Woodstock, VT (USA)

This morning, I went to Mass in Lebanon (0800) and then drove over to Woodstock so I could volunteer at the Billings Farm for their Thanksgiving event (arrived at 0930).  This time, I got to watch the joy on the faces of the visitors as we assisted them in making their own apple turnovers!  We had a continuous stream of families with young kids and I did a lot of cleaning, instructing and encouraging.  I walked around a good bit during my break(s) and enjoyed the rather quiet, end-of-Thanksgiving-weekend vibe.  Stayed until around 1500 and then went home. As always, it was great to be able to help out at The Farm!

White River Junction, VT (USA)

[teleworked in the morning - I went to White River Junction at 1230 so I could workout at the UVAC - spent 45 minutes swimming and then did some stationary bike, rowing and weights - afterwards (1430), I drove home and changed into hiking gear - I walked the trail system in Greensboro Ridge (volunteer for Hanover Conservancy) from 1500 to 1600 - more teleworking after that]

Norwich, VT (USA)

[I teleworked all morning and then (1100) went over to Sacred Heart to assist with the annual Thanksgiving Dinner preparations - when I arrived, Len gave me a list of stops where I needed to pick up food - I first went to DHMC (hams, cranberry sauce, other supplies), then Lou's (hams), then Dan & Whit's (hams) and then stopped at Cumberland Farms in Wilder to get a free drink and pick up a Redbox movie - making my way back (via I-91 and I-89) to Lebanon, I attempted to pick up some more hams at Salt hill but they were closed - back at the Church, Len sent me and John P to pick up carrots and stuffing that had been prepared at the Kimball Union Academy - John drove Len's big truck (it had a trailer attached) and we managed to get all the food (and back up the truck and trailer down a long road) successfully - after that, we returned to the Church and finished up my volunteer time by unloading everything - I was back at my desk by 1500]

South America Trip - Day 24

Somehow - despite loud talkers, insensitive aisle walkers and crying babies - I managed to doze a few times during the night...  By 0430 (New York time), I was awake and went back to watching movies.  The flight attendants came around about 30 minutes later and served breakfast (eggs, veggies, bread).  I couldn’t see much out of the window from where I was sitting but I did witness the early morning glow of the sunrise.  We landed at JFK by 0645 but then got to park on a taxiway for a little while.  Eventually (0715), we deplaned and started through to Customs (Terminal 4).  I used my Global Entry and bypassed the entire set of lines - the wait for everyone else was showing as 60 minutes but it didn’t even take me five minutes!  I found the baggage claim area and (after missing my larger bag as it passed a few times) was soon (0730) able to leave the terminal.  Bound for Terminal 5, I walked a short distance (brrr) and got to the USO just before 0800.  Since they didn’t open until 0900, I killed time in the area nearby.  Not surprisingly, I was feeling very tired...  I called Dartmouth Coach to ask if I could reschedule my bus departure time (from Grand Central) but they said the earlier bus was sold out - dang!  At 0845, the volunteer at the USO let several of us inside and I got some snacks.  I spent the next few hours resting and waiting in the warm area.  At 1100, I got my stuff together and started making my way towards Manhattan.  It took a while to walk back to the AirTrain platform but I lucked out when I got there because a Jamaica-bound train was just arriving.  There were very few people on board and it only took me about 25 minutes to reach the end of the line.  Unfortunately, when I tried to pay the exit fare, I found that the Metro card I had bought on the first day of the trip no longer worked.  This minor inconvenience cost me an extra dollar (for a new card) but I was actually able to use my credit card this time (1130).  I was also able to buy a ticket for the LIRR before heading out to the platform (1130).  It was SO cold!  The westbound train came by at 1150 and I had no trouble getting a seat.  The day was crisp and clear and there was plenty of scenery to see on the way.  At around 1230, I exited the train at Penn Station and immediately got a bit disoriented.  By the time I reached street level, I realized I was inside a massive building called the Moynihan Train Hall.  Since it was so impressive, I explored it a bit - there was plenty of shopping and places to eat.  While trying to call up an Uber, I determined that the price had gone up almost $10 in just an hour since I'd last checked.  I ultimately decided to walk.  Outside, I found myself on 34th Street and made my way through the area (Macy’s entrance) that would be one of the main points of the Thanksgiving Day parade route (I sent the girls a photo).  I then passed the Empire State Building and crossed Fifth Street, which I figured out was the dividing point for the west and east side street naming.  Later, I turned north and walked all the way to 42nd Street.  There, I turned east and passed Grand Central and the Chrysler Building.  At 1300, I came across the driver for the 1:30 PM Dartmouth Coach, which hadn’t yet started loading, and he gave me the impression that I might have a good shot to get on the earlier bus.  He also suggested places where I could wait and/or leave my bags temporarily while waiting for the next one (if needed).  However, I got really lucky when a mother and daughter pair arrived 10 minutes later and told the driver they had left the son/brother behind in Lebanon.  I was very pleased to hear this and the driver let me get onboard immediately.  I then settled in while the bus filled completely.  We departed at 1330 and took what I’d call a scenic route to leave the City.  Along the way, we passed the UN Headquarters and took surface streets north.  Eventually, we crossed the river and I think we used I-87 or US-9 to reach I-287 and then got on I-684 to reach I-84.  However, I was so tired that I fell asleep just after watching the first movie (“The War with Grandpa”).  I woke up somewhere just north of Hartford (crossing into Massachusetts).  It was dark and snowy for the rest of the drive and I tried to pass the time with dozing and watching the last part of another movie.  We stopped at least once along the way to change to a new driver (I might have missed when we stopped early to pick him up) - by 1830, we rolled to a stop at the Hanover Inn and I found Monte waiting to drive me home.  He was so helpful and thoughtful all the way through the process!  By the time I entered my condo, he had retrieved a huge pile of all my mail and made sure I was settled in safely.  I guess my fatigue was obvious!  Before going to sleep, I sent the girls a photo of Smurfey, sleeping in bed.  I went to bed myself - after one of the longest travel days I can remember - at 2045.  Wow - what a vacation - it lived up to all the hype and expectations and I can't wait to go on another adventure soon!

South America Trip - Day 23

Even though I wanted to sleep in later because of my long travel day, I was still wide awake by 0545.  Ever since arriving in Rio, I’d been hoping to get a late checkout from my hotel on this day but the desk clerks told me I had to wait until today to ask ("hotel policy").  So, on the way to breakfast (0715), I checked on this perk and they confirmed I could keep the room until 1400.  After that, I sat down to a nice breakfast (eggs, sausage, yogurt, pastries) in the pleasant morning air.  Unlike all the previous days at the Hotel Mercure, I noticed many more people in the dining area - it must be the weekend crowd.  Also many people I encountered (including hotel staff) were wearing masks - that seemed ominous.  After I was done with my meal, I walked back to Droga Raia and picked up some more cough drops (0745).  Subsequently, I returned to my room and did some packing.  I also watched more movies, did some reading and tried to get mentally prepared for my long journey home.  At 1300, I left my room and headed for the lobby.  I checked out of the hotel and then ordered another Uber (1305) and was soon on my way back to Galeo Airport.  My driver (Nelson) was quite aggressive, which seemed to be a helpful trait for those driving the chaotic city streets of Copacabana and Lagoa.  We passed the lake again and it had lots of sailboats on it this time.  Eventually, we made it onto the highway and I was whisked out of the city that I’ve been enjoying for the last several days - sad to leave.  We reached the airport by 1345 and then I had to locate the LATAM counter - not an easy task.  After walking almost the entire length of the terminal, I finally managed to find it.  Hoping to take advantage of my early arrival, I asked one of the LATAM employees who spoke English if it were possible to “start early” in the check-in-process.  They said that it was and directed me towards the self-check-in kiosks.  The last two flights in my vacation itinerary seemed a bit more challenging because I had to check bags to New York (international) but then fly to Sao Paolo (Guarulhos) within Brazil's domestic system.  Somehow, I managed to navigate the Portuguese prompts (including tagging my own bags) and got in the queue for the baggage weight/submission step in the process.  It took a while to turn in my bags because the lines were slow.  However, I was able to get both bags checked for free again and was soon headed to the security gate for Domestic Departures.  As I’ve seen for most of my stops through airports on this vacation, the security process was much quicker and straightforward here.  I then had to make another journey through the Duty Free shop to get to the date area.  By this point (1415), I was hungry for lunch and began looking for a place to eat.  After scoping out a few small bistro counters, I decided to take advantage of the short line at Subway.  Even though the ladies there didn't speak English, we were able to work together to construct a 30 cm Italian BMT for me (and I even was able to help an English speaking lady with her order).  After I got my food, I sat in the dining area to enjoy it (1425).  I didn’t have to be in a hurry because I had almost three hours until my flight - it was nice to not feel rushed.  After finishing the sandwich, I walked a bit deeper into the gate area, passing lots of crowds, and eventually found a place to sit quietly and charge my phone.  Until it was time to board, I pretty much stayed right there, reading.  During the same interval, I heard very little English and the sign with gate assignments was very slow to update.  With this in mind, I paid very close attention to announcements and crowd behavior.  By using some of my few Portuguese words, was ultimately able to arrive at the proper gate on time (1630).  While standing in the boarding queue, I witnessed a tremendous amount of annoyance on the part of other passengers because the cabin crew had apparently decided not to allow anyone to bring any carry-on luggage aboard.  Tensions were high but we eventually started down the jetway.  Even then, though, we got to stand in a big line that stretched all the war from the gate to the back of the airplane (A321). I was finally in my seat by 1715 and we pushed back from the gate shortly afterwards.  This time, I was in a middle seat and it meant I had very little room to move (meanwhile, there were six empty seats in front of me in the exit row...).  We got airborne at around 1735 and, departing south, got a spectacular view of the entire part of Rio I’d been visiting for the last few days.  The evening sky was filled with clouds and scattered showers but the glow of the setting sun made the images of the city quire memorable.  After all the logistics in getting onboard, we had a very quick flight to Sao Paolo (landed at 1825).  When our plane parked, I believe I witnessed a flight attendant rendition of “who is our favorite section?” because they made everyone stay seated and called random rows to exit.  This was annoying, actually, but they were completely in charge.  Once off the plane, I found that I had to enter yet another series of queues that took me from the domestic area to the international area.  Along the way, I had to scan a ticket, visit Brazilian customs and then pass through the heaviest security I’ve yet seen on the trip,  My carry-on backpack got flagged for a search but I was ultimately cleared, unlike several other poor folks who had to throw things away.  After that, I found myself inside the huge international terminal - it was full of people and I had to walk clear across the entire place in my search for a bar/pub.  Along the way, I passed a busy area where a Doha-bound flight from was boarding - everyone looked like they were psyched for Brasil in the World Cup.  Although the National Team didn't actually play until the following Thursday, I guess everyone wanted to see the other matches too.  After finding no where to sit down for a drink, I backtracked to the beginning of my tour of the terminal and noticed a small place called Bleriot where I was able to get some beers (Sol Cerveza Mexicana) and a snack. While there, I heard a lot of English being spoken and a few folks even engaged me in conversation.  Overall, there was lots of friendly banter.  After a nice break (2045), I moved to another area so I could charge my phone and wait for the departure of my next flight.  By 2200, I decided to go looking for the gate and found it nearby.  Group 1 was already loading!  Wanting to use some more of my Reals, I bought a bunch of candy at a store nearby (2215).  Back at the gate, I waited a little longer before my group was called.  After that, it took a while to reach my seat, on the aisle in a middle trio near the back of the plane.  The aircraft was mostly full.  A lady in the seat next to me said hello and I realized she had sat next to me on the previous flight.  Behind me, two toddler-aged kids sat down with their mother - it could be a long night...  The doors closed at 2300 and we took off almost on time.  Even though I was exhausted and ready for sleep, I started watching movies because the crew didn’t seem to be planning to “darken ship” for the nine hour flight.  Just before midnight (Sao Paulo time), I was surprised when the flight attendants brought me some dinner (pasta, veggies, bread, candy).  Since it was available, I didn’t pass up the opportunity and add a cup of wine too... After getting done with my meal, I wrapped up in my blanket and tried to sleep.  We were over the Atlantic Ocean when the LONG day finally ended...

South America Trip - Day 22

Yesterday’s cold really threw me for a loop… Fortunately, I woke up this morning (0615) fully rested. Not wanting to spend anymore time in my room, I went downstairs early and, when I found the restaurant wasn’t open for breakfast yet, walked a few blocks north to find a pharmacy. I located one (DrogaRaia) that was actually open 24 hours and, after some assistance with Google Translate, bought some Halls cough drops (0650). Back at the hotel, I ate a filling breakfast (eggs, sausages, yogurt, pastries and cheese bread). I felt much better this morning and decided that I would stick to my original plan of visiting Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf). For the last three days, I’d been attempting to make a ticket purchase (unsuccessfully) on the Parque Bondindo website so figured I would get an early start in case I had problems getting a ride on the gondola lift. My Uber (with Andre, 0750) got me to the park entrance just before 0800, when operations were supposed to begin. However, it soon became clear that the gondolas didn’t start running on Fridays until later - I eventually figured out that the first one departed at 0900. Since I had time to kill, I tried the website again and was actually able to buy a ticket (0820). This proved to be fortuitous, since there were separate queues for people with and without tickets. As a result, I was one of the first people to get into the park when they opened and soon found myself riding a gondola from Praia Vermelha up to Morro da Urca. The views were spectacular and the ride was quick. At the first stop of the journey to the top of Sugarloaf, I explored briefly in the area near the two gondola lift entrances and marveled at several amazing views of Rio. One of the most interesting things I saw was the huge turn that aircraft had to make when taking off from Aeropuerto Santos Dumont - southbound departures had Sugarloaf right on the nose as they got airborne! A little bit later, I walked to the north end of the Morro And boarded the second gondola that would take me the rest of the way to the top of Sugarloaf. On top of the second hill, there was a pleasant breeze and even better views of the surrounding city. There were many shops and bistros there too - I imagine it would be a very nice date to bring someone to the top of Sugarloaf at sunset time and enjoy a caipirinha or other cocktail… Not wanting my visit to end immediately, I took a walk on several different stairways and jungle covered walkways that ringed the Morro. Before long, however, I ran out of things to do and pictures to take so I made my way back to the gondola entrance and returned to Morro da Urca. By this point, it was getting busier and warmer and I was ready to try another activity. One more gondola ride, took me to the base of the entire system, and I was soon standing on the street. Using suggestions from my guidebook, I next explored the area near Praia Vermelha and then walked down the northern side of the Urca waterfront. This side-trip took me on on a route that was directly opposite (across Enseada de Botofogo and Baia de Guanabara) from where I’ve been walking yesterday (Flamengo). After stopping at Igrejs de Nossa Senhora do Brasil and Praia da Urca, I backtracked to Avenida Pasteur and ordered another Uber. My driver (Joao) found me and then made a great move across four lanes of traffic to get us quickly on our way to Jardim Botanico. I arrived at (1135) and (with help) quickly found the ticket booth (1145). A nice lady gave me a detailed map in English and I began to explore the shaded groves and pretty gardens that filled the area within the walls. From several angles, I saw the nearby (as the crow flies) Christ the Redeemer statue. I rested happily on benches, filled up on water from natural fountains, watched monkeys playing and took a break at a little café (1230). By this point, the temperatures had, once again, risen into the high 80s and I had to decide what to do next. Nearby, was the neighborhood of Lagoa - while I’d seen the Lake briefly during an Uber ride yesterday, I hoped to get a closer view. However, my navigation was not quite as good as I would’ve liked, and there were several private properties along the west side of the lake. This meant that I soon found myself, instead, in the neighborhood of Leblon. Figuring I’d probably do better if I just headed straight to the beach, I continued south on Avenida Bartolomeu Mitre. Once I was near the sand (far west side of Leblon-Ipanema, near Posto 11), I found images that were completely different than just a few days before. So many people were on the beach! Of course, there were many bathers but there were also people playing handball and some sort of soccer volleyball. And there were so many pop-up vendors near the people on the sand, selling drinks and snacks and swimwear. I realized at that moment that I was about four miles from my hotel and still had to walk - fully exposed to the sun - a long way. The sun-bronzed and leathered bodies of the Cariocas nearby seemed like a cautionary tale but I kept going. During this phase, I also denied myself several drinks that seemed inviting - I knew that if I sat down I’d never get moving again. Ultimately, I reached Hotel Mercure at around 1420, having walked over 11 miles around the city. I realize it would take weeks of exploring to truly appreciate Rio but it does feel good to have seen glimpses of so much of it! Once again, I rolled into a siesta period, hoping for a second wind to enjoy my last night in Brazil. Today’s rest seemed to go better (no nap needed) and I felt ready to go to dinner by about 1800. I’d seen a burger place to the west called “Bob’s” and decided to check out the Brazilian version of fast food. The evening was already cooler as I walked and, after ordering the “Big Bob” (1815), I sat down to dinner (double patty burger, chicken fries, banana-caramel shake) on their patio. Up until today, I’d been approached by panhandlers only a few times during this trip - most were friendly and smiling. During this meal, however, one came upon me from behind and seemed unwilling to just give up after my first “nao.” I was startled (more than anything else) and was a bit short with him. Afterwards, I walked across Avenida Atlantica and proceeded down to the beach. The sky was clear and I could see all the prominent landmarks for miles in every direction. It didn’t occur to me until later that I should have scanned the southern skies, once more, in search of the elusive Southern Cross… I watched more “Fut-Volei” and handball while dipping my toes once more in the Copacabana surf. Near my hotel, I decided to return to Mar de Copa for one more adult beverage. I’d been seeing people ordering a drink (“coco”) that seemed to be entirely comprised of a giant coconut so I got one too. It turned out to include an almost unlimited amount of coconut milk - tasty and hydrating. After that, I ordered one more caipirinha - it hit the spot! Meanwhile, I watched what appeared to be informal tournaments of the beach sports near the volleyball nets and secretly cheered on the different duos of players in range. By 2000, I was tired and decided to head back to the hotel (2000). At the front door, I encountered a young lady who seemed annoyed (much more than I expected) that I couldn’t respond in Portuguese to whatever she wanted. By her (over)reaction, I can only conclude that I dodged a big bullet in several ways… In my room, I watched movies on my phone until it was time for bed (2300). Last night in Rio…

South America Trip - Day 21

I’d been advised to be very careful about petty crime in Rio so I changed my normal plan of walking everywhere - Ubers work great in this city! This morning, I ate breakfast at the hotel and then got a ride (with Alvaro, 0800) to the neighborhood of Corcovado (“hunchback”). When I arrived (0800) at the ticket counter for the Cog Train that would take me to the summit and Cristo Redentor statue, I had no trouble getting a ride on the next train (0820) - it was much easier there than online… It was already quite warm (70s) and humid so a climb to 2300 feet promised to bring breezy relief. Along the way, we passed through the deep jungles of Parque da Tijuca (didn’t see any of the monkeys, though). After about 25 minutes in the incline (quite steep), I joined hundreds of other folks (on my train and earlier ones) in trying to get the best pictures of the statue and city skyline far below. Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) was easily viewable, since the weather was good. What a great day to be on top of the world! I didn’t tarry long up there (the huge number of selfie sticks and social media posers were tiresome). By 0930, I was back at the bottom of the hill amd ordered my second Uber. This time, the driver (Cesar, 1000) took me to the Santa Teresa neighborhood (1000) and dropped me off at the famous Arcos da Lapa. I was in luck: the “bonde” train passed over the span while I was watching. From there, it was a short walk to the equally famous Escadaria Selaron (colorful steps that reminded me of a town I’ve visited in Sicily. The commercialism and (more) selfie culture made me pause in climbing - I also found some shade. After reaching the top, I backtracked through the crowds until I found the Catedral Metropolitana, a huge pyramid shaped church near the Arcos. Once inside, I marveled at the pretty stained glass windows and ubiquitous statues of São Sebastião. Back in the hot sun (temps in the high 80s), I resisted the temptation to order my third Uber. Instead, I walked east into the Centro neighborhood. I’d heard that this place was safest during the work week so I crossed through several blocks of highrises and old, historic buildings (I believe I passed the Teatro Municipal and Museu Nacional de Belas Artes). I also walked through a series of pretty parks that were close to the water: Praca Pistóia, Jardins do MAM and Monumento Nacional aos Mortos da Segunda Guerra Mundial. After that, I found myself on the waterfront, following a route I’d last seen in Copacabana called Rio a Pe (“Walk Rio”) along with many bikers, joggers and other walkers. Passing Marina da Glória, I reached Parque do Flamengo. The views of the sun, sand and Sugarloaf (across the harbor) were tremendous! Also, I kept seeing other angles of Cristo Redentor - and I noticed a lot of paragliders near the big statue. I’d been going so long on foot that I began to believe I was really close to the Urca neighborhood but I soon realized I’d have to cross the entire Botafogo neighborhood first. That was where I ran out of steam (after more than six miles). Looking for a break, I bailed on the Rio Walk and found a little bistro (Farani 1903 Sports Bar) that specialized in steak. I may have disappointed them by only ordering two Sprites and French Fries… After I was finished with my food boost (1225), I walked a short distance to the south and looked inside of the Basílica Imaculada Conceição. Then it was time for another Uber (1235). Fortunately, the ride (with Fabio, 1250) was the fastest of the day and I was back in my hotel by 1250. With the hot sun, a huge list of “must sees” and a bit of a cold (it finally got me!), I’m happy with all the things I did this morning. I was hoping that another siesta would get me ready for a second wind in the evening but that never happened. Instead, I took a nap and rested in my room for the rest of the day. My dinner was an apple I’d been carrying with me since Buenos Aires. I found out that my hotel has HBO (English, with Portuguese subtitles) and enjoyed watching a movie called “Gunpowder Milkshake”. Went to bed just before 2100 - hoping to beat this cold with a lot of rest and hydration…

South America Trip - Day 20

I slept until 0630 this morning - it was raining so I didn’t leave the room early. At 0800, I went down to breakfast in the hotel restaurant and tried several good things they had (pineapple, cereal, eggs, various pastries, cheese bread). I finally decided that I didn’t want to waste a single day of sightseeing. Starting just after 0915, I walked the entire length of Copacabana Beach on Avenida Atlantica, first to the east (through Leme Beach area) as far as Ponta do Leme and then (backtrack) all the way to the southern end (gate of Forte de Copacabana). Using Rua Francisco Otaviano, I then reached Ipanema Beach and walked west about one quarter of the way down Avenida Vieira Souto (just past Posto 8). Backtracked to Ponta do Arpoador, climbed the huge rocks and got photos of much of the famous coastline nearby. The higher terrain (Pao de Acucar and Dois Irmaos) were covered in clouds… Actually used some of the phrases I’ve learned on Duolingo in the last year: once to ensure I was dressed appropriately enough to enter an interesting church I passed and another time when I offered to take a picture for a young couple. In the latter situation, I wasn’t sure what to say so they would know I was pressing the photo button so I called out “Queijo” (cheese). There was a bit of wind at the time but it could also be my pronunciation because they laughed and kissed for the camera. I later figured out that they must have heard “Beijo” (kiss). Regardless, they seemed quite happy with the snaps… My little umbrella wasn’t completely useless but I still got pretty wet in the early part of my three hour walk. The sun finally came out as I reached the hotel and, by then, the character of the beach changed completely. The only people I saw when I started were fishermen, hard-core runners and a happy group of enthusiastic dancers who seemed to be trying to make the rain stop. At the end of my excursion, however, all the “normal” people responded to the sunshine by spilling out of their hotels, covering the streets and resuming their beach vacations. It may be strange to say this but I kind of liked having the place mostly to myself… I then took a rest after my 8 mile walk and planned to get out for more sights and sounds later in the day. During my “siesta” this afternoon, I did a lot of research about how to accomplish some of my “bucket list” activities in the area. Like so many of the things I’ve already done on this trip, logistics are a big challenge - *everyone* has the same ideas and reservations are limited in many good places. I’ve been getting better at using WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger to communicate directly with the venues and I hope these new social media skills pay off in the next 72 hours… At around 1630, I went down to visit the desk clerks (my new friends, Lenora and Guy) and they sent me off to their favorite “Frango” (chicken) spot in Copacabana: Galeto Sats. By then, it had completely stopped raining and there was a pleasant breeze coming off the ocean. Clouds still threatened, though… It took a little effort to find this hole in the wall but it was definitely worth the effort. When I mentioned I’d been sent by a hotel for their best chicken, the waiter set me up with “Galeto ao Molho Sats” (fried chicken, with a special sauce) and Batatas Cozidas (boiled potatoes). Of course, he insisted that I wash it all down with their local Chopp (or two, or three) and I didn’t argue. The food was excellent! The sauce was a mix of citrus and oils and it went well with both the chicken and potatoes. The little place wasn’t busy yet so I watched an interesting Futbol match with the staff. When I tried to pay, my credit card didn’t work and I got alarmed that I didn’t have a way to pay. Then I remembered that the Real to Dollar conversion rate made things seem unnecessarily expensive and used some of my cash to pay for the meal (1800). After a great meal, I took my time going back to the hotel, walking in the surf that gently (and warmly) soothed my feet - they’ve averaged almost 9 miles a day for almost three weeks. There actually weren’t many people on the beach this evening. I heard that the locals think it is too cold right now but it seemed like Cape Cod summer temps to me… I got my second (if I count the Uber ride last night) good view of Cristo Redentor, watching Rio from the top of his hill - hope to get closer soon! The sunset (which happened just after 1800) created some amazingly colorful images (my camera probably doesn’t do them justice). When I got near my hotel again, I stopped into Mar de Copa again so I could try one (or two) of their Caipurnias. The music was good and the atmosphere was fine. I was done at 1955 and walked back to my room. Had to get all the sand off my feet but that felt good. Rested and watched videos on my phone until bed (2210). Maybe you are all getting tired of hearing me say it, but Life is Good!

South America Trip - Day 19

Somehow, after all of yesterday's walking, I still woke up at 0545.  I finished packing and left a tip in the room for the nice folks who'd been taking care of me (0700).  I then headed down to the main level.  Last night, I had issues with confirming my flight to Rio.  Fortunately, both Booking.com (website) and GOL Airlines (Facebook Messenger) sent messages to me that helped to sort out the problem.  In the lobby, I was able to thank Mateo and Gonzalo for their services and then paid for my room (0715).  The staff let me store my bags in the lobby while I went to breakfast (cereal, pastries).  The hotel also set up a shuttle for me at 0800 but it didn't arrive on time.  When I checked with Gonzalo on the status, he prompted the driver, who finally showed up at 0815.  After that, I said goodbye to the Ramada and we got on the road towards Aeroparque Jorge Newberry.  I'd learned that Buenos Aires actually has two separate airports (one for domestic and one for international) but I lucked out by getting to use the same one leaving the country as when I'd arrived on December 12.  On the flip side, I remembered (as we drove) that this was the first flight on the trip that I’d scheduled without the help of the USAA Travel agent and it felt a bit risky to be using the airline (GOL)... Still, the weather was beautiful and the taxi ride went relatively smoothly.  As we drove, I started to wish that I had more time in this amazing city - I'll definitely have to return!  The driver dropped me off at the Departures terminal (0835) and I quickly found the GOL desk.  It was mobbed with people and I gradually deduced that there was another (earlier) flight that was being handled.  When I asked about the best thing to do, I was told to wait until exactly three hours before takeoff.  Since this was still about 60 minutes later, I killed time by trying to figure out whether I could get any Argentinian taxes reimbursed.  By the time I eventually found an actual person to assist me, I learned that I couldn’t get money back because I hadn’t done the entire, complex process correctly.  Oh well...  After that, I sat in a chair and watched some guys who were shrink wrapping any bags people had brought (for a fee) - I ended up seeing a lot of hiker backpacks getting “mummified." Just before 0940, I got in a line just outside the official check-in queue and waited for my own flight to be called.  It probably took 20 minutes more before the entire line of passengers for São Paulo was finished and then most of the agents took a 10 minute break (only one stayed behind in case late São Paulo passengers arrived).  At 1015, our own queue finally began to move - I felt fortunate to be near the front and got checked in easily (once again, two pieces of baggage checked for free).  I then navigated my way to the International departure area and proceeded through security (they were quite serious) and Argentina Immigration.  By 1045, I had made it through to the gates and felt a bit better about the way things were going.  I ate a snack in the area near Gate 17 (where my boarding pass said I should be waiting) and used a phone charger nearby.  During this time, I noticed a gentleman with an iPad who was walking nearby and realized I’d seen him at the Buquebus terminal the day before.  It turned out that he was a representative of Argentina’s Tourism Board and he asked me to take a brief survey about my time in Argentina (I obliged him).  At the scheduled boarding time, I noticed that the gate was still completely deserted and decided to check out Gate 20 (a status board showed that was where the flight would be).  I found a huge line of people there and noticed the distinctive orange of the GOL logo nearby. From this point, time seemed to stop...  I noticed many of the same agents here that I’d seen at the check-in counter (small staff?) but no announcements of any kind were made during the next hour.  I actually could see the plane (B737-800) outside the window but nothing happened when the departure came and went.  Eventually, I got the gist of the situation from watching the expressions of others: we’d had a mechanical problem that was needed to be resolved.  Eventually, the agents started checking people in (before the gate even opened) and finally (1300), we were allowed to board. We then managed to get everyone seated and the doors were actually closed (the plane wasn’t completely filled).  At that point, though, I heard announcements in Spanish and Portuguese that the Argentine Federal Police wanted to re-check all of the carry-on bags! With many groans, everyone got their stuff and we started walking up the jetway.  Midway, however, we were told to turn around and return to our seats. I’d only half understood what was happening and tried to get more info from nearby passengers.  In the end, as best I can figure, everyone accepted the random and unexplained disruption with phrases like “it is better not to ask”...  Once on the plane again, there was another delay before a large number of extra passengers arrived.  My guess is that this was partly the source of all the other issues (the airline and security didn’t want to depart with a partially full aircraft).  We finally departed at around 1350.  I had a window seat and got to see some of the northern suburbs of Buenos Aires during the climb out - I’m not 100% sure but I think I also saw Colonia as we crossed the delta if the River Plate.  The only outlets were strange “USB” ports which (again) wouldn’t work for me.  We got snacks on the plane but the flight was otherwise uneventful.  We landed at Galeo Airport in Rio de Janeiro at 1650.  Once I was off the plane, I found that I had a LONG walk to immigration.  Luckily, the line for foreigners was not long.  I retrieved my bags and then proceeded through  customs quite quickly.  My first attempt to get cash initially failed (there was, apparently, a problem with the computer).  Instead, i snaked through a huge Duty Free area.  Once outisde the Security Zone, I started getting harassed by taxi drivers - they followed me all the way through terminal and almost demanded that I used their services.  I managed to find an ATM at 1710 and took out some Reals (first time using my credit card to get cash).  After that, I managed to set up an Uber but then had to find the place where they were waiting.  On the way to that location, I got even more harassment from drivers - wow!  I eventually found my Uber and we left the airport.  By then, it was raining and I discovered that the driver (Vitor) didn’t speak English.  And it was already getting dark!  We made good time from the airport to Copacabana Beach, fortunately.  Along the way, I saw the Christ the Redeemer statue and Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf).  It appeared to be "rush hour" because everywhere we went had busy streets. I was able to chit chat a bit with driver and was impressed by his driving skills - I got lots of evidence that the Rio drivers were crazy...  We arrived at my hotel (Mercure) at around 1815 and I was quite pleased to find that the place was right on the beach (on Avenida Atlantica).  While trying to check in, I had trouble with my credit card initially.  I was also faced with a question about "Real charge versus US dollars" and then discovered that the hotel had own conversion rate - I chose the Real rate and it turned out to be much better in the end.  I actually had to call my bank to sort things out before the card finally worked (1900).  Before going to my room, I talked to the desk staff (Lorena, Guy and “Peter Parker”) about arranging tours (etc.).  After stashing my stuff and changing in to "beach attire", I went downstairs again and went outside to look for a beer.  It was still raining a little bit so I ducked into the first place I found - a little beach bar called Mar de Copa.  By then, it was already dark but I still had a nice view of the sand and palm trees.  I ordered a small glass of Chopp (local Pilsner) that was on Happy Hour special and later got a 600ml Brahma Duplo Malte to go with some fried shrimp.  The waiter was quite nice and we talked about beer, Rio and Miami (his daughter was born there).  The ambience and music were also good and I took my time, relaxing.  I found that my seat location in the bar allowed for some harmless vendor harassment but vowed to do better in choosing a table.  I finally finished up my evening at 2050.  As I was leaving, a guy chased after me on the way out (he called me “Boss”) but I didn’t understand what he wanted so continued across the street.  Once in my hotel room again, I watched some videos on my phone (first time on the trip) until I got sleepy.  Went to bed at 2215.  Really excited to be in this iconic place!

South America Trip - Day 18

Adventure in Uruguay! Before leaving on this trip, I’d discovered that day trips were possible from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, by means of a fast catamaran (Buquebus) that daily crosses the large bay of the Rio de La Plata delta. However, I was hesitant to buy tickets or build plans around such an excursion, mostly because of a concern I didn’t really have enough time while in Buenos Aires. After getting a huge amount of walking yesterday, though, I figured I would give the ferry a chance. First challenge: the Buquebus website was tough to use with an iPhone and gave conflicting information about ticket availability. My friend from the Patagonia trip, Tony, texted that he and Shelly had been unable to get any tickets themselves so were not planning on going to Colonia. I didn’t give up so easily - instead, I went down to the lobby and asked the clerk (Mateo) for help. He was able to find me a round trip ticket that left Buenos Aires at 1215 and returned at 2030. But then I hit the second challenge: when we tried to make the payment online, it didn’t work. At the time, I suspected that it was the website. Mateo suggested that I walk down to the ferry terminal (only six blocks away) and ask for assistance. Before leaving, I got breakfast (cereal, pastries, fruit) in the hotel dining room. Then (0715), I got on my way! The morning weather was completely different than the previous day: it was cool (50s), overcast and breezy. Almost everyone else but me was bundled up for the nasty (for here) weather. After cutting south to Cordoba, I walked straight east to the Buquebus Terminal on the north end of Puerto Madero. When I arrived, the 0830 ferry was loading and it was crazy busy. I asked for some help but no one spoke English. Fortunately, one of the nice ladies working there knew about a large, English-speaking tour group nearby with a bilingual leader. Through their their combined help, I ended up in the correct line. It took a little while to reach the Sales counter so I checked my phone for messages - it was only then that I realized that the earlier charge had been blocked by my bank. Fortunately (again), I was able to validate the vendor and (after one clerk set up my ticket and sent me to the payment center) was ultimately able to get my round trip tickets (0800). The itinerary was called something like a “Tourist” fare (one day, out and back). Relieved that I’d actually been able to complete the process, I next had to kill about two hours. Since walking is usually my thing, I just headed east as far as the road would allow and found a street that abutted the city port (route blocked by security) and a wildlife sanctuary. I followed this street to the south and got to see a lot of interesting birds that were resting in the marshy areas along the Rio de La Plata (the river itself was not visible). After a little while, I turned back to the west and explored the canals and shopping areas of Puerto Madero. Highlights: got photos of the Puente de Las Mujeres (being repaired) and an old sailing ship; looked around inside a McDonalds (they have some different food and “all day” options). By 1000, I’d made it back to the ferry terminal and settled in for what I thought would be a long wait. I picked up some food, in case I couldn’t get lunch later (1025), and charged my phone. Just a little while later, I saw a crowd of people moving towards the Embarkation area and decided to follow. After I snaked through a long queue, a lady scanned my ticket and then handed me a boarding pass and something called a Control Manga. From this area, I had to go to the second floor of the terminal, where I cleared both Argentinian (photo, fingerprint) and Uruguayan (loud stamp in my passport) customs. During this time, I saw the first of several instances during the day when security gave great deference to older persons and mothers - both got to go straight to the head of the line and no one (at all) objected. I also started noticing some fellow Americans - they were easily distinguishable because of their face masks and COVID-19 vaccine cards… After I got through with Immigration, I got to wait in a big room for about an hour. At around 1130, someone must have noticed the Buquebus ferry (“Atlantic III”) coming into the harbor because a wild stampede began to queue into three lines. Of course, I followed the leaders and then got to stand around for another 30 minutes while the catamaran docked. At around 1205, the lines started moving and we all handed one of our slips of paper (Control Manga) to the agents near the entrance of the boarding gate. From there, it was organized chaos through a LONG maze of gangways. When I finally got onboard, I found a store, restaurant and dining area (and bathrooms). The seats looked comfortable but the windows were frosted. Since I already knew we couldn’t stroll around on the deck, I gave up any illusions of taking photos and just tried to find a seat. Most of the good ones were already taken so I sat down in a cushioned seat near a group of families with small children. The ferry departed a bit late (1230) and I settled into my chair to listen to an audiobook. About ten minutes later, a little girl (2 years old) started paying a lot of attention to me. Her mother kept apologizing to me, in Spanish, so I tried to tell her that it was ok because I have three daughters of my own. The few sentences we spoke could have ended the interaction (I apologized for not knowing a lot of Spanish) but the “Dad” of the family arrived shortly afterwards and (after his wife told him I was a dad of three girls) began talking to me in English. It turned out that Marco and Tatiana were financial advisers who split time between Uruguay (Montevideo) and Argentina (each has family in both countries). They often visit the US, mostly to ski, and asked me a lot of questions about my travels. They loved that I had seen so much of Patagonia and insisted that I should consider retiring in Uruguay (“just like all the other people from the US”). The conversion lasted so long that we were docking in Colonia before I knew it (almost an hour and a half had passed since I got on the boat). We debarked quickly (no customs needed) and I soon (1345) found myself in Uruguay! Almost no one spoke English in the terminal but I was able to get a map and instructions about how to find a restaurant that Tatiana had recommended to me (they go there every time they are in Colonia). I walked west from the ferry landing and entered the Barrio Viejo. This town, a Seventeenth Century colony of the Portuguese, was juggled between powers until the Spanish finally got the upper hand in 1777. There are actually homes and other types of buildings from the time of the earliest settlement and parts of the old city walls have been restored to their former greatness. As I started my informal walking tour, it was still cool, breezy and overcast but I was comfortable in my shorts and t-shirt. The ocean looked angry, though… I got a little more information about the town at the Cultural Center and then checked out the old lighthouse (Faro). After that, I proceeded to the El Charco Bistro. On the way, I passed SO many tour huge Brazilian your busses! Once I got inside, I was able to find a young waitress who understood English and settled into my seat at a bar counter that faced the ocean. It was a great view and my mood improved even more when I learned that there was a local craft brewery (Maltik) with some beers on tap. I ended up ordering a Belgian Ale and an Irish Red. For my late lunch (I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast), I tried the house rolls with a tangy olive oil called Coratina - it was good. For my entree, I had the Poke Bowl with salmon, over rice, and lots of veggies. It was amazing and I scarfed it down with chopsticks. To top off the meal, I ate a dessert called “Volcano de Dulce” (melted chocolate and caramel with a side of ice cream). Outstanding meal, overall! When it was time to pay, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to add a tip to my credit card bill (1525). Near the end of the meal, I noticed that a guy my age was sitting nearby and politely smiling whenever I tried to use my Spanish with the waitress. We struck up a conversation and he (Julian) told me he was a contractor with the US CDC (epidemic research) and was always looking for ways to practice his English to improve his job skills. For a little while, we took turns describing our travels in alternating languages. Julian’s English was much better than my Spanish but he thanked me for making the effort. As I was leaving, I asked the waitress where I could go for a good walk along the shore and she pointed me towards a route called Rambla Cristobal Colon. It took a bit of walking to reach it but I used my paper map (I didn’t initially have cell service) as I navigated through streets with large trees over them. The houses of the town were all very colorful and I saw lots of old cars and “community dogs.” I passed a school with kids playing all kinds of outdoor sports and then continued west towards the far end of the cove/harbor - there was supposed to be an old bullfighting ring there and I wanted to see it. Along the way, I noticed (in the distance) the skyline of Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, after only a kilometer of walking, it started to rain. Not wanting to be wet and miserable, I turned around and then walked back to the port. The precipitation must have only been concentrated to the west of me because I never felt any more rain for the rest of the day. I walked through a busy shopping district on the main street and changed some of my Argentinian Pesos into Uruguayan Pesos. Back in the old part of town, I spent a little time near a pretty church and the ruins of the governor’s palace. By about 1730, I felt like I’d seen almost everything of interest (it then made sense that the guy at the Cultural Center had said “Monday, everything is closed”). Backtracking to the old city walls, I used all of the Uruguayan pesos I had (and some Argentinian) to treat myself at a Heladera that claimed to be the best in Colonia (1745). As with most ice cream, I really can’t argue… While I was sitting outside the Heladera, the sun came out and warmed up the town considerably. I watched whole families (of four!) riding around on the cobbled streets in their Vespas and golf carts. It was getting late by the time I finished eating and then the “fun” began again. With a bit of apprehension (that I might not have correctly understood all the procedures for returning to Buenos Aires), I returned to the ferry terminal at 1830. I’d noticed before that there were several companies with ferries coming/going and I wasn’t completely sure which people to emulate! As soon as I saw movement towards the security line, I checked in for my return ride on the Buquebus and proceeded through the immigration checkpoint. Unlike the departure process, there was only one group of officials - my heart sank to realize that I’d probably have a delay for customs when I reached Buenos Aires… In the waiting area, I sat quietly for around an hour until everyone seemed to spring out of their seats and queue up for departure. An older lady nearby was talking in English to some people and I heard her say “that is for the Colonia Express, 2015 Departure, and the Buquebus is behind that - you can relax!” I took her counsel to heart and felt like I was in good hands for making it back to my hotel. Actually, I ended up talking to the lady myself when (after I tried to speak Spanish to her) she determined I was from the US. Like everyone else I’ve met on this trip, she (and others around me) were quite helpful and gave me lots of suggestions for places to see/go in Argentina and Uruguay. I also talked to another English-speaking couple nearby - one of them was on a 10 Week (!!!) vacation. At 2030, my actual departure time, I got into a queue and started towards the loading ramp. Fortunately (yet again), one of the agents verified that I was on Buquebus just before I boarded the wrong ferry. He pointed to another line (not quite as long, luckily) and I sheepishly went to stand in it. At 2045, boarding began for Buquebus (“Atlantic III” again) and I made my way down the gangway to the correct boat. We departed just before 2100 and I relaxed/read as we re-crossed the River. As before, I really didn’t have any chance to take photos out the window (it was dark anyway). However, it was possible to see the bright skyline of Buenos Aires as we approached the city. The ride seemed to go more quickly and we were tied at the pier by around 2150. Only 10 minutes later, I was walking west on Cordoba - the immigration line went quite quickly (thanks to my Spanish!). I reached my hotel quickly (2215) and set up a shuttle to the airport for the following day. Spent another 30 minutes packing and then went to bed (2245). Over 10 miles of walking again - really glad I made the journey across the River Plate today!

South America Trip - Day 17

Full day in Buenos Aires! Afternoon rain was forecasted so I woke up at 0630 with plans to explore as much as possible before it arrived. Prior to today, I’d thought about riding the train to Tigre but then decided I didn’t have enough time to do that, take a ferry on the Rio de La Plata and still see all the major city landmarks listed in my guide book. I got some breakfast (cereal, eggs, pastries and some beet juice) at the hotel (0800) and then went to the lobby to get a few more ideas about areas to see and avoid. By 0830, I departed on my walk - I first headed north (after walking east on Paraguay to the first corner) towards Plaza San Martin (in the Retiro neighborhood). The weather was warm (60s) and a little breezy. I enjoyed having the streets mostly to myself early on a Sunday morning (my friends who are staying across town said that the partying near them didn’t end until 0600!). After getting photos of the liberating hero of Argentina, General San Martin, and some interesting architecture nearby, I started walking west on Avenida Santa Fe. Each block was full of color angst interesting businesses. I was able to keep going, despite crossing many major roads (Avenida 9 de Julio has about 16 lanes!) because the walk signs were mostly in my favor. For most of this excursion, I only referenced my paper map and the compass on my phone. With these tools, I easily reached Plaza Vicente Lopez y Planes, on the edge of the Barrio Norte neighborhood. There was an amazingly large tree in that park and, around it, a maze of roads that “spoked” outwards in every direction. So I checked my phone for navigation towards the Recoleta Cemetery. I eventually decided to use Avenida Gen. Las Hures and it took me most of the way there; at Junin, I saw the first signs of a high wall and walked in that direction. Arriving at 0915, I figured out how to buy a ticket (0915) and entered the expansive cemetery. Like I’d seen when I toured a similar place in Punta Arenas (on this trip), the families of Buenos Aires care so much about their deceased loved ones that they have gone “all out” in building monuments to them. Every mausoleum was stunning! Of course, the biggest and best had been made for the city’s (and country’s) elite: politicians, military leaders, doctors, lawyers, etc. I really didn’t know who many of these people were but walked on nearly every pathway (for almost an hour). Towards the end, I managed to locate the burial vault of “Evita” (Eva Duarte Peron); it was strewn with flowers and I had to wait behind a huge team of Futbol players to reach it. Satisfied I’d found the highlight of the cemetery, I departed to the north. On the way, I passed the Basilica Nuestra Senora de Pilar and noticed they had just started Mass. Since this seemed like a fortunate bit of timing, I joined in (and mostly followed through the Liturgy). At 1045, I left the church and continued north again, strolling through a sea of vendors who were setting up their little shops (the market looked like it would be HUGE). I soon found myself in Feria Artesanal Intendente Alvear, which (after walking a bit farther) helped me reach the Plaza Francia. On the way to Avenida Pres. Figueroa Alcorta, I passed the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and, a bit later, the Plaza Libres del Sud (it had a giant statue of a flower that was called “Floralis Generica”). I then walked to the northwest and passed through pretty groves of Jacaranda trees (with their pretty purple blossoms). Before long, I reached the MALBA (famous museum) and decided that I needed to turn west towards the Palermo neighborhood. At about that time, I noticed a huge line forming at the entrance to Jardín Japonés. This place was listed as a “Top 10” attraction in my guidebook so I paid the small fee to explore it (1115). For about an hour, I explored several pretty gardens and gardens - the place brought back happy memories of my visits to Japan… After leaving, I decided to try to find Plaza Italia (and look for lunch) and walked west on several side streets until I found Avenida Gen. Las Hures again. By now, my legs were getting tired and I hoped to rest. Unfortunately, the only thing I found at Plaza Italia was an area with huge green parks (i.e., no restaurants). I was going to turn around but I noticed that everyone was going inside one of the parks without paying. Following them, I found myself in the city’s old Zoo - it was recently converted into an “Eco Park”. I spent a little time exploring the place, noting several instances of statues and enclosures that belied the park’s former life. However, there were very few animal residents left - I did see peacocks, several kinds of birds, little monkeys and a few Patagonian Maras (cat-sized rodents). Since the vendors in the park only took cash (and I was short), I sat for a short time and ate an apple I’d brought. By now, the temps were in the high 70s but the rain had not appeared. Earlier, I’d thought about taking the Subway back towards my hotel (I was almost four miles away) but now it seemed possible to walk. Leaving the park, I spent the next hour crisscrossing the northern parts of Palermo and Barrio Norte (between Avenida del Liberator and Avenida Gen. Las Hures). I visited several small parks, enjoyed a mix of architectural styles and meandered towards the hotel. I passed a Heladera called “Chungo” that had a Visa (credit card) sign in the window - buying two scoops of gelato there (chocolate and lemon) really made my day (1315)! Since I’d missed seeing the Teatro Colon the previous day, I started a meandering path towards the southeast from Chungo. This walk took me through a large tourist shopping district (mostly stores and restaurants from the USA) and into Plaza Lavalle. The Teatro Colon was a massive architectural masterpiece and I hoped to be able to tour the interior. However, I learned that there were no more tours in English for the day and there was very little lighting anyway (they were doing maintenance). A bit disappointed, I reluctantly crossed Avenida 9 de Julio and made my way back to my hotel. In the lobby, I talked briefly with the clerk (Gonzalo) about a place where I could get dinner if it started raining. He recommended a place nearby and I then (1445) went to my room to rest. My pedometer said that I’d covered over 10 miles! It occurred to me that I’d felt quite safe throughout the day - the large number of police officers I’d seen probably made a difference. For the next few hours, I stayed off my feet and entertained myself with blogging and reading. At 1830, I left the hotel and walked about a block (through light sprinkles) to the restaurant recommended by Gonzalo: Parilla Cero5 (highly rated Asado). It was a small place and, even at the early hour, was quite busy. There was actually only one table available (for four) but I managed to snag it before anyone else saw it. It took a little while but my server (who looked swamped) eventually came unto take my order. Actually, he first apologized for the delay and I told him I was in no rush. This seemed to make him (he told me his name was Juan) happy and we shared a few laughs during the rest of the evening. Since I hadn’t really eaten a lot since breakfast, I ordered the Matrimonio (a cirrizzo and a black sausage) and mashed potatoes. To wash it down, I ordered a “grande” Quilmes Clasica (Argentinian beer). When Juan returned with the bottle, I was startled to see that it was a full Liter! Undeterred, I kept it at the table and spent over an hour trying to finish it (I couldn’t). The ambiance was nice, the food was good and Juan was an excellent (and VERY popular/busy) server. He explained some of the tipping rules (it can’t be added to a credit card charge and subsequently is considered, even by the waiters, as being optional) and shared some colloquial phrases used in Buenos Aires. I was finished at about 2000, paid (2000) and walked back (through steady drizzle) to the Wyndham. Spent the rest of the evening reading and prepping for a new adventure tomorrow. I’m still tired from all the walking I did but my Active Adventures friends (Tony and Shelly) asked me to join them on an excursion to Uruguay!

South America Trip - Day 16

Last day with the Active Adventures Group... I was awake by 0530 and did some more packing.  At 0715, went down to eat breakfast (cereal, eggs, meat, cheese, bread) with everyone else.  People started to leave (Alvaro first, then Kirk & Janice) soon after that.  Shaowen told me he couldn't pay for the coke he’d bought me the night before because the credit card machine was broken so I settled up with Rafael using the last of my Argentinian Pesos (0730).  Back in the dining area, I chatted with Tony & Shelly about life in the Plains States and family histories.  While we were still sitting there, Rafael helped people in two different groups celebrate their birthdays (music, cake with candles).  At around 0800, I went back to my room to rest until check out (1000).  When it was finally time to leave the Patagonia Queen Hotel, I returned to the lobby and hung out with Joanne and the eight people who had the same flight as me.  By 1030, Mariano had returned to the hotel and helped us load our stuff in his van.  We then drove to the El Calafate Airport.  The weather great again (50s) - we sure have been spoiled in Patagonia!  At the terminal, I was unloading my bag from the van when I realized that my suitcase wheels and zippers might be starting to fail - uh oh...  Inside, there was only one line - it was big but moving well - and it wasn’t difficult to figure out where to go.  When it was my turn to check in for my Aerolineas Argentinas flight (1100), things went much better than I’d expected.  Bottom line: I must have packed well because I was able to check both bags (one about 16 kg and the other 4 kg) and didn’t have to pay any extra fees.  Meanwhile, the big family group from New Mexico was forced to get into another line to pay (heavily) for their overweight luggage.  Meanwhile, I made my way (very quickly) through the security checkpoint and stopped at a small store to get some drinking water (1110).  A bit later, I found a charging station for my phone and got it back close to 100%.  This was important because the battery, which was showing signs of age before I left, has been draining even more quickly during the last few days.  I'd been a bit worried about connecting to the outlets in Argentina (220 VAC) but Tony had told me that my iPhone would be alright (he was correct).  By 1200, boarding commenced for our flight (B737-800 aircraft).  The queue was organized in four zones and my seat was in the last one.  In the end, the line moved slowly but pretty efficiently...  Along the way, I enjoyed watching a little girl with her grandpa getting royal treatment from the flight crew (I think it was her first flight).  Aboard the plane, I found myself three seats deep in a window seat - there was very little leg room.  We took off on time (1235) and departed El Calafate towards the north, across the Lago Argentino.  This provided us with spectacular views of all the peaks nearby (even as far away as Fitz Roy) before the cloud cover hid everything.  Throughout the flight, the crew made several multilingual announcements and this was helpful.  Lunch was snacks (nuts and yogurt bar).  Meanwhile, I spent most of the flight fidgeting in my seat, reading my Buenos Aires guide book and listening to part of an audiobook.  In the middle of the flight, we all joined in on a birthday celebration for someone who was turning 49 (that seemed to be a big milestone in Argentina).  At 1515, we began our approach to Buenos Aires (landing towards the southeast at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) and were treated to a wonderful view of the Rio de la Plata Delta and northwest suburbs of the city.  By 1545, we were at the gate.  Outside, it was clearly more warm and humid than I’ve seen for weeks and I was glad I’d worn a short sleeved shirt.  It took a while to reach the baggage claim area and then the process took longer than I’d hoped (start/stop).  After I got my stuff, I said goodbye to the other Active Adventures folks and started looking for a ride to my hotel. I’d initially tried to coordinate with my hotel (Ramada by Wyndham near Plaza San Martin) about a shuttle but learned it would cost over $30.  Instead, I decided to use the taxi fare calculator - there was a special QR code on the wall near the taxi stand that allowed visitors to pre-coordinate a fare with the drivers.  This produced a much more reasonable $15-$20 cost (complete with receipt).  At 1630, I made my way into the queue and ended up having to help some other English speakers to complete the process (I guess things aren't easy for the the internet challenged or iPhone illiterate).  Soon, I was in my taxi.  My driver was named Jorge and he didn’t speak a lot of English - I had to dig really deep to communicate with my limited Spanish.  Somehow, we had a great conversation about hiking, Patagonia, Iguazu, Buenos Aires and other Argentinian past times.  He got me to the hotel by 1655 and and I easily checked in (1700).  I was surprised to have a porter who wanted to assist me to my room (1715) - I took advantage of this perk and asked him to show me how to work the safe and find other items.  After quickly changing into "exploring" clothes, I went down to the lobby again and spoke with the clerk (Mateo) about safety of the neighborhood, breakfast, snacks & drinks in the room, Mass time for the church across the street and other sights.  He gave me a good map and lots of helpful advice.  After that, I proceeded west on Paraguay.  When I reached Avenida 9 de Julio, I walked south.  When I reached the Obelisk, I took lots of photos (and a video) of a joyous drum and dancing celebration.  While there, I was asked several questions by folks nearby and sheepishly had to admit that I didn’t speak Spanish very well. Nearby, I attempted to figure out how to use the Subway but, when I went down under the street, it was too difficult to understand without additional assistance.  Maybe tomorrow I can try again!  Back on street level, I took Avenida Pres. Roque Sáenz Peña and immediately found myself in the middle of an Empanada Festival.  Not feeling hungry yet, I didn’t buy any but stayed in the area so I could watch the cooks, vendors and crowds enjoying themselves.  I also texted Tony and Shelly about it (they were staying in another hotel nearby) and they later replied that they'd been there earlier in the afternoon.  At Plaza de Mayo, I got lots of photos (including one of General Belgrano and the Argentinian flag he’d created) and marveled at the architecture.  A highlight was examining the Pink House.  There were signs in several places with maps of the entire country that gave unmistakable signs that Portenos consider the Malvinas/Falklands to be part of Argentina.  I definitely did NOT ask questions or make comments about this...  Making my way further east, I reached the canal in Puerto Madero.  Exploring nearby, I found a restaurant (Happening) that appeared to be open for dinner - that was nice, because it was only 1830 and I'd expected to have to wait.  On the patio in the back of the restaurant, I sat down to eat and enjoyed a bottle of Malbec (2020 Zorzal Terroir Unico), various breads, Empanada Caseras Fritas and Rigatoni ‘Nduja.  While I was eating, the sun went down and I enjoyed the transition to cooler temps.  From my table, I was able to see lots of people on the boardwalk and, nearby, a tall, black and white bird (black crowned night heron?) fishing near the docks.  Mollie called and we talked for a while (it's nice to have such reliable AT&T International service!).  When I was finished (2005), I was disappointed that I couldn’t leave a tip on my credit card.  Since I didn't have any Argentinian pesos, I was a bit embarrassed.  However, it couldn't be helped...  Afterwards, I walked north and a bit west until I found the ferry landing for the Buquebus - I'm still hoping to use this boat to reach Uruguay.  Along the way, I overshot Paraguay and had to make my way (via zig-zag) back to my hotel.  This turned out to be a fortunate accident, however, because I encountered a kind of “Salsa Rave” as I was walking.  I stopped a while to watch the dancing and take in the sounds.  After one of the bands finished their set, I wandered further west and found lots of nice places to eat, drink and shop.  These places were quite near my hotel, which gave me the impression that I'd made a good choice.  In the lobby of the Ramada again (2045), I found a HUGE group of people checking into their rooms.  The clerk (Mateo) recognized me and asked about my excursion (I thanked him for the great advice).  Later, I had a problem with my key and had to make another trip to the lobby via the slow, tiny elevator - the stairs were closed except for emergencies.  Being on the 5th floor isn’t easy...  Back in my room, I relaxed and listened to my audio book until it was time for bed (2200).  With the hiking / biking / kayaking part of my trip complete, I'm going to have to find new ways to make sure I get exercise.  Fortunately, there is always walking...  More exploring tomorrow!

South America Trip - Day 15

Los Glaciares National Park Day 5!  Sadly, today’s hike to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado marked the last planned activity in our group itinerary.  It’s hard to believe that I’ve been in South America for almost two full weeks and that this phase of my adventure will end in less than 24 hours.  Focusing on the positive, I woke up ready to hike (0530), got my bags packed and went to the lobby for breakfast at 0630.  I was the only one there.  The hotel normally doesn’t open the buffet until 0700 but the clerk said I could start.  As usual, I had cereal, eggs, fruit and a ham/cheese sandwich.  Alvaro arrived soon afterwards and we chatted about the overall group mood.  Most everyone had expressed feelings of exhaustion but a few hardy souls wanted to get one more day on the trail. Those folks, along with a small group of moral supporters, arrived shortly afterwards.  I checked out of my room and received a note from the night clerk, Dondro, that contained helpful ideas about things to do in Buenos Aires.  By 0730, I met Luis, Alvaro, Julie and five other members of the group (Janice, Kirk, Tony, Kathy and Patty) so we could begin our hike.  First, we had to walk through the entire town of El Chalten, across the Rio Fitz Roy and another few hundred meters to reach the trailhead.  Along the way, we saw flamingos flying overhead - it seemed like a good sign.  We’d previously been told that the hike could be as long as 20 km but the odometer hadn’t even started!  Luis and Alvaro then explained that Active Adventures groups typically only climbed to a plateau about 2 km below the highest point and this made completing our hike seem more possible.  Actually, I would normally want to hike as much as possible but our bus back to El Calafate was scheduled to depart at 1400 - this made the pace an distance much more important than normal.  The temps were pleasant (50s), the sun was out and Cerro Solo, Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy were mostly visible.  As has happened many times on this trip, Alvaro shook his head about how nice our weather and views have been - apparently, such a stretch of “luck” is unheard of in Patagonia.  Regardless, I’ll take it!  Right at the entrance to the trail, we encountered an entire tree full of Astral Parakeets, chirping away.  Luis said that they like to eat dandelions on the ground and were waiting for us to pass.  We started a gradual climb after this and passed through low shrubbery for about a mile - Alvaro pointed out a particularly prickly plant he called the “Mother-in-Law Pillow" and we had a good laugh.  Nearby, Luis showed us some small, flowering plants called ladyslipper and anemone.  There were also Calafate bushes (minus the berries) everywhere on the hill.  Behind us, the full panorama of El Chalten and the Valle del Rio de Las Vueltas spread majestically below.  We next reached a grove of Lenga trees (very pretty) and learned more about the red-headed Patagonian Woodpecker.  They are quite territorial and will fight each other for control over an area of trees - today, one kept making a single knocking sound that indicated his displeasure about our presence.  Climbing higher, we saw huge balancing rocks, distant snowy peaks in nearly every direction and different angles of the nearer peaks.  Unfortunately, the clouds soon began to obscure our views of Fitz Roy and Torre.  The effect was interesting to watch but quickly diminished the entire purpose of our hike!  So, when we reached our first “official” mirador, we lost two members of our die hard group.  I wanted to keep going (and convinced a few others to follow) and was glad that Luis and Julie obliged.  In the front of the group, I walked close to Luis and learned about how the locals (with some help from the National Park rangers) manage forest fires and mountain rescues.  Luis happily described how, as a certified guide, he has authority to enforce park regulations.  In addition, he is very involved in the volunteer mountain rescue service in El Chalten - apparently, a major “skills” event was going to take place in town over the next few days and he was looking forward to attending.  Finally, we learned that many people - some he had guided but many more that he had never met - contact him for advice about the Patagonian backcountry.  In the typical fashion of the wonderful people who live in this region (“Hermanos en el Fin del Mundo”), he assists them all.  At about this time, we passed a sign that talked about being aware of “Vacas Salvajes”, which Luis explained were the local version of feral cows (grazing on the National Park since the land was privately owned).  Julie’s boyfriend (Pablo, a triathlete) came running by during this time and we marveled at his stamina and dedication.  Continuing on our hike, we traveled through an extremely deep forest that covered the lower side of Loma del Pliegue Tumbado.  When we reached the tree line, it became clear that we were definitely not going to see any more good views.  While we stood in a big clearing there, Luis pointed out many of the landmarks we’d seen during our visit to El Chalten and Los Glaciares National Park (Secciones Lago Viedma).  Since it was cooler (there was snow up there!) and rain appeared to be threatening, we began our descent.  As usual, our pace on the downhill was much faster - Luis, Janice, Kirk and I soon left the other three behind.  I’d asked Luis previously about how he got connected as a local guide with Active Adventures and he’d told me several details.  What he’d left out, however, was that he had designed the first Active itinerary and taken the company founder on the first trip.  He’d since taken many groups similar to ours into the wilds of Los Glaciares.  We all agreed that we owed our good times to him! After this, the rest of us continued talking about memories from our trip, Luis’ plans for the rest of the guiding season, movies and (mostly Janice and Kirk) plans after returning home.  On this last topic, I really had no interest in imagining being back in the USA.  However, my Canadian friends have truly made Halifax and the Nova Scotia northern shore sound very inviting and fun so I tried to live vicariously through their vivid happiness about work routines, date nights, outings with friends and holiday events.  Back in the field with the sign warning us about feral cows, we sat down to lunch (ham and cheese hoagie, lemon cake, “scooter pie” and trail mix).  The sun was still shining but clouds were closing in from all directions.  Suddenly, a group of hikers with huge backpacks and snowshoes came out of the woods nearby - the guide knew Luis and they talked excitedly for a little while.  To us, the other group’s guide sang Luis’ praises, calling him the “Emperor of Chalten”.  This isn’t the first time he’s gotten good reviews when we’ve encountered guides so I’m sure we definitely had “the best” during our visit.  Soon after that, we put our backpacks on again and continued down the mountain.  In a slippery place, I almost fell face-first in the mud (VERY close call) but I otherwise enjoyed the walk.  I’d gotten a few comments during the last two hikes that my boots looked like something was wrong with them - it appears I may have blown out the bottom left side of my right boot.  Fortunately, this was the last time I will definitely need them… Actually, though, these Ozark Trail Hikers hold up to a lot of wear and tear and logged more than 100 miles on this trip!  During the rest of the hike, we watched condors and kestrels soaring overhead, European Hares scampering, glacial rivers cascading and pretty mountain flowers swaying in the breeze.  We stopped at the National Park Visitors Center when we reached the bottom of the trail.  They had some information about the park there but the building seemed to be mostly just a place for mountaineers to register their climbs and for other visitors (on big tour buses) to learn about a short (10 minute) walk they could take to reach an overlook view of the town. Why anyone would come all this way to just do that one “nature walk” and leave immediately is beyond me…. Walking back to our hotel through town, I took some photos of signs and a giant wood carving of a backpack.  At one point, I took a left turn when I should have gone right and Julie (who had caught up to me and was telling me more about Buenos Aires) tried to steer me in the correct way.  However, she then checked herself and said it was ok for us to continue.  At first, I thought it was because all roads eventually must lead to El Barranco but she then started quizzing me about whether I had been in the area before.  All of this mysterious behavior became clear when we came to a corner and she said, quite matter of factly, “this is my coffee shop” (!).  None of us had realized that her guide duties were only part time and initially thought she meant it was her favorite.  However, we eventually came to understand that she was saying she OWNED it!  It was a cute little place and I felt bad we hadn’t known enough to visit it during our four days in town.  Next time!  By 1335, we reached the hotel (after completing about 10 miles of hiking) and that the van (for our trip back to El Calefate) had arrived and was already loading up baggage.  I sat down in the lobby to change shoes and my shirt and quickly got the feeling (mostly from the non-hikers) that we needed to get on the bus NOW.  I barely managed to get my bag, provide a tip for our two guides (1350), use the rest room and grab some snacks before the van (the biggest and fanciest we’ve yet seen) began rolling out of town (1400).  Still riding a high from getting one more hike before the trip was over - what a nice way to end my visit to this amazing town and region!  Our driver (Mariano, who we’d met during the excursion to Perito Merino Glacier) quickly drove us south, along the edge of Lago Viedma, on Ruta 23.  It soon started to rain (but not heavily)… We switched to Ruta 40 and made a quick stop at Hotel La Leona (1515).  Back in the bus after less than 10 minutes, we continued to the southwest.  I’d hoped to listen to my audiobook during the ride but found that my digital library loan had expired (dang).  Fortunately, I’d previously retrieved my Buenos Aires visitor guide and used this opportunity to review it.  Meanwhile, everyone else slept… After reaching Ruta 11, we drove west into El Chalten (1700).  Rafael and his staff were waiting for us at the Patagonia Queen Hotel and, within minutes, we were in our rooms.  I spent the next few hours getting re-packed for the next transition of my trip - fortunately, it was easy to separate hiking/not-hiking gear in my bags.  At 1910, our group met in the lobby to thank Alvaro for his fine attention in organizing our wonderful trip.  He made some remarks about how he was glad about the good group synergy we had and Rafael made videos.  I learned later that this was the first time the Active Adventures group had been able to do all the “normal” things (read: amenities) that Rafael likes to provide since the start of the COVID-19 restrictions.  We next adjourned to a small room in the back of the hotel that included a large oven - Mariano (apparently the local Jack of All Trades) was hard at work in there, cooking as much meat as I’ve ever seen on a grill.  This was the first time we’d been treated to a meal that was only for us and the resulting ambiance was quite nice.  Of course, the Asado was even better!  We had salad, potatoes, bread, homemade empanadas (ground beef with olives), sausages, “Meatza” (meat with cheese on top, sliced thinly) and several other delicious (and well seasoned and grilled) cuts of beef.  Our Canadian friends ordered some more Malbec and I tried some more - it’s growing on me… There were speeches and toasts and sharing of addresses - the kinds of farewell activities warmly shared between life long friends.  The feast was topped off by four flavors of gelato/ice-cream.  It was great to watch Mariano, Alvaro and Rafael (and the latter’s son, Tomas) working together to share a big slice of Patagonian hospitality with our group!  By 2045, most everyone started heading to their rooms (hugs all around) but I stayed at the bar for another 45 minutes with Kirk & Janice, Tony & Shelly and Shaowen.  For much of this time, we spoke about travel and family.  By 2130, I was in my room again, prepping for my flight to Buenos Aires tomorrow.  Alvaro stopped by to chat at around 2300 and we drank a beer (Patagonian Amber Lager) in the second floor recreation room while discussing good activities for my later visit to Rio.  I’m genuinely going to miss seeing Alvaro each day and I hope I’ll someday be able to visit and/or take another tour with him again.  I retired to my room just before midnight and went to bed at 0020.  What a day, what a trip, what an adventure!

South America Trip - Day 14

Los Glaciares National Park Day 4!  Somehow, I’m still not sick yet.  Most of the rest of the group except for me, Janice and Kathy have come down with the nagging cough - two of the older guys have missed several days of events.  Earlier, I thought this cold may have traveled with us from the USA but now it appears to be widespread in El Chalten (other hikers have it).  Riding in the van and sitting near people in restaurants has made me feel sure I’m next but, perhaps, the exercise I’m getting every day in the mountain air is counteracting the other factors.  My day started a bit later (woke at 0630) and I met everyone for breakfast (cereal, fruit, eggs, meat/cheese sandwich) in the El Barranco lobby at about 0715.  By 0800, we (12 members of the group) loaded up in the van for our day’s adventure on the north end of the National Park.  Actually, we crossed the official park boundary (on to private land) again, drove north of El Chalten for about 40 km and arrived at the southern end of Lago del Desierto at around 0920.  One thing that was completely different about today was the fact that our driver (Augustin) had brought a huge trailer full of mountain bikes!  After parking at the Base Camp for hikes to Glaciar Huemul, we first took a short walk to an overlook over the lake.  At that point, we were only about five miles from the Chile-Argentine border but the crossing was only accessible by boat (and then by foot) in the summertime.  Luis told us that a location nearby was the scene of a small but violent skirmish between border patrol teams on November 6, 1965.  The situation eventually led to rapport and resolution, fortunately, but is still remembered as an unnecessary tragedy.  Back at the van, Augustin and Julie helped fit us with all the gear we needed for our 20 km bike ride.  Our guides provided brand new (18 speed) mountain bikes (complete with a modern shock absorber system), helmets, biking gloves, water bottle and reflective belts.  After a safety brief from Luis, we were ready to go!  At first, I had some trouble with the bike I’d been given - the seat was too low (I fixed that) and the brakes made loud squealing sounds when applied.  For the latter problem, I ended up having to wait for our “Sag Wagon” (Augustin) to help - he ended up giving me a different bike that worked just fine afterwards.  Armed with new equipment, I made my way towards the front of the group (Ed led the way and Janice/Kirk, Shelly/Tony followed close behind).  Unlike most of my previous mountain bike rides (on nice crushed stones or pavement) the riding surface was made out of huge stones that probably came out of the river.  Rolling over them was rather unpredictable and I had to concentrate A LOT (result = few photos).  But I eventually got the hang of things. We made stops at several waterfalls (one had some pretty red flowers called “tears of the stream”) and at a memorial for the 1965 conflict.  After that, though, Luis gave us free reign in a few places and those of us who bike more often had a great time racing on the gravel roads.  We did have to watch out for oncoming cars but we successfully avoided problems.  Our weather was great (50s and clear), scenery was awesome (high peaks on either side of the valley) and the bikes worked well (by the end, I was digging the shocks!).  After passing Laguna Condor, we began to watch for signs of the Huemules Reserve, a private resort (and residential) area near the road crossing of the Rio Electrico.  When the front-runners arrived (1245), Luis showed us where to put our bikes and where our group picnic would be.  After everyone else (including our van) arrived, Augustin and Julie set up a huge lunch spread.  While they were busy, we walked to the Huemules main building so we could take a tour of their museum.  Inside, we found a very nice series of displays that covered the natural sciences (and some local history) of the Reserve.  By 1315, it was time to eat and we got to enjoy a typical Argentinian picnic: fruits, empanadas (meat and veggie), assorted meats and cheeses, chocolate and potato chips.  Topping off the meal was a big can of Imperial Lager (Cerveza Extra), an Argentinian beer.  At about 1430, Luis and Alvaro suggested that we begin our second planned event in the area: a hike to the Laguna Azul and Laguna Verde.  We just had to walk west on a gravel road until we reached the trailhead and from there we had about 40 minutes of climbing.  It started to sprinkle a little bit but I stayed mostly dry under the good tree cover of the forest.  At the top of the climb (a long ridge), we could see a lake with a deep blue color that sat at the foot of snow covered mountains.  On the other side (towards the east), we saw a dark green (almost emerald) pond with lots of reeds in it.  Luis told us the different colors were the result of lake depth and sediment density.  We soon headed downhill and circled back towards the van by a different route.  During our circuit, we saw lots of flowers (including our third kind of orchid), several kinds of birds (many ducks) and more of the large European Hares that seem so ubiquitous.  We also crossed a few torrents (almost waterfalls) on rickety, one-person-at-a-time, suspension bridges - yikes!  I quizzed Luis about some of the animals and he told me about two invasive species (the beaver and a mink-like mammal, both from North America) that were wreaking havoc in Patagonia.  Later, I practiced more Spanish with Julie and got tips about travel in Buenos Aires from both her and Alvaro.  At the bottom of the hill, we reunited with our driver and a few folks that hadn’t taken the hike.  We then started the 40 km drive back to El Chalten (on the way, I had another beer).  JoAnne was sitting near me and she told me all about her home in Western New York, Shelly & Tony made more specific plans with me regarding our trip to Uruguay and Kathy shared some of her Australian licorice.  By 1645, we were at the hotel - Alvaro was having trouble with the restaurant reservations but told us to meet him in the lobby again at 1855.  I cleaned up and checked on some of my travel plans.  When our group reconvened, we just had to walk a short distance to the restaurant, La Ceverceria Chalten.  Alvaro had been talking about it since we arrived and I soon understood why: in addition to serving delicious Italian food (most of the workers, and much of Argentina for that matter, are of Italian descent), the restaurant made their own beers (in the Czech style).  For dinner, I ordered one of their Bocks, some fried cheese to share with Kirk & Janice, a ravioli made with spinach (inside and outside) and an apple crumble.  Our server proudly added a “shot-glass” of delicious soup as an apéritif and kept the beer and wine flowing.  Shaowen seemed relieved that we’d finished most of the planned active adventures and happily talked about how much he was looking forward to returning home.  Meanwhile, I became aware of a push by others to just depart El Chalten in the morning and arrive in El Calafate early.  I’d been hoping to do the last hike (Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado) in the morning before we left town but the group inertia was clearly shifting against this.  Fortunately, Alvaro squelched this mini-rebellion and those who didn’t want to hike were told to wait for us to return.  The weather isn’t supposed to be very good (for the first time in the entire trip) so we shall see which people were the smart ones… We paid for our drinks (2100) and we walked back to the hotel.  The temps had dropped noticeably (40s, with wind) so I was glad to have my fleece pullover.  In the lobby, I practiced my Spanish with a different clerk (who was from Buenos Aires) and paid for my laundry (2115).  In my room, I read a little bit before going to bed at the earliest time in over two weeks (2215).  Only one more day of trekking in Patagonia - I’ll be really sad to depart…

South America Trip - Day 13

Los Glaciares National Park Day 3!  Each morning on this trip, I’ve awakened with the belief that I’ve already seen all the best highlights of Patagonia and the rest of the trip is just “gravy.”  And, every evening when I go to bed I realize that I was wrong.  The Active Adventures staff, both in New Zealand and in Chile, have created such an outstanding itinerary that every day holds an even bigger surprise!  I was awakened by the gentle glow of the Dawn (0530) and got ready for one of our longest hikes of the trip: 20 km (~13 miles).  I went to the lobby for breakfast (cereal, bread, meats, cheeses and fruits) at 0645 and then met the nine other members of our group who’d chosen to do the hike (along with our guides: Alvaro, Luis and Julie) at 0730.  Our van driver took us north from El Chalten, following Rio de Las Vueltas (along a gravel road), for about 20 km until we reached a parking area at the crossing of the Rio Blanco.  Only a little way into this trip, we left the National Park and found ourselves on private land.  Fortunately, the public has still been able to access the trails in this area without difficulty.  Our hike began at around 0815 and we hiked southwest across a long valley below the peaks of the Andes.  At first, the wind (coming from the west, off the ice field on the Chile-Argentina border less than 10 miles away) was rather strong - this, coupled with the cooler temps (40s) made me layer up (short sleeved shirt and light jacket).  Our trail paralleled the river and we got several amazing views of Fitz Roy as the sun rose higher in the sky.  Luis told us about the names of several peaks, and included a description of how the native peoples had called all mountains that had clouds wreathed around them (like Fitz Roy on most days) “Chalten” - this meant Smoky Mountain.  We saw, first hand, this effect.  For parts of the hike, I walked in the back of the pack with Alvaro and Julie.  The former told me about his love for the Lenga tree (it has a lifelong symbiotic relationship with a kind of termite that eventually hollows it out until the tree falls) and pointed out examples of the Magellan Woodpecker.  The latter asked to practice her English with me and I found myself speaking Spanish in return (I believe this really entertained Luis and Alvaro).  Along the way, we reentered the National Park and joined the El Pilar Trail.  We filled up several times on water from the river and stopped for a snack at the amazing view of the Piedras Blancas Glacier.  The trail was rather easy, with only a few steep spots, until we reached the Poincinot Camping area.  We were given a chance to “bail out” from the optional climb to Laguna de Los Tres at this point but only one person decided to head back to El Chalten with Alvaro.  The rest of us used the facilities (we saw many privies in the park but they only had a hole in the floor…).  From the campsite, we started a 2 km climb to one of the closest viewpoint for Fitz Roy and the glaciers on/near it.  At one point, Luis said we could continue without him (“I’ll catch up”) and we took this to mean we could go at our own pace.  As a result, I put on the “afterburners” and powered my way (without stopping) to the top.  By leaving my English speaking group behind, I found myself in a different world of communication - but I liked being able to lightly converse with the many Spanish speaking hikers I passed on the way.  I was at the high point (after navigating a false summit) just after 1200 and was blown away by the view.  WOW!!!! I’d thought Torres del Paine was unique in its features but the Fitz Roy peak, glacier and lake were just as impressive.  A bit later, the rest of the group started to arrive - eventually, everyone made it!  Meanwhile, I ate lunch (chicken sandwich with dried tomatoes and peppers, pumpkin empanada, nuts, chocolate and a membrillo pastry) and watched the clouds rolling up (east) from behind Fitz Roy.  Turning around completely, I could see the entire route of our hike through the Rio Blanco Valley, back to El Chalten.  Again, Wow!  By 1300, Luis told us we were allowed to backtrack down hill and a few of us made good time to the rallying point at Camp Rio Blanco.  It took a while for everyone else to get there but we eventually started hiking (together) towards town (southeast).  I’ve noticed that the W Trek group has usually been in the front of the hikes while the other seven trail well behind - today was no exception.  Along the way, several of us started singing “99 Bottles of Beer” (our minds were already on celebrating at the end) and got a smile from Luis (we also got applause from two hikers who passed us later and they asked where we’d be performing later in the evening).  Other highlights in this part of the journey included spectacular views of the Andes, a pretty walk along Laguna Capri, seeing Palomito (white orchid), observing several wild hares and pretty thrushes, and hearing Luis’ stories about local mountaineering adventures (his own and those of the climbers for whom many of the landmarks are named).  As we reached the “pushover” for the descent into town, Luis again gave us the green light to go as fast as we wanted.  Like an arrow from a bow, I picked up speed until I reached the pace I wanted - only Kirk and Janice stayed with me after that. Our downhill into the valley was actually kind of relaxing because the trail was wide and smooth.  Just after 1800, we rolled into town - 10 minutes later, we were in the hotel lobby.  What a hike!  Alvaro told us we had just over an hour before we had to leave for dinner so Kirk bought a round of beers (Andes Origen Roja) that we could enjoy until the rest of the group arrived.  Everyone was back by 1845 and we then scattered to our rooms to shower and change.  My clean laundry (washed and folded by the hotel) was in the room - very nice!  At 1915, our group walked down the Main Street to reach our restaurant, La Vineria Grill.  Alvaro had ordered ahead, so our pre-arranged dinner (empanada, salad, veggie lasagna and mousse) and drinks (another Roja and a glass of Malbec) came quickly to the table.  Everyone was in good spirits after our big hike and the conversation flowed freely.  We were finished at 2130 and walked back to El Barranco to get ready for bed.  I caught up on blogs and set up for the next day before heading to bed (2300).  Unbelievable day of exercise, achievement and views - this trip continues to impress!