South America Trip - Day 14

Los Glaciares National Park Day 4!  Somehow, I’m still not sick yet.  Most of the rest of the group except for me, Janice and Kathy have come down with the nagging cough - two of the older guys have missed several days of events.  Earlier, I thought this cold may have traveled with us from the USA but now it appears to be widespread in El Chalten (other hikers have it).  Riding in the van and sitting near people in restaurants has made me feel sure I’m next but, perhaps, the exercise I’m getting every day in the mountain air is counteracting the other factors.  My day started a bit later (woke at 0630) and I met everyone for breakfast (cereal, fruit, eggs, meat/cheese sandwich) in the El Barranco lobby at about 0715.  By 0800, we (12 members of the group) loaded up in the van for our day’s adventure on the north end of the National Park.  Actually, we crossed the official park boundary (on to private land) again, drove north of El Chalten for about 40 km and arrived at the southern end of Lago del Desierto at around 0920.  One thing that was completely different about today was the fact that our driver (Augustin) had brought a huge trailer full of mountain bikes!  After parking at the Base Camp for hikes to Glaciar Huemul, we first took a short walk to an overlook over the lake.  At that point, we were only about five miles from the Chile-Argentine border but the crossing was only accessible by boat (and then by foot) in the summertime.  Luis told us that a location nearby was the scene of a small but violent skirmish between border patrol teams on November 6, 1965.  The situation eventually led to rapport and resolution, fortunately, but is still remembered as an unnecessary tragedy.  Back at the van, Augustin and Julie helped fit us with all the gear we needed for our 20 km bike ride.  Our guides provided brand new (18 speed) mountain bikes (complete with a modern shock absorber system), helmets, biking gloves, water bottle and reflective belts.  After a safety brief from Luis, we were ready to go!  At first, I had some trouble with the bike I’d been given - the seat was too low (I fixed that) and the brakes made loud squealing sounds when applied.  For the latter problem, I ended up having to wait for our “Sag Wagon” (Augustin) to help - he ended up giving me a different bike that worked just fine afterwards.  Armed with new equipment, I made my way towards the front of the group (Ed led the way and Janice/Kirk, Shelly/Tony followed close behind).  Unlike most of my previous mountain bike rides (on nice crushed stones or pavement) the riding surface was made out of huge stones that probably came out of the river.  Rolling over them was rather unpredictable and I had to concentrate A LOT (result = few photos).  But I eventually got the hang of things. We made stops at several waterfalls (one had some pretty red flowers called “tears of the stream”) and at a memorial for the 1965 conflict.  After that, though, Luis gave us free reign in a few places and those of us who bike more often had a great time racing on the gravel roads.  We did have to watch out for oncoming cars but we successfully avoided problems.  Our weather was great (50s and clear), scenery was awesome (high peaks on either side of the valley) and the bikes worked well (by the end, I was digging the shocks!).  After passing Laguna Condor, we began to watch for signs of the Huemules Reserve, a private resort (and residential) area near the road crossing of the Rio Electrico.  When the front-runners arrived (1245), Luis showed us where to put our bikes and where our group picnic would be.  After everyone else (including our van) arrived, Augustin and Julie set up a huge lunch spread.  While they were busy, we walked to the Huemules main building so we could take a tour of their museum.  Inside, we found a very nice series of displays that covered the natural sciences (and some local history) of the Reserve.  By 1315, it was time to eat and we got to enjoy a typical Argentinian picnic: fruits, empanadas (meat and veggie), assorted meats and cheeses, chocolate and potato chips.  Topping off the meal was a big can of Imperial Lager (Cerveza Extra), an Argentinian beer.  At about 1430, Luis and Alvaro suggested that we begin our second planned event in the area: a hike to the Laguna Azul and Laguna Verde.  We just had to walk west on a gravel road until we reached the trailhead and from there we had about 40 minutes of climbing.  It started to sprinkle a little bit but I stayed mostly dry under the good tree cover of the forest.  At the top of the climb (a long ridge), we could see a lake with a deep blue color that sat at the foot of snow covered mountains.  On the other side (towards the east), we saw a dark green (almost emerald) pond with lots of reeds in it.  Luis told us the different colors were the result of lake depth and sediment density.  We soon headed downhill and circled back towards the van by a different route.  During our circuit, we saw lots of flowers (including our third kind of orchid), several kinds of birds (many ducks) and more of the large European Hares that seem so ubiquitous.  We also crossed a few torrents (almost waterfalls) on rickety, one-person-at-a-time, suspension bridges - yikes!  I quizzed Luis about some of the animals and he told me about two invasive species (the beaver and a mink-like mammal, both from North America) that were wreaking havoc in Patagonia.  Later, I practiced more Spanish with Julie and got tips about travel in Buenos Aires from both her and Alvaro.  At the bottom of the hill, we reunited with our driver and a few folks that hadn’t taken the hike.  We then started the 40 km drive back to El Chalten (on the way, I had another beer).  JoAnne was sitting near me and she told me all about her home in Western New York, Shelly & Tony made more specific plans with me regarding our trip to Uruguay and Kathy shared some of her Australian licorice.  By 1645, we were at the hotel - Alvaro was having trouble with the restaurant reservations but told us to meet him in the lobby again at 1855.  I cleaned up and checked on some of my travel plans.  When our group reconvened, we just had to walk a short distance to the restaurant, La Ceverceria Chalten.  Alvaro had been talking about it since we arrived and I soon understood why: in addition to serving delicious Italian food (most of the workers, and much of Argentina for that matter, are of Italian descent), the restaurant made their own beers (in the Czech style).  For dinner, I ordered one of their Bocks, some fried cheese to share with Kirk & Janice, a ravioli made with spinach (inside and outside) and an apple crumble.  Our server proudly added a “shot-glass” of delicious soup as an apéritif and kept the beer and wine flowing.  Shaowen seemed relieved that we’d finished most of the planned active adventures and happily talked about how much he was looking forward to returning home.  Meanwhile, I became aware of a push by others to just depart El Chalten in the morning and arrive in El Calafate early.  I’d been hoping to do the last hike (Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado) in the morning before we left town but the group inertia was clearly shifting against this.  Fortunately, Alvaro squelched this mini-rebellion and those who didn’t want to hike were told to wait for us to return.  The weather isn’t supposed to be very good (for the first time in the entire trip) so we shall see which people were the smart ones… We paid for our drinks (2100) and we walked back to the hotel.  The temps had dropped noticeably (40s, with wind) so I was glad to have my fleece pullover.  In the lobby, I practiced my Spanish with a different clerk (who was from Buenos Aires) and paid for my laundry (2115).  In my room, I read a little bit before going to bed at the earliest time in over two weeks (2215).  Only one more day of trekking in Patagonia - I’ll be really sad to depart…

South America Trip - Day 13

Los Glaciares National Park Day 3!  Each morning on this trip, I’ve awakened with the belief that I’ve already seen all the best highlights of Patagonia and the rest of the trip is just “gravy.”  And, every evening when I go to bed I realize that I was wrong.  The Active Adventures staff, both in New Zealand and in Chile, have created such an outstanding itinerary that every day holds an even bigger surprise!  I was awakened by the gentle glow of the Dawn (0530) and got ready for one of our longest hikes of the trip: 20 km (~13 miles).  I went to the lobby for breakfast (cereal, bread, meats, cheeses and fruits) at 0645 and then met the nine other members of our group who’d chosen to do the hike (along with our guides: Alvaro, Luis and Julie) at 0730.  Our van driver took us north from El Chalten, following Rio de Las Vueltas (along a gravel road), for about 20 km until we reached a parking area at the crossing of the Rio Blanco.  Only a little way into this trip, we left the National Park and found ourselves on private land.  Fortunately, the public has still been able to access the trails in this area without difficulty.  Our hike began at around 0815 and we hiked southwest across a long valley below the peaks of the Andes.  At first, the wind (coming from the west, off the ice field on the Chile-Argentina border less than 10 miles away) was rather strong - this, coupled with the cooler temps (40s) made me layer up (short sleeved shirt and light jacket).  Our trail paralleled the river and we got several amazing views of Fitz Roy as the sun rose higher in the sky.  Luis told us about the names of several peaks, and included a description of how the native peoples had called all mountains that had clouds wreathed around them (like Fitz Roy on most days) “Chalten” - this meant Smoky Mountain.  We saw, first hand, this effect.  For parts of the hike, I walked in the back of the pack with Alvaro and Julie.  The former told me about his love for the Lenga tree (it has a lifelong symbiotic relationship with a kind of termite that eventually hollows it out until the tree falls) and pointed out examples of the Magellan Woodpecker.  The latter asked to practice her English with me and I found myself speaking Spanish in return (I believe this really entertained Luis and Alvaro).  Along the way, we reentered the National Park and joined the El Pilar Trail.  We filled up several times on water from the river and stopped for a snack at the amazing view of the Piedras Blancas Glacier.  The trail was rather easy, with only a few steep spots, until we reached the Poincinot Camping area.  We were given a chance to “bail out” from the optional climb to Laguna de Los Tres at this point but only one person decided to head back to El Chalten with Alvaro.  The rest of us used the facilities (we saw many privies in the park but they only had a hole in the floor…).  From the campsite, we started a 2 km climb to one of the closest viewpoint for Fitz Roy and the glaciers on/near it.  At one point, Luis said we could continue without him (“I’ll catch up”) and we took this to mean we could go at our own pace.  As a result, I put on the “afterburners” and powered my way (without stopping) to the top.  By leaving my English speaking group behind, I found myself in a different world of communication - but I liked being able to lightly converse with the many Spanish speaking hikers I passed on the way.  I was at the high point (after navigating a false summit) just after 1200 and was blown away by the view.  WOW!!!! I’d thought Torres del Paine was unique in its features but the Fitz Roy peak, glacier and lake were just as impressive.  A bit later, the rest of the group started to arrive - eventually, everyone made it!  Meanwhile, I ate lunch (chicken sandwich with dried tomatoes and peppers, pumpkin empanada, nuts, chocolate and a membrillo pastry) and watched the clouds rolling up (east) from behind Fitz Roy.  Turning around completely, I could see the entire route of our hike through the Rio Blanco Valley, back to El Chalten.  Again, Wow!  By 1300, Luis told us we were allowed to backtrack down hill and a few of us made good time to the rallying point at Camp Rio Blanco.  It took a while for everyone else to get there but we eventually started hiking (together) towards town (southeast).  I’ve noticed that the W Trek group has usually been in the front of the hikes while the other seven trail well behind - today was no exception.  Along the way, several of us started singing “99 Bottles of Beer” (our minds were already on celebrating at the end) and got a smile from Luis (we also got applause from two hikers who passed us later and they asked where we’d be performing later in the evening).  Other highlights in this part of the journey included spectacular views of the Andes, a pretty walk along Laguna Capri, seeing Palomito (white orchid), observing several wild hares and pretty thrushes, and hearing Luis’ stories about local mountaineering adventures (his own and those of the climbers for whom many of the landmarks are named).  As we reached the “pushover” for the descent into town, Luis again gave us the green light to go as fast as we wanted.  Like an arrow from a bow, I picked up speed until I reached the pace I wanted - only Kirk and Janice stayed with me after that. Our downhill into the valley was actually kind of relaxing because the trail was wide and smooth.  Just after 1800, we rolled into town - 10 minutes later, we were in the hotel lobby.  What a hike!  Alvaro told us we had just over an hour before we had to leave for dinner so Kirk bought a round of beers (Andes Origen Roja) that we could enjoy until the rest of the group arrived.  Everyone was back by 1845 and we then scattered to our rooms to shower and change.  My clean laundry (washed and folded by the hotel) was in the room - very nice!  At 1915, our group walked down the Main Street to reach our restaurant, La Vineria Grill.  Alvaro had ordered ahead, so our pre-arranged dinner (empanada, salad, veggie lasagna and mousse) and drinks (another Roja and a glass of Malbec) came quickly to the table.  Everyone was in good spirits after our big hike and the conversation flowed freely.  We were finished at 2130 and walked back to El Barranco to get ready for bed.  I caught up on blogs and set up for the next day before heading to bed (2300).  Unbelievable day of exercise, achievement and views - this trip continues to impress!

South America Trip - Day 12

Los Glaciares National Park Day 2!  I slept well and was awake by 0630.  However, our group didn’t need to be ready to go until 0900 so I took my time packing and prepping for the day.  I went down to eat at 0745 and enjoyed another one of the Patagonia Queen’s breakfasts.  After that, I settled my bar tab from the previous night (0805).  Just under an hour later, I met the rest of our group and we boarded our travel van for the ride to El Chalten.  It seemed like we’d only been in El Calafate for a short time but it’s nice to know we’ll get another chance to visit before we leave Patagonia.  We headed east from the town and made our way to Ruta 40.  This road took us a lot of the way to our next destination but, like we’ve seen during other drives across the Pampas, everything is REALLY far apart.  The day featured clear skies and pleasant temperatures (50s).  After only about an hour of driving, we started to see the top of Cerro Fitz Roy - wow!  Alvaro said it was extremely unusual to see it so early in the drive - from there, though, the view got even more spectacular.  I listened to one of my audiobooks along the way and the first part lasted almost all the way to our mid-point stop at Hotel La Leona (1015).  We explored the place for about 15 minutes and learned the area was once used as a hideout by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.  Back on the road again, the Andes Range views got progressively better.  A short time later, we arrived at the edge of Lago Viedma (huge!) and switched to Ruta 23.  From there, our course was to the northwest - directly towards Fitz Roy.  We stopped briefly at the entrance to the National Park (Seccional Lago Viedma area) and then rolled into El Chalten at around 1200.  The place reminded me of several ski towns (Conway, Vail, Aspen) I’ve visited over the years but it billed itself as “Trekking Capital of the World.”  We checked into our hotel El Barranco and were issued an old fashioned key that was quite difficult to use. After getting settled, we met back in the lobby so we could meet our local guide, Luis.  He gave us a briefing about the town, the park and the activities planned for the next few days.  There was actually a hike (of about four miles) planned for 1300 but we convinced Alvaro to let us eat our box lunches (quiche, salad, fruit, nuts, brownie) first.  After that, we left the hotel and walked west on a gravel road.  Before long, we reached the trailhead for the Senda a Laguna Torre.  Luis told us about all the stops that were possible along the 9 kilometer trail but added that we were only going to visit the Cascada Margarita and Mirador del Torre (2.5 km away).  The hike from there wasn’t too stressful or difficult but it felt strange to be in the woods again after several days in town… Almost immediately, the six of us who had hiked the W Trek in Chile had left the other seven well behind.  Luis kept stopping to wait for the others and I’ll admit this was slightly frustrating.  We learned about the wild Huemules (endangered Patagonian deer) who live in the park and saw some early blooming yellow orchids.  About midway up the climb, Luis must have decided that some of us didn’t need to go slowly and he let us walk to the viewpoint alone (1445).  The vista was spectacular!  From left to right (south to north on the compass), we saw Cerro Solo, the three peaks of Cerro Torre and the seven peaks of Cerro Fitz Roy.  Most had puffy clouds around their summits and several had glaciers on them.  We probably spent about 20 minutes taking in the view and marveling at yet another amazing stop on this unbeatable tour.  Several members of the group have told me all about their trip to Nepal and likened some of the views to things they’d seen there.  We reluctantly started back towards El Chalten and all expected to use the same route.  However, Luis steered us on a side trail that climbed a bit higher but also brought us back to town from an angle with a view of the entire Rio de Las Vueltas Valley below.  Along the way, he pointed out condors, upland geese and large hares.  We saw people scaling huge boulders (“glacial erratics”) and learned about climber culture of the town.  By 1630, we descended into El Chalten and used gravel streets to reach the hotel.  We were allowed about two hours to get cleaned up and rest - I used some of this time to submit my laundry for washing (at the front desk) and practice my Spanish with the clerk.  Some other members of the group went shopping.  At 1830, I met Alvaro and the rest and we walked over to Patagonicus, our restaurant for the evening.  They weren’t expecting us until 1900 so I bought everyone a round of beer (1855) - the only choices were IPA and Amber but everyone was happy to try another new drink.  After we were seated, Alvaro offered to order our dinner because the house specialty was pizza - no one objected and he made several excellent choices. Alvaro claimed that he’d “invented” (by ordering it specially at one time) the one we got with fried eggs on top - he seemed genuinely hurt that the restaurant hadn’t called it “The Alvaro”… Most of the conversation involved the difficult hike (13+ miles) scheduled for the next day and I learned that several members of the group had already decided against going.  Actually, the early dinner was apparently planned as such to give everyone time to hydrate and rest before the challenging trek.  As a result, everyone was on their way back to the hotel by 2030.  I chatted with Klaus, Alvaro and Shaowen until about 2100 and then did some reading before it was time for bed (2230). Today was another awesome day of exploration and spectacular views - the itinerary on this tour has been wonderful!

South America Trip - Day 11

Los Glaciares National Park Day 1! Today’s plan included a trip to the world-famous Perito Moreno Glacier (in the Seccional Glaciar Moreno area of the park).  Because it was so close to El Calafate, we had a late departure.  As a result, I woke up at my normal time (0530) but lounged in my room until 0730.  After that, I headed down to eat a filling breakfast, complete with small plates of various items (meats, cheeses, bread, fruit, etc.) on little Saran-wrapped plates.  Almost none of our group was there and I was done before most arrived.  Since we planned to return to the Patagonia Queen Hotel in the evening, I packed only a day pack for our excursion.  The van (2022 Mercedes) arrived at 0900 and we met Mariano (driver) and Christian (guide).  After departing the hotel, we made a brief stop at a marshy point along the waterfront (shores of Lago Argentino) and got some photos.  We then drove about 80 km to the Los Glaciares National Park.  Christian gave us a lot of information about the local economy, the geology of the mountains, the effects of the glaciers on the surrounding areas and watershed.  I was impressed to learn that the local salmon make a spawning journey of 400 km.  Even more interesting were the comments about Perito (“Expert”) Moreno, a Nineteenth Century Argentinian scientist and diplomat whose efforts added about 400,000 square kilometers to his country.  Though the government rewarded him with land, he donated it back to them for public use.  As a result, he was honored with the naming of the glacier.  Overall, the energy of the guide and driver was fun and happy and the ride went very quickly as they joked and taught us about the Santa Cruz Province.  After entering the park, we stopped at a high point which allowed us to get our first view of the glacier.  All I can say is WOW!  Compared to the Grey Glacier, Perito Moreno is bigger and has many more surface variations.  Perito Moreno towers many more meters above the water and has even more volume that isn’t visible above the surface.  As we got deeper in the park, we passed through forests of Lenga trees - very pretty.  Eventually, we reached a parking area for the main entrance into the trail system that allows visitors to get quite close to the glacial action.  I helped a few young Americans with group photos (they returned the favor) and then (1030) all 13 members of our group proceeded into the viewing area.  The trail system (renovated in 2009) of metal walkways, very nice railings and colorful blazes (circles or dots) is amazing.  The whole place seemed extremely accessible and probably will help to ensure that the park remains the second most visited park in the country for years to come.  Christian allowed us a lot of freedom to move through the trails and we got many impressive views.  From time to time, huge pieces of the glacier would loudly fall from the edges into the water - it was an unmistakeable sound of Nature’s power.  We paused several times to try to get photos but it was like watching a pot boiling.  In the end, only a few patient folks got photos when the “magic” happened.  At around noon, we stopped at an overlook and ate our box lunches (sandwich, hummus, quiche, nuts and candy).  If you haven’t guessed by now, we eat REALLY well… A young couple asked to share a bench with me and I learned they were Daniel and Niamh, newlyweds from Ireland.  We talked for a while about their adventures and only said goodbye when my own group started moving again.  From this point, we worked our way down the glacier (south to north) from the Brazo Rico, through the Canal de Los Tempanos to the main channel of Lago Argentino.  We were SO close at times - it was incredible!  But we also got some birds-eye views and were able to make comparisons of scale with the tour boats and kayakers who approached the glacier itself.  We didn’t get to witness it but the glacier sometimes pushes into the bluff where the walkways are and, after enough water builds up in the Brazo Rico, ice tunnels/bridges form.  Eventually, the entire ice dam collapses in spectacular fashion.  This kind of event is rather rare but much attended by the locals whenever it is imminent.  Our walk wrapped up at Puerto F.P. Moreno and we relaxed in the cafe there for about 20 minutes until our van returned to get us (1400).  Mariano next took us to the Ferry Landing for the Brazo Rico and Christian bought us tickets for a boat ride to the south end of the ice field.  This was unexpected bonus and we were all happy to get a chance to see the glacier from another perspective.  We departed the landing aboard the “Andiperle” at 1430 and spent an hour on the waters close to Perito Moreno.  The onboard staff was quite good about providing information in both English and Spanish and we learned even more about the area on the way.  By 1530, we disembarked and rejoined Mariano in the van.  He then drove us the 80 km back to El Calafate.  On the way, I had an interesting conversation with Klaus and Kathy about their lives overseas (she’d been stationed at several good bases during her Navy Career).  By 1700, we arrived at Patagonia Queen Hotel and I was able to get the Argentinian Pesos that Alvaro had converted for me while we’d been gone.  I immediately used some of this to tip our guide and driver (1705).  Once inside the hotel, we were met by the owner (Rafael, good friend of Alvaro’s).  He provided champagne to us while he gave a short talk about the last two times the ice dam/bridge at Perito Moreno collapsed (2014 and 2018).  His videos were amazing and truly showed how amazing the glacier was.  We were then (1745) allowed some more free time (until 1915) - most people used it to shop but I spent it relaxing in my room.  I later joined Alvaro and a few others for the walk to our restaurant on Avenida Del Liberatador, a place called Nina.  We set up at around 1930 and were allowed to choose any appetizer and entree we wanted.  I ended up getting Duo de Empanadas, Tortellinis de humita and a side salad.  The restaurant had its own amber beer so I tried that.  Meanwhile, almost all the other guys got huge steaks - they just looked too big to me… While we ate, I talked a bunch with Ed, an engineer from the Bay Area whose grandmother had been interned in one of the Japanese relocation camps during World War II.  Having visited a few of those sites in the past, it was heartbreaking to hear Ed’s family story.  On a lighter note, one of the “community dogs” (looked like a border collie mix) came inside the restaurant and made the rounds.  Almost everyone petted on him and he was rewarded by the staff with some streak scraps.  These dogs sure have it good!  Dinner ended at around 2145 (it wasn’t even really dark yet!) and I headed back to the hotel via another circuit of the Avenida Del Liberatador shopping zone.  I encountered several crane-like birds that perched on high tree limbs and made a loud, mournful call (Alvaro later told me they were ibises).  I met Rafael in the lobby as I retired for the night and thanked him for making our stay a pleasant one.  Read in my room, sorted out my stuff and prepped for the next phase of our trip.  Tomorrow: Chalten!

South America Trip - Day 10

It’s hard to believe but my visit to Chile will be ending today.  I’ve absolutely loved the places I’ve seen and the people I’ve met!  The country seems like such a resilient place: even when economic or civil disturbances have emerged to destroy the Chileno way of life, the population of independent, friendly, resourceful and hardy souls have risen to the challenge.  Hopefully, this isn’t the last time I’m able to visit.  Our morning started early (0530), as usual, and I was packed for our drive into Argentina by 0630.  For the first time in days, I had a chance to relax and read a bit!  At 0715, went to breakfast and found that everyone else was already finished and waiting in the lobby.  Since I still had 45 minutes, I took my time eating the buffet, filling up on eggs, cereal, fruit, lunch meats and bread.  I noticed that Mass was showing on the TV - I know it doesn’t really “count” but it was nice to be reminded that it was Sunday… I joined the 12 other members of our Active Adventures group in the lobby at 0800 and we then headed outside with Alvaro to meet our driver, Paula.  As she arrived, she had a minor accident with another car and this delayed us briefly.  As we’d seen before, our group has a lot of stuff and we used the extra time to play Tetris with the bags.  Onboard the van, I realized it was much smaller than the one we’d used in Torres del Paine (my knees were touching the seat in front) and did not have any charging chords.  These things didn’t immediately bother me but our planned five (plus) hour journey eventually changed my mind… We departed Puerto Natales at about 0820 and passed by the Ultima Esperanza Sound - it was perfectly smooth and it was clearly portending another day of great weather.  On the down side, the seven members of the group who had done the “Experience” tour were all coughing and hacking (one was *really* under the weather).  I’d noticed one of them had a light cough when we’d previously traveled with them but it seemed inconsequential.  Obviously, the cough was contagious and we will now see if it spreads beyond their family… We drove north on Ruta 9 for just over an hour while Alvaro told us interesting stories about geology, glaciology and local history.  We learned about wool production and salmon farming and more about the International influences (both good and bad), the boldness of the early pioneers (and their initial monopoly on all the farmland) and present-day government initiatives to vitalize the region.  Most of the time, we were driving through the steppe (Pampas) but we did get a few last glimpses of Torres del Paine.  Throughout the day, we saw many examples of Guanaco, Darwin’s Rhea, condor, flamingo (along with many types of domesticated animals).  When we reached the town of Cerro Castillo, we stopped at the Chilean border crossing.  We had to walk through a line (for a passport check) but were quickly on our way again.  We then proceeded through a gate and continued east on a gravel road (I believe it was called Y-205) to the Argentinian border crossing.  The “DMZ” area was actually rather large and it took a while.  Once we actually reached the entry point (Paso Rio Don Guillermo), our van had to wait for a while for us to get permission to get out.  Meanwhile, Alvaro told more stories!  We also watched a funny dog who obviously “ran the place.”  He wagged his tail and tried to get a pat from all the passengers on the bus ahead of us - cute!  Eventually, we were allowed to walk through another line for another passport check.  Unfortunately, I got no stamp… Despite the delays, we were done with all our paperwork by 1000 and were able to head east into Argentina.  The gravel road to Cancha Carerra was NOT fun (very bumpy).  But we eventually got on a paved road again and this took us to the (famous) Ruta 40 that went all the way to El Calafate, our ultimate destination.  Ruta 40 is actually an “S” shaped route and it took a LONG time of driving on the flat Pampas to find any real signs of civilization. Alvaro played some of his favorite music, to pass the time, and we eventually arrived in the small town of Esperanza.  While Paula got gas for the van, the rest of us walked across the road and bought food at Hotel Esperanza (1135).  Shelly and Tony treated some of us to drinks (I chose an orange Fanta) and I bought “Kit-Kat-like” candy bars to share with the group.  By 1145, we were back in the van for the last two hours of our drive.  Along the way, we ate our box lunches (large chicken sandwich, chocolate, energy bars, brownie) and entertained ourselves in various ways.  Kirk had, by this point, offered to switch his more comfortable aisle seat for the window seat I’d endured for the first half of the journey.  Several of the guys talked about politics for a little while (Janice and Shelly said they liked how their husbands had others to discuss this topic with).  We didn’t have any major disagreements because this seems to be a rather mature, pragmatic and respectful group.  We made one short stop (at El Mirador Tec. Julio Heredia “El Monito”) to get our first glance of the Rio Santa Cruz and Lago Argentino before we drove the rest of the way to El Calafate.  By then, we could see the amazing backdrop of the high Andes on the Argentinian side of the border - breathtaking!  We checked into the Patagonia Queen Hotel and 1400 and I ended up resting and doing “laundry” in the sink (because the laundry-mat was closed) until 1530.  I then walked down the main street (Avenida Del Liberatador) to meet Kirk, Janice, Shelly and Tony.  There were a lot of interesting businesses to see and lots of folks walking around.  The place reminded me of a ski town and it was clear that the clientele is mainly the types of people who visit Patagonia for outdoor fun.  When I arrived at Cerveza Patagonia El Calafate (Patagonia Brewing Company), they were one round into their beers.  I was interested in getting a “flight” and we tried to communicate this to the waiter.  What came, however, was four little tasters of Vera IPA, Bohemian, Chocolate and Kilometro 24.7.  I made the best of things and decided that, from among the four, I liked the 24.7 the best - the waiter brought me a “small pint” after that.  The atmosphere was great (especially with the dogs) and we had fun doing some people watching.  The character of the country and people already seems totally different from Chile.  There are many more people, that’s for sure… Meanwhile, our waiter left at this exact moment and we ended up having a heck of a time resolving the billing issues with the new waitress.  In the end, I was told (she used Google Translate) that my samplers were free!  I paid very little, in the end, for some great tasting beers (1655).  The couples wanted to do some shopping so I walked back alone (I took the “scenic way”) towards the hotel.  I did do some window shopping of my own and practiced Spanish (got maps) at the headquarters of the Los Glaciares National Park Visitors Center on the way.  I found a statue that memorialized the Peron family near the hotel.  After reaching my room, I rested some more until it was time to meet the group in the lobby (1830).  Alvaro guided us from there, down the length of Avenida Del Liberatador, to our restaurant (La Tablita).  When we arrived (1900), the place was mostly empty.  Alvaro coordinated a huge meal in the Asado (BBQ or Family) style.  The food then started coming out: salads, fries, fried cheese and (most importantly) three huge trays (with charcoal burning underneath) of meat.  From that moment, we quickly devoured huge cuts of beef, lamb and other kinds of carne.  Several bottles of Malbec accompanied the food.  I tried everything and it was good.  The rest of us had fun watching Kirk and Shaowen practically clear the table with their ravenous appetites. Several other members of the group told us about how they had found a rodeo nearby - they had videos of several tricks performed by the gauchos. At the end, no one else had room for dessert but, when I asked to sample some of them, Alvaro arranged for me to get small amounts of Dulce de Leche, Flan and Crema.  Everyone else just watched as I tried each - they were all awesome.  Afterwards, we all walked back to the hotel (2100).  I later met Alvaro, Kirk, Janice, Shelly, Tony and JoAnne at the hotel bar for another glass of Malbec (2115).  We talked for a little while and watched some of the Argentinian Football National Championship Game.  I finally went to bed at 2230.  We didn’t do a lot to day but it was still quite memorable.  Looking forward to seeing more of Patagonia tomorrow!

South America Trip - Day 9

Torres del Paine National Park Day 5!  In my Active Adventures Itinerary, there was an option scheduled for this morning called “Touch the Ice”.  It cost extra but I, like the rest of our group, had hoped to get up close and personal with Grey Glacier.  However, Alvaro told us that the experience didn’t involve anything more than a cursory visit to the ice.  A few days ago, he mentioned that there was another option (an ice hike) and that he might be able to coordinate it for us.  We all agreed and awoke with high expectations after learning (last night) that the upgrade was approved.  I was awake by 0545 and quickly got ready, excited to try yet one more amazing activity in Chile!  Our group convened for breakfast (cereal, yogurt, scrambled eggs, bread) together, starting at 0700.  We encountered our first truly rude person (Karen?) of the whole trip, an English-speaking lady who was harassing the staff.  Alvaro attempted to smooth ruffled feathers but was then asked “are you the police?” Our group sat, uncomfortably, until the lady stormed away - sheesh… Everyone else was soon ready to get the day started!  Unlike other mornings on this trip, we didn’t have very much extra time to relax. I did get to talk briefly with a young guy who was getting close to finishing his full circuit of the O Trek - he seemed to have had a great time.  Soon afterwards (0730) our group convened (with all our gear) outside the Grey Refugio so we could make the 10 minute walk down to the Big Foot Adventure Center (“Base Camp”).  The air was crisp (40s) but the sky was clear.  At 0745, we checked in for our Ice Walk on the Grey Glacier!  After filling out more waiver forms, we paid a small fee to upgrade our “Touch the Ice” experience to “Hike the Ice”.  We were issued a small backpack with our gear: helmet, harness and crampons.  Our transportation (open Zodiak boat) arrived at the rocky “harbor” by 0800 and we quickly boarded.  By this point, I had layered up (three, including my winter coat).  Actually, it was nice to use more of the equipment I’ve been lugging around for several days… The ride was very quick because there was (again) almost no wind at all and the water was almost perfectly still.  As we had yesterday, dodging icebergs was required to traverse the lake safely.  The “landing” was a steep (45 degrees!) slab of scratched granite but we were able to get off the boat without mishap.  Only 20 years ago, this location was deep under the glacier but (like the Torres and Frances glaciers) it had dramatically receded in recent years.  Perhaps the most impressive thing within view from our granite perch was the deep blue edge of the Grey Glacier - jagged, craggy icebergs leaned precariously over the water only about 100 yards away.  Obviously, avoiding this kind of danger had dictated the location of the place were passengers could disembark… Our next challenge was to climb across the rocks and start a steep ascent to the (northeast side) of the glacier surface.  This probably took about 15 minutes and then our group paused in a muddy clearing to begin putting on our gear.  Figuring out how to don the helmet and harness was not too difficult.  However, we each needed assistance in putting on the crampons.  With my big feet, this was even more challenging for the poor guide… We received a safety brief, which included a lot more detail once we were issued our ice axes (yikes).  But, after only another 15 minutes, we stepped a few feet away and we’re on the ice.  What an amazing sensation!  I’ve been on an iceberg that was floating in the ocean and seen some glaciers from scenic viewpoints but have never tried navigating or walking on the surface of one.  It took a while to get used to the equipment but we mostly stayed in a long conga line of ice trekkers.  Our guides were very friendly and helpful - one (Simon) was very interested in traveling to Yosemite and quizzed me about it.  In several places, we saw deep, water filled holes in the ice and peered deep inside them (bottomless!).  Even bigger crevasses posed problems for us but, again, our guides kept us on a safe course.  At one point, we encountered a Patagonian Dragon (scientific name is andiperla willinka), a tiny insect that loves the glacial water and is a sign of its purity.  We saw a few pretty waterfalls on the vast expanse of ice and a few people filled up their bottles with some of the water (it had almost no taste).  As we continued across the ice, we were joined by a large bee (black, yellow and white) that checked out the backpacks of each hiker, right on down the line.  Alvaro told me later that this bee was an invasive species (from Argentina) that was wreaking havoc in Chile.  After walking a long way across the glacier, from the eastern edge of the ice to a place close to a large landmass (Nunatak Island) in the middle, we started our backtrack.  I was feeling quite comfortable with the equipment by this point but then one of my crampons broke.  Fortunately, Simon was carrying a spare and I soon rejoined the group.  By then, we’d reacted a cool ice tunnel that allowed each of us to try a bit of glacier spelunking.  From there, we quickly made our way back by to the gear staging spot.  By then, another tour group had arrived and a different Zodiak was waiting at the base of the ravine to take us back towards the Grey Refugio.  Somehow, we all made it safely to the bottom of the rocks and boarded our boat.  After that (1200), it was a very quick ride back to Big Foot Adventure Center.  We disembarked and returned all our gear and I also left tips for the Big Foot guides’ outstanding support yesterday and this morning (1230).  After retrieving my backpack, I enjoyed some “alone time” while I ate my box lunch (chipped beef sandwich, orange, Toblerone) on a bench under a shady tree.  It was nice to relax after over three hours on the ice!  At 1315, our group got back together and walked a short distance to the Ferry Landing (I should say “Beach”) to wait for our ride.  The boat was late but we enjoyed sitting in the sand and talking about all our great memories of Torres del Paine. Catamaran “Lago Grey” finally arrived at the beach at 1350 and we quickly boarded (we loaded our own gear and stacked it on the deck near the bow),  The seven other members of our Active Adventures group were standing on the upper balcony when the boat initially “beached” - they started waving and cheering for us as we climbed aboard.  Once the W Trek group was settled in seats, our guides got us each a free “welcome drink”.  I decided to sample a cocktail called “Calafate Sour” (basically, a Pisco Sour with the added flavor of the Calafate Berry).  It came with an ice cube that had been chipped right off a large chunk of the glacier that was sitting on the deck!  We all relaxed and marveled at the sensation of being on our way back towards Puerto Natales after five days “off the grid.”  We also exchanged tales with the other members of our travel group.  As the ferry departed, it initially drove to the northernmost point of Lake Grey, giving the passengers a good look at the entire face of the glacier.  We made a full circuit, from east to west (including to the far side of Nunatak) before turning south. As the ferry proceeded across Lake Grey, I noticed several peaks and viewpoints that we’d passed during our W Trek. The catamaran had to be careful in several places to avoid large icebergs.  It took a lot less time to reach the southern end of the lake than I’d expected (maximum time is advertised at three hours) and we were beached again by 1530.  With the gangway in place, everyone disembarked and we found ourselves in the middle of a huge, rocky beach.  Only then did the talk of a “hike” to the parking lot make sense… Carrying our full backpacks again, we walked for around 2.5 km.  Those of us who had hiked the W Trek, out of habit, followed Chris and soon (unintentionally) found ourselves well in front of our seven “Experience” friends.  We joked later that Chris had been previously holding back (on our account) and had high tailed it for the exit without thinking of us at all (this idea made all of us, even him, laugh).  At Grey Station (1615), we found a convenience store and cafeteria - most of us took the liberty of picking up food to eat during our drive home (1630).  I’d been hoping to get some souvenirs but everything was too big, unfortunately…  By 1645, we were on the bus (with our driver, Gerardo) again, ready to head back to civilization (this made me a bit sad).  It took a long time to get all the bags in the vehicle (and trailer) and several seats needed to be used to fit everything.  As we left the parking area, I noticed that everyone’s phones had started buzzing and chiming - mine had been in airplane mode for almost five days so I switched it on.  I found 300 emails, lots of texts and other notifications (sigh).  Reluctantly, I settled into email triage mode…  Meanwhile, almost everyone else (especially those who had paid for internet each day) settled into a nap.  Fortunately, I was saved from looking at a screen for two hours when one of the guides sitting next to me (Camilla) started asking about our hike.  She’d been with the other group of travelers but had done her own W Trek previously.  From this point, we had a very interesting conversation, ranging in topics between the immediate experience of an Active Adventures Tour (her first), visiting glaciers in Chile and the US, travel, North Patagonia activities, Chilean politics and life experiences.  The drive went by so quickly that I suddenly noticed we were entering Puerto Natales!  The weather there was completely different from our previous visit: sunny, warm (low 80s) and windless.  We got out of the van at around 1845 and immediately were able to check into our (old, same) rooms at Hotel Natalino.  I retrieved the bag I’d left behind and spent a little time organizing and repacking.  I had to return most of my hiking gear (first, I had to check a lot of pockets in the backpack!)… Alvaro also gave us a chance to add money to a tip envelope for our driver (1855).  Once done with the urgent items, I took my first “real” shower in five days!  Overall, I felt rather tired but had to resist sleep until we’d finished our planned activities for the day.  At 1945, the group reconvened in the lobby and we walked together towards the restaurant where our “Celebration Dinner” was going to take place.  Several members of the group had asked Alvaro where they could buy some of the spices we’d been eating at the Refugios and he took us to a nearby wine shop to search for them.  When we arrived, we learned that his wife had been responsible for planning, designing, stocking and managing the store until very recently.  The place was truly impressive!  Since we needed to meet our group and start our meal by 2000, we didn’t stay long and proceeded toward the waterfront.  After seeing so many dogs wandering around Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas, we asked Alvaro if they were community dogs.  He replied that they were well loved and fed (and even taken to the Vet) by the locals.  Watching them wag their tails almost everywhere they go is good for the soul… A little while after this conversation, we were all seated at Cafe Kau for our special dinner.  The menu included (breadcrumb covered) blood-sausage balls, an entre of lamb chops over risotto and a dessert of homemade brownie a’la mode.  Everything was delicious!  The meal included a Pisco Sour for each dinner and a bottle of wine for groups of four to share.  Chris told us the story of the wine we were drinking (“El Gozador” Camenere): all vineyards around the world had supposedly lost the grape during plagues/fungus but one vineyard in Chile had, unknowingly, preserved the variety for many years.  It wasn’t until a vintner from France visited to sample some that the “lost” type was “rediscovered”.  Our guides had arranged the seating so we could spend one more evening with our Trek or Experience friends - but also so we could spend a little more time with our guides.  Our group of six had previously pooled our tips for Chris in Alvaro’s envelope and we also tried to verbally express our gratitude to him near the end of the meal.  Perhaps he does it all the time, but Chris told us he would remember what a great team we all were.  Normally a rather stoic person, he seemed visibly moved by the parting of friends and gave us hugs as we left the restaurant (2130).  It was nearly dark (beautiful sunset) by then and we had a nice walk (watching cats and dogs) frolicking in the streets. By 2200, we were in our rooms for the night (it took me another hour to go to sleep).  This was our last night in Chile - it has been such a great visit to this special country and I really hate to leave.  Tomorrow: Argentina!

South America Trip - Day 8

Torres del Paine National Park Day 4!  I slept alright but woke up to Shoawen packing his bag at 0550.  Not wanting to disturb our other roommates, I got my own stuff and took it out to the common area to get organized.  When I went outside, I found that the day was crisp and windless.  By 0645, other members of our group arrived and we got in queue for breakfast.  The buffet line took a while and wasn’t really very exciting: cereal with warm milk, cheese and ham on a roll, runny scrambled eggs.  One nice thing, though, was that they had good orange juice.  Alvaro again shared his special coffee and we all had a nice conversation.  By 0730, we were given some time to decompress before our hike - we didn’t depart Paine Grande Lodge until 0815.  It was strange (and a bit sad) to be starting the last leg (west side) of “W Trek”… The morning weather was cooler and I started the day with a long sleeved shirt and light jacket.  As we headed north, I initially spent time near the back of the group.  We hiked into a long box canyon that quickly blocked views of Lake Pehoe; we still had the massive image of Paine Grande as picture perfect scenery, though. After about a mile, the trail transitioned to a definite incline and we began to make our way towards the ridge above Lake Grey. It wasn’t windy at first and I started to really dread the increasing temperatures… We leap-frogged several other hiking groups and it was funny to be saying “hi” (most spoke English) to the same people over and over - we’d also been around a lot of them for the previous three days.  Actually, I’ve forgotten to mention that Chilenos are very friendly so it is considered rude not to say “hola” when passing on the trail.  That is a lot different than my experiences on the AT… While climbing, I asked Alvaro lots of questions about our surroundings.  He told me a lot about the geology of the canyon and pointed out more flowers and birds.  Alvaro later explained that he studies all kinds of sciences throughout the year in order to be able to answer members of the group.  Meanwhile, we started to see higher peaks (Punta Bariloche and Cumbre Central) high overhead to the east - the whole scene was quite pretty.  It started to warm up (60s) so we were able to shed a layer.  In a few places, we stopped to rest in the shade of small trees.  However, we didn’t get any water for over an hour because Chris said it wasn’t truly drinkable.  As we finally reached the crest of the hill we’d been climbing, we could once again view (to the south) Lake Pehoe.  Further on, we started to gradually see a series of glaciers to our east and north.  We wound through groves of trees and hiked up and down over rocky ledges.  In the distance, the snowy peak of La Sentinela, a huge mountain above Lake Grey and its glacier, became visible - this meant we were getting close to the end of the W Trek. One good photo stop in this area was at Laguna Los Patos.  There were many upland geese there but none of the cool steamer ducks, unfortunately.  More impressive, however, was when we (suddenly) reached a place where we got our first view of a large section of Lake Gray.  It was littered with many, many small icebergs (all a pleasant shade of light blue).  The wind in this area steadily increased until Chris stopped the group and advised us to layer up again (we all complied).  This was wise because, a short time later, we rounded a large hill and were faced with a full fledged gale!  But the views from this point were even more spectacular so it was worth braving the elements.  Gradually, the Grey Glacier (and another, distant ice field to the west) became visible - wow!  In places, we had to struggle to keep our balance as we fought our way forward against the wind.  However, the completion of the W, rest at the Refugio and a planned kayak excursion kept us moving.  At one viewpoint, we got photos and videos of the amazing scenery - like many others on this trip, this was an unbeatable image.  From there, we started downhill along an extremely rocky path.  It was so treacherous that Alvaro moved forward in our group to instruct us on the best hand and foot placements.  Eventually, we made our way into a more sheltered area and were greeted by little splashes of color: Calefate Berry Blossoms, waterfall flowers, sweet pea buds and many dandelions.  We also encountered some puma scat (but didn’t see any of the big cats).  The trail became much more gradual along the way but continued descending all the way to the end. We stopped a few times for glacial water (I’ve been really loving the whole experience of skipping the filter!). Finally, we caught a glimpse of the rooftops of the Grey Refugio.  After a little more walking (total for the day was around 12 km, or 7ish miles), we reached the front porch and realized the hiking was over.  I’m definitely feeling quite accomplished after walking around 40 miles (60+ km) in the wilds of Chile!  We got a high five from stoic Chris and, later, a fist bump from Alvaro.  Since we hadn’t brought a box lunch with us this morning, the next major order of business was to get some food.  Unlike the Paine Grande Lodge (buffet line), Grey Refugio set up a relaxing spread for our meal.  We started eating at around 1330 and enjoyed asparagus soup, Porotos con Riendas (beans and reins) with sausage and a good mousse.  Everyone was in excellent spirits and we chattered on for about an hour about our good memories from the W hike.  Afterwards (1500), Alvaro showed us to our rooms; this time we were in two bunk rooms that located right across the hall from each other (the two couples in one room and Shaowen and myself in the other). Alvaro then released us to our own devices for several hours and everyone took advantage of the time to get some rest.  By 1645, we reconvened in the lobby and walked down to the Big Foot Adventure Center (“Base Camp”), by the waterfront, so we could begin our kayaking trip to the Grey Glacier.  After signing some release forms and getting instruction on using the equipment (wet suit, waterproof jacket, cockpit seal, helmet, paddle), we headed down to the water.  We found tandem sea kayaks there - these are bigger and balanced differently than my normal ride (“Tequila Sunrise”).  Up to this point, I hadn’t really cared who was in the front or back but Janice (who’d been on this activity previously) suggested that I sit in the back because I had more kayak experience.  Shaowen enthusiastically agreed (he said he hadn’t enjoyed his only previous experience on the water).  As a result, I had to learn the process of moving the rudder pedals in conjunction with synchronized paddling.  After they launched us, I quickly got the hang of things but was now using a large number of different muscles than I had while hiking earlier in the day.  Fortunately, I’d done enough kayaking that I could keep a good rhythm and help Shaowen feel comfortable.  Our group of eight kayaks (there were also guides and several other folks who went kayaking with us) soon departed the launch area and paddled north towards the face of the glacier.  The sun was shining, the sky was clear and there was almost no wind at all.  As a result of the latter (unexpected) benefit, we only had two instances with waves: when boats passed.  Otherwise, the lake was smooth as glass and it allowed us all to float peacefully along and adjust to the sensations of being in a warm cocoon amidst ice cold water.  One of the guides, Joaquin, told me that my life expectancy in the water was only 10 minutes - I believe him because I submerged my hand to see how cold it was (brrrr).  We made our way through a maze of bright blue icebergs and smaller floating ice “rocks” - it was awesome to be so close!  However, we also had to keep our distance due to the constant threat of falling ice debris.  We pulled all the kayaks together at one point and made a big raft.  Joaquin later took photos of me and Shaowen then the group moved towards the eastern shore of the lake.  We got really close to a nice waterfall and some brave folks (not me) tried to paddle underneath.  Nearby, we saw a place where the melting icebergs seemed to go to “die” - there was a small field of broken pieces piled along the shore. Shaowen told me he’d had a great time on the trip because I’d made it fun for him - that made my day, actually.  The group returned to the Base Camp in single file (a bit of a challenge).  We were finished with our paddling adventure by around 1910 and spent a little time (after talking off our gear) with the staff, enjoying tea and cookies.  Soon after, we returned to our bunk rooms so we could shower and get ready for dinner.  At the bar, Alvaro bought me a beer (Astral Patagonia 508) and thanked me for encouraging the other members of the group throughout the W Trek and kayaking.  He told me that Chileans have a slang name for a person who has let themselves become wild at heart - “Bagual” - and he added that he believed I’d earned that title.  The whole group (including Chris) sat down to dinner (asparagus soup, beans and corn, chipped beef over rice, chocolate pudding) at 2000 and continued the happy, cheery celebration of those who have accomplished a rewarding task.  It took a bit of struggling with my limited Spanish to get the next round of Astral Patagonia 508 for myself and Alvaro (2045) but it was well worth the effort.  We’d seen (and discussed) a sign we’d seen on the W that said one hadn’t really been to Chile without drinking some of their wine.  I guess Shelly and Tony took this to heart because they later insisted on buying me a glass Chilean Cabernet-Sauvignon - it was quite good!  As the night was winding down (2200), I got help from the front desk (speaking Spanish) on where to look for the Southern Cross.  It wasn’t completely dark yet so I didn’t leave the bar immediately.  Instead, I talked more about dogs and travel with Kirk and Janice.  A bit later, I went outside to stargaze but found too many clouds.  Oh well… Returned to the room to find that no one else was coming to stay there and it was just me and Shaowen.  This was an unexpected bonus and I got to bed nice and early (2230), at least for this trip.  What a day!

South America Trip - Day 7

Torres del Paine National Park Day 3!  The ladies (Shelly and Janice) made a big deal about how all the guys (including me) had kept them up (snoring) all night.  They blamed the beer… For my part, I was out of bed at 0600 (felt rested) and was at breakfast (cereal, eggs, bread, orange) by 0700.  I tried some cucumber juice for the first time (it wasn’t bad).  We left Los Cuernos Refugio at 0815, carrying a full backpack again, and spent most of the morning walking to Frances Campground.  This route, again at the bottom of the W, took us along the edge of Nordenskjold Lake.  The temps were warm again but I wore a long sleeved shirt anyway.  Strangely, there was almost no wind again and Alvaro said he had never seen the lake without whitecaps. At one point along the way, we got to walk on a pretty beach composed of a mix of black (granite) and white (limestone) rocks.  We took a break near there and I tried to skip rocks.  From there, we climbed up to the ridge again.  Chris stopped us at one point so we could each sample Canelo (Winter’s Bark) seeds, the source of Canelo pepper.  They tasted pretty good!  After we passed the campground, we crossed several rickety bridges and paused in a few places for water bottle fill-ups of glacial runoff. We constantly intermingled with other groups (20 young ladies with porters, Yoga "ladies-only", etc.) all day.  After a few miles, we arrived at Italiano Campsite and Ranger Station.  The rangers were on strike so services were limited.  However, we were able to stash our backpacks there and this allowed me to only use a light day pack during next phase.  From the Ranger Station, we began a steady climb into the Valle Frances.  Obviously, this hike was easier with no pack but we encountered many spots that were extremely slippery.  I spent much of this time drifting back and forth within the group and learning more about history, geology and ecology from both Alvaro and Chris.  Overall, I thought this was a good climb…We took a break at an amazingly clear glacial spring water source and got some nice shade.  Meanwhile, it kept getting hotter (70s again).  Along the way, we could see the Paine Grande and lots of glaciers.  We learned from Alvaro that the Frances Glacier had receded several hindered yards/meters in the last 20 years.  By 1300, we reached Mirador Frances and ate lunch (chipped beef tortillas, energy bar, nuts, orange).  The picturesque spot was just as unbeatable as we’ve seen and I had no inclination to depart…We waited until about 1400 to descend and it was nice to have extra time to enjoy the spot.  By this point, I was tired of the slower pace.  Initially, I walked with Kirk and Janice - when we reached the glacial water break point again, we stopped briefly.  After that, we pushed on ahead and I started nipping at Chris’ heals.  I think he got the message because we picked up the pace and arrived at the Ranger Station well ahead of the others.  We took another break - this time in the hot sun - and then repacked at the Italiano Campsite and Ranger Station.  We finally got back in the trail, bound for Paine Grande Lodge… After almost a mile, we crossed a rickety suspension bridge (yikes) and the group began to spread out.  I stayed with Kirk, Janice and Shaowen as we made our way across several long boardwalks.  It was very warm (70s) and there seemed to be no respite from the sun.  At one point, I doused my hat in a creek we passed in an attempt to cool off - it helped a little… In the hills above us, we could see lots of evidence of forest fire damage.  Chris (and, later, Alvaro) told us stories about the sad day when some campers accidentally set the devastating blaze.  We took another break while sitting next to at nice creek and I snacked a bit more.  Before long, we resumed our walk along Skottsberg Lake and made the final push towards the shores of Pehoe Lake.  As the terrain began to get flatter, I started to want to go much faster.  Subtly, I tried to convince Chris (by staying very close to him) to speed up his pace and was pleasantly surprised that he did.  After that, we made great time!  We passed through several shallow valleys and also (finally!) started to get a cool, steady breeze.  Chris said that the lack of wind and warm temperatures were extremely rare for this time of year and added that he was surprised by the stretch of three consecutive days of nice weather.  Near the end of the hike, we crossed a final ridge and got an amazing view of Lake Pehoe and, in the distance, the Paine Grande Lodge.  At around 1800, we completed our journey across the bottom of the W - we’d hiked 17 km (~10 miles) of terrain and positioned ourselves for the last day of the Trek.  At that point, some extra drama began: Alvaro (who had caught up with us at the end) figured out that there was a problem with the room reservations (they had apparently been “lost” during recent renovations).  The front desk tried to resolve the issue and gave us some free (“welcome”) drink tickets to ease the pain.  Alvaro told us that “in the worst case, we will sleep in tents.”  This would have been fine with me but most of the group was not pleased.  Ultimately, though, we all tried to make the best of the situation by recounting some of the many great experiences of the day.  I ordered an Astral Patagonia 508 (an ale) and found that I liked it even better than the Astral Calafate.  The Lodge experienced several power surges and this delayed the resolution of our lodging issue.  Fortunately, we were eventually able to join the (long) buffet line for an evening meal (1900).  This buffet format was much different from the way we’ve gotten used to eating.  Typically, we have all met at the table and the staff have brought the food to us.  However, the Lodge is located next to a very popular Ferry Landing and can sleep up to 150 people indoors; the flat land nearby also allows for many more campers.  Anyway, we enjoyed a nice dinner (rice, mashed potatoes, pork and gravy) and everyone started to feel better as the meal progressed.  Somehow, Alvaro worked out the bed situation and we got indoor lodging.  However, unlike the previous evenings, our group was spread out in deferent rooms.  Shaowen and I ended up in same bunk room (I got the top bunk) and the rest were in rooms across the hall from us.  I spent some time talking with the four other people in our bunkroom with California Dad/Daughter (Eastbound W) and older French couple (doing the same thing we were).  Before long, I realized that it was already 2115 - the days really fly by in Torres del Paine!  Since the sky was rather cloudless for first clear night of the trip, I decided to go outside to look at the stars.  I ran into Alvaro and Chris and we shared stories and jokes about our situation.  We also talked about the overall trip and trying to maintain a positive attitude for the group.  My own mood was pretty high, thanks to three straight days of hiking in the mountains, and I thanked our guides for all they’d done to make such a memorable experience.  They told me they were happy with how our group was flexible and easy going.  After that, they retired to their tents.  Resuming my search of the night sky, I was surprised to catch a glimpse of some StarLink satellites passing overhead.  The moon was bright and there were many stars - the dusky conditions made for some beautiful colors on Paine Grande… Unfortunately, I had no idea what the constellations in the southern sky looked like and, when tried to search the internet (there was one place in the area with a weak signal) for clues, I really didn't figure out the situation.  Shaowen arrived later (2145) to photograph the night sky.  During this time, the Lodge experienced more power surges and it was funny to listen to the groans and cheers from the people at the bar that corresponded with each cycle of lights off/on.  Ultimately, my attempts to find the Southern Cross were unsuccessful and I decided to try again another night.  Carefully, Shaowen and I made our way back to the room and got in bed (as quietly as we could) by 2300.  Another absolutely amazing day of sights, sounds, flavors and exercise!

South America Trip - Day 6

Torres del Paine National Park Day 2!  I slept alright but Shaowen did, as expected, wake everyone up with his sunrise photo quest.  As a result, I was wide awake by 0530.  As I got myself ready along with everyone else (most are early risers anyway), I listened to myriad opinions about the “best” hiking gear.  I mostly kept my thoughts to myself but I chuckled a bit to recall that the Ozark Trail boots I’d brought had seen a full Summer of AT hiking and were still comfortable.  The rented trekking poles and 60L backpack went along well with my own equipment and I managed to balance the load nicely.  Of course, not having to carry a lot of water makes a huge difference… Today, we were informed that we’d be bringing our full pack weight for the 12 km (~7 miles) hike (no places to leave gear) across the bottom of the W.  I hoped I’d have the stamina and energy to carry the load...  With this in mind, I met the rest of the group (0800) and ate the biggest breakfast (cereal, eggs, toast) I could.  There were some comments about snoring in our bunkroom but it seemed like everyone was recharged and ready for another hike.  After a good “preflight” briefing from Chris, we ended up leaving Las Torres Central Refugio at 1015.  This was much later than I would have liked and the sun was already pretty high as we headed west.  I wore a long sleeved shirt again, despite the heat (70s), and tried to stay hydrated.  I spent the morning at the back of the group and learned a lot about Alvaro’s life and philosophies.  One early highlight was watching the Refugio’s horses trying to catch up to us for a snack - if I’d had an apple, they probably would have convinced me to share… About a mile into the walk, we started hearing and seeing avalanches on Monte Almirante Nieto (located to the north of our route).  The awesome (and deadly) power of these slides was amazing to witness.  A little later, we passed through an area of low bushes where Chris told us we should be looking around to see if we could spot pumas, which had often been photographed in the area.  No luck on that front, unfortunately… A little later, we left the valley and ascended to a higher ridge that overlooked Nordenskjold Lake.  By this time, I made my way back to the front of the group and was walking with Chris when we encountered a spectacled duck (flying) and a steamer duck (diving underwater for fish).  Shortly afterwards, we began to see Fire Bushes, which had brilliant red colored flowers and covered the hillsides.  Chris stopped us for several short breaks to fill up on more glacier water - it’s nice not to have to filter!  We continued to encounter hikers going in the opposite direction but a larger problem developed in places were we approached (or were passed by) larger travel groups using the same route as us.  Eventually, many of the faces seemed familiar and we developed some backstories (“social media influencer”, “rock star”, etc.).  There were a surprising number of English speakers and (when I asked him) Alvaro said that most Chilenos can’t afford the expenses of visiting the National Park.  That seemed quite sad to me and I told our guides that they were quite fortunate to be able to work in such a spectacular setting.  By 1300, we’d reached a viewpoint (flat rock overhang) above the lake below and were allowed to eat our lunch (sandwich, nuts, energy bar, orange, chocolate) there.  About 30 minutes later, we continued on our way.  The rest of the hike included several river crossings with no bridges.  Several people got wet but I didn’t… I spent the rest of the afternoon walking with different folks in our group - every one of them had interesting stories to tell.  I also learned a bit of Chileno slang from Alvaro and Chris along the way.  Soon, we started seeing the prominent features of the Los Cuernos formation above us.  Like the Torres, the towering rocks seemed like paintings on canvas… We arrived at Los Cuernos Refugio at about 1615 and were able to check into our bunkroom very quickly.  This Refugio was much smaller than the Torre Central and only allowed for 40 beds. Like the previous evening, there were sleeping bags on the beds.  Unlike the night before, however, the room contained eight bunk beds, including two that were very tall (three levels).  For the second night in a row, I got a bottom bunk.  Bonus tonight:  Alvaro was able to stay with us (Chris spent another night in a tent). Since we were all feeling less tired than the previous day of hiking and had more free time, we hung out in the bar area and took turns buying pitchers of Astral Calefate beer for the group (1700).  Eventually (1900), we moved into the dining area to eat dinner.  The meal (zucchini soup, salmon and potatoes, rice pudding) was good and the conversion interesting.  No one was ready for bed yet, so we later returned to the bar to hang out some more.  I also spent a little more time practicing my Spanish and was able to use it to buy beer for me and Kirk (2100).  Our discussions about travel and US/Canada differences (and similarities) lasted until almost 2300.  After that, we went into bed for a well deserved night of sleep.  Another amazing day full of spectacular views and trail camaraderie!

South America Trip - Day 5

Torres del Paine National Park Day 1!  While I’ve got more than three weeks of activities planned on this trip, the next few days are the main reason I traveled to Patagonia. Wake-up time (0515) came very early… I was ready by 0600 and met the rest of the group at breakfast (in the hotel).  Most of us were groggy from lack of sleep but were excited about the planned excursion to the National Park.  Seven members of our group (the family from Las Cruces, NM and JoAnne) were going to be doing something called “The Experience”, which involved doing short hikes and staying in fancy lodges around the park.  The rest of us (Kirk & Janice, Tony & Shelly, Shaowen and myself) were geared up for four days of the “W Trek” and a visit to the Grey Glacier.  At 0700, we all checked out of the Hotel Natalino, loaded up our 20 person touring van (we were also towing a small trailer for all the gear) and got on the road.  In addition to the 13 members of the travel group, we had our driver (Gerardo) and four guides (Alvaro, Chris, Victor and Camilla).  Our route proceeded north from Puerto Natales to the National Park via Ruta 9 again but the terrain was totally different from yesterday.  Instead of empty plains, almost every vista was filled with huge, snow-capped mountains!  We saw many, many condors - one highlight of the trip was stopping to watch a huge group of them scavenging on a hillside close to the road.  Along the way, Chris told us about the area and we learned that Torres del Paine means “Towers of the Blue Land” in a local, aboriginal tongue.  It took a little more than two hours of driving to reach the main entrance to Torres del Paine National Park.  By then, we’d passed several overlook points near the famous Towers (for some reason, we didn’t stop at any of them).  After passing the entry checkpoint, the six of us (plus guides) who were hiking the W got dropped off at a small Refugio hut called Torre Norte, where we stowed about half of our gear (to lighten our backpacks).  We then picked up box lunches and got a briefing on park rules and trail etiquette.  Today, the plan was to hike the right (eastern) side of the W, from the Las Torres Refugio to Las Torres Base Viewpoint and back.  All told, this would ultimately involve a 20 km (~14 mile) trek.  By 1000, we were on our way!  Chris headed up our group and Alvaro brought up the rear; the accordion-like procession allowed for some flexibility in speed and enjoyment.  Temps started in the 40s but there was almost no wind.  Even though the conditions changed as we hiked, I never needed to layer up on hiking clothes (I was already wearing a long sleeved shirt).  The trail was mostly crushed rocks, with occasional washouts of mud - much of it reminded me of hiking in New Hampshire.  With only the northeastern side of the Towers in view from the valley, we commenced a climb of about 500 meters (~1500 feet) over the first few miles of the hike.  The park seemed busy to me (lots of other hiking groups were around) but Alvaro told me we should feel lucky that we’d just missed a day where there were over 1000 visitors in the park.  Kirk and Janice were consistently out front, while Tony and Shelly stayed near the back.  Meanwhile, Shaowen and I ranged around (mostly independently) in the middle.  I was very happy to spend time at either end of the group and ended up talking a lot to everyone during the course of the day.  After our initial ascent, we had to descend back down to the bottom of the Ascencio Valley.  This location of the hike was very pretty, with high-walls on both sides and a loud, roaring river in the middle.  Our first major stop was at the Chileno Refugio.  While there, we enjoyed the cool valley breezes (drying off some of the sweat) and our box lunches (sandwich, nuts, energy bar, orange, chocolate).  After about 30 minutes, we resumed our hike.  It was only at this point that I became aware of a deadline we needed to meet: the park requires all climbers to reach a checkpoint (below the Torres viewpoint) by about 1430.  We were on track to meet this but didn’t have a lot of time to spare.  The next phase of the Trek took us through a deep forest of trees - for the first time all day, we had some shade.  The trail grade was up and down for several miles and the only real change was when we passed a valley that was recently (only 10 weeks ago) created by a mudslide.  The power of the Spring Thaw was quite evident there because everything was completely washed away - yikes!  Meanwhile, across the valley, there was even more evidence of that kind of power - I watched the snow melt gushing off the highest peaks and flowing (in waterfalls of increasing size) down to the base of the valley.  A little bit after this, we passed the checkpoint (prior to the deadline) and came out of the forest into an exposed boulder field.  By then, it was windy enough to worry about footing but I did like the feel of the breeze.  I worked my way to the front of the group, walking with Chris, Kirk and Janice.  While steep, the whole hike to this point (nearly seven miles) hadn’t been much more difficult than a walk in the Whites.  I’m glad I had a good Summer of Trek prep!  We started to see a lot of people going the other way (i.e., back down) and I soon learned that we’d be dealing with the bi-directional traffic throughout the trip.  This is mainly the result of hikers on the “O Trek” counterclockwise and day hikers entering from three on the “W Trek”.  Chris showed us where we could (safely) fill up our water bottles from a stream of cascading glacial water and I sampled some.  It was cool, clear and refreshing!  We kept climbing up the boulder field, at times walking through a stream that co-mingled with the trail, until we had reached the area near the top (an elevation over 1000 meters or 3000 feet).  From there, we could see Shaowen, Tony, Shelly and Alvaro below (I waved and they told me later that they had seen me).  A bit after that, we entered an old glacial valley below the towering Torres.  WOW!  I can’t really describe how beautiful the scene was but I’ll note that the whole image of the area looked like a painting.  From a distance, Torres del Paine is impressive but, up close, it is breathtakingly spectacular.  Prior to this, I’d been comparing the terrain and views to other places I’d visited.  This view, however, was unique and inspiring.  Chris gave us high fives for reaching the top of the W (right side) and told us we had 45 minutes to relax and enjoy our surroundings.  I took full advantage of this respite, collecting lots of photos and sharing in the joy of it all the other folks (dozens at that point) who’d reached the view.  Chris told me that we had arrived on a day of weather that only occurs about 10% of the time - I felt VERY lucky. Eventually, our whole group had reconnected and we got some good photos together.  Alvaro then told us about the formation of the geological wonder in front of us.  I was a bit sad to learn that the whole valley had contained a glacier as recently as 100 years previously.  Sadly, there is almost no evidence of it now… At 1530, Chris gave the word that we needed to go back to our Refugio (people were only allowed to stay at the viewpoint until 1600).  When most of us ignored his request, he started (with Alvaro) down the rock slide.  At that point, everyone got the message!  We managed to stay pretty close together for a little while but eventually started spreading out again.  As usual, the descent was tougher on my knees than the climb had been.  Fortunately, we continued (as we had all day due to Chris’ steady gait) at a good pace and I never felt any pain.  Chris and Alvaro had maintained connection all day with the use of walkie-talkies and, eventuality, it appeared that they wanted to get together to help Shelly and Tony to finish the hike.  As a result, the rest of us were given the freedom to walk downhill independently.  I took full advantage of this opportunity and ultimately located a small pocket of mountain silence without any other hikers.  I stayed in this quiet bubble all the way to Chileno Refugio, where those of us in the front waited for the rest.  After we were all together again, we crossed the river and then Chris led us back uphill along the other side of the ravine.  Eventually, we could see the Refugio area where we’d started our day.  By that point, I was still feeling pretty good but knew there were at least four miles left to hike.  When Chris let us head off on our own again, I found myself in the front of the group and hiked quickly downhill.  On the way, the other group members that were nearby joined me in reveling in the vibes of our amazing day.  Some of us were also imagining getting beers at the Refugio… As we descended, I saw the Torres and the glaciers on the mountain from yet another angle/lighting - despite getting dozens of such glimpses, I was blown away by the beauty… We encountered our only wildlife of the day just before finishing: a large hare/rabbit that was descended from the ones first brought to the area by Europeans. By 1900, we’d returned to our starting point again after more than 14 miles.  What a hike!  I’d expected to stay in the building where we’d left our belongings but Chris soon arrived to tell us we could move to the main building (Torre Central).  When we arrived there, we checked in and then proceeded to our six bunk lodge room.  We found that the room had sleeping bags and we wondered why we needed to carry one in our backpacks all day…  The Refugio had charging stations but we learned that internet costs money.  One more unusual item: the signs everywhere asked everyone to avoid putting toilet paper in the commode - it’s a different approach from how the AMC huts manage waste but I got used to it.  A bit later, our group was all together again.  In the short time we’ve been traveling together, it has seemed like we only ever have 20 minutes before we have to be ready for dinner.  Fortunately, I was hungry!  We joined Chris and Alvaro in the dining hall at 2000 and enjoyed a nice dinner of pumpkin soup, salmon over risotto and a flan-like dessert.  We all tried some more of the local beers (Astral Calefate) and I got a round for our guides to a round (2030) - got to practice some more of my Spanish while ordering… Everyone was in very good spirits as we talked about the day and upcoming itinerary events.  I’d told Chris and Alvaro about my upcoming visits to Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro and they offered a lot of suggestions and encouragement (“you look Brazilian”).  Dinner ran until almost 2130 and then I headed back to the bunkroom.  Shaowen had indicated an interest in getting up for sunrise photos and several other members of the group requested that he not wake everyone too early.  We’ll see how that goes… I settled down for bed at 2200 after an amazing experience of adventure, natural wonders and camaraderie.  Unbeatable day!