due to wonderful crew members who were looking out for me.) The delays did allow me to go to the (unhosted) Interdenominational Church Service in The Hide (0900).  Most of the same people that I met last week were there but some new attendees joined as well (I think we were all Catholics). Unlike last week, the crew had not set out any liturgical items; one of my fellow passengers had already found an online copy of the Missal for the First Sunday of Lent and led us through that.  One of the readings involved God’s Covenant with Noah and resonated strongly after our earlier rainbow sighting. Afterwards (0920), I did a little walking on Decks 5, 4, 3 and 2.  Back in my room, I relaxed and read while waiting for my SOB launch time.  During this time, zodiacs started making the trip to/from land and I began to feel confident that I’d get ashore before the day was over. While I was getting ready (1100) to go outside, I realized I’d left my “puffy” jacket (middle layer) at dinner (World Cafe) the night before.  Fortunately, I had alternative gear...  I was putting that on when I got a call from Deck A, asking if I was still planning to go on the excursion.  This was puzzling because it hadn't happened during the entire cruise.  I told them I was enroute and then raced down to Deck A.  We ended up having to wait for the SOB anyway but I guess the reason for the call was that other passengers were trying get on earlier excursions (hoping for cancelations) due to the weather.  During this timeframe, I noticed that the folks getting off the excursion before us were completely soaked and had faces that implied unpleasantness.  Once I made it on the boat myself, I noticed that it was windy, with a relatively high sea state, but it didn’t seem too cold.  Our driver, Nikolai, and guide, Olly, ultimately made the trip a good one by keeping us mostly out of waves and wind.  Olly also gave us lots of amazing information about the visible wildlife.  Even though we couldn’t get too close, we could see chinstrap penguins, fur seals, Antarctic Shags (cormorants), several kinds of petrels, snowy sheathbills, skuas, gulls and Antarctic Terns.  Half Moon Island, as the name implies, is shaped like the letter “C” and we were able to cruise mostly peacefully along the bottom of the curve.  As soon as we tried to peek out into the bay on the North-to-South segment of the island, however, we found ourselves in the biggest waves I’ve seen near land. Nikolai deftly maneuvered us back into the calm, though, and we had a relatively relaxing journey for the rest of the 45 minute-long cruise.  Back aboard “Polaris” (1200), I changed clothes and joined some friends (Donna, Kathy and Jennifer) for lunch in the World Cafe.  I enjoyed a few kinds of pasta and some veggies, drank some Double Amber beer and sampled some more delicious desserts.  After getting done (1315), I retired to my cabin to rest and wait for the next event.  By that point, I had to admit that I’ve been batting 1000 on maximizing the active elements included in my cruise fare, even if I didn’t get to go ashore again.  Meanwhile, the Captain and Cruise Director were calling an audible, due to the heavy winds and high seas.  After some scrambling, "Polaris" received permission for landings at the Argentinian Research Station called Cámara Base.  It was located on the northeastern end of Half Moon Island but was mostly devoid of wildlife (I assume because of the extensive human presence there).  Most of the other passengers were disappointed not to be able to visit a chinstrap penguin colony but I was just happy to have a chance to touch Antarctic soil one last time.  My spirits soared even higher when the weather improved tremendously this afternoon.  By the time I boarded a zodiac for the landing excursion, the sun was shining brightly, the wind had almost died completely away, the temps were in the high 30s and the sea state was excellent.  On the way to the beach, we passed a sailing yacht that had managed to reach the relative shelter of Menguante Cove - I wonder who the heck thought it would be “fun” to sail here… The waterfront was made up of lots of pebbly rocks and appeared to have tiers like a step pyramid.  At the lowest level, there were several Gentoo penguins playing in the water and sunning themselves (I also saw a fur seal and a skua).  On top of the tiered area were the buildings related to scientific research.  I’d hoped we would be able to go up there but we were restricted to a rather small area of the beach.  I ran into the penguin counters and they had actually walked all the way down the coastline to visit the closest chinstrap colony - I felt a little jealous.  There were some pretty views, mostly due to the improved weather conditions, but it was a bit sad to realize the Antarctic exploring was going to end as soon as I re-boarded the zodiac.  Stalling as long as I could, I eventually returned to the ship...  Later, I figured out I was with some of the last passengers of “Polaris” to return and I was soon watching the pack-up operations from my stateroom (1530).  It was bittersweet to be finished with Antarctic landings but my spirits should stay pretty high for a while after this!  I had to get some of my gear ready to turn in to the Steward but then rested and relaxed for about two hours. During this break, I sent a bunch of information about my Patagonia Trip to Richard.  Meanwhile, the ship departed Half Moon Bay and started making its way towards the Drake Passage.  At 1745, I left my cabin and walked around on several decks (including outside) and logged bunch more steps.  Along the way, I stopped at Guest Services and inquired about making an appointment to discuss future Viking cruises.  I'd learned that there were some good discounts to be found if I just listened to the Travel Consultant's spiel.  As a precaution, I also picked up some seasickness medicine.  At 1845, I went to dinner (chicken noodle soup with premade bowl & broth, calzones, veggies, desserts) at the World Cafe.  My meal was accompanied by some glasses of Cuvée Rotwein, German wine by Heinrich Vollmer) - I've sure felt like a king during this tour of the world's adult beverages!  Before leaving the dining area, I talked with some of the crew and thanked them (words and tips) for a wonderful time.  Some of them gave me suggestions for where I might go during our upcoming Ushuaia port visit.  Afterwards (1955), I went down to visit the Viking Travel Consultant (it turned out to be Danny).  However, he was busy for a while so I sat outside his office until I could get in for my own appointment.  At 2000, “Polaris” arrived at the departure passage (between Robert Island and Nelson Island) for the Drake Passage and officially departed from Antarctica.  Meanwhile, I finished my meeting with Danny (2100) and captured some loyalty discounts for a future Viking cruise.  I returned to my room and took the sea-sickness pills (Guest Services said they’d help me sleep).  Also did some more blogging and watched a little bit of TV.  Finally went to bed at 2230.  We won’t see land again for almost two days but I definitely believe these DP transits, not matter how bad they might be, have totally been worth the "risk."  Sadly, my amazing Antarctic adventure has nearly run its course.  Overall, this trip has been a great, chance-of-a-lifetime adventure that I’ll never forget.  Every day since we reached the Seventh Continent has been action packed, educational and awe-inspiring.  Viking has done a great job, all around, to make this Expedition unforgettable and it is very hard to leave… 

Antarctica Trip - Day 10

Viking Polaris: Day 8!  The beautiful weather continued today and this allowed me to get another “hat trick” of off-ship activities. The ship was moving all night and we were approaching Trinity Island when I awoke (0630, the latest on the trip).  I slept OK but I think I woke up in the middle of a REM cycle... I’d been unable to finish my travel post on social media last night so worked on that until about 0815.  After that, I got ready and walked to the World Cafe.  There, I met up with Jennifer, Donna and their friends (including Danny the Cruise Director) for a light breakfast (half waffle and yogurt).  It was interesting to observe all the dynamics at an "official cruise table" for the first time on this cruise.  Usually, I just select my own table and run into others accidentally.  This was completely different and included some good natured ribbing, stories missing context (for me, anyway) and, surprising to me, a LOT of complaining.  Perhaps I'm the strange one but I have been enjoying everything and never noticed anything worth being upset about - the folks this morning sure felt otherwise...  It was raining a bit and foggy so I wasn’t sure if the second attempt of launching the NOAA weather balloon would actually happen.  At 0845, I was the only one at the table who headed up to Deck 6.  The weather still wasn’t very nice up there (and Deck 7 was secured) but they did give me an Amarulo coffee and it warmed me up.  Best part, though, was that I got to watch the Chief Scientist and her team conduct a successful launch at 0900.  The few guests that were in attendance congratulated the Science Team and, after a brief detour back to the World Cafe (for some bread pudding and juice), I headed to Expedition Central for a briefing about the data being received from the balloon’s radiosonde (0925).  It was all very interesting!  Continuing along with the Viking theme of Enrichment, I next went to The Hide (at 1000) for a presentation by the Chief Engineer about the inner workings of “Polaris”.  He was from Norway and had been intimately involved in the construction of the ship (and its sister, “Octantis”).  “The Chief” was quite funny and an expert at all things mechanical - I geeked out with him for about 90 minutes (he still wasn’t done) before I decided I needed to start getting ready for my three excursions this afternoon.  First (1130) went back to the World Cafe for lunch (pizza and lasagna, followed by a specially made Caesar salad).  Topped off the meal with some delicious desserts (including items from the Chocolate Fountain) and also tried the special soufflé (“offered only once per cruise”).  On the way out of the dining area, I crossed through the Living Room and got to hear some of the Daily Trivia questions.  After returning to my room, I did some blogging and watched (recorded version of) the Daily Briefing.  At around 1300, “Polaris” arrived at Mikkelsen Harbour, located on the coast of Trinity Island.  Once I was geared up, I went to Deck A at 1310 so I could join the first kayak excursion of the day.  This was actually an event that I’d signed up for back in December.  In a sign that other passengers may have reached some level of “travel fatigue”, only seven other people (half the number on previous paddles) showed up.  This meant (to me, anyway) that the event ultimately ended up being much nicer - for the crew, certainly, there were much fewer logistics to coordinate.  The weather had improved to be mostly cloudy (no precipitation) with temps on the mid 30s.  After departing the ship in the first wave of excursions, we transferred from zodiac to kayak near D'Hainaut Island and then proceeded to paddle (counterclockwise) around the whole island.  I was paired with a young man named Mauro (from the Aeolian Islands near Sicily) and he was a true kayaker - this meant we could go really fast!  During our circuit, we passed several Weddell Seals, sunning on the beach, and saw countless Gentoo Penguins.  On the other hand, we had to dodge submerged rocks, avoid mini-icebergs and “surf” bigger waves.  Altogether, the entire experience was awesome!  In the distance, I several times saw some huge chunks of ice falling into the ocean - the resulting waves from this glacial “calving” were pretty big.  Closer to our kayaks, we saw some penguins and other birds that seemed unafraid of us.  Mauro got lots of good video.  When we had completed the full circuit, we transferred back onto our zodiac and headed back towards “Polaris” (passed the Science Team's zodiac on the way).  Talked a lot with my fellow paddlers, including Richard, a doctor from Massachusetts, who had lots of questions for me once he realized I'd hiked the AT and visited Patagonia.  He asked if I could tell him more and I suggested we meet up during the dinner hour.  Back aboard the ship (arrived at 1500), I spent some time exchanging a huge number of photos/videos (via Airdrop) with my fellow paddlers before returning to my room for a gear change.  Without much rushing, I was back on Deck A in time (1545) for my next excursion: an SOB ride across the harbor.  This time, I had a completely different crew, with Daniel as the guide.  We first journeyed straight over to an iceberg that featured a sleeping leopard seal.  He was quite entertaining, rolling around and flexing his flippers.  Daniel told us that the entire bay was likely patrolled/defended by this one seal.  In the same area, we got to see the submarine up close - I’ve not had any desire to ride in this excursion craft but am still fascinated by the engineering.  Driving to the south, we passed the ship, left the harbor and entered the open ocean.  Out on the “Big Blue”, we could still see many majestic peaks, lots of blue glaciers and some large icebergs.  Most of these things were covered in a pretty fog.  The SOB next opened up the speed (25ish knots) and we raced through the water to an area where we could observe Gentoos swimming and “skipping” across the water. After turning around, we returned with almost the same amount of speed.  Along the way, we did make one stop to view and talk about a skua perched on a piece of ice (he was, apparently, a different type from what we’d been seeing for the whole Expedition).  With my binoculars, I watched some soaring Antarctic Terns and marveled at several cormorants that were flying with their wingtips almost touching the water.  Back at “Polaris” (1630), I immediately boarded a zodiac that was headed to D'Hainaut Island.  By then, the weather had gotten a bit wetter - it was still pleasant enough, though.  I arrived on land at 1645 and proceeded to explore the area with some borrowed trekking poles.  There were lots of photo/video opportunities for capturing images of the plentiful Gentoos, seals (Weddell and Fur), skuas and gulls.  Also interesting to me were the 100+ year old Blue Whale bones that lay on the shoreline.  Most of the walk was muddy or icy but I kept my footing throughout the visit.  I saw lots of familiar faces and enjoyed watching all the animals in their habitat.  Since learning more about them, it was also a treat to meet up with the penguin counters again - I ended up chatting with one of them (Jason) for a bit (and later on the ship).  Climbing up on the highest point of the island, I found some good views.  Along the way, I assisted several couples in creating wonderful photo memories.  Unlike previous landings, I actually left the island within 45 minutes (1730) and was back aboard about less than 15 minutes later.  After taking off my gear in the room, I started roaming around (outside) on the Promenade Deck.  At first, the weather topside was quite pleasant and I was able to get good photo angles on a lot of the scenery. About 30 minutes later, though, it started to rain.  That was a good cue for me to head to dinner (roast turkey, veggies and potatoes; also sampled several desserts) in the World Cafe.  Along with the food, I enjoyed a glass of 6ème Sens Rouge (from France, by Gerard Bertrand).  Meanwhile, “Polaris” left Mikkelsen Harbour and continued north.  I’d chosen a table by the window with three vacant chairs - this created several scenarios where passenger friends stopped for conversations about their day. Richard found me near the end and we spent a lot of time talking about his upcoming (right after the cruise) trip to El Calafate and El Chalten.  It was great to reminisce about my 2022 visit there and, I think, he was glad to pick my brain.  This conversation meant that I wasn’t done with dinner until 2045.  Since the sun hasn’t been going down until about 2200, it never really feels late until it’s well past my normal bed time… Before I was ready to call it a day, however, I walked a bit more and stopped in at Pap’s to do some more visiting.  It was already 2300 by the time I finally reached my cabin again.  Not exactly sleepy yet, I did some blogging and planning for the next day.  I also watched a movie while my social media posts were uploading and eventually went to bed at 0100.  One thing that I noticed as I turned out the lights was that I might be getting a cold - dang...  Apart from that, though: what a great day for truly exploring the wonders of Antarctica! We’ve got another exciting day (the last with excursions) planned for tomorrow - wish this never had to end!

Antarctica Trip - Day 9

Viking Polaris: Day 7!  Before this morning, we’d been walking on islands off the coast of the Antarctic Mainland - today marked the official “Continental Landing” of our Expedition.  “Polaris” still had to some positioning to get closer to our destination, Portal Point on the Reclus Peninsula, so there weren't any excursions planned until later in the day.  After staying up so late last night, I didn’t awake until almost 0630.  I read for a little bit and then (0715) went to the World Cafe for breakfast (cereal, fruit, beans, hash browns and a bagel, abstaining for Lent.  From my table, I was able to watch whales and seals.  Earl (from my first evening at Manfredi’s) asked to join me and we had a good conversation about our journey home after returning from Ushuaia.  I learned that it was his birthday and wished him many happy returns - what a great place to be for such a celebration.  He mentioned interest in the Tierra del Fuego National Park excursion (on the day we disembark) so I decided that I also would sign up to go.  After finishing my meal, I walked out on deck (wearing only short sleeves!) to look at beautiful Charlotte Bay - breathtaking!  Even though I was in short sleeves, I felt comfortable because the weather (partly sunny and mid 30s) was far different than yesterday.  Next, I did my usual walking rounds (on Deck 5, 4, 3 and 2) and made stops at Guest Services, (TDFNP excursion form drop), Spa (to say hi to the staff), Expedition Central (to talk to Diogo about his participation in a live “Man Overboard” drill), the Studio (for Q&A with Molly and Eva).  At the latter location, I was able to confirm that there really were Penguin Counters onboard.  Before returning to my room, I also checked out some more of the podcasts related to the ship's artwork and finished my audiobook.  Altogether, this was a rather leisurely morning onboard. Back in my room, I read some more and answered a lot of comments and questions on social media.  At 1045, I started getting ready for my first excursion of the day.  By that point, we were back in Charlotte Bay and were setting up on the east side of the Reclus Peninsula.  Once anchored, the first round of excursions departed.  Since I’d heard that the lines after the first wave got much shorter afterwards, I arrived on Deck A before my scheduled Zodiac Landing.  There was almost no line and I was on the zodiac by 1110.  The weather was great (partly cloudy, mid 30s, almost no wind, water pretty smooth) and we had a quick ride since there were only four of us. Scrambling out of the zodiac, I took my first steps on mainland of Antarctica!  There were fur seals *everywhere* and the surrounding scenery was spectacular - it was hard to know where to go first.  I walked across the “portage strip” to a pretty lagoon.  The kayakers were paddling there and it looked fun - hoping I can get on that excursion later.  As I shuffled around, walking across a slushy (but sometimes icy) trail circuit, I talked to Expedition Team members about algae, phytoplankton, birds and seals.  Regarding the latter, the crewmembers told me they’d never seen so many (“mostly juvenile males”) at once in one place.  Of course I also took lots of photos of pretty glaciers and mountains - wow!  Along the way, I saw many people I knew.  I climbed an icy/snowy hill and got even more spectacular views.  The sun had come out completely on the opposite side of the bay (behind the ship) and it made everything look like a wonderful painting.  On the ridge, I talked to more docents and watched several skuas as they soared and played.  In the end, I lost track of time and stayed far longer than I’d meant to (I wasn’t back on the zodiac again until about 1225). On the way back to “Polaris”, we got quite close to a humpback whale - the views of such majestic creatures never disappoint! After getting back inside the ship, I checked with a crewmember (Jess) about the next kayak run.  Unfortunately, it was fully booked but I was told to check back after 1500.  With this plan in mind, I went looking for food. I’d seen people up on Deck 6 (while I was out on the water) and later learned that there was a “Continent Landing” BBQ going on up there until 1330.  After shedding all of my excursion gear, I made my way topside.  I was wearing only my base layer but it was warm enough.  The crew had prepared steak, chicken wings and some grilled sea bass - sides were cold slaw and a baked potato.  I tried the sea bass and it was quite filling.  Seating was limited so I offered the other three chairs at my table to a some newcomers (a guy named Tom and his wife) - it’s never hard to meet new people!  The servers offered us a “Long Beach Iced Tea” (five kinds of alcohol, with cranberry) and I enjoyed that as well.  Returning to my room, I geared up for my next excursion and then headed to Deck A.  I arrived at 1415 and boarded SOB 03 (same boat and crew as yesterday).  We were soon on our way out into the wonderful day.  Like yesterday, we spent our time on the opposite side of the bay from the zodiac landing site.  Unlike yesterday, we saw so much wildlife!  Actually, it was all our driver (with help from the bridge crew) could do to chase humpback whale pods and different kinds of seals (we saw more fur seals and a crabeater lying on a little iceberg).  Towards the end of our 45 minute drive around Charlotte Bay, I saw two humpbacks breaching.  This sight was too far away for photos but I could clearly see them rising about two thirds of the way out of the water - the splashes they made were spectacular!  (Am I using that word too much?).  Anyway, another SOB was much closer to them so I hope to see photos eventually...  Back at the ship again (1500), I checked with Jess about kayaking and she recommended that I change into my other gear and return ASAP, in case someone didn’t show for the excursion 15 minutes later.  I did as she suggested but, when I returned, Deb told me there were no open slots. I don't always win when I roll the dice... Disappointed (but not annoyed) but not wanting the day's fun to end, I headed back to my room so I could change into other gear for the Spa and Fitness Center. Heading to Deck 2 (1515), I relaxed with another round of Nordic Bade (sauna, snow grotto, steam room, ice bucket, Experience Shower).  The pool was full of people and the jacuzzi was closed so I crossed the hall to get five miles on the stationary bike (20+30 minutes).  Along the way, I was able to watch SOBs coming and going, marvel at the beautiful mountain scenery and enjoy the many spouting humpbacks - you can’t beat this mobile gym!  Finished at 1645 and returned to my room to get ready for dinner at (reservation only) "The Restaurant".  I found Sprite in my mini-bar (I’d tentatively asked for something other that Coke) - Rico really listens! My reservation was at 1800 and I arrived to find I was still set up for a table for four.  I joked with the couple in line behind me, my friends Steve and Val (from Iowa) that they might end up sitting with me.  And that is exactly what happened - we (early birds) got a wonderful table near the window. As usual, I tried a new wine; this time, it was a Chilean Frontera Cabernet (white).  For dinner, I had the Caesar Salad, Salmon (with potatoes and roast veggies) and some Bundt cake with a side of roasted caramel gelato.  It was all wonderful.  Steve called Paul (who I’ve learned is the Drink Coordinator) over to give us some drink advice and he ended up bringing us an aperitif that was quite good.  As I was trying to depart the restaurant (1930), I noticed that Jennifer and her aunt (Kathy) were sitting only a few tables away; nearby, Corby and his mom were also enjoying their meal.  I got an Airdrop of a great photo from Corby from our kayak excursion and caught up with the ladies on what their favorite activities had been.  Sometimes it’s hard to go anywhere with all the stories we each have to share! Walking back towards my room, I stopped at Guest Services and was able to set up some extra events (dinner, lecture) for the last few days of the trip.  I also visited Expedition Central to learn more about the “Polaris” Itinerary.  While there, I ended up in a conversation with an older gentleman who was an aviation enthusiast.  If I hadn’t had anywhere else to go, I might have talked with him for the rest of the night.  However, my destination (by way of changing one more time in my room), however, was the “Continental Landing Party” that was being conducted in the “Living Room”.  When I arrived (2045), the place was crowded and rowdy.  There was music, dancing and cocktail drinks (“Madras”) - this is the first such social event  of its kind and I think everyone was dying to “bust loose.”  Eventually, everyone (including me) danced to at least one song. Jennifer and Kathy arrived and introduced me to several of their friends.  After a while, however, I had gotten so warm that I went outside to cool down.  Later returning to the Living Room, I saw that a lot of people had departed. I stayed there for a little longer, chatting with a small group of folks I’ve come to know well, before adjourning to Pap’s in the Explorer’s Lounge.  I had another old fashioned and visited the few other guests until last call (2330).  By then, “Polaris” was making its way out of the Gerlache Strait and heading towards the next “port visit”.  The sea state was quite rough and there was a driving snow - the effect of searchlight beams was surreal.  Reluctantly, after a full day, I went to my room and spent time blogging until going to bed (0100).  In the Gerlache Strait, we’ve had a great stretch of good weather, wildlife viewing and fun.  But there is more to see near the northern tip of Antarctica!

Antarctica Trip - Day 8

Viking Polaris: Day 6!  Today was the first day we truly encountered inclement weather and began to experience some of the harsh conditions of the Seventh Continent.  For the first time during the voyage, I'd left the window blinds closed (after turn down service) overnight.  This didn't help me sleep any better and I was awake by 0530.  During the night, “Polaris” had driven south in the Gerlache Strait (I believe we crossed 65 S Latitude) until rounding Wiencke Island and heading north into the Neumayer Channel.  We hadn’t anchored when I first looked out the window but we eventually set up near Damoy Point.  At that location, we were very close to the British Antarctic Survey Station at Port Lockroy, on the same island, which boasts a Post Office which is located farther south than any other in the world. I read until 0715, when I went to breakfast (eggs, cereal, fruit, sausage and bread) at the World Cafe.  While there, I saw lots of friendly faces - we've been on the trip long enough that I've almost encountered all of the 350ish passengers at least once...  There was snow on the deck and it was quite slippery.  After leaving the dining area, I visited Guest Services to learn more about a possible post-cruise “day trip” to Tierra del Fuego National Park (a note about it had been left in my room).  I confirmed that we'd all be forced to vacate our staterooms by 0800 on the last day (even though our flights to Buenos Aires aren't until much later in the day) so I think I'm going to sign up for the excursion.  Next, I went for a walk on Decks 3, 4 and 5 (listened to audiobooks) and also spent time visiting with staff at the Spa (and with some other passengers).  A “Man Overboard” had begun during breakfast and I saw lots of signs that it was taking place.  At one point in my strolling, I watched a boat pick up "Oscar" (from the Promenade Deck).  Back in my room by 0930, I watched the rest of the “Penguin” lecture (presented by Ewa) that I missed several days earlier - it was quite good.  At 1030, I started to get ready for my first excursion of the day and then walked down to Deck A about 20 minutes before boarding another Special Operations Boat trip (1115).  The weather conditions were low 30s, heavy winds and lots of sleety snowflakes.  Unlike the previous SOB trip I’d done, this itinerary didn’t make a lot of sense to me.  Instead of heading in the direction of Damoy Point, where the Gentoo Penguin colonies were, we motored north in the Neumayer Channel with barely any views of land (too far, too foggy).  The wind and snow combination was quite sharp on my face and, for the first time on the Expedition, I pulled my neck gaiter high up on my face.  We encountered a few Gentoos (swimming) but didn’t really see any other wildlife.  I started to really just hope we were turning around soon when we abruptly stopped.  It was only then that I realized our guide (Jessica) was planning to collect phytoplankton samples for a scientific lecture later in the day.  My attention then refocused and I started to feel a bit better about the seemingly pointless ride.  After the science was done, however, we motored back towards the ship and got an even higher velocity of wind/snow impact (everyone, including me, was visibly uncomfortable).  One interesting thing (i.e., distraction from the cold) was that we passed the MS Seaventure (small polar passenger ship) - I didn’t expect to see another vessel so close to us.  After that, though, we hit the worst of the wind and driving rain.  By the time we were back onboard (1215), I questioned my desire to go outside again for the rest of the day.  This thought didn’t last long, though, because I was informed that I’d been added to the 1500 kayak excursion. I quickly confirmed that the Landing zodiacs were still running and, since I never want to miss anything interesting, I immediately got in the queue for a trip to the Damoy Hut (1230 departure).  Since the Landing zodiacs were still running (and since I never want to miss anything), I immediately got in the queue for a trip to the Damoy Hut (1230 departure).  The ride in the zodiac (through Dorian Bay to the shore) wasn’t too bad but I got a bit wet in the sea spray.  Our approach was quite impressive, with towering ice cliffs all around.  Once on land, I encountered some blue jacketed men who claimed to be “penguin counters” from “Polaris” (still trying to confirm this but it sounds like an interesting job title).  Next, I grabbed some hiking poles and made my way towards a “race track” circuit trail that was intended to allow us to visit several large Gentoo colonies on the peninsula.  The walking surface was a bit deep and slushy and the only way to know where I should go was to follow widely spaced orange poles.  Meanwhile, the snow and wind continued.  After a while, I reached the first rocky area with penguins and watched them in their daily routines - it never gets old!  One of the Expedition “docents” pointed out that there were also two huge/fat Weddell seals on the beach. I was able to follow their antics through my binoculars.  Nearby, a lone fur seal seemed quite alert and active (in contrast to the other ones I’d seen).  I continued walking the circuit, taking lots of photos of penguins and enjoying a true Antarctic experience.  Size and perspective were difficult to gauge in expansive snow fields so I was surprised to discover that the large dark objects in my binoculars were actually Skuas (birds).  They are quite funny to watch!  When I approached the landing zone again, I took some time to visit the Damoy Hut, built by the British to support polar explorers in need.  It is now more of a historic site.  The interior wasn’t too fancy but there were provisions, warm clothing, sleeping racks, survival equipment and lots of reading materials.  Definitely would be better than the outside conditions.  Next door, there was an active Argentinian equivalent building but it wasn’t open to us.  When I headed back to the beach, I was the only passenger ready to depart (I think almost everyone else had left because of the weather).  This meant that I, along with the driver (Mariano) and another crew member (Molly), got to see the full capabilities of the zodiac.  When the driver told me “you might want to hang on”, I almost laughed.  However, when we got going, I was hanging on for dear life… The trip, which couldn’t have taken longer than five minutes, was the first real adrenaline rush I’ve had and I felt quite good to have managed to stay inside the boat.  Molly commented that it was the fastest zodiac ride she’d ever taken.  The crew is so good to us but I think they like to let loose once in a while.  It feels good that they felt they could “play” a bit with me onboard.  The end result of the fun, though, was that I was completely drenched when I came through the biosecurity checkpoint (1315).  Salt was everywhere: gear, eyes, ears, mouth.  Still, I was quite elated.  At that point, though, I learned that kayaking had been canceled for the rest of the day.  Taking advantage of some rare downtime, I quickly changed in my room and then headed to lunch in the World Cafe.  Since I had a more formal dinner scheduled later, I didn’t eat a lot (settled for a tuna-melt like sandwich, salad and some of that good “jelly” in the glass jar).  Since almost no one was left in the cafeteria, the serving staff wasn’t too busy and asked me lots of questions about my excursions.  Up until now, I haven’t had any alcohol at lunch but I figured my day outside was finished.  I ordered an Aegir Raller (Norwegian Amber Ale) and watched the Jekyll/Hyde weather outside the window.  At times, I couldn’t see anything last the Promenade Deck - at others, I could see all the way to the huts on land.  From my experience, the latter images were “sucker holes”.  After finishing my meal, I started walking around the ship in a sort of "photo session" of the boating actives still taking place around the ship.  When I reached the Pool Bar (located near the stern), I decided that today was the best chance I had for a dip in the Tepidarium and Caldarium.  After quickly changing into my swimsuit (in my room), I returned to the Pool Bar again and started another Nordic bathing experience.  To use the special pools, I first had to enter a smaller (warm, indoor) pool and then swim underwater to reach the outside (!).  Next, I had to climb out of that pool and then climb down into the hotter pool.  It was snowy and windy but I managed to make the transfers OK.  Needless to say, I was the only one dumb enough to be there…  I did skip the Frigidarium (cold pool).  Returning to my room again, I rested and relaxed for a little while.  During this window, I also did research on our surroundings and decided that I should go see the delegation from Port Lockroy.  The staff from the British Research Station had come to visit the ship and had set up a gift shop in Expedition Central.  I didn’t buy anything but they allowed me to stamp my passport.  When they later left "Polaris", they took our postcards back to their post office.  We’ll see if any make it to the US…  Afterwards, I walked around for a little while and chatted with more of the familiar faces I’d met this week.  My activities also involved taking more photos, listening to artwork podcasts and helping scientist (Rorie, from California) update the wildlife sightings board.  For this last item, it felt good to report to her that I had actually seen several animals that had not previously been recorded.  At 1730, I attended the Daily Briefing in the Living Room.  Back in my room shortly after that, I watched a recording of an Enrichment Lecture about “Humpback Whales” (presented by Rorie, I had missed it the day before).  At about 1845, I got dressed up (collared shirt and khakis) and headed to Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant for my "follow up dinner" (arranged by some of the nice employees there).  When I arrived (early), the restaurant was packed and I thought I might have to come back later.  Fortunately, the manager (Grace), who had told me to stop by any time, found me a small table in the back.  After that (1915), Mega and her colleagues set me up with an amazing meal of super small portions (so I could try more things): Chianti, Antipasti alla Tuscana, Tagliolini Feschi all’Aragosta, Filetto di Manza Gorgonzola (filet mignon), Gnocchi Feschi al Gorgonzola, hazel nut gelato.  Everything was wonderful and I thoroughly enjoyed myself.  Meanwhile, “Polaris” transited the Nuemeyer Channel and the views out the window were spectacular.  The Captain came on the loudspeaker (a few different times) to announce various wildlife and terrain sightings.  His second report included news that a large pod of Orcas had been spotted nearby.  At that point, I was talking to a large group of folks I’ve come to know well - you should have seen us all scramble out of the restaurant!  During my wanderings on the Promenade Deck (starting at 2045, as the sun was disappearing on the horizon), I got to see about 10 different whales as they chased penguins.  They were rather far away so I didn’t get the best photos.  Still, it was a real treat.  Later, a lone humpback whale (feeding) came near the ship and continued serenely swimming as we passed.  Wow!  As I walked aft (following the whales), I ran into Jennifer and her aunt - I ended up hanging out with them at Pop’s at the Explorer’s Lounge, which I guess they visit every night.  For the first time on the cruise, I ordered alcohol I had to pay for (an old fashioned).  It turned out to be rather inexpensive and capped off the evening.  More friends arrived before the night was through.  Before I realized it, midnight was approaching!  I said goodnight to everyone and headed to my cabin.  Before going to sleep, I did some blogging and watched a movie - turned my lights out at 0100.  This day might be one of the most varied of the Expedition - life is not boring on a Viking Cruise!

Antarctica Trip - Day 7

Viking Polaris: Day 5!  The ship continued moving all night, trying to avoid some higher winds, and I woke this morning (0555, after a good sleep) in the middle of the Gerlache Strait, a wide passage that separates the Antarctic Peninsula from the Palmer Archipelago (“barrier islands” to the west).  From the ship's location map that I am able to access on my TV, it was clear that we’d been motoring around in circles for most of the night.  Through my balcony window, there was lots of good scenery, all lit by bright sunshine.  I read for almost an hour and then (0710) went to breakfast at the World Cafe.  Remembering it was Ash Wednesday, I abstained from meat (instead, had some cereal, beans, fruit, hash browns).  I ran into the Captain and we talked about our kayak excursion on the previous day.  He was very upbeat.  During the same window, I saw a couple (Steve and Val, from Iowa) that I’d met at the Sunday church service and we talked a bit about Ash Wednesday.  After finishing my meal (0755), I went back to my cabin and filled out a stateroom (customer satisfaction) survey.  I also wrote six post cards to send from the post office on Port Lockroy - I later delivered them to Guest Services so they could be sent towards their destinations. My outdoor activities weren’t scheduled until late in the day so I decided to focus on some of the science sessions that the crew was offering.  At 0845, I climbed up to Deck 7, usually off limits, to watch the Science Team launch their NOAA Weather Balloon. The lead up to the main event included coffee with Amarula Cream, upbeat oldies tunes and an informal induction into Viking’s Explorers Club.  The Travel Consultant (Danny) told us we were among about only 500,000 people who have ever been to Antarctica (0.0000625 of the population).  The weather was nice - it was sunny, brisk and only a little breezy.  At 0900, the Chief Scientist and her team attempted to launch the balloon.  However, it was almost immediately caught in a gust of wind and hit some overhead wires.  As a result, the “science package” was severed from the balloon and the whole experiment failed.  Consolation prize: we get to try again in a few days.  Most people left Deck 7 but I stayed once I learned that a second attempt might take place within the next few minutes.  During that time, I met a lady named Jennifer (a City Recreation Manager from Lexington, KY) and we talked for a little while before the crew informed us that the second attempt was not, in fact, going to happen.  By then, it was 0930 and I went to my room to respond to texts and emails from my family.  At 1000, I joined the Daily Briefing in the Living Room (on Deck 5).  There were lots of people (no seats) but it was a short presentation - the speaker also covered our upcoming “port call” at Danko Island.  "Polaris" was still going to be enroute until after lunch so I next visited Expedition Central, thinking there was a demo of the data system used by NOAA during successful launches.  It turned out that I’d missed that, though.  I would have left but the Chief Scientist (Meghan) herself offered to walk me through the material.  Thirty minutes later, I was even more impressed by the scientific nature of this impressive cruise!  Afterwards, I walked around on Decks 3, 4 and 5 (once again, the Promenade Deck was closed).  Along the way, I listened to audiobooks and dodged cabin cleaning staff during each circuit.  When I passed by the Spa, I learned that the warm pool had closed again for maintenance but that the hot tub had opened - decided then that I needed to return ASAP in case this might be my last opportunity for the Spa.  I then continued walking around the ship for a little while longer, locating pretty viewing areas from each deck and visiting some of my onboard friends. Just before finishing the ship-wide stroll, I ran into “Dr. Deb” (kayak excursion lead) and we talked about our successful kayak trip yesterday.  When I mentioned that I was interested in more paddling, she added my name in her draft schedule and then added that she had already received some cancellations.  Crossing fingers for another paddling adventure!  Returning to my room, I changed clothes and then walked to the Spa for a Nordic Bade session (1130). This time, the outdoor (!) jacuzzi was operational and I took in close to 30 minutes of soaking with spectacular views in front of the window.  Never felt cold!  Went through the other hot-cold-hot stations (snow grotto, sauna, cold water bucket, steam room and Experience Shower).  Along the way, my ancient bathing suit started to tear too much to save.  (Actually, I’d already repaired an earlier rip but didn’t feel like wasting more time on it).  This happened when I was in the hot tub and my fellow passengers (including Steve and Regina) and I shared a good laugh at the situation.  Fortunately, I managed to make it through the whole Bade without any embarrassment.  The dilemma of what to use for swimming during the rest of the voyage was solved when another guest asked if I had some workout shorts I could use.  The purchase of brand new exercise shorts before the trip turned out to be an amazing stroke of good luck because I definitely don’t want to miss another chance to swim. Wrapped up after about an hour (1230) and headed back to my stateroom.  Felt VERY mellow after the visit. By that point, “Polaris” had finally anchored in the Errera Channel.  The weather was very nice (30s), with mostly sunny skies and light breezes.  Decided to wait for lunch (so I wouldn’t be hungry before my late dinner) so hung out in my room for a little bit, watching out the window as the ship's crew began setting up for the excursions to Danco Island.  During this break, I started to wonder about noises and vibrations that seemed to be coming from a few decks below my room.  I learned later that this was the ship's state-of-the-art dynamic positioning system (in lieu of anchor).  Suddenly (1320), I received a call from Dr. Deb, who remembered me from yesterday’s paddle.  Her = “Can you be here within 10 minutes?”  Me (who promised “anytime” if there was a cancelation) = “Definitely!”  Racing into my gear, I made it in time and was able to board the zodiac for the first kayak run of the day.  At that point, I realized I hadn’t eaten lunch… No matter - I was outside in Antarctica!  The winds and swells were up, a far cry from yesterday’s excursion.  It was also a bit disconcerting that one of the expedition team members was coughing constantly, almost in my face (I learned later that he'd contracted pneumonia!). With the conditions, almost everyone else was tentative and nervous since they had never been on the ocean in a kayak.  Frankly, I didn’t really think they would let us do the zodiac-kayak transfer… But Deb found a relatively sheltered area on the eastern coast of Danco Island and we scrambled into our watercraft.  Wow - if you didn’t paddle, you were headed out to sea!  My paddle partner for the day (an older gentleman named Bob) was quite nervous and rarely moved his arms.  As a result, I had to do most of the paddling and maneuvering to keep us from blowing into rocks, mini-glaciers or other kayaks.  It was a lot of work.  But, on the plus side, there were about four or five Gentoo penguins on the beach, less than 50 feet away at one point.  There was also a sleeping fur seal nearby and an ominous glacier at the end of the beach.  The original plan had been for us to paddle downwind about a half mile and get picked up again.  But Deb then suggested we turn around and head back to the starting point.  This was against the wind and swells and caused big time chaos among the other seven boats.  Bob and I got back to our zodiac (piloted by Juan from Ushuaia) first, made the transfer and then watched the rest of the members of our excursion group “do their own thing” (i.e., not follow directions), mostly due to anxiety about the situation.  I think this startled the crew members and I tried to help - they seemed happy with that.  Overall, we probably got about a mile of paddling in the 1.5 hours we were away from “Polaris.”  We were soon headed back to the ship again, a bit humbled and in awe of the power of wind and wave.  After I got off the zodiac, Deb told me she’d try to get me another ride soon.  I’d thought I had lots of time to go get some food and rest before my next excursion (planned for 1545) but then realized I only had 25 minutes!  I raced to my room, changed into my other gear, stopped at Mamsen’s to scarf down “lunch” (self serve “tea” fare: split pea soup, open faced shrimp sandwich and piece of cake) and made it to the queue for my Special Operations Boat trip just as they were proceeding to the boarding area.  Whew!  This excursion was much more leisurely but I finally got to see the SOB’s potential, speed-wise - very speedy.  On our tour of most of Errera Channel north of Danco Island, we visited Gentoo penguin colonies on Cuverville Island, watched some of the colony members jumping in and out of the water, observed a calving glacier and raced along at around 20 knots.  The weather was cool enough that my eyes watered a bit but I was otherwise just fine with my 3+ layers of clothes.  The ride lasted about 45 minutes and we saw so many penguins!  We also saw several soaring birds (petrels, terns, skuas).  Back at “Polaris” (1645), I went straight into the queue again so I could join my scheduled zodiac landing excursion.  Due to my solo status, I got sent to the front of the line to join an earlier trip. The driver was again familiar (Molly from Cornwall) and we chatted almost all the way to the landing site on Danco Island.  It started snowing (big flakes) during the transit - it felt like "real" Antarctica!  Once we’d waded ashore (through Gentoo penguin filled waters and beaches), we got hiking poles and started hiking up towards a ridge that overlooked Errera Channel.  Along the way, we had to yield to Gentoos on their “penguin highways” (clearly marked, by them, trails that they use to move around in the islands).  One bird was confused, I think, and started walking on the trail with me for a long while.  Before he turned off, I noticed that almost every other excursion guest had stopped what they were doing and were watching me with my “tour guide”.  It wasn’t too hard to get up to the ridge but I really had to watch my step - at any moment, I might find myself in snow, ice, penguin excretions or sharp rocks.  Years of hiking helped me through… At the top, I was only about 50 feet from a HUGE (thousands of pairs and their babies) colony!  They were loud, cute and smelly - I was mesmerized.  Many of my fellow travelers ducked in and out (if they even made the climb at all) but I stayed as long as I could.  I was rewarded with views of “Polaris”, skuas fighting for scraps and scavenging Snowy Sheathbills.  At one point, only I and one of the expedition crew (Briana from Minnesota) were on the ridge - it felt so isolated and surreal.  Reluctantly, I eventually headed down the hill again, dodging more Gentoos as they walked, with determination, towards their nests.  At the landing area (1800), I didn’t have to wait long for a zodiac and was soon headed back to the ship.  On the way, our driver took us to two locations which had sleeping leopard seals - very cool!  I was back aboard “Polaris”, exhausted, by 1830.  What an afternoon - all my politicking and taking advantage of being a solo traveler had paid off as I scored a rare hat trick on excursions in one day!  Spent longer than normal in the World Cafe tonight, nibbling on tasty morsels (sushi, sashimi, tuna salad, desserts) and enjoying some Lagoalva Tinto (red) with several of my fellow travelers.  One couple (Don the entomologist and his wife, Julie) I'd met on one of the bus rides earlier in the trip stopped to talk to me.  Steve and Val joined me towards the end and we had another nice chat.  After I finished my meal, I spent some time obtaining additional photos (via AirDrop) from other passengers I encountered in the dining area.  There was a bit of Valentines Day hoopla going on but I tried to ignore it.  Back in my room, I completed surveys (on the TV) for each of my excursions.  Spent the rest of the night reading, blogging and watching movies.  Finally went to bed just after midnight.  Once again, the ship has started to reposition - I’m told we will be very close to 65 degrees south by morning.  Wish this voyage never had to end...