First Day in Cambodia! Viking Venus docked at the port of Sihanoukville early this morning and my first excursion in country started very early; “Phnom Penh Highlights” required a three hour drive to reach the Capital. Unfortunately, I hadn’t slept well due to pipe maintenance going on all night long. Somehow, I managed to wake up (with alarm) at 0600. This gave me some time for reading, puzzles and Duolingo. For some reason, there were internet issues - hope that doesn't last... I ate breakfast (baguette sandwich, eggs, bacon, beans, cereal) at the World Cafe (0635). I went to get some small bills from Guest Services but learned that the ship had run out of $5 bills ("we'll get some more in Bali"). Along with the other passengers who had the same tour, I spent the next 25 minutes waiting in the Star Theater until we were told we could leave the ship. At 0720, we went out in search of our buses (each of us had been given, like we were for each excursion, a ticket with a group number). Once everyone was onboard, the guides checked that everyone was appropriately attired for temples (e.g., shorts not too short, ladies upper body modestly covered) and some people had to go back to their rooms to change before we could leave. As a result, we weren't able to depart until 0740 (the last bus, of four). As we headed out of the "Wet Port" area, we got to know our tour guides: Sam (Vietnamese name was Sok Ros, which means “Stay Alive”) and “Sraeling”. Our Bus Driver was Khet. Sam initially introduced himself as a former Buddhist monk but then explained that he'd joined the temple in order to get an education and make a better future for himself. What an amazing insight into the day-to-day life of a Cambodian who wanted to improve his lot in life! We learned several phrases in Khmer: “Arun Suste” (good morning), “Ogum” (thank you), "Suesday" (hello, with "Bat" in response) and "TomTom" (very much). Sam also provided a lot of history and explained the use of Campuchea versus Cambodia for the country's name. Our bus ride was quite comfortable - it was the best road surface we’ve seen in Southeast Asia! As we drove along the very smooth expressway (toll road), we passed lots of cows, oxen, crops (rice, fruit trees). Sam began telling us (very) personal stories of his life during and after the Khmer Rouge regime. he explained the background of Pol Pot and moved on to tell us about the Prime Minister and his family (which includes a son who recently became the new PM). About half way into the three hour drive, we stopped at very clean rest stop exit (Mao’s). As we got off the bus at this location (and several others), Sam was very liberal with the toilet paper ("there sometimes isn't any"). Inside, I managed to change $1 into Cambodian Rial (0925). At this place, I first encountered outdoor urinals, which seem to be a "thing" in the entire country... After 10 minutes at this rest stop, we departed - Sam was very liberal with the hand sanitizer... "Sraeling” distributed a snack (croissant, tea) to everyone as we drove north. We got into a traffic jam near the "Dry Port". While we were getting on the National Road, Sam told us about geopolitical challenges: roads named for Trump and Xi, Thailand versus Cambodia (recent conflict). We passed the old Phnom Penh Airport (Sam told us they'd recently opened a new one outside of the city). Almost everywhere I looked, I saw tuk tuks and scooters. One big difference between Ho Chi Minh City and the Cambodian Capital, though , was that there were many more cars. By this time, the temps had risen into the low 80s - Sam said this was considered cold by the locals. Meanwhile, I was happy that it wasn't hotter... Our first stop (1100) was at the Wat Phnom ("Hill of Phnom") Temple. We learned that the "phnom" (mountain) and associated tale of a "Grandmother Penh" was the origin for the city's name. This honorable personage found a tree and some holy artifacts in the area and this generated interest among the population for building a manmade hill for the resulting temple. Otherwise, the Capital city is very flat. We toured the grounds and encountered a lot of interesting art. While Sam was busy telling all the slower (and partially incapacitated) passengers about landmarks at the bottom of the "mountain", I decided to climb to the top. There were several big stupas up there. I made a point to go inside (sans shoes) to see the Buddha. At about this time, the typical rain that we've seen across Southeast Asia began. Fortunately, I had my umbrella. While assembling for our bus pickup (1130), Sam pointed out many, many fruit bats in a nearby tree - wow! Back in the motor coach, we drove along the outflow for Tonle Sap (“Great Lake”) and Sam told us how this river interacts with the Mekong River as they join in Phnom Penh. During the changeover from Wet to Dry Season (and back again), the water direction of the Tonle Sap River changes direction. This is connected with the annual Water Festival (soon to take place in Cambodia). Sam described how the colors of the rivers are different during these changeovers and I was reminded of my visit to Passau, Germany). When we arrived at the Royal Palace (1305), we started to encounter Buddhist monks, in orange outfits, carrying yellow umbrellas. Sam then told us that each day of the week has a color in the cultures of Southeast Asia and that orange and yellow were colors of calmness. During this time, Sam also pointed out other government buildings: Palace of Justice & Supreme Court. Once off of the bus, we used the "Happy Room" (restroom). Several other people in the group were annoyed that that there was absolutely no privacy (women could see everything going on in the men's bathroom). Undaunted, I finished my business and rejoined Sam in a commentary about a nearby cannonball tree. which has a new flower every day for the entire year., For some reason, though, the Magnolia is the National Flower. Next, we toured the Palace grounds - we were able to go inside the throne room (no photos allowed) and visit two exceptional stupas that housed the ashes of prior Kings of Cambodia. The current King was actually present inside the complex - a blue flag indicates when he is at home. Overall, the building colors, floral varieties and priceless artwork left me awestruck. We also got to visit the Silver Pagoda (no photos), which had a floor of pure silver, a jade Buddha and a "golden god" statue weighing168 pounds and covered with diamonds. Wow! Meanwhile, it got VERY hot. On the way out of the Palace, we met Sam’s mother she was working as vendor at Palace. Since we’d earlier heard about her heroic attempts to save her children from the ravages of the Khmer Rouge, we all gave her a round of applause. Sam was very moved, I think, and proceeded to tell us about his wife and daughter as soon as we were on the bus again (1310). Our ride didn't last long, though, and we were next dropped off (for lunch) at Malis (a restaurant) at 1315. This place was actually listed in my travel book as a “not to miss” - glad to get a chance to see something so world-renowned... The menu consisted of a passion fruit aperitif, Scallop with green peppercorns; Amok Fish with lemongrass curry paste in banana leaf basket; jasmine rice steamed inside lotus leaf bag; Palm Set dessert (coconut ice cream, Fried Ombuk Cake, Sugar Glutinous rice balls) & Angkor Beer. Everything was excellent! We departed the restaurant at 1415 (15 minutes later than Sam wanted) and drove to the Central Market (we arrived at 1430) and were given 30 minutes for shopping. Almost everyone was very excited about this opportunity but I only gave the market a cursory walk-through. I found it interesting that none of the vendors approached me - what a difference from Hong Kong and all of Vietnam... It was SO hot! Next, I walked in streets nearby and stopped for a cold drink at 53 Central Coffee. I ordered an iced lemon tea without thinking about the ice cubes inside of the drink - we'd been warned NOT to get those under threat of stomach distress. Oh well - this was like drinking from the mountain streams in Patagonia... I rejoined Sam at the bus-stop by 1455 and we departed the Central Market by 1500. Our visit to Phnom Penh was over, unfortunately. There was a lot of traffic on the way out of the Capital - we used Highway 4 but didn't really get moving again until we were clear of the "Dry Port" again. Along the way, I watched as we passed lots of [Brahma] bulls and various fruit trees (rubber, mango, coconut). About halfway back to the "Wet Port", we stopped at a rest area (1705) that had views of National Park. I climbed up on a roof and got a good view of a nearby waterfall. During this stop, I talked with Sam about the process of taking a ferry to the Southern Islands and he made it sound very easy. In fact, he shared all kinds of information (port number, cost, destination and times for the outbound and return trips) and I was hopeful that I could make the trip happen (the area sounded wonderful and unspoiled). Back on the road by 1715, we were treated to a beautiful sunset and more stories from Sam: "Life of a Buddhist Monk", tales of Cambodian elephants, snakes and foods like "KFC" (Khmer Fried Cricket). Undeterred by talk of such things, I ate a late afternoon snack (ham & cheese baguette, soda) that was distributed by “Sraeling”. As the excursion was coming to an end, I was convinced that Sam was the best tour guide I’ve seen so far. His passionate descriptions of the travails of his people were almost mesmerizing and his personal anecdotes about life under Pol Pot, the heroic sacrifices of his mother, the death or disappearance of beloved family members and the long, slow process of national healing kept us spellbound during the entire drive. We arrived at Viking Venus (1830) and, almost immediately after I boarded the ship, I tried to get information from the ship's crew about going to the Southern Islands. They were very resistant and defensive about me trying something "so unusual". As a result, I gave up my idea... A bit disappointed, I went to my room to relax - finally got internet working again! I was torn about getting dinner (since we'd eaten enough during the excursion) but I decided late (2000) that I'd head to World Cafe for desserts and wine. At 2040, I attended the Traditional Khmer Music Group and was quite impressed by their skill in demonstrating dances, along with excellent instrumental and vocal expression. I stayed for about 15 minutes and then walked around the ship to complete my 10K step goal. I took one break for Mahjong and viewing of an animated Bayeux Tapestry cartoon. In my room again at 2130, worked on blog and social media updates before going to bed at 2245. What a great day trip - very glad I went into Phnom Penh! We’ve got one more day in Sihanoukville - hoping to go to the beach...
