Viking Polaris: Day 6! Today was the first day we truly encountered inclement weather and began to experience some of the harsh conditions of the Seventh Continent. For the first time during the voyage, I'd left the window blinds closed (after turn down service) overnight. This didn't help me sleep any better and I was awake by 0530. During the night, “Polaris” had driven south in the Gerlache Strait (I believe we crossed 65 S Latitude) until rounding Wiencke Island and heading north into the Neumayer Channel. We hadn’t anchored when I first looked out the window but we eventually set up near Damoy Point. At that location, we were very close to the British Antarctic Survey Station at Port Lockroy, on the same island, which boasts a Post Office which is located farther south than any other in the world. I read until 0715, when I went to breakfast (eggs, cereal, fruit, sausage and bread) at the World Cafe. While there, I saw lots of friendly faces - we've been on the trip long enough that I've almost encountered all of the 350ish passengers at least once... There was snow on the deck and it was quite slippery. After leaving the dining area, I visited Guest Services to learn more about a possible post-cruise “day trip” to Tierra del Fuego National Park (a note about it had been left in my room). I confirmed that we'd all be forced to vacate our staterooms by 0800 on the last day (even though our flights to Buenos Aires aren't until much later in the day) so I think I'm going to sign up for the excursion. Next, I went for a walk on Decks 3, 4 and 5 (listened to audiobooks) and also spent time visiting with staff at the Spa (and with some other passengers). A “Man Overboard” had begun during breakfast and I saw lots of signs that it was taking place. At one point in my strolling, I watched a boat pick up "Oscar" (from the Promenade Deck). Back in my room by 0930, I watched the rest of the “Penguin” lecture (presented by Ewa) that I missed several days earlier - it was quite good. At 1030, I started to get ready for my first excursion of the day and then walked down to Deck A about 20 minutes before boarding another Special Operations Boat trip (1115). The weather conditions were low 30s, heavy winds and lots of sleety snowflakes. Unlike the previous SOB trip I’d done, this itinerary didn’t make a lot of sense to me. Instead of heading in the direction of Damoy Point, where the Gentoo Penguin colonies were, we motored north in the Neumayer Channel with barely any views of land (too far, too foggy). The wind and snow combination was quite sharp on my face and, for the first time on the Expedition, I pulled my neck gaiter high up on my face. We encountered a few Gentoos (swimming) but didn’t really see any other wildlife. I started to really just hope we were turning around soon when we abruptly stopped. It was only then that I realized our guide (Jessica) was planning to collect phytoplankton samples for a scientific lecture later in the day. My attention then refocused and I started to feel a bit better about the seemingly pointless ride. After the science was done, however, we motored back towards the ship and got an even higher velocity of wind/snow impact (everyone, including me, was visibly uncomfortable). One interesting thing (i.e., distraction from the cold) was that we passed the MS Seaventure (small polar passenger ship) - I didn’t expect to see another vessel so close to us. After that, though, we hit the worst of the wind and driving rain. By the time we were back onboard (1215), I questioned my desire to go outside again for the rest of the day. This thought didn’t last long, though, because I was informed that I’d been added to the 1500 kayak excursion. I quickly confirmed that the Landing zodiacs were still running and, since I never want to miss anything interesting, I immediately got in the queue for a trip to the Damoy Hut (1230 departure). Since the Landing zodiacs were still running (and since I never want to miss anything), I immediately got in the queue for a trip to the Damoy Hut (1230 departure). The ride in the zodiac (through Dorian Bay to the shore) wasn’t too bad but I got a bit wet in the sea spray. Our approach was quite impressive, with towering ice cliffs all around. Once on land, I encountered some blue jacketed men who claimed to be “penguin counters” from “Polaris” (still trying to confirm this but it sounds like an interesting job title). Next, I grabbed some hiking poles and made my way towards a “race track” circuit trail that was intended to allow us to visit several large Gentoo colonies on the peninsula. The walking surface was a bit deep and slushy and the only way to know where I should go was to follow widely spaced orange poles. Meanwhile, the snow and wind continued. After a while, I reached the first rocky area with penguins and watched them in their daily routines - it never gets old! One of the Expedition “docents” pointed out that there were also two huge/fat Weddell seals on the beach. I was able to follow their antics through my binoculars. Nearby, a lone fur seal seemed quite alert and active (in contrast to the other ones I’d seen). I continued walking the circuit, taking lots of photos of penguins and enjoying a true Antarctic experience. Size and perspective were difficult to gauge in expansive snow fields so I was surprised to discover that the large dark objects in my binoculars were actually Skuas (birds). They are quite funny to watch! When I approached the landing zone again, I took some time to visit the Damoy Hut, built by the British to support polar explorers in need. It is now more of a historic site. The interior wasn’t too fancy but there were provisions, warm clothing, sleeping racks, survival equipment and lots of reading materials. Definitely would be better than the outside conditions. Next door, there was an active Argentinian equivalent building but it wasn’t open to us. When I headed back to the beach, I was the only passenger ready to depart (I think almost everyone else had left because of the weather). This meant that I, along with the driver (Mariano) and another crew member (Molly), got to see the full capabilities of the zodiac. When the driver told me “you might want to hang on”, I almost laughed. However, when we got going, I was hanging on for dear life… The trip, which couldn’t have taken longer than five minutes, was the first real adrenaline rush I’ve had and I felt quite good to have managed to stay inside the boat. Molly commented that it was the fastest zodiac ride she’d ever taken. The crew is so good to us but I think they like to let loose once in a while. It feels good that they felt they could “play” a bit with me onboard. The end result of the fun, though, was that I was completely drenched when I came through the biosecurity checkpoint (1315). Salt was everywhere: gear, eyes, ears, mouth. Still, I was quite elated. At that point, though, I learned that kayaking had been canceled for the rest of the day. Taking advantage of some rare downtime, I quickly changed in my room and then headed to lunch in the World Cafe. Since I had a more formal dinner scheduled later, I didn’t eat a lot (settled for a tuna-melt like sandwich, salad and some of that good “jelly” in the glass jar). Since almost no one was left in the cafeteria, the serving staff wasn’t too busy and asked me lots of questions about my excursions. Up until now, I haven’t had any alcohol at lunch but I figured my day outside was finished. I ordered an Aegir Raller (Norwegian Amber Ale) and watched the Jekyll/Hyde weather outside the window. At times, I couldn’t see anything last the Promenade Deck - at others, I could see all the way to the huts on land. From my experience, the latter images were “sucker holes”. After finishing my meal, I started walking around the ship in a sort of "photo session" of the boating actives still taking place around the ship. When I reached the Pool Bar (located near the stern), I decided that today was the best chance I had for a dip in the Tepidarium and Caldarium. After quickly changing into my swimsuit (in my room), I returned to the Pool Bar again and started another Nordic bathing experience. To use the special pools, I first had to enter a smaller (warm, indoor) pool and then swim underwater to reach the outside (!). Next, I had to climb out of that pool and then climb down into the hotter pool. It was snowy and windy but I managed to make the transfers OK. Needless to say, I was the only one dumb enough to be there… I did skip the Frigidarium (cold pool). Returning to my room again, I rested and relaxed for a little while. During this window, I also did research on our surroundings and decided that I should go see the delegation from Port Lockroy. The staff from the British Research Station had come to visit the ship and had set up a gift shop in Expedition Central. I didn’t buy anything but they allowed me to stamp my passport. When they later left "Polaris", they took our postcards back to their post office. We’ll see if any make it to the US… Afterwards, I walked around for a little while and chatted with more of the familiar faces I’d met this week. My activities also involved taking more photos, listening to artwork podcasts and helping scientist (Rorie, from California) update the wildlife sightings board. For this last item, it felt good to report to her that I had actually seen several animals that had not previously been recorded. At 1730, I attended the Daily Briefing in the Living Room. Back in my room shortly after that, I watched a recording of an Enrichment Lecture about “Humpback Whales” (presented by Rorie, I had missed it the day before). At about 1845, I got dressed up (collared shirt and khakis) and headed to Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant for my "follow up dinner" (arranged by some of the nice employees there). When I arrived (early), the restaurant was packed and I thought I might have to come back later. Fortunately, the manager (Grace), who had told me to stop by any time, found me a small table in the back. After that (1915), Mega and her colleagues set me up with an amazing meal of super small portions (so I could try more things): Chianti, Antipasti alla Tuscana, Tagliolini Feschi all’Aragosta, Filetto di Manza Gorgonzola (filet mignon), Gnocchi Feschi al Gorgonzola, hazel nut gelato. Everything was wonderful and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Meanwhile, “Polaris” transited the Nuemeyer Channel and the views out the window were spectacular. The Captain came on the loudspeaker (a few different times) to announce various wildlife and terrain sightings. His second report included news that a large pod of Orcas had been spotted nearby. At that point, I was talking to a large group of folks I’ve come to know well - you should have seen us all scramble out of the restaurant! During my wanderings on the Promenade Deck (starting at 2045, as the sun was disappearing on the horizon), I got to see about 10 different whales as they chased penguins. They were rather far away so I didn’t get the best photos. Still, it was a real treat. Later, a lone humpback whale (feeding) came near the ship and continued serenely swimming as we passed. Wow! As I walked aft (following the whales), I ran into Jennifer and her aunt - I ended up hanging out with them at Pop’s at the Explorer’s Lounge, which I guess they visit every night. For the first time on the cruise, I ordered alcohol I had to pay for (an old fashioned). It turned out to be rather inexpensive and capped off the evening. More friends arrived before the night was through. Before I realized it, midnight was approaching! I said goodnight to everyone and headed to my cabin. Before going to sleep, I did some blogging and watched a movie - turned my lights out at 0100. This day might be one of the most varied of the Expedition - life is not boring on a Viking Cruise!
