Viking Polaris: Day 3! Last night I noticed that, even when it was late, the sky never got completely dark (moon or midnight sun?). I was awake in time this morning for a brilliant sunrise (0500), with icebergs dotting the horizon. Due to salt spray on my window, I lowered it to get a better view. I got some amazing photos! Temps were in the 30s so I left the window open as I read and rested in my room until 0700. I’d noticed some conflicts with my schedule (Veterans Coffee and Solo Travelers Get Together) so I next headed down to the Guest Services desk to make adjustments. This was quite easy and I got some other questions about the itinerary answered too. I ate breakfast at the World Cafe again (bacon, roasted mushrooms, yogurt, fruit, beans). Afterwards, I tried to go for a walk on the Promenade Deck but found it was closed again (for wind this time). Instead, I walked around the stateroom areas on Decks 3 and 4. I'd learned last night that it was possible to watch the Daily Briefing as a recording (rather than attend in-person at the Aula). So, after getting my exercise, I returned to my room to get my bathing suit so I could try out the Spa. While changing, I noticed that the scenery from my stateroom window had gotten even better while I'd been running errands. By 0830, I could see definite land masses (mountains and a long, distinct coast) - we had arrived in Antarctica! We'd been told that we’d arrive at our first “port call” (Fournier Bay) after lunch so I took advantage of the time I had to to check out the health club amenities. When I arrived at the Spa (0845), I discovered that the pool and hot tub were not yet open. Fortunately, I was still able to follow the traditional Nordic bath process of heat-cold-heat immersion; I first took a sauna (15 minutes), then visited the snow grotto (took a snow bath), took a steam (10 minutes), doused myself with a bucket of ice cold water (yikes!) and then finished off with the Experience Shower (hot water from all directions). Overall, the bath period took about 45 minutes and there wasn’t another soul around. Feeling refreshed, I returned to my room so I could watch the Daily Briefing recording. It wasn’t ready yet (I presume because the Polaris crew was conducting ship-wide safety drills) so I changed and then wandered around on the ship. I still wanted to get on the deck but it wasn’t possible yet. Instead, I took some photos of the distant mountains and some icebergs from the warm inside forward areas (I used some telescopes there to get cool photos). I considered going to a Penguin Lecture in the Aula but changed my mind when the Polaris Captain came on the PA system to let us know there would be a “Welcome” celebration on the bow. Heading there immediately (my state room was only about 50 feet away), I enjoyed the cool breezes and amazing views of Antarctica! Oh, we also got to have some Irish Coffee to celebrate. While there, I spoke with members of the crew and learned that the landmass on our port side was Brabant Island and the one on the starboard side was Anvers Island. The weather was spectacular, with warm sun and temps in the 30s, and I was quite comfortable with just my sweater (I had brought a coat, just in case). We got a real treat when some humpback whales crossed the bow and showed their tails to us - thrilling! Next, I headed back to my room and was finally able to watch the recorded Daily Briefing. After that, I started watching another science program on TV but then thought, “what am I doing?” Since we were still sailing, I opened up my balcony window and stretched out on the chaise lounge so I could enjoy the passing scenery. During the lunch hour, “Polaris” entered Fournier Bay and took up position for an afternoon of excursions and fun. At 1215, I went to lunch (salmon sub sandwich, pizza, salad) and ended up eating with Jim and Gail again. From the World Cafe, we saw two more humpback whales - it never gets old! After lunch (1315), I headed to my cabin to gear up for two afternoon excursions. Since the weather in Antarctica today was almost exactly the same as the weather in Hanover, NH, I had an odd dilemma: should I dress normally or for the special situation? I went with the former mind-set and used one of my AT hiking long sleeved shirts, a light pair of hiking pants, the mid-later jacket, some snow pants and the red Expedition parka. The latter three items were provided by Viking and were so effective that I was sweating buckets by the time I reached Deck A (Embarkation Area) at 1345. I would have skipped a hat and gloves if I thought I wouldn’t look crazy - in the end, I donned them for conformity’s sake… The sun was warm and there was no wind so I just needed to confirm my hypothesis, that I like this kind of cold, with empirical data. As a solo passenger, I was bumped up (by the crew) two departure gates because of empty single seats. With this fortunate turn, I ended up on the water (Boat #28) about 30 minutes earlier than the schedule. Our driver (Mauro) gave us a familiarization briefing after we departed “Polaris” - within minutes, we couldn’t even see the ship because it was extremely foggy. As we drove towards the farthest reaches of the Bay, however, the mist cleared and we were treated to spectacular views of the high peaks and glaciers that ringed the shoreline. Our driver found a place where we could see wildlife and, by the end of our 45 minutes in the zodiac, we saw: soaring Arctic Terns (4), napping Fur seals (2), passive Antarctic Cormorants (2), “skipping” Gentoo Penguins (4), and floating petrels (6). With the nice weather, pretty views and plentiful wildlife, I was over the moon for more activities. After I returned to “Polaris”, I got another “solo traveler” schedule bump (earlier than the planned 1515 launch) into a Special Operations Boat cruise. This time, we departed (15000) from the other side of the ship aboard a super-fast motor launch. Our driver (Paulo from Croatia) and guide (Adele from Tromso, Norway) were fun and energetic. The fog still lingered near the center of the Bay and there were plenty of icebergs to avoid so we never got to see the full speed potential of the vessel. I ended up spotting the only wildlife, an unidentified large bird (albatross?) and two chin-strap penguins (floating and diving like loons) in the 45 minutes of our voyage. Just before docking (1545), we passed an odd (small) iceberg that was rolling over and over (like a log) - interesting... An aside: I’m happy to report that I was never even remotely cold on either excursion. Back aboard “Polaris”, I added one piece to the giant puzzle on Deck 3 that I'd noticed during each of my excursions. It was the least I could do after watching some other passengers obsessively working on it for the last few days... I changed out of my winter gear and then headed to Expedition Central so I could join a scheduled science presentation (1600). Much of the talk was about animal migrations, the importance of phytoplankton on the ecosystem and the diets of the whales and seals (krill). There was also a demo of the scientific data in their computer system. The crewmember hosting it was very knowledgeable and engaging - I learned a lot and she thanked me for stimulating the conversation. After departing (1630), I walked the Promenade Deck. By then, all the fog had lifted and the true majesty of the scenery was evident. I watched kayakers, zodiacs, SOBs and one of the submarines making their rounds - that was just the human activity, though. Meanwhile, penguins gamboled, humpback whales spouted & sounded and countless birds soared. The whole scene, which I captured with as many photos as possible, was so mesmerizing and inspiring! Next, I dressed up for my reservation at one of the more formal restaurants on "Polaris". On the way to dinner, I made a pass through the Expedition Lounge because I’d heard there was an unhosted “Solo Traveler” "meet up" there. There ended up being one other passenger, an older widower named Mark, and we hung out for about 45 minutes, comparing travel tales. Once I made it to Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant, I got a great seat near one of the windows and was pampered with attention from the staff. Like several of the other eager crew members (one of which signed me up for all kinds of excursions I never dreamed of asking for), the hostess insisted on getting me another reservation (“because you need to try everything!”) for later in the cruise. My meal tonight (mostly recommended by my server, Mega) included half portions of caprese salad, pasta fajioli, beefsteak and the pasta of the day. This was paired with a Frontera Cab-Sav (from Chile) I’ve tried several times since late 2022. It was finally topped off with tiramisu and limoncello. Not sure how I can beat this meal but the staff insists that I try later in the week! Near the tail end of dinner, I met a couple (at the next table) from the Philippines (Earl and his wife) and we had a nice conversation. On the way back to my cabin (2045), I looked in on the Science Team’s presentation in the Aula. I only caught the last part of “Introduction to Viking Science”, presented by the “Polaris” Chief Scientist, but it sounded like the crew is planning to offer some passenger participation opportunities later in the week - I hope to be part of those! My active day ended at 2130 and I spent the rest of the evening in my cabin, reading and blogging. Went to bed at 2355. I forgot to mention that, during my dinner, “Polaris” departed Fournier Bay and headed towards a sheltered cove on the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. The weather forecast has changed our next day’s “port call” but we’ve been told that there is a better chance of a successful zodiac landing there. That could mean I’ll be walking on the seventh continent very soon!
