South America Trip - Day 13

Los Glaciares National Park Day 3!  Each morning on this trip, I’ve awakened with the belief that I’ve already seen all the best highlights of Patagonia and the rest of the trip is just “gravy.”  And, every evening when I go to bed I realize that I was wrong.  The Active Adventures staff, both in New Zealand and in Chile, have created such an outstanding itinerary that every day holds an even bigger surprise!  I was awakened by the gentle glow of the Dawn (0530) and got ready for one of our longest hikes of the trip: 20 km (~13 miles).  I went to the lobby for breakfast (cereal, bread, meats, cheeses and fruits) at 0645 and then met the nine other members of our group who’d chosen to do the hike (along with our guides: Alvaro, Luis and Julie) at 0730.  Our van driver took us north from El Chalten, following Rio de Las Vueltas (along a gravel road), for about 20 km until we reached a parking area at the crossing of the Rio Blanco.  Only a little way into this trip, we left the National Park and found ourselves on private land.  Fortunately, the public has still been able to access the trails in this area without difficulty.  Our hike began at around 0815 and we hiked southwest across a long valley below the peaks of the Andes.  At first, the wind (coming from the west, off the ice field on the Chile-Argentina border less than 10 miles away) was rather strong - this, coupled with the cooler temps (40s) made me layer up (short sleeved shirt and light jacket).  Our trail paralleled the river and we got several amazing views of Fitz Roy as the sun rose higher in the sky.  Luis told us about the names of several peaks, and included a description of how the native peoples had called all mountains that had clouds wreathed around them (like Fitz Roy on most days) “Chalten” - this meant Smoky Mountain.  We saw, first hand, this effect.  For parts of the hike, I walked in the back of the pack with Alvaro and Julie.  The former told me about his love for the Lenga tree (it has a lifelong symbiotic relationship with a kind of termite that eventually hollows it out until the tree falls) and pointed out examples of the Magellan Woodpecker.  The latter asked to practice her English with me and I found myself speaking Spanish in return (I believe this really entertained Luis and Alvaro).  Along the way, we reentered the National Park and joined the El Pilar Trail.  We filled up several times on water from the river and stopped for a snack at the amazing view of the Piedras Blancas Glacier.  The trail was rather easy, with only a few steep spots, until we reached the Poincinot Camping area.  We were given a chance to “bail out” from the optional climb to Laguna de Los Tres at this point but only one person decided to head back to El Chalten with Alvaro.  The rest of us used the facilities (we saw many privies in the park but they only had a hole in the floor…).  From the campsite, we started a 2 km climb to one of the closest viewpoint for Fitz Roy and the glaciers on/near it.  At one point, Luis said we could continue without him (“I’ll catch up”) and we took this to mean we could go at our own pace.  As a result, I put on the “afterburners” and powered my way (without stopping) to the top.  By leaving my English speaking group behind, I found myself in a different world of communication - but I liked being able to lightly converse with the many Spanish speaking hikers I passed on the way.  I was at the high point (after navigating a false summit) just after 1200 and was blown away by the view.  WOW!!!! I’d thought Torres del Paine was unique in its features but the Fitz Roy peak, glacier and lake were just as impressive.  A bit later, the rest of the group started to arrive - eventually, everyone made it!  Meanwhile, I ate lunch (chicken sandwich with dried tomatoes and peppers, pumpkin empanada, nuts, chocolate and a membrillo pastry) and watched the clouds rolling up (east) from behind Fitz Roy.  Turning around completely, I could see the entire route of our hike through the Rio Blanco Valley, back to El Chalten.  Again, Wow!  By 1300, Luis told us we were allowed to backtrack down hill and a few of us made good time to the rallying point at Camp Rio Blanco.  It took a while for everyone else to get there but we eventually started hiking (together) towards town (southeast).  I’ve noticed that the W Trek group has usually been in the front of the hikes while the other seven trail well behind - today was no exception.  Along the way, several of us started singing “99 Bottles of Beer” (our minds were already on celebrating at the end) and got a smile from Luis (we also got applause from two hikers who passed us later and they asked where we’d be performing later in the evening).  Other highlights in this part of the journey included spectacular views of the Andes, a pretty walk along Laguna Capri, seeing Palomito (white orchid), observing several wild hares and pretty thrushes, and hearing Luis’ stories about local mountaineering adventures (his own and those of the climbers for whom many of the landmarks are named).  As we reached the “pushover” for the descent into town, Luis again gave us the green light to go as fast as we wanted.  Like an arrow from a bow, I picked up speed until I reached the pace I wanted - only Kirk and Janice stayed with me after that. Our downhill into the valley was actually kind of relaxing because the trail was wide and smooth.  Just after 1800, we rolled into town - 10 minutes later, we were in the hotel lobby.  What a hike!  Alvaro told us we had just over an hour before we had to leave for dinner so Kirk bought a round of beers (Andes Origen Roja) that we could enjoy until the rest of the group arrived.  Everyone was back by 1845 and we then scattered to our rooms to shower and change.  My clean laundry (washed and folded by the hotel) was in the room - very nice!  At 1915, our group walked down the Main Street to reach our restaurant, La Vineria Grill.  Alvaro had ordered ahead, so our pre-arranged dinner (empanada, salad, veggie lasagna and mousse) and drinks (another Roja and a glass of Malbec) came quickly to the table.  Everyone was in good spirits after our big hike and the conversation flowed freely.  We were finished at 2130 and walked back to El Barranco to get ready for bed.  I caught up on blogs and set up for the next day before heading to bed (2300).  Unbelievable day of exercise, achievement and views - this trip continues to impress!