Viking "Neptune" - Day 9! In anticipation of one of the biggest days of this cruise for me (a return, for the first time in 40 years, to Berlin), I was wide awake at 0545. When I looked outside the window, I could see that we were already docked at Warnemunde. This was my first time on the Baltic Coast of Germany and the weather was beautiful. I didn't dilly dally like I often do (reading, puzzles, Duolingo) but started getting ready immediately. Unlike I normally do (use a light, canvas bag for my day back), I instead packed a hiking backpack (from Appalachian Trail days) and got ready for a full day away from the ship. At 0615, I went to breakfast at the World Cafe and met up with Maggie & Larry. We strategized on our plans to tour Berlin together before we headed down (along with almost all of the ship's passengers) to the Cruise Center of Warnemunde (0630). By 0645, I'd joined everyone else in a series of orderly queues - we were then guided across a large parking lot to a waiting charter train (just for Viking "Neptune"). We stayed in groups with a designated guide (Eva) and were assigned to the lower part of a double-decker train car. I found a good place to sit and settled in for the three hour ride from the Baltic Coast to Berlin. Essentially, we were on a tour (“Berlin Your Way”) for the whole time. The train departed at 0715 and, almost immediately, my neighbors (on the other side of my row) started talking to me. They were Rich & Barb, an older couple from San Jose, CA. I'd brought a book to read but never even cracked it open once. Instead, I enjoyed the "grandparent" interest in my life choices - Rich told me that I was “Royalty of no fixed abode”. Along the way, we were fed some snacks, including a “Berliner”, and provided with plentiful water. One downside was that I'd chosen a side of the train with lots of sun... At one point, our charter train stopped to wait for two trains to pass in the other direction. I did get some chances to take glances outside the window and watch the passing scenery of old East Germany - wow! I also saw some interesting cranes (or storks) as we passed through the city of Neustrelitz (0845). Eventually, I noticed that we were coming into Berlin from the eastern side of the city. We passed through the Ostbahn Bahnhof and then got some nice views of the Pergamon and other museums. We also saw Alexander Platz, with its famous TV Tower. Beyond that, we passed through Frederichstrasse Station and arrived at Berlin Hauptbahnhof (1005). It’s been nearly 40 years since I visited the (present day) German Capital during a summer Art & Architecture Exchange Program and it was wonderful to find that this resilient city has found its unified footing. The last time I saw it (1986), Berlin was a divided community, with freedom on one side of the wall and oppression on the other. What a difference 40 years makes! Getting off the train seemed like a mad rush after our peaceful ride across the country and it took almost 10 minutes to re-group, walk and board a new tour bus (#2) on the southern end of the Train Station. Outside, it was sunny and 75(ish) F. On the bus, we were greeted by a new guide named Joerg and he got us started on a tour of Old West Berlin. Almost immediately, we crossed the River Spree and entered the government district. Upon seeing the old Reichstag (now called the Bundestag), I was stunned to see the transformation - the last time I saw it there were literally piles of 1940s rubble all around and the roof had collapsed. We next went driving west on John Foster Dulles Allee through a large park (Tiergarten) lined with chestnut trees. We passed Congress Hall and the Victory Monument before turning around and heading back towards the Brandenburg Gate on Strasse des 17 Juni. The US Embassy and a (new, since 2005) Jewish Memorial were pointed out before we turned south. Before long, we passed through Potsdamerplatz. At 1030, we Stopped at old Nazi Government Center called Topographie Des Terrors. This location, which was mobbed by passengers from every other bus in our tour group, included a long section of the Berlin Wall and featured historical markers that depicted events that took place in the underground Nazi office remnants. We were told that we'd arrived there for a 10 minute bathroom break but it ended being almost 30 minutes. I passed the extra time by touching the Berlin Wall from both sides (impossible in my youth). After we'd reboarded the bus, we drove through Checkpoint Charlie and I got many of the skyline views that my cousin (Gerard) had mentioned (in an email he sent me yesterday) before we got dropped off at Gendarmenmarkt. This large plaza, with several impressive examples of architecture, was once located in the old East Berlin. We got off the bus at 1120 and were told that we had roughly five hours to explore on our own. It did take a bit of effort but I managed to meet up with Larry & Maggie (they'd been on a different bus). They had already deferred to me on the route of our "city tour" but then I asked if they would wait for me while I attended Mass at a nearby Catholic Church. Of course (because they are great people) they agreed. Since the service didn't begin until about 30 minutes later, we had some time to relax on some folding chairs we found in a little park nearby. While waiting, we ate food we'd brought from the ship and chatted about how amazing it was to be in the reunited city. (Note: I learned later that the square in front of the church was the site of Nazi Book Burnings.) At 1200, I started to head into St. Hedwig’s Cathedral, which was located in between Brandenburger Tor and Alexander Platz, but then was surprised when Larry & Maggie said they wanted to attend as well. The inside of the sanctuary was much different than I'd expected - the altar was int he middle of the church and all the seats surrounded it in a series of concentric circles. The only indication of what the prayers or songs were appeared at the top of the dome (light directed to indicate numbers). However, the "missal" was not easy to follow. As a result, the service ended up being hard to follow for them because it was all in German. Fortunately, the Order of the Mass was familiar to me and I was able to tell them what was happening (in a minor way). Larry used a translator app during the Homily and said he was very impressed with the personal and authoritative message provided by the Priest. (Note: I later learned that Gerard had also been to Mass at this church and liked it a lot.). When Mass ended (1300), we all headed across the square in front of the Cathedral and walked a large portion of the Unter Van Linden. The best part of this walk was that we were able to proceed entirely through the Brandenburg Gate. It was closed with barbed wire the last time I saw it and I felt feelings of happiness for the German people that they had the opportunity to travel, unimpeded, in their country once again. From there (1330), we got a closer look at the renovated Bundestag. We'd been told it was open for tours but didn’t try to enter because of the huge lines. Next, we strolled along the renovated shoreline of The Spree - it was very beautiful. Nearby, we got to walk through the moving Holocaust Memorial to all European Jews. This was built in the old "No Man’s Land" (where The Wall had stood) and had the effect of making you unable to see where you were going as you wandered through the maze-like structure. The feeling of being overwhelmed and hopeless, which the artist apparently wished to convey, was palpable. Continuing to Potsdamer Platz, I observed some markings on the ground for where The Wall had been and then began a futile search for the Fuhrerbunker - Larry assisted me in this but Maggie seemed to be getting tired of walking. After giving up on the search, we continued east and passed some of the few government buildings that survived World War II. The next highlight was walking through Checkpoint Charlie and checked out a small museum. At that point, I ran into Rocky (who I'd first met during my Viking “Venus” trip to Asia). We both admitted we'd seen each other before this day of the cruise but had been uncertain if our minds were playing tricks on us. By 1530, Maggie told us she'd had enough walking and asked to return to where the buses were going to meet us. We stopped for a local beer at Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt, which had been recommended by one of the guides. In the end, though, we bad luck with credit cards and long wait times - if it weren't for a helpful server and his manager, we might never have gotten anything to drink. Larry & Maggie told me they were worried about missing their bus so they quickly raced away. I continued drinking my beer until I was finished and, at 1550, started walking back to the Viking kiosk. About halfway across the square, I saw some people from Bus 2 who called to me, saying “this way!”. It turned out that everyone else had already assembled and were heading to the bus early. I would have missed my ride if I'd been about five minutes later... We departed at 1600 for Berlin HBH. Along the way, I got one more view of the Brandenberger Tor & TV Tower (“Revenge of the Pope”). Unexpectedly, we stopped to visit another Berlin Wall section on Bernauer Strasse. There were large sections and, where there were gaps, some tall metal poles that showed the route of the missing pieces. Like we'd seen several times earlier in the day, the ability to walk freely, back and forth on both sides of the wall, was a very moving experience. Rich and Barb asked to take a picture with me and I obliged. After about 10 minutes in the area, we continued driving to Berlin HBH (arrived there at 1620). We then had another long walk to the platform where our charter train was waiting. After boarding, though, we ended up waiting a long time before the train finally departed (1710). So much for "five hours of free time"... On the way back to Warnemunde, our train took a different route (scenery was different). Fortunately, we were treated to plentiful water, food (pretzel, peanuts) & Schloss Beer. This time, I was in a single seat near the back of the train car and was able to read the book I'd brought. I did watch the scenery from time to time but my brain was also filled with all the images from my "Deja Vu" day. At one point, we stopped at Oranenburg to pick up some Viking passengers who'd taken an excursion nearby. From there, the countryside was mostly flat. Meanwhile, the sun started falling quite low in the sky. At 1930, we arrived in Warnemunde and everyone made a mad dash for Viking "Neptune". By the time I arrived, the ship boarding line was already quite big. Not wanting to wait in that queue, I went walking down Promenade Passagierkai (pier) instead. I located a nice park, Ferris Wheel and some fun looking pubs. Almost everything was closed but I watched some ferry activities (it looked like people could cut across the harbor there). I did some birding and tried to kill about 15 minutes and minimize the pain of reboarding the ship. By the time I returned to the Cruise Center, the main line was mostly gone. In the area where everyone had been queued before, the ship's crew was lining the pier and dancing. I was the center of attention at that point (haha) and they gave me some kind of aperitif (I later heard it was a Peach Sour), which I promptly raised in their honor. There was another security queue inside the Cruise Center but I still managed to board the ship by 1950. At my cabin, I dropped off my bag and, since I was already dressed appropriately, went (2000) to “The Restaurant” for dinner. I sat in Kenneth’s section again and ordered the “Destination Menu” (Deftige Gulaschsuppe, Beef Sauerbraten, Schwartwalder). Kenneth kept the red wine flowing... A bit after I arrived, Chris (one of the older ladies from Cape Cod) was seated at the next table over and we had a nice conversation. Meanwhile, the ship departed Warnemunde (2030). Since I was enjoying my dinner, the wine and the conversation, I stayed until the restaurant closed (2115). Back in my cabin, I spent the rest of the evening reading and watching movies. Suddenly, Brenna started texting and I was able to keep up a "real time" conversation with her until 2330 (went to bed then). Today was a very memorable day - isn’t Freedom wonderful?
