Friday, February 16, 2024

Antarctica Trip - Day 9

Viking Polaris: Day 7!  Before this morning, we’d been walking on islands off the coast of the Antarctic Mainland - today marked the official “Continental Landing” of our Expedition.  “Polaris” still had to some positioning to get closer to our destination, Portal Point on the Reclus Peninsula, so there weren't any excursions planned until later in the day.  After staying up so late last night, I didn’t awake until almost 0630.  I read for a little bit and then (0715) went to the World Cafe for breakfast (cereal, fruit, beans, hash browns and a bagel, abstaining for Lent.  From my table, I was able to watch whales and seals.  Earl (from my first evening at Manfredi’s) asked to join me and we had a good conversation about our journey home after returning from Ushuaia.  I learned that it was his birthday and wished him many happy returns - what a great place to be for such a celebration.  He mentioned interest in the Tierra del Fuego National Park excursion (on the day we disembark) so I decided that I also would sign up to go.  After finishing my meal, I walked out on deck (wearing only short sleeves!) to look at beautiful Charlotte Bay - breathtaking!  Even though I was in short sleeves, I felt comfortable because the weather (partly sunny and mid 30s) was far different than yesterday.  Next, I did my usual walking rounds (on Deck 5, 4, 3 and 2) and made stops at Guest Services, (TDFNP excursion form drop), Spa (to say hi to the staff), Expedition Central (to talk to Diogo about his participation in a live “Man Overboard” drill), the Studio (for Q&A with Molly and Eva).  At the latter location, I was able to confirm that there really were Penguin Counters onboard.  Before returning to my room, I also checked out some more of the podcasts related to the ship's artwork and finished my audiobook.  Altogether, this was a rather leisurely morning onboard. Back in my room, I read some more and answered a lot of comments and questions on social media.  At 1045, I started getting ready for my first excursion of the day.  By that point, we were back in Charlotte Bay and were setting up on the east side of the Reclus Peninsula.  Once anchored, the first round of excursions departed.  Since I’d heard that the lines after the first wave got much shorter afterwards, I arrived on Deck A before my scheduled Zodiac Landing.  There was almost no line and I was on the zodiac by 1110.  The weather was great (partly cloudy, mid 30s, almost no wind, water pretty smooth) and we had a quick ride since there were only four of us. Scrambling out of the zodiac, I took my first steps on mainland of Antarctica!  There were fur seals *everywhere* and the surrounding scenery was spectacular - it was hard to know where to go first.  I walked across the “portage strip” to a pretty lagoon.  The kayakers were paddling there and it looked fun - hoping I can get on that excursion later.  As I shuffled around, walking across a slushy (but sometimes icy) trail circuit, I talked to Expedition Team members about algae, phytoplankton, birds and seals.  Regarding the latter, the crewmembers told me they’d never seen so many (“mostly juvenile males”) at once in one place.  Of course I also took lots of photos of pretty glaciers and mountains - wow!  Along the way, I saw many people I knew.  I climbed an icy/snowy hill and got even more spectacular views.  The sun had come out completely on the opposite side of the bay (behind the ship) and it made everything look like a wonderful painting.  On the ridge, I talked to more docents and watched several skuas as they soared and played.  In the end, I lost track of time and stayed far longer than I’d meant to (I wasn’t back on the zodiac again until about 1225). On the way back to “Polaris”, we got quite close to a humpback whale - the views of such majestic creatures never disappoint! After getting back inside the ship, I checked with a crewmember (Jess) about the next kayak run.  Unfortunately, it was fully booked but I was told to check back after 1500.  With this plan in mind, I went looking for food. I’d seen people up on Deck 6 (while I was out on the water) and later learned that there was a “Continent Landing” BBQ going on up there until 1330.  After shedding all of my excursion gear, I made my way topside.  I was wearing only my base layer but it was warm enough.  The crew had prepared steak, chicken wings and some grilled sea bass - sides were cold slaw and a baked potato.  I tried the sea bass and it was quite filling.  Seating was limited so I offered the other three chairs at my table to a some newcomers (a guy named Tom and his wife) - it’s never hard to meet new people!  The servers offered us a “Long Beach Iced Tea” (five kinds of alcohol, with cranberry) and I enjoyed that as well.  Returning to my room, I geared up for my next excursion and then headed to Deck A.  I arrived at 1415 and boarded SOB 03 (same boat and crew as yesterday).  We were soon on our way out into the wonderful day.  Like yesterday, we spent our time on the opposite side of the bay from the zodiac landing site.  Unlike yesterday, we saw so much wildlife!  Actually, it was all our driver (with help from the bridge crew) could do to chase humpback whale pods and different kinds of seals (we saw more fur seals and a crabeater lying on a little iceberg).  Towards the end of our 45 minute drive around Charlotte Bay, I saw two humpbacks breaching.  This sight was too far away for photos but I could clearly see them rising about two thirds of the way out of the water - the splashes they made were spectacular!  (Am I using that word too much?).  Anyway, another SOB was much closer to them so I hope to see photos eventually...  Back at the ship again (1500), I checked with Jess about kayaking and she recommended that I change into my other gear and return ASAP, in case someone didn’t show for the excursion 15 minutes later.  I did as she suggested but, when I returned, Deb told me there were no open slots. I don't always win when I roll the dice... Disappointed (but not annoyed) but not wanting the day's fun to end, I headed back to my room so I could change into other gear for the Spa and Fitness Center. Heading to Deck 2 (1515), I relaxed with another round of Nordic Bade (sauna, snow grotto, steam room, ice bucket, Experience Shower).  The pool was full of people and the jacuzzi was closed so I crossed the hall to get five miles on the stationary bike (20+30 minutes).  Along the way, I was able to watch SOBs coming and going, marvel at the beautiful mountain scenery and enjoy the many spouting humpbacks - you can’t beat this mobile gym!  Finished at 1645 and returned to my room to get ready for dinner at (reservation only) "The Restaurant".  I found Sprite in my mini-bar (I’d tentatively asked for something other that Coke) - Rico really listens! My reservation was at 1800 and I arrived to find I was still set up for a table for four.  I joked with the couple in line behind me, my friends Steve and Val (from Iowa) that they might end up sitting with me.  And that is exactly what happened - we (early birds) got a wonderful table near the window. As usual, I tried a new wine; this time, it was a Chilean Frontera Cabernet (white).  For dinner, I had the Caesar Salad, Salmon (with potatoes and roast veggies) and some Bundt cake with a side of roasted caramel gelato.  It was all wonderful.  Steve called Paul (who I’ve learned is the Drink Coordinator) over to give us some drink advice and he ended up bringing us an aperitif that was quite good.  As I was trying to depart the restaurant (1930), I noticed that Jennifer and her aunt (Kathy) were sitting only a few tables away; nearby, Corby and his mom were also enjoying their meal.  I got an Airdrop of a great photo from Corby from our kayak excursion and caught up with the ladies on what their favorite activities had been.  Sometimes it’s hard to go anywhere with all the stories we each have to share! Walking back towards my room, I stopped at Guest Services and was able to set up some extra events (dinner, lecture) for the last few days of the trip.  I also visited Expedition Central to learn more about the “Polaris” Itinerary.  While there, I ended up in a conversation with an older gentleman who was an aviation enthusiast.  If I hadn’t had anywhere else to go, I might have talked with him for the rest of the night.  However, my destination (by way of changing one more time in my room), however, was the “Continental Landing Party” that was being conducted in the “Living Room”.  When I arrived (2045), the place was crowded and rowdy.  There was music, dancing and cocktail drinks (“Madras”) - this is the first such social event  of its kind and I think everyone was dying to “bust loose.”  Eventually, everyone (including me) danced to at least one song. Jennifer and Kathy arrived and introduced me to several of their friends.  After a while, however, I had gotten so warm that I went outside to cool down.  Later returning to the Living Room, I saw that a lot of people had departed. I stayed there for a little longer, chatting with a small group of folks I’ve come to know well, before adjourning to Pap’s in the Explorer’s Lounge.  I had another old fashioned and visited the few other guests until last call (2330).  By then, “Polaris” was making its way out of the Gerlache Strait and heading towards the next “port visit”.  The sea state was quite rough and there was a driving snow - the effect of searchlight beams was surreal.  Reluctantly, after a full day, I went to my room and spent time blogging until going to bed (0100).  In the Gerlache Strait, we’ve had a great stretch of good weather, wildlife viewing and fun.  But there is more to see near the northern tip of Antarctica!