Los Glaciares National Park Day 1! Today’s plan included a trip to the world-famous Perito Moreno Glacier (in the Seccional Glaciar Moreno area of the park). Because it was so close to El Calafate, we had a late departure. As a result, I woke up at my normal time (0530) but lounged in my room until 0730. After that, I headed down to eat a filling breakfast, complete with small plates of various items (meats, cheeses, bread, fruit, etc.) on little Saran-wrapped plates. Almost none of our group was there and I was done before most arrived. Since we planned to return to the Patagonia Queen Hotel in the evening, I packed only a day pack for our excursion. The van (2022 Mercedes) arrived at 0900 and we met Mariano (driver) and Christian (guide). After departing the hotel, we made a brief stop at a marshy point along the waterfront (shores of Lago Argentino) and got some photos. We then drove about 80 km to the Los Glaciares National Park. Christian gave us a lot of information about the local economy, the geology of the mountains, the effects of the glaciers on the surrounding areas and watershed. I was impressed to learn that the local salmon make a spawning journey of 400 km. Even more interesting were the comments about Perito (“Expert”) Moreno, a Nineteenth Century Argentinian scientist and diplomat whose efforts added about 400,000 square kilometers to his country. Though the government rewarded him with land, he donated it back to them for public use. As a result, he was honored with the naming of the glacier. Overall, the energy of the guide and driver was fun and happy and the ride went very quickly as they joked and taught us about the Santa Cruz Province. After entering the park, we stopped at a high point which allowed us to get our first view of the glacier. All I can say is WOW! Compared to the Grey Glacier, Perito Moreno is bigger and has many more surface variations. Perito Moreno towers many more meters above the water and has even more volume that isn’t visible above the surface. As we got deeper in the park, we passed through forests of Lenga trees - very pretty. Eventually, we reached a parking area for the main entrance into the trail system that allows visitors to get quite close to the glacial action. I helped a few young Americans with group photos (they returned the favor) and then (1030) all 13 members of our group proceeded into the viewing area. The trail system (renovated in 2009) of metal walkways, very nice railings and colorful blazes (circles or dots) is amazing. The whole place seemed extremely accessible and probably will help to ensure that the park remains the second most visited park in the country for years to come. Christian allowed us a lot of freedom to move through the trails and we got many impressive views. From time to time, huge pieces of the glacier would loudly fall from the edges into the water - it was an unmistakeable sound of Nature’s power. We paused several times to try to get photos but it was like watching a pot boiling. In the end, only a few patient folks got photos when the “magic” happened. At around noon, we stopped at an overlook and ate our box lunches (sandwich, hummus, quiche, nuts and candy). If you haven’t guessed by now, we eat REALLY well… A young couple asked to share a bench with me and I learned they were Daniel and Niamh, newlyweds from Ireland. We talked for a while about their adventures and only said goodbye when my own group started moving again. From this point, we worked our way down the glacier (south to north) from the Brazo Rico, through the Canal de Los Tempanos to the main channel of Lago Argentino. We were SO close at times - it was incredible! But we also got some birds-eye views and were able to make comparisons of scale with the tour boats and kayakers who approached the glacier itself. We didn’t get to witness it but the glacier sometimes pushes into the bluff where the walkways are and, after enough water builds up in the Brazo Rico, ice tunnels/bridges form. Eventually, the entire ice dam collapses in spectacular fashion. This kind of event is rather rare but much attended by the locals whenever it is imminent. Our walk wrapped up at Puerto F.P. Moreno and we relaxed in the cafe there for about 20 minutes until our van returned to get us (1400). Mariano next took us to the Ferry Landing for the Brazo Rico and Christian bought us tickets for a boat ride to the south end of the ice field. This was unexpected bonus and we were all happy to get a chance to see the glacier from another perspective. We departed the landing aboard the “Andiperle” at 1430 and spent an hour on the waters close to Perito Moreno. The onboard staff was quite good about providing information in both English and Spanish and we learned even more about the area on the way. By 1530, we disembarked and rejoined Mariano in the van. He then drove us the 80 km back to El Calafate. On the way, I had an interesting conversation with Klaus and Kathy about their lives overseas (she’d been stationed at several good bases during her Navy Career). By 1700, we arrived at Patagonia Queen Hotel and I was able to get the Argentinian Pesos that Alvaro had converted for me while we’d been gone. I immediately used some of this to tip our guide and driver (1705). Once inside the hotel, we were met by the owner (Rafael, good friend of Alvaro’s). He provided champagne to us while he gave a short talk about the last two times the ice dam/bridge at Perito Moreno collapsed (2014 and 2018). His videos were amazing and truly showed how amazing the glacier was. We were then (1745) allowed some more free time (until 1915) - most people used it to shop but I spent it relaxing in my room. I later joined Alvaro and a few others for the walk to our restaurant on Avenida Del Liberatador, a place called Nina. We set up at around 1930 and were allowed to choose any appetizer and entree we wanted. I ended up getting Duo de Empanadas, Tortellinis de humita and a side salad. The restaurant had its own amber beer so I tried that. Meanwhile, almost all the other guys got huge steaks - they just looked too big to me… While we ate, I talked a bunch with Ed, an engineer from the Bay Area whose grandmother had been interned in one of the Japanese relocation camps during World War II. Having visited a few of those sites in the past, it was heartbreaking to hear Ed’s family story. On a lighter note, one of the “community dogs” (looked like a border collie mix) came inside the restaurant and made the rounds. Almost everyone petted on him and he was rewarded by the staff with some streak scraps. These dogs sure have it good! Dinner ended at around 2145 (it wasn’t even really dark yet!) and I headed back to the hotel via another circuit of the Avenida Del Liberatador shopping zone. I encountered several crane-like birds that perched on high tree limbs and made a loud, mournful call (Alvaro later told me they were ibises). I met Rafael in the lobby as I retired for the night and thanked him for making our stay a pleasant one. Read in my room, sorted out my stuff and prepped for the next phase of our trip. Tomorrow: Chalten!
